From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1864
Date: Monday, February 09, 2004 10:52 AM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. a/c pipe access sealant
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

2. Re: everything turns on but the motor.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Starter circuit theory?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. Spark plug problem, bad.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

6. Re: Re: everything turns on but the motor.
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Starter circuit theory?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Delorean 5096
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

11. Re: Delorean 5096
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

12. Re: Delorean 5096
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

13. Parts Shooping - What do ya have???
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>

15. VIN Numbers
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

16. RE: HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. RE: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Alternator output
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Re: Parts Shooping - What do ya have???
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Re: Alternator output
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

21. Re: Starter circuit theory?
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 22:23:16 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: a/c pipe access sealant

I'm reading the water leak bulletin again because my carpets are getting wet
again....

I've noticed that for some time the wrapping around the A/C pipe inlet into
the dash area has shrunk back. The bulletin says to use "tank tape SP
10403". What is that?
Is that "tank" like a gas tank?
How about a expanding foam in that little hole around the a/c pipes. I've
got another hole on the driver's side that has a clear tube running through
it and the tape has also shrunk back. What is this tube anyway? washer
fluid? vacuum?

Thanks,
Kevin




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 06:40:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: everything turns on but the motor.

Since you asked the list for help the least you can do is let us know
how the problem was resolved for the benefit of others that may have a
similar problem in the future. If you had a "kill" switch and forgot
to unset it there is no embarassment. How many of us had a dead
battery and found that after jmping the car or charging the battery
that we left the lights on? We have all "been there and done that". 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Never mind I got it solved, to embarrassed to say what happen, my 
> fault. But I got it going, sorry.
> 
> Darryl
> 5898




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 07:23:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Starter circuit theory?

Speaking of wierd no-start conditions, after cleaing the fuse 
connections I accidently put a bad fuse in position 1 (runs the idle 
motor and a bunch of the other engine controls) and for some reason 
that I can't divine from the schematic, it caused the starter NOT to 
engage. I've solved the problem (new fuse!) but can't figure out why 
it caused the problem it did. It should have been able to crank but 
not start. 

The starter-inhibit relay would click when I turned the key 
to "start" position. Is this circuit (#1) what actually feeds the hot 
side of that relay? 

Dave S <--(really po'd after swapping the starter with a spare first)




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 06:34:51 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Spark plug problem, bad.

Hello all,

I ask for the assistance of fellow delorean owners.
Perhaps you have seen this problem.


Upon removing the spark plug, the plug breaks bust
below the bolt, being able to remove the ceramic part
of the plug but leaving the metal screw part behind
and in tact.

please view the page of three pictures provided.

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html

does anyone know the best way to remove this.  The
threads should still be good, as in not stripped I
just need to loosen it out.

any answerrs would be helpfull

Jordan

11613


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 17:57:52 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?

Hi all,

I'm looking for LEDs that are direct replacements for the A/C Panel lights...

The A/C Panel lights generate a lot of heat as we all know. I would like to change them out with the correct LEDs. 

I am aware that some LEDs may not be as bright as regular bulbs, but that is of little importance to me, as my only wish is to reduce the heat generated by the regular bulbs.

I still haven't found a source who can supply these. Can somebody on the list help me?

The regular A/C Panel lights are 12V 2W BA 7s.
If anyone can find these as LEDs, please e-mail me and tell me how to order them.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 09:32:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: everything turns on but the motor.

well it will give you a good laugh. I have an automatic trans, and when I bought the car it was missing the slide quadrent. The black slip that fits under the shifter to hide the gears. Well I replaced mine on my own and I guess I didn't get it to fit right. So when I would put the car in P it may have not clicked. So when I shut the car off the other night I turned the key and everything came on but the motor. So the next moring I tried a few more times. Again nothing, so I called my mechanic and asked him what it could be. We know there is something still wrong with it and he wants me to run the car to less then a half tank. This way we don't have to drian thegas so he can get into look at the fuel pump and hose. BTW all my hoses are fine thank god, the overheating didn't damage the hoses. Anyway to get back to the story he told me put the car in N or P to start it, so I went back out took the car out of P and put it back in. And it started fine! Needless to say I felt like an
 idiot, but its running!
 
Opps,
Darryl
5898


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 12:33:49 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.

The fact that it broke like it did may indicate its rusted in place.

I would plug the hole a bit to keep stuff from getting in.then soak the 
threads if you can with WD40 for a while.

They do make an easy out that will fit that size hole but you may have to go 
to a specialty tool store to get one or find one on line.

IF it doesn't you can have the hole resized  close to the thread dimensions.  
Sometimes the easy out then will work better since the thread is not as stiff 
and has some give.

