From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1866
Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:25 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Door Torsion Bar Torque Value
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

2. Re: How easy is it to replace the dashboard
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. RE: New owner and new to this group
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

4. Judging interest in a Zilla-compatible Switchblade Key
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

5. Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: FREDRAVAS_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com

7. RE: Re: Changing Coil
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Last Chance to join the Fridge Run
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

9. What to do when your trailing arm bolt is too bent....
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Battery is going dead...
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

11. Atlantic City Classic Car Auction - DeLorean
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Car almost dies when idling in drive
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Door Torsion Bar Torque Value
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Battery is going dead...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Hi !! starting problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Jacking a DMC
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Door Torsion Bar Torque Value
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. freeze 12
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight
From: FREDRAVAS_at_dml_aol.com

21. New Product
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: freeze 12
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

23. Re: Changing Coil
From: "giesel" <marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se>

24. Re: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: New Product
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:43:47 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Door Torsion Bar Torque Value

Has anyone ever recorded the torque value of the door torsion bar while
adjusting it?
 
It seems to me that having that value would make it much easier to hit the
correct notch when adjusting the torsion bar.
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 17:56:12 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: How easy is it to replace the dashboard

Depends on how handy you are. You have to take most all of it apart 
first, i.e. console, binnacle, kneepads, glovebox etc. 2 really hard 
parts - getting at the retaining nut that's above and behind the 
radio, and getting the pad off without removing the a-pillar covers 
that are glued under the windshield glass, although I've heard that 
it can be done with some force. I just did this but on the car I was 
working on the a-pillar covers were already off. Plan on a long 
weekend. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Good morning, 
> 
> I am considering a Delorean purchase, but according to the seller, 
> there are dash cracks, and the owner is presently using a cover on 
> the dash.  I see that PJ Grady sells the dashboard for 
approximately 
> $800.  Is it difficult to replace the dashboard if I were to do it 
> myself?
> 
> Thanks




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:28:07 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: New owner and new to this group

Roland,

You have a great resource right near you.

Check out http://www.ncdmc.org/.

They are an active group of owners and I believe that there are members in
your city.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 


-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Smith [mailto:roland_at_dml_dnai.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 11:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New owner and new to this group


Hello:

I am a new DeLorean owner taking possession of my car today as a result of a
lien sale purchase.

The car has probably not been operational for more than two years and will
need to have the fuel system completely cleaned with some component
replacements.

I had it hauled on a flatbed truck to European Car Service in San Bruno,
California which is across the bay from by Oakland residence.

I have no knowledge of the condition of the engine and running gear.  The
body is in very good shape.

I know very little about these cars and will probably have many questions.
Please be patient with my search for knowledge.

Best regards,
Roland Smith
#6667
Oakland, California





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 19:53:20 -0000
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Judging interest in a Zilla-compatible Switchblade Key

Hello group,

I am in the process of creating a prototype of a "later-style VW
Switchblade Key" for our little silver cars. I am also working on
making it compatible with the LockZilla remote product line. If all
goes as planned, you would be able to replace your lockZilla remote
and single key with a switchblade style integrated Zilla Remote and key.

What is the interest in such a product and what is the affordable
price range people see paying for such an item??

As a side note I would like to also inform the list that I have a
local locksmith that will cut keys to code for Deloreans for $20 for
the code cut and 1 key. When making my own key, I was able to keep the
code cut blank as my master for future copies. Costs are $20 for the
code cut key and $2 for a copy onto a provided (molded) blank. I think
regular copies onto their X29 blanks is also $2.

