From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1807
Date: Thursday, December 25, 2003 10:16 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: idle revisited
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: idle revisited
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. DeLorean SPOILER
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Places to put stuff?
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: HOWTO: Side repeater
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Black Side Stripes
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Interesting problem with battery.
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto
From: "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. AW: idle revisited
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. VH1 promo with Delorean
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

11. A holiday toast
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

12. Re: idle revisited
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. engine cover paint
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

14. Re: idle revisited
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>

15. Re: New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. eagle premier engine
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Delolrean grout on DIY channel
From: DBoboc9556_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: idle revisited
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>

19. New coolant bottle/bleeding question
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

20. Re: Interesting problem with battery.
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Interesting problem with battery.
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: idle revisited [Mode Switch]
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Merry Christmas!!!
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: 1:24 scale DeLorean Models
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

25. Re: idle revisited [Mode Switch]
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 04:54:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: idle revisited

If the car is running rich at idle then you have vacuum leaks and/or
your mixture adjustment is off. You might also have dirty fuel
injectors. Check the plug over the mixture screw to make sure it is
still there and is sealing the opening. If the car's behaviour changes
like throwing a switch then I am still thinking that something is not
right in the advance circuit, maybe some hoses are not connected
correctly and when the themostatic valve heats up it is advancing the
timing. Vacuum leaks can be hard to find and can make the car act
weird. On 1 car I worked on it cycled like it was hunting. I didn't
completely correct it but it behaved a lot better after getting the
"O" ring on the air tube for the idle motor sealed right! I really
thought  it WAS the idle ECU till I tried it with a known good one and
it didn't make ANY difference! In most cases to REALLY make the motor
run like it was meant to means taking the top off and fixing something
left behind by a previous mechanic. Even with the best mechanic
sometimes an "O" ring can slip out of place when reassembling the
intake. It is not easy to put it back and if you slide it in an "O"
ring can move without noticeing it. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Of course I remember my last DeLorean ran on a manual idle speed
circuit Bill. The car actually ran much better that way. I am going to
go and buy some vacuum caps and cap off the idle speed motor and see
if my idle problem goes away when the idle speed motor is
non-functional. However the idle speed motor does buzz with the
ignition on, so I think it's OK. I can try running a manual idle
circuit for a while, but don't want to keep the car that way
permanently. The more things I change from stock on the car, the less
someone down the road who works on the car will understand how it
operates. I don't plan on ever selling the car, but I may have someone
else work on it eventually, and I'm also not going to be around
permanently either. Someone will inherit the car one day. I try to
look to the future with these cars...
> 
> I've been told before that the DeLorean O2 sensor does nothing until
about 300 degrees. Why then is it so common for people to diagnose a
car that hunts at idle to have a defective O2 sensor? Or is it only
when the car hunts when *WARM* that the O2 sensor is bad? So would a
vacuum leak cause hunting when cold, and high idle when warm then?
> 
> Just to reiterate my car's behavior, when the engine is VERY cold
(when it has been sitting overnight), it does hunt for about a minute,
then the idle smoothes out to about 800 rpms and stays that way for
several minutes until the engine gets warmer. Then something changes
the idle speed- the car jumps from idling perfectly at 800 rpms to
idling at 1500 rpms. It's literally like the flipping a switch. If I
go out and drive the car after this, the idle will get stuck at about
2000 rpms now. The idle speed has progressively gotten higher since
I've owned the car. These symptoms don't sound like a vacuum leak to
me... it sounds like something electronic... though I could be wrong. I'm 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 06:10:02 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: idle revisited

Hey Jerry, isnt there another vacuum line that goes to the forward 
section of the car for the brakes servo? 
Also if the car is automatic there should be a vacuum hose for the 
transmission as well?  

