From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1802
Date: Monday, December 22, 2003 6:02 AM

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. 1983 DeLorean radio ASI?
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com

2. Carbon Fiber Clutch
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com

3. Re: Mike's Re-Engineered Trailing Arms
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. No longer a DMC owner(but I'll be back)
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Re: Battery cut-off switches?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: winter storage question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: PRV oil distribution problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:45:12 EST
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: 1983 DeLorean radio ASI?


Is the 83 DeLorean radio an ASI?
Is it still available new?

Does anyone want to sell one?

Sincerely,
Michael



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:46:13 EST
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Carbon Fiber Clutch


Is there a carbon fiber clutch available for the DeLorean?

Sincerely,
Michael



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 02:57:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Mike's Re-Engineered Trailing Arms

It's also clear one of the joys of your ownership is re-engineering
trailing arm attachment (even if only on paper). That's admirably
cool. But I'm afraid it also puts you in a rather elite minority --
most other owners are not engineers.

Inconel bolts are good solution for the rest of us.

Each owner puts into car what interests him or her most. Some have
world class sound systems. Others are meticulously kept factory
original. List goes on (Rick Gendreau re-engineered car from the frame
up). Unless another person co-signed the purchase loan or is otherwise
enabling ownership, owner should be free to do whatever.

Unfortunately speech is free too, so others WILL comment...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hello List,
>  Video Bob is right about this thread. I'm sorry if I'm scaring 
> people about the rear suspension bolts. There are a small hand few 
> of people that do worry about this issue or want improvements in 
> this area. I was speaking more to them. These people are the ones 
> who purchased the Toby bolts, or installed the Bauerle Bracket, and 
> have or want the Pearce Chassis for RIDE improvements. I was also 
> trying to make aware that people should not attempt to do certain 
> mods like the Bauerle Bracket. But for those who want to do mods the 
> ones that I suggested and what Pearce has designed are the safer 
> ones.
> But again I would not recommend to anyone attempt these.
> 
>   I'm aware of the other companies selling bolts. I neglected to 
> mention them because I don't no the specification and the people on 
> this list are more knowledgeable about Toby's bolts.
> Bill Robertson is also correct in his post. Those of you that are 
> worried about the bolts and price inspect them often or purchased an 
> upgraded bolt from your favorite supplier. Anything is better then 
> the original OEM.
>   
>   I never heard of any crash related accident caused by this bolt. I 
> still have my OEM bolts installed and I'm sure they are bent. I 
> figure if they have lasted this long they did what they were 
> designed to do (even if it was a poor design). I never mention in my 
> post that the OEM bolts were a safety hazard or will cause an 
> accident. But for my taste a bent bolt is not a good thing to have. 
> When I get time I will do mods to my suspension like I claimed in my 
> previous post. 
> For me this is an easy job because I'm a fabricator and I'm 
> surrounded by people who can give me expert advice. But I will do it 
> not because I'm afraid of the bolt snapping. It's for reducing the 
> bending of the bolt and RIDE handling. 
> 
> Just like the LHS torsion bar or LHS fender. When people hear that 
> supplies are low, panic mode starts. Or when people say on this list 
> I'm doing a short run of something, this also causes the panic mode. 
> Everyone be safe, don't worry, and Happy Holidays.
> 
> Regards,
> Mike




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:00:34 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: No longer a DMC owner(but I'll be back)

Being a long time DMLer,I regret to inform the group(I was the one 
with "the Huge Delorean Lot " auction on Ebay).That after 22 years of 
Delorean ownership of Multipal Deloreans,will now be without any 
Delorean(It will feel totally weird when all my Deloreans part from 
me)But(the group will still have to deal with me!!)But sometime in 
the future I WILL be buying another Delorean,So whoever you are,out 
there YOU BETTER be taking EXCELLENT care of my future Delorean. ; ) 
Anyways I do want to attend future Delorean meetings/get-
togethers,BUT I will not have a Delorean to bring,but if the 
group,does not mind,if I happen to show up in one of my 
Bricklins,Since I always thought that the two cars should go hand in 
hand.If not I will still go, but either fly,or drive in my everyday 
car.Thanks and soon hoping to meet some faces from this DML.

Claude
00570
soon to be
Vin# 00000




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:39:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Battery cut-off switches?

I use a battery master switch, but I use it more for when I go to car
shows and cruise nights so I can leave the doors open and not worry
about the lights killing the battery. It is bad for the battery to
constantly kill it and charge it. This is called deep cycling and it
shortens the battery's life sigificantly. It is even worse in cold
weather because a dead battery can freeze and warp the plates inside
ruining the battery. In storage the battery should be removed and kept
in a warm place on a piece of wood and trickle charged once a month
for 1 day. BTW if you use a battery master switch unless you bypass it
for the radio you will always lose the time and the preset stations.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Does anyone use them on their cars? If so what type and from where. 
> I take my car out infrequently and almost always have to boost it.




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:45:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: winter storage question

The "best" way to prepare the fuel system in the car for storage is to
remove the fuel. It is not that difficult. Remove the curved access
panel under the spare tire, loosen the hose clamp around the fuel pump
boot and lift the pump boot and all out of the tank. Now just siphon
or vacuum the fuel out. Inspect for any water or dirt and reassemble
making sure not to turn the pump and boot (replace in the origional
position). IMHO this IS the best way because if for some reason winter
storage becomes long term storage (it happens) then the fuel isn't
there to go bad. Also in the Spring (or whenever) now you are starting
up with clean fresh fuel without the stabalizer (which lowers octane,
bet you didn't know that!).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Is there any kind of fuel additive that can be put into the gas tank 
> to prevent any "sludging up" etc... ive retired my car to the garage 
> until spring and am concerned about the fuel system....thanx guys




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:58:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: PRV oil distribution problems

I didn't say to flush the coolant but it is a good idea to do that
every 2 years too when you flush the brake fluid. If you are
envirnmentally sensitive you could have the coolant tested. As long as
it is not acidic and has enough ethylene glycol to keep the boiling
point and freezing point correct you can get by with just putting in
an additive to replace the worn out additive package. The additives do
the following, inhibit corrosion, reduce foaming, lubricate the water
pump seal, and seal minor leaks. You can find the additives in most
auto stores. Some repair shops have a nifty gizmo that flushes out the
coolant, filters it, treats it, and reinstalls it. A bit of overkill.
It is cheaper to just remove the old stuff (dispose of properly, not
down the sink!) flush the system with soft water, and then refill with
50/50 soft water and a premium brand of anti-freeze. Don't forget to
bleed all the air out.
 Read the owner's manual, in it you will find the reference to flush
the brake system every 2 years. Good advice for the clutch on a
5-speed too. It seems that ALL British cars like to have their brakes
flushed every 2 years. I never find it necesary on an American car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve Abbott" <abbotts_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> >> ... every other year you MUST also flush the brake fluid. Doing 
> this
> > and yor PRV will last a very long time.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> 
> 
> David
> 
> Did you mean "flush the coolant"?   The PRV's seem to be particularly 
> prone to rot if regular coolant changes are neglected. Flushing the 
> brake fluid every couple of years is a darn good idea too though :) 
> Cheers
> Steve Abbott




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