From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1848
Date: Saturday, January 24, 2004 3:06 PM

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: 2 SUBJECTS: TRANSMISSION & CAR INSURANCE
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Lo-jack
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: DeLorean- Kruse auction
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

5. won't start
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics_at_dml_aol.com>

6. DeLorean 4 Sale
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Frame Cleaning in winter
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. RE: Re: New Photos! BTTF-3 DeLorean
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

10. Factory Manual Pages Uploaded
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Digest Number 1847 - Kruse Auction
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

12. need help - reliable denver mechanic
From: "colleenkissinger" <middlsis1_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Hub nut size
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

15. Re: won't start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Hub nut size
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. RE: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:23:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 2 SUBJECTS: TRANSMISSION & CAR INSURANCE

It sounds like they did mostly the right things but charged way too
much. You would have done better paying the towing and having a "D"
vender do the work. It would have been done quicker and probably not
cost any more. When working in the area where the clutch slave
cylinder is located they must have knocked something loose and caused
the poor running condition that you now have. It is hard to work in
there and even look to see what is wrong. Check the vacuum hoses and
ignition wires.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Richard T. Herrick, MD"
> <docrth_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> >     BEING IN A NEW AREA I'M HAVING TO ADJUST TO FINDING A NEW
> MECHANIC.





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:30:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Lo-jack

Lo-Jack is around $660 to have installed in a new car. When you do you
get a substantial discount on your insurance. I am not aware of any
discounts available on Classic Car insurance for Lo-Jack. If you did
it it would only be for your own piece of mind. It is a VERY good
investment if you are concerned about your car being stolen, the
recovery rate is high and fast. Then again I don't think the Delorean
is being stolen in any great numbers and it is a little obvious if
spotted.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_d...]
> Subject: [DML] Lo-jack
> 
> 
> I am investigating the installation of the "Lo-Jack" theft recovery
> system for my DeLorean.




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 15:57:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean- Kruse auction

When you enter a car into an auction the "normal" rules of buying and
selling no longer apply. You MUST read the fine print on ALL the
papers you sign. Usually the auctoneer is the final authority and a
verbal acknowledgement of a sale is all it takes. The name of the game
is to "move iron" so they want to get you on and off of the block as
fast as they can, not always getting the highest price, but to move
cars. They have so many to do in a day so any one car only gets so
many seconds. Unless you have a "celebrity car" or something VERY
unusual (I guess your BTTF car didn't qualify) they don't try to
"milk" the bidders for the highest price. An alternative strategy
would have been to stick to your reserve and found the high bidder
after the auction to make your own deal (not exactly koscher as your
agreement with the auctoneer still requires you to pay him his fees
anyway).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Yeah, you like that. Here is a little story about what was my car...
> 
> I sat my Car up for the entire weekend at the Kruse Leake 2003 
> Dallas Auto Auction and it was the hit of the show. 





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 11:27:38 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?

The Carling hydraulic magnetic circuit breakers we use on boats have a
.013sec trip speed at 125% its rating and .008 at 200%.  They also have an
instant trip feature that cuts the power with any short.  This is one
feature I have tested many times and it does trip much faster than a fuse...

 I don't have anything in front of me that list fuse blow times, but I don't
think the ones used in automotive apps are that much faster.

The important thing is to select the best product for the application, if
you have any questions most manafactures are willing to help.

Andrei



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [DML] Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?


> While this sounds good on paper I regret to inform you that a fuse is the
> only fast response in case of a circuit overload.  Circuit breakers take
too long to throw because the bi-metal inside of them has to heat up to break
> the connection.  This can become a dangerous situation.
>
> Jon



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:27:00 -0000
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: won't start

Everything was going great with VIN 5326 and yesterday it would not 
start after not having any problems. It almost seems like its not 
getting any fuel, but I disconnect the fuel supply and its pumping 
when I try to start it. I also made sure the coil was working and I 
have spark at the plugs. I can't even get it to sputter.

John 
5326 & 1383




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:54:14 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean 4 Sale

Hi All:

I just wanted to let everyone know that I am putting my car up for 
sale.  It is a 1981 model with 5-spd manual transmission.  It is in 
fantastic shape.  The fuel system is cleaned up and the car purrs!!!

I am motivated to sell and would be happy to answer any questions you 
have.






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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 19:19:08 -0000
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Frame Cleaning in winter

Hello List!

I thank you for your assistance on my previous questions. #1629 has 
been on the road daily, soldiering on.  In the next few months, I 
will be replacing the brake servo due to a slight vaccuum leak, and 
plan to have an Alpine CD/radio installed.  The Craig will be retired.

