From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1813
Date: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 7:50 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: "Ruswtproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Pearce Design Stainless Steel Frames
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

5. Owners vs. The Insurance Companies
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

7. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

8. RE: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

9. Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
From: "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: Clutch Fluid
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

15. Re: Howdy all
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

16. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Turbo Kit
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

19. Re: car smells like antifreeze
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

21. throttle adjustment
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. Study shows that silver cars are safer (http://bmj.com)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. stuck door & hood
From: "hawaiid_ro" <robinsonl002_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>

24. Rack & Pinion determination
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

25. DMC #1629 on the road, again.
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:20:17 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

Not to scare you, but if you smell it that strongly, but can't see 
any drips, I believe you have a leak in the "valley" between cylinder 
banks.

I believe the engine heat brings out the odor. It may be pooling up 
in the valley. Eventually, it will overflow and you'll see drips on 
the ground where it has over run the castings.

The actual leak may be very minor though. It could be a worn O-ring 
for the Y-distribution coolant pipe or one of the hoses on the back 
of the waterpump, OR the heater hose that runs from the valley 
towards the front of the car.

These are all easy fixes. The bummer is pulling the intake off to get 
at them. Shine a light in between the waterpump hoses to try and look 
into the valley. It's kind of hard to see in there.

Let us know what you find.

Rich
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like 
antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show 
under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of the 
engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very 
hard to
> localize the smell.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look first?




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:20:27 -0500
From: "Ruswtproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

I was having the same problem...turned out to be a small leak in the heater
control valve dripping onto the exhaust manifold crossover pipe. Hence the
smell. Since it was evaporating as soon as it hit the hot pipe...no puddle
under the car either. Reach back there and grab the valve when it's cold and
see if your hand comes up wet. Good luck.
Rustproof
1559

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 10:49 PM
Subject: [DML] car smells like antifreeze


>
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
>
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of the engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very hard to
> localize the smell.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look first?



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:41:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid

As I'm sure you've heard by now, most people recommend Castrol GTLMA 
(Low Moisture Absorption) brake fluid. If you can find it, you might 
try that instead.

To answer your question, at first I couldn't find the Castrol so I 
also bought the Valvoline SynPower fluid to flush my clutch system. 
That was 4-6 months ago and I've had no problems. Out of paranoia I 
have checked my system a couple of times per month since I put it in.

I'm not bashing a vendor but do you know if the parts Houston sent 
were NOS or "new"? I wonder what happens to the rubber components 
after sitting for 20+ years. That may or may not have anything to do 
with it.

Good Luck,

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> Hello List,
> 2 years ago I replaced both my master and slave cylinders with new 
ones from DMC houston.  About 6 months ago I noticed my master 
cyliner leaking by my foot, and the clutch fluid decreasing.  I 
purchased a new master cylinder from grady, and a new slave cyliner 
from specialtauto, so i would have them on hand and waited until 
christmas break (now) to change cylinders.  I just changed the slave 
cylinder, and started on my master cylinder, I noticed the fluid in 
the master cylinder resivoir has turnned to a black jelly.  There is 
quite literally 1 inch  of just black thick gel mush in the 
resivior.  I had changed fluid when I changed cylinders previously 
and used valvoline synpower (DOT 4).  Was this the cause of my 
premature failure?  Had I waited too long to change the fluid (2 
years)?  I have the SS braided clutch line, and a fuel grade line 
that runs from the resivoir to the master cylinder, so I would not 
suspect contamination from the hoses.  I went and bought 2 bottles of 
valvolineABS (exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 standards) fluid, but I am not 
sure I want that fluid in my clutch system now.  Do other people use 
this fluid for their clutch system?
> Thanks
> Joe P.
> VIN 17167 6808
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:44:17 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Pearce Design Stainless Steel Frames

I used part of the long holiday weekend to drive from Houston to St. Louis
to visit family, and also made a quick trip on Saturday to Chicago to pick
up a stainless steel frame, trailing arms and front and lower control arms
for a special project we are working on here.

