From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1750
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 6:26 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. hot start no start
From: "armac.rm" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

2. Delorean Parts Wish List
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. New DELOREAN Documentary to be filmed - Do you want to be in it?
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Re: Porsche Boxer H6 engine
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

5. Re: Gullwing Option on New Lotus Elise...Can this work?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

6. Re: John Hervey Ignition Suggestion
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Cup Holder - ADVANCED
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. RE: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "Steve Abbott" <abbotts_at_dml_aardvark.net.au>

11. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Porsche Boxer H6 engine
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>

13. Re: Engine overhauling
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: MORE 'D' BLUES
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>

15. Re: eyebrows
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

17. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. Re: Stubborn Vehicle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: hot start no start
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

20. Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

21. Re: eyebrows
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

22. Does anyone have an active carfax account?
From: NJP548_at_dml_aol.com

23. RE: MORE 'D' BLUES
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

25. Re: Need assistance in Brooklyn, NY area
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 03:21:59 -0000
From: "armac.rm" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: hot start no start

81 model with 11k on the clock. I have replaced every part of the 
fuel system except the fuel pump and RPM relay. I am going to perform 
the intake hose and baffle update but was wondering if I should go 
ahead and replace the fuel pump while I had it out. The pump makes a 
very light hum like most pumps do and that is all. I hate not driving 
the car because of the fact that I know ot will not start back up 
once the engine has been running with out alot of trouble. I could 
jump the hot start relay socket and get it to start but after 
replacement of the fuel accumaltor, that little trick does not seem 
to work any more.


VIN# 5745




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 03:45:37 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean Parts Wish List

Hi everyone,
I have not yet bought my Delorean, but plan to very soon.
(I am looking for a nice grey/manual for around $10K if you know where
one is).
I think I have found my car for about $12K, but it will need to have
the interior re-done and a few of the standard update.

I have put together a wish list on Microsoft Excel and uploaded
it to the DMCNEWS FILES folders, as "D_wish_list".
Feel free to look it over, please add to it with better parts,
better sources, better prices....etc.
I set it up into 3 tiers, the MUST have, good to have, and wish I had.
The MUST have's are the important electrical and engine updates.
The want's are the extra goodies like remote doors and stuff....
the wish list includes stuff like chrome wheels and what not.

Feel free to update it and mail it to me at videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com
or make suggestions.
Please highlight changes and updates in a color so I can spot them.
If anyone needs me to send them the file as an attachment please
email me.

Thanks.
- Videobob




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 03:56:07 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: New DELOREAN Documentary to be filmed - Do you want to be in it?

Hello DMC friends.
Let me introduce myself.
My name is "Videobob".
I am a television producer in Fort Worth, Texas and I currently
have several national syndicated TV shows on the air now
(I will mention them later).
I am interested in making a new documentary about the
Delorean phenomenon.
Unlike previous documentaries that concentrate on the history
of the car and John Delorean, I want to point out the owners who
have dedicated their lives to these cars, and how they can consume
a large part of their life and how it has effected them.

I already have a network with about 65 affiliates that will air
the program, however it's real intended audience will be for
PBS, Discovery, TLC, etc....

I need YOUR help.
I need advice on who I should interview and why.
Do you have some great video of your Deloreans and experiences?
Have you invented a product that has improved the car?
Are you an expert on the Delorean?
Has the Delorean car changed your life in anyway?
Have you ever wrecked your Delorean?

I would also like someone to help me with contact information.
Does anyone know how to get in contact with 
John Z. Delorean?
If so, please contact me directly.

My plans so far is to get most of my footage while
meeting many of you at the Pigeon Forge meeting next year.
I would like coordinate with many of you before then.

I would like to try to turn around the image and reputation of the car.
We are all sick of hearing "Did you get any coke in the car?"
Or... "Isn't John Delorean still in prison?"
We have all heard these goofy questions, and even been called
"DORKS" by Discovery channel.
The car has been hopelessly branded to the BTTF movies.
I am hoping that THIS documentary will show the general public
what the "dream" was all about, and we all want to "live it".
As an Irish decent American who appreciates the dream of what
this car represents, I want to be a part of it and let the
rest of the world know why this car is an important part of our
history and deserves the respect we all have for it.
Let's not forget, it's just a car..... but to us, it is much more.

