From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1746
Date: Sunday, November 09, 2003 8:21 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Digest Number 1744
From: grex37_at_dml_aol.com

2. All Hose replacment
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Failed emissions!!! PASSED!
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. seeking high resolution image(s)
From: "twin_rotors" <twin_rotors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. idle behavior?
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

6. Re: wrecked VIN 10115 up for auction
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

7. Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Spark Plug Wires
From: "slowlydownward1313" <slowly_downward_1313_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Windshield Repair
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. VIN 10115 auction update
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: FRAME THANX
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: No help from the List?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

13. Re: High Voltage Coils, High Octane Fuel
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: 12V Ignition to Factory Modules
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: pie and hose questions
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. The DIRT
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

17. Re: FRAME THANX
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: FRAME THANX
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: The DIRT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. For Sale: 1981 DeLorean Early Vin# 01063 Low Miles Must See
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: idle behavior?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

22. RE: The DIRT
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com

23. RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. RE: idle behavior?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. RE: Spark Plug Wires
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 13:11:04 EST
From: grex37_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1744

In a message dated 11/8/2003 6:21:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:

Yes, about those "eyebrows"... why do some cars have them and others do not. 
Whats the story behind them? I never understood that.

John


> had an obsession with everything being just right, and i feel that the 
> current 
> condition of my car is representative of what you get for a $27,600 
> investment.... and i am still not done.  remember that my frame needs 
> replacement, i 
> need to straighten my eyebrows, and i still need some new steering parts 
> (worn 
> but not bad yet, would rather replace them now before they get too bad).  
> surely 
> there are people who will find that gem of a car for $10,000 and it only 
> takes $5,000 more or whatever to get it to the same level as someone who 
> paid 
> $35,000.  but for the vast majority of us, that opportunity will probably 
> never be 
> presented.  
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 10:07:34 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: All Hose replacment

ALL:


Im half way done replacing the hoses on the car. 
front half is tommorrow.  Found lots of fun garbage
ontop of the underside gas tank cover.

The Hose kit i purchased was definately not worth what
I paid for it.  If I could do it again, id go to a
place out in town and get some and cut it myself.

It looks like someone spent very little time to cut
these to specification.  The large rear hose on the
driver side  somewhat resembles what the original
should look like.

If I hadnt had the need to get this done this week 
and already installed this, i would have returned it,
regardless of any restocking cost i would have to pay.

Thankfully I was able to aquire some hoses out in town
and cut them to the length of the old ones to be able
to finish the rear half.

more news will follow.


jordan



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 20:11:28 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Failed emissions!!! PASSED!

My car passed emissions today with no further tweaking at all. I 
tried another DEQ station and my car passed at this one with crazy 
low numbers. I guess their machines arent all measuring the same.

adam p.






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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 20:58:42 -0000
From: "twin_rotors" <twin_rotors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: seeking high resolution image(s)

This is my first posting on the DML, so "hello" to all of you.  I am 
a painter in search of a pretty high resolution image of a DeLorean 
sporting the wide side stripes for my next project.  Even though I 
have a fairly extensive DMC photo archive, as I'm sure many of you 
have as well, I have not managed to capture any quality shots of 
the "cars with the stripes"...I just don't see them as much.  About 
a year and a half ago I was in Garden Grove, CA seeking out the 
DeLorean Motor Center.  Well, I found it and the guys gave me a full 
tour of the facility.  By the time we got out to the back lot where 
the bulk of the DMC's were, I had already blown through all my 
film...that's where I saw the most beautiful Delorean I still have 
ever seen to this day (no offense to any of you).  Described as 
being a one time champion show car it had something like 12 hundred 
miles on it (maybe 12 thousand but I really thought he said 12 
hundred), not one wave of imperfection in the brushed steel, had gas 
flap and style lines, no heat warping on either rear or front 
fascia's...flawless.  Oh, back to my point...This car had customized 
side stripes.  They were the wide black factory side stripes with 
the DMC cut-outs and double "italic" dashes, but inside and around 
all the lettering was a masterful, meticulous pinstriping done in a 
very thin red vinyl, or it could have been enamel.  Anyhow, this is 
what I'm trying to re-create in my newest painting and the images I 
have, even from the internet, are very poor.  If anyone has a few 
good pictures of these stripes I would very much appreciate them.  
My email is twin_rotors_at_dml_yahoo.com or you could try 
submerger_at_dml_hotmail.com.