Bryan Pearce, his father Reg, and Rich Weissensel met me at Bryan's home and
showed me all around their shop where the frames are assembled. Reg spent a
great deal of time explaining the process to me, and also pointed out a few
areas where extra attention would be necessary during the frame build-up. I
was very impressed with the quality of materials, welds, and attention to
detail. The improvements over a stock frame (aside from the obvious benefit
of being stainless) include a "bolt-on" front frame extension (crumple
tube), a removable rear cross member, strengthened engine support mounts and
shock towers, and more.

Rich and Bryan helped me get it loaded in the back of a VERY short bed
pickup truck and strapped down for the 1100 mile trip back to Houston. It
rained all the way from Little Rock back to Houston, and aside from fielding
a lot of questions at gas stops, the trip was happily uneventful.

With this frame, we now have two of the ten Pearce design SS frames in
existence in our shop. Ours is #000010 and the other, for a client's car, is
#000002. Bryan and Reg mentioned that they only have one left available
(#000009) for sale at this time. I'm sure that more will be forthcoming
after that one is sold, too.

Over the next couple months, as we do the buildup of these two frames, I'll
post more to the list about how it progresses. It was certainly a pleasant
transaction, and I wanted to thank Bryan and his father Reg for taking time
out of their holiday weekend to spend time with me and allow me to pickup
the frame. And without Rich's efforts to strap it down, there was every
possibility that I would have lost it somewhere along the way!

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:42:05 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Owners vs. The Insurance Companies

Hi all,

I've seen a few posts in the last 6 months regarding members who've 
had the bad fortune to have their DeLoreans totalled out in accidents.

The most recent post by "bepositive" detailing how his insurance 
company is shafting him has prompted me to do a little research. 
For some of us, getting insurance at all is very difficult, but 
paying for insurance that won't pay you for your wrecked car is worse 
than having no insurance at all.

First, after calling Safeco, State Farm and Allstate, I found they 
all say they will pay "fair market value". When pressed on where they 
obtain that data from, they all faltered and refused to provide me 
with a concrete answer. They have no idea what "fair market value" 
for a DeLorean is because the market is tiny.

My insurance company, (Safeco) did state that they would honor a 
written, signed, appraisal by an auto dealer, antique dealer, or from 
the DeLorean vendors/service centers. They will then adjust my 
premium accordingly vs. just pluggin in a VIN number and going with 
the default value in their computers. As you can imagine, the default 
value is tied to the VIN which shows the age of the vehicle so the 
payout probably wouldn't be the worth of the vehicle. All they see is 
a 20+ year old car.

Many of us do our own maintenance and repairs. I want us all to get 
fair value for our collector's cars, our time, sweat and parts. 
Unfortunately, many of us aren't "professional collectors" and don't 
know all the in's and out's of insurance companies.

For those of us who aren't savvy, I urge you to contact your 
insurance companies and find out exactly what happens if your car is 
totalled. Get names and times. Press them. Be a jerk. Don't let them 
waver. If they sound uncertain, tell them you have their name and 
you're holding them to it. Talk to a supervisor, whatever it takes.

Insurance co's are in the business of making money, not paying it out.

Respectfully,

Rich Acuti
#5335




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:47:00 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid

My guess is the new brake fluid destroyed the seals in your
master cylinder.  Castrol GTLMA is the best fluid for 
Girling brake components.  GTLMA is the only fluid I have 
found that will not attack the natural rubber found in 
most Girling brake and clutch components.  You should now 
rebuild your slave cylinder and probably take a look at your 
caliper seals as well.

