From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1862
Date: Saturday, February 07, 2004 9:43 AM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

2. RE: Re: won't start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: Re: won't start
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. RE: Changing Coil
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Changing Coil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: won't start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

8. Re: Jacking a DMC
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

9. RE: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Bittersweet Memories
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

11. Re: Changing Coil
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

12. Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in??? UPDATE, & Happy Ending
From: "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Nice website!
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

14. Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

16. Re: Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Changing Coil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. DeLorean steering- repaired, results.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews

22. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 11:09:34 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pickup Hose

If the cause of your problem turns out to be the pickup hose you may want to
give our product some thought. I believe that our hose is the only one
available that is made from Viton rubber which is far more resistant to
collapsing, tearing, and fuel contamination than more conventional (and much
less expensive) rubbers. Competitive pressures have caused us to lower our
price to within five dollars of our competitors but I can assure you it's
the finest hose available and comes with a FIVE YEAR WARRANTY. Check our
website pjgrady.com for more info. This is the first time I've ever posted a
link to our site but see other links frequently used so I guess it's SOP.
I'm not looking to "stir a war" just giving you some information that I have
never advertised. 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Rowe [mailto:rowejj_at_dml_tds.net] 
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 6:22 PM
To: DmcNews
Subject: [DML] Fuel Pickup Hose

 

         List,

                The last time I drove my car before putting it up for winter
it started making

a sound from up front somewhere. I'm pretty sure it was my fuel pickup hose
but haven't

pulled it to see yet since I really don't like being out in the freezing
cold. Anyway, I'm 

going to check it out before I get the car out again for spring and was
wondering what 

else I might check while I'm messing around in there. I've had the car for
about 3 1/2 years

and have never messed with anything to do with the fuel system. Not to stir
a war between

vendors but who's got the best deal on an aftermarket pickup hose? Any
precautions

I should take before doing anything? Any advice or tips? Email me off list
if you like at

rowejj(at)tds.net   

                                       Thanks in advance...............Jason
#5903

 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

 

 

 

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

 

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

 

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Yahoo! Groups Links

 

     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

 

     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

 

     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

 

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:36:27 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: won't start

John, Had the car been sitting for a while even though you drove it.
Particles of fuel varnish in the fuel could have come loose and stopped up
or locked the control plunger in the fuel distributor which feeds the
injectors. Also the warm up regulator could be stuck or defective and
applying higher pressure in the cold stage, was the fuel filter changed. If
it gets a tear then contaminants from the tank could pass into the fuel
distributor. Last, vacuum leaks. If there are any the air flow plate won't
go down far enough to raise the control plunger.
As you can see there are several things to check.
Call if you need help. My hours are from 9 am till 9 pm. Leave a message if
not here and I will call you back.
John Hervey
Delorean parts
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:advantics_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 6:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: won't start


The car ran when I got it, then one day it just didn't start. I was getting
plenty of spark but no fuel when I pulled an injector. When I pulled the
fuel
line going to the fuel distributor, I had fuel going to it but the fuel
getting
in the engine was next to nothing. It would sputter and try to start but it
would just tease me. I had thought the fuel distributor and injectors were
clogged, and so I bought new injectors and took the fuel distributor and
cold
start valve off my other D. Still the same problem, only difference is it
will try
to start and sometimes run for 10 or 20 seconds but dies out as soon as I
take my foot off the gas. The few seconds that it does run it smokes a lot.
  I know I got the lines all back correctly and it helps that I have another
D to look at, and even swap parts with to see if something bad. It runs
great,
and I have since tried some of the "bad" parts on it, only to find that they
work fine. I don't know these cars at all, but am trying to learn. I feel
like
I'm learning a lot and nothing all at the same time. I have a plastics
manufacturing business where I've built all my equipment  from scratch, so I
know
how to turn a wrench. But this has been a humbling experience, to say the
least.
I guess I'm back to square one, with the same problem except a new fuel
system. I can't help but think it's just something simple, and I am at your
mercy.

