From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1868
Date: Thursday, February 12, 2004 7:56 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Side Windows
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>

2. RE: Re: Hi !! starting problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: freeze 12
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Any Oklahoma Delorean owners here?
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

7. Re: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

8. Continuing: won't start (Testing David T's theory)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. RE: Battery is going dead...
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

10. Re: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Re: Side Windows
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

12. Re: Hi !! starting problems
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

13. Re: freeze 12
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Spark plug broken
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. RE: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

16. Renting Contract
From: "carin_catalano" <carin_catalano_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Any Oklahoma Delorean owners here?
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>

19. RE: Re: Hi !! starting problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: spark plug update
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

21. Testing Fuel Pump; Out of vehicle
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. DeLorean news search
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

23. RE: Shock Kit
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

24. Re: Side Windows
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

25. Re: spark plug update
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:13:18 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
Subject: Side Windows

Anyone ever driven with the side windows removed?  Structural issues?

--Ray




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:10:06 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hi !! starting problems

When you un-did the micro switch and made sure the throttle body was closed,
that's like not letting you breath and forcing food down your mouth. Your
chocking or cutting off your oxygen/air. Now you will have to re adjust
that.  You need to read the technical manual to understand how the system
works or your going to have it so far out of adjustment it will take longer
to redo it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: delorean6584 [mailto:carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 1:22 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Hi !! starting problems


hi, i check back all thoses vacuum hoses...they are all a the right
places, but i just removed the air/fuel mixture unit so i unplugged
only on vacuum hose in the front (under the elbow) and the big tube
from the idle speed regulator

LASTEST TEST :

back from work today i did that : loose the 2 srews for microswith
and throttle plates...i completly closed the throttle plates and
just screw the other to activate the microswitch, start the car, it
start the first time, idle at 2000 for 3-4 secs and decrease to
death, do that 3-4 times, after i deplugged the microswith to
eliminate the idle regulator, screw a bit the throttle plates to be
opened a bit, the car was a little more difficult to start but run
fine at 1000rpm...

question : is a prv6 supposed to run without dieing at 800rpm when
cold (about 0-10 celcius)

since last week i put down 3 truck batteries and the delorean
battery just to start that stainless thing...

any hints about what i see????




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:20:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: freeze 12

You do not have to replace all those parts. I would find the leak and
fix it (it is probably one of the long hoses usually the one on the
left, the discharge hose). Then I would replace the oil in the
compressor, clean the orifice tube, leak-test, vacuum and recharge.
Freeze-12 is probably OK, just make sure it does not contain Propane,
Butane, or Methane. Since you did put -134 in the system changing all
the "O" rings is probably a good idea (the origonal Buna "O" rings are
not compatable with -134).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> This spring I plan on overhauling my A/C system before Pigeon Forge.
 I had 
> the leaks fixed in 2001 and the system was vacuumed for about 2
hours, and it 
> held vaccum for 30 min w/o any noticable drop.  the system was then
filled with 
> R134A and new proper oil.  Last fall right before storage time the 




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 07:50:43 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update

1 x #102482	PIPE, COOLANT


I just got off the phone with delorean and they no
longer stock this item.  Has anyone had to replace
this pipe which comes off the small hose on the back
of the water pump to the heater core?

Where can I get one of these.    or.....

Had anyone used a hose that goes directly off the back
of the water pump to the coupler for the heater core
hose.

Is there a heat issue that prevents one from using the
hose.


**** spark plug update.

The final verdict is three plugs broke in the same
fashon and three came out.  They hve been soaking in a
loosening oil for several days.  The ones that came
out show no signs of chemical welding.  The ones that
broke had verry little pressure before they snapped. 
All plugs have some surface rust just below the nut
and I believe they fatigued at that point.

The three that came out whole, have clean threads
except for a slight bit of sitface rust just below the
nut.


thanx all,

ill keep you updated.


Jordan
11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 14:53:05 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Any Oklahoma Delorean owners here?

I have a poll asking if anyone is interested in an Oklahoma Delorean 
club, or if anyone in Oklahoma wants to meet up with the cars and 
talk, work, etc. please e-mail me or post a message. I am in OKC.

Adam Lee
VIN# 1913




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:30:10 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

John,

It sounds like your fuel distributor plunger is sticking or frozen. Remove
the distributor and clean the plunger with acetone and a soft rag.