adam

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Well,
>       Im not one of the guru's on this list, however I have spent  
time on
> this idle circuit.
>      I think if your idle speed motor is working ( Buzzses with the 
key on,
> engine off ) and your idle tends upward you have a vacuum ( inlet 
air) leak.
> The leak prevents the idle motor from being in total control of the
> available air to  the engine at idle.
>      Where the air is getting in can sometimes be located with an 
accelerate
> like carburetor cleaner.  Just a shot here and there to find the 
spot that
> outside air is getting into the intake manifold. When the 
accelerate gets
> in, the engine RPM will go up for a moment. I would start at the 
back left
> side were the idle control motor hose goes into the intake 
manifold. (
> O'ring missing)  Then at all the openning into the intake even the 
ones you
> think are closed.
>     The diafram in the ac/heater switch could be open or any one of 
the
> vacumn lines under the dash could be open, broken, etc. So to get 
them all
> out of the question I would remove the large rubber line coming out 
of the
> intake manifold on the rider side and plug the manifold.  This way 
you know
> the leak is not forward in the cars compartment.
> I'm surte you have tried most of this but it might help someone.
> Your's in the Hobby
> Jerry Harry
> Vin #4890
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Louie Golden" <louie_at_dml_d...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 2:06 PM
> Subject: [DML] idle revisited
> 
> 
> > Hey group,
> >
> > I've done some more fiddling around with my car's idle... trying 
to figure
> out what the deal is. Initially I thought the cable was somehow not 
getting
> enough tension to return the throttle arm to the microswitch, but 
it looks
> like that is no longer the issue. The throttle can return the arm 
to close
> the microswitch, but the microswitch doesn't make the car idle down 
every
> time like it should. I've lubricated the ever living mess out of 
every
> visable part of the throttle linkage from front to back on the car 
for
> reference. When the car is cold, it idles perfectly (well, as 
perfectly as a
> PRV CAN idle...), but as the car warms up, something suddenly 
happens and
> the car's idle jumps to 1500 and stays. I've watched it in the 
driveway as
> this happens, so since the throttle arm isn't moving, this tells me 
it's
> something in the automatic idle system. Several months ago I could 
blip the
> throttle, and the car would *sometimes* idle down to where it 
should, but
> this is no longer the c!
> >  ase. The idle is getting progressively higher. After being 
driven, it now
> wants to idle at about 2000 rpms.
> >
> > Over the last few days I've played around with some things. First 
I just
> unplugged the idle speed motor to see what happens. The idle will 
drop about
> 200 rpms sometimes, but will jump up other times when I try this, 
but when I
> plug it back in the car idles down to 800 rpms. So for an 
experiment, I
> tried switching out the idle speed motor with one from my old 
DeLorean. This
> changed nothing with the idle situation. So let me see if I 
understand how
> the idle system works- the idle speed motor is electronically 
controlled by
> the idle speed ECU. The idle speed motor controls the throttle 
plates by
> vacuum. For reference, I also put on a new CPR over the weekend, 
and I also
> know the O2 sensor is bad because the car hunts when it is very 
very cold.
> So I've deduced that my idle speed ECU is the problem after all of 
this. Am
> I correct? Is there any further ways to test it? I really don't 
want to
> chunk down that kind of money if I don't have to, but the idle 
situation is
> getting so ann!
> >  oying that I don't want to drive it any more. I would be 
grateful for any
> additional viewpoints or suggestions. Thanks!
> >
> > Louie Golden
> > VIN 5252
> > NC plates "88 MPH"
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time 
your team
> wins! Free limited-time trial at
> http://www.AllSportsMarket.com/Index.asp?Refer=delomail
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 07:00:22 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean SPOILER

Is there anyone out there who owns this spoiler, and has a picture of
it installed on thier Delorean?

http://www.team-performance.com/ViewPartinfo.cfm?parttype=206475

I think this might be cool looking, as long as it doesn't spill over
too much.
I think this car would look good with a spoiler.
There are some "hatchback" cars like ours that just look better
with a spoiler.
I mean, have you seen a Mustang, Camera or a Firebird without the
spoiler? They just look a little goofy.

Let me know if anyone has one and what it looks like.
- VB




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 07:05:37 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Places to put stuff?

