From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1814
Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 5:17 AM

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. DeLorean rear spoiler
From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>

3. Be a part of the Delorean HOWTO project today!!!
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. BTTF.com launches new Online Store
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>

5. Re: Rack & Pinion determination
From: "Bryan Pearce" <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>

6. Re: Owners vs. The Insurance Companies
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

7. Re: Rack & Pinion determination
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: stuck door & hood
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Rack & Pinion determination
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. What to do?
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: DMC #1629 on the road, again.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Craig Radio Wire Harness Adapters
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Tranny identification
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 13:52:47 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster

Joe (and list),

Supposedly any locksmith can cut the keys by code if they have a 
computer cutter. You shouldn't -have- to mail or give them blanks but 
I am personally experiencing a lack of those blanks among my local 
locksmiths. I also declined to use them because I think $40-100.00 
for 5 minutes of work and a piece of potmetal is too expensive.

To my knowledge, DMCH will not only sell the blank, but have them cut 
for you if you request it.

PJ Grady may also but I have not specifically heard them say so, or 
heard of anyone else having them do it.

Ken Creason is on this list and he also does it for a very reasonable 
price. He also has the blanks so you don't need to mail them to him 
unless you want a DMC logo head reproduction key cut.

FYI: One compatible blank is the Ilco X29.

The nice thing about Ken, is I was able to contact him on a weekend, 
which saved me mail time.

I hope this helps,

Rich
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Where would one mail keys to to have them "cut" by code? What 
> necessary info would be needed? I have 2 Deloreans and I am 
tempting 
> fate by only having one working set for each. Have plenty of 
blanks, 
> but every time I try to use a hardware store they cut them with to 
> sharpe an edge to the keys and it will not turn in the cylinders. I 
> would rather just use my remaining DMC blanks and have them cut by 
a 
> pro. So where would I need to send them along with what information?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe O'Brien

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:17:09 -0500
From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>
Subject: DeLorean rear spoiler

I've had one on my car since 1982.  I used the Camero/TransAm one from the
same time period.  No 'ripple' on the supports for the wing though, looks
smoother in my opinion.  About $100.00 then and 15 minutes.  You need to add
the supports to the pistons to hold the deck up for mtce., etc.  Good luck!
Joe



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 06:33:32 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Be a part of the Delorean HOWTO project today!!!

Hello Delorean owners,

As phase two for the HOWTO has started to be
implimented ive had people who have asked how to
contribute to the HOWTO's.  For the record I will post
the following information for all to see to cover the
most important issues.  I am also accepting
translations for any of the howto's currently written.

   I)  Conforming to the standard for written HOWTO's

  Since all sorts of cool scripts have been written
here for bringing everything together, I am no longer
asking that anyone follow the old template Ive put
out.  This should simplify the process for folks who
do not have time or experiance for webpage building.

   II) Intellectual property of information.

  It should be understood that any information posted
(as in a HOWTO) shall cleary show the credit of the
author under the "performed by" column of the HOWTO. 
All Howto's shall be posted free for use for all in
the Delorean community, but not for commercial use.
(content cannot not be sold or used for profit)
Any and every reproduction of the HOWTO's (paper copy
etc) may be done complete and unmodified with the
authors credit in tact.

  III)  What to submit 

  Digital photos of 640x480 or greated resolution that
are clear along with a written instruction of the
project that is broken down into steps, attaching all
relevant pictures by picture file name to the
paragraph.  There is no such thing as sending me too
many pictures.  Ill work with the author to decide
placment for the pictures and text.

ex.

step 7: remove the 6 (8mm) bolts around the whatever.
with a picture of these botls in place and not in
place so the picture could be modified to show where
the bolts are/were.

 IIII) What not to submit

  The only howto's that will be accepted will be that
of unmodified work on the car. i.e. installing a wine
rack in the dashboard, or undercarreage neon lights
will not be accepted.  Safety opgrade modifications
will be accepted however.

