From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1873
Date: Saturday, February 14, 2004 9:17 AM

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Side Windows
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

2. RE: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

3. Re: freeze 12
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

4. Re: Stainless Studs In Aluminum
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: popping sound inside body
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

6. Re: Re: RE: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. Re: popping sound inside body
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: popping sound inside body
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: popping sound inside body
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: spark plug update
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>

14. Re: Side Windows
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

15. Re: Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

16. Re: popping sound inside body
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com

17. Fiberglass to Stainless Glue
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

18. Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

19. Re: Side Windows
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

20. RE: Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: popping sound inside body
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

23. Re: popping sound inside body
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 09:57:28 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Side Windows

Bob, since you've removed/re-engineered the side window glass you might be able to
answer this, but I'll put the question out to all:

Is it a practical modification to have removable side glass?

Right now, they're glued in, but couldn't a rubber seal be installed with some sort of
latching attachment inside?  The windows could be removed and stowed for nice weather,
like T-tops, but quickly replaced if necessary.

The obvious problem is that the doors are up in the air when opened, so that the
remove/install procedure would need to be done from inside the car with the doors
closed.  Tricky.


Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695



Bob Brandys wrote:

> As most of you know, I installed full size power windows in my Delorean
> doors.  This, of course, eliminated the urethane glued in glass window.
>
> Did the change the structural integrity of the door?
>
> We did test this question.  The stock door with the glued in window does
> have a little less flexibility in proportion to the force applied that
> the doors with the full size windows.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:10:34 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Hi Mark,

A little bit of copper anti-seize compound should solve that issue. Now I'd
better get back to work before my customers think I've been swallowed by the
DML :). This can be addicting. See you guys later!

Robert Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 9:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Putting a stainless stud in an aluminum head will
likley make it so you will never again remove the
stud.


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather
> uncommon in carbon
> steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those
> same holes will
> tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost
> identical to 1mm
> pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread
> in as easily as a
> bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1
> and 4 hidden behind
> the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with
> stainless steel would
> make future removal problem free. Don't forget the
> studs that hold the
> manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also
> common in stainless).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 10:21:24 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: freeze 12

There are a number of R-12 replacements.  The one I thought promising was R-406A
(http://www.autofrost.com).  This site has links to good info on the use of Freon
alternatives.  Or, you can just check what I said 3 years ago:

  http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/2001%20files/%5BDML%5D%20Digest%20Number%20586.html

Geez, have I been posting for that long?

In the case of Autofrost, they claim that a blend allows for higher efficiency, but
since a blend will not leak all of it's different molecules at the same rate it cannot
be "topped off".  And I agree that most shops will not touch Freon-alternative equipped
cars, but most shops won't touch a DeLorean, anyway.  :-)



Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN #4695



DMCVIN6683 wrote:

> Freeze 12 i believe is petroleum based if i remember correctly.
>
> Mark
>
> On Thursday, February 12, 2004, at 06:10 PM, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 2/12/04 7:58:50 AM Central Standard Time,
> > darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net writes:
> > I work at an auto parts store and know that freeze 12 is junk.  it is
> > a mix
> > of r12 by-products and r134a along with a few other chemicals.  it
> > works ok
> > but no one will want to service it if they know it's in there.  it has
> > the
> > habit of wearing seals and compressor bearings due to it's
> > unpredictable
> > chemical makeup.
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 17:02:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Studs In Aluminum

The idea is to remove stainless nuts from the stainless studs. Studs
themselves stay put.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Putting a stainless stud in an aluminum head will
> likley make it so you will never again remove the
> stud.
> 
> 
> --- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather
> > uncommon in carbon
> > steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those
> > same holes will
> > tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost
> > identical to 1mm
> > pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread
> > in as easily as a
> > bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1
> > and 4 hidden behind
> > the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with
> > stainless steel would
> > make future removal problem free. Don't forget the
> > studs that hold the
> > manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also
> > common in stainless).
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:22:50 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

My car has a wore out trailing arm bushing and missing shims and large 
washer on the passenger side that makes the exact same noise you are 
hearing.