I know that D.A.R.T. sells some cool little nets that can be mounted
on the sides of the console to be used for mapholders.
The price is reasonable, but I would rather have a net than a pouch.

I was talking to a leather worker friend of mine about using some
matching looking leather or vinyl to make some pockets that would
mount either on the side of the door sill or the console.
These would have an elastic on the edge to keep them sealed, 
and you could store maps, candy, etc... in them and they would
look factory.
You would need to drill some holes in your console in order to
mount them, but they would look good.

I will first have the my set made up, but I was thinking of
offering them for sale if I get some interest.
I don't know if I should sell them each, or as sets.
I am thinking they may cost as much as $50 each because they
are custom made, it depends on materials.

Please let me know if you are interested.
- Videobob




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 07:12:16 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HOWTO: Side repeater

Does this modification affect all four of the side markers,
both the fornt orange and the rear red, or does it only work
on the front fender lights?

If not, what is the trick for doing the rear?
- VB


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> When I was webmaster for the DeLorean Owners Club, this was on my tech 
> page. As I am no longer, here it is for the benefit of DMCnews
> 
> Martin
> -----
> 
> How to make the front marker lights double-up as side repeaters
(indicators)
> 
> [Note: Parking lights are white and are called sidelights in the UK]
> 
> The result of this modification provides the following function:
> 
> 1) With headlights/sidelights OFF, the side markers flash in time with 
> the indicators
> 
> 2) With the Headlights/sidelights ON, the marker lights light up as 
> normal, but when indicating, the marker lights switch OFF in sequence 
> with the indicators switching ON
> 
> THIS IS A VERY EASY MODIFICATION, though the job itself is much simpler 
> with the front fascia removed, though it can be done where the wiring 
> for the side markers joins the headlight loom behind the headlights
> 
> 1:    Take each side in turn. You should not need to remove the marker 
> light covers. Locate the GROUND (Black) wire to the marker light and 
> making sure you have a decent length of wire from the marker light, cut 
> this wire. This removes the ground for the marker light
> 
> 2:    Of the three wires feeding the indicator bulb, locate the 
> Green/Red wire.
> 
> 3:    Splice a wire from this lead and connect it to the ground wire 
> feeding the side marker.
> 
> 4:    Repeat for the opposite side and that's it!
> 
> WHY IT WORKS (the bit you can ignore if you wish). A bulb is a
resistive 
> device and as such will work plugged in either way around.
> 
> 1:    When the indicator is OFF, the Positive feed to the indicator
bulb 
> is grounded.
> 
> 2:    When the side marker light is OFF, the Positive feed to the
marker 
> bulb is grounded.
> 
> 3:    When the side marker is OFF, and the Indicator is ON, the maker 
> will light up because its ground wire gets pulled to 12v through the 
> indicator, and its Positive feed is grounded (see 2)
> 
> 4:    When the side marker is ON, its ground wire is grounded through 
> the positive feed to the indicator (see 1).
> 
> 5:    When the side marker is ON, and the indicator is ON, both the 
> supply side and the ground side of the marker light's bulb is 12v,
so it 
> turns off.




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 07:19:40 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Black Side Stripes

I really love the look of the black side stripes, with the DMC logo on
the front fender.
(not the thin grey line DMCH sells)

I have searched the archives for this subject and found NOTHING.

Does anyone sell these?
Original or reproduction?
I know the originals were textured in a certain way, but if I can't
find any for sale I am going to try to reproduce them if I can.
My buddy can do amazing things with vinyl.
I am looking at some different materials right now.
Some are glossy, some are flat.

If there is anyone out there who has a car with these installed
please send me some close up photos of the texture, the spacing, etc.
We could easily make them....but I would rather just buy a set.

-Videobob
VIN# 5278




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 23:32:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Interesting problem with battery.

Ok everyone.  Here is one that's not quite as crazy as my last couple of posts.
 