If your up for the challenge, let me know, once I hot
50 howto's, they will be broken up into catagory.

Also, Depending on which company I purchase parts from
for a project is which company I list in the HOWTO. 
Its painfully obvious to see which 3 companies I buy
from regularly, though i pick no favorites.  This is
not a commercially endorsed project.


thanx,

happy new year,

jordan 11613



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 15:33:07 -0000
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: BTTF.com launches new Online Store

[Moderator Note: This post approved because many subscribers may be interested in the news.  Please address questions or comments to Mr. Clark or a BTTF related discussion board.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

Athens, Ala. -- BTTF.com, the leading online authority on the "Back 
to the Future" film series, is pleased to announce the launch of 
their brand new shopping experience: "BTTF.com's Time Travel 
Terminal".

The Time Travel Terminal sports the widest variety of "Back to the 
Future" collectibles, including the latest BTTF collectibles (such as 
the Welly & Sunstar DeLorean diecast models), as well a wide variety 
of classic memorabilia from yesteryear!

With items affordably priced for even the most casual fan as well as 
high-end items for the serious collector, BTTF.com's Time Travel 
Terminal is the one-stop shop for all your "Back to the Future" 
needs.  Visit the Terminal on the web at http://www.BTTF.net/ -- 
Where "Future" presents are no longer a thing of the past...

BTTF.com is an infotainment web site dedicated to the continued 
promotion of the "Back to the Future" series and the careers of its 
cast & crew through various online ventures and convention 
appearances. The site also offers writing and consulting services for 
companies merchandising new products from the wildly popular film 
series. 





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:37:42 -0600
From: "Bryan Pearce" <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination

I had to reply to this post as I recently had one of my steering racks
rebuilt by DMC in Texas.  

I also examined the point of failure in the rack and agree that most of
the play in the rack comes from the worn bearing at the top and bottom of
the worm gear.  I decided to send my rack to be rebuild because I didn't
want to take the time to do the research someone else had already done. 
When I received my steering rack back, I was shocked.  It looked and
performed like I was receiving a brand rack.  Not only were the bearings
replaced, but new rod ends and boots were installed and the entire unit
was refinished.

For such an important part of our cars for both safety and driving
satisfaction, I felt the cost was reasonable.

>I refuse to pay this amount of money for 1 worn bearing

Happy and safe New Year to all!

Bryan P.




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 16:01:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Owners vs. The Insurance Companies

As a follow up question to this subject, does anyone know why cars 
are towed to the impound yard after an accident? Is this a 
requirement, or simply a convenience for the parties involved?

The reason I ask is because if I were to be involved in a collision, 
I would want to have first crack at recording damage to my car for 
writing my own estimate, to challenge an insurance underwriter. So I 
would prefer to have the car returned to my home. This is especially 
important in Nevada, because if a vehicle's repair costs exceed 65% 
or more of it's stated/agreed value (excluding paint,and structural 
integrity), the car MUST be totalled by law, and CANNOT be re-
registered!

On the flip side, rather than having an insurance adjuster come out 
to estimate costs on a car, is it possible to record damage, perform 
the repairs myself (or by a licensed facility), and simply submit 
reciepts to an insurance company when I file a claim with them?

I know these are questions that my insurance company *should* know 
the answers to, but I wanted to get a general consensus from the 
group here for a comparison.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 16:25:58 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination

Economics. How much of your time (and what is it worth per hour) will 
it take to figure it all out? If you spend two days driving all over 
town, visiting machine shops, etc, the $350 for the rebuild is going 
to look pretty good (depends on how you value your own time). These 
vendors and "regular people" already spent the time and investment to 
figure it out, I would not expect them to give away that investment. 