For a total of $30 including tax I got the following:

1 - code cut master
2 - X29 copies
2 - copies onto DMC-H reproduction keys

regards,

Michael
vin 6067




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:11:39 EST
From: FREDRAVAS_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight

I AGREE 100% ITS THE FUEL ACCUMULATOR CULPRIT!!! HAPPENED TO ME TOO, AFTER I 
REPLACED IT , EVERYTHING IS A OK!!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:43:52 GMT
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight


The fuel accumulator is original.  You may be right about that needing to be replaced.   I hear it is in a tight place in the frame.  I have a buddy who lives a few blocks away, beleive it or not, who has done it on his DeLorean and is willing to help me as well.  He's an medical doctor and no slouch so I trust his skill - he has also overhauled a 60s mustang too.   Nice to be talented.  Nice at least to know talented people!  :)



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:38:56 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Changing Coil

Marcus:
I and I'm sure we understand your in Sweden. The MSD may be a little to much
if the wires aren't changed. It's normally rated at .7 ohms and coupled with
our resistor on the rear fire wall is appx 1.7 ohms. Rated out put is 45,000
volts. If you measure the Bosch standard coil what ever it reads it has less
primary windings and it would be a lower out put that the 7mm wires will
handle fine. Should be rated about 12,000 volts out put. I would use the
Bosch again if not changing the wires or they will break down faster or leak
to ground.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: giesel [mailto:marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se]
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 2:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Changing Coil


Thank you for answering! The thing is that I live in Sweden and I
have not planned to buy anything from the US until after
summer.. But I Can buy both Bosch and MSD right here in
Stockholm. Ive´already changed wires, plugs, rotor and cap the
only things I have left is coil and cap. Can you recomend any
Bosch for me I woulb be really happy!


/Marcus



[Moderator snip]



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 16:55:10 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Last Chance to join the Fridge Run

Well it's not really the last chance but we are trying to get a final head
count inorder to finalize arangements at the different venues.

Thursday Feb 19th - Rich A Departs the DC area
Early Friday Feb 20th - Rich and company depart North Carolina and meet
Farrar at I-10 I-75 junction
Friday Feb 20th - Meet in Tampa
Saturday Feb 21st - Fort Myers Tech Session
Sunday Feb 22nd - Social day, Cruise to beach, Photo's at different land
marks, And much much more.

Directions and times are posted at www.fldmc.com

Mark Levy and Roger Brogren, will you be joining us?  You are the only two
that I am not sure of.

If anyone else wants to come along please email me off the list and I will
get you all the details.


Andrei





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:09:24 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: What to do when your trailing arm bolt is too bent....

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/tabgrinding.JPG

Just found this while rooting around in some old photos.

Martin





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:24:26 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Battery is going dead...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am new to the mailing list. I purchased my 2nd DeLorean about a 
> month ago. It is VIN #1913. When I got the car and it would have no 
> problem starting up everytime. In the past week it seems like my 
> battery is draining for some strange reason. I jump it and it fires 
> right up. THe battery is good. I do not know about the alternator. 
> When it runs for a while and I kill it, it will start right back up. 
> Its the overnight sitting that is the problem. I would really like 
> some advice if anyone can give me a "hey try this out" first before 
> I have something done (i.e. have the alternator rebuilt) And one 
> more question..why do DeLoreans "surge" in RPMs when it is cold? 
> FYI. I sold my first Delorean about 4 years ago (6906). So I do not 
> own two.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Adam Lee
> VIN #1913

Hello Adam, and welcome to the DML...

Your problem could be that the lights in the doors are staying on even
with the doors closed.  The plunger thingy that controls the lights
may not be pushed in far enough when the doors are closed.  A common
problem with these cars it seems.  Also the glove box light could be
on all the time too.  Will kill a battery if left long enough.