Please help me do this.

You may learn more about me by going to:
http://www.robertmoseley.com
http://www.comixspotlight.com
http://www.stupidmovieoftheweek.com
http://www.wrenchingandriding.com

Robert "Videobob" Moseley
(817) 905-4262
videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com

Thanks everyone! 




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 22:46:24 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Porsche Boxer H6 engine

I was going to say he needed "a miracle"!!  "Room", as Dave suggests, is
a much nicer answer.  I measured the porsche flat-6's when I was looking
at an engine swap.  They really are broad at the bottom, and the Delorean
frame is particularly narrow, just like Dave has said.  The engine would
certainly not fit with the engine cradle still intact.  This may be
irrelavent, as I think the point of the flat-6 is that the weight is very
low in the car.  Putting this weight over the cradle woudn't really make
sense.

Dave suggests other v-6's, I don't think that's particularly necessary. 
Others have stuffed in rotary, V-8s, and I'm sure the inline-4 from the
Honda S2000 would fit in, and it's also 240hp n/a.  Coincidence?

Jim
1537


On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 19:28:41 -0000 "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
writes:
> Room, for starters. Looking at the DMC frame design, a Flat 6 
> probably won't fit in between the frame members (it's a close fit on 
> 
> the original V-6). Have you measured either the car or the engine? 
> V-
> engines are probably the only way to go. 
> 
> Dave S
> 


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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 23:02:18 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Gullwing Option on New Lotus Elise...Can this work?

The gullwing hardtop made a short appearance as a prototype "option" for
the Elise S2 a couple of years ago.  Close examination of the brochure
reveals that it was probably not more than an idea.  

http://www.elises.co.uk/models/s2/brochure/p5.jpg       (BIG!)

It never made it as an option, supposedly "too hard to make".  Still so,
some people were enchanted by the idea.  (it may be due to Delorean
fame?).   The URL you specified is one business that makes it.  You are
correct that it looks bizarre, and wouldn't work as it does in the
Delorean.  One of the mounting points would have to slide.  

There is one other company that makes the gullwing hardtop- it looks a
little different.
http://elisehardtop.co.uk/

click on "tbar".  It looks more like the Delorean setup, minus the
torsion bar.  I'm sure there's not much weight in those panels...

Jim



On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 19:31:04 -0500 "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
writes:
> I know this is slightly off subject, but I am sure there are DMC 
> owners
> who can shed some technical light on the subject.
> A friend of mine recently put a deposit on the new Lotus Elise car 
> that
> is set to ship to the US in spring of 2004.  While drooling over the
> thought of his future car, he started to research hard top options 
> for
> the car.  As it turns out, there is a company in britan who is 
> offering
> an aftermarket "Gullwing" option for the car.
>  
...


________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 04:17:33 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: John Hervey Ignition Suggestion

Thanks for the suggestion but am quite content to run coil off
remainder of factory system, even though slight reduction in rated
high performance. This is same configuration used by several other
owners with similar excellent results. If the ECU ever dies will
consider then dropping resistors as part of overall system upgrade
(new module).