Good Luck, 

Robert Grady
-----Original Message-----
From: advantics_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:advantics_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:40 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

I put some fuel into the air flow meter plate and the car started up for a 
few seconds and then died. I pulled an injector and plugged the hole that it

came from and began to adjust the 02 screw. I adjusted clockwise a turn at a

time, and each time I got no fuel out of the injector. I went a total of 5
turns 
before I stopped. I'm getting fuel to the distributor (a ton) and through
the 
could start valve, but nothing to the injectors. The only thing I didn't 
replace on the fuel system was the accumulator. I didn't think there was
anything 
wrong with it, could I be wrong?

John 5326 & 1383


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:41:30 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose

No, I'm not saving parts. It's just that when you take a car that is 
a rolling restoration, and use it as a daily driver, it's your only 
car, AND you're restoring it on a budget... Core charges can be a bit 
cost prohibitive for certain repairs. Such as my brake system. $30 
for a Master Cylinder, and $400 for my calipers is a bit too pricey 
for me to complete the project all at once. Even though I realize 
that I get the money back, I'd much rather not have to figure in such 
high core charges. Otherwise if my car wasn't a daily driver, I'd 
just send the parts in ahead of time before ordering, to avoid the 
charge all together.

Now the other problem is that I truly don't know if I will get my 
entire core fees back. The majority of problems that I've had to sort 
thru on my car have been caused from both neglect, and incompetent 
mechanics. And the use of substandard parts as well. I've had a 
clutch slave cylinder before that was welded, and couldn't get full 
value for it back. Understandable, since it was physicly damaged. But 
since vendors require true DeLorean parts upon return, and who knows 
what parts have been installed onto my car by the past owner, I've no 
clue as to how much of my core charges, if any, I will get back.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Why don't you just return the bad cores? Then the charge makes no 
> difference. Are you saving old bad parts for some reason? 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> > 
> > Discounts are great IMO, but easing up on those core charges sure 
> > would make things even easier!
> > 
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:14:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continuing: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

This is a replacement fuel distributor, isn't it? As I recall that's
why David theorized *POSSIBLE* incorrect calibration.

Try jumping the RPM relay to force the pump on (car doesn't even need
to be energized), then lower the air sensor plate by hand. The pulled
injector should start spraying at some point. If it doesn't spray you
could have a main line pressure problem. Let the pump spin like that
for several minutes, then try again. If it only sprays after spinning
for a while you've definitely got a main line pressure problem
(assuming fuel is reaching the distributor in the first place). The
injectors don't even crack until some PSI I can't remember (50 or so?)

The air sensor plate on an empty fuel distributor is very floppy with
no resistance. Fuel in the upper chambers will make it perceptively
harder to lower. Properly functioning CI also makes a weepy/whining
noise as the plate is lowered under pressure.

Potential causes for a main line pressure problem:
1) Bad fuel pump or constricted tank pickup
2) Too much fuel leaking past piston in the accumulator.
3) Bad or leaking regulator in the fuel distributor

To test the accumulator, disconnect its drain hose and jump the pump.
Much more than a few drops coming out is bad.

You may have reached the point where further diagnosis requires a
pressure gauge. The Bosch setup includes banjo fittings. John Hervey
sells individual fittings to use a generic gauge.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, advantics_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I put some fuel into the air flow meter plate and the car started up
for a 
> few seconds and then died. I pulled an injector and plugged the hole
that it 
> came from and began to adjust the 02 screw. I adjusted clockwise a
turn at a 
> time, and each time I got no fuel out of the injector. I went a
total of 5 turns 
> before I stopped. I'm getting fuel to the distributor (a ton) and
through the 
> could start valve, but nothing to the injectors. The only thing I
didn't 
> replace on the fuel system was the accumulator. I didn't think there
was anything 
> wrong with it, could I be wrong?
> 
> John 5326 & 1383
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 10:17:45 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Battery is going dead...

Hello Lee,

Congratulations on your purchase. Regardless of any contributing cause to
your starting problems all VIN's before #002547 will benefit tremendously in
the starting department if Service Bulletin ST-05-2/82 is performed to it. I
recommend using a link wire using factory style crimped connections (Part #
114017). This modification, if not previously performed, may solve your
problem. Let everyone know how you make out.  

Robert Grady 

-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Lee [mailto:delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 11:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Battery is going dead...

I am new to the mailing list. I purchased my 2nd DeLorean about a 
month ago. It is VIN #1913. When I got the car and it would have no 
problem starting up everytime. In the past week it seems like my 
battery is draining for some strange reason. I jump it and it fires 
right up. THe battery is good. I do not know about the alternator. 
When it runs for a while and I kill it, it will start right back up. 
Its the overnight sitting that is the problem. I would really like 
some advice if anyone can give me a "hey try this out" first before 
I have something done (i.e. have the alternator rebuilt) And one 
more question..why do DeLoreans "surge" in RPMs when it is cold? 
FYI. I sold my first Delorean about 4 years ago (6906). So I do not 
own two.


