From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1872
Date: Friday, February 13, 2004 11:47 AM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: spark plug update
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

3. RE: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. Re: "Frame Extension" Specifications
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

5. Re: popping sound inside body
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

6. Re: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 06:31:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Putting a stainless stud in an aluminum head will
likley make it so you will never again remove the
stud.


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather
> uncommon in carbon
> steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those
> same holes will
> tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost
> identical to 1mm
> pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread
> in as easily as a
> bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1
> and 4 hidden behind
> the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with
> stainless steel would
> make future removal problem free. Don't forget the
> studs that hold the
> manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also
> common in stainless).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939


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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:34:08 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: spark plug update

Hello everyone, 

I wish to clarify David's remarks. When Bosch Platinum's came out in the
mid-eighty's (I think? I must be getting old!) they were touted as the next
great thing so naturally I tried them as a lower cost alternative to the
tried and true "SILBERS" (check the spelling on the box!). What I found
unfortunately was that almost a third of our subsequent tune-ups would
return within a few hundred miles with an engine miss. We stopped using
these plugs within a few months. If you want a cheaper plug than silvers the
Bosch coppers fill the bill nicely. I haven't tried the Plus Fours yet but
have a set waiting to throw in my green car. I'm just not that comfortable
trying them based on my past experience. BTW I also don't recommend Bosch
ignition wire sets as my "Daily driver" owners never seemed to get more than
a year out of them. Stick with Bougicord wires, Bosch "Silber" or "Super"
coppers, along with a Bosch cap and rotor and you'll have a combination that
has ALMOST NEVER let us down over many hundreds of DeLorean tune-ups (Never
say never:).

Sincerely,

Robert Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:59 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] spark plug update

I guess any plug can rust. I am starting to lose confidence in Bosch
though. Rob Grady will not recomend the Bosch Platinum plugs anymore.
He said he has seen where they "blow-by" or leak between the procelin
 and the steel shell. Maybe the standard Bosch are OK, just don't let
water get into the wells and rot the plugs? The steel shell is
supposed to be plated to prevent corrosion, maybe it just is not
enough if water lays in the well for a long time. This is just another
reason to change some parts once in a while or every 20 years if you
use the car or not. No car likes to sit and not be used especailly
outdoors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> the plugs are bosch that come with the car
> 
> Dave Sontos <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:Did you ever tell us the brand of
plugs that broke. I want to make sure I
> don't buy any.
> 
> > **** spark plug update.
> >
> > The final verdict is three plugs broke in the same
> > fashon and three came out. They hve been soaking in a
> > loosening oil for several days. The ones that came
> > out show no signs of chemical welding. The ones that
> > broke had verry little pressure before they snapped.
> > All plugs have some surface rust just below the nut
> > and I believe they fatigued at that point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:54:52 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Hi Bill,

Not anymore! If you want a set of HARDENED STAINLESS 7MM exhaust studs I
have a box of them on my office floor awaiting further inspection. These
beauties are custom made for us and are stronger than the stock studs yet
can still be drilled out should one ever fail. Cost will be similar to OEM's
because we made a lot of them. I am now researching the best nut and washer
combination to use with them. Any comments from the "peanut gallery":).
Qualified suggestions would be most appreciated because I've received
conflicting advice over the years about stainless on stainless, brass on
stainless, steel on stainless etc.

Robert Grady


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 1:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather uncommon in carbon
steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those same holes will
tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost identical to 1mm
pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread in as easily as a
bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1 and 4 hidden behind
the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with stainless steel would
make future removal problem free. Don't forget the studs that hold the
manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also common in stainless).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Just a note:
> One problem with these things is that the studs holding the exhaust
manifold 
> are pretty small and often rust.  My car was purchased and started
much like 
> yours, with a roaring exhaust leak.
> Anyway, the bottom line was that I had to take my heads off to get the 
> exhaust manifold studs out.  This is just a suggestion.  It is not a
bad 
> idea to replace the old studs with larger sturdier studs.  I realize
some 
> people won't like that idea, but, it might make them easier to get
off next 
> time.  That's what I did.
> Sincereley,
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 
> 
[Moderator snip]



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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:13:25 -0600
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: "Frame Extension" Specifications

On Thursday 12 February 2004 11:55 pm, TalksToGod wrote:
> Perhaps someone can help me here, I am trying to locate all the
> specifications on the front end frame extension.

I believe all of this info is contained in the service manual or technical 
bulletins.

wt
-- 
Warren Turkal
President, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 10:27:48 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body


This happened to me as well.  It turned out to be an oil filter rolling around in the trunk.  

-Hank #1619

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Me" <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 5:53 AM
Subject: [DML] popping sound inside body


> 
> I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars body when I turn corners real sharp anybody got any clue what it is? It is not coming from the suspension so dont waste your time and everyone elses suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam the wheel around it really gets loud.The frame is not rust damaged so its anyone guess.
> 
> 



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 15:35:05 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update

No, that was DMCL, DMC was in New York! :p

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Oh, I must have missed something... I thought DMC (DeLorean Motor 
Company) 
> was a car production facility that was located in Northern Ireland 
that went 
> out of business in 1982. Silly me... ;)
> 
> ---Dan




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