My question deals with Frame Cleaning.  My car has had a "baptism by 
fire" ... going from a stored, 900 mile machine, to a daily driver.  
I have about 3025 miles on the clock at this point, and knew that 
winter driving in Cleveland,Ohio would be an intense "road test".  So 
far, I have been please with the cars performance.  The 0-degree 
temperatures we've had for about 10 days have not stopped the car 
from starting.

Yet, the salt has collected on the car ... and I want to get it off! 

I read all of the responses to "Automatic Carwash, Bad Idea?", and 
feel more comfortable taking it to a brushless autowash. But, do the 
under-body spray machines sufficiently clean the frame of the car?

Of course, nothing could be better than putting the car up on a few 
ramps in the driveway and thoroughly cleaning, and re-touching 
the "questionable" spots on the frame. I plan to do this in the 
spring.

The frame was sandblasted and undercoated this past summer, and it is 
a solid, rust free unit at this time.

I would like to keep it this way.  Of course, I do expect some 
surface rust on my daily driving frame.  Yet, are the automatic car 
washes a good frame preserver for the winter, during this deep freeze?

I agree with all of you ... this is a well designed car.  It just 
takes some TLC to keep going.

Thanks in advance for your responses.
Ramon
#1629  




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 19:28:25 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?

Actually you can get circuit breakers that will act as fast or faster 
than fuses. The main reason that they are not used in car 
applications like this is that they cost quite a bit more money than 
a 50-cent fuse. Manufacturers think like this - "we can build a fuse 
block for $6 or use breakers for $150; what's the extra cost on a 
million cars? Will the customer notice?". But now that it's your car, 
it may be feasible. Just make sure you get the right kind, generic 
cheap automotive breakers ARE slower than fuses and could cause 
problems. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> While this sounds good on paper I regret to inform you that a fuse 
is the
> only fast response in case of a circuit overload.  Circuit breakers 
take too
> long to throw because the bi-metal inside of them has to heat up to 
break
> the connection.  This can become a dangerous situation.
> 
> Jon
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_p...]
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 2:21 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?
> 
> 
> I replaced a fuse today in my car and realized then that my fuse
> block holds my fuses very loosely.  I can nearly pull them out with
> a single finger.  After looking around for replacement fuse blocks,
> I thought, why not replace them with circuit breakers of the same
> size?  I was planning on getting some panel-mount, manual-reset





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 13:49:54 -0500
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: New Photos! BTTF-3 DeLorean

>
>http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Set/5142/uni3.jpg
>
>-Louie Golden
>VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


Where was the one in the background used in the movie?

Greg




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:34:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Factory Manual Pages Uploaded

I have uploaded a couple of Volvo factory manual pages to #5939's
photo album documenting aspects of PRV history:

NONLAMBD.JPG -- From a 1979 B28F engine manual. Note that Lambda Sond
is not yet part of the CI system, even on North American imports.

SCREWS.JPG -- From a 1983 B28F engine Manual. The brass balancing
screws are specifically referred to as "shearhead type" and the manual
instructs to tighten until they snap off.

AUXAIRV.JPG -- Annotated. Before CIS, PRV's used an auxilliary air
valve, mounted in the same location as an idle speed motor, for fast
idle. My DeLo's aux air valve is from a BMW 530: functionally the same
but different design, mounted to driver's pontoon for easier access to
the ignition distributor and spark plug #4.

Hope people find these interesting...

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:04:11 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1847 - Kruse Auction

re: Gary Weaver's reply to my email about seeing the time machine DeLorean
at the Kruse auction in Ft Lauderdale:
................WOW!
I thought the seller was the builder.

I would have paid $18,000 any day for that car! It was beautiful, clean, and
sounded as good as mine.

Sorry you had so much trouble, but that's what auctions do -- lots of
pressure on the buyer and the seller. You must be 100% committed to whatever
reason you get involved with the auction. Set your price to buy or sell and
stick with it, regardless of the stickmen vocalizations. They make tons of
money on these sales. It costs lots of money to promote, and run them. Look
at the $$$ the Jackson -Barrett auction made yesterday in Arizona (on the tv
Speed Channel) selling a '56 Ford convertible for $60,000.00 plus
commissions.

Ain't no place for the weak of heart or undecided!

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 22:52:42 -0000
From: "colleenkissinger" <middlsis1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: need help - reliable denver mechanic

  Hello,
   I'm trying to help my step-mom find a reliable mechanic for her 
DL. My dad passed away last May, and my step-mom doesn't drive. She 
wants to sell the DL, but would like to have it checked out, etc, so 
she can sell it with clear conscience. Could someone on this list 
refer us to a good mechanic in Denver/Aurora Colorado? Would anyone 
know of buyers interested in her DL? I appreciate any assistance. 
Thank you.




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 23:02:17 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Hub nut size

Dear List,
  I need to know the socket size for the hub nut. I need to remove it 
so that I can get out my angle drive to try and fix it. 
     Thanks again,
         Kramer
         ~10610




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 01:10:59 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: RE: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?