Mark



On Friday, February 13, 2004, at 04:53 AM, Me wrote:

>
> I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars body when I turn 
> corners real sharp anybody got any clue what it is? It is not coming 
> from the suspension so dont waste your time and everyone elses 
> suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam the wheel around it 
> really gets loud.The frame is not rust damaged so its anyone guess.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:24:55 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: RE: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update

Delorean Motor Company is now located in Texas U.S.A. see 
www.delorean.com


Mark


On Friday, February 13, 2004, at 06:40 AM, Dan RC30 wrote:

> Oh, I must have missed something... I thought DMC (DeLorean Motor 
> Company)
> was a car production facility that was located in Northern Ireland 
> that went
> out of business in 1982. Silly me... ;)
>
> ---Dan
>
> PS- Since I'm receiving an english lesson, "THEY" would presume that
> whichever "DeLorean" was selling parts, presumably John Z. since he is 
> the
> most famous, had an employee or employees helping him sell parts (which
> would have to be assumed). I was questioning that John Z. was the 
> "owner" of
> this new parts distribution business... (BTW, it's "sentence", not
> "sentance", and there's only one "m" in "tomorrow" :-P)
>
>
>
>
>
>> Message: 10
>>    Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:43:47 -0800 (PST)
>>    From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>> Subject: Re: RE: Coolant pipe 192482 and spark plug update
>>
>> All: Ill be flying back to the states later and will be in New York
>> tommorrow.
>>
>> Oh and hi Dan,
>>
>>
>> The use of THEY in the sentance would indicate a plural subject in 
>> this
>> instance.  This could in fact mean that the whole Delorean family is
>> selling coolant pipe number 192482.
>> However, it could also mean that im talking about DELOREAN motor 
>> company in
>> Houston.  Ill leave
> you to decide.
>>
>> jordan
>> 11613
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan RC30 <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>> John Z. is selling parts now?
>>
>> ---Dan
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Check out the great features of the new MSN 9 Dial-up, with the MSN 
> Dial-up
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>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 17:52:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

Check all the "body bolts" holding the fiberglass body onto the frame.
It can also be the jack and lug wrench kit sliding around in the
little compartment in front.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars body when I turn
corners real sharp anybody got any clue what it is? It is not coming
from the suspension so dont waste your time and everyone elses
suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam the wheel around it
really gets loud.The frame is not rust damaged so its anyone guess.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 17:57:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

Could also be loose items in the jack storage area.

Look inside driver's pontoon extension (vapor canister access plate)
to see if anything's loose in there. The cheap metal strap that holds
the bottom of the power antenna is notorious to rust and break in two.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Henry" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> This happened to me as well.  It turned out to be an oil filter
rolling around in the trunk.  
> 
> -Hank #1619
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Me" <fleetofworlds_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 5:53 AM
> Subject: [DML] popping sound inside body
> 
> 
> > 
> > I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars body when I
turn corners real sharp anybody got any clue what it is? It is not
coming from the suspension so dont waste your time and everyone elses
suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam the wheel around it
really gets loud.The frame is not rust damaged so its anyone guess.
> > 
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 17:50:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts

Fastenal has a small supply of stainless 7mm nuts still available
(can't remember if they're 18/8 or 316). Stainless bolts are now all
gone, as is threaded rod (I had considered making my own 7mm studs).

Carbon nuts should also be OK with your new studs. I have a stainless
nut on my stock distributor hold down no problem.

The biggest problem with stainless is "galling" -- essentially welding
the threads together during installation. Happens when the protective
outer coating (self generated) wears off, exposing uncoated material
to itself. That's why stainless shouldn't be speed driven.