Thanks for your help,
Adam Lee
VIN #1913




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:47:17 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pickup Hose

On the other hand, you really shouldn't be driving around in 
a car that needs significant brake work...

--
Mike
> No, I'm not saving parts. It's just that when you take a car that is 
> a rolling restoration, and use it as a daily driver, it's your only 
> car, AND you're restoring it on a budget... Core charges can be a bit 
> cost prohibitive for certain repairs. Such as my brake system. $30 
> for a Master Cylinder, and $400 for my calipers is a bit too pricey 
> for me to complete the project all at once. Even though I realize 
> that I get the money back, I'd much rather not have to figure in such 
> high core charges. Otherwise if my car wasn't a daily driver, I'd 
> just send the parts in ahead of time before ordering, to avoid the 
> charge all together.
> 
>



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 13:55:54 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Side Windows

Despite what some people say none of the windows on the DeLorean provide any
structural integrity.  Just look how they are mounted in a thick rubberized
bedding.  If any force is applied that stuff would stretch till the glass
makes hard contact with a body part, if the force continues the glass would
just break.

I haven't had my driver side window in for almost 2 months now, it was nice
till I got caught in a light rain sat.  Due to the aerodynamics of the car
you don't get blasted with air as you would think.  With the side in and the
back out you get some hot air from the engine above 50mph, but with both out
a enough comes through the side to push everything out.


Andrei



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 9:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Side Windows


> Anyone ever driven with the side windows removed?  Structural issues?
>
> --Ray
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:39:30 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Hi !! starting problems

yes but in the manuals they dont say how to sovle this problem so i 
must try some things, so i tried so screw a bit the butterflies 
screw to let them open a bit and ajust the microswitch, the car runs 
and start very fine when warm or hot but when i try after 5-6 hours 
it wont start without playing with airflow plate




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:43:45 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: freeze 12

The first thing to do is to find out why your Air Conditioning system 
has lost it's cooling capacity. It could be a clogged Orifice Tube, a 
bad Accumulator, or even a Refrigerant leak from a connection, or 
even thru the hoses themselves.

I don't know if $200 is a good price to punch 3 hoses that are 
reusing your couplings from the old hoses (I too plan on doing this 
in a couple of months), but I can tell you that 3 hoses for that 
price is certainly more economical than 1 for $130 for a 20 year old 
one!

Make sure that when you have these new hoses punched for your car 
that you use Barrier Hose. Barrier Hose is designed to not only take 
high pressures, but it comes with a Neoprene lining to keep R-134a, 
and all other non CFC Refrigerants from seeping out thru the hoses 
over time. Which make no mistake, they will.

As for Freeze 12, or any other substitutes, your best bet in making a 
choice is to reference the EPA's data.

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/macssubs.html

Freeze 12 contains no CFC's, and that's because it substitutes HCFC's 
instead! So if you like R-134a, I'd probably just suggest sticking 
with that, since Freeze 12 is already 80% R-134a anyways (assuming 
that enviornmental concerns are what have motivated you). What the 
actual perfomance gains with Freeze 12 vs R-134a are, I've no idea, 
as I've never seen any claims that it cools any better, or improves 
component life. But R-134a appears to be much cheaper from what I've 
seen $9 for one can of Freeze 12, vs $19.99 for 3 cans of R-134a.

If you need additional cooling capacity with a replacement 
refrigerant in your car, you may also wish to consider the use of a 
Variable Orifice Valve that can increase cooling capacity at idle.

http://www.acsource.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=273&1=274&2=-1

Myself, I am going to be performing a complete A/C rebuild this 
spring, and will be installing a VOV. However, I am seriously 
considering a Hydrocarbon refrigerant substitute due to my extreme 
climate.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 11:01:05 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Spark plug broken


Hello all,

Added two more pictures of the spark plug autopsy,
Looks like water got in on top and rusted the joint
from the inside causing it to snap.  Doesnt appear to
have welded itself to the heads on any so far.  Even
the plugs that made it out exhibit this to a small
degree


http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/spark_plug_nightmare.html

Thanx to all, ill let you know how it goes

jordan 11613 "semi plugless"

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:29:38 -0800
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update

If you go to www.delorean-parts.com and 
enter 102482 into the "Store Keyword Search", 
it looks like they have one used one!