My particular Pertronix coil is .6 ohms BTW (Flamethrower II).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Bill, As you know the blue / yellow wire coming from the solenoid is
only
> working when the solenoid is engaged. This eliminates only 1/2 of the
> resistor. If you want to eliminate the resistor you can move the
white wire
> on top right to bottom right and the resistor is eliminated. Couple that
> with the Pertronix coil at 1.5 ohm and your in business. Even the
Blaster 2
> at .7 ohms should be ok, but it was really made to work with their
> electronics unit.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...]
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 11:52 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Neverending Ignition Controversy
> 
> 
> To answer your question first: yes, bridging DeLo resistors WILL
> increase spark voltage. In fact DMC factory design starting relay does
> that every time you turn the key. (That's what the relay next to them
> is for).
> 
> Now my question: Why does my simple $30 ignition coil continue to
> bother you so?
> 
> Are many *OTHER* DeLo owners reporting improved performance from
> higher voltage coils. Why don't you ever flame them?
> 
> MSD, Pertronix, Mallory, Jacobs, and even Accel have built quite an
> industry out of nothing but "nice high numbers on boxes" BTW.
> 
> Could point you towards just as many websites (vs books) that say I'm
> right and you're wrong, but what would that accomplish -- we'd end up
> right back here in original disagreement.
> 
> Let's agree one more time to disagree, then not waste any more
bandwidth.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> >
> > Bill, you'r wrong again ;-)
> > I will agree with you in some points, but not in the way you
> > try to explain it or think it is working. If you're interested
> > I can scan you some pictures of some books I have and that explain
> > the ignition system very good. With some simple physical laws
> > you will understand why there's never a higher voltage than about
> > 20k volt on the ignition - as long as each part is ok.
> >
> > If your coil stores more energy than the stock unit, then you may
> > get some advantage of it. If only the ratio between primary and
> secondary
> > winding is higher than stock - you won't gain anything.(but you
will get
> > some nice and very high numbers on the box of the coil...that only
> > tell that it is the max voltage if no spark can occure...)
> >
> > I see you know and understand a lot about cars, fuel and stuff,
why not
> > try to understand the ignition, too ? that's something our car
> > mechanics learn at school and with the analyzer (oszilloscope) they
> > can tell you which part of the system has problems or not...(I learned
> > a lot the last days while reading this stuff)
> >
> > If stock iginition is set up too weak, then I should feel a difference
> > by bridging one of the two resistors, right ? (for a few minutes
> only, there
> > won't be a problem with overheating or something.)
> > If this makes a difference, the next step would be to find out which
> coil
> > would fit our cars without damaging the ECU or something. Maybe we
> can get
> > some informations from BOSCH...because Coil may be cheap, the ECU is
> not.
> > (by the way, my filters are clean, the fluids ok, the oil will be
> changed
> > before the winter - just my steering is still shaking when braking
> > and nobody could tel me yet why ?!?!?!(new rotors installed!!!!!))
> >
> > Elvis & 6548
> >
> > ....
> > Should be obvious by now that you and I will never agree on this
> > issue. Humbly suggest you not get so worked up about it. Even if
> > higher voltage coils had no benefit at all:
> > 1) are my cars to configure as I wish
> > 2) ignition coil usually costs less than any other item on engine
> > 3) are 1001 other things you should be asking me about but never do:
> > condition of filters, time since last fluid changes, etc
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 04:18:50 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Cup Holder - ADVANCED

We have all seen that clip on cup holder for sale, ....
but nothing beats the real thing.
I have one built into my Ford Taurus that I think is the most
awesome cup holder ever, it was one of the main descision makers
in buying the car! I am sure I am not the first to pick a car based on
the cup holder!

I have an idea but I am not sure if it will fly.
I need the advise of someone who is a lot more familiar with the
console and frame of the D.

My idea is to remove the top of the console and ashtray,
and custom build a new one.
The idea is to either drill into the actual frame with a hole saw
and recess the cup holder down into it with a matching base.
I have some friends who do composite plastics and fiberglass.
I thought if I built this new console and wrap it in the same
leather material.

If is not structually sound to do this drilling, then we could
make a mold that rises above the console instead.

I would love to hear what people think of this idea or if anyone
has ever done this.

Of course, this is for a daily driver and not for you guys who 
want to collect the car.
I like to live in my car.

What could complete a nice day driving than a cool glass of tea?
Eh?

