From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1832
Date: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:25 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Correction: Further PRV History
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Frozen Comments
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

3. New De Lorean owner/battery question
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. DMCH headlight upgrade (WAS: RE: Re: "Dummy" buttons...)
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Grady "Resold" parts. (WAS: RACK UPDATE)
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Red DeLorean in Bethlehem - Gold plated one?
From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>

7. Re: RACK UPDATE
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Collector's Car loan
From: Scooby <chinatown_film_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

10. Swaying
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Swaying
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Collector's Car loan
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

13. MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
From: "warren" <kodo_at_dml_tayloredsystems.com>

14. uk no. plate DMC 800V FOR SALE
From: "westleymills2003" <westleymills2003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

15. RE: DMCH headlight upgrade (WAS: RE: Re: "Dummy" buttons...)
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Red DeLorean in Bethlehem - Gold plated one?
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: vahottub_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: New De Lorean owner/battery question
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

21. Re: Collector's Car loan
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Collector's Car loan
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. RE: Collector's Car loan
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

24. Re: Swaying
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

25. Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 05:55:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Correction: Further PRV History

Compared to a common camshaft inside the block, PRV camshafts are
definitely up top SOMEWHERE!

Speaking of which: hydraulic lifters in a traditional cam in block
design never need to be adjusted -- who says later engine designs are
necessarily superior to earlier ones? Do not confuse the mere forward
progression of time with actual progress.

Hollow pushrods from hydraulic lifters also seem to do the best job of
lubricating a valve train -- each valve has its own guaranteed oil supply.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve Abbott" <abbotts_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Bill
> 
> You'll no doubt want to pelt me with rocks or something for being a 
> total nit-picking smart ass after this :) 
> Because it uses rockers the PRV is (strictly speaking) a "cam in 
> head" design. A true OHC should operate directly on the valves, via 
> bucket tappets or somesuch.
> 
> Cheers
> Steve Abbott
> 
>  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > One correction after re-reading the original post:
> > 
> >PRV heads are conventional construction, albeit overhead cam rather
> > than overhead valve.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> >




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 01:31:56 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Frozen Comments

In a message dated 1/11/2004 10:29:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> I too thought I would get my D out into the cold. Here in NJ the 
> temp was up to 12F (record lows) but the sun was out and otherwise 
> beautiful.
> 

Yes, a nice change from last year's snows.  I don't drive my D on salt or ice 
so most winters I end up parking it for weeks.  Last winter it was months.  
:-(  
It's been great driving it daily for weeks!
Wayne  
Bridgeton, NJ
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 05:59:27 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New De Lorean owner/battery question

Hello, I am a new owner of a 1981, black interior delorean VIN# 
2256. This is my first Delorean; its not in the best of shape, but 
it was all that I could find at the moment. Right now it doen't run, 
but I am hoping to get it running in the next few months. I wanted 
to drop in and say hi to all the other owners and ask a question. 
What battery would you recommend for a Delorean? I bought an Optima 
red top with a CA of 980 and a CCA of 800, but the check battery 
light is still on. I heard that it would be best to find a battery 
with 1000 cca or more. Any more advice for first time owners would 
be welcome as well. Thanks.

Jason




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 22:38:13 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: DMCH headlight upgrade (WAS: RE: Re: "Dummy" buttons...)

i got the xeon (i think) upgrade from DMCH one late night and am very happy
with them.  they are nice and bright and  extremly durable.  they did not
look damaged even after someone pulled out in front of me and crunched the
front of my car (-3" to 4" on passanger side)

Darkstar
-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: January 11, 2004 4:56 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: "Dummy" button's in the center console


The cruise control on the dummy switches would be a fine idea. I
wouldn't know how to implement this though. Any thoughts people? Is
there such a kit?

Re, headlights: I do realize that our headlights are 20 years out of
date but I also notice that most other cars don't care if the hi-
beams are on or not. I strongly suspect that this is also due to how
low to the ground we are. Our headlights are at the level of some
other folks' down-low-driving-lights.