P.S.  Just so you know I'm not wasting our time, all the work I do 
is car related, whether it be paintings, graphics, installations, 
film/video/animation, etc.  I am mostly transfixed with sportscar 
designs from the late 60's to the early 80's.  I idolize Giugiaro 
and other designers who brought us the "wedge" and the "high 
imposing truncated tails", the straight lines and the symmetry...all 
those things that make a DeLorean what it is, and what it will 
always be...Perfect.  That is what I hope for people to recognize in 
my work.


Kindest regards,

-cr    




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:10:35 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: idle behavior?

I know this topic has been discussed a few times, and I actually
remember a previous post about this, but I was unable to find it by
searching.  

Basically I'm just doing a sanity check by asking this...I have #1604,
a 5 speed with 27,000 miles, and when I start the car, it idles fast,
and then after a few seconds slows down to around 750 rpms.  Is this
how it's "supposed" to be?  I have no other problems with the car; no
stalling, etc.  I have no trouble starting it when the engine is hot
or cold, either.  

thanks,

Matt 
#1604





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 22:17:03 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: wrecked VIN 10115 up for auction

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I just wanted to let all of you guys know my totalled VIN 10115 is up for 
auction right now in China Grove, NC. Here are the details- the company is 
Copart, their website is www.copart.com .  Their phone number is 704-857-
5177 and my car is lot number 8821813.
<SNIP>

Is Copart a public auction? While the local impound yards auctions are 
always open to the public, the Copart auction site here in Las Vegas would 
only accept bids/registrations from licensed Dealers, and Auto Dismantlers 
last time I talked with them.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:24:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

You can't get the whole picture by using a multi-meter and measuring
DC resistance. The coil is an AC device with the additional properties
of reactance and impedance. You COULD use a scope and measure all of
this. From Kayo's experience though we can conclude his combination
isn't too bad. BTW not only could you shorten the life of the coil but
you could also shorten the life of the ignition wires, spark plugs,
and ECU. For the small (if any) gains that you could achieve I think
(IMHO) instead of spending for the sometimes pricey "performance"
parts just do a good tune-up more often and you would probably be way
ahead. Putting a coil with a higher output on old wires and worn plugs
is not the way to improve performance (again only my humble opinion).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Bill, The way the Pertronix is made, you could run it with straight
voltage
> and get more punch. My not last but 1 or 2 years instead of 4 or 5.





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 01:37:05 -0000
From: "slowlydownward1313" <slowly_downward_1313_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Spark Plug Wires

I'm in the middle of aquiring parts for a 30k service. Today, I 
noticed that my car, which I've owned only 12 months, is 
running "Bougicord 403" spark plug wires. 
Does anyone know about these wires? Are they better or worse than 
Bosch? The website www.bougicord.com states: 

"Bougicord® proposes a great choice of original parts to you for all 
types of vehicles, which you drive Audi or a Volvo, Nissan or 
Peugeot, we have the parts that you need."

Any thoughts on these wires? 






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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 17:45:02 -0800 (PST)
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Windshield Repair

Anyone have any ideals on removing scratches from a
windshield. Some dope put the wrong size wiper blades
on and I have a nice little arc scribed in the glass.