John 5326 & 1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 11:41:51 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: won't start

Whenever you change or swap a fuel distributor a CO adjustment MUST be
performed or the car will run poorly if at all. Try turning the 3mm CO adj.
screw clockwise (richer)exactly one turn at a time until the car will start
and hold an idle(COUNT the turns as you proceed). If this doesn't improve
the situation after five complete turns then turn the screw counterclockwise
six turns to start the process in the reverse direction (leaner). To
understand how sensitive this adjustment is realize that the car usually
won't even run if you are out by more than ONE turn. Once running have a
COMPITENT MECHANIC with the PROPER TOOLS perform the CO adjustment procedure
as per the service manual. NEVER adjust the CO final setting because the
setting must be within 1/16th of a turn for the car to run properly! 

-----Original Message-----
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:advantics_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 7:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: won't start

The car ran when I got it, then one day it just didn't start. I was getting 
plenty of spark but no fuel when I pulled an injector. When I pulled the
fuel 
line going to the fuel distributor, I had fuel going to it but the fuel
getting 
in the engine was next to nothing. It would sputter and try to start but it 
would just tease me. I had thought the fuel distributor and injectors were 
clogged, and so I bought new injectors and took the fuel distributor and
cold 
start valve off my other D. Still the same problem, only difference is it
will try 
to start and sometimes run for 10 or 20 seconds but dies out as soon as I 
take my foot off the gas. The few seconds that it does run it smokes a lot.
  I know I got the lines all back correctly and it helps that I have another

D to look at, and even swap parts with to see if something bad. It runs
great, 
and I have since tried some of the "bad" parts on it, only to find that they

work fine. I don't know these cars at all, but am trying to learn. I feel
like 
I'm learning a lot and nothing all at the same time. I have a plastics 
manufacturing business where I've built all my equipment  from scratch, so I
know 
how to turn a wrench. But this has been a humbling experience, to say the
least. 
I guess I'm back to square one, with the same problem except a new fuel 
system. I can't help but think it's just something simple, and I am at your
mercy.

John 5326 & 1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:42:20 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Changing Coil

Marcus, You won't burn up anything but the road. The Delorean as you know
has a 1 ohm ballast resistor that feeds the coil. Couple that with the
resistance in the coil and you will be ok. You can use anything from a .7
ohm to a 1.5 ohm coil. Note the ones on the web site to help you choose the
good one for you.
John Hervey
Delorean parts
   http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/performance-package.jpg




-----Original Message-----
From: giesel [mailto:marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se]
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 5:37 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Changing Coil



Hi, I am planning to change the old stock Bosch coil to a new
"hotter" one. But  I am a little bit worried about  burning things
up... Anyone who knows what happens if I put a to powerful coil
on my D?

How many volt can it stand?

I found a couple of nice coils the MSD have, does anyone have
any suggestions?


/Marcus





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 17:15:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Changing Coil

Unless your old coil is bad you won't notice much improvement. The
dangers in going with a higher voltage coil are the following:
The old ignition wires may break down if they aren't already shot
The "hotter" coil may draw excessive currect from the ECU and burn it out.
The cap and rotor are only rated for a certain voltage level. If you
exceed it then under certain conditions you will get arc-over.
In general you can't usually get very much by upgrading one component
in a well engineered system, this is an example. On a positive note
several (maybe many) have switched ignition coils and find no bad
effects. At the very least you should consider replacing the secondary
ignition wires, cap, rotor, and spark plugs to get the full benefits
of the "hotter" coil (if any). In most cases just replacing all these
20 year old parts will do more than a hotter coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "giesel" <marcus_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> Hi, I am planning to change the old stock Bosch coil to a new 
> "hotter" one. But  I am a little bit worried about  burning things 
> up... Anyone who knows what happens if I put a to powerful coil 
> on my D?
> 
> How many volt can it stand?
> 
> I found a couple of nice coils the MSD have, does anyone have 
> any suggestions?
> 
> 
> /Marcus




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 17:24:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: won't start