Let's put it this way: I am positively blinded by most people's lo-
beams.

Rich A.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drhdmc12" <drhdmc12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> On my solo trip from Houston to Denver in vin 3254 I thought about
a
> lot of different things here are the highlights:
>
>
> 4. My headlights stink, after a while I ran with my brights on and
> nobody seemed to care. I guess I was too low and the SUV's and 18
> wheelers were out my bright lights range?






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:10:48 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Grady "Resold" parts. (WAS: RACK UPDATE)

It is no secret that many of the parts Grady sells are sourced from 
DMCH.  So, one would ask "Why buy it from Grady if I can get it from 
DMCH directly?".

Speaking for MYSELF ONLY, I have seen the quality of parts Rob has 
received from DMCH myself just my luck of timing (I was at the shop 
when a box was opened) and was quite amazed at the poor quality 
of "NOS" parts that were received.  I thought for sure, these parts 
were shipped by DMCH in error.  Rob was very quiet about the 
situation, but did not seem surprised at all...  However, He was 
reluctant to talk about it, for reasons I can only assume have to do 
with not wanting to "bad mouth" the competition.

I continue to purchase all of my parts though Rob, even if I know he 
is sourcing them from DMCH.  Frankly, I don't care where he gets them 
because I know when it arrives at my doorstep it will be the correct 
part, and meet the highest quality standards possible.  If he gets 
the part from DMCH and it is poor quality, I know he will "filter" it 
out and make sure what I get lives up to his reputation.

Maybe DMCH should consider purchasing their racks from Rob?  While 
they are at it, they can buy the correct size door pistons from him 
too.  And for those DMCH customers who want more than 6 increments of 
fuel level, Tankzilla will do the trick.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, george caprita <dobedoc2000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Group: There seems to be a lot of confusion about my rack post. Not 
enough detail, will try to clear it up. On 7/17/03, I ordered a 
rebuilt rack from
> DMC Humble, Texas. Before installing, I moved it lock to lock. It 
was hard to

<SNIP>

> he asked why I didn't get it from him? I said because it was $45.00
> cheaper. I assumed he got his from them and resold them. I got an
> education for that remark!!! Got parts, put in rack, installed on 
car;
<SNIP>





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:14:15 -0500
From: "Fedeli, Joe (DSCP)" <Joe.Fedeli_at_dml_dla.mil>
Subject: Red DeLorean in Bethlehem - Gold plated one?

Kevin,

	This or the 'other DeLorean' might be the one of the lost gold
plated DeLorean's I personally saw & touched there many years ago (over 15)
that was the owners'.  The gold DeLorean was in poor shape and not running,
but he supposedly had two DeLoreans in talking to the manager.  The gold one
was parked in the front on the far left side as I recall.  I do not remember
the VIN of either.  Maybe it was painted red?  The gold was almost worn off
due to it being trailered with a cover on it as I recall he stated to me.
Good luck on your search!

Joe
E. Greenville, PA 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 8:23 PM
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:09:31 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Red Painted Delorean hiding in Bethlehem PA?

Here is something interesting.
 
A person I work with claims to have spotted a Red Painted Delorean at a
furniture store in Bethlehem PA.  Supposedly the owner keeps the
Delorean and another car IN the back of the store for safe keeping.   It
is allegedly the original owner, etc......
 
If someone in that area wants to check it out, or provide me (and the
list) with more info, below is what I have from my co-worker.
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
 
Original Message:
***********************************************
Unclaimed Freight furniture store 
2260 Industrial Dr 
Bethlehem, PA 

The Store is located on US rt 22 and Airport rd. 

Once your in the store, go back to the far left hand corner.  The car is
parked behind some furniture and cardboard dividers.




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 12:53:23 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: RACK UPDATE

I would also be inclined to agree that the rack left the shop by 
accident.