This happened on one I had a few months ago and I was able to just put in an 
oversized flat screwdriver and get a bite on it and it came right out after a 
few days of soaking.

I got lucky.

This is not a hard thing for an auto repair shop to do so the best suggestion 
is take it there and let them take it out.

Burtons by me charges $30 a bolt and although I have few bolts that give me 
problems when there is one that is in an odd place or not worth the effort of 
screwing up I take it there.

That would be my suggestion since a good easy out of that size will cost you 
more in time and materials than taking it somewhere.

This is a totally solvable problem so just don't panic and get help.  If  you 
are near a DMC center take it there.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 17:57:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.

I have never seen a spark plug break like that before. What kind of
plug was it? I can't see from the picture if it is Bosch or Champion,
or Auotlite or what. Anyway you are going to have a lot of trouble
trying to remove it because of the "well" it is in. You would need a
LONG drill or EZ-out or whatever you are going to try to do. My best
advice would be to pull the head and take it to a machine shop. They
can try drilling it out and if necessary put a thread insert in.
Generally when you break something off in aluminum the threads are
messed up anyway either from the part being seized in the first place
or when you do remove it you wind up tearing the threads out. Always
when installing spark plugs you should use anti-seize compound to
prevent this from happening. Actually this is required on ANY steel
fastener in aluminum. If you do pull the head you could do this
yourself. Most large auto shops sell a spark plug rethreading kit. It
comes with a drill bit, a tap, a couple of inserts and a tool to
install it. They are not expensive and the only real important part is
to have the drill perfectly aligned with the hole or the spark plug
will be crooked. I don't think an ezout is going to be of any use. If
it is loose enough to remove with an ezout it would have unscrewed and
not broken.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The fact that it broke like it did may indicate its rusted in place.
> 
> I would plug the hole a bit to keep stuff from getting in.then soak the 
> threads if you can with WD40 for a while.
> 
> They do make an easy out that will fit that size hole but you may
have to go 
> to a specialty tool store to get one or find one on line.
> 
> IF it doesn't you can have the hole resized  close to the thread
dimensions.  
> Sometimes the easy out then will work better since the thread is not
as stiff 
> and has some give.
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 18:25:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Starter circuit theory?

If you believe the schematic circuit #1 should not have anything to do
with the starter circuit. The power for the starter circuit is
actually unfused, coming directly off the ignition switch (not great
but intermittant anyway) The starter circuit is powered only when the
ignition switch is in the "start" position. If it came from somewhere
else it would be powered constantly. You also said the start inhibit
relay is clicking even with fuse 1 out. If the relay clicks then it
should be powering the starter solenoid. You should pull fuse #1, put
a test light on the start inhibit relay and see why you don't get
power to the starter. This could be an error in the schematic or it
could be a wiring error in your car. The #1 circuit is green and the
starter circuit is white/red. Another possability is some kind of
weird back-feed due to a bad or missing ground. If you have a 5-speed
the start inhibit relay doesn't really do much anyway, it is always
"on" unlike the automatic. Refer to M18:01 and M:18:02 and Main wiring
circuit M:18:23 Actually I already see an inconsistancy between
M:18:01 and the Main wiring circuit schematic. Follow "N" in M:18:01
and then look for it in the main wiring circuit. It does not appear on
#105. Maybe this is really coming from #1? Further investigation is
necessary.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Speaking of wierd no-start conditions, after cleaing the fuse 
> connections I accidently put a bad fuse in position 1 (runs the idle 
> motor and a bunch of the other engine controls) and for some reason 
> that I can't divine from the schematic, it caused the starter NOT to 
> engage. I've solved the problem (new fuse!) but can't figure out why 
> it caused the problem it did. It should have been able to crank but 
> not start. 
> 
> The starter-inhibit relay would click when I turned the key 
> to "start" position. Is this circuit (#1) what actually feeds the hot 
> side of that relay? 
> 
> Dave S <--(really po'd after swapping the starter with a spare first)




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 14:23:40 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Delorean 5096

5096 is now on the road. After sitting in a barn for 10 years, it is now 
drivable. Already put 70 miles on it in the last 24 hours driving to 
walters and back and the trip to church. Got a couple issues to fix like 
a high idle and hot start issue, but it runs great.

Now to finish putting the interior together, get the red paint off 
(might cheat though, walter wants a painted car and do a panel swap), 
and fix the smaller problems with the car.

Question though. I have of course a number of melted fuses. I know some 
people just wire in a pigtail (might be the wrong name, fuse inline on 
the wire), while others may swap the panel itself. I was pondering 
getting the panel john hervey has but wanted to see what others have 
done and any known pros/cons.