Just being able to replace parts is not going to get you runing. You
really have to be able to diagnose a problem and change just the bad
part. Now that you are where you are I would try turning the mixture
screw. It is probably way off. We saw this on a car in Virginia. He
repalced the mixture unit and it took a turn or 2 to get the
adjustment close. It seems the mixture units do not come preadjusted
for Deloreans. You have to remove the tamper-proof plug (if it is
there) and use a metric allen wrench. Don't forget to plug the hole or
you will have a large vacuum leak. The procedure is in the Workshop
Manual D:04:01.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, advantics_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The car ran when I got it, then one day it just didn't start. I was
getting 
> plenty of spark but no fuel when I pulled an injector. When I pulled
the fuel 
> line going to the fuel distributor, I had fuel going to it but the
fuel getting 
> in the engine was next to nothing. It would sputter and try to start
but it 
> would just tease me. I had thought the fuel distributor and
injectors were 
> clogged, and so I bought new injectors and took the fuel distributor
and cold 
> start valve off my other D. Still the same problem, only difference
is it will try 
> to start and sometimes run for 10 or 20 seconds but dies out as soon
as I 
> take my foot off the gas. The few seconds that it does run it smokes
a lot.
>   I know I got the lines all back correctly and it helps that I have
another 
> D to look at, and even swap parts with to see if something bad. It
runs great, 
> and I have since tried some of the "bad" parts on it, only to find
that they 
> work fine. I don't know these cars at all, but am trying to learn. I 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 12:40:03 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose

On Feb 6, 2004, at 11:09 AM, PJ Grady wrote:

> This is the first time I've ever posted a
> link to our site but see other links frequently used so I guess it's 
> SOP.
> I'm not looking to "stir a war" just giving you some information that 
> I have
> never advertised.

Rob,
If an occasional gentle, useful plug is the price of having you be an 
active contributor to the list, I don't think you are going to find 
very many DLMers who are likely to complain about the deal!

Cheers,

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 13:03:21 -0500
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Jacking a DMC

( Check Rob Grady's response a few messages back. It's not that easy if even possible to get the doors open this way: Moderator )


Good thought! Now I'm glad I disconnected my power door locks.

Eric Itzel
vin4433
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 11:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Jacking a DMC


> Well I'm glad I know how to jack a DMC now...
>
> "I heard a clever way of unlocking the doors a few weeks/months ago... The
> message (which evades me now) says that hitting the fibreglass just in
> front of the inertia switch (to the rear of the driver's wheel) can make
> the inertia switch trip.  The switch cuts the ground to the fuel pump,
> but also disengages the door locks as a sort of "safety feature"."
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:51:28 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose

Andrew and Group
I have talked to Bosch several times about the fuel pump noise and have
never got an answer that you could positively say this is it. They don't
know either. Heat in the tank, Air in the fuel, pressure in the tank. It's
just not there. But if your worried about the fuel feed problem on the
bottom of the pump, the new updated feed and baffle system SpecialTauto has
will eliminate any problems fuel feed problems. It's simple, sweet and
works. Keep plenty of fuel in the tank will help keep it cooler.  check out
with the link.
John Hervey
Delorean parts
http://www.specialtauto.com/index.html




-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Prentis [mailto:aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com]
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 12:50 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Fuel Pickup Hose


Harold,
A few months ago I found that my fuel pump was making
a very load whirring/groaning noise like it was
starved of fuel.I replaced my pick up hose which was
very soft and maleable.Since then I have had no
recurrence of that sound.So a pick up hose which is
kinked,collapsed or has a hole in it can certainly
cause the pump to make a noise,And a bloody loud one
at that.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.
--- Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> I have never heard of a fuel pick-up hose causing a
> noise. What sort
> of sound do you hear?
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 19:47:04 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Bittersweet Memories


Yesterday 2/5/04 was a bittersweet day for me.

After 22 years of continueous Delorean Ownership,Yesterday was my 
last day,as I watched my last three Deloreans loaded up on a 
Flatbed,and headed out to Long Island N.Y.
It was a moment of freedom and a moment of sadness,sad because,a part 
of me is now history,and freedom because I am no longer tied to my 
Deloreans.
The cars are gone but,hopefully in the good hands of Rob,they 
will,Resurface as a proud example of what the Deloreans should be,and 
make someone else "Live the Dream".