--
Mike
> Hello List,
> 
> 2 years ago I replaced both my master and slave cylinders with new ones from DMC 
> houston.  About 6 months ago I noticed my master cyliner leaking by my foot, and 
> the clutch fluid decreasing.  I purchased a new master cylinder from grady, and 
> a new slave cyliner from specialtauto, so i would have them on hand and waited 
> until christmas break (now) to change cylinders.  I just changed the slave 
> cylinder, and started on my master cylinder, I noticed the fluid in the master 
> cylinder resivoir has turnned to a black jelly.  There is quite literally 1 inch  
> of just black thick gel mush in the resivior.  I had changed fluid when I 
> changed cylinders previously and used valvoline synpower (DOT 4).  Was this the 
> cause of my premature failure?  Had I waited too long to change the fluid (2 
> years)?  I have the SS braided clutch line, and a fuel grade line that runs from 
> the resivoir to the master cylinder, so I would not suspect contamination from 
> the hoses.  I went and bought 2 bottles of valvolineABS (exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 
> standards) fluid, but I am not sure I want that fluid in my clutch system now.  
> Do other people use this fluid for their clutch system?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe P.
> 
> VIN 17167 6808



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:49:00 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

Get a coolant system pressure tester and pump up the system
pressure while the car is cold.  You should see any leaks at 
that time. 

--
Mike
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of the engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very hard to
> localize the smell.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look first?
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:31:41 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster

i went to ACE hardware and they had one with a rubber half moon in stock.  I
had a few cut right there.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott McMullan [mailto:mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com]
Sent: December 28, 2003 7:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] The Great DeLorean Key Disaster



> Has anyone had success getting copies made at their local hardware
> store by using original keys or does everyone get theirs cut by code?

> I've had zero success finding a local hardware store or superstore that
> carries the X29/VO73 key blank.
> However, my favorite local locksmith stocks the blank, and has made
> perfectly functioning copies of the one key I got with my car, and perfect
> 2nd generation copies from the first one he cut for me.  Good thing, since I
> don't have the code for my keys (the VIN numbers in my doors don't match my
> car, or each other, so I don't trust the key codes I see there).
>
> I highly recommend you go to a small local locksmith for these keys.  YMMV,
> but mine charged under $4 per key total.



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:49:37 -0000
From: "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster

Where would one mail keys to to have them "cut" by code? What 
necessary info would be needed? I have 2 Deloreans and I am tempting 
fate by only having one working set for each. Have plenty of blanks, 
but every time I try to use a hardware store they cut them with to 
sharpe an edge to the keys and it will not turn in the cylinders. I 
would rather just use my remaining DMC blanks and have them cut by a 
pro. So where would I need to send them along with what information?

Thanks,

Joe O'Brien





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Once again, Ken Creason has pulled my chestnuts from the fire and 
is 
> cutting and mailing me keys to my car. (by code)
> 
> I'll ask this question to everyone:
> 
> Has anyone had success getting copies made at their local hardware 
> store by using original keys or does everyone get theirs cut by 
code?
> I'm no locksmith but to me, this is just a plain, Ilco X29 blank 
key, 
> also used in Volvos(?)
> 
> BEFORE I lost my key, I spent 3 weeks bouncing around the local 
> stores (Home Despot, Lower than Lowe's, and No Value) Are the 
people 
> in my area just retarded or are these keys special somehow?
> 
> I'm not stupid. I knew I was tempting fate by running around with 
one 
> key, but no one could operate their little computerized key 
cutters! 
> I gave them my blanks, I let them choose their own blanks, and 
> nothing! Granted, the machine operators were pimple-faced brats who 
> can't even -spell- DeLorean, let alone cut a key for one. I wish 
> someone around here used the old manual trace cutters.
> 
> I have a DMC repro key from Houston that I want to cut. It just 
seems 
> silly to mail it around but if that's the way it has to be...(now I 
> find out they could have cut it for me. Duh.)
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Rich
> #5335




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:41:43 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Clutch Fluid

go to Pepboys and get the Castrol GTLMA fluid DOT 4.  i work at an auto
parts store (not Pepboys) and we sell the valvoline stuff.  i used it in my
brake master cylinder and it had to be replaced soon after.  dont forget to
flush your lines and replace the clutch line with the braided stainless
steel line from DMCH or another vendor.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: Palatinus, Joe [mailto:jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu]
Sent: December 29, 2003 12:17 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Clutch Fluid