What is your price on these new studs?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> 
> Not anymore! If you want a set of HARDENED STAINLESS 7MM exhaust studs I
> have a box of them on my office floor awaiting further inspection. These
> beauties are custom made for us and are stronger than the stock
studs yet
> can still be drilled out should one ever fail. Cost will be similar
to OEM's
> because we made a lot of them. I am now researching the best nut and
washer
> combination to use with them. Any comments from the "peanut gallery":).
> Qualified suggestions would be most appreciated because I've received
> conflicting advice over the years about stainless on stainless, brass on
> stainless, steel on stainless etc.
> 
> Robert Grady
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...] 
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 1:06 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
> 
> Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather uncommon in carbon
> steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those same holes will
> tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost identical to 1mm
> pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread in as easily as a
> bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1 and 4 hidden behind
> the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with stainless steel would
> make future removal problem free. Don't forget the studs that hold the
> manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also common in stainless).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Just a note:
> > One problem with these things is that the studs holding the exhaust
> manifold 
> > are pretty small and often rust.  My car was purchased and started
> much like 
> > yours, with a roaring exhaust leak.
> > Anyway, the bottom line was that I had to take my heads off to get
the 
> > exhaust manifold studs out.  This is just a suggestion.  It is not a
> bad 
> > idea to replace the old studs with larger sturdier studs.  I realize
> some 
> > people won't like that idea, but, it might make them easier to get
> off next 
> > time.  That's what I did.
> > Sincereley,
> > Dale Funk
> > 4984
> > 
> > 
> [Moderator snip]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 10:03:12 -0800 (PST)
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

--- Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars
> body when I turn corners real sharp anybody got any
> clue what it is? It is not coming from the
> suspension so dont waste your time and everyone
> elses suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam
> the wheel around it really gets loud.The frame is
> not rust damaged so its anyone guess.
> 
> HI, My car did that, and I thought it was the front
suspension, it turned out to be the front body to
frame bolts, in the trunk. Hope this Helps,  Casey
Barlow VIN 3270
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing
> online
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>      dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 13:02:39 EST
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures

What does everyone else have theirs set at?   It says max is 44, so I have my 
fronts at 30 PSI and my rears at 35 PSI.   I do have a hard ride, does anyone 
else suggest using different pressures?   I was told that using the orignal 
pressure specifications for the NCTs will cause the Pilots to wear abnormally 
since they are NOT the same tires as NCTs.

Any suggestions?
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 18:13:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