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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 22:03:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: VIN 10115 auction update

I've been contacted by several parties who say they can't see the car online. To be able to see the car online, and to bid for it online you have to pay a non-refundable $200 registration fee. You don't have to come to NC to bid on the car, but even if you did you'd have to pay the same fee. I've gotten several emails from people wishing that I had posted the car was going up for auction sooner. I only found out Friday afternoon that the car was currently up for auction. There was a fluke in the auction process, and the car came up for auction suddenly. It's a wonder I even know that the car is up for auction now. Thanks to the watchful eye of the individual who was to buy it, we all know now. The second I found out this information, I posted it to the list because the individual who was the first to contact me about the car had to back out once he found out about the registration fee, and his inability to drive over to the auction on such short notice. I posted the car to the list rather than contact and verify/cross off the parties who contacted me in order after I first posted that I totalled the car. Because of such short notice, I felt that would be wasting valuable time, and I wanted to at least give everyone in the DeLorean community the equal chance of getting the car if they so desired. Believe me, I want the car to go to a good home, preferably to someone on the DML. I wouldn't purposefully hold back any info on the car. Why should I? Keep in mind to that the car was totalled by the insurance company of the at fault driver, and I signed over the title to them a month ago now. I haven't owned the car since that time period, so my personal interests have nothing to do with this less than ideal timing. It's just the way the dice have fallen. Good luck to any and all who decide to bid on the car. Drop me an email if you win the car... I'd like to keep track of what happens to it. Again, if anyone has any questions/concerns, contact me off-list.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC

_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of  "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>



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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 03:10:58 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FRAME THANX

It is a shame you feel this way.  I find the members of the DML, and 
the DMCFORUM to be very helpful when they can be.

I don't recall your origional post, but in the past some of my 
questions have gone unanswered.  Not all questions can be answered, 
but many can (or already have).

It would be a shame to loose your participation in the on-line 
DeLorean community.  So, please reconsider if maybe you have judged 
too quickly?

Either way, good luck with your restoration.  I hope to see you in 
pigeon forge.

Marc

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "IM2WITTY" <im2witty_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> [MODERATOR NOTE: Behold, a miracle!]
> 
> Hello all
> 
> I made two posts concerning the restoration of a Delorean frame.
> One post was allowed by the moderators and the other post was not  
> (it would be a miracle if the moderators allowed THIS message to be 
> posted).
> 
> To make a long story short, I received NO replies, except for one 
> guy who wanted to sell me "stuff."  
> 
> Somehow, he aquired my DIRECT e-mail address and I did appreciate 
it 
> highly, that he took the time to respond to me.
> 
> As for the rest of the "D" owners who did not reply, I can only 
> say "Thank you."
> 
> I KNOW now that my "D" problems I stand alone.
> 
> Once again,
> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Peter
> 
> #6201
> 
> P.S.  The COMPLETE RESTORATION OF MY DELOREAN BEGINS TODAY and I 
> will no longer bother the rest of you "D" experts and owners for 
> your assistance.  However, if you have any questions or need any 
> assistance, I WILL gladly respond to ALL of you if I know the 
> CORRECT answers to your questions.  Also, since I am an 
> expert "cyber jock"  I have recently discovered the "Cornacopia" 
> of "D" parts.  Why gee, just two weeks ago, I purchase (and had 
> delivered) a Delorean frame in excellent condition.  
> 
> I paid $200 for the frame which is currently suspended from my 
> garage ceiling.  My wife would not allow me to clutter up the 
garage 
> floor because she needs the room for my babies strollers & "things."
> 
> This is # 6201 signing off.
> 
> Good bye




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 20:22:35 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: No help from the List?

  Peter,

It is too bad people did not respond to your question.  Unfortunately, I 
have found the list to be very helpful sometimes and other times people 
do not respond.  

My guess is that sometimes members are just too busy to check their 
email and write back.  I know this is my case many times.  However, I 
have posted many responses that can be found in the archives.

If you are a member of yahoo, you can search the archives on what people 
have done in the past.

I know there was a number of people doing different things to their frames.

