From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1865
Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 9:21 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Net>

3. Re: Alternator output
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com

5. Re: Alternator output
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

6. For sale in Austin: never been titled!
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

7. Re: Starter circuit theory?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: For sale in Austin: never been titled!
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

13. Re: Rusty Engine Components on Sitting DeLoreans
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. RE: Starter circuit theory?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Battery is going dead...
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. New owner and new to this group
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

20. RE: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Jacking a DMC
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

22. Car almost dies when idling in drive
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Changing Coil
From: "giesel" <marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se>

24. Hi !! starting problems
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

25. How easy is it to replace the dashboard
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 15:23:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.

I had a long discussion about this with Ken K. He has a car that had 3
like this! His theory is water got into the spark plug wells and
corroded the shell of the spark plug so much that it was thin from
rust and broke when trying to remove. In his case they unscrewed after
soaking with liquid and a large flat-bladed screwdriver. Just a good
reason to have good spark plug wires so water won't get in there. It
is also something to be aware of if you find a Delorean "cheap" that
has been sitting for a long time outdoors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Since the threads are sill good and there should be plenty of metal
behind
> the threads, I would find a easy out or make one or a tool and soak
lie the
> others said with WD40 and then heat the engine up as much as you can
to make
> it looser. Then try to unscrew it.
> I to have never seen this. Then we will know who has a tool.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> Delorean parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 8:35 AM
> To: dmcnewsgroup
> Subject: [DML] Spark plug problem, bad.
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I ask for the assistance of fellow delorean owners.
> Perhaps you have seen this problem.
> 
> 
> Upon removing the spark plug, the plug breaks bust
> below the bolt, being able to remove the ceramic part
> of the plug but leaving the metal screw part behind
> and in tact.
> 
> please view the page of three pictures provided.
> 
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html
> 
> does anyone know the best way to remove this.  The
> threads should still be good, as in not stripped I
> just need to loosen it out.
> 
> any answerrs would be helpfull
> 
> Jordan
> 
> 11613
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:22:40 -0000
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Net>
Subject: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.

You  could try one of these: 
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00953153000&tab=specs#tablink

Just add a bit of the liquid wrench wait about ten minutes and try 
it.  I cant say I've ever seen anything like that.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I ask for the assistance of fellow delorean owners.
> Perhaps you have seen this problem.
> 
> 
> Upon removing the spark plug, the plug breaks bust
> below the bolt, being able to remove the ceramic part
> of the plug but leaving the metal screw part behind
> and in tact.
> 
> please view the page of three pictures provided.
> 
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html
> 
> does anyone know the best way to remove this.  The
> threads should still be good, as in not stripped I
> just need to loosen it out.
> 
> any answerrs would be helpfull
> 
> Jordan
> 
> 11613
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 15:28:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator output

If the battery is low the voltmeter will read low until it brings it
back up to a full charge. The guage will also read low for the
following reasons:
Loose belt
Bad output diode
Bad ground for the guages (check by the front left tire on the frame)
Dirty battery connection
Bad battery
You can have the battery and alternator tested for free usually at
most large chain stores like Sears, the other things you can check
yourself.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Now here's a question that I should be able to answer with my 
> background but I like to hear what other folks have to say:
> 
> Today when I started my car for the drive home from reserve duty I 
> observed that the voltmeter now reads just below 13V instead of just 
> above. I've lost maybe 1 volt.
> 
> The discharge light remains -completely- dark. It does light as it 
> should when putting the key to "run" with the engine off so the bulb 
> is not burned out.
> 
> All loads (lights, fans, etc) draw the same amount as they did 
> before, it's just as if the "range" has shifted on the meter. I had 
> this alternator rebuilt around a year ago. Is it dying already or is 
> there a ground somewhere dorking up the gauge?
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 17:18:16 GMT
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight


My 7,000 mile DeLorean starts beautifully each day.  When I get where I'm going, I turn it off, and in a little why try and start, it wants to start (all the typicall noises, etc.) but just won't turn over unless you spray a burst of starting fluid, then pow! it fires right up.  It can sit for a few hours and fully cool down and it still has this starting problem.  If you wait overnight, however, that is long enough and it starts beautifully.  Is this likely a spark plug problem or a fuel problem?   Or a hot start problem (even though cooled down)?   Thanks Curt.  P.S - I started to replace the spark plugs because it was dropping a cylinder when raining (splash interference) and that problem was solved with only one new plug and it has also improved this starting problem somewhat.  (I've only put one new plug in - working toward the other 5 - I do things gradually. :)   



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:44:37 -0500
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output

Rich and I did that first thing :-) But it was dark, and like 10 degrees outside so I know he will check them at daybreak or when the east coast gets a spring thaw :-)

Mike C



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 11:36:43 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: For sale in Austin: never been titled!

I was thumbing through Austin's weekly paper and, just for fun, looked under "D" in the
automotive classifieds.  Lo and behold, a DeLorean for sale:

    http://www.austinchronicle.com/motor/

          DELOREAN DMC12 '81 stainless steel gull wing.
          9K miles. original owner. V6 5 speed low VIN
          (1062) Garage kept Superb excellent original
          condition Has many collector characteristics only
          avail on ltd # of DeLoreans $25,500.
          512-345-3747

I called the owner to see why I didn't know him, and discovered that he was the local
DMC dealer in 1981 and this is the first DeLorean delivered to Austin.  He kept it all
these years in his home garage as an investment and it has NEVER BEEN TITLED.  You could
still be the legal "original" owner!

The car has been driven only on Sundays (no kidding) weather permitting of course.  It
has 10k miles and is almost completely original, including original NCTs.  This is
obviously a candidate for concours.

If anyone is interested in this car, let me know and I will arrange to inspect it and/or
take photos.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN #4695


P.S.  TRUTH IN ADVERTISING:  I did not know the seller until yesterday.  I got the
seller's permission to post this info here and was offered a commission but instead
chose to do this as a service to the DeLorean community.   I have no direct interest,
financial or otherwise, in the sale of this vehicle other than seeing it find a loving
home.  So why don't *I* buy it, hmmmmm?  Well, I already have a DeLorean, and I don't
have $25k, that's why.  If my lotto numbers hit on Wednesday then consider the car sold.




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 18:09:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Starter circuit theory?

This is kind of a frankenstein car - the one I'm rebuilding from a 
burned car and a wreck. The entire electrical system - wiring harness 
and all, is out of the wrecked car, and I'm not really sure of the 
vintage of that one but I think its about 10/81. I think you are 
right - there is something "undocumented" in the wiring. At this 
point it's a non-issue but I would really like to understand it. I'll 
dive back into it with a voltmeter when I get a chance - an about a 
week. This also seems like the kind of thing where someone may have 
hacked the wiring to install a security system.

My guess is that the ignition switch kicks the relay, but the relay 
is sourced from fuse #1 instead of main power (not shown in the 
schematic at all). In fact I think that the relay is supposed to pe 
self-powered from ignition switch, since it's only purpose is to 
block starting when not in "park" (which has no function at all on a 
manaul but they leave it in there for consistency in manufacturing).

If I can trace it to that I'll rewire it since I think a 10A fuse is 
a bit light for the starter solenoid.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Funny you should mention this... I had a similar problem just 
today.  I
> decided to unhook my door lock module at the circuit breaker (brown 
wire)
> and was surprised to find that my car wouldn't start after I 
unhooked it.
> The symptom was the same: my start inhibit relay would click, but 
no start.
> Considering the only item that these circuits have in common is the 
inertia
> switch, it had me confused.  I should also note the car would run 
fine when
> I roll-started it.
> 





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 16:52:31 EST
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

I pulled the injector and plugged the hole, but didn't get any fuel. When 
starting the car it "acts" like it wants to start but the second you let of the 
key it dies. I'm getting fuel to the distributor but not to the injectors. It 
seems like the only gas the engine is getting is through the cold start valve. 
Like I said previously, I've replaced everything from the tank to the 
injectors but I'm not getting fuel to the engine. I haven't replaced the frequency 
valve yet. Could it be gummed and stuck open, or am I chasing my tail again?

