From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1820
Date: Sunday, January 04, 2004 4:51 AM

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: EBC Brake pad
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

4. Re: John Z's birthday
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

5. Re: Delorean Measurements
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

6. RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

7. Re: Cat problems
From: "Travis" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

8. Painting engine compartment/nearby items
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

9. 15W40 oil brand
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com>

10. carbon buildup
From: "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

11. RE: 15W40 oil brand
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: carbon buildup
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

14. RE: 15W40 oil brand
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

15. Re: 15W40 oil brand
From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>

16. Re: Re: carbon buildup
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

17. Re: carbon buildup
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. motor oil I like synthetic
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com

20. Re: ETDOC
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Rack & Pinion determination-Grady Reply
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Re: carbon buildup
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: 15W40 oil brand
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

24. Performance Chips
From: "grandprix9598" <grandprix9598_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 19:01:43 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...

NO!
I remember Gullwing Magazine answering this question last time and they 
said NO!




On Friday, January 2, 2004, at 08:48 AM, Kevin Abato wrote:

> Third time I will post this...still no answer yet:
> Is there a web site where we can preview the calendar before buying 
> it!?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com [mailto:gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:33 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
>
>
> REMINDER:  2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR!
>
> The 2003 DeLorean Calendar is now history!  Don't miss out on the 2004
> DeLorean Calendar!
>
> These are nice collectable items and the pictures are suitable for
> framing when you are done with the calendar.  This year's calendar
> includes custom DeLoreans, painted DeLoreans, DeLoreans in unique and
> interesting poses and beautiful background sceneries.  There's even a
> bonus cover photo that features a group shot of Ds with the WTC Twin
> Towers in the skyline.  Simply beautiful!
>
> The 12-month calendar is assembled like a booklet or magazine (no 
> spiral
> binding), 11 X 17 (open) glossy full-color photos with bleed to edge of
> page (no borders), for 8 1/2 X 11 (closed) frameable prints.



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 01:48:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: EBC Brake pad

I have known of these for some time and priced them up a while ago too - 
DeLorean calipers are not specific. The general consensus is that on 
DeLoreans the wear time is unacceptable (for greenstuff) and 
considerably more expensive. The only real advantage is the lack of 
dusting - which for someone with early grey wheels like mine, this is 
extremely attractive!

Martin
#1458

ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Hello list,
>
>         I just let Delorean owners know EBC brake has brake pads for 
>Delorean.
>http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/
>  
>





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 19:52:09 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey

Erik,

Can you post some pictures of those BTTF items.

BOB




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 19:54:32 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: John Z's birthday

Hopefully,  JZD monitors the  DML.  

Happy Birthday from all of your loyal Delorean owners!!!







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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 19:54:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Measurements

Shannon,
Precisely which measurements of the car's body do you
want?I'm happy to measure any part of the car for you
but need to know specifics.
Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia.
--- birdwell77095 <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net> wrote:
> Does anyone have detailed measurements of the body
> of a Delorean? I 
> can find on the web general measurements such as
> width, height, etc. 
> But I need detailed measurements of the body.
> Thanks.
> 
> Shannon



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 20:01:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...

Kevin,
I do believe Ron and Cheryl did answer your question
last time.I remember reading it.Perhaps you didn't get
the E-Mail but they said they don't have a web site to
view the calender but can be reached via their E-Mail
address to field any questions about the calender.
Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia.
--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:
> Third time I will post this...still no answer yet:
> Is there a web site where we can preview the
> calendar before buying it!?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 04:02:08 -0000
From: "Travis" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cat problems

you can spray orange cleaner on the tarp and put tin foil on the part 
of the tarp that is being scratched or maybe double sided tape as 
they hate the above and sticky surfaces.








--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> One of the oldest and most humane methods is to just put a few
> mothballs (camphor) under the car. It will keep EVERYTHING away
> including cats, bugs, squirrels, mice, etc. Spread them out under 
the
> car and keep the doors and windows closed.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > Try one of those ultrasonic pet repellers.   They are silent yet
> keep most 
> > animals away from things they shouldn't be in to.   Check online, 
I
> think most 
> > stores like Wal-Mart have them, but check first.
> > 
> > Patrick
> > 1880
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 08:27:15 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Painting engine compartment/nearby items

Hello,

Is it necessary to use a high temp paint to paint the engine cover 
hinges/engine cover/engine compartment?  I was going to use ACE STOP 
RUST gloss and flat black enamel.

thanks!