Good luck on 6201

BOB




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 06:35:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: High Voltage Coils, High Octane Fuel

First high octane fuel: is not "better", is "less volatile". Can
compress further without igniting before spark. Made for high
compression engines. For example my 11:1 460 was designed for 97
octane (standard high grade in the 1960's). Timed at factory spec will
predetonate on anything less. I'm able to run 93 octane (to save money
on separate bottles of octane boost) but only by advancing ignition
time 2-3 degrees so spark will hit fuel before spontaneous combustion.
My 9.5:1 PRV also needs 93 octane (predetonates on 89 if I time 10
degrees -- Renault spec).

Note "premium fuel" is actually counter productive in low compression
engines -- leads to carbon buildup.

Now high voltage coils: I find engines have greatest difficulty
combusting when cold, full of condensation, etc. Can get very
incomplete fuel burn. All the vacuum crap I rip off my carbureted
blocks is designed to overcome this with a dizzying array of Rube
Goldberg delay valves, ported vacuum switches, extra carb passages,
etc. Am sure it worked great when cars left factory 25 years ago.
Isn't worth 2 cents now. Plus my replacement carb of choice
(Edelbrock, which is actually made by Weber using old Carter YFB
design -- go figure) doesn't even have the extra passages. I take
direct route: simplify vacuum to spark advance only then zap mixture
with higher voltage. Works like a charm.

Pertinent to DeLo: PRV is very basic engine. Warm up regulator (which
really performs function of carb choke plate only), Lamda which has no
effect on ignition whatsoever, and spark advance that doesn't kick in
until throttle plates open. That's it. Definitely can benefit from
higher voltage, especially when conditions not conducive to good fuel
burn.

Should be obvious by now that you and I will never agree on this
issue. Humbly suggest you not get so worked up about it. Even if
higher voltage coils had no benefit at all:
1) are my cars to configure as I wish
2) ignition coil usually costs less than any other item on engine 
3) are 1001 other things you should be asking me about but never do:
condition of filters, time since last fluid changes, etc

Bill Robertson
#5939

>Bill,
>
>do you understand what a resistor does ? It limits the current
through >the
>coil !
>Why is this needed ? Because the ignition module may not handle much
>more
>current.
>Maybe it will, but who knows without any specs and datasheets ?
>The resistor also protects the coil. Same issue - too much current for >a
>longer time will fry
>the wonder-coil, too. The interesting thing for a coil is NOT the
>voltage
>but the current through it !
>Original resistor plus a coil with lower resistor < original
>resistor+original coil. (Don't recall all
>the values to give you a correct number)
>Therefore there will be stored more energy in the same time. This may >be
>interesting for higher rpm.
>But my original configuration also makes 6500rpm...
> 
> You could also use the original coil and bridge one half of the
resistor -
> more current - more 
> energy in the coil !
> 
> In the good old days of breaker and points the coils had a larger
internal
> resistor and therefore they reduced the current themselves. But at
higher
> rpm's there may have been not enough energy to make a good ignition.
The dwell
> had to be set to satisfy low and high speeds as good as possible.
> 
> Why don't you explain us what kind of difference you feel with the
> superduper coil ?
> Maybe there still is a difference at higher rpm's, but so far you
just said
> "it is better".
> 
> Like using premium gas instead of regular. It is better - that's
what people
> tell me. So
> why do the car manufacturers not recommend it ? Because they can measure
> exactly what
> some people think they can feel ?
> 
> Give us some more details, values, and explanations based on facts
and maybe
> you will
> convince us. But so far it was only - hey, they write on the box it is
> better, therefore it
> muste be better....
> 
> Regards,
> Elvis & 6548

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 06:47:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: 12V Ignition to Factory Modules

Have always been told full 12v will generally cook a factory ignition
module, and have yet to see evidence otherwise. Thus my practice is to
leave ballast resistors (resistance wire in my Lincolns) in place
UNLESS module is changed too. Have one car burning complete Pertronix
system -- coil and replacement module -- at full voltage. All the
others remain 10v as they left the factory. Does cut down on final
ignition voltage, but I figured closer to 35,000 volts from a coil
otherwise rated 45,000.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Bill, The way the Pertronix is made, you could run it with straight
voltage
> and get more punch. My not last but 1 or 2 years instead of 4 or 5.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 06:56:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: pie and hose questions

Hose near A/C compressor is formed hose to radiator ("upper" radiator
hose). Order from DeLo vendor of choice. Won't find in parts house
computers so don't even try. Note is just 1 of 6 hose to front of car.