> Hello List, 2 years ago I replaced both my master and slave
> cylinders with new ones from DMC houston.  About 6 months
> ago I noticed my master cyliner leaking by my foot, and the
> clutch fluid decreasing.  I purchased a new master cylinder
> from grady, and a new slave cyliner from specialtauto, so i
> would have them on hand and waited until christmas break
> (now) to change cylinders.  I just changed the slave cylinder,
> and started on my master cylinder, I noticed the fluid in the
> master cylinder resivoir has turnned to a black jelly.  There
> is quite literally 1 inch  of just black thick gel mush in the
> resivior.  I had changed fluid when I changed cylinders
> previously and used valvoline synpower (DOT 4).  Was this the
> cause of my premature failure?  Had I waited too long to change
> the fluid (2 years)?  I have the SS braided clutch line, and a
> fuel grade line that runs from the resivoir to the master
> cylinder, so I would not suspect contamination from the hoses.
> I went and bought 2 bottles of valvolineABS (exceeds DOT 3 and
> DOT 4 standards) fluid, but I am not sure I want that fluid
> in my clutch system now.  Do other people use this fluid for
> their clutch system? Thanks
> Joe P. VIN 17167 6808



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:54:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

If you smell anti-freeze and the level goes down so that you have to
add some once in a while then it is leaking. If you don't see it then
chances are it is leaking on top of the motor. Either the hoses, the
seals, or both. The cure is the Master Water Pump Kit. It has all the
hoses, seals, bolts, "O" rings, water pump, belts, etc. This is a big
job for someone who is not experienced in this type of repair. Very
often you will break at least 1 bolt so you have to be able to drill
it out which is not easy (steel bolt in soft alumium at a weird angle).
While doing this it is recomended to also do a tune-up and have the
fuel injectors cleaned and adjust the valves. If you are not
comfortable doing this kind of work yourself find a group of local
owners that can help or a Volvo dealer or a Delorean vender. This does
not get better by itself and will only get worse. If too much coolant
gets out and air gets in the cooling system won't work and the car
will overheat. Overheating the motor is EXPENSIVE.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like
antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:59:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid

If the fluid is thick and black it is ruining the parts. It gets that
way by absorbing moisture and corroding the innards of the system. The
best thing you can do now is to try to flush it out THOURGHLY and use
Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. It seems that it is the only one that is
recomended for use in British cars. It is also supposed to be flushed
out every 2 years in the clutch AND the brakes. I suggest you try to
remove as much fluid from the master cylinder an possible and then
fill with Castrol flushing and bleeding each caliper and slave
cylinder until the fluid runs clear with no dirt or air.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hello List,
> 2 years ago I replaced both my master and slave cylinders with new
ones from DMC houston.  About 6 months ago I noticed my master cyliner
leaking by my foot, and the clutch fluid decreasing.  I purchased a
new master cylinder from grady, and a new slave cyliner from
specialtauto, 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 20:52:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid

Joe - There are many opinions about the "proper" fluids to use in 
the clutch and brake systems.  The manuals call for Castrol GTLMA 
(Low Moisture Absorbtion).  That said, I have used Valvoline 
Synpower synthetic DOT 4 fluid in both systems on Winged1 for 
several years now with absolutely no issues.  I find that this fluid 
stays very clean and performs well.  You mentioned that you were 
using a fuel-rated hose between the reservoir and the clutch M/C.  
There are differences in the ability of various rubber materials to 
withstand hydraulic fluid.  I used a fuel hose briefly several years 
ago in that location, and the fluid was actually forming "beads of 
sweat" as it soaked its way through the hose.  You need to get a 
hose material that is specifically for hydraulic fluid.  Although 
the proper maintenance for these systems calls for flushing the 
fluid yearly, or at most every two years, we have seen many cars 
that have never had a good flushing that are still serviceable.  
Sometimes pure dumb luck enters into the equation.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 Winged1
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


[Duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 21:03:37 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