Typically it is not the fastener that fails, the gasket blows out. The
fastener (the stud, nut and washers and tapped hole) fail when you try
to remove them. In general if you use heat to prepare them for removal
you can "usually" get things apart without breaking anything but on
many you will rip the aluminum threads out of the head. The "best"
combination I see is carbon steel studs with double (thin) brass nuts.
This is pretty common in marine applications and can be disassembled
easily. I use "Never-Seize" whenever I reasssemble and on the ones I
have had to take apart with it things come apart easily without heat.
Another neat product that racers use is a locking ring on the nut
after you install. Eastwood now sells such a fastener, just not in our
size. This is good because the gaskets fail eventually because from
the extreme heat and the cycling the fasteners loosen over time. After
that happens the clamping force is reduced so the gasket cannot handle
the blow-by and fails. This lock prevents the fasteners from
loosening. Another possability is to wire the nuts like on aircraft so
they can't loosen but that can be hard in confined places. On many
other make cars they just don't have exhaust manifold gaskets but
eventually they leak too much so you have to put in aftermarket
gaskets. IMHO after 20 years it is good to take things apart once in
awhile. On mechanical things that are never disassembled it gets to
the point that you wind up breaking all the fasteners when you
eventually have to take it apart. As the fleet of Deloreans age we
will see more and more of this sort of thing. Another point to make is
the longer you drive with an exhaust leak the more trouble you will
have with the fasteners and you may have to have the exhaust manifold
"planed" or ground flat so it will make good contact with the cylinder
head. I am not so sure about S/S studs. If you should ever have to
drill one out it may be harder than an ordinary steel one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> 
> Not anymore! If you want a set of HARDENED STAINLESS 7MM exhaust studs I
> have a box of them on my office floor awaiting further inspection. These
> beauties are custom made for us and are stronger than the stock
studs yet
> can still be drilled out should one ever fail. Cost will be similar
to OEM's
> because we made a lot of them. I am now researching the best nut and
washer
> combination to use with them. Any comments from the "peanut gallery":).
> Qualified suggestions would be most appreciated because I've received
> conflicting advice over the years about stainless on stainless, brass on
> stainless, steel on stainless etc.
> 
> Robert Grady
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...] 
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 1:06 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs
> 
> Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather uncommon in carbon
> steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those same holes will
> tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost identical to 1mm
> pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread in as easily as a
> bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1 and 4 hidden behind
> the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with stainless steel would
> make future removal problem free. Don't forget the studs that hold the
> manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also common in stainless).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Just a note:
> > One problem with these things is that the studs holding the exhaust
> manifold 
> > are pretty small and often rust.  My car was purchased and started
> much like 
> > yours, with a roaring exhaust leak.
> > Anyway, the bottom line was that I had to take my heads off to get
the 
> > exhaust manifold studs out.  This is just a suggestion.  It is not a
> bad 
> > idea to replace the old studs with larger sturdier studs.  I realize
> some 
> > people won't like that idea, but, it might make them easier to get
> off next 
> > time.  That's what I did.
> > Sincereley,
> > Dale Funk
> > 4984
> > 
> > 
> [Moderator snip]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 20:46:27 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>
Subject: Re: spark plug update

Hi!

I have installed a set of new Bosch platinum plugs (single electrode) in my
car. The center electrode is very thin, almost like a pin and it doesn't
stick out over the ceramic insulator. I can't say a bad word about them.
After the instalation the car runs very smooth, never misses and the
response to the gas has improved. Additionally I think that the car has more
power and better accelleration. I've never tried the +4 so I can't say about
them but the ones with single platinum electrode are just great. Give 'em a
try Rob. I think you'll like them.

Take care everyone!

Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

> Hello everyone,
>
> I wish to clarify David's remarks. When Bosch Platinum's came out in the
> mid-eighty's (I think? I must be getting old!) they were touted as the
next
> great thing so naturally I tried them as a lower cost alternative to the
> tried and true "SILBERS" (check the spelling on the box!). What I found
> unfortunately was that almost a third of our subsequent tune-ups would
> return within a few hundred miles with an engine miss. We stopped using
> these plugs within a few months. If you want a cheaper plug than silvers
the
> Bosch coppers fill the bill nicely. I haven't tried the Plus Fours yet but
> have a set waiting to throw in my green car. I'm just not that comfortable
> trying them based on my past experience. BTW I also don't recommend Bosch
> ignition wire sets as my "Daily driver" owners never seemed to get more
than
> a year out of them. Stick with Bougicord wires, Bosch "Silber" or "Super"
> coppers, along with a Bosch cap and rotor and you'll have a combination
that
> has ALMOST NEVER let us down over many hundreds of DeLorean tune-ups
(Never
> say never:).
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Robert Grady




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 14:12:53 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Side Windows

Gus,

Your question about removable side windows is a concept that we looked 
at.  Something along the sliding mechanism on the proto type Delorean

THe whole window is fairly long and awkward.  It is glued on because 
there is no real edge to support it on the door.  If you were going to 
have a removable form, you would need to have at least a bottom U 
channel to support then window. You could then have a hinged U channel 
to chip on the on the top.

Years ago,(50s) some cars had hinged U channels (AKA Edsels and others) 
that would hold the top of the window in place.  THis was done to 
provide easier entry and exit to the vehicle.

The tough part is the curve sections. Curved U channel is very difficult 
to come by. I have to have mine custom machined and custom bent.