- Videobob






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 04:50:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

I think you are a little confused, The red/purple wire from the ECU is
a feed (not a ground). If you are measuring a voltage there then you
can assume the ECU is providing power to the frequency valve. If the
valve won't buzz it is either defective (possibly stuck) or the ground
wire is unattached or broken. Pull the plug on the frequency valve and
check the red/purple for power and the other wire for continuity to
ground. It is a short wire and is sometimes not hooked back up after
working on the fuel system. I don't think it is a very good thing to
ground the red/purple wire, it could damage the ECU. In general the
ECU doesn't fail. With incorrect troubleshooting procedures though I
guess you could damage it (grounding the red/purple wire would be one
possability). The most common problem is the lambda relay and then the
O2 sensor but I think you have ruled these out. You could put a 12
volt bulb across the wires at the plug for the frequency valve, it
should light dimly and fluctuate in brightness.  
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yessir.
> 
> #5335 is the most stubborn car I have ever owned. It's enough to make
> grown man cry. After all that care over the weekend with the guys, I
> have yet another show-stopper (sort of).
> 
> Problem: The frequency valve is no longer working.
> 
> Please read carefully. There's a lot of info here. :)
> 
> Tests: 
> 1. Fuses 1 & 7 are good.
> 2. RPM relay is working. (pulled cover off and observed both contacts
> closed when engine runs)
> 3. Lambda relay is working. Provides power to ECU correctly as noted
> by voltage on green/yellow wire to ECU. ECU is grounded (cleaned &
> checked)
> 4. Jumpered 87b to 30 on RPM relay to power lambda system. Valve does
> not buzz.
> 5. 12Vdc is present on red/purp wire to freq valve. (grounded to block)
> 6. 12Vdc is NOT present across valve wires (red/purp & red/brn) The
> ECU provides ground on red/brn. No ground appears present at any
> time.(problem here?)
> 7. CO screw adjusted to encourage different behavior from ECU/freq
> valve. No effect.
> 8. Valve does not buzz when WOT switch is closed (fixed ratio)





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 21:05:58 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Stubborn Vehicle

Rich, If you determine that it is the FV, I have some used ones you can
try.I have only heard of 1 ECU going out in 4 to 5 years.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto


-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Stubborn Vehicle


Yessir.

#5335 is the most stubborn car I have ever owned. It's enough to make
grown man cry. After all that care over the weekend with the guys, I
have yet another show-stopper (sort of).

Problem: The frequency valve is no longer working.

Please read carefully. There's a lot of info here. :)

Tests:
1. Fuses 1 & 7 are good.
2. RPM relay is working. (pulled cover off and observed both contacts
closed when engine runs)
3. Lambda relay is working. Provides power to ECU correctly as noted
by voltage on green/yellow wire to ECU. ECU is grounded (cleaned &
checked)
4. Jumpered 87b to 30 on RPM relay to power lambda system. Valve does
not buzz.
5. 12Vdc is present on red/purp wire to freq valve. (grounded to block)
6. 12Vdc is NOT present across valve wires (red/purp & red/brn) The
ECU provides ground on red/brn. No ground appears present at any
time.(problem here?)
7. CO screw adjusted to encourage different behavior from ECU/freq
valve. No effect.
8. Valve does not buzz when WOT switch is closed (fixed ratio)
9. Valve does not buzz when engine is cold before O2 sensor kicks in
(fixed ratio)
10. Valve does not buzz when AA battery is applied to sensor lead.
11. I CAN open and close valve manually by providing ground from valve
(-) terminal to block since ground is missing from the ECU. Valve
operates. (I pretend to be the ECU this way by applying ground)
12. Dwell meter indicates no signal from ECU, reads zero. Tested IAW
the manual.
13. Lastly, cleaned and checked the lambda ground on the intake, and
 performed a continuity check on freq valve ground wire (red/brown)
from the ECU plug, to the freq valve. Wire is unbroken.

I'm always told the ECU's never fail. I have done everything I can to
avoid blaming the ECU. I have tried to eliminated the ECU as the
cause. I know I'm going to get flamed for this, but that's where this
seems to be leading. I believe the ECU switches ground on and off very
rapidly to make the valve buzz. The ground wire (red/brown) is intact
but the power circuit for the valve reads as an open when the system
is powered up. Again, the RED/PURPLE to the freq valve reads 12vdc, so
there is power. The ECU doesn't seem to be applying ground.

Am I crazy? Has ANYONE here ever had the ECU fail?

