From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1753
Date: Friday, November 14, 2003 5:35 AM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Rear Louver Needed
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

2. Re: hot start no start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. First Checkup
From: "Kevin" <Fergy69er_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Gullwing Magazine/2004 Calendar answers...
From: "Marcel" <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>

5. Re: Starter Failed
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Volvo B27/B28 Starter Motor
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: MORE 'D' BLUES
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

9. Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Starter Failed
From: "Chuck Kay" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. Re: Re: New DeLorean owner; first technical question
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: George Barris
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. RE: RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:29:27 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Rear Louver Needed

What a coincidence. Last week I was at a nite club and came out to find some a-hole had walked across my front hood. No damage but his moron sized sneaker prints were all over the hood. 
Jim 6147

jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Well I am sad to say that some people just don't have respect for our cars.  I had mine parked on a side street and some _at_dml_sshole decided to try and walk over it.  I came back with a foot print on my front bumper, hood, top, and a foot through the rear louver.  That son of a b!tch.  Anyway, I was wondering if anyone here has one for sale or knows of where I can find one. 
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>VIN#15880
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:59:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hot start no start

There are many reasons why not every question gets a response. Some
pose very technical problems that most members of the list could not
help with. Others might just go unnoticed. Still others go unresponded
because the subject has been covered before or maybe everyone figures
someone else will answer.
 If you look at the manuals and the archives you will figure out that
to restart the car once it has warmed up you need to hold up the
"System Rest Pressure". This is done by having the fuel pump
pressurize the fuel accumulater. That pressure is held in by a check
valve in the fuel pump and a pressure regulator in the fuel
distributer. If you have replaced the fuel accumulater then the other
things to check are the check valve on the fuel pump and the pressure
regulater. If you have the older style fuel pump or it was changed and
doesn't have the check valve then start there. A fuel pressure gauge
set-up can help you diagnose this. If you can start the car when hot
by momentaraly putting the plug for the control pressure regulater on
the cold start valve then you know the system isn't holding the System
Rest Pressure up.
Remove whatever you have plugged into the hot start relay plug. The
check valve is replaceable without replacing the fuel pump. The
pressure regulator can be disassembled and cleaned (a piece of dirt
could be holding it open).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have what I thought to be a hot start problem.  Replaced the
accumulator
> that didn't solve it.  Replaced the fuel distributor and that didn't
solve
> it.  Checked out the fuel pump and it needed a new boot but that did not
> make a difference.  Tried the push button relay to activate cold
start valve
> and that did not allow the car to start (but did get a big gas smell
so the
> relay must have worked).  Asked for help in this forum and basically 




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 23:13:30 -0000
From: "Kevin" <Fergy69er_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: First Checkup

I do beleve im going to be buying a DeLorean at the start of next 
year and i was wonderning if anyone out there could tell me some bad 
things to look for b 4 buying... and 1 other thing i would like to 
know is if anyone knows a shop in the sacramento, CA area i could go 
to get a full checkup?




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:13:46 -0700
From: "Marcel" <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Gullwing Magazine/2004 Calendar answers...

Love your magazine.  Plenty of excellent articles on repairs and upgrades
Look forward to next issue
Marcel Bourgon
El Paso
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 9:35 AM
Subject: [DML] Gullwing Magazine/2004 Calendar answers...


> For everyone that's been asking, or anticipating when the next magazine
> issue will be out, we've been keeping with the quarterly schedule...
> February, May, August, so the next one will be out this month!
>
> Actually, we'll be ready to print this weekend, and they should all be
> shipped during the week.  I'd expect delivery around Thanksgiving or
> sooner, depending on where you live.
>
> The 2004 DeLorean calendar will be available soon.  They'll be printed
> and shipped right after all Gullwing Magazine orders go out this month.
> We'll post the order information just as soon as we know what the cost
> will be for the finished product.
>
> Please keep Gullwing merchandise in mind, gift subscriptions, and the
> 2004 DeLorean calendar for everyone on your Holiday shopping lists!
>
> (see subscription info below)
>
> Thank you,
> Ron and Cheryl Wester
>
> To subscribe to GULLWING Magazine, send check or money order to:
>
> GULLWING Magazine
> P.O. Box 991
> St. Peters, MO  63376
> USA
>
> or electronic fund transfers available using checking account or credit
> card via www.PayPal.com to gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com.
>
> The cost for the magazine is $48 US, $54 Canada, $66 Foreign.
>
> This will get you a one year subscription of four issues starting with
> the current issue #4.
> (Back issues are available at the back issue price of $16.75 US, $18.25
> Canada, $20.00 Foreign.)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Ron & Cheryl Wester
> gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:22:09 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Starter Failed