Until I buy a battery kill switch, I have been taking the time to dettach the postitive lead to my battery every time I turn off my DeLorean.  Well, last I used it was 2 days ago, and for Christmas as a unique present I wanted to give my Mom a ride in it since she had never ridden in a DeLorean yet.  Well, I went to hook the battery up - first connecting the positive lead, then the negative.  Using a socket wrench, I went to start turning the battery bolt on the negative side, and sparks flew all over.  I don't mean one or two - I mean yellow, orange, red sparks went flying everywhere.  To say the least, I was spooked, but I went on and attached the cables securely.  Went to turn the car on, *click* - no start.  You could hear the car turning over, but no vroom vroom.  Went and tightened even more - *click* nothing.  Did this about 5 more times to no avail.
 
To say the least, I was irritated and went back into the house in defeat.  My fiance as she konked out to sleep suggested I undo both cables and try it again.  Of course, I didn't want to, and I sarcastically told her that was futile.  However, I swallowed my pride and volunteered to try one more time stating "I'm not expecting any miracles".  Went out and decided for fun to switch the battery bolts.  I connected the negative first, then the positive.  I noticed that the bolt for the positive side seemed stripped, because I would get it snug and secure, and then it would just keep turning.  I had no trouble unwinding the bolt out, but it never seemed to stop turning when I would try to tighten it.  Anyhoo, I turned it until I felt it was nice and snug, and sat in the driver's seat saying to myself sarcastically "Whatever..." and cranked the key. VVRROOOOOOM! - to life my car came...To say the simplest, I let my lady know she was right (something some of you might want to just get
 used to right now ;) )
 
My question - what the heck happened?  Did I just not ever tighten it down right the last SEVEN attempts?  Did I just not get a good connection?  Was my battery on its last leg?  Can someone give me a tip to two to keep from establishing a channel so I don't see those sparks again..?  Would the battery kill switch save me this aggravation?
 
I was very happy to see my car behave, but I don't want to go through that again.


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 10:32:42 -0000
From: "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto

Just in case we have any "Big" spenders in the house, I had recently 
contacted them via their website. They got back with me and 
confirmed they still have the 83 Delorean, but the current price is 
now $72,000. Guess I should have jumped on it last week at $65,000. 
Also they tell me no pictures are available, but it is mint, funny I 
hear that a lot when there are no pictures available, but for $72K 
it better be.

Joe



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Hey guys, I might have mentioned this before but here is an update.
> 
> Toyota of Irving (Dallas, Texas)
> http://www.toyota-irving.com/
> ...they used to be the original Dallas Delorean dealers and they 
kept
> thier last 83. It is a black auto with a little over 100 miles.
> It has never been tagged or titled.
> However, they are little proud of it.
> They want $65,000 for it.
> 
> Just letting you know about it.
> - VB




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 11:38:04 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: idle revisited



Loui, I bet it's still the idle micro-switch that isn't pushed
all the way down. Test it while motor running at higher idle
simply bi pushing the switch with a small screw driver.
If it still doesn't work - test if the switch has a temperature
problem.
I sometimes have the same problem with idle at 1500rpm. Simply by
pushing the gas and releasing the pedal fast will solve it while
in traffic. I solved in by setting the srecws properly. The screw
for the switch has to push the switch 1-2mm before the other screw
stops it from moving any further.
Is there any gap in the throttle cable and linkage ? There must be one !
Is everything lubed ? NOT with WD40, that doesn't last.



By the way - why do you think your O2 sensor is faulty ?
When cold this thing doesn't even work ! It starts working
at about 500 to 600C ! So this shouldn't do anything to your idle
at all. Only if a temperature sensor is defect and telling the
ECU it's already hot enough to use the O2 Sensor, then there may
be such an effect. But then still the O2 sensor is not defect but a
temperature sensor....

Try to play with those two little screws first, I can't imagine that
there is any vacuum leak that reacts so hard on rising temperature.