Thanks,

Rich A. &
The Stainless Steel Mule (#5335)



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 06:21:05 -0000
From: "Steve Abbott" <abbotts_at_dml_aardvark.net.au>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

I'm probably waaay off beam here, but from experience with this setup 
in V6 (and other) Volvos, I've found that all sorts of weird running 
problems can sometimes be traced back to rotted wiring insulation 
causing partial or total shorting of one wire to an adjacent one, 
even inside the wiring loom. Could this be a possibility? Only proper 
fix I've found is to pull the entire loom apart and replace or re-
cover all the wiring. Pig of a job. 

Cheers
Steve Abbott

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yessir.
> 
> #5335 is the most stubborn car I have ever owned. It's enough to 
make
> grown man cry. After all that care over the weekend with the guys, I
> have yet another show-stopper (sort of).
> 
> Problem: The frequency valve is no longer working.
> 
> Please read carefully. There's a lot of info here. :)
> 
> Tests: 
> 1. Fuses 1 & 7 are good.
> 2. RPM relay is working. (pulled cover off and observed both 
contacts
> closed when engine runs)
> 3. Lambda relay is working. Provides power to ECU correctly as noted
> by voltage on green/yellow wire to ECU. ECU is grounded (cleaned &
> checked)
> 4. Jumpered 87b to 30 on RPM relay to power lambda system. Valve 
does
> not buzz.
> 5. 12Vdc is present on red/purp wire to freq valve. (grounded to 
block)
> 6. 12Vdc is NOT present across valve wires (red/purp & red/brn) The
> ECU provides ground on red/brn. No ground appears present at any
> time.(problem here?)
> 7. CO screw adjusted to encourage different behavior from ECU/freq
> valve. No effect.
> 8. Valve does not buzz when WOT switch is closed (fixed ratio)
> 9. Valve does not buzz when engine is cold before O2 sensor kicks in
> (fixed ratio)
> 10. Valve does not buzz when AA battery is applied to sensor lead.
> 11. I CAN open and close valve manually by providing ground from 
valve
> (-) terminal to block since ground is missing from the ECU. Valve
> operates. (I pretend to be the ECU this way by applying ground)
> 12. Dwell meter indicates no signal from ECU, reads zero. Tested IAW
> the manual.
> 13. Lastly, cleaned and checked the lambda ground on the intake, 
and 
>  performed a continuity check on freq valve ground wire (red/brown)
> from the ECU plug, to the freq valve. Wire is unbroken.
> 
> I'm always told the ECU's never fail. I have done everything I can 
to
> avoid blaming the ECU. I have tried to eliminated the ECU as the
> cause. I know I'm going to get flamed for this, but that's where 
this
> seems to be leading. I believe the ECU switches ground on and off 
very
> rapidly to make the valve buzz. The ground wire (red/brown) is 
intact
> but the power circuit for the valve reads as an open when the system
> is powered up. Again, the RED/PURPLE to the freq valve reads 12vdc, 
so
> there is power. The ECU doesn't seem to be applying ground.
> 
> Am I crazy? Has ANYONE here ever had the ECU fail?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich A. &
> The Stainless Steel Mule (#5335)




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:52:33 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

I've known of one fail - not mine - I don't have one anymore :-P

You did check the ground connetion on the front right of the right of 
the intake manifold? Common one, that, and will stop the lambda system 
working.

Martin

cruznmd wrote:

>Yessir.
>
>#5335 is the most stubborn car I have ever owned. It's enough to make
>grown man cry. After all that care over the weekend with the guys, I
>have yet another show-stopper (sort of).
>
>Problem: The frequency valve is no longer working.
>
>Please read carefully. There's a lot of info here. :)
>  
>





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 06:45:13 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail_at_dml_softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Porsche Boxer H6 engine

What about just putting a supercharger (Paxton?) on the thing. Everyone always talks 
about the turbos or twin turbos but never a supercharger. You'll get about 50% more 
horses and keep the engine fairly stock and a whole hell of a lot easier then pulling 
the old one and figuring out getting a new one in.