In a message dated 11/13/03 2:18:28 PM Central Standard Time, 
Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com writes:

>   Anyway they were able to rebuilt the starter in a day, cost my
> $100 Canadian (so like $70 US) including a new solenoid and drive gear.
> No muss, no fuss, and I have my "original" parts still in it.
> 
>   Autozone and the like are grocery stores for auto parts,  never
> hurts to go the the specialty markets for quality.
> 
> Mike
> Vin 17106

Agreed!  I had my starter overhauled at a local electrical shop and they 
refurbished it for about $60.  looks like new, but mine wasn't DOA when i took it 
there either.  just wanted it tidied up for the next 2 decades.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:18:49 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: idle flux / stall / pickup line?

In a message dated 11/12/03 8:39:02 PM Central Standard Time, 
ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> Am I correct in thinking that it is my fuel pickup line not allowing enough 
> fuel
> to flow? 
> Could it be something else?
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 

If you haven't replaced it ever, you should for peace of mind.  you could 
also hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if you are within specs or if it drops 
off when it tries to stall.  if the pump is buzzing now and then, a bad 
pickup line is my best guess also.  OR, the pump could be buzzing when the gas it 
is pumping is blocked further upstream (bad fuel filter, kinked metal line, 
dirt in a fuel distributor screen...).  i had similar pressure problems with my 
car until i replaced the pickup line.

good luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 03:05:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo B27/B28 Starter Motor

Just purchased spare B27 or B28 (still waiting for Martin G to ID).
Starter motor is on "driver" side (under cylinders 4-6). Would
interfere with DeLo exhaust system. Until I actually remove to
investigate shape don't if bullnose allows passenger side installation.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Yo EJ, I called that guy, and he says he won't part with the starter
- it 
> goes with the extra engine.
> But he also said you can use any old Volvo V-6 starter?
> He suggested getting one from a junkyard for about $20.00, he said
they last 
> forever.
> ...all except for yours of course!
> Maybe someone can clarify the cross-reference?
> - VB
> 
> 
> [moderator snip]
> >
> >Hello All:
> >
> >My starter recently failed. Was able to get this confirmed when I
> >pulled it out and took it down to Autozone and they verified this
> >with their testing equipment.
> >
> >Now I am in need of a replacement. I didnt know where the best place
> >I could find a replacement would be. Ironically DeLoreans are not in
> >Autozone's database. I wasnt sure if there was a cross reference part
> >for the starter of would be best to order one from a parts dealer?
> >
> >Has anyone been through this situation and had to replace the
> >starter? I know the starter is supposed to be a reliable part that
> >does not break, but when it rains it pours it seems.
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any responses.
> >E.j.
> >Vin 4475




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:17:00 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: MORE 'D' BLUES

I know of a car that high temperature silicone was used to fill in the 
holes (after cleaning them of course). Smelled like silicone for a 
number of weeks until it finished drying but has worked well so far. In 
my opinion, something should be done to clean and plug the holes, 
otherwise you could easily be asking for trouble later.

Samuel

John Hervey wrote:

>Lance and Group, I got called over to a shop here in Dallas that an 81 was
>getting water in the oil and the car had an oily smell. After a couple of
>hours looking, we found the block was cracked in the square pockets below
>the internal water pipe. After it was all cleaned up, it was welded and
>everything is ok. Big scare for the customer but cost under $100.00 to have
>an aluminum welder come over. My question or statement is, did water fill up
>the holes or pockets and freeze and that was what cracked the block.
>Would it be prudent to fill the holes with silicone or something to prevent
>water from standing.
>John Hervey
>www.specialtauto.com
>
>  
>




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 03:20:56 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?