With Bittersweet Memories

Claude
00570
Now Rob's Delorean

P.S. This will be the last time I sign off with 00570
as it is no longer is my car.(it now belongs to P.J. Grady)
Claude




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 11:24:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Coil

This is the only time I can ever remember disagreeing with David T! I actually put a new coil and spark plugs on my old DeLorean a couple of years back, and it was like I had dropped in a new engine in the car. People often forget that the ignition system wears out, corrodes, and needs replacing just like any other aspect of the car. After 23 years, it's a good bet your car's ignition system isn't what it once was, and could benefit greatly from a replacement. Besides oil filters and air filters, your spark plugs and coil are the most disposable parts on the car. I can GUARANTEE you'll feel a difference if you replace them. I do have to agree with David in one aspect- if you're going to replace the coil, do the spark plugs and wires too. It's one of the cheapest and easiest maintanence things you can do to your car, and also one of the most important IMO.  You'll get a more complete burn of the fuel in the cylinder which means better performance and gas mileage. Especially if you're going to go to a hotter coil, you really need to invest in new wires. Adding more power to corroded cracked old wires will only exacerbate wear, and you may notice a DIP in performance. It's only $50 extra... go for the wires if you're going to upgrade the ignition.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC

--- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
Unless your old coil is bad you won't notice much improvement. The
dangers in going with a higher voltage coil are the following:
The old ignition wires may break down if they aren't already shot
The "hotter" coil may draw excessive currect from the ECU and burn it out.
The cap and rotor are only rated for a certain voltage level. If you
exceed it then under certain conditions you will get arc-over.
In general you can't usually get very much by upgrading one component
in a well engineered system, this is an example. On a positive note
several (maybe many) have switched ignition coils and find no bad
effects. At the very least you should consider replacing the secondary
ignition wires, cap, rotor, and spark plugs to get the full benefits
of the "hotter" coil (if any). In most cases just replacing all these
20 year old parts will do more than a hotter coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team wins! Free limited-time trial at http://www.AllSportsMarket.com/Index.asp?Refer=delomail



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 21:22:31 -0000
From: "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in??? UPDATE, & Happy Ending

Success, I managed to get it unlocked!!!!

First, thanks to all who gave me advice on different methods of 
entry. I was amazed to see how many were willing to help with this 
situation. 

First off after I posted my first message I decided to take a drive 
out to where the car was before it was loaded, (where they locked 
the keys in), when I got there it was right about to be loaded and 
someone had accidentally hit the lock button thinking it was the 
door handle, and well we all know what happened when they closed it. 
Anyways, someone must've been on my side today, because it was not 
slammed shut just caught on the safety latches. After assessing the 
situation and seeing the keys dangling from the ignition, a 
stainless bar was formed and bent so that If I lifted slightly on 
the door, I could insert it past the weatherstripping, and after 
turning it around, it would come down on the lock mechanism. Bingo, 
it is now unlocked and on its way.

It took me all of 5 minutes to get in once I got out there, just 
major unnecessary stress on my part. I made them hold the keys this 
time. I got extremely lucky that it wasn't slammed shut all the way. 
Finally a little luck on my side for once.

They also apoligised about threating to return it to me locked. 
Always funny how many people are so confused by our cars isn't it? 
Makes me think those goofy labels they sell for our doors might be 
worth it?

So thanks for all the suggestions and look forward to seeing all of 
you in Pigeon Forge this year.

Thanks again,

Joe O'Brien




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 21:54:01 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Nice website!

Hey Toby....

I just stopped by your recently aquired website, 
www.DeLorean-Parts.com, and noticed that it has been re-vamped.

Very Cool!!

I am excited about you jumping into the parts business, and it looks 
like you are off to a good start.

Keep up the great work!
Dave Jacobs




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 22:19:05 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???

Actually I have heard the same thing about hitting them in the back 
of the driverside wheel from a man that worked for DMC when they 
arrived in the US. 

He did something involving the doors when they came off of the ship. 
Anyway, He told me that it did work on the early ones, maybe the 
first 500 or so. 