This is the same argument that one can make about painting ones own 
car -if you have the time you can buy $250 worth of paint and do it, 
if you don't you pay the body man $3500. That doesn't make him a 
crook, you are paying for time, experience, and skill. If you can do 
it yourself go for it, but you can't fault the people who provide a 
service. If $350 was truly too expensive (i.e. if you could fix it 
with a $5 CarQuest bearing), nobody would pay it and the price would 
come down. 

Another thing to consider - many of these racks get really screwed up 
inside, i.e. rusty, so the rebuilder has to cover all the 
possibilities. It sounds like yours is not in too bad of shape. 

Dave S <--(rebuild most of my own stuff but I can see both sides of 
the argument)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hello again all...Those of you who have taken apart your rack & 
pinion
> know there are 2 open bearings-one on top, one on the bottom-of the
> shaft with the worm gear. It seems to me that the STEEL worm gear 
and
> shaft will not wear out so very easily, so-it's the bearings that 
will
> wear before anything else even comes close. I confirmed this on mine
> by checking the wear on the bearings-sure enough only ONE (one 
closest
> to the top) was worn and is causing my rack and pinion to function
> very poorly with much play. The gears are absolutly fine with no 
wear
> what so ever. Now, why am I going to spend almost 400 dollars plus a
> core charge and shipping troubles for JUST ONE lousy bearing? It 
also
> comes to my attention that there are a large amount of people 
willing
> to sell me (regular people, not venders) used rack & pinions BUT 
ALSO
> want my old core-this I thought was very odd. This only tells me 
that
> there has got to be a cross reference for these bearings-there must
> be. Why are we paying so much money just for a bearing replacement? 
I
> refuse to pay this amount of money for 1 worn bearing-does anyone 
know
> anything about these bearings? I am determined to find one that will
> work-out of all the bearings being made in the world there will be 
one
> similar!




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 17:08:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster

Look for Jesser Keys. They specialize in ALL things automotive. They
also advertise in Hemmings motor news and are at all the large car
shows. The codes can be read off of a good working key and sometimes
are found under the headliner on the driver's door. Of course any good
locksmith can cut keys, they usually maintain their copying machines
better than a hardware store. Try not to make copies from a copy, you
should have an origional put away and not used so you can copy it in
the future, cutting a key by code is usually more expensive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Where would one mail keys to to have them "cut" by code? What 
> necessary info would be needed? I have 2 Deloreans and I am tempting 
> fate by only having one working set for each. Have plenty of blanks, 
> but every time I try to use a hardware store they cut them with to 
> sharpe an edge to the keys and it will not turn in the cylinders. I 
> would rather just use my remaining DMC blanks and have them cut by a 
> pro. So where would I need to send them along with what information?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe O'Brien

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 17:16:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: stuck door & hood

Unlock the driver's door with the button inside and also try the key
outside. You should feel when it is unlocked. If you don't then the
locking linkage is either out of adjustment or came apart. If you can
feel it locking and unlocking then move it to the unlocked position.
Now with someone outside pulling on the handle (not too hard) and you
inside pulling on the release handle, try pushing the door open.
Sometimes if a door is out of adjustment it can get stuck and pushing
it may open it. Maybe a seat belt is caught in the door or the anchor
pins are way out of position. If this won't do it you will have to
remove the trim panel and try to move the linkage while forcing the
door open.
 For the hood  have someone pull the release handle while you try to
pull the hood up. If the cable is broken by the release handle there
is usually enough to grab with a vise-grip.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "hawaiid_ro" <robinsonl002_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Just pulled a car out of 10(+) years of storeage... question:
> driver door and front hood stuck.  Any ideas on how to open?
> 
> Thanks,
> David R




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 17:22:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination

It isn't quite as easy as you make it sound. A steering rack usually
wears only in the center of the rack. If you try to adjust (shim) the
play out at that point then it gets tight everywhere else. In addition
to replacing worn bearings it usually takes a regrind of the rack to
get it to have no play in the center AND at the ends. There are 2
systems on a car that you don't cheap out on. One is the Brakes and
the other is the Steering! A failure in either of these systems is
often deadly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hello again all...Those of you who have taken apart your rack & pinion
> know there are 2 open bearings-one on top, one on the bottom-of the
> shaft with the worm gear. It seems to me that the STEEL worm gear and
> shaft will not wear out so very easily, so-it's the bearings that will
> wear before anything else even comes close. I confirmed this on mine
> by checking the wear on the bearings-sure enough only ONE (one closest
> to the top) was worn and is causing my rack and pinion to function
> very poorly with much play. The gears are absolutly fine with no wear
> what so ever. Now, why am I going to spend almost 400 dollars plus a





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:23:35 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What to do?

Hi again everyone,
	I would like to get your input on which performance lowering springs I
should purchase for my car.  I want to make an informed decision and invest
my money wisely.  So far I've heard about four different methods of bringing
the car to the correct ride height.  Which method is the best performance
wise? And where do you suggest I purchase from? Thanks everyone!

Jon

#3215





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 17:34:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMC #1629 on the road, again.

Check the adjustment of the shift lever to the transmission. G:05:02
You could also have a wiring problem. Make sure the wires going to the
transmission from the plug on the firewall are securely fastened and
are not melted by the exhaust pipe. It is rare but possible you have a
problem with the start inhibit relay or it's wiring. M:07:02 #28 This
relay allows you to only engage the starter in Park or Neutral. It
could be a sticking switch in the transmission itself. It is a two
part switch, one part lights the back-up light, the other is the start
switch. The vin change in the shift handle should not cause this
problem so there is no reason to change it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Dear List:
> 
> Thank you all for responding to my message.  It is great to know that 
> I can get sound advice from all of you.  Ken did a terrific job on my 
> 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 21:30:34 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Craig Radio Wire Harness Adapters

For anyone who is looking to change out thier Craig radio with a new
modern one, and not wanting to cut thier original Delorean wire harness
I have the solution for you.
I came up with a batch of adapters for this application.
I only have about 20 of these on hand and I doubt I will be able to
get any more.
This harness adapter will let you plug into either end of your harness
or Craig radio. It has both a male and a female end, and can be cut in
half in the middle to be wired to your new radio.

The price is only $12.95 with instructions, wire code translations
and FREE shipping included.

Either e-mail me at videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com or go to my web site,
http://www.dfwdmc.com and go to STORE.

Thanks again!
- Videobob
VIN# 5278




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 22:39:36 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Great DeLorean Key Disaster

I had 2 cut today at a locksmith. They used 2 Volvo blanks.

The numbers on the blanks are VL5 (ignition) and X81 (door).

-----Original Message-----
> From: Scott McMullan [mailto:mcmullan_at_dml_n...]
> Sent: December 28, 2003 7:45 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] The Great DeLorean Key Disaster
> 
> 
> 
> > Has anyone had success getting copies made at their local hardware
> > store by using original keys or does everyone get theirs cut by 
code?
> 
> > I've had zero success finding a local hardware store or 
superstore that
> > carries the X29/VO73 key blank.
> > However, my favorite local locksmith stocks the blank, and has 
made
> > perfectly functioning copies of the one key I got with my car, 
and perfect
> > 2nd generation copies from the first one he cut for me.  Good 
thing, since I
> > don't have the code for my keys (the VIN numbers in my doors 
don't match my
> > car, or each other, so I don't trust the key codes I see there).
> >
> > I highly recommend you go to a small local locksmith for these 
keys.  YMMV,
> > but mine charged under $4 per key total.




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 18:26:21 -0500 EST
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Tranny identification

Hello All,

I bought a Delorean Transaxle for $406 USD and when I was looking at it 
today I noticed the end looks different then I remember. I took some 
pics of the linkage plate end of the tranny and posted them here: http:
//66.114.79.47/tranny/

could someone please take a look and tell me if this is indeed a 
Delorean tranny or some other kind of VERY similar tranny.

regards,

Michael
vin 6067



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