Jeremy

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> not yet I can get the engine fairly cheap and figured I would get one 
> and see if it fit if not resell it
> 
> I don't have access to an engine unless I buy it - I can measure my car 
> though :-) Would be a neat conversion no? 240HP DMC non-turbo
> 
> > Room, for starters. Looking at the DMC frame design, a Flat 6 
> > probably won't fit in between the frame members (it's a close fit on 
> > the original V-6). Have you measured either the car or the engine? V-
> > engines are probably the only way to go. 
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> > > What would I need to look out for when considering putting a Flat 6
> > > 240HP Boxer engine in a Delorean?? Do you suppose it would work 
> > > out?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at http://
> > groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/
> > terms/ 
> >




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 04:28:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine overhauling

The PRV is a very tough little engine. It is no surprise that the
dealer had no experience that deep inside. In fact for most dealers it
usually makes more sense to just change the whole engine than to try
to get all the parts and spend all the time it would take to do the
job. They already have the old one out and it would be the same work
to put in the new one or the rebuilt one. The labor is the same except
for the rebuild. And then there is the chance it won't work. It is
MUCH easier for them to just order a rebuilt engine. Most car dealers
have a rebuild/exchange program so you see the service centers doing
less and less repairs and more and more unit replacement. Most
dealerships do not rebuild transmissions, starters, alternators, etc.
The aim is car turn-over. The more cars you can do in less time the
more you can make. That car sitting in the shop for a week takes up
the space of 5 or more that could have been through the shop. In all
likelyhood you will be fine with the largest liner.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve Abbott" <abbotts_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Thanks for the help David.
> I've spoken to our local Volvo service people and they don't have 
> much of a clue. They have never had a V6 apart, would you believe! 
> The parts department wasn't much help either. They're not even sure 





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 19:23:58 +1100 (EST)
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: MORE 'D' BLUES


Dear Lance,

In regard to you posting on your problem with the oil in the coolant, I assume that it is your head that is carcked. I might be wrong.

If you want to be 100% sure what the prob is and how to fix it I strongly recommend that you contact the Delorean Motor Compay in Houston, Texas USA via www.delorean.com, they will be able to sort out your problem and help with parts.

Kurt

Sydney Australia





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Personals
- New people, new possibilities. FREE for a limited time!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:04:20 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: eyebrows

I am willing to believe the warping is from heat, but I doubt it is
from the headlights, it is more likely from sitting in the sun next to
a hot radiator under it, with sun beaming on it slowly warping it over
time. I have considered taking one of these front peices and making
a hard fiberglass version.
Has anyone else ever thought of that?
Would anyone be interested in buying one if I made them?
I will look into it,....
- VB



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 11/9/03 4:13:30 PM Central Standard Time,
grex37_at_dml_a... 
> writes:
> 
> > Yes, about those "eyebrows"... why do some cars have them and
others do 
> > not. 
> > Whats the story behind them? I never understood that.
> > 
> > John
> 
> From what i understand, the headlights make the bumper warm up, and 
> permanantly warps the fascia.   It can be repaired by removing the
fascia, heating it 
> up, and reinforcing the fascia while it is still hot.  I have no
experience 
> doing this, but that's what i have been told.
> 
> i'll find out next summer probably....
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:32:17 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

In my post, if I said red/purple was ground, I mis-spoke. I'm aware 
the red/purp is feed. Red/brown is ground, provided by the ECU.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> I think you are a little confused, The red/purple wire from the ECU 
is
> a feed (not a ground). 


> You could put a 12
> volt bulb across the wires at the plug for the frequency valve, it
> should light dimly and fluctuate in brightness.  
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757

I have an icepick probe that would do the same thing. The bulb fails 
to light.





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:35:19 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> You did check the ground connetion on the front right of the right 
of the intake manifold? Common one, that, and will stop the lambda 
system working.
> 
> Martin
> 
I did check that. Cleaned it too. I also hooked my multimeter up to 
the beginning of the red/brown ground wire at the ECU plug, and the 
end of the red/brown wire at the freq valve and it indicates the wire 
is unbroken.