He also said the early vins had a problem with their back glass 
busting if the doors were closed too hard or something, I should have 
paid more attention. I took all of his advice when purchasing mine, 
since he had so much involvement in the company, and got a later 81 
model.




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Just a heads up to the list about this thread. I e-mailed Joe 
privately to
> help him get in his car and he let me know that he had already got 
in it as
> of Thursday afternoon. In case he doesn't post that info I just 
want to say
> "next topic please!".
> BTW that tip about hitting the body to activate the inertia switch 
only
> works if you can simulate the force of a five mile an hour impact 
or more.
> This is not likely with anything less than Paul Bunyan's hammer :). 
Been
> there tried that.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Rob Grady 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TalksToGod [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net] 
> Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 10:43 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get 
in???
> 
> When I locked my keys in my car-I put my palms on the passenger
> sliding glass, and kind of pushed downwards and inwards. It popped
> down and in enough to slip a wire bent to a hook at the end to fish 
in
> and retrieve the keys-mine were in the ignition so I had the trouble
> of pulling them out and etc. With my doors closed sometimes opening 
my
> passenger side triggers the lock and jams the doors on my car, well
> this happened while I was trying to enter to grab the keys from the
> ignition-unfortunitly I forgot about my little locking problem-
ANYWAY-
> This
> method did not damage the window and I'm not sure what happened that
> it is able to pop down and in like that-perhaps it was going off
> track. Even after all the window still works like a charm:). Its 
worth
> a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 17:24:54 -0500
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???

( the cars been opened and we've heard a zillion ways to try to get in. I say it's time to put this subject to bed so I won't post any more on this subject: moderator)


Wouldn't a tool both window cost less then a T panel??

Regards,

Michael



Quoting Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>:

> Of course, if you can't get the door open, you would
> need to damage the T section to remove it.
> 
> 
> --- I wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > 
> > Remove the T roof, then the cover plate for the wire
> > harness in to the doors.  Pull the connectors apart,
> > and energize the "unlock" coil with a 12V DC
> > source...
> ><SNIP>
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 23:37:54 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Locked out of car!! Keys inside. Anyway to get in???

Makes sense - the inertia switch is mounted directly to the bulkhead 
where your feet go - the reason it was moved on later cars. It was more 
than the first 500, although there was a recall for defective switches also.

Martin

wayofcain wrote:

>He did something involving the doors when they came off of the ship. 
>Anyway, He told me that it did work on the early ones, maybe the 
>first 500 or so. 
>  
>
>  
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 00:11:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Changing Coil

If you notice a big improvement when you replaced your coil and spark
plugs then I submit that it isn't that you put a "hotter" coil in,
just a new fresh one and new, freshly gapped spark plugs. You would
have noticed the same improvement if you got a new Bosch coil. Coils
do age, spark plugs do wear (the gap increases) ignition wires break
down. After 20 years of course you will notice an improvement if you
put some new parts in! Even if you don't use the car and wear the
parts out these parts age. Anyway I can't expect everyone to agree
with me ALL the time! My advice still stands, the best "bang for the
buck" is a through tune-up. Anything more than that and you will spend
a lot more and gain a lot less. Of course it helps that not only do
you put in new, fresh parts, but that you do it correctly and fix all
the little things that you will also find. Along with all the old,
worn out ignition parts are all the little vacuum hoses that harden
from the heat and age that crack and leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> This is the only time I can ever remember disagreeing with David T!
I actually put a new coil and spark plugs on my old DeLorean a couple
of years back, and it was like I had dropped in a new engine in the
car. People often forget that the ignition system wears out, corrodes,
and needs replacing just like any other aspect of the car. After 23
years, it's a good bet your car's ignition system isn't what it once
was, and could benefit greatly from a replacement. Besides oil filters
and air filters, your spark plugs and coil are the most disposable
parts on the car. I can GUARANTEE you'll feel a difference if you
replace them. I do have to agree with David in one aspect- if you're
going to replace the coil, do the spark plugs and wires too. It's one
of the cheapest and easiest maintanence things you can do to your car,
and also one of the most important IMO.  You'll get a more complete
burn of the fuel in the cylinder which means better performance and
gas mileage. Especially if you're going to go to a hotter coil, you
really need to invest in new wires. Adding more power to corroded
cracked old wires will only exacerbate wear, and you may notice a DIP
in performance. It's only $50 extra... go for the wires if you're
going to upgrade the ignition.
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
> 
> --- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Unless your old coil is bad you won't notice much improvement. The
> dangers in going with a higher voltage coil are the following:
> The old ignition wires may break down if they aren't already shot
> The "hotter" coil may draw excessive currect from the ECU and burn
it out.
> The cap and rotor are only rated for a certain voltage level. If you
> exceed it then under certain conditions you will get arc-over.
> In general you can't usually get very much by upgrading one component
> in a well engineered system, this is an example. On a positive note
> several (maybe many) have switched ignition coils and find no bad
> effects. At the very least you should consider replacing the secondary
> ignition wires, cap, rotor, and spark plugs to get the full benefits
> of the "hotter" coil (if any). In most cases just replacing all these
> 20 year old parts will do more than a hotter coil.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your
team wins! Free limited-time trial at
http://www.AllSportsMarket.com/Index.asp?Refer=delomail