Matt
#1604




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:51:44 -0500
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com>
Subject: 15W40 oil brand


I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a
difficult time locating 15W40 oil.  As it turns out, they only seem to carry
one brand of that weight, and only in gallons.  I've never heard of this oil
brand (began with an R, forget the full name).  The package had a yellow
shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell Oil,
and distributed under a strange name?

While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use
in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or
another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known
ones.

I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to
see.




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:18:35 -0600
From: "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: carbon buildup

Bill Robertson wrote:

> Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to
> burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder
> volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red
> hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate.

Does anybody know the name of the stuff to decarbonize one's engine? I
recall somebody saying it comes in a can, and the engine runs off of the can
for a minute or two (belching out great plumes of stuff). I don't ask
because I want to burn a different fuel ... My engine seems to run well on
89 octane fuel -- fine with me but it'd be nice to burn out the junk. With
close to 90,000 miles I suspect it should be about time for this especially
since I don't know what happened before I bought the thing.

Regards and Happy 2004,
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 10:51:38 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 15W40 oil brand

I don't know why this keeps coming up since it is defined in the manual....
unless you live far north, near Alaska, deep Canada or where the temp is 
usually below zero you should just use 20/50 as it suggests in the manual.
Here in Texas it stays pretty warm except for early mornings where I have 
seen it get below
zero this year, but I am usually not tooling around in my car at 4AM when it 
is 27 degrees out.

If you review your owners manual, or a workshop book you will see that the 
grades are
listed by temperature.
10/30, 15/40 and 20/40 are listed for temps below 14F.
Anything above that would be 20/50.

Save yourself some trouble and pick a good name brand of oil, Penzz, Mobil, 
etc.. and buy
8 quarts, or 2 gallons of that.

Make sure to get some new copper crush washers:
( 16mm or 5/8" copper) (Oil-Tite: 65273) ....for the drain plug or it might 
leak.
You can get them free with oil filters when you buy them from John 
(specialtauto.com).

So unless you are skidding the tundra today, I would use 20/50.
- Videobob
VIN# 5278


>
>I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a
>difficult time locating 15W40 oil.  As it turns out, they only seem to 
>carry
>one brand of that weight, and only in gallons.  I've never heard of this 
>oil
>brand (began with an R, forget the full name).  The package had a yellow
>shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell 
>Oil,
>and distributed under a strange name?
>
>While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use
>in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or
>another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known
>ones.
>
>I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to
>see.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Take advantage of our limited-time introductory offer for dial-up Internet 
access. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:54:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: carbon buildup

It is called "Engine Top End Cleaner". I don't remember who makes it.
It seems since the introduction of catalytic converters it is hard to
find this anymore. I am guessing but it probably wasn't any good for
the converters so it is no longer available. You might find some old
stock if you look hard enough. If you have always used modern gasoline
then it isn't much of a concern anymore. On all the motors I have
taken apart they don't carbon up like they used to with the older gas.
Unless the rings are shot and you are burning large quantities of oil
you shouldn't need to do it. I DO suggest you have the fuel injectors
cleaned. A dirty injector with a bad spray pattern will affect
performance. You can't do it with a can of stuff in the fuel tank. The
injectors MUST come off and be done in a tester. You can also pull the
spark plugs. They can tell you a lot about how the motor is inside and
how it is running. If they are all caked up with carbon then you know
you have problems. Generally they come out nice and tan except for
wear on the electodes. Always cheaper to replace but they too can be
cleaned and regapped if not too worn or cracked.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Bill Robertson wrote:
> 
> > Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to
> > burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder
> > volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red
> > hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate.
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:01:35 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...

My apologies.  Somehow I DID miss their reply in the past.

Thanks! (and sorry!)  ;)

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Prentis [mailto:aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...


Kevin,
I do believe Ron and Cheryl did answer your question
last time.I remember reading it.Perhaps you didn't get
the E-Mail but they said they don't have a web site to
view the calender but can be reached via their E-Mail
address to field any questions about the calender.
Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia.
--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:
> Third time I will post this...still no answer yet:
> Is there a web site where we can preview the
> calendar before buying it!?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:57:47 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: 15W40 oil brand

When you buy a name brand motor oil, Chevron, Pennzoil, ect, you are buying
the additive package.