I hate to say it, but I would not have taken the rack apart. You had 
just bought it and I'm sure DMCH had at least some kind of short 
warranty on it, which you voided as soon as you let your friend take 
it apart. I would have just called right away and told them it was a 
navigational hazard and requested a swap.

I'm an electronics/computer/telecom nerd who's pretty good with all 
manner of electronics. When I buy a TV from Circuit City and it 
doesn't work, just because I know 'tronics I don't take it apart and 
then ask for a refund. After all, they have no idea what I've done to 
the TV or what my qualifications are.

You might end up biting the bullet on that one.

Rich A.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, george caprita <dobedoc2000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Group: There seems to be a lot of confusion about my rack post. Not 
enough detail, will try to clear it up. On 7/17/03, I ordered a 
rebuilt rack from
> DMC Humble, Texas. Before installing, I moved it lock to lock. It 
was hard to
> move, noisey, and "sticky" in some places. I called DMC and talked 
to the
> rebuilder; he said it was normal, to install it, connect tie rods 
and try it
> then. I did,aligned wheels and drove it. It steered worse than my 
old one.
> Hard to steer with excessive play at center. Now my friend, Gary, 
gets
> involved. He said we should have it taken apart--we did. It was a 
mess
> (details in letter to DMC following this). Gary then called DMC and 
talked
> to the same man I did, asking him what they did to rebuild a rack. 
After he
> finished, Gary told him we had a problem with one we got from him 
and had it
> taken apart. He said, "Oh no, you shouldn't have done that!". He 
said to
> reassemble it and send it back.
> In the meantime, I found a used one that Josh Haldeman had for sale 
in
> Cincinnati. We went to get it and took the DMC rack (not assembled 
yet) to
> show it to him. He agreed -- not acceptable! He said we should take 
his
> apart, make sure it is OK, if not, bring it back. Got back, built 
crate,
> assembled rack, sent to DMC. A week later checked used rack, big
> difference. Plenty of oil, nothing showed wear; gears shiny, tube 
clean,
> inner and outer tie rods, tension disc, seal all good- except pinion
> bearings had rust on them from condensation(?) Could have cleaned 
them up,
> but Gary said replace them. He called P.J. Grady and was told they 
normally
> don't sell rack parts, but would send them. Then Gary said it's all 
apart,
> let's replace all the parts. So I called Grady, told him about the 
DMC rack;
> he asked why I didn't get it from him? I said because it was $45.00
> cheaper. I assumed he got his from them and resold them. I got an
> education for that remark!!! Got parts, put in rack, installed on 
car;
> drove car two times, put in storage. This spring get car out, take 
rack off,
> send to Grady to get it done right. Will never try this again!! 
Sorry,
> Josh, Gary screwed up your perfectly good rack!! (I'm not taking 
all the
> heat for this one!) The day I shipped rack, got notice the core was
> credited to my card. As of this date, have not received explanation 
or
> refund from DMC. Copy of the letter to DMC follows:
> 
> > October 22, 2003
> >
> > DeLorean Motor Company
> > 15023 Eddie Drive
> > Humble, Texas 77396 USA
> >
> > RE: Invoice #81663 Invoice Date: 07-17-03
> >
> > Dear DMC:
> > I called your company and talked to the rebuilder about noise and
> stiffness,
> > tie rod ends were not the same--one had wire ties on boot. He 
said to
> leave
> > it on and mount wheels and turn rack wtih them on; said noise and
> stiffness
> > were normal. I did this but it was not much better. I connected 
steering
> > wheel, moved rack through full range wheels off ground, not very
> reassuring.
> > Aligned wheels, drove car. Steering was worse than old rack, hard 
to turn
> > left to right on sharp turning, excessive play at center. Effort 
to move
> > left or right from center.
> > Removed rack, took it to friend who is a parts manager for
> Ford/Honda/Subaru
> > and asked if they could disassemble it to determine if it had a 
problem.
> I
> > was called to come in and see what was found. The gear rack, two 
or three
> > teeth showed some wear but was deemed serviceable. The bearings 
each had
> > one dark, slightly pitted undersize ball-.003. The cups showed 
wear on
> the
> > radius-borderline serviceable. The pinion is heavily pitted, lower
> bearing
> > shaft surface of pinion is.020-undersize and worn on a taper! Not
> > serviceable. Inside of gear rack tube is dirty, rusted, and no 
oil in it.
> > Removed one inner tie rod (on driver side), it had oil in it with 
some
> spots
> > of rust. Disc had wear on one side, oil hole was plugged solid. 
Retaining
> > nuts had no pin installed. Right side not removed but oil hole 
was also
> > plugged and no pin. Hole in tube for pre-load bushing is so 
corroded it
> > cannot move freely. Only new parts found: mismatched tie rod 
ends -
> > pre-load bushing- boots.
> > With your company's integrity and reputation for excellence, I am 
certain
> > that this rack, in this condition, left your shop by mistake. I 
have been
> > on the "list"
> > for about six months and have yet to read a negative comment 
about your
> > porducts. I have since acquired a used rack in good condition and
> > Honda/Subaru is rebuilding it for me.
> > I request you return my old rack (it can't be as bad as this one, 
with
> only
> > 30K miles on it) along with a full refund, please.
> > Sincerely,
> > George Caprita
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:47:26 +0000 (GMT)
From: Scooby <chinatown_film_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Collector's Car loan

Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them regarding a loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people have had luck going through credit unions.  This is their reply:
 
"This is in response to your e-mail concerning a loan on a 1983 collectable car. First you would need to obtain a written appraisal for the car. This loan would be considered a signature loan . Loan terms would be for 48 months with a 11.99% to 18% interest rate.Thank you, Chartway e-Banking"
 
Is this normal practice having a written appraisal / interest rate high in your experience?
 
Thanks.


---------------------------------
  Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends today! Download Messenger Now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:26:42 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach

My experience with automobiles has shown me that the speedometer 
normally taps into the transmission via a cable with a plastic gear.

The transmission is always throwing around lubricant inside, 
lubricating the gear. Speedometer failure is fairly rare in other 
cars.

On the casing of the DeLorean manual transmission I noticed 
a "blanking plug" that looked like a point where your typical 
speedometer cable would go. For those of you familiar with the other 
applications of the DeLorean transmission, is that what this is for? 

Did other vehicles tap the transmission for the speedometer?
Isn't running a speeometer cable through the frame feasible?
What are the automatic transmissions like? Do they have a tie-in 
point for a speedometer cable?

I'm no concours competitor but I try to keep my car stock when I can. 
I realize this is a big departure from that. I'm hoping DMCH's new 
angle drive is more reliable. If not, this is a change I would 
consider making if possible.

I look forward to your comments.

Rich A.




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:56:07 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Swaying

Up until recently, my DeLorean had really bad steering due to front-
end corrosion and half-hearted amatuer repairs. In accordance with my 
budget, I've had metal replaced by an experienced metal 
fabricator/welder. The last thing I had done was to have the steering 
rack anchored to keep it from sliding in the bushings. It ain't 
stock, and it ain't pretty but it's correct, safe and solid.

When I drove at speed, certain bumps in the road would make it feel 
as though the car was trying to climb out of the lane. I attributed 
this to the steering rack sliding in the bushings.

Now that everything is firmly set in the front-end, the sway is very 
slight, but still there. The steering does not pull to either side. 
The column bushing is in good shape. The sway almost, (but not 
absolutely) feels like the rear-end is trying to sashay out of the 
lane.

Is this a trailing arm issue? My bolts were pulled and checked. They 
were not bent but they had obviously been worked on in the past as 
one of them was non-standard hardware (replaced it). Could the shims 
being improperly installed cause this sway? If the shims were 
improperly installed, would an alignment shop be able to tell where 
and how many to install?