Richard
5853




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 17:33:39 -0500
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Atlantic City Classic Car Auction - DeLorean

Just wanted to pass on that the Atlantic City Classic Car Auction is takikng place on February 26-29th here in NJ at the Atlantic City Convention Center.  There is a DeLorean listed to be auctioned on Friday the 27th.  Looks like a nice car.   You can see pics on the website listed below under the Vehicle Listings section.  There is a large vendor section as well.  I plan to be there on the 27th all day so if anyone else is going that day send me an email.

http://www.acclassiccars.com

Gary Gore
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com









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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:09:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Car almost dies when idling in drive

To get the car to idle smoothly you need to go over the whole top of
the engine and fix every vacuum leak. Usually this means replacing all
the "O" rings, injector seals, vacuum hoses, gapping the spark plugs,
cleaning the fuel injectors, replacing the secondary ignition wires,
cap and rotor. Now you can troubleshoot the idle motor system, it
should hold the RPM's steady after you do all that. Since you messed
with the mixture screw you will also have to get the car on an
analyzer to get it set right. It should idle smoothly in park,
neutral, or drive automatic or manual.  You are finding out that many
problems underlie more serious ones and you don't know about them
until you fix the bigger ones, then the smaller ones now stand out.
BTW did you put a plug in the hole over the mixture screw? You should
change ALL the coolant hoses, they are all the same age and a leak
anywhere will cause the total loss of coolant.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>  
>   As my list of completed repairs becomes ever so longer, I have
stumbled upon a new problem.  This weekend, another DeLorean owner and
I did a couple repairs.  The repairs included adjusting that hole in
the air venturi to keep the car from continually running rich (used a
specific tool to adjust inside the hole from rich to a bit more lean -
this also fixed the car's "winding idle" problem where it would idle
up and down continuously from 900-2000rpm over and over when in park),
replaced all 18 fuses in the electrical system, replaced the front 




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:13:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Torsion Bar Torque Value

After some experience you can get very close. It is just about 90
degrees. I am usually within 1 spline when I do it for the first time.
I suppose the torque value may vary depending on the door and whether
the lock guides are metal or plastic.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...>
wrote:
> Has anyone ever recorded the torque value of the door torsion bar while
> adjusting it?
>  
> It seems to me that having that value would make it much easier to
hit the
> correct notch when adjusting the torsion bar.
>  
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
> DOC-UK 357 Magnum
> DOA
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:55:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Battery is going dead...

One of the most common reasons for a dead battery is the plunger
switches on the doors. There should be a rubber tip. They wear out and
fall off. When they are missing the plunger isn't pushed far enough to
turn the lights off and you don't notice because the lights on the
doors can't be seen when the doors are closed. Pull a wire off each
switch and see if that helps.
 A slight hunting when first started is normal.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am new to the mailing list. I purchased my 2nd DeLorean about a 
> month ago. It is VIN #1913. When I got the car and it would have no 
> problem starting up everytime. In the past week it seems like my 
> battery is draining for some strange reason. I jump it and it fires 
> right up. THe battery is good. I do not know about the alternator. 
> When it runs for a while and I kill it, it will start right back up. 
> Its the overnight sitting that is the problem. I would really like 
> some advice if anyone can give me a "hey try this out" first before 
> I have something done (i.e. have the alternator rebuilt) And one 
> more question..why do DeLoreans "surge" in RPMs when it is cold? 
> FYI. I sold my first Delorean about 4 years ago (6906). So I do not 
> own two.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Adam Lee
> VIN #1913




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:20:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hi !! starting problems

Inspect the air tube going to the idle motor. Very common for it to
leak and it is difficult to install. You may have munched up the brass
ring that holds the "O" ring to seal the pipe. It fits into the
underside of the mixture unit. Go over ALL the work you did looking
for any small vaccum hoses you may have forgot to reinstall or hooked
up incorrectly. Pay particular attention to the ones going to the
control pressure regulator and the distributer. Have a friend help you
and verify your work. Something you did you may keep overlooking,
soemone else may notice it. Don't touch the sensor plate, it was OK
before you worked on the car so it should be alright.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean6584"
<carburateur100gaz_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Hi i'm new in here so ill present myself : im from canada, quebec 
> and just bought a delorean 1981 3months ago...but now i have big 
> problem and really need help !!! here it is : its winter now so i 
> put the delorean in the garage and started tune up it a bit...the 
> problem began when i changed the distributor/plugs wires....i 
> removed the air/fuel unit and change them....the car never start 
> good since then...i make many test to find the problem but summer is 
> coming and begins to get rid off that engine bay and unburned gas 
> all that stuff... so, i removed the air/fuel mixture unit to be sure 
> that the big vacuum hose from the idle speed regulator was correctly 
> plugged, it was, i réinstall all the stuff, check all other vacuum 





