From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1857
Date: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 1:08 AM

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: lost power
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: lost power (various grounds)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Replacing Radiator
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_attbi.com>

4. RE: lost power
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Re: lost power
From: Marcel Bourgon <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>

6. Re: lost power
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Re: lost power
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. RE: Pigeon Forge 04
From: "now100handed" <now100handed_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: lost power
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Replacing Radiator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Replacing Radiator
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Fascia color?
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Delorean in need of help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Delorean Best in Class, Chicago World of Wheels 2004
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:18:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: lost power

I thought that it would be fuel, but the car had a full tank I filled it up before I went out, and the car has the original baffel, but a  new pick up hose and pump. The car's only other problem is when its cold it takes a while for the throttle to unfreeze. 
 
Thanks
Darryl
5898


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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 05:05:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: lost power (various grounds)

Don't forget to check the ground wire from your block (passenger side,
by the motor mount). Very vulnerable to rust and corrosion -- why do
so many manufacturers (not just DMC) ground the block right next to
the road? Without it you lose ignition.

If your engine died suddenly, I'd suspect an electrical problem. On
carbureted vehicles at least, fuel supply problems usually creep in
over many revolutions. An electrical problem can stop the engine
immediately.

Also ensure your fuel pump has a good ground. I've seen 3 different
DeLoreans (mine included) with bypassed inertia switches. I think it
is a very common mod. This puts your pump at the mercy of whatever
alternative ground the previous owner rigged up. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok I was driving home after a successful day of driving my D, anyway 
> I stoped with a friend to go get coffee, and as we pulled back out 
> onto the highway the car just shut off, all the electricaly stuff, 
> radio, lights, etc... stayed on but I couldn't get the car to start. 
> I went back to see if anythinf was leaking, fell off, what have you 
> but everything seemed fine no smell, nothing. So I tired maybe six 
> times, on the seventh the car beagan to shake and the last and 8th 
> time it started fine, it would shake a few times when we slowed down 
> but never died at all. What could have caused this?
> 
> 
> Thanks 
> Darryl
> 5898




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 06:45:05 -0000
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: Replacing Radiator

Anyone have instructions for removing and replacing the 
radiator? I see a diagram in the parts manual but can't find 
procedure in the Technical Owners Guide.
Thanks, Kenn




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 00:50:34 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: lost power

Darryl, Part of the problem could be fuel pressure. When was the last time
the fuel filter was changed. How old or new is the fuel pump. If all this
checks out ok, then the control plunger in the fuel distributor may be
setting to low because the idle control screw loosened. You may have to re
adjust the 02 setting.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 1:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] lost power


In a message dated 2/1/04 11:36:25 AM Central Standard Time,
mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
Ok I was driving home after a successful day of driving my D, anyway
I stoped with a friend to go get coffee, and as we pulled back out
onto the highway the car just shut off, all the electricaly stuff,
radio, lights, etc... stayed on but I couldn't get the car to start.
I went back to see if anythinf was leaking, fell off, what have you
but everything seemed fine no smell, nothing. So I tired maybe six
times, on the seventh the car beagan to shake and the last and 8th
time it started fine, it would shake a few times when we slowed down
but never died at all. What could have caused this?


Thanks
Darryl
5898
>>>>>>>>>>>
At one point in my ownership, my car would sometimes just shut off all by
itself.  turned out to be a combination between a couple loose fuses and
relays
and the wiring to the ignition resistors was poor.

your case actually sounds more like a fuel problem, and we have heard this
story so many times before.  try filling your gas tank up and i bet the
problem
will go away.  what happens is over time the pickup hose in the tank gets
cracked or starts to collapse and once the gas goes down below the crack,
you
start sucking air, which will make the car 1: not start, if at all, and 2:
if it
does start, will run 'shakey'.

you need to open the fuel pump access cover and replace everything in the
tank if you have not done so.  i bet your pickup hose is either deteriorated
or
really soft and collapsing.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 05:15:07 -0700
From: Marcel Bourgon <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: lost power