Pipe under manifold is part of heater core return line. I replaced
with one contiguous hose from frame pipe to pump. No problems in 6,000
miles. Is 5/8" BTW.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> List,
> 
>     There is a pipe, part #102482 that goes from the bottom back
side of 
> the water pump and under the intake toward the front of the car. It is 
> about 1 1/2 feet long. Does anybody see anything wrong with replacing 
> that with silicon hose all the way from the water pump to the other
side 
> of the engine?
>     Also, I saw a "D" from Tenn. that had a hose from the water pump 
> that went in front of the A/C pulley and then around the left side of 
> the compressor and down to the pipe. Does anyone know what I'm talking 
> about, and does anyone know where I can get one?
>     Is there a  after market replacement for the vacuum solenoid? #
101116
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Steve 1089




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 14:22:43 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: The DIRT

Sorry to hear that guy with the frame resto issue didn't get the help 
he wanted. Here's -my- story of other "D" owner's generosity:

I am so glad that of all the cars, clubs and people I could have
associated myself with, that I chose to buy a DeLorean.

For the second time now I've had people come from out of state, with
parts, tools and test equipment just to help me out. They didn't want
anything in return. No money, no parts. Just a "help me out next
time". (Dave Stragand wanted some Dr. Pepper for the radiator he 
brought me)

Mike Cohee donated his garage. His wife courteously kept us stuffed
with hot wings, candy bars and soda all weekend. Chinese for dinner.
I did contribute pizza Friday night. :) Dave Stragand came down with
a gazillion different fasteners, tools and a Bear engine analyzer. He
also brought his experience and knowlege. Bill Robertson, conned his
buddy into towing me 40 or 50 miles to Mike's place free of charge
and shuttled me around while my car was on the operating table. He's
also the McMaster.com stainless king. People flame Bill far too much.
If you don't agree with how he runs his cars, that's fine but he'll
give you a kidney if you needed it.

I call these guys "The DIRT", The DIsaster Recovery Team. We took
pictures with Dave's digital cam so hopefully he'll post them when he
gets home. Here's the short list of what we did Friday and Saturday:

1. Removed my blown out radiator. The RH tank has seperated from the
tubes.

2. We discovered Dave's radiator had a pin hole. Some discussion led
to Dave soldering it while I applied vacuum with a hand pump to draw
in the solder. All Dave's idea. Bill had the vac pump. We vac AND
pressure tested the radiator. Good fix.

3. We replaced every section of rubber hose from bow to stern. Bill
supplied the hose from his remaining section of stock as well as a
slew of clamps. I swapped out my otterstat for one that clicks on a
bit sooner. I think the original is out of calibration.

4. Here's a biggie: TABs. One was determined to be "not original" and
looked like it came from a hardware store. Ewww. Again, replaced with
one of Bill's originals. It was very clean and straight. No rust.

5. The coup de gras was Dave's portable engine analyzer. Mechanic in
a box. Hooks about half a dozen leads to points on the car, talks
through a lap top. He could show us which cylinders were firing
poorly and maybe why. Ignition graphs, cranking tests, the works. We
found a near-dead plug wire so we fab'd a replacement.

6. At last, a fuel pressure test rig. My pump puts out 4.8-ish Bar.
My CPR cold, only puts out .8 Bar. Too low but it -does- warm up
quickly to the required 3.5 bar. We found that the metal tubing at
the fuel filter was kinked closed so I installed John Hervey's filter
fix kit. I cut back the kinked section of metal tube.