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:57:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Jacking a DMC

If a Delorean was easy or desireable to steal then it would be
reflected in the insurance rates. I don't think it is a real problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> I don't think any of the methods mentioned really increases the
> probability of someone trying to get into the Delorean.  
> 
> If someone really wants to get in, they would break the tollbooth window
> with a $3 glass punch (or a brick) long before they take off the
driver's
> side wheel.  On another note, the inertia switch might be able to be
> popped through the speedo access hole.  
> 
> Jim
> 1537
> 
> On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:06:14 EST BondAtomic_at_dml_a... writes:
> > Well I'm glad I know how to jack a DMC now...
> > 
> > "I heard a clever way of unlocking the doors a few weeks/months 
> > ago... The
> > message (which evades me now) says that hitting the fibreglass just 
> > in
> > front of the inertia switch (to the rear of the driver's wheel) can 
> > make
> > the inertia switch trip.  The switch cuts the ground to the fuel 
> > pump,
> > but also disengages the door locks as a sort of "safety feature"."
> > 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 00:40:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Door Torsion Bar Torque Value

This is more like one of those "angle torque" things. I typically 
turn the bar 90 degrees from no-tension (with the door propped OPEN), 
and hit it right most of the time, sometimes one spline off. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Has anyone ever recorded the torque value of the door torsion bar 
while
> adjusting it?
>  
> It seems to me that having that value would make it much easier to 
hit the
> correct notch when adjusting the torsion bar.
>  
> Scott Mueller





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 20:44:21 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: freeze 12

List,

This spring I plan on overhauling my A/C system before Pigeon Forge.  I had 
the leaks fixed in 2001 and the system was vacuumed for about 2 hours, and it 
held vaccum for 30 min w/o any noticable drop.  the system was then filled with 
R134A and new proper oil.  Last fall right before storage time the A/C had 
begun to get weak again and now I am thinking i will just rebuild most of it.  I 
plan on replacing the compressor, accumulator, and all the switches and 
O-rings i can get to.  I'd rather not go to the evaporator if i can help it.  I 
have also heard about Freeze 12, a drop in replacement for R-12.  I think the 
system will run better on this stuff than R134A.  

Before i start, i had flourescent dye installed in 2001 with the oil so i 
will get a leak check done, in case i need to replace the main hoses.  there is a 
hydraulic place in town where i can get new main hoses custom made and 
crimped with removable fittings for about $200.  

Does this sound like a good way to approach this?  any tips from anyone who 
has been in this position before?  If it goes out again after a couple years, 
then i will have to replace all the lines, evaporator, and condensor, but i 
would rather try to get it done for less if possible right now.

as a side note, i have reached a milestone in my DeLorean ownership.  Today i 
made my final payment on my DeLorean's loan.  To me, this is quite an 
accomplishment - i bought my car when i was 18 and have been making payments since 
Nov. 2000.  Now i can rightly call my car 'my own'.  It feels good to know that 
i have made it, but also i recognize how lucky I am that i didn't fall onto 
difficult financial times and never had to face the decision to sell the car in 
order to pay other bills.  I should have the title around this time next week!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 01:18:14 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

Did you check for a loose belt?