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>How much fuel did you have in the fuel tank at the time? If it was
>below 1/2 tank maybe you have a problem inside. I would remove the
>fuel pump and inspect the fuel pick-up hose. It should not be soft
>(easy to collapse under vacuum) and it shouldn't have any kinks or
>holes. The baffles should be attached correctly and not moving around
>inside. The symptoms you describe could have been caused by fuel
>starvation. When you accelerated onto the highway all the fuel moved
>away from the pick-up. After sitting still it started. If you actually
>ran out of fuel (or just ran very low) your fuel gauge may not be
>reading right. You may have to replace the fuel tank sending unit
>which is on the top of the tank near the pump. The origional is
>failure-prone and inaccurate.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757 
>
>[duplicate quote removed by moderator]
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
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>
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>Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
>
>  
>
I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM LAST MONTH.  I TRIED ALL THE FIXES AND THEN 
DECIDED TO REMOVE PUMP AND GIVE IT A TRY.  COME TO FIND OUT THE PUMP HAD 
INGESTED A SMALL PIECE OF HOSE CLAMP AND HAD JAMMED THE PUMP.
SPOKE WITH JOHN HERVEY WITH SPECIAL T AUTO AND SET NEW BAFFLE PUMP AND 
NEW FILTER ON BOTTOM OF PUMP.  NO MORE PROBLEMS.  JOHN IS A GREAT  GUY 
TO KNOW AND HE IS THE MOST HELP FULL INDIVIDUAL.   I ALSO INSTALLED HIS 
NEW BAFFLE KIT GREAT PRODUCT
MARCEL IN ELPASO




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 06:12:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: lost power

Stock DeLorean has two shielded blue wires: 1) O2 sensor, from exhaust
Y pipe, entering the body under the driver's splash guard 2)
distributor pickup, laying across cylinder 4-6 valve cover, entering
the body near the driver's pontoon extension.

Sounds like you had a bad connection on the distributor pickup.
Guarantee the engine won't run without it.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Had something similar going on with my D for a while.  When I would hit
> a bump (over railroad tracks, etc.) the car would start seriously
> cutting out.  After much tracking down I found some corroded wires in
> the plug for the . . . O2 sensor, I believe . . .back left portion of
> the engine compartment (right behind the rear window on the drivers
> side). New plug, spliced sires, and never had the problem again.
> 
> Michael
> 
> [duplicate quote removed by moderator]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 09:41:09 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: lost power

Another possibility is frozen water in the gas line? With all of the record
cold temperatures a can of drygas every fillup will help eliminate this
problem.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Darryl Givens" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: lost power


> I thought that it would be fuel, but the car had a full tank I filled it
up before I went out, and the car has the original baffel, but a  new pick
up hose and pump. The car's only other problem is when its cold it takes a
while for the throttle to unfreeze.




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 15:09:22 -0000
From: "now100handed" <now100handed_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Pigeon Forge 04

Thanks. That clears everything up a litte bit more. See ya there.




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 14:59:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: lost power

Still sounds like a possible fuel problem but it could be an
electrical problem shutting down the fuel pump. My next guess would be
the RPM relay. The origional does fail. Get some paper clips and the
next time this happens jump it out. In all cases the fuel pump MUST
run or the motor will not. Make sure you REALLY DO have a full tank of
gas. A more remote possabilty is the pick-up coil in the distributer
going bad. These seem to fail when they get hot and on cooling they
work again for a while. For the throttle cable just relubricate with
anti-freeze.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I thought that it would be fuel, but the car had a full tank I
filled it up before I went out, and the car has the original baffel,
but a  new pick up hose and pump. The car's only other problem is when
its cold it takes a while for the throttle to unfreeze. 
>  
> Thanks
> Darryl
> 5898
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 15:14:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Radiator

Raise the car. Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the 3 hoses (don't
forget the little one on the upper right side).  Remove all the little
nuts on the fan shroud and the 2 radiator support brackets. Get 2
wires to hold the fan shroud (with the electric fans) up and behind
while you slide the radiator down and out. Not too hard but you do
have to juggle the radiator AND the fan shroud with the fans in it and
they are both heavy and when you are underneath the car they are over
your head so it is a little difficult especially the first time you
try to do this. When you are removing all the little nuts and washers
make sure you get them all, some are not easy to see and if you miss
any and try to force the fan shroud out you will damage something.
Clean all the debris out, you will be suprised at how much junk
collects between the radiator and the condensor coil. The origional
radiator with the plastic tanks and aluminum core is unrepairable.
Don't waste any time or money on it. If the car has over 50,000 miles
on it the fan motors should be rebuilt too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Anyone have instructions for removing and replacing the 
> radiator? I see a diagram in the parts manual but can't find 
> procedure in the Technical Owners Guide.
> Thanks, Kenn