7. Inertia switch. Dave found wires upstream stripped and twisted
together providing a constant ground to the fuel pump. I separated
them and now the switch works like it should.

8. The "De-carbonizer". Eco-disaster in a can. This stuff is cool.
Disconnect the supply and return lines from the fuel dist. Hook up
this pressure rig to the supply side and screw in the can. Start the
car. The engine runs -on the can-. Makes a wicked smoke screen but it
will positively eat anything bad in your engine. Kind of like a car-
colonic. May cause cancer in humans.

That's all just MY car. Mike Cohee got some attention too but I'll
let him tell his story.

The end result? My car now runs the best it has since I've owned it.
The drive home was incredible. I believe I have as much power as that
engine is supposed to make in stock form.

Thanks guys.

Rich A.
#5335





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 11:29:11 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FRAME THANX

Peter,
    Ever consider that nobody on this list is an expert at restoring a
DeLorean frame or maybe they missed your e-mail? One person you might want
to consult with is Rob Grady at PJ Grady. He might be able to help you.
631-589-6224 is the number. It usually pays to give them a call first before
asking the list in my opinion. They can usually help you more quickly and
accurately than the list (no offense guys) due to their extensive
experience. Ease up on the hate mail a lil... it doesn't do anyone any
good...

---Dan
*Restored my stainless from the damaging effects of paint prep work (DA
sander with 80 grit paper... ouch!)... And nobody gave me any info on how to
restore it either... I figured it out myself. :)

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 18:30:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: FRAME THANX

If you're talking about Message #33607, that post sounded as if
there'd be no activity for many months. Also did not sound like urgent
plea for help (Rich A posted a clearly urgent plea last week -- to
another Group -- and three of us did so this weekend). 

DeLo community probably did not understand exactly what you wanted
from us. Below message a little acerbic, but should generate
responses. I'm not a welder so won't suggest anything myself.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 17:05:51 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The DIRT

There are a lot of issues that very few people actually have answers to.  The 
frame for one I doubt most DeLorean owners ever deal with so the number of 
people with experience is limited.  Others like myself may not be able to read 
every post and may have missed it.
There are a number of technical people on the DML that if you have a specific 
question if you are a long time member of the DML you know who they are and 
can e-mail them direct as I do since I know many of my questions will not get 
responded to on the DML. I also get a lot of questions privately from the DML 
after people see what I have been responding to and I do not think I have ever 
not responded.

This forum is an aid not a guarenteed solution to problems.  Us it for what 
it is and I am sure any problems can be addressed.

Miracles do happen

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 23:37:59 -0000
From: "hodakaguy" <hodakaguy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: For Sale: 1981 DeLorean Early Vin# 01063 Low Miles Must See

I'm Listing up for sale my 1981 DeLorean, Vin# 01063.  We are going 
to be switching houses next summer and the DeLorean is being sold to 
help fund the house.  I'm the Second Owner of this DeLorean, I looked 
for several months at many DeLoreans before buying this one, Its one 
of the cleanest DeLoreans that I have seen!!!  It has 32,000 miles on 
it, It has always been garraged since new!  100% reliable and 
everything on the car functions like it should.  It is a 5 speed with 
desirable black interior.  Comes with all Original paperwork and 
maint reciepts since new, over $13,000 in reciepts for maint since 
new. 30,000 mile service completed. All work has been performed at 
the DeLorean Motor Center in CA since new.  Car spent its whole life 
in CA untill the begining of this summer when it was driven to WA 
state.  All new AC hoses, compressor, 2000 miles on New Michelin 
Pilot H4 tires, upgraded window motors and regulators, New fuel pump 
and boots, ect ect.  Car is as stock as possible other that just a 
few modifications, stainless cooling bottle, rear louver brace.   
Original interior is in excellent cond, no rips, tears, ect.  
Original Dash is like new with no cracks.  Original floor mats in 
great cond.  Original stereo works great, Way to much stuff to list.  
Car was lowered front and rear by the DeLorean motor Center, 
Adjustable rear lower control arms.  If you are looking for a super 
clean DeLorean that is 100% reliable and ready to drive with all the 
upgrades taken care of look no further.  Many extras including custom 
fit car cover, car show displays, ect.  $20,000 Firm.  Look at the 
rest then take a look at this one.  Located in Kennewick WA. Please 
contact Tom at (509) 521-9334 for more info.  Thanks, Tom.