In college, we ran experiments with various oils that all had the same
SAE/API minimum specifications.

The house brand/generic low cost oils would loose there lubricating
properties sooner than the major brand oils.

Do not go cheap on your motor oil.  Use a name brand petroleum based oil and
change the oil and filter frequently.  The Technical reference guide states
that you should use API Service SF, above 10F, 20w/40 or 20w/50 and below
10F, use 10w/50.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: Scott McMullan [mailto:mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] 15W40 oil brand



I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a
difficult time locating 15W40 oil.  As it turns out, they only seem to carry
one brand of that weight, and only in gallons.  I've never heard of this oil
brand (began with an R, forget the full name).  The package had a yellow
shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell Oil,
and distributed under a strange name?

While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to use
in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or
another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known
ones.

I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to
see.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:02:30 -0500
From: "Mr. Woop Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil brand

It's called Rotella T 15w40 Universal Motor Oil 15w40.

It's the only oil we use when we have to change the oil on diesel engined
trucks...

And yes it is made by shell.
I've heard from many oldschool customers that its pretty good oil...


Rex

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan_at_dml_netaxs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 10:51 AM
Subject: [DML] 15W40 oil brand


>
> I was looking through a local Pep Boys store the other day, and had a
> difficult time locating 15W40 oil.  As it turns out, they only seem to
carry
> one brand of that weight, and only in gallons.  I've never heard of this
oil
> brand (began with an R, forget the full name).  The package had a yellow
> shell on it, so I wonder if maybe the oil is actually produced by Shell
Oil,
> and distributed under a strange name?
>
> While I know there are many conflicting ideas about what kind of oil to
use
> in the PRV, I was wondering if anyone had a strong opinion one way or
> another about using an oddball oil brand, as opposed to the better known
> ones.
>
> I had no trouble finding the GTLMA fluid for my clutch, which was nice to
> see.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:22:18 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: carbon buildup

I was getting oil for my outboard motor and they had this type of 
product for sale at the local Johnson Outboard Motor Retailer near my 
house. I remember it was a spray you choked the engine with, let it sit 
for a while, start it up and it would smoke like hell till all 
deposit's were burnt out, i am sure they sell it at your local Outboard 
Boat Motor Retail center.

Mark


On Saturday, January 3, 2004, at 10:54 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> It is called "Engine Top End Cleaner". I don't remember who makes it.
> It seems since the introduction of catalytic converters it is hard to
> find this anymore. I am guessing but it probably wasn't any good for
> the converters so it is no longer available. You might find some old
> stock if you look hard enough. If you have always used modern gasoline
> then it isn't much of a concern anymore. On all the motors I have
> taken apart they don't carbon up like they used to with the older gas.
> Unless the rings are shot and you are burning large quantities of oil
> you shouldn't need to do it. I DO suggest you have the fuel injectors
> cleaned. A dirty injector with a bad spray pattern will affect
> performance. You can't do it with a can of stuff in the fuel tank. The
> injectors MUST come off and be done in a tester. You can also pull the
> spark plugs. They can tell you a lot about how the motor is inside and
> how it is running. If they are all caked up with carbon then you know
> you have problems. Generally they come out nice and tan except for
> wear on the electodes. Always cheaper to replace but they too can be
> cleaned and regapped if not too worn or cracked.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins_at_dml_u...> wrote:
>> Bill Robertson wrote:
>>
>>> Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to
>>> burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder
>>> volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow 
>>> red
>>> hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:15:08 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: carbon buildup

Napa Sells it with their name on it or 3M makes and it is also at NAPA....The 
3M brand is about $35 for the can and it hooks up to a pressure guage and 
your engine runs on it for 5 min.

Mike C


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 20:22:04 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey

I've posted all but my ear wax remover on my homepage.  

http://www.drunkonthemoon.com/d_items.htm

Its in a box at my parents house right now.  I'll post it when I go 
there next.