On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:31:56 -0800, Jon wrote:

> While this sounds good on paper I regret to inform you that a
> fuse is the only fast response in case of a circuit overload.
> Circuit breakers take too long to throw because the bi-metal
> inside of them has to heat up to break the connection.

The breakers as used originally in a DeLorean WOULD be too slow responding.
But there are newer models that use both a bi-metal for overload
and a sort of coil/transformer/solenoid setup to react to shorts.

Real downside to this is they're even more bulkier
than the breakers the DeLorean allready features...

I have "light fuses" in all slots to accomodate easy recognition
of a blown fuse in this dark area (my flashlight gets used so
little the batteries drain themselves) These fuse have a small
bulb built in that lights when the fuse blows.

Pic here:
http://image01.conrad.com/m/8000_8999/8000/8050/8055/805572_BB_00_FB.EPS.jpg


I also have a special resettable circuitbreaker-like fuse on my #10 circuit,
as when my brother adjusts the mirrors this one tends to blow when the
mirror hits full travel. (which is still les than he'd like being
shorter than me ;-)

Pic here:
http://image01.conrad.com/m/8000_8999/8400/8400/8402/840270_BB_00_FB.EPS.jpg

Cheers,

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 02:18:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: won't start

First make sure the fuel pump is running. You should be able to hear
it run at least a little when you first try starting the motor. If you
hear the pump run at all then you need to make sure you are getting
spark. If the pump doesn't run it could be the # 7 fuse, the wiring,
the inertia switch, or the RPM relay. It could also be a bad pump. If
you aren't getting spark a couple of common causes are bad connections
on the ballast resistors or a bad pick-up coil in the distributer.
Make sure you are not out of gas. A bad pick-up hose will cause the
pump to suck air especailly if the tank is low. You should see a nice
fat BLUE spark, not a thin, weak, orange one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painintheass7565" <advantics_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Everything was going great with VIN 5326 and yesterday it would not 
> start after not having any problems. It almost seems like its not 
> getting any fuel, but I disconnect the fuel supply and its pumping 
> when I try to start it. I also made sure the coil was working and I 
> have spark at the plugs. I can't even get it to sputter.
> 
> John 
> 5326 & 1383




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 02:27:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Hub nut size

Angle drive is removed from the rear. Takes a 1.25" or 32mm open end
wrench. Will be torque'd pretty tight (I used a hydraulic floor jack
to lift the wrench). Turn the wheel to the left for better access.
Remember that this nut holds the spindle to the knuckle -- do not try
to move the car without it. The angle drive can be separated from the
nut if you want to use the car during repairs (I sealed the open hole
to keep trash out of my spindle. Made an 800 mile trip like that no
problem). Angle drive is held to the nut with a internal lock ring.

See Message #38247 for my repair experience.

Good luck.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   I need to know the socket size for the hub nut. I need to remove it 
> so that I can get out my angle drive to try and fix it. 
>      Thanks again,
>          Kramer
>          ~10610




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 02:29:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?

If you are planning to replace the fuses with circuit breakers you
must calculate the correct size breaker to replace the fuse which
involves considering the current carrying capacity of the wiring, the
size and type of load, and whether it is an intermittant load or a
continuos load. You will need the engineering data from the
manufacturer of the circuit breakers to do this. In some cases the
size of the fuse was dictated by the wire size and in some cases it
was sized to protect the load. You also have to figure worst-case on
some loads. Don't forget to calculate in the ambient temperature
because circuit breakers are much more sensitive to ambient than
fuses. For instance on most American cars headlights and wipers ALWAYS
are protected by circuit breakers. The logic here is that even with a
short circuit the power would recycle so you would still have some
functionality of the lights or wipers. You must also consider multiple
failure modes and backfeeds. This can get complicated even for an
Electrical Engineer. My point is that this is not as simple a project
as it might appear. A properly maintained and functioning fuseblock
with fuses is not so bad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:31:56 -0800, Jon wrote:
> 
> > While this sounds good on paper I regret to inform you that a
> > fuse is the only fast response in case of a circuit overload.
> > Circuit breakers take too long to throw because the bi-metal
> > inside of them has to heat up to break the connection.
> 
> The breakers as used originally in a DeLorean WOULD be too slow
responding.
> But there are newer models that use both a bi-metal for overload
> and a sort of coil/transformer/solenoid setup to react to shorts.
> 
> Real downside to this is they're even more bulkier
> than the breakers the DeLorean allready features...
> 
> --------------------------------




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 19:00:06 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Replace fuse block with circuit breakers?

IMHO the protection with the least moving parts seems the most reliable.  If
a fuse malfunctions it just doesn't work.  If a circuit breaker malfunctions
i'm pretty sure the smoke would let you know something is wrong :)

Jon
#3215







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