Gary Hull

XyNexT.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:51 AM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update

1 x #102482	PIPE, COOLANT


I just got off the phone with delorean and they no
longer stock this item.  Has anyone had to replace
this pipe which comes off the small hose on the back
of the water pump to the heater core?

Where can I get one of these.    or.....

Had anyone used a hose that goes directly off the back
of the water pump to the coupler for the heater core
hose.

Is there a heat issue that prevents one from using the
hose.


**** spark plug update.

[Moderator snip]



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:22:51 -0000
From: "carin_catalano" <carin_catalano_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Renting Contract


I asked this question quite awhile ago 
(http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/17482) and 
didn't get any response, so I thought I'd try again! :)

The opportunity to showcase my father's DeLorean has once again risen.


I was reading about renting out a DeLorean in an article by James
Espey. I've been trying to get my father to get his car out of
storage and if he can make a few bucks with it that might be all it
takes!

I sent an email off to James Espey to get a copy of his contract that
he mentions in that article, but I've not heard back from him. I also
searched the archives and didn't find it. Can anyone else supply me
with a copy of that contract or a web page link.


Thanks!

Carin Catalano








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:32:05 -0000
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

John.

Many of my weird and not so wonderful electrical problems were down 
to the common ground point behind the middle panel. My problem was 
more severe in that often there did not seem to be enough electrical 
oomph to drive more than one circuit at a time, ie I could have the 
lights on but not indicate at the same time, often the car had to be 
deliberatley rev'd just to get the indicators to work. Attempting 
hand signals in a DeLorean is interesting....

The centre control panel switches AND the voltmeter on my early car 
all take the ground point from behind the hazard light switch. 
My 'electrical' section in the files area has a photo. If your radio 
can be removed easily you can get to the area from there. You could 
then tighten the bolt, which in my case held no less than 9 grounding 
wires. It is also possible for test purposese to run a temporary 
ground cable using a croc-clip and run it directly to the battery 
post.

With the temporary ground connected/disconnected I could create my 
problems at will, the voltmeter voltage shown on the gauge altered 
from 6-8V disconnected to a 'true' 12-13.5V with the cable attached.

John Chapelhow
'Boeing' 0737



John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> wrote:
Drops just around 8 volts, yes that low _at_dml_ IDLE!
With A/C and lights and radio on, it was fine six months ago when it 
was running before.  Then radio shuts off and of course comes back on 
after I give it gas.
Aftermaket AC Delco ALT., (maybe a year and a half old) I believe 110 
output but I have to check.  
What could be the cause just started the other day and have not had a 
chance to diagnosis?





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:40:51 -0600
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
Subject: Re: Any Oklahoma Delorean owners here?

Adam:
respond off list. I am in oklahoma city, east side.
jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com
Jerry
Vin# 4890

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 8:53 AM
Subject: [DML] Any Oklahoma Delorean owners here?


> I have a poll asking if anyone is interested in an Oklahoma Delorean
> club, or if anyone in Oklahoma wants to meet up with the cars and
> talk, work, etc. please e-mail me or post a message. I am in OKC.
>
> Adam Lee
> VIN# 1913
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 17:15:15 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Hi !! starting problems

Once you get the switch and idle back to the correct position, then you may
have a hot start problem which is completely different.That would be
accumulator or my hot start 2 in the fuel distributor. The 5 to 6 hours
gives the fuel pressure time to bleed off. So you may have several things
bleeding down. Cold stat valve, Injectors, Primary pressure valve.
Most severe cases of hot start are 5 min after you shut it down.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: delorean6584 [mailto:carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 1:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Hi !! starting problems


yes but in the manuals they dont say how to sovle this problem so i
must try some things, so i tried so screw a bit the butterflies
screw to let them open a bit and ajust the microswitch, the car runs
and start very fine when warm or hot but when i try after 5-6 hours
it wont start without playing with airflow plate




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:09:28 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: spark plug update

Did you ever tell us the brand of plugs that broke. I want to make sure I
don't buy any.

> **** spark plug update.
>
> The final verdict is three plugs broke in the same
> fashon and three came out.  They hve been soaking in a
> loosening oil for several days.  The ones that came
> out show no signs of chemical welding.  The ones that
> broke had verry little pressure before they snapped.
> All plugs have some surface rust just below the nut
> and I believe they fatigued at that point.




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 00:11:15 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Testing Fuel Pump; Out of vehicle

I removed the fuel pump and boot from my D and the boot is completely 
erroded, and I'll have to replace it. But since my fuel pump is out 
already how would I go about testing it to make sure it works 
properly?


