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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1784
Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 4:22 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: sandblasting
From: "John Hervey" <>

2. Very basic question about SS clutch line replacement
From: "supermattthehero" <>

3. Re: Spark Advance During Cold Start
From: "content22207" <>

4. Re: sandblasting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

5. VIN 10115 Update
From: Louie Golden <>

6. Re: Where to check for water leaks into the car?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

7. Delorean seen in FHM!
From: "Robert Moseley" <>

8. Speedometer Recalibration
From: "Robert Moseley" <>

9. Holiday cards
From: James Espey <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:20:10 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: sandblasting

Mike, I have all the sand blasting equipment. What do you need done.
They would need to be sealed after you do it or the aluminum may oxidize

-----Original Message-----
From: []
Subject: [DML] sandblasting

After seeing a few of the coolant pipes on ebay that have been sandblasted I
was wondering how much is involved to actually do this yourself? Is there a
tool or sandblasting system you can buy retail to do this yourself?


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 08:16:29 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <>
Subject: Very basic question about SS clutch line replacement

I recently purchased the SS clutch line and while reading through 
the archives I thought of something. 

Now, keep in mind, my car is 350 miles away from me right, now so it 
brings me satisfaction to read about it when I can't be working on 
it.  The downside is that I can't walk into my garage and do an 
inspection when I think of something.  

So here goes...  It was my understanding that the clutch line 
connects from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, and that 
the slave cylinder can only be accessed while the transaxle is out.  
Does this mean to replace the old plastic clutch line, the transaxle 
must come out???  The slave cylinder on my car was replaced just 
prior to my ownership so I'm not concerned about it at this time.  

On a related note, the drain plug bolt on the bottom driver-side of 
my transaxle looks 'moist.'  There is no puddle formed, even after 
sitting in the same place for 4 months, but it has a wet look to 
it.  What could this mean?  The liquid feels oily and clear color.  

thanks as always!



Message: 3
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 14:47:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Spark Advance During Cold Start

Actually you don't want any spark advance when cranking. Makes car
harder to start.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> What exactly are your symptoms? Assuming you are trying to start the
> car from a cold start and it starts normally when warm you should
> check all the systems that are activated when the motor is cold. That
> includes the vacuum advance system for the ignition and the cold start
> valve. 


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 15:14:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: sandblasting

What you are asking for requires a large investment in an air
compressor, floor space, money, and a blasting cabinet. Look in
Eastwood or T.I.P. for it. An alternative for the less serious user
would be an electric drill and a wire brush. Or you could find someone
locally to bring the parts to, to have blasted. Look in a Hemmings
Motor News also under "Services" for people who do this kind of work
or "Parts and Supplies" for the tools to do it yourself. It is a very
messy job without a blast cabinet and some parts will be too large for
most cabinets (like rims). The larger the cabinet the more expensive
of course. If you do blast parts they must be quickly primed or
painted or they will corrode so you will also need painting equipment.
Aluminum less so than steel but if you want to prevent corrosion you
have to do something. You can also find used equipment at car shows or
on E-Bay. When you add up what this will cost you, you will discover
that unless you have a lot of work to do it doesn't make sense to do
it yourself.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> After seeing a few of the coolant pipes on ebay that have been
sandblasted I was wondering how much is involved to actually do this
yourself? Is there a tool or sandblasting system you can buy retail to
do this yourself? As part of our ongoing  restorations of these cars
it would be nice to clean and sandblast parts as we need to make
> Mike C


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 08:08:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <>
Subject: VIN 10115 Update

Hey Group,

As promised I called the new owner of my wrecked VIN 10115 to see what his plans for the car were. I mentioned before that the car went to a body shop in China Grove, NC. It turns out the buyer was in fact a DeLorean owner already. He bought #10115 to be a guinea pig for a Corvette LS1 conversion he wants to do to his DeLorean. We both plan on keeping in contact, and I'm going to try and get him to go to Pigeon Forge next year.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 15:26:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Where to check for water leaks into the car?

There was a service bulletin issued by DMC on sealing body leaks. You
can buy it from the Delorean venders. I don't know if it is sold
separately but it comes in a book of all the service bulletins and
recalls. It has also been reprinted in some of the Delorean magazines
from time to time if you can get your hands on one. I think it was in
an old DW. If your inertia switch was by the gas pedal make sure it
has a splotch of white paint on it. If it doesn't, get the updated one
and mount it on the side near the bonnet release as per the recall.
Remove the carpets, dry them thoughly and use something with a
mildewcide in it so you don't get mold growing under the carpet. When
you get that much water in a car and you park it in the sun on a hot
day the windows will fog up from all of the moisture so dry it out
completely. You might consider a good car cover if you leave it out in
the rain again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey All.
> I took my D on its first long trip over Thanksgiving (longest trip
since I have owned it).  It rained for a full day on the car in the
parking lot, and when I went out to check on it after 10 hours of
constant drizzle, I reached and felt under the carpet where your feet
go and it was SOAKED underneath.  This was on the passenger side and
the driver's side.  I could see standing water next to the seats when
I lifted the carpet up.  Frantic, I stole all the towels I could find
and mopped the water out every 3 hours.  When I got home I used a
garden hose and found that water was leaking where the old inertia
switch used 


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:09:21 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <>
Subject: Delorean seen in FHM!

For those of you who collect every Delorean related article,
this months FHM features "McFly's Ride" on page 60.
It is advertising some video game or something.
Thought I would mention it.

If you haven't checked out FHM you should get it,
it is an AWESOME magazine.
For those of you who get it already,
VIDA can ride in my D anytime!

- Videobob
VIN# 5278


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:23:23 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <>
Subject: Speedometer Recalibration

Has anyone here ever done a speedometer recalibration?

I had called a few places that we all know to check on having my
speedo recalibrated to match up with one of those cool new Indiglo
dashes that DART sells, but everyone wanted what seemed to be to me a
lot of money
and the worst part was a 2 week wait plus shipping time!
This is not good for me since my car is a daily driver.

I searched the net for "speedometer recalibration" and found lots of
places that do it, for about $65 or so.

The main question they asked was,
Q: What make is the speedo? Is it a GM?
Q: Does it have a SQUARE magnet or a round one?
Q: Does it use a calibration spring?

If anyone knows the answers to this, or has a speedo handy that
they can inspect and let me know it would help.
I am just trying to find out before I pull my dash apart.

The guys I am talking to ar ein Dallas,
Hopefully they can do the job and save me $300!!!

- VB


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 13:26:30 -0600
From: James Espey <>
Subject: Holiday cards

The correct size envelope cards for the holiday cards is an A7 (5.25 x 
7.25) - usually can be found from a "printer's supply" company like 
PaperPlus, Xpedx, O-K Paper Center. One year I has some success buying 
some cheap xmas cards with the right size envelopes and throwing the 
cards away.



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