Thanks
John 5326 &1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:21:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

Slowly lower the air sensor plate as the engine is cranking. If the
injector then starts to spray, your CO2 screw is set way too lean.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, advantics_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I pulled the injector and plugged the hole, but didn't get any fuel.
When 
> starting the car it "acts" like it wants to start but the second you
let of the 
> key it dies. I'm getting fuel to the distributor but not to the
injectors. It 
> seems like the only gas the engine is getting is through the cold
start valve. 
> Like I said previously, I've replaced everything from the tank to the 
> injectors but I'm not getting fuel to the engine. I haven't replaced
the frequency 
> valve yet. Could it be gummed and stuck open, or am I chasing my
tail again?
> 
> Thanks
> John 5326 &1383
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 17:37:57 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

Drops just around 8 volts, yes that low _at_dml_ IDLE!
With A/C and lights and radio on, it was fine six months ago when it was running before.  Then radio shuts off and of course comes back on after I give it gas.
Aftermaket AC Delco ALT., (maybe a year and a half old) I believe 110 output but I have to check.  
What could be the cause just started the other day and have not had a chance to diagnosis?
  



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 19:01:23 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

John, Pore a small amount of fuel into the air flow meter plate and see if
the car will start. If it does and then dies, Then enrich the 02 adjustment.
The control plunger in the fuel distributor may be to far down. What causes
it to be to far down and not rising high enough is vacuum leak or adjustment
over time get to much play or wear down.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:advantics_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 3:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)


I pulled the injector and plugged the hole, but didn't get any fuel. When
starting the car it "acts" like it wants to start but the second you let of
the
key it dies. I'm getting fuel to the distributor but not to the injectors.
It
seems like the only gas the engine is getting is through the cold start
valve.
Like I said previously, I've replaced everything from the tank to the
injectors but I'm not getting fuel to the engine. I haven't replaced the
frequency
valve yet. Could it be gummed and stuck open, or am I chasing my tail again?

Thanks
John 5326 &1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 19:05:15 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: For sale in Austin: never been titled!

Wow... Looks like this car (1062) is my "sister" (1063) car.  If anyone buys
this car, or could get some pictures, I'd be interested.

Thanks for posting the ad, Gus.  But obviously I don't have $25,500 under my
mattress either.  :-)

Jake Kamphoefner
VIN 001063 --> Bought new in Colorado, driven home to California, spent 5
months in Washington, and now rests in Southern Illinois.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 11:36 AM
Subject: [DML] For sale in Austin: never been titled!


> I was thumbing through Austin's weekly paper and, just for fun, looked
under "D" in the
> automotive classifieds.  Lo and behold, a DeLorean for sale:
>
>     http://www.austinchronicle.com/motor/
>
>           DELOREAN DMC12 '81 stainless steel gull wing.
>           9K miles. original owner. V6 5 speed low VIN
>           (1062) Garage kept Superb excellent original
>           condition Has many collector characteristics only
>           avail on ltd # of DeLoreans $25,500.
>           512-345-3747
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:30:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rusty Engine Components on Sitting DeLoreans

