From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1754
Date: Saturday, November 15, 2003 4:43 AM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: First Checkup
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. [OT] Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED
From: "jonheese" <heese_at_dml_digi-net.com>

3. Re: Re: NEC show this weekend past
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. RE: First Checkup
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

5. Re: [OT] Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Idling at 900 RPM
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

8. RE: Re: Idling at 900 RPM
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. How to sell a Delorean?
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

10. Re: Idling at 900 RPM
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Just got the New DCS Magazine--WOW
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

12. idle yet again
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 05:22:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: First Checkup

Some of the more expensive things to look for are the things "under
the surface" so to speak. Check the frame for rust, any parts on the
suspension that look bent, the wiring for being "hacked up" the engine
compartment for "wrong" non-Delorean parts, the brake and clutch fluid
(if thick and dark it means you will be rebuilding soon) even wear on
tires (nothing bent or out of alignment if even) coolant leaks
(radiator and water pump) dents or dings in the S/S, the doors open
and close evenly and smoothly, no cracked, scratched, broken glass,
motor should start easily and run smoothly. Some missing parts can be
expensive to replace. Try to look over the service history or repair
bills to see how it was cared for. Even if some things don't work some
are easily fixed and not expensive. Cosmetic issues can be done but
some things are expensive like the seats, dash, and headliners. Check
the motor oil and the type of oil filter (it should be a blue perflex)
if it isn't it gives an indication of the type of care the car was
given. A Delorean vender would only use a Perflex filter. Check the
air in the tires, it gives a sense of how the owner treated the car.
The pressures are on a label on the glove box door. There is a shop in
Garden Grove, Ca. If you go to the vender websites you can find an
inspection sheet you can use to evaluate a Delorean. Go over the title
paperwork very carefully. There MUST NOT be any disceptancies between
the vin #'s on the car and the title. Sometimes a carfax report is
useful. You can also call the Delorean vender the P.O. took the car to
and ask about the car's history (if they took it to a "D" shop). Find
a local owner and ask if they would help look the car over for you,
they might point out things you would not notice.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <Fergy69er_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I do beleve im going to be buying a DeLorean at the start of next 
> year and i was wonderning if anyone out there could tell me some bad 
> things to look for b 4 buying... and 1 other thing i would like to 
> know is if anyone knows a shop in the sacramento, CA area i could go 
> to get a full checkup?




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 05:30:10 -0000
From: "jonheese" <heese_at_dml_digi-net.com>
Subject: [OT] Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED

Wayne, I think Bob either has a Gen3 or Gen4 (1996-2004) Taurus or 
the LX or SHO model of the Gen1/2 Taurus.  He's describing the 
cupholder in the center console of these models and it sounds like 
you have the pop-out type under the radio found in most Gen1's and 
Gen2's (1986-1995).  Just to eliminate any confusion. =)

Jon
1995 Taurus GL

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 11/13/03 7:50:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> videobob_at_dml_h... writes:
> 
> 
> > One quick stop or turn and SPLASH!
> > I have never spilled a drink in my Taurus.
> 
> Must be different than the drink holder in our Taurus wagon, "for 
soft cups 
> only." Hit a bump and the flimsy little loop hiccups and drops a 
can thru to 
> the floor. In my D, I lift out the ashtray and just twist it in. No 
probs so 
> far.
> Wayne 
> 11174
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:15:21 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: NEC show this weekend past

I won't repeat what Paul Salsbury has already written - he's spot on in 
everything - but want to add a few comments. The NEC show is our biggest 
advert for the DOC each year. The cars that go on the stand are chosen 
simply by whose turn it is. I had my first car on the stand last year. 
This year it was time for someone else. All cars had dents and dings all 
over them did they? You obviously didn't pay much attention to the grey 
interior car as it had _one_ small dent, and apart from that is simply 
in need of re-brushing, which the owner has already booked in with us, 
as well as getting that dent removed.

The car with all the parts under the bonnet is my friend and business 
partner's. He bought it for less than $6000. It's now one of the fastest 
DeLoreans in the country (nobody really knows why, it just goes like 
stink, we've assisted by changing a few parts over, and it's now EVEN 
faster). We had our stainless expert, Chris Nicholson on hand on 
Saturday going over all the cars pricing up the work that would be 
required to fix them.

All in all, it's not just an advert for the car, but the work the club 
does, and in that, having cars that aren't 100%, but will be one day 
thanks to the dillegence of their owners, is all part of owning a 
classic car.

Project cars are far more desirable here in Enland due to the cost of 
parts and limited choice of cars

Martin
DMUK
www.delorean.co.uk

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "grimsby_paul" <grimsby_paul_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>  
>
>>I went to the show in Birmingham this past weekend to see my first 
>>DeLorean in person - while it was a thrill to see 3 of them in one 
>>place, I was a little disappointed in their presentation. One had a 
>>shattered back window, all the cars had dents and dings all over 
>>them, and tatty interiors. Not outstanding examples of the marque by 
>>any stretch of the imagination! Is that all that we've got here? I 
>>spoke with one youngish person selling parts from the "boot" of a 
>>DeLorean there and was led to believe that these were fine examples 
>>    
>>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:46:51 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: First Checkup

You sure are lucky.