Elvis




Hey group,

I've done some more fiddling around with my car's idle... trying to figure
out what the deal is. Initially I thought the cable was somehow not getting
enough tension to return the throttle arm to the microswitch, but it looks
like that is no longer the issue. The throttle can return the arm to close
the microswitch, but the microswitch doesn't make the car idle down every
time like it should. I've lubricated the ever living mess out of every
visable part of the throttle linkage from front to back on the car for
reference. When the car is cold, it idles perfectly (well, as perfectly as a
PRV CAN idle...), but as the car warms up, something suddenly happens and
the car's idle jumps to 1500 and stays. I've watched it in the driveway as
this happens, so since the throttle arm isn't moving, this tells me it's
something in the automatic idle system. Several months ago I could blip the
throttle, and the car would *sometimes* idle down to where it should, but
this is no longer the case. The idle is getting progressively higher. After
being driven, it now wants to idle at about 2000 rpms.

Over the last few days I've played around with some things. First I just
unplugged the idle speed motor to see what happens. The idle will drop about
200 rpms sometimes, but will jump up other times when I try this, but when I
plug it back in the car idles down to 800 rpms. So for an experiment, I
tried switching out the idle speed motor with one from my old DeLorean. This
changed nothing with the idle situation. So let me see if I understand how
the idle system works- the idle speed motor is electronically controlled by
the idle speed ECU. The idle speed motor controls the throttle plates by
vacuum. For reference, I also put on a new CPR over the weekend, and I also
know the O2 sensor is bad because the car hunts when it is very very cold.
So I've deduced that my idle speed ECU is the problem after all of this. Am
I correct? Is there any further ways to test it? I really don't want to
chunk down that kind of money if I don't have to, but the idle situation is
getting so annoying that I don't want to drive it any more. I would be
grateful for any additional viewpoints or suggestions. Thanks!

Louie Golden
VIN 5252
NC plates "88 MPH"

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team
wins! Free limited-time trial at
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 06:33:57 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: VH1 promo with Delorean

Hello, I found the VH1 promo with the Delorean that Rich W was talking
about a few days ago.

Worth a watch!

http://www.vh1.com/shows/hot_spots/

"ice skating holiday promo"

Jim
1537



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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 11:51:22 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: A holiday toast

At this holiday season, I would like to suggest that we all raise a cup 
of thanks to the DML moderators. Week after week, they labor silently 
at a thankless task so that we may all enjoy the world's best source of 
De Lorean support. It is a credit to the skill and finesse with which 
they have done this over the years that this list has survived and 
prospered for so long without loss of quality, vibrance, or civility.

Thanks, guys!

Skol.


--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 17:52:00 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: idle revisited

This is a very interesting letter and it makes me think about a problem I'm 
having.
1.)  My system seems to idle properly when cold, then about 1000 rpm when 
warmed up.
We have spent substantial time eliminating vacumn leaks but....
2.)  My heating switch does not work properly, ie) if I switch from 
defroster to heater etc. it doesn't change anything, I just get a little 
heat out of all the places.

The letter below indicates that a diaphragm could be responsible for the air 
leak.
What exactly do I need to change to fix this?
Thanks,
Dale Funk
#4984