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 23:49:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: idle behavior?

Yes! It takes a second or two for the idle speed motor to settle in.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> I know this topic has been discussed a few times, and I actually
> remember a previous post about this, but I was unable to find it by
> searching.  
> 
> Basically I'm just doing a sanity check by asking this...I have 
#1604,
> a 5 speed with 27,000 miles, and when I start the car, it idles 
fast,
> and then after a few seconds slows down to around 750 rpms.  Is 
this
> how it's "supposed" to be?  I have no other problems with the car; 
no
> stalling, etc.  I have no trouble starting it when the engine is 
hot
> or cold, either.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt 
> #1604




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 18:50:26 -0500
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: The DIRT

Hi guys,

Sorry that I couldn't make the session. Glad to hear that the DMC community is still going strong.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack
VIN 20069


"cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:

>Sorry to hear that guy with the frame resto issue didn't get the help 
>he wanted. Here's -my- story of other "D" owner's generosity:
>
>I am so glad that of all the cars, clubs and people I could have
>associated myself with, that I chose to buy a DeLorean.
>
>For the second time now I've had people come from out of state, with
>parts, tools and test equipment just to help me out. They didn't want
>anything in return. No money, no parts. Just a "help me out next
>time". (Dave Stragand wanted some Dr. Pepper for the radiator he 
>brought me)
>
>Mike Cohee donated his garage. His wife courteously kept us stuffed
>with hot wings, candy bars and soda all weekend. Chinese for dinner.
>I did contribute pizza Friday night. :) Dave Stragand came down with
>a gazillion different fasteners, tools and a Bear engine analyzer. He
>also brought his experience and knowlege. Bill Robertson, conned his
>buddy into towing me 40 or 50 miles to Mike's place free of charge
>and shuttled me around while my car was on the operating table. He's
>also the McMaster.com stainless king. People flame Bill far too much.
>If you don't agree with how he runs his cars, that's fine but he'll
>give you a kidney if you needed it.
>
>I call these guys "The DIRT", The DIsaster Recovery Team. We took
>pictures with Dave's digital cam so hopefully he'll post them when he
>gets home. Here's the short list of what we did Friday and Saturday:
>
>1. Removed my blown out radiator. The RH tank has seperated from the
>tubes.
>
>2. We discovered Dave's radiator had a pin hole. Some discussion led
>to Dave soldering it while I applied vacuum with a hand pump to draw
>in the solder. All Dave's idea. Bill had the vac pump. We vac AND
>pressure tested the radiator. Good fix.
>
>3. We replaced every section of rubber hose from bow to stern. Bill
>supplied the hose from his remaining section of stock as well as a
>slew of clamps. I swapped out my otterstat for one that clicks on a
>bit sooner. I think the original is out of calibration.
>
>4. Here's a biggie: TABs. One was determined to be "not original" and
>looked like it came from a hardware store. Ewww. Again, replaced with
>one of Bill's originals. It was very clean and straight. No rust.
>
>5. The coup de gras was Dave's portable engine analyzer. Mechanic in
>a box. Hooks about half a dozen leads to points on the car, talks
>through a lap top. He could show us which cylinders were firing
>poorly and maybe why. Ignition graphs, cranking tests, the works. We
>found a near-dead plug wire so we fab'd a replacement.
>
>6. At last, a fuel pressure test rig. My pump puts out 4.8-ish Bar.
>My CPR cold, only puts out .8 Bar. Too low but it -does- warm up
>quickly to the required 3.5 bar. We found that the metal tubing at
>the fuel filter was kinked closed so I installed John Hervey's filter
>fix kit. I cut back the kinked section of metal tube.
>
>7. Inertia switch. Dave found wires upstream stripped and twisted
>together providing a constant ground to the fuel pump. I separated
>them and now the switch works like it should.
>
>8. The "De-carbonizer". Eco-disaster in a can. This stuff is cool.
>Disconnect the supply and return lines from the fuel dist. Hook up
>this pressure rig to the supply side and screw in the can. Start the
>car. The engine runs -on the can-. Makes a wicked smoke screen but it
>will positively eat anything bad in your engine. Kind of like a car-
>colonic. May cause cancer in humans.
>
>That's all just MY car. Mike Cohee got some attention too but I'll
>let him tell his story.
>
>The end result? My car now runs the best it has since I've owned it.
>The drive home was incredible. I believe I have as much power as that
>engine is supposed to make in stock form.
>
>Thanks guys.
>
>Rich A.
>#5335