Rich




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:56:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Vehicle

After posting I thought to do more research. According to several
wiring diaghrams I have you are right to believe that the red/purple
is a ground. I still am not sure how this actually works because I
know for a fact there is a wire right by the frequency valve that when
left ungrounded the frequency valve won't work. At this point I think
the best thing is to make sure that there is nothing in the hot start
relay plug and just put a test light across the two wires in the plug
going to the frequency valve. It should light. If it doesn't then you
have to determine what is missing, the power or the ground. It could
be the frequency valve is bad, only opening when it has a full 12
volts and not able to buzz anymore with less than a 100% duty cycle.
Before replacing I would rule out any problem with the wiring harness.
You could also try smacking it lightly, sometimes it could dislodge a
piece of dirt holding it stuck. You could also measure the resistance
on it, it is just a coil. (Just ignore the previous post).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I think you are a little confused, The red/purple wire from the ECU is
> a feed (not a ground). If you are measuring a voltage there then you
> can assume the ECU is providing power to the frequency valve. If the
> valve won't buzz it is either defective (possibly stuck) or the ground
> wire is unattached or broken. Pull the plug on the frequency valve and





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:13:39 -0500
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: hot start no start

Hey VIN 5734

Which fuel pump do you have? If you have the older style I'd recommend to
change it. I had hot start problems when I first bought my car. I replaced
the fuel accumulator and the fuel pump. I had the old style "long neck" pump
with the built-in check valve. I was told that the newer style pump with the
external check valve was much better and more reliable, so I replaced it. No
more hot start problems.

Eric Itzel
vin 4433
eric_at_dml_seviernet.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "armac.rm" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: [DML] hot start no start


> 81 model with 11k on the clock. I have replaced every part of the
> fuel system except the fuel pump and RPM relay. I am going to perform
> the intake hose and baffle update but was wondering if I should go
> ahead and replace the fuel pump while I had it out. The pump makes a
> very light hum like most pumps do and that is all. I hate not driving
> the car because of the fact that I know ot will not start back up
> once the engine has been running with out alot of trouble. I could
> jump the hot start relay socket and get it to start but after
> replacement of the fuel accumaltor, that little trick does not seem
> to work any more.
>
>
> VIN# 5745
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>



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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:29:10 -0500
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED

Wow man, that seems like a lot of work for such a small thing!

I usually just wedge an Aquafina bottle or a screw-top coffee mug between
the little space between the drivers seat and the console, it fits fine and
doesn't really get in my way.

Good luck with that, though. More power to you if you can pull it off!

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 11:18 PM
Subject: [DML] Cup Holder - ADVANCED


> We have all seen that clip on cup holder for sale, ....
> but nothing beats the real thing.
> I have one built into my Ford Taurus that I think is the most
> awesome cup holder ever, it was one of the main descision makers
> in buying the car! I am sure I am not the first to pick a car based on
> the cup holder!
>
> I have an idea but I am not sure if it will fly.
> I need the advise of someone who is a lot more familiar with the
> console and frame of the D.
>
> My idea is to remove the top of the console and ashtray,
> and custom build a new one.
> The idea is to either drill into the actual frame with a hole saw
> and recess the cup holder down into it with a matching base.
> I have some friends who do composite plastics and fiberglass.
> I thought if I built this new console and wrap it in the same
> leather material.
>
> If is not structually sound to do this drilling, then we could
> make a mold that rises above the console instead.
>
> I would love to hear what people think of this idea or if anyone
> has ever done this.
>
> Of course, this is for a daily driver and not for you guys who
> want to collect the car.
> I like to live in my car.
>
> What could complete a nice day driving than a cool glass of tea?
> Eh?
>
> - Videobob
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:37:35 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: eyebrows

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I am willing to believe the warping is from heat, but I doubt it is
> from the headlights, it is more likely from sitting in the sun next 
to
> a hot radiator under it, with sun beaming on it slowly warping it 
over
> time. I have considered taking one of these front peices and making
> a hard fiberglass version.
> Has anyone else ever thought of that?
> Would anyone be interested in buying one if I made them?
> I will look into it,....
> - VB

Headlights do no cause warpage to the facia. Found this out when on 
vacation last year. Heated the facias by leaving the car out in the 
sun, rolled into the shade, and pushed them back down. Wasn't too 
hard to do, as the fascia was pretty plyable.