Am I on the wrong track entirely? I want to install new tie-rod ends 
but like I said, my steering isn't pulling to either side, and it's 
reasonably tight, very little slop. I've yanked on my front wheels 
and they have no rattle or slop (up/down/side-to-side).

I hope I'm making sense.

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:20:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Swaying

You were missing shims altogether on one side (can't remember which --
sorry). Do not know if that was for proper alignment or just because
they fell out. Sounds like time for a 4 wheel alignment (specs on
pages H:08:01 and K:08:01 of tech manual).

Your passenger splash guard needs to come off anyway to relocate the
parking brake cable.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Up until recently, my DeLorean had really bad steering due to front-
> end corrosion and half-hearted amatuer repairs. In accordance with my 
> budget, I've had metal replaced by an experienced metal 
> fabricator/welder. The last thing I had done was to have the steering 
> rack anchored to keep it from sliding in the bushings. It ain't 
> stock, and it ain't pretty but it's correct, safe and solid.
> 
> When I drove at speed, certain bumps in the road would make it feel 
> as though the car was trying to climb out of the lane. I attributed 
> this to the steering rack sliding in the bushings.
> 
> Now that everything is firmly set in the front-end, the sway is very 
> slight, but still there. The steering does not pull to either side. 
> The column bushing is in good shape. The sway almost, (but not 
> absolutely) feels like the rear-end is trying to sashay out of the 
> lane.
> 
> Is this a trailing arm issue? My bolts were pulled and checked. They 
> were not bent but they had obviously been worked on in the past as 
> one of them was non-standard hardware (replaced it). Could the shims 
> being improperly installed cause this sway? If the shims were 
> improperly installed, would an alignment shop be able to tell where 
> and how many to install?



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:22:11 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Collector's Car loan

That's absurd.  I went through a credit union and got a loan with only
3.9% interest.  I needed to send pictures and what I believed the car
to be worth, but no appraisal.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Scooby <chinatown_film_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them
regarding a loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people
have had luck going through credit unions.  This is their reply:
>  
> "This is in response to your e-mail concerning a loan on a 1983
collectable car. First you would need to obtain a written appraisal
for the car. This loan would be considered a signature loan . Loan
terms would be for 48 months with a 11.99% to 18% interest rate.Thank
you, Chartway e-Banking"
>  
> Is this normal practice having a written appraisal / interest rate
high in your experience?



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:45:14 -0600
From: "warren" <kodo_at_dml_tayloredsystems.com>
Subject: MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)

My car just started to have problems shifting into reverse and first gears.  I haven't
looked at it yet, but am very interested in what you find.  I had a quick look at the
clutch pedal and found that there was an ever so slight amount of fluid on the carpet.
I checked the reservoir and it was full.

--  Warren
VIN 2140

> Message: 2
>    Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:53:45 -0800 (PST)
>    From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> Subject: MANUAL SHIFTING PROBLEMS (5spd)
>
> Just wondering if someone can actually answer my post about my trouble
> shifting and a correct adjustment?  Is there only one cable to adjust the
> shifting pattern(two nuts on it)  or is there something else I should be
> looking for?  I can't get it into all the gears smoothly especially reverse
> and fifth.  Again It's either 2nd, 3th, 4th, 5th but no 1st or reverse or
> 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and reverse but no 5th, there seems to be no middle
> ground with consistency emphasis CONSISTENCY.  It's either to far right or
> to far to the left, to me.  Right now the shifter in Neutral is in the
> middle it does not go into REVERSE(only 30% of time) and yes I am lifting
> up and to the left on it and fifth is not smooth.
>
> Contrary to belief, almost all the post I've seen so far have been on how
> to shift--I KNOW HOW TO DO THAT!  After all I've had my Delorean over 4
> years now lets hope i've been doing it right.   But it is good for people
> to know who may be unfamiliar with Deloreans, so I can understand that,
> however, I was just wondering if anybody has had experience with a similar
> problem?????