>From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] idle revisited
>Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 05:40:07 -0600
>
>Well,
>       Im not one of the guru's on this list, however I have spent  time on
>this idle circuit.
>      I think if your idle speed motor is working ( Buzzses with the key 
>on,
>engine off ) and your idle tends upward you have a vacuum ( inlet air) 
>leak.
>The leak prevents the idle motor from being in total control of the
>available air to  the engine at idle.
>      Where the air is getting in can sometimes be located with an 
>accelerate
>like carburetor cleaner.  Just a shot here and there to find the spot that
>outside air is getting into the intake manifold. When the accelerate gets
>in, the engine RPM will go up for a moment. I would start at the back left
>side were the idle control motor hose goes into the intake manifold. (
>O'ring missing)  Then at all the openning into the intake even the ones you
>think are closed.
>     The diafram in the ac/heater switch could be open or any one of the
>vacumn lines under the dash could be open, broken, etc. So to get them all
>out of the question I would remove the large rubber line coming out of the
>intake manifold on the rider side and plug the manifold.  This way you know
>the leak is not forward in the cars compartment.
>I'm surte you have tried most of this but it might help someone.
>Your's in the Hobby
>Jerry Harry
>Vin #4890
>
>
>
>From: "Louie Golden" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 2:06 PM
>Subject: [DML] idle revisited
>
>
> > Hey group,
> >
> > I've done some more fiddling around with my car's idle... trying to 
>figure
>out what the deal is. Initially I thought the cable was somehow not getting
>enough tension to return the throttle arm to the microswitch, but it looks
>like that is no longer the issue. The throttle can return the arm to close
>the microswitch, but the microswitch doesn't make the car idle down every
>time like it should. I've lubricated the ever living mess out of every
>visable part of the throttle linkage from front to back on the car for
>reference. When the car is cold, it idles perfectly (well, as perfectly as 
>a
>PRV CAN idle...), but as the car warms up, something suddenly happens and
>the car's idle jumps to 1500 and stays. I've watched it in the driveway as
>this happens, so since the throttle arm isn't moving, this tells me it's
>something in the automatic idle system. Several months ago I could blip the
>throttle, and the car would *sometimes* idle down to where it should, but
>this is no longer the c!
> >  ase. The idle is getting progressively higher. After being driven, it 
>now
>wants to idle at about 2000 rpms.
> >
> > Over the last few days I've played around with some things. First I just
>unplugged the idle speed motor to see what happens. The idle will drop 
>about
>200 rpms sometimes, but will jump up other times when I try this, but when 
>I
>plug it back in the car idles down to 800 rpms. So for an experiment, I
>tried switching out the idle speed motor with one from my old DeLorean. 
>This
>changed nothing with the idle situation. So let me see if I understand how
>the idle system works- the idle speed motor is electronically controlled by
>the idle speed ECU. The idle speed motor controls the throttle plates by
>vacuum. For reference, I also put on a new CPR over the weekend, and I also
>know the O2 sensor is bad because the car hunts when it is very very cold.
>So I've deduced that my idle speed ECU is the problem after all of this. Am
>I correct? Is there any further ways to test it? I really don't want to
>chunk down that kind of money if I don't have to, but the idle situation is
>getting so ann!
> >  oying that I don't want to drive it any more. I would be grateful for 
>any
>additional viewpoints or suggestions. Thanks!
> >
> > Louie Golden
> > VIN 5252
> > NC plates "88 MPH"
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your 
>team
>wins! Free limited-time trial at
>http://www.AllSportsMarket.com/Index.asp?Refer=delomail
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Take advantage of our limited-time introductory offer for dial-up Internet 
access. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 19:48:52 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: engine cover paint

Is it necessary to use high-temp paint or some kind of plastic paint 
to repaint the engine compartment cover?  Any tips?  

Also, I've been reading about the A-pillar trim panels...Mine are 
badly warped.  Is it really necessary to remove the windshield to 
repair/replace these?  I have an early 81 car, if it makes any 
difference.  

Happy Holidays!

Matt
#1604




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 03:21:16 -0600
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
Subject: Re: idle revisited

Dale;
You can get a good idea of what the under dash looks like on page 7/3/0 of
the parts book.  Part number 100752 item 7 has the diaphragm inside.  ( It
is called Mode Switch). The lines come off it in one solid rubber boot with
all the line connections built in.  It looks like you could never get it
back together but my went back in and connected really easy.  Only two
screws hold the switch in, they go in from the front panel. The switch is
really not an electrical switch, it just send vacunm to the different
position to close or open doors in the fan air system. Depending on what
might be broken or just cracked when the right thing is selected you could
have a leak.  Depending on how broken it is you can sometimes hear it
sucking air.
Your's in the Hobby
Jerry Harry
Vin 4890

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] idle revisited


> This is a very interesting letter and it makes me think about a problem
I'm
> having.
> 1.)  My system seems to idle properly when cold, then about 1000 rpm when
> warmed up.
> We have spent substantial time eliminating vacumn leaks but....
> 2.)  My heating switch does not work properly, ie) if I switch from
> defroster to heater etc. it doesn't change anything, I just get a little
> heat out of all the places.
>
> The letter below indicates that a diaphragm could be responsible for the
air
> leak.
> What exactly do I need to change to fix this?
> Thanks,
> Dale Funk
> #4984
>
[Moderator snip]



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 20:20:27 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New, Untitled Delorean in Dallas - 126 miles - black / auto

theyre dreaming, maybe 30 to $35,000.....maybe.too bad its an auto 
though...i wouldve played ball if it was a 5 speed.