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 02:37:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DeLorean steering- repaired, results.

Thanks to everyone for explaining steering geometry to me.

All of the situations that could change caster, camber and toe have 
happened to me. Frame damage, you name it. The only way I was ever 
going to find out what was -really- going on was to get it to the 
shop for alignment.

The only way I was going to do that, was to replace as much of the 
front end as I could. Mike Cohee and I put new tie-rod ends and sway 
bar bushings in last night...the final pieces I thought necessary to 
make an attempt at alignment. I owe Mike a public display of 
gratitude for the constant use of his garage and labor (and food) 
during the winter. Thanks Mike.

Well as they say, "It all comes out in the wash". The front end was 
able to be perfectly aligned. Despite everything the frame had been 
through I had zero camber defects. The new bushings eliminated the 
brake pedal pulse that I had. New brake calipers too.

Thanks again everyone.

Rich A.
#5335




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 00:14:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

To test David's theory: pop out an injector and place in a jar, PLUG
THE VACANT INJECTOR PORT (you'll have a catastophic vacuum leak
otherwise), then watch the injector as the engine tries to start. If
it doesn't spray from air sensor plate movement alone, your CO2 screw
is definitely set too lean (assuming CIS is working properly -- see
last paragraph).

I did the same thing to poor Louie G not long ago: we had temporarily
capped off the lower chambers in #5252's fuel distributor. When Lambda
was reactived, the CO2 screw was *3* revolutions too lean. I got his
engine to start by manually lowering the air sensor plate without
touching the throttle plates, enriching his idle mixture (#5252 is
currently running a manual idle -- don't think this would have worked
with CIS). His CO2 screw was adjusted in 1/4 revolution increments
until the engine finally started without additional manual plate action.

Note that a stuck closed idle speed motor will also prevent the engine
from starting. This happened to me as my own CIS was dying. Watch the
air sensor plate as the engine tries to start. If it doesn't move down
from engine vacuum alone, you've either got a stuck closed idle speed
motor or a major vacuum leak is allowing the engine to suck air
someplace else. Air sensor plate movement is of course needed to meter
fuel to the injectors.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Just being able to replace parts is not going to get you runing. You
> really have to be able to diagnose a problem and change just the bad
> part. Now that you are where you are I would try turning the mixture
> screw. It is probably way off. We saw this on a car in Virginia. He
> repalced the mixture unit and it took a turn or 2 to get the
> adjustment close. It seems the mixture units do not come preadjusted
> for Deloreans. You have to remove the tamper-proof plug (if it is
> there) and use a metric allen wrench. Don't forget to plug the hole or
> you will have a large vacuum leak. The procedure is in the Workshop
> Manual D:04:01.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, advantics_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > The car ran when I got it, then one day it just didn't start. I was
> getting 
> > plenty of spark but no fuel when I pulled an injector. When I pulled
> the fuel 
> > line going to the fuel distributor, I had fuel going to it but the
> fuel getting 
> > in the engine was next to nothing. It would sputter and try to start
> but it 
> > would just tease me. I had thought the fuel distributor and
> injectors were 
> > clogged, and so I bought new injectors and took the fuel distributor
> and cold 
> > start valve off my other D. Still the same problem, only difference
> is it will try 
> > to start and sometimes run for 10 or 20 seconds but dies out as soon
> as I 
> > take my foot off the gas. The few seconds that it does run it smokes
> a lot.
> >   I know I got the lines all back correctly and it helps that I have
> another 
> > D to look at, and even swap parts with to see if something bad. It
> runs great, 
> > and I have since tried some of the "bad" parts on it, only to find
> that they 
> > work fine. I don't know these cars at all, but am trying to learn. I