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:50:30 -0000
From: "westleymills2003" <westleymills2003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: uk no. plate DMC 800V FOR SALE

HI I AM SELLING DMC 800V ANYONE WHO WANTS IT PLEASE EMAIL ME WITH AN 
OFFER OR CALL ME ON 07746 935646 THANKS WES




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:55:18 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DMCH headlight upgrade (WAS: RE: Re: "Dummy" buttons...)

The previous owner of my car had installed the high output Xenon lights.
They look like many other modern lights.
They are bright white.
One night, I pressed the headlight button and my headlights would not come 
on?
I checked my fuses...
To my surprise the headlight fuse had melted into a mush.
These new lights were much more powerfull the older lights.

I would suggest replacing your entire fuse block reguardless of what 
upgrades you make.
It is just a poor design made with thin metal parts and WILL eventually melt 
down.
Might as well nip in the bud before your car burns down to the ground.

I haven't done it yet, but I am working on it.
I suppose I will simply go a to a good car-auto-electrics place any a pro to 
do it.
-VB




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 15:55:42 EST
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Red DeLorean in Bethlehem - Gold plated one?

If it was gold at one time, and then painted, would it have either prototype 
sliding windows or saddleskin interior?   There must be some way of telling if 
it is one of the gold plated cars.   

Patrick Conlon
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:25:30 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference

Volvo 760 this side of the pond did not have a pressure sender, neither 
did the Renault 30, they both relied on the oil pressure SWITCH located 
on opposite side of engine, just behind AC pulleys. DeLorean has both. 
This is a sprung loaded piston.

Martin

supermattthehero wrote:

>I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure 
>sender replacement locally.  On the cross-parts reference, a Volvo 
>part is listed.  So I called a Volvo dealership and asked them to 
>send me the part, well, they said it was replaced with a newer part 
>and could overnight it to me for free, so I purchased it for about 
>$30.  It wasn't even close.  Wrong size threads, and had a spring 
>loaded piston on it.  So, I would like to warn everyone else that the 
>part number in the cross reference list is wrong and won't thread 
>into your block.  
>  
>





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:28:10 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference

It's a Volvo engine but the ancilliaries - water pump, ac compressor - 
everything you'd recognise, are common to the Renault 30, hence the 
confusion. Renault never made a 2.85 engine, only 2.7 and 3.0. Internals 
are 100% Volvo although many things not specific to capacity, are same 
on Renault 30 block.

Martin

D F wrote:

>This brings up a question.
>I here that this engine cross references with Volvo parts, I heart that it 
>is a Renault, and I hear that it is a Peugot.
>What's the real story here?  What other cars was this engine actually in.  I 
>have heard more about it being a Renault than a Volvo...
>So, who knows the truth.. Where was this engine built?
>Dale Funk
>4984
>
>  
>





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 17:03:41 EST
From: vahottub_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach

I think that the speedo cable cannot  be attached to the trans, for the gears 
are put in differently than in normal applications of this tranny, so I have 
heard.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:35:45 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: New De Lorean owner/battery question

Jason - The "Check Battery" light suggests a problem with the 
alternator (typically).  The battery that you bought should be fine 
if the charging system is functioning properly.  What I have found is 
that the alternator can be producing the correct voltage, and yet be 
producing little or no amperage.  This condition causes that light to 
come on.  I would recommend removing the alternator and having it 
bench-tested, as well as generally checked out.  If you have the 
Ducellier version of the alternator, it is essentially non-
rebuildable (according to an alternator rebuild shop), and should be 
replaced with something better.  The various vendors have options for 
you, from NOS replacement alternators to upgraded units of different 
flavors.  I personally installed a Delco 108 amp alternator, which 
required a small amount of modification to the attachments.  Other 
options require no modifications at all.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello, I am a new owner of a 1981, black interior delorean VIN# 
> 2256. This is my first Delorean; its not in the best of shape, but 
> it was all that I could find at the moment. Right now it doen't 
run, 
> but I am hoping to get it running in the next few months. I wanted 
> to drop in and say hi to all the other owners and ask a question. 
> What battery would you recommend for a Delorean? I bought an Optima 
> red top with a CA of 980 and a CCA of 800, but the check battery 
> light is still on. I heard that it would be best to find a battery 
> with 1000 cca or more. Any more advice for first time owners would 
> be welcome as well. Thanks.
> 
> Jason