Right near Sacramento you have Ken Montgomery of the Northern California
DMC.

Check out http://www.ncdmc.org/ for more information.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin [mailto:Fergy69er_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 5:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] First Checkup


I do beleve im going to be buying a DeLorean at the start of next 
year and i was wonderning if anyone out there could tell me some bad 
things to look for b 4 buying... and 1 other thing i would like to 
know is if anyone knows a shop in the sacramento, CA area i could go 
to get a full checkup?




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:52:09 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [OT] Re: Cup Holder - ADVANCED

That's right, it's a 98 Wagon SE with the center console (not the flip over 
arm rest).
It is a deep tapered hole.
I have had 4 of these cars through the years, my 94 had a flymsie little pop 
out cup holder
right in front of the dash. Dumbest design ever.
Not only did your drink block the controls but it got splashed from the 
drink!

The whole point of this who thread was that those little wire frame cup 
holders suck.
They hold cans, maybe bottles, but they are not good for the REAL drinks....
like a BIG GULP or a large drink from the drive though.

I live in my car, I eat there, drink there....hell, if I could figure out a 
way to put
hatch and a hose.....I wouldn't stop for a restroom!!!!!
- VB


>Wayne, I think Bob either has a Gen3 or Gen4 (1996-2004) Taurus or
>the LX or SHO model of the Gen1/2 Taurus.  He's describing the
>cupholder in the center console of these models and it sounds like
>you have the pop-out type under the radio found in most Gen1's and
>Gen2's (1986-1995).  Just to eliminate any confusion. =)
>
>Jon
>1995 Taurus GL

_________________________________________________________________
Compare high-speed Internet plans, starting at $26.95.  
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:21:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Idling at 900 RPM

900 RPM is Volvo idle spec for B27 and B28. 

Wonder if DeLo lowered for US emissions?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> If your alternator is dropping low enough in voltage to turn on the
battery,
> then that's to low. At that level you can go below battery voltage
and the
> car can die, and the FP will slow down to a crawl, lights will dim
and fan's
> will slow down. I would increase the idle to 900 RPM's no matter what
> alternator your running and see what happens. Also, turn off any major
> current draw items such as the cooling fans and the blower motor and
lights
> and see what happens. But, either the alternator could have a bad
regulator,
> but most likely it's not because it works fine with a little more
RPM's .
> This is why we turn a smaller pulley for our alternators to raise
the TOV
> ( Turn on voltage ) at lower RPM's.The cars really need to be idling at
> about 900 RPM's to generate a little voltage and current and be at
TOV or
> above..
> John Hervey
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannon Yocom [mailto:ssdelorean_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 12:34 PM
> To: DMC - DML News Post'n
> Subject: [DML] RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
> 
> 
> No battery light unless it actually stalls. Mostly it just does the
> drop/rev/flicker bit.
> 
> I still havent installed your new fuel tank baffle assemby. I guess
that's
> next
> on  my list of "to-dos" unless my problem is something else besides
a faulty
> pickup line.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
> ------
> 
> Message: 21
>    Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 20:29:51 -0800
>    From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...>
> Subject: RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
> 
> Shannon, What is happening to the electrical side when this happens. The
> fuel pump is an electric motor. When Your idling and the voltage
drops the
> fuel pump will slow down and your fuel pressure will drop and go
down also.
> It may look like a pump/fuel problem, but you said it was ok when
you race
> up the engine a little. Then voltage also goes up from the
alternator and
> your ok. Is the battery light coming on. If so then the voltage is
dropping
> so low the car thinks you have shut it off.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> >>snip<<
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 11:15:18 +1100 (EST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?

I have an automatic car and can't understand how they
have managed to get such a bum rap.I originally wanted
a five speed too but had the oppurtunity to buy a near
perfect DeLorean with an auto that was too good to
pass up.
They do however have some problems with the computer
governers failing.Mine did.But like most things on the
car this can be easily repaired or an updated version
bought from some members of this list.
If you are interested in buying an Auto D I suggest
you drive it to make sure it shifts correctly in Drive
but also works in the 1st and 2nd gear positions.Also
check the trans oil level and condition (preferably
when the car is hot).The dipstick is red and is in the
back left corner.If the oil is dark or smells burnt
that could be bad.Also check for leaks.People overfill
them.
But if you make regular oil changes and look after it
the Auto trans should add to alot to your driving
experience especially in stop and start traffic.Your
left leg certainly won't get sore!

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia

http://personals.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Personals
New people, new possibilities. FREE for a limited time.