Scott - I used to have that problem with Winged1.  Then, one cold 
winter morning I glanced under the car and noticed steam coming from 
every joint between the rubber hoses and the hard aluminum pipes. I 
never had any fluid leaks that showed up on the garage floor. I 
replaced all the hose sections with Gates Green Stripe, using very 
good stainless steel clamps.  That pretty much cleared up the odor.  
Don't forget all of the hidden hoses and joints under the intake 
manifold.  They are a favorite source of coolant leakage, and you 
rarely see any drips because it gets hot enough to evaporate any 
fluids.  The bummer is that you must remove the intake to check them 
out.  Several experts on the List recommend that you perform a 
pressure test on the entire system to make sure that it holds 15 psi 
for 20 - 30 minutes.  This test might pinpoint the areas where you 
are experiencing a pressure leak, which will result in the smell you 
are describing.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 Winged1
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like 
antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show 
under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of 
the engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very 
hard to
> localize the smell.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look first?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 21:20:08 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Howdy all

Cain - The headquarters for one of the excellent DeLorean-specifc 
magazines is in St. Peters, MO.  The magazine is called Gullwing 
Magazine, and the owners, Ron and Cheryl Wester, are also DeLorean 
owners.  They have a gorgeous yellow D that has been featured in 
many places.  Touch base with them at gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 Winged1
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I just discovered this group last night. I own vin 002835. It's 
> nothing special, just your average Delorean.
> 
> I was wondering if there are any other owners on here in my 
vicinity? 
> 
> I am in Springfield, MO. I have made a few friends on other 
Delorean 
> forums but unfortunately no one is near me.
> 
> Thanks,
> Cain




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:04:12 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

In a message dated 12/29/03 8:49:40 AM Central Standard Time, 
mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com writes:
I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show under the
car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of the engine
compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very hard to
localize the smell.

Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look first?
>>>>>>>>>>>.
Is your overflow level low?

Get a pressure tester for cooling systems that will fit your car (almost all 
GM vehicles are this size), go somewhere really quiet, and pump it up to 
15lbs.  it will probably go down, hopefully not too fast!  anyway, listen for 
hissing or bubbling, and that should help you narrow down things.  don't forget 
about the heater core, which you might not be able to hear unless you are in the 
car. 

If you can't find any leaks but it is definitely losing pressure, check your 
oil and see if has white swirls in it or check your exhaust next time you 
start up cold for white smoke.  maybe a headgasket?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:05:08 -0800 (PST)
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turbo Kit

Hi everyone, Is there a company that sells a turbo kit
for the delorean,signal or twin? Will the signal turbo
make a big difference in power or should the twin be
used. What is the price range for a kit? Just
wondering, Casey VIN#3270



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:26:33 -0600
From: <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

If you checked the email archieves you would have found that what you are describing is typical of a DeLorean. Your leak is under the intake manifold. The antifreeze puddles on top of the engine and cooks, which is what you smell. The fix is to contact PJ Grady for the silicon hose replacement kit and you may as well replace the waterpump while you have the top off the engine.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
> 
> From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com>
> Date: 2003/12/28 Sun PM 09:49:07 CST
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [DML] car smells like antifreeze
> 
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it smells like antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem... no drips show under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from the top of the engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the engine, it's very hard to
> localize the smell.






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:31:27 -0800 (PST)
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: car smells like antifreeze

--- Scott McMullan <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com> wrote:
> 
> I recently noticed that every time I drive my D, it
> smells like antifreeze
> when I get out... and the oder has been getting
> stronger.
> 
> I have found no visible evidence of the problem...
> no drips show under the
> car, and the hoses that are immediately visible from
> the top of the engine
> compartment look and feel OK.  Up close to the
> engine, it's very hard to
> localize the smell.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look
> first?
> 
 Scott, It may be the hoses behind the water pump and
under the intake. The heat from the engine will dry
the antifreeze up before it reaches the ground. A cold
presure check might find it. Hope this helps, Casey
VIN#3270



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:54:45 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid

I seem to hear everyone going after Castrol brake fluid, but trying to 
find the stuff is difficult. The only places that carry it around here 
is Pep Boys and Carquest.