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 17:15:03 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Collector's Car loan

If it is a signature loan then the car is not collateral.  If that is so
then an appraisal should not be necessary so why pay the expense to appraise
the car (unless you want it for insurance value or other personal issues).

I say your bank is blowing smoke and suggest you ask them why an appraisal
is required for a signature loan.  If I get a signature loan to buy
Christmas presents, I know of no bank that wants an appraisal of my presents
before I make a purchase nor do they want a list of what I plan to buy.  The
loan will be based on your credit score not the car or it's value (since it
in not collateral).

By the way you can probably get a loan from a credit card company lower than
the rate you were quoted by your bank (assuming you have good credit).  I'm
not suggesting you go this way since if you did and paid the minimum payment
you would likely triple (or more) the cost of the car.

Please consult a true financial planner for advice (obviously you bank can
not fill that purpose and I am certainly am not one).

Ed
10541

>
> "This is in response to your e-mail concerning a loan on a 1983
collectable car. First you would need to obtain a written appraisal for the
car. This loan would be considered a signature loan . Loan terms would be
for 48 months with a 11.99% to 18% interest rate.Thank you, Chartway
e-Banking"
>
> Is this normal practice having a written appraisal / interest rate high in
your experience?



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:37:55 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Collector's Car loan

An appraisal is necessary if the car itself is going to be used
as collateral.  Since it's not an auto loan, the interest rate is 
up to the lending institution.  I would look elsewhere.

--
Mike

> Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them regarding a 
> loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people have had luck going 
> through credit unions.  This is their reply:
>  



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 17:42:47 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Collector's Car loan

I did have to get a written estimate when I purchased mine about 6 years
back (but only because it was worth above what Kellys was listing as the
values on the cars at that time . . .other than that, my credit union
treated it just like any other older car, a higher rate than on a brand
new car, but definitely less than 12% - and they would have done a loan
for up to 60 months.

You may try taking them the "insurance letter" from DMCH, and see if you
can convince them it is not technically a "collectable car" - even
though I would normally call it just that.

Michael

-----Original Message-----
From: Scooby [mailto:chinatown_film_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:47 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Collector's Car loan

Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them
regarding a loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people
have had luck going through credit unions.  This is their reply:



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 23:56:14 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Swaying