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 20:24:54 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: eagle premier engine

what ever happened to the info on this engine in the files section?? 
I found a brand new engine still in the crate complete for $500 and 
am considering buying it and working it over, anyone have any info 
on this thing? what can be done, limitations  etc...i cant seem to 
find anything about it on any Mopar sites....for $500 what the heck




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 15:35:23 EST
From: DBoboc9556_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Delolrean grout on DIY channel

I was watching a show called "Tiling Techniques" on the DIY channel where 
they were using a grout with a color that sounded to me like "Delorean Gray."  I 
wasn't quite sure if I heard them correctly, so I visited their website.  Sure 
enough, it was "Delorean Gray."  Pretty neat, I thought.

Dave Boboc    


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 04:08:24 -0600
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
Subject: Re: idle revisited

Adam;
I think you are right, I forgot it. Hope it doesn't turn out to be the guys
problem, the brake vacuum line I mean. I think he will find it though if he
just kills that big line coming out of the rider side of the manifold. Mine
Ts and go forward from that port. The other side of the T goes to the vacuum
reservoir and Ts again to the mode switch.
Like I said, I not a guru, just like the little car.
Your in the Hobby
Jerry Harry
Vin 4890
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2003 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] idle revisited


> Hey Jerry, isnt there another vacuum line that goes to the forward
> section of the car for the brakes servo?
> Also if the car is automatic there should be a vacuum hose for the
> transmission as well?
>
> adam
>
[moderator snip]



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 16:39:15 -0600
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: New coolant bottle/bleeding question

I have the new aluminum coolant bottle that I'm going to install this
weekend, however I was wondering something about bleeding the system.  I
gather that the air gets trapped in the system b/c the thermostat housing is
higher than the radiator, but what if you raised the front of the car
(before doing any work) so that now the radiator is actually higher than the
thermostat?

Also, on the new coolant bottle, there are 3 places for the hoses to
go...does the overflow hose attach to the 2nd nipple or to the first nipple?

Thanks and happy holidays!

Duke




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 17:39:47 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Interesting problem with battery.

In a message dated 12/25/03 1:30:53 PM Central Standard Time, 
hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
My question - what the heck happened?  Did I just not ever tighten it down 
right the last SEVEN attempts?  Did I just not get a good connection?  Was my 
battery on its last leg?  Can someone give me a tip to two to keep from 
establishing a channel so I don't see those sparks again..?  Would the battery kill 
switch save me this aggravation?

I was very happy to see my car behave, but I don't want to go through that 
again.
If it won't tighten down all the way, you obviously stripped the bolts for 
the battery and should replace them - in fact, the battery ITSELF could be 
stripped, and you might need a new battery or else you'll never get a straight, 
tight connection. consider replacing the cables too, and save yourself the 
aggravation of ANOTHER thing to try to F* with while fixing all the other problems 
on the car.  a battery switch will keep you from ever having to remove the 
cables again, reducing the likelihood of restripping new parts.  spend the money 
and fix it once the RIGHT way and don't worry about it again, that's my motto.  

BTW, i still suggest you do as much work as possible on your car yourself 
before you send it out to a vendor.  you will learn so much more about your car 
and you will become an authority in your own right, not to mention get a lot 
more work done for less money (but at the expense of needing more time).

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 17:58:51 EST
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Interesting problem with battery.