I'm approaching end of clutch replacement on a DeLo that has sat
outdoors for most of its life. Input shaft was totally rusted to the
clutch disc. Couldn't even pry the transmission back (disc would flex,
then pop right back). Had to turn it off with nuts squeezed between
block and bellhousing, turning on threaded rods through the bolt holes.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I had a long discussion about this with Ken K. He has a car that had 3
> like this! His theory is water got into the spark plug wells and
> corroded the shell of the spark plug so much that it was thin from
> rust and broke when trying to remove. In his case they unscrewed after
> soaking with liquid and a large flat-bladed screwdriver. Just a good
> reason to have good spark plug wires so water won't get in there. It
> is also something to be aware of if you find a Delorean "cheap" that
> has been sitting for a long time outdoors.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > Since the threads are sill good and there should be plenty of metal
> behind
> > the threads, I would find a easy out or make one or a tool and soak
> lie the
> > others said with WD40 and then heat the engine up as much as you can
> to make
> > it looser. Then try to unscrew it.
> > I to have never seen this. Then we will know who has a tool.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialtauto.com
> > Delorean parts
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...]
> > Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 8:35 AM
> > To: dmcnewsgroup
> > Subject: [DML] Spark plug problem, bad.
> > 
> > 
> > Hello all,
> > 
> > I ask for the assistance of fellow delorean owners.
> > Perhaps you have seen this problem.
> > 
> > 
> > Upon removing the spark plug, the plug breaks bust
> > below the bolt, being able to remove the ceramic part
> > of the plug but leaving the metal screw part behind
> > and in tact.
> > 
> > please view the page of three pictures provided.
> > 
> > http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html
> > 
> > does anyone know the best way to remove this.  The
> > threads should still be good, as in not stripped I
> > just need to loosen it out.
> > 
> > any answerrs would be helpfull
> > 
> > Jordan
> > 
> > 11613
> > 
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 19:59:07 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Spark plug problem, bad.

In a message dated 2/9/2004 10:53:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Net writes:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00953153000&tab=specs#tablink
I have a set of these 
unless the threads are loose to begin with forget it.

the old fasion reverse thread easy outs work better.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 02:55:29 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Starts after sitting overnight

Sounds like the classic fuel-accumulator problem to me. Has it ever 
been replaced?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, FSMinc_at_dml_j... wrote:
> 
> My 7,000 mile DeLorean starts beautifully each day.  When I get 
where I'm going, I turn it off, and in a little why try and start, 
it wants to start (all the typicall noises, etc.) but just won't 
turn over unless you spray a burst of starting fluid, then pow! it 
fires right up.  It can sit for a few hours and fully cool down and 
it still has this starting problem.  If you wait overnight, however, 
that is long enough and it starts beautifully.  Is this likely a 
spark plug problem or a fuel problem?   Or a hot start problem (even 
though cooled down)?   Thanks Curt.  P.S - I started to replace the 
spark plugs because it was dropping a cylinder when raining (splash 
interference) and that problem was solved with only one new plug and 
it has also improved this starting problem somewhat.  (I've only put 
one new plug in - working toward the other 5 - I do things 
gradually. :)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 21:45:30 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Starter circuit theory?

Dave, By reading the existing diagram, The main relay and the aux relay are
both activated by the key switch. At that point the power terminal terminal
#30 is coming from the brown wires off the back of the
alternator/solenoid/battery. Then when the relay's close the power is going
to #1 fuse instead of coming from #1 Fuse. #1 from the diagram is feeding
power to the ECU's via the green wire and other components. M:18:02 is a
little mis leading because they aren't consistent in the electrical drawings
of the position or power terminal input of the main & aux relay's.
The ignition switch is only activating the main relay and the aux relay not
carrying the current load.
The 105 ( Start Inhibit ) relay is getting is however getting the power from
the heavy brown wires from the alt to the ign switch to activate the starter
solenoid.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 12:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Starter circuit theory?


This is kind of a frankenstein car - the one I'm rebuilding from a
burned car and a wreck. The entire electrical system - wiring harness
and all, is out of the wrecked car, and I'm not really sure of the
vintage of that one but I think its about 10/81. I think you are
right - there is something "undocumented" in the wiring. At this
point it's a non-issue but I would really like to understand it. I'll
dive back into it with a voltmeter when I get a chance - an about a
week. This also seems like the kind of thing where someone may have
hacked the wiring to install a security system.

[Moderator snip]



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 03:59:50 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Battery is going dead...