Samuel
#5096

Palatinus, Joe wrote:

[Same quote, snipped again.]



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:42:41 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: throttle adjustment

List,

I am writing an article for Gullwing Magazine about the idle system and want 
to be as complete as possible.  My car is in storage w/o access for the winter 
time and i am having trouble visualizing the throttle linkage.  Not only 
that, but i haven't had to work on it for many months, which is leaving me sketchy.

I am attempting to describe how to adjust throttle linkage from scratch, by 
adjusting the throttle wire for tightness, adjusting the linkage between the 
spool and hammer, and adjusting the stop screws.  If someone who is 100% sure on 
procedures could explain to me what to look for and how to adjust the middle 
linkage, i would be greatly appreciative and i will credit your input on the 
article.  I did this myself like three years ago but now without my car nearby 
i don't remember what i did.

Please do not reply if you are not 100% sure of what you are saying because 
it is my highest priority to provide accurate information to the DeLorean 
public.  


Thanks for the input!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:03:44 -0800
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Study shows that silver cars are safer (http://bmj.com)

------------------------------------------------------------

James Espey (james_at_dml_usadmc.com) has sent this article to you from BMJ:


Car colour and risk of car crash injury: population based case control study

http://bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/327/7429/1455?eaf


------------------------------------------------------------

Bodies that never rust, gullwing doors that require less space 
to park, and now this! John DeLorean is truly a visionary!

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
http://www.delorean.com


------------------------------------------------------------



This is sent to you as an email-a-friend feature from
BMJ at http://bmj.com





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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:51:15 -0000
From: "hawaiid_ro" <robinsonl002_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: stuck door & hood

Just pulled a car out of 10(+) years of storeage... question:
driver door and front hood stuck.  Any ideas on how to open?

Thanks,
David R




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 05:10:01 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Rack & Pinion determination

Hello again all...Those of you who have taken apart your rack & pinion
know there are 2 open bearings-one on top, one on the bottom-of the
shaft with the worm gear. It seems to me that the STEEL worm gear and
shaft will not wear out so very easily, so-it's the bearings that will
wear before anything else even comes close. I confirmed this on mine
by checking the wear on the bearings-sure enough only ONE (one closest
to the top) was worn and is causing my rack and pinion to function
very poorly with much play. The gears are absolutly fine with no wear
what so ever. Now, why am I going to spend almost 400 dollars plus a
core charge and shipping troubles for JUST ONE lousy bearing? It also
comes to my attention that there are a large amount of people willing
to sell me (regular people, not venders) used rack & pinions BUT ALSO
want my old core-this I thought was very odd. This only tells me that
there has got to be a cross reference for these bearings-there must
be. Why are we paying so much money just for a bearing replacement? I
refuse to pay this amount of money for 1 worn bearing-does anyone know
anything about these bearings? I am determined to find one that will
work-out of all the bearings being made in the world there will be one
similar!




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 05:27:08 -0000
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC #1629 on the road, again.

Dear List:

Thank you all for responding to my message.  It is great to know that 
I can get sound advice from all of you.  Ken did a terrific job on my 
car ... and in all, it has been very road worthy.

I took the advice to check the voltage, as well as add the wire 
change to the starter circuit.

I wanted to push the car to another location, and so I put the key in 
the ignition, moved the automatic shift lever to neutral, and planned 
to just move the car ... but I decided to try and start the car in 
neutral ... and it STARTED!

I let it idle, and slid the lever into park, FIRMLY, and the car 
continued to run.  I then turned off the car, and tried to turn it on 
again ... and it started.

The transmission must have been hung up between "park" 
and "reverse".  I see from the Service Bulletins that there is an 
updated shift lever for the automatic transmissions.  Should I worry 
about changing it soon?  Or, should I just be a little more 
aggressive with my shifting practices?

Once again, thank you for all your help.  It was very appreciated.

Ramon
#1629




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