Spent the next week only driving my car at night, and left it parked 
in a dark garage durring the day. And since I was out, almost in the 
stix with very few street lights, I used my highbeams almost every 
time I went out. If the facias warped from the heat, I couldn't tell. 
But come my first day back to work when I had to park the car out in 
the sunlight again, *BOING!* they were warped back within a few hours.

Fiberglass is a nice idea, but unless there is a weight advantage, 
I'd just stick with the current urethane, and insert some splints 
above the headlamps to anchor things, before I re-paint.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 12:47:47 EST
From: NJP548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Does anyone have an active carfax account?

Hey List,

        Theres a car I need to run a carfax on, just wondering if anyone has 
an active carfax account that they could run a vin scan for me.  Please 
contact me directly if you do.  Thanks!

Later,
Nick


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 10:56:58 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: MORE 'D' BLUES

Lance and Group, I got called over to a shop here in Dallas that an 81 was
getting water in the oil and the car had an oily smell. After a couple of
hours looking, we found the block was cracked in the square pockets below
the internal water pipe. After it was all cleaned up, it was welded and
everything is ok. Big scare for the customer but cost under $100.00 to have
an aluminum welder come over. My question or statement is, did water fill up
the holes or pockets and freeze and that was what cracked the block.
Would it be prudent to fill the holes with silicone or something to prevent
water from standing.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Hill [mailto:skaife_hrt2001_at_dml_yahoo.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 12:24 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] MORE 'D' BLUES



Dear Lance,

In regard to you posting on your problem with the oil in the coolant, I
assume that it is your head that is carcked. I might be wrong.

If you want to be 100% sure what the prob is and how to fix it I strongly
recommend that you contact the Delorean Motor Compay in Houston, Texas USA
via www.delorean.com, they will be able to sort out your problem and help
with parts.

Kurt

Sydney Australia





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Personals
- New people, new possibilities. FREE for a limited time!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 12:16:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED

Hahaha, I'm sorry, I must have misread this. It sounded like you
were thinking of drilling into the frame of the car to add a cup holder.
:)

</sarcasm>

I have the clip-on cup holder and so far, it's the best solution. I don't
like that it hangs off the console, but it totally works... and looks
almost stock.

I'd thought a while ago (before the clip on cup holder came out) about
replacing the ashtray area with cup holders. After taking the console off,
I realized that there's simply no room there. Also, there are wiring
harneses that run all through that area.

-Christian

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003, videobob11 wrote:

> We have all seen that clip on cup holder for sale, ....
> but nothing beats the real thing.
> I have one built into my Ford Taurus that I think is the most
> awesome cup holder ever, it was one of the main descision makers
> in buying the car! I am sure I am not the first to pick a car based on
> the cup holder!
>
> I have an idea but I am not sure if it will fly.
> I need the advise of someone who is a lot more familiar with the
> console and frame of the D.
>
> My idea is to remove the top of the console and ashtray,
> and custom build a new one.
> The idea is to either drill into the actual frame with a hole saw
> and recess the cup holder down into it with a matching base.
> I have some friends who do composite plastics and fiberglass.
> I thought if I built this new console and wrap it in the same
> leather material.
>
> If is not structually sound to do this drilling, then we could
> make a mold that rises above the console instead.
>
> I would love to hear what people think of this idea or if anyone
> has ever done this.
>
> Of course, this is for a daily driver and not for you guys who
> want to collect the car.
> I like to live in my car.
>
> What could complete a nice day driving than a cool glass of tea?
> Eh?
>
> - Videobob
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 19:22:01 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Need assistance in Brooklyn, NY area

List,

I have purchased a rather bulky Delorean related item on ebay from a seller 
in the Brooklyn, NY area.  My problem is that the seller is unwilling or unable
to ship the item, so I need someone to pick up the item and either ship it for
me (I'll pay you for your time) or hold onto the item until I can make a trip to
the NY area to pick it up.  The item is not heavy, just a bit larger than most
pieces of Delorean memorabilia.  A pickup, mini-van, SUV or large car should
be able to do the job.  I need to pick it up ASAP, so please contact me off-list
if you think you would be able to assist me.

Thanks,
Rich W.





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