Question #2, I have a manual shift. My Hyundai accent shifts easily to 
first at low speed, yet the delorean's shift is hard if i'm rolling 
(example, making a turn) but isnt as bad if i'm dead stop. Is there a 
reason for this and a way to fix it or make it easier? I dont really 
want to get into the transmission if I can help it. I also noticed that 
the shifter will move forward/back in rythm with gas being applied. Is 
this bad motor mounts?

Samuel
#5096




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 14:48:44 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Delorean 5096

On Sun, 8 Feb 2004, Samuel wrote:

> Question #2, I have a manual shift. My Hyundai accent shifts easily to
> first at low speed, yet the delorean's shift is hard if i'm rolling
> (example, making a turn) but isnt as bad if i'm dead stop. Is there a
> reason for this and a way to fix it or make it easier? I dont really

Unless the problem is really severe, it doesn't usually indicate any sort
of transmission problem.  All manual transmission cars exhibit this to
some degree.  The synchros in the transmission have to bring the gears and
the transmission input shaft up to the right speed, for everything to
mesh.  The energy to do this comes out of your arm.  The lower gears have
wider-spaced gear ratios, so the difference in speed is greater when
shifting between lower gears.

To reduce the effect of this, you can double-clutch.  Shift to neutral,
release clutch, match the engine revs so that the transmission is already
turning the right speed, then shift into gear.  This also is very good for 
minimizing grinding and other transmission balkiness when shifting.

Using synthetic oil in the transmission can also help.  If the friction in 
the transmission is reduced, it is easier for the synchros to do their job 
so less shifting effort is required.

When at a stop, all the transmission parts are stopped, so there is 
no energy required at all.

As for why it's easier in your Hyundai, I'm not sure.  My first guess 
would be that the transmission parts weigh less and so are easier to 
accelerate.

> want to get into the transmission if I can help it. I also noticed that
> the shifter will move forward/back in rythm with gas being applied. Is
> this bad motor mounts?

Not necessarily bad motor mounts.  It could be motor mounts, transmission
mounts, shifter bushings, shifter linkage adjustment, or normal :)  It is
normal for the engine and transmission to shift an inch or two when there
is a change in load.  Some of this motion gets transferred to the shifter.




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 15:16:56 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Delorean 5096

I wondered about the mounts as when I was heading over the bridge to 
Walter's, doing around 65, the stick wouldnt stay still but vibrated 
every direction.

>Not necessarily bad motor mounts.  It could be motor mounts, transmission
>mounts, shifter bushings, shifter linkage adjustment, or normal :)  It is
>normal for the engine and transmission to shift an inch or two when there
>is a change in load.  Some of this motion gets transferred to the shifter.
>  
>




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 21:27:20 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Parts Shooping - What do ya have???

I wrecked my D a few weeks ago, ran into another car in the rain.
So I need some stuff....

HOOD - either with lines or gas flap
LEFT/FRONT Fender
Front Facia (like new)
Headlight Housings

We all know what everybody charges for this stuff.
If you are willing to sell me some of this stuff for a good
deal and make yourself a few quick bucks, get in touch with 
me and we can do some business.
- Videobob
VIN5278





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2004 22:15:34 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: Re: HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?

Hello Stian,
  I tried searching the UK Search Engines with no luck. But I did go 
back to
LEDtronics web page to see what's new.
It appears that they do have a cross reference for the BA7's bases 
but the
links don't work. So I can't confirm. I'll send them an e-mail and 
see how
much.
I met with there sales guy a couple years ago to compare their 
1157's to
Jamstraits. Jamstraits were brighter. They are very proud of their 
LED's
especially in price.
http://www.netdisty.net/cross/

The screw base type for the glove box is advertised as 12v but only 
shows 5v
and 6v. 12v and over are custom ordered.
https://www.netdisty.net/ds/S3126/default.asp
http://www.ledtronics.com/

To the Gentlemen who are selling the Indiglow Dash Kits, I would be
interested in the indiglow panel for the A/C panel only, without the 
dash.

Regards,
Mike
Vin#1113





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 16:36:13 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: VIN Numbers

Some will say this is my cars sister and others will say the vin is 
just one number higher than my vin, anyway it is cool to see vin#6684 
now i just need to find vin#6682.

Mark
6683
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 22:57:43 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?

Brian
I have been able to break the bulb out of the socket and if your careful the
two connecting wires will still be in contact with the side for ground and
the tip of the base. Due to the time it takes to fabricate the LED's in the
socket is abandoned the process.
John Hervey
The bulb # is a 3898.
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_netcom.no]
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 10:58 AM
To: DOC UK; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] HELP: LEDs for A/C Panel Lights...anyone?


Hi all,

I'm looking for LEDs that are direct replacements for the A/C Panel
lights...