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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:09:43 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

My point exactly, the performance gained by beefing up the coil, the wires
and plugs will yield better performance. So, You might replace them a little
more often, but that is a small price to pay while sitting at a light and
the engine runs smooth instead of jumping around and the acceleration is
responsive because of above. Never hurts to have a little extra. MSD has
done good by it and has built a whole new multi million dollar industry
around ignition technology. The standard ignition coil for the Delorean is
more expensive than the newer performance coils and the wires are about the
same.
Also, A coil is a transformer with primary windings and secondary windings.
The more windings on the secondary vs the primary the more yield as long as
it was designed to carry the load at higher RPM's.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 3:25 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Kayo Ong's Coil


> You can't get the whole picture by using a multi-meter and measuring
> DC resistance. The coil is an AC device with the additional properties
> of reactance and impedance. You COULD use a scope and measure all of
> this. From Kayo's experience though we can conclude his combination
> isn't too bad. BTW not only could you shorten the life of the coil but
> you could also shorten the life of the ignition wires, spark plugs,
> and ECU. For the small (if any) gains that you could achieve I think
> (IMHO) instead of spending for the sometimes pricey "performance"
> parts just do a good tune-up more often and you would probably be way
> ahead. Putting a coil with a higher output on old wires and worn plugs
> is not the way to improve performance (again only my humble opinion).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757



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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:11:20 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: idle behavior?

Yes, That sounds right.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 3:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] idle behavior?


I know this topic has been discussed a few times, and I actually
remember a previous post about this, but I was unable to find it by
searching.

Basically I'm just doing a sanity check by asking this...I have #1604,
a 5 speed with 27,000 miles, and when I start the car, it idles fast,
and then after a few seconds slows down to around 750 rpms.  Is this
how it's "supposed" to be?  I have no other problems with the car; no
stalling, etc.  I have no trouble starting it when the engine is hot
or cold, either.

thanks,

Matt
#1604



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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:59:00 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Spark Plug Wires

Bougicord wires like the Bosch wires are excellent for normal applications
and meeting all the test for US and over seas applications. But, If your
looking for a little more of a performance wire that doesn't have to meet
all the regulated specifications and will deliver more fire power, Then
there are alternatives.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: slowlydownward1313 [mailto:slowly_downward_1313_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 5:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Spark Plug Wires


> I'm in the middle of aquiring parts for a 30k service. Today, I
> noticed that my car, which I've owned only 12 months, is
> running "Bougicord 403" spark plug wires.
> Does anyone know about these wires? Are they better or worse than
> Bosch? The website www.bougicord.com states:
>
> "Bougicord® proposes a great choice of original parts to you for all
> types of vehicles, which you drive Audi or a Volvo, Nissan or
> Peugeot, we have the parts that you need."
>
>Any thoughts on these wires?



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