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 14:59:36 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Radiator

I'm going to be doing one in the next week or two so I'll take 
photos/write it up. It's a bit complicated since they apparently 
built the car around the radiator. Biggest problem is that you 
generaly break off a lot of tiny 4-5 mm bolts/studs (unless your car 
has always been in the desert and nothing is rusty). Short version:
--spray PB-Blaster on everything that you need to take apart, then 
wait about a day. 
--Drain coolant at lower hose
--remove front stabilizer bar
--remove shroud, probably breaking a few of the studs off the grille 
and spinning the rivnuts up in the body that hold the shroud in place
--take off mounting brackets. 
At this point the radiator and A/C condenser are loose but attached 
to each other. I generally rotate the assembly down and towards the 
driver side so that I don't disconnect the freon hoses. 
--disassemble the radiator from the condenser, breaking a couple more 
of those little studs that are attached to the condenser. 

At this point you decide if you need to fix all the studs or not, if 
you do you'll need to further dis-assemble the spoiler (breaking 
those studs too) and the grille. If you broke any off the condenser 
they HAVE to be fixed - there are only 4. I generally drill out the 
rivets on the brackets, get new studs welded on, and then rivet the 
brackets back on the condenser. 

Assembly is the reverse of the above. 

Pictures will make this a lot clearer if you can wait. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Anyone have instructions for removing and replacing the 
> radiator? I see a diagram in the parts manual but can't find 
> procedure in the Technical Owners Guide.
> Thanks, Kenn




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 19:03:54 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fascia color?

What color matches the original grey for the front and rear fascia? I 
have the rear off so I might as well re-paint it. 




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 16:16:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean in need of help

I contacted the service shop that this "D" is at. I was told to call
back today, Monday. I just called and was rudely told the car is NOT
for sale, the owner changed his mind and before I could say anything
he hung up on me! I guess this one is going to get a lot worse before
someone can "rescue" it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> How aggravating, this is my second time sending this since I lost my
first 
> copy. Anyway, ever since my brother-in-law saw my Delorean he's been
telling 
> me that he noticed one at a mechanics shop immediately next to a
supermarket 
> he owns in NYC. I was able to see this thing in person the past
saturday and 
> it looks to be a good candidate for restoration. I spoke to the
mechanic 
> that owns the shop and he said that the D belongs to a client who
'really' 
> wants to restore it. 'Why hasn't he?', I ask. The mechanic looks at
me like 
> I'm a dumbass and says "These are impossible to find parts for!!"
> 





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 00:48:42 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Delorean Best in Class, Chicago World of Wheels 2004

List,

Just thought I would let everyone know that my Canadian spec
Grand National powered Delorean took home the Best in Class
award at the 42nd annual World of Wheels custom car show in
Chicago, IL this weekend.  Although it was the only Delorean,
there were plenty of other cars in the consolidated sportscar
class and the Delorean was victorious.

As a side note, I also had the Avenger GT40 Rock Crawler at
the show as well, and that vehicle took home a second place
award in the custom 4x4 class.  As most of you know the GT40
Rock Crawler was built this past summer by a team of Delorean 
enthusiasts (and a few others) for Monster Garage in 4 days.
And yes, I did get to keep the vehicle after we did the show.

Both the Delorean and the GT45 RC were displayed in a Backyard
theme, since the GT40 RC was built for a Backyard Monster show.
I had a DVD copy of the show running throughout the weekend,
which helped to tie in both vehicles to the display.

Thanks to everyone who stopped by at the show, especially some
of the build team, who stayed a little longer to answer visitor
questions about the MG show (and gave me a little break).  Most
of the people at this car show liked Deloreans and the MG show.

I should have a few photos of the display up on my website
sometime soon, so check them out, www.DeloreanMotorCars.com

I hope to have one or both of these vehicles on display at
the Delorean Car Show in Pigeon Forge, TN this June.

Later,
Rich W. 




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