I am new to the mailing list. I purchased my 2nd DeLorean about a 
month ago. It is VIN #1913. When I got the car and it would have no 
problem starting up everytime. In the past week it seems like my 
battery is draining for some strange reason. I jump it and it fires 
right up. THe battery is good. I do not know about the alternator. 
When it runs for a while and I kill it, it will start right back up. 
Its the overnight sitting that is the problem. I would really like 
some advice if anyone can give me a "hey try this out" first before 
I have something done (i.e. have the alternator rebuilt) And one 
more question..why do DeLoreans "surge" in RPMs when it is cold? 
FYI. I sold my first Delorean about 4 years ago (6906). So I do not 
own two.


Thanks for your help,
Adam Lee
VIN #1913




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 22:02:01 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Starts after sitting overnight

I concur with Harold. The hot start problem with the accumulator and
possible primary pressure regulator in the fuel distributor.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-injection.html





-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 8:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Starts after sitting overnight


Sounds like the classic fuel-accumulator problem to me. Has it ever
been replaced?

Harold McElraft - 3354


[Moderator snip]



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 21:56:54 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: New owner and new to this group

Hello:

I am a new DeLorean owner taking possession of my car today as a result of a
lien sale purchase.

The car has probably not been operational for more than two years and will
need to have the fuel system completely cleaned with some component
replacements.

I had it hauled on a flatbed truck to European Car Service in San Bruno,
California which is across the bay from by Oakland residence.

I have no knowledge of the condition of the engine and running gear.  The
body is in very good shape.

I know very little about these cars and will probably have many questions.
Please be patient with my search for knowledge.

Best regards,
Roland Smith
#6667
Oakland, California





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 22:07:56 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

What is your idle speed.
Regulator could still be blown and light come on and off if it's bad.
Is it one of my alternators.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 7:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] ALTERNATOR OUTPUT


Drops just around 8 volts, yes that low _at_dml_ IDLE!
With A/C and lights and radio on, it was fine six months ago when it was
running before.  Then radio shuts off and of course comes back on after I
give it gas.
Aftermaket AC Delco ALT., (maybe a year and a half old) I believe 110 output
but I have to check.
What could be the cause just started the other day and have not had a chance
to diagnosis?




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:59:25 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Jacking a DMC

I don't think any of the methods mentioned really increases the
probability of someone trying to get into the Delorean.  

If someone really wants to get in, they would break the tollbooth window
with a $3 glass punch (or a brick) long before they take off the driver's
side wheel.  On another note, the inertia switch might be able to be
popped through the speedo access hole.  

Jim
1537

On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:06:14 EST BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com writes:
> Well I'm glad I know how to jack a DMC now...
> 
> "I heard a clever way of unlocking the doors a few weeks/months 
> ago... The
> message (which evades me now) says that hitting the fibreglass just 
> in
> front of the inertia switch (to the rear of the driver's wheel) can 
> make
> the inertia switch trip.  The switch cuts the ground to the fuel 
> pump,
> but also disengages the door locks as a sort of "safety feature"."
> 


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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 21:53:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Car almost dies when idling in drive

Hello everyone,
 
  As my list of completed repairs becomes ever so longer, I have stumbled upon a new problem.  This weekend, another DeLorean owner and I did a couple repairs.  The repairs included adjusting that hole in the air venturi to keep the car from continually running rich (used a specific tool to adjust inside the hole from rich to a bit more lean - this also fixed the car's "winding idle" problem where it would idle up and down continuously from 900-2000rpm over and over when in park), replaced all 18 fuses in the electrical system, replaced the front rotors, replaced one of the rubber hoses on the left-side cooling pipe leading to the radiator (directly behind the driver side front wheel; it was VERY plump and ready to burst), changed the bulb on my front left turn signal, and adjusted the fastening rods on my passenger side door so now my door shuts perfectly.  Alas, the car got a little grumpy and decided to give me two new problems.  First, the car overheats - tested the otterstat -
 otterstat failed, that problem solved.  The other problem has gone so far unsolved - here it is:
 