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:34:25 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Idling at 900 RPM

Even the Delorean book say's raise it to 900 to do a test.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 10:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Idling at 900 RPM


900 RPM is Volvo idle spec for B27 and B28.

Wonder if DeLo lowered for US emissions?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> If your alternator is dropping low enough in voltage to turn on the
battery,
> then that's to low. At that level you can go below battery voltage
and the
> car can die, and the FP will slow down to a crawl, lights will dim
and fan's
> will slow down. I would increase the idle to 900 RPM's no matter what
> alternator your running and see what happens. Also, turn off any major
> current draw items such as the cooling fans and the blower motor and
lights
> and see what happens. But, either the alternator could have a bad
regulator,
> but most likely it's not because it works fine with a little more
RPM's .
> This is why we turn a smaller pulley for our alternators to raise
the TOV
> ( Turn on voltage ) at lower RPM's.The cars really need to be idling at
> about 900 RPM's to generate a little voltage and current and be at
TOV or
> above..
> John Hervey
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannon Yocom [mailto:ssdelorean_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 12:34 PM
> To: DMC - DML News Post'n
> Subject: [DML] RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
>
>
> No battery light unless it actually stalls. Mostly it just does the
> drop/rev/flicker bit.
>
> I still havent installed your new fuel tank baffle assemby. I guess
that's
> next
> on  my list of "to-dos" unless my problem is something else besides
a faulty
> pickup line.
>
> Shannon Y
> 16506
>
> ------
>
> Message: 21
>    Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 20:29:51 -0800
>    From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...>
> Subject: RE: idle flux / stall / pickup line?
>
> Shannon, What is happening to the electrical side when this happens. The
> fuel pump is an electric motor. When Your idling and the voltage
drops the
> fuel pump will slow down and your fuel pressure will drop and go
down also.
> It may look like a pump/fuel problem, but you said it was ok when
you race
> up the engine a little. Then voltage also goes up from the
alternator and
> your ok. Is the battery light coming on. If so then the voltage is
dropping
> so low the car thinks you have shut it off.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>
> >>snip<<
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:02:55 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: How to sell a Delorean?

Hey guys, I am curious I have been trying to sell my car though collector car trader and now hemmings and have very little interest. my price is not out of line and I would be willing to deal. I have been trying for months. I have never had this much trouble selling a collector car. How do I sell this thing?

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 01:37:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idling at 900 RPM

Just guessing on this but not only was the idle set low for emmisions,
it also makes it easier to shift into 1st gear (and is easier on the
torque converter on an automatic). This was probably done because the
gear ratios are different in the Delorean than other applications. The
low idle speed does cause a problem with running too much electrical
load at idle. For instance at night with the lights on, the A/C
running and the cooling fans, it is too much. The quick and dirty
work-around would be to change the pulley on the alternator to a
smaller one so it turns faster at the lower idle speed. The problem
with that is you are going over the safe RPM limit when you rev the
motor up. This usually isn't a problem, there is enough of a safety
factor built in but you are pushing the upper limit and probably will
wear the brushes and bearings out a little faster. The problem is
compounded if you have an old battery, it can't handle the short
periods when idling in traffic so the motor could die if the voltage
drops too low.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 900 RPM is Volvo idle spec for B27 and B28. 
> 
> Wonder if DeLo lowered for US emissions?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > If your alternator is dropping low enough in voltage to turn on the
> battery,
> > then that's to low. At that level you can go below battery voltage
> and the





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:44:55 EST
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Just got the New DCS Magazine--WOW

All of you DCS subscribers are in for an awesome issue.   I thought the last 
issue was good, but this one is GREAT!   It is bigger than the last issue and 
is packed with TONS of pictures.   It has everything from a legend twin turbo 
article, a Monster Garage explanation, some new vendors, modification/fix 
tips, and even a letter from a Back to the Future star planning to attend Pigeon 
Forge (can you stand the suspense?)   It has much more than this, but I don't 
want to ruin it for any of you.   If you are one of the sorry few who does not 
subscribe to this unbelievable magazine, you should today.   This issue looks 
professional enough to sell at any bookstore.   Great job Ken and Josh--this 
one is a winner.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:24:22 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: idle yet again

Ok- high idle question for the list yet again.

I've check the linkage and it seems ok; the cable could be sticky but I
think there is probably something else going on.
I've adjusted the two micro-switch screws so that the stop screw doesn't
contact at all and the switch is getting depressed, but yet I've still
pushed on it and it has changed idle slightly. I've pushed harder on the
throttle linkage arm and actually had the car die on me. I thought that was
weird.

I turned the ignition on without starting the car and the idle speed
regulator was buzzing pretty darn loud. How loud should it be? I can't
remember it being that loud before. Not sure if the
right-side-angry-hornet-frequency valve is buzzing because it's so loud.

I do have a vacuum leak under the throttle plates area... I replaced o-rings
about a month ago and it's been squealing at me ever since but the high-idle
problem is new the last couple of weeks. I think it is one of the washers on
the allen-head bolts.
I'm going to deal with that sucker first, if I can.

Input appreciated.

-Kevin
#4687




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