Erik



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Erik,
> 
> Can you post some pictures of those BTTF items.
> 
> BOB




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 15:36:52 -0500
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: motor oil I like synthetic

I like synthetic oil. The manual in my BMW's advise to use only Mobil One or BMW synthetic. Their is a myth that you can go for longer oil change intervals. The technician at the BMW dealer advise that it is good measure to change every three months or three thousand miles. 
I use 5w40 BMW synthetic in the 2001 740iL.  10w40 MobilOne synthetic in all of my cars. Some of the BMW club members that track their cars at auto courses love AMSOIL products.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack
Severna Park Maryland




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 17:24:18 EST
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: ETDOC

Hey, yes definately we (ETDOC) do still exist. And yes, you are correct the 
website is way overdue for updates. We are going to get that back inline 
shortly. Also, we are in the beginning stages of planning our next event. It's real 
prelimenary right now, but there is a possibilty of going to a large road 
course track (over 3 miles long). When I know more I will let everyone know. ETDOC 
still lives, but as always, we are as unorganized as they come and proud of 
it. Will let you know when plans materialize, and yes come to Pigeon Forge for 
the big show. 

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 23:10:31 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination-Grady Reply

Rob has some difficulty getting this to the list and asked me to post 
the reply... Dave S

-----------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "PJ Grady Info" <info_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
To: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 6:58 PM
Subject: RE: Talks to God


I understand your dilemma. To the best of my knowledge the bearing is 
what is known as a "special". This is commonly done in the auto 
business by factories to keep people from putting generic components 
in their assemblies. There are many reasons for this.
1)The first obviously is greed. They want your future business on the 
components they manufacture.
2) Conversely this also helps the company to stay in business which 
is usually a good thing.
3) This is especially common with steering and suspension components 
because the company has your safety and their reputation as a top 
priority.
4) The quality of bearings and such varies greatly and this helps the 
company to control the safe repair and use of the product.
5) Equally important this helps control who rebuilds the components 
as the controlled distribution of repair parts also prequalifies who 
will rebuild these safety critical items.
Years ago I disassembled a new steering rack and had all of the 
bearings, bushings, preloader springs and shims manufactured from 
scratch. By far the most expensive parts were the bearings so I had 
to make 200 bearing assemblies for it to be cost effective. The high 
grade of steel we used had to be machined, heat treated to c60 
(that's hard!) and then ground to final dimensions. Heat treating to 
this hardness requires precalculation of the shrinkage rate or your 
new parts are now scrap! I spent many thousands of dollars to have 
all these parts manufactured. If you have a worn bearing then I 
assure you your rack will need other parts such as boots, a pinion 
seal and internal bushings. One of the reasons (besides the money I
invested) I haven't sold these parts individually is to protect 
people from poor and incomplete repairs on the most important safety 
item in their car.
I have sold racks to people who had bought them from at least two of 
the other major vendors because these assemblies were of poor 
quality. If you can't get a quality part from these guys what chance 
do you or even your mechanic have of doing a quality repair. PJ 
Grady's is the only vendor who rebuilds their racks in house using 
all new bearings, seals, bushings, preload shims and springs. Someone 
correct me if I'm wrong. Because our racks are forty five dollars 
higher than Houston's we have watched our sales of this part plummet 
in the last year or so. We went through our first 100
racks (200 Bearings) in about 3 years which I felt was sustainable on 
an investment verses return basis. If sales don't pick up I will 
either 
A) Discontinue manufacturing these parts as I use up existing stock 
or 
B) Offer them as a rebuild kit complete with rebuild instructions. 
The problem with
B) goes back to reason number 5. We lose all control of who rebuilds 
the rack and also the quality of the reusable core parts i.e. the 
rack body, pinion and rack bar. We reject about half the cores we 
receive because of pitting of the gears, housing damage etc. Our 
racks are rebuilt by my shop foreman who has many years of 
experience. You can put your life in his hands I guarantee it! Is 
that worth the extra forty five dollars?  My ad for this part says it 
all "when your car won't steer, just remember, the good racks are 
here. Since many of you don't apparently think so I have decided to
decrease the price to match Houston's. If that doesn't help I just 
won't bother making them any more. I know the poor economy plays a 
part in this.
I've seen my sales on stainless radiator screens and life time 
guarantee tail light circuit boards drop as well (which no one else 
makes). Would anybody care if I stopped producing these parts? Please 
give me some feedback on this.I need to make some decisions.

Why did "Talks to God" ignore George Caprita's post about his 
experience with a rebuilt rack. I guess he only talks to God. 
Unfortunately George didn't tell him who he purchased his rebuilt 
rack from nor all the problems
he found inside it. Isn't anybody brave on this list? That's ok I 
won't tell either. I have more to lose than an owner does after all I 
have a DeLorean business. Several other people on this list have had 
similar problems with other vendors (are you listening Christian 
etc? - and what about your experiences Knut?) but no one speaks 
up...or it doesn't get past the moderators. I'll have more to say on 
this and other subjects at a later date.