Why unhook it each time you are done using it?  I used to do that because my 
battery was dead a day later, but it turned out my battery had developed a 
dead cell.  I also found out my door plungers were not long enough, so the driver 
door lights were staying on when my door was shut ($1.90 vaccum seals from 
Autozone fixed this when applied to the end of the plungers).  Anyway, take your 
battery in to sears or autozone and have them run a test to see if it is good 
or bad. 

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 23:34:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: idle revisited [Mode Switch]

If the mode switch isn't working first check that it is geting vacuum.
If you hear it hissing and it seems to change the noise when you turn
it into different positions then you probably need to at least
lubricate it. It should turn easily and click into positions without a
lot of force. In Ken's latest magazine he does a whole article on
rebuilding it. You may require a new rubber diaphram. It is a small
round black piece of rubber with channels in it to send the vacuum to
the correct ports. It wears and dries out and cracks. If it is in good
shape a little grease may be all you need. Of course this is assuming
all the actuaters are working and all the hoses are connected. As bad
as vacuum leaks are the mode switch doesn't seem to have all that much
of an effect on the idle (it still shouldn't leak).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> This is a very interesting letter and it makes me think about a
problem I'm 
> having.
> 1.)  My system seems to idle properly when cold, then about 1000 rpm
when 
> warmed up.
> We have spent substantial time eliminating vacumn leaks but....
> 2.)  My heating switch does not work properly, ie) if I switch from 





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 17:34:47 -0800 (PST)
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Merry Christmas!!!

Hi, Just wanted to say Merry Christmas to all. And say thanks for all the Info.          Thanks Casey  VIN# 3270


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 01:38:36 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: 1:24 scale DeLorean Models

List,

Did anyone get the Welly 1:24 scale DMC-12 for Chistmas?
Did you notice the BTTF overhead console (under T-panel)
that was used on this model, instead of a stock interior piece?
No big deal, but I do not think the purists will like this "oops".

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "haugrd" <haugrd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> For those of you that collect DeLorean diecast models, you may now 
> purchase the Welly 1:24 scale models in the DMC-12, BTTF I, BTTF II, 
> and BTTF III configurations available in the DeLorean Owners 
> Association new DeLorean-Model-Connection webstore located at:
> 
> www.deloreanmodels.com/
> 
> All models are in stock for immediate delivery before the holidays.
> 
> Happy Holidays to all DeLorean owners and enthusiasts around the 
> world.
> 
> Ray Haug, Internet/Products Director
> DeLorean Owners Association
> (products at deloreanstore.com)




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 03:18:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: idle revisited [Mode Switch]

Actually line to mode switch (from vacuum canister) is quite large: 
1/4". Factory original is made of hard plastic, subject to crack. 
That's what happened to me on trip to SEDOC. Totally barbeque'd 
driver's side plugs. See pic in #5939's photo album (especially 
compared to passenger side plugs -- vacuum leak isolated to passenger 
side rail. That's how I isolated leak so quickly. Hard plastic line 
has since been replaced with 1/4" fuel line hose).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> If the mode switch isn't working first check that it is geting 
vacuum.
> If you hear it hissing and it seems to change the noise when you 
turn
> it into different positions then you probably need to at least
> lubricate it. It should turn easily and click into positions 
without a
> lot of force. In Ken's latest magazine he does a whole article on
> rebuilding it. You may require a new rubber diaphram. It is a small
> round black piece of rubber with channels in it to send the vacuum 
to
> the correct ports. It wears and dries out and cracks. If it is in 
good
> shape a little grease may be all you need. Of course this is 
assuming
> all the actuaters are working and all the hoses are connected. As 
bad
> as vacuum leaks are the mode switch doesn't seem to have all that 
much
> of an effect on the idle (it still shouldn't leak).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > This is a very interesting letter and it makes me think about a
> problem I'm 
> > having.
> > 1.)  My system seems to idle properly when cold, then about 1000 
rpm
> when 
> > warmed up.
> > We have spent substantial time eliminating vacumn leaks but....
> > 2.)  My heating switch does not work properly, ie) if I switch 
from




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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