Jason




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:24:30 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: DeLorean news search

Just as an FYI - google.com now has a "news" section that allows you to
get daily e-mail on new postings based on the keywords you have entered
. . . naturally I now have one for "delorean". 

This like will allow you to create a news alert:
http://www.google.com/newsalerts?q=delorean&hl=en

Here is what I got today:

DeLorean debacle goes on: Ulster Unionist
Wednesday, February 11 by Ian Parsley 
 
More news from Finance 
Mr Billy Bell, Lagan Valley MLA and former Chairman of the Northern
Ireland Assembly’s Public Accounts Committee, today welcomed the Audit
Office Report into the Recovery of Public Funds from the DeLorean
Project.

Mr Bell said"

“This report is a detailed analysis of the department’s efforts to
recover public money following the failure of the DeLorean Motor Company
in 1982. Between 1978 and 1982, almost £80m had been pumped into the
company by the taxpayer. And yet, by January 2003, following 20 years of
protracted recovery, the government has managed to get back only £20m
(net) of its initial outlay. Put in every day terms, this equates to
every man, woman and child in NI contributing approximately £45 to
perhaps the most notorious failure ever seen here." 

Cheers,

Michael  




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:51:14 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Shock Kit

John,
The thought of solving the rear lower shock mount and coil spring collar problem in the same way you chose, has crossed my mind. But I was concerned with the stress placed on the lower shock bolt as the trailing arm moves up and down through its travel. The trailing arm pivots about the trailing arm bolt, and the travel at the lower shock bolt is an arc, not a straight line. The lower shock bolt does not remain at a constant 90 degree angle to the shock body, so in the original design the twisting motion encountered is absorbed by the lower shocks rubber grommet. Do your platforms lower bolt holes ride on the steel collar that's inside the shocks rubber grommet, or does it ride right on the lower shock bolt? Either way there is no way to escape the twisting moment of the basic design. What is really needed is a spherical mount bearing or rod end.

Also, do your rear shocks allow full compression without the shocks dust cover contacting the lower coil spring seat? Most off the shelf shocks I've seen like the Monroes for instance require that the dust cover be cut back to allow the required clearance.

Glad to see you keep bringing new products to our hobby.
Also thanks for the starter....great service.
Jim
6147


"John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:

>Group, 
>I have added a new shock kit with a rear platform that will allow 
>you to use any rear shock up to 1 7/8" in diameter. These shocks are 
>balanced for a smoother ride and I won't even say how much better 
>over the original. This is not a lowering kit.
>John Hervey
>   http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/frame-body.html
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 17:32:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Side Windows

I think the comments in the past have been about door flex issues, not how
the windows will effect the outcome of a DeLorean that gets rolled. When
your doors are open, if you grab both ends and twist a bit, do you feel
any more give? I'd love to see some pics of you cruising with the windows
out!

-Christian

On Wed, 11 Feb 2004, Andrei Cular wrote:

> Despite what some people say none of the windows on the DeLorean provide any
> structural integrity.  Just look how they are mounted in a thick rubberized
> bedding.  If any force is applied that stuff would stretch till the glass
> makes hard contact with a body part, if the force continues the glass would
> just break.
>
> I haven't had my driver side window in for almost 2 months now, it was nice
> till I got caught in a light rain sat.  Due to the aerodynamics of the car
> you don't get blasted with air as you would think.  With the side in and the
> back out you get some hot air from the engine above 50mph, but with both out
> a enough comes through the side to push everything out.
>
>
> Andrei
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 9:13 AM
> Subject: [DML] Side Windows
>
>
> > Anyone ever driven with the side windows removed?  Structural issues?
> >
> > --Ray
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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>
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:16:10 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: spark plug update

The spark plug brand is not the issue because any plug can break the 
way his plugs broke off in his heads. Rust will damage any type of 
spark plug and make it break.

Same thing like that Fram oil filter post, if all Fram filters fell 
apart and broke down in a engine do you think Fram would of went 
Bankrupt selling Junk by now?

Mark


On Wednesday, February 11, 2004, at 06:09 PM, Dave Sontos wrote:

> Did you ever tell us the brand of plugs that broke. I want to make 
> sure I
> don't buy any.
>
>> **** spark plug update.
>>
>> The final verdict is three plugs broke in the same
>> fashon and three came out.  They hve been soaking in a
>> loosening oil for several days.  The ones that came
>> out show no signs of chemical welding.  The ones that
>> broke had verry little pressure before they snapped.
>> All plugs have some surface rust just below the nut
>> and I believe they fatigued at that point.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime




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