Happy New Year

Rob Grady
______________________________

www.info(AT)pjgrady.com


--------------------

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hello again all...Those of you who have taken apart your rack & 
pinion
> know there are 2 open bearings-one on top, one on the bottom-of the
> shaft with the worm gear. It seems to me that the STEEL worm gear 
and
> shaft will not wear out so very easily, so-it's the bearings that 
will
> wear before anything else even comes close. I confirmed this on mine
> by checking the wear on the bearings-sure enough only ONE (one 
closest
> to the top) was worn and is causing my rack and pinion to function
> very poorly with much play. The gears are absolutly fine with no 
wear
> what so ever. Now, why am I going to spend almost 400 dollars plus a
> core charge and shipping troubles for JUST ONE lousy bearing? It 
also
> comes to my attention that there are a large amount of people 
willing
> to sell me (regular people, not venders) used rack & pinions BUT 
ALSO
> want my old core-this I thought was very odd. This only tells me 
that
> there has got to be a cross reference for these bearings-there must
> be. Why are we paying so much money just for a bearing replacement? 
I
> refuse to pay this amount of money for 1 worn bearing-does anyone 
know
> anything about these bearings? I am determined to find one that will
> work-out of all the bearings being made in the world there will be 
one
> similar!




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 23:41:10 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: carbon buildup

The stuff you refer to, Dave Stragand brought over to our little 
Maryland tech session. It hooks to a pressure gauge rig to the supply 
side of the fuel distro. Plug the return side. Pop the inertia switch 
to shut off the fuel pump.

Ask Dave Stragand for the actual brand name.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins_at_dml_u...> 
wrote:
> Bill Robertson wrote:
> 
> > Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice 
but to
> > burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder
> > volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they 
glow red
> > hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate.
> 
> Does anybody know the name of the stuff to decarbonize one's 
engine? I
> recall somebody saying it comes in a can, and the engine runs off 
of the can
> for a minute or two (belching out great plumes of stuff). I don't 
ask
> because I want to burn a different fuel ... My engine seems to run 
well on
> 89 octane fuel -- fine with me but it'd be nice to burn out the 
junk. With
> close to 90,000 miles I suspect it should be about time for this 
especially
> since I don't know what happened before I bought the thing.
> 
> Regards and Happy 2004,
> Farrar Hudkins
> New Orleans, LA




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 19:15:04 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil brand

In a message dated 1/3/04 12:16:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com writes:
Do not go cheap on your motor oil.  Use a name brand petroleum based oil and
change the oil and filter frequently.  The Technical reference guide states
that you should use API Service SF, above 10F, 20w/40 or 20w/50 and below
10F, use 10w/50.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
<<<<<<<<<<
Interesting how all three manuals give different information:
Workshop manual:

above 14F:
15w40, 20w40, 20w50

below 14F:
15w40, 10w30, 5w20

Technical Info manual (from above post)

above 10F:
20w40, 20w50

below 10F
10w50

Owner's Manual ('82):

above 64F
20w50

2F-102F
10w20, 10w30, 10w40, 15w40, 20w40

Why can't any information here agree?  Personally, i have been using mobil 
10w40, but i think i might go to mobil 1 15W40 next season.  At least the 15W40 
is listed for summertime temperatures in the owner's manual AND the Workshop 
manual.  I fear that 20W50 may be a little too thick for those of us in the 
upper part of the US, even if we don't drive our cars in the winter time.  there 
are many days even in the summer when the temps go below 64F at night.  Not 
only that, but a thicker oil will make it harder to get good gas mileage or 
maximum performance on a low compression non-race engine such as our PRV's (though 
I have to admit that the PRV is a 'loose' engine and could benefit from a 
thicker oil/longer drain intervals).  

any other thoughts?  has anyone switched grades each season or oil change to 
note performance or starting differences?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 02:12:15 -0000
From: "grandprix9598" <grandprix9598_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Performance Chips

Hey all,

I know this isn't directly related to a DeLorean, but I keep seeing 
performance chips on sale for cars. Do they really work, or add any 
performance that is noticeable?
Thanks

Dave L.
Overseas in Operation Iraqi Freedom




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