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 00:46:47 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose

Andrew

Ok - Good to know - I have not seen (heard) that one. The noise I 
most often have heard and experienced on all of my D's is a drone 
when the fuel warms up, especially when the outside temp is hot. I 
found that noise to be caused by collapsed padding around the 
coolant lines going under the bottom-side of the fuel tank allowing 
the coolant pipes to touch the tank. I used some new hose as a 
separator/insulator - so far so good.

Harold McElraft - 3354

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Harold,
> A few months ago I found that my fuel pump was making
> a very load whirring/groaning noise like it was
> starved of fuel.I replaced my pick up hose which was
> very soft and maleable.Since then I have had no
> recurrence of that sound.So a pick up hose which is
> kinked,collapsed or has a hole in it can certainly
> cause the pump to make a noise,And a bloody loud one
> at that.
> Andrew
> VIN 2883
> Sydney,Aus.
> --- Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > I have never heard of a fuel pick-up hose causing a
> > noise. What sort 
> > of sound do you hear?
> > 
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: 7 Feb 2004 14:41:19 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews


The following dmcnews poll is now closed.  Here are the 
final results: 


POLL QUESTION: Where do you store your Delorean for the 
winter? 

CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Do not store for Winter, 7 votes, 21.88%  
- Outside with a cover, 1 votes, 3.12%  
- Outside uncovered, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- In a garage covered, 11 votes, 34.38%  
- In a garage uncovered, 11 votes, 34.38%  
- In a Carcoon, 1 votes, 3.12%  
- Under a carport covered, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- Under a carport uncovered, 1 votes, 3.12%  
- In a barn covered, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- In a barn uncovered, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- Other, 0 votes, 0.00%  



For more information about this group, please visit 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/ 

 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: 7 Feb 2004 14:40:34 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews


The following dmcnews poll is now closed.  Here are the 
final results: 


POLL QUESTION: Besides your DeLorean, what is/are the 
brands of your other vehicle/vehicles? 
(This excludes any hot-rods or 
specialty cars - this poll is meant to 
determine which cars are USED ON A 
STEADY BASIS in you household besides 
the DeLorean) You may vote for more 
than one choice. I tried to condense 
car companies... the maximum is 25. 

CHOICES AND RESULTS
- I use only a DeLorean, 4 votes, 4.82%  
- Acura / Honda, 4 votes, 4.82%  
- Audi, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- BMW, 3 votes, 3.61%  
- Buick, 4 votes, 4.82%  
- Cadillac, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Chevrolet, 11 votes, 13.25%  
- Chrysler, 3 votes, 3.61%  
- Dodge, 5 votes, 6.02%  
- Ford, 12 votes, 14.46%  
- GMC, 2 votes, 2.41%  
- Hyundai, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Infiniti / Nissan, 7 votes, 8.43%  
- Jaguar, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Jeep, 4 votes, 4.82%  
- Lexus / Toyota, 2 votes, 2.41%  
- Lincoln, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Mazda, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- Mercedes, 3 votes, 3.61%  
- Mercury, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Mitsubishi, 1 votes, 1.20%  
- Oldsmobile, 2 votes, 2.41%  
- Plymouth, 0 votes, 0.00%  
- Pontiac, 5 votes, 6.02%  
- Volkswagen, 6 votes, 7.23%  



For more information about this group, please visit 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/ 

 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------