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Drops just around 8 volts, yes that low _at_dml_ IDLE!
> With A/C and lights and radio on, it was fine six months ago when 
it was running before.  Then radio shuts off and of course comes 
back on after I give it gas.
> Aftermaket AC Delco ALT., (maybe a year and a half old) I believe 
110 output but I have to check.  
> What could be the cause just started the other day and have not 
had a chance to diagnosis?
>   
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 23:17:56 EST
From: FREDRAVAS_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Starts after sitting overnight

its sitting inside the frame,in a teeny hole, it took me a while to get it 
out, dont let the gas hit you in the face. after i replaced it never have 
problem anymore, its nice to use it again going to mall and shop knowing it will 
start right up and avoid embarrasment again in front of onlookers.
bet you can use this encouragement, good luck
6084


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 03:36:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: New Product

I just tried a new (to me) product. I haven't yet tried it on a
Delorean but it should work on them too. It is a Clay Grooming System.
Basically it is a clay bar and some spray lubricant. It is ONLY for
PAINTED surfaces so on a Delorean it is only for the facias. If you
follow the directions it really works. It makes a painted surface
smoother than new and removes all the invisible embedded dirt. I was
really surprised how well it worked on a 15 year old car that I am
detailing. It can't fix scratches and dings but it made the paint feel
and look like NEW. It was also very easy and quick. You can get this
at Griot's Garage and Eastwood  and probably any large auto store. The
one I used was made by Cargroom and they call the product Clay Groom
Pn 43000. No, I don't get anything for plugging this. I only mention
it because it beats compounding to smooth out a paint job and doesn't
seem to remove any so you can use this multiple times on the same car
without worrying about going through the paint.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 01:19:19 -0500 EST
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: freeze 12

> as a side note, i have reached a milestone in my DeLorean ownership.  
> Today i 
> made my final payment on my DeLorean's loan. 

congratulations!!!! I am down to my last 2 payments.... on in Feb and 
one in Mar :-)

regards,

Michael
vin 6067





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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:40:01 -0000
From: "giesel" <marcus_at_dml_forsberg.se>
Subject: Re: Changing Coil

Thanks, John!

I will call Bosch and ask  for a "more standard" Bosch coil. The 
old one is still working but it feels really good to change it all...
They problably know witch one it is for the Volvo B28, it really 
should be the same. Dont you think?

Thanks again, /Marcus





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:39:39 EST
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

I put some fuel into the air flow meter plate and the car started up for a 
few seconds and then died. I pulled an injector and plugged the hole that it 
came from and began to adjust the 02 screw. I adjusted clockwise a turn at a 
time, and each time I got no fuel out of the injector. I went a total of 5 turns 
before I stopped. I'm getting fuel to the distributor (a ton) and through the 
could start valve, but nothing to the injectors. The only thing I didn't 
replace on the fuel system was the accumulator. I didn't think there was anything 
wrong with it, could I be wrong?

John 5326 & 1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:22:43 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Re: New Product

I had it used on my Corvette when it was detailed last November.  It really
made the paint look great and it still does today.

Roland Smith
6667
Oakland, California
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 7:36 PM
Subject: [DML] New Product


> I just tried a new (to me) product. I haven't yet tried it on a
> Delorean but it should work on them too. It is a Clay Grooming System.
> Basically it is a clay bar and some spray lubricant. It is ONLY for
> PAINTED surfaces so on a Delorean it is only for the facias. If you
> follow the directions it really works. It makes a painted surface
> smoother than new and removes all the invisible embedded dirt. I was
> really surprised how well it worked on a 15 year old car that I am
> detailing. It can't fix scratches and dings but it made the paint feel
> and look like NEW. It was also very easy and quick. You can get this
> at Griot's Garage and Eastwood  and probably any large auto store. The
> one I used was made by Cargroom and they call the product Clay Groom
> Pn 43000. No, I don't get anything for plugging this. I only mention
> it because it beats compounding to smooth out a paint job and doesn't
> seem to remove any so you can use this multiple times on the same car
> without worrying about going through the paint.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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