I would recommend getting the window made of Lexan to make it much 
easier to handle and not break if you drop it.

Anything can be done with enough money and time. !

BTW does anyone have the detail on the original sliding windows?  I have 
never been able to find it.


BOB




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 14:15:32 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts

You might want to try Metric Fasteners in Burr Ridge, IL.

They have a lot of stainless metric sizes.  Nuts and Bolts and will 
custom make if necessary.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 15:38:34 -0500
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

I've been hearing a similar popping when (a) I first start the car - one pop, and (b) when I turn the car around corners when under power - a couple - though not when the clutch is in.  It's weird.

Dean Thomas



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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:00:56 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Fiberglass to Stainless Glue

Does anybody Know, what Glue was used to exopy the Fiberglass Rib 
frame to the Stainless Steel part of the Hood,and is it available,and 
under what name,it is a greenish tranlucent type,and not a normal 
type of Glue,I think they also used it to join the two halves of the 
Black body together,as I need it for another project,if anybody knows 
where I can get this stuff,or a website,where I could find it,that 
would be much helpful.

Thanks
Claude
05520 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:22:40 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs

The po of my car ran then let the car with an exhaust leak on the 
drivers side. I am doing battle with the manifold now.  The last two 
studs over the engine mount did in fact break and were the cause of 
the leak. When I removed the manifold they were well rusted around, 
as well as between the two halves. Of course they broke just a 
little recessed of the face of the block.
Upon inspecting the face of the manifold the last port where the 
studs broke were not in line with the other two faces but recessed 
about 1/16". I suspect the extra tension on the manifold caused the 
studs to break. The face was also badly pitted. Needless to say I 
had the face of the manifold ground to bring the faces all in line 
and eliminate most of the pitting and hopefully the tension.
Stephen
Vin 3601

"Typically it is not the fastener that fails, the gasket blows 
out........ the longer you drive with an exhaust leak the more 
trouble you will have with the fasteners and you may have to have 
the exhaust manifold "planed" or ground flat so it will make good 
contact with the cylinder head."




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 21:36:24 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Side Windows




I once "skinned" a Delorean door,(it is NOT that hard to do,just need 
elbow grease)to see what kind of engineering the engineers did for 
the Delorean doors,by the way this was a door with major "skin" damage
anyways, I WAS amazed to see the amount of reinforcement,that was put 
into those doors,It is OVERKILL what they did in there,(by the way 
Rob at P.J. Grady,now has that skinned door,Rob don't chuck that door 
as it makes a good reference to see the inside engineering on these 
doors)Anyways from what I could see,you CAN easily drive with the 
doors open/without glass,and not worry about bending the doors,they 
did things right in there,unlike the Bricklin doors,that DID 
bend,after years of opening and closing the doors,DMC saw the 
problems with the Bricklin doors and MADE sure,that ALL proper 
reinforcements were engineered into the Delorean doors.
If you ever have the chance to see the "other side" of a Delorean 
door,you would appreciate the engineering that went on with the 
Delorean Motorcar.

Claude
05520




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> I think the comments in the past have been about door flex issues, 
not how
> the windows will effect the outcome of a DeLorean that gets rolled. 
When
> your doors are open, if you grab both ends and twist a bit, do you 
feel
> any more give? I'd love to see some pics of you cruising with the 
windows
> out!
> 
> -Christian
> 
> On Wed, 11 Feb 2004, Andrei Cular wrote:
> 
> > Despite what some people say none of the windows on the DeLorean 
provide any
> > structural integrity.  Just look how they are mounted in a thick 
rubberized
> > bedding.  If any force is applied that stuff would stretch till 
the glass
> > makes hard contact with a body part, if the force continues the 
glass would
> > just break.
> >
> > I haven't had my driver side window in for almost 2 months now, 
it was nice
> > till I got caught in a light rain sat.  Due to the aerodynamics 
of the car
> > you don't get blasted with air as you would think.  With the side 
in and the
> > back out you get some hot air from the engine above 50mph, but 
with both out
> > a enough comes through the side to push everything out.
> >
> >
> > Andrei
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_i...>
> > To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 9:13 AM
> > Subject: [DML] Side Windows
> >
> >
> > > Anyone ever driven with the side windows removed?  Structural 
issues?
> > >
> > > --Ray
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 19:08:29 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts

Bob & Group. I have lots of 7mm Bolts, Washer, Studs and more. If it's not
on the site just send me an email. I just got zinc plated for the intake if
your old ones are looking bad and new exhaust manifold studs w/ss nuts and
washers.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brandys [mailto:BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com]
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Stainless 7mm Nuts


You might want to try Metric Fasteners in Burr Ridge, IL.

They have a lot of stainless metric sizes.  Nuts and Bolts and will
custom make if necessary.







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 01:55:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures

I recently (and reluctantly) retired my NCT's. They only had 6,000
miles on them and NO cracks. They looked excellant to the eye inside
and outside. I put the Michelen Pilots on at Rob Grady's
recomendation. I was instantly thrilled with the improved ride and
performance. I suspect the NCT's hardened with age and the Pilots are
a superior and more modern technology. I am using 23 psi for the front
and 30 psi in the rear. It may not be optimum but it is a place to
start. I am monitoring the tread wear with a tread wear gauge so I
know I am getting even contact across the with of the tire tread. I
don't put enough mileage on my car to get a quick indication of how
things are wearing so this would be better tested by someone who is
using their "D" as a daily driver. You need to understand what the air
pressure does to the "footprint" of the tire so you can understand how
the pressure in the tire affects treadwear. There are many websites
you can go to for further info about tires and tire pressure. Don't
forget the spare. Reseal it so it can hold 60 psi for more than 3
days. Get a GOOD tire pressure gauge and a tread wear gauge.
Compensate for temperature and ALWAYS check the tires cold at least
once a month.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> What does everyone else have theirs set at?   It says max is 44, so
I have my 
> fronts at 30 PSI and my rears at 35 PSI.   I do have a hard ride,
does anyone 
> else suggest using different pressures?   I was told that using the
orignal 
> pressure specifications for the NCTs will cause the Pilots to wear
abnormally 
> since they are NOT the same tires as NCTs.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 19:55:48 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

Ahh.. it could be the rear axle shaft smacking instead of sliding in 
the hub carrier or what ever that piece is called, it needs to be 
lubricated. I know they call it an axle klunk and there is a webpage 
telling how to lubricate it but i cant find it maybe someone else has 
the web link?

Mark
6683



On Friday, February 13, 2004, at 02:38 PM, KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> I've been hearing a similar popping when (a) I first start the car - 
> one pop, and (b) when I turn the car around corners when under power - 
> a couple - though not when the clutch is in.  It's weird.
>
> Dean Thomas
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 03:13:49 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: popping sound inside body

It sounds like the body attachment bolts to the frame have worked 
themselves loose - they all do over time.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I hear this popping sound somewhere inside the cars body when I 
turn corners real sharp anybody got any clue what it is? It is not 
coming from the suspension so dont waste your time and everyone 
elses suggesting it.If I slam on the brakes and jam the wheel around 
it really gets loud.The frame is not rust damaged so its anyone 
guess.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 03:22:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Michelin Pilot Tire Pressures

I use 26 front - 30 rear and get a good ride with minimal steering 
effort. Use 44 for long term storage (over 30 days). BTW the hard 
ride is probably not the tires.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> What does everyone else have theirs set at?   It says max is 44, 
so I have my 
> fronts at 30 PSI and my rears at 35 PSI.   I do have a hard ride, 
does anyone 
> else suggest using different pressures?   I was told that using 
the orignal 
> pressure specifications for the NCTs will cause the Pilots to wear 
abnormally 
> since they are NOT the same tires as NCTs.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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