The A/C Panel lights generate a lot of heat as we all know. I would like to
change them out with the correct LEDs.

I am aware that some LEDs may not be as bright as regular bulbs, but that is
of little importance to me, as my only wish is to reduce the heat generated
by the regular bulbs.

I still haven't found a source who can supply these. Can somebody on the
list help me?

The regular A/C Panel lights are 12V 2W BA 7s.
If anyone can find these as LEDs, please e-mail me and tell me how to order
them.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 23:03:46 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Spark plug problem, bad.

Since the threads are sill good and there should be plenty of metal behind
the threads, I would find a easy out or make one or a tool and soak lie the
others said with WD40 and then heat the engine up as much as you can to make
it looser. Then try to unscrew it.
I to have never seen this. Then we will know who has a tool.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Delorean parts





-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 8:35 AM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Spark plug problem, bad.


Hello all,

I ask for the assistance of fellow delorean owners.
Perhaps you have seen this problem.


Upon removing the spark plug, the plug breaks bust
below the bolt, being able to remove the ceramic part
of the plug but leaving the metal screw part behind
and in tact.

please view the page of three pictures provided.

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html

does anyone know the best way to remove this.  The
threads should still be good, as in not stripped I
just need to loosen it out.

any answerrs would be helpfull

Jordan

11613


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 03:04:49 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Alternator output

Now here's a question that I should be able to answer with my 
background but I like to hear what other folks have to say:

Today when I started my car for the drive home from reserve duty I 
observed that the voltmeter now reads just below 13V instead of just 
above. I've lost maybe 1 volt.

The discharge light remains -completely- dark. It does light as it 
should when putting the key to "run" with the engine off so the bulb 
is not burned out.

All loads (lights, fans, etc) draw the same amount as they did 
before, it's just as if the "range" has shifted on the meter. I had 
this alternator rebuilt around a year ago. Is it dying already or is 
there a ground somewhere dorking up the gauge?

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 02:16:09 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Shooping - What do ya have???

Good luck in finding the front left fender for a lower price,
unfortunitly I understand these fenders are the most sought after part
of the DeLorean, since we are all out of them.




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 08:53:43 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Alternator output


Check your fuses !

Ask Mike Cohee, too.


> Now here's a question that I should be able to answer with my 
> background but I like to hear what other folks have to say:
> 
> Today when I started my car for the drive home from reserve duty I 
> observed that the voltmeter now reads just below 13V instead of just 
> above. I've lost maybe 1 volt.
> 
> The discharge light remains -completely- dark. It does light as it 
> should when putting the key to "run" with the engine off so the bulb 
> is not burned out.
> 
> All loads (lights, fans, etc) draw the same amount as they did 
> before, it's just as if the "range" has shifted on the meter. I had 
> this alternator rebuilt around a year ago. Is it dying already or is 
> there a ground somewhere dorking up the gauge?
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335

-- 
GMX ProMail (250 MB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS, Virenschutz, 2,99 EUR/Monat...)
jetzt 3 Monate GRATIS + 3x DER SPIEGEL +++ http://www.gmx.net/derspiegel +++




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 23:24:09 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Starter circuit theory?

Hi Dave,

Funny you should mention this... I had a similar problem just today.  I
decided to unhook my door lock module at the circuit breaker (brown wire)
and was surprised to find that my car wouldn't start after I unhooked it.
The symptom was the same: my start inhibit relay would click, but no start.
Considering the only item that these circuits have in common is the inertia
switch, it had me confused.  I should also note the car would run fine when
I roll-started it.

After studying the wiring diagram, I noticed that my car (early, 1063) had
the starter update done, but the "new" wire that is recommended by the
service bulletin had been rather lazily run to the door lock circuit
breaker!  So no power to the door locks meant no power to the starter.  I
found this strange on my seemingly otherwise unhacked car.  After putting
the wire on the correct breaker, the car fired right up, smooth as silk.

I'm assuming the car you're working on is not your late(r) 81?  If not, it's
something to think about.  I guess you never know what might of happened to
the wiring in the last 23 years...

For me and 1063,
Jake Kamphoefner


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 1:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Starter circuit theory?


> Speaking of wierd no-start conditions, after cleaing the fuse
> connections I accidently put a bad fuse in position 1 (runs the idle
> motor and a bunch of the other engine controls) and for some reason
> that I can't divine from the schematic, it caused the starter NOT to
> engage. I've solved the problem (new fuse!) but can't figure out why
> it caused the problem it did. It should have been able to crank but
> not start.
>
> The starter-inhibit relay would click when I turned the key
> to "start" position. Is this circuit (#1) what actually feeds the hot
> side of that relay?
>
> Dave S <--(really po'd after swapping the starter with a spare first)
>




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