Rich - Assuming that your steering rack is in serviceable condition 
(lots of messages recently on that subject), there are a number of 
areas in both the front and rear suspensions that could, if worn or 
otherwise damaged, give a swaying sensation.  In the rear, in 
addition to the trailing arm bolts themselves (which must be straight 
and tight), there are the rubber bushings themselves, the attachment 
of the bushings to the frame (two small bolts on each side), bushings 
common to the upper and lower lateral links, and the attachment of 
the body to the frame.  As you mentioned, alignment of the rear 
wheels can also be a factor.  A good alignment shop should be able to 
do a good job of setting the toe-in, assuming all parts mentioned 
have been inspected and are found in good condition.  In the front, 
there are the bushings between the lower control arms and the frame, 
lower control arms and the front sway bar, upper control arm 
bushings, sway bar bushings common to the forward frame section, tie 
rod ends, and the rack itself.  A very thorough inspection of all of 
these components should give some clues as to what is allowing the 
movement that you have been experiencing.  What was done with the 
forward frame section (crumple tube assembly)?  The attachment of the 
sway bar to that section can affect the caster of the front wheels.  
If you have a caster difference of more than 1/2 degree from one side 
to the other, the steering will be very touchy and squirrely. Don't 
forget that tires can have a profound effect on the directional 
stability and handling of a car.  If you have mismatched tires, 
underinflated tires, or tires that are breaking down internally, that 
would be bad.  Cheap tires with strange tread patterns can also 
affect the stability.  Lots to look at and think about.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Up until recently, my DeLorean had really bad steering due to front-
> end corrosion and half-hearted amatuer repairs. In accordance with 
my 
> budget, I've had metal replaced by an experienced metal 
> fabricator/welder. The last thing I had done was to have the 
steering 
> rack anchored to keep it from sliding in the bushings. It ain't 
> stock, and it ain't pretty but it's correct, safe and solid.
> 
> When I drove at speed, certain bumps in the road would make it feel 
> as though the car was trying to climb out of the lane. I attributed 
> this to the steering rack sliding in the bushings.
> 
> Now that everything is firmly set in the front-end, the sway is 
very 
> slight, but still there. The steering does not pull to either side. 
> The column bushing is in good shape. The sway almost, (but not 
> absolutely) feels like the rear-end is trying to sashay out of the 
> lane.
> 
> Is this a trailing arm issue? My bolts were pulled and checked. 
They 
> were not bent but they had obviously been worked on in the past as 
> one of them was non-standard hardware (replaced it). Could the 
shims 
> being improperly installed cause this sway? If the shims were 
> improperly installed, would an alignment shop be able to tell where 
> and how many to install?
> 
> Am I on the wrong track entirely? I want to install new tie-rod 
ends 
> but like I said, my steering isn't pulling to either side, and it's 
> reasonably tight, very little slop. I've yanked on my front wheels 
> and they have no rattle or slop (up/down/side-to-side).
> 
> I hope I'm making sense.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:08:15 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach

Rich - The key question here would be whether there is a drive gear 
assembly behind that plug that could be used for driving a 
speedometer cable.  The transmission casing was used for various 
transmission applications, but there may be a substantial difference 
in the internal arrangements.  I have some transmission casing and 
internal components in stock, so I'll try to determine if there is 
any future for this idea.  You are correct in that many cars have a 
speedometer drive in the tail housing, or elswhere in the 
transmission, depending on the layout.  If the DeLorean transmission 
does have a drive gear behind the plug, and if the ratio is correct 
for our car's speedometer, then it could be possible.  Let's have a 
look.  As a side note, many new cars have an electronic speed sensor 
that uses rotation in the transmission final drive as the measured 
parameter, and then sends an electronic signal up to the 
speedometer.  There is no mechanical link beteen the transmission and 
the speedo.  Something like that has been discussed on this List in 
the past.  I don't recall anything beyond the talking stage, however.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> My experience with automobiles has shown me that the speedometer 
> normally taps into the transmission via a cable with a plastic gear.
> 
> The transmission is always throwing around lubricant inside, 
> lubricating the gear. Speedometer failure is fairly rare in other 
> cars.
> 
> On the casing of the DeLorean manual transmission I noticed 
> a "blanking plug" that looked like a point where your typical 
> speedometer cable would go. For those of you familiar with the 
other 
> applications of the DeLorean transmission, is that what this is 
for? 
> 
> Did other vehicles tap the transmission for the speedometer?
> Isn't running a speeometer cable through the frame feasible?
> What are the automatic transmissions like? Do they have a tie-in 
> point for a speedometer cable?
> 
> I'm no concours competitor but I try to keep my car stock when I 
can. 
> I realize this is a big departure from that. I'm hoping DMCH's new 
> angle drive is more reliable. If not, this is a change I would 
> consider making if possible.
> 
> I look forward to your comments.
> 
> Rich A.




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