I have seen a few photos of a headlight conversion to replace the dual
sealed beam lights with a single modern lights that fills the full gap.
(not to be confused with headlight covers or screens)
Can anyone tell me what type of lights will fit and how tough it is to
install?
Thanks.
- VB

PS- I have mentioned that I do not yet own a D, but I looked at one
today (but did not drive it) that is in AUTOMATIC.
I would prefer an auto but have heard they are not favorable.
Can anyone tell me the pro's or cons of an automatic?
Anything I should keep an eye out for to avoid?
This car is in perfect shape and I really want it, but
if it is worth it to wait for a manual I might....
- VB





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:11:33 -0500
From: "Chuck Kay" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Starter Failed

E.J.
	I bought a master clutch cylinder from Auto Parts Giant about 6 months ago.
They have a listing for the Delorean.  Their starter is 187.08 with free
shipping. http://www.autopartsgiant.com

			Chuck vin 10610

-----Original Message-----
From: EJ Chambers [mailto:marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 10:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Starter Failed


Hello All:

My starter recently failed. Was able to get this confirmed when I
pulled it out and took it down to Autozone and they verified this
with their testing equipment.

Now I am in need of a replacement. I didnt know where the best place
I could find a replacement would be. Ironically DeLoreans are not in
Autozone's database. I wasnt sure if there was a cross reference part
for the starter of would be best to order one from a parts dealer?

Has anyone been through this situation and had to replace the
starter? I know the starter is supposed to be a reliable part that
does not break, but when it rains it pours it seems.

Thanks in advance for any responses.
E.j.
Vin 4475



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 23:43:08 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: New DeLorean owner; first technical question

In a message dated 11/13/2003 4:56:20 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

My main question:
When she fires up, and she fires RIGHT up, if we put any pressure on her
accelerator she will die immediately.  Repeat this process about 5-7 times 
and
she will finally run stable
Try the warm up regulator


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:47:11 -0700
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: George Barris

I went out today and got a copy of the magazine, to get the actual article.  
Here it is, word for word!

MAXIM GOES TO THE MOVIES
Pg. 92 - by Clark Collis (with George Barris)

BACK TO THE FUTURE DELOREAN
"I worked with John DeLorean on the actual car and then he got into his 
little... problems. (In 1982, the auto magnate was arrested for allegedly 
attempting to import cocaine - he was later aquitted.) We built the cars 
that were used for publicity. There's a lot of gimmicky things stuck on.  
People say, 'What's that for?'  I say, your guess is better than mine.  I've 
never been into the future."

Barris is actually a pretty smart guy, the way he can get away with saying 
these sort of things.  After reading the article again, he never said that 
he built the BTTF DMC for the movie, but say's he built the cars that were 
used for publicity.

But the whole story about him working with J.Z.D. on the actual car... 
what's that about?

Randy Atamaniuk
Vin #16353 - Randy_at_dml_BTTF.com

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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:04:24 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?

If your alternator is dropping low enough in voltage to turn on the battery,
then that's to low. At that level you can go below battery voltage and the
car can die, and the FP will slow down to a crawl, lights will dim and fan's
will slow down. I would increase the idle to 900 RPM's no matter what
alternator your running and see what happens. Also, turn off any major
current draw items such as the cooling fans and the blower motor and lights
and see what happens. But, either the alternator could have a bad regulator,
but most likely it's not because it works fine with a little more RPM's .
This is why we turn a smaller pulley for our alternators to raise the TOV
( Turn on voltage ) at lower RPM's.The cars really need to be idling at
about 900 RPM's to generate a little voltage and current and be at TOV or
above..
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Yocom [mailto:ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 12:34 PM
To: DMC - DML News Post'n
Subject: [DML] RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?


No battery light unless it actually stalls. Mostly it just does the
drop/rev/flicker bit.

I still havent installed your new fuel tank baffle assemby. I guess that's
next
on  my list of "to-dos" unless my problem is something else besides a faulty
pickup line.

Shannon Y
16506

------


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 20:29:51 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?

Shannon, What is happening to the electrical side when this happens. The
fuel pump is an electric motor. When Your idling and the voltage drops the
fuel pump will slow down and your fuel pressure will drop and go down also.
It may look like a pump/fuel problem, but you said it was ok when you race
up the engine a little. Then voltage also goes up from the alternator and
your ok. Is the battery light coming on. If so then the voltage is dropping
so low the car thinks you have shut it off.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

>>snip<<

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