  (AUTO tranny)  Start the car, go for a drive.  Come to a stop sign with the car in drive gear.  The car will idle fine for about 7-8 seconds and then the cycling motion of the idling will slow down just a bit.  The dash lights will all dim just a bit (NOT completely go out..just dim) as the cycling slows down, and then the cycling will resume its regular idle.  The dash lights will all brighten again as the car retains its regular idle.  The process will repeat itself over and over.  Once the car in Drive actually died on me while at a stop sign..and it will occasionally almost completely die...IF I shift the car into Neutral, the car will idle perfectly - no problems whatsoever.  I have let the car idle for roughly 10 straight minutes in neutral and there isn't one problem..shift it back to drive and the problem will reoccur.
 
I hope I described the problem clearly; I know it's hard to understand perfectly without actually being here to see and hear it.  If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.  Oh, the car also will start in reverse and drive - that sounds like a failure of the microswitch/neutral-safety switch in the auto-tranny computer governor.
 
Someday, I will post a list of my repairs up to that current day; I think alot of you would be well-pleased with how far #003299 has come.  I'm telling you all right now; this one was headed for a junkyard.  If any of you are worried about "our population" dwindling, fear not - we are reviving one as we speak.  In fact, this car is revived; it's just being fickle and fussy right now...I guess with that given, I own a DeLorean ;).
 


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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:44:07 -0000
From: "giesel" <marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se>
Subject: Re: Changing Coil

Thank you for answering! The thing is that I live in Sweden and I 
have not planned to buy anything from the US until after 
summer.. But I Can buy both Bosch and MSD right here in 
Stockholm. Ive´already changed wires, plugs, rotor and cap the 
only things I have left is coil and cap. Can you recomend any 
Bosch for me I woulb be really happy!


/Marcus



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> Marcus, You won't burn up anything but the road. The Delorean 
as you know
> has a 1 ohm ballast resistor that feeds the coil. Couple that 
with the
> resistance in the coil and you will be ok. You can use anything 
from a .7
> ohm to a 1.5 ohm coil. Note the ones on the web site to help 
you choose the
> good one for you.
> John Hervey
> Delorean parts
>    
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/performance-pac
kage.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
[Moderator snip]



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:32:51 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Hi !! starting problems

Hi i'm new in here so ill present myself : im from canada, quebec 
and just bought a delorean 1981 3months ago...but now i have big 
problem and really need help !!! here it is : its winter now so i 
put the delorean in the garage and started tune up it a bit...the 
problem began when i changed the distributor/plugs wires....i 
removed the air/fuel unit and change them....the car never start 
good since then...i make many test to find the problem but summer is 
coming and begins to get rid off that engine bay and unburned gas 
all that stuff... so, i removed the air/fuel mixture unit to be sure 
that the big vacuum hose from the idle speed regulator was correctly 
plugged, it was, i réinstall all the stuff, check all other vacuum 
lines, all is ok, i loose the bolt for the throttle plate to be sure 
they were 100% closed, now it start, runs at 2000rpm for about 3-
4secs, drop to about 700-800 rpm but have a VERY ROUGH IDLE, i must 
play with airflow sensor plate and accelerator cable to keep the 
engine running, after 5-6 mins it will run by itself at 800rpm, i 
also tried to bypass the thermistor for idling ecu : put a jumper 
between pin 9 and 11 on the ecu plug, no success, now i dont know 
what to check... is the sensor plate can be adjusted ? 

but i must specify here that the car was working fine before !!

thanks
yan




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:56:39 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: How easy is it to replace the dashboard

Good morning, 

I am considering a Delorean purchase, but according to the seller, 
there are dash cracks, and the owner is presently using a cover on 
the dash.  I see that PJ Grady sells the dashboard for approximately 
$800.  Is it difficult to replace the dashboard if I were to do it 
myself?

Thanks




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