From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1882
Date: Friday, February 20, 2004 10:50 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DWC
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

2. Thank you, Delorean Motor Company
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Replacement Automatic Antenna for the DeLorean
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: top speed...?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. Re: Re: Cutting keys at the show?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

6. Never titled, 400 mile DeLorean for sale... update! (available again....)
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: An Source of Disinformation
From: AngularTableKnight <knightoftheslightlyangulartable_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: top speed...?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

9. Re: may want to buy....
From: "ccssinc_net" <johnb_at_dml_ccssinc.com>

10. Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

11. Delorean Key
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

13. Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Re: Cutting keys at the show?
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

15. Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. More speedometer calibration nonsense & TAB status
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

17. Front rotor replacement
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

18. RE: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trail ing arm bolts, etc etc
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

19. Re: Front rotor replacement
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: More speedometer calibration nonsense & TAB status
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Front rotor replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: An Source of Disinformation
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Front rotor replacement
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

25. Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:22:16 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: Re: DWC

That sounds lovely. Is DeLorean Welding Company located anywhere in 
particular?

Farrar




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 18:17:25 -0500
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Thank you, Delorean Motor Company

Thanks to DMC in Texas, they just saved me from the dreaded possibility of replacing the power window regulators.  
It was suggested that the window switches only needed replacing.  I was skeptical, but I orderd the switches - which very promptly arrived, then istalled them.  Now the windows are working great.  Just goes to show what can happen to switches over time - either losing conductivity, or plain wearing out.

Dean Thomas



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:20:58 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement Automatic Antenna for the DeLorean

Wow they look just the antennas on EBay for sale for the delorean for a 
small fraction of the price, thanks for the new antenna source.

Mark


On Wednesday, February 18, 2004, at 10:51 PM, Gary Hull wrote:

> Has anyone tried this replacement antenna?
>
> http://www.teptronics.com/ln46.html
>
> Gary
>
> IN2TIME.com



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:22:02 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: top speed...?

87MPH, i am afraid to hit 88MPH.

Mark


On Thursday, February 19, 2004, at 01:56 AM, Darkstar wrote:

> I was just wondering what is the top speed you have had your cars up 
> to? on



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 17:30:04 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cutting keys at the show?

I used the key that came with my car and had duplicates made with a key 
cutting machine, nothing was cut by code.
I imagine the key code on the door only works with the original 
ignition.

Any professional locksmith can cut a key for you, thats what makes them 
a professional ( i am not talking about taking a key down to the local 
hardware store and having a 16 year old kid cut your key).

Mark
6683



On Thursday, February 19, 2004, at 02:26 PM, Stephen Card wrote:

> I only have one of each key (two key car) and want to get two new
> origionals cut by code. Did your local locksmith cut them by code?
> Not to mention I would rather support the Delorean community when
> possible.
> Stephen
> Vin 3601



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 18:44:22 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Never titled, 400 mile DeLorean for sale... update! (available again....)

A few months back I posted to the list about a 1982 DeLorean I saw for sale that had only 400 miles and had never been titled. I had a lot of responses, but by the time I got to the owner, he told me it was sold. Well, it seems that the supposed buyer's loan didn't come through, so now it's available again. The owner saw my DeLorean and asked if I could help him sell it. I said sure, but I'll need to have the car in my possession to sell it. He agreed, so now I'm representing the car for him. 

I took a quick look at the car and this is what I saw: This car has perfect stainless, but the fascias need to be repainted. The car runs beautifully (5-speed). The interior is almost perfect, but does need a little attention. The dash and binnacle have some cracking. The owner said it happened when it was outside on the lot for sale. It wasn't outside too long, but it doesn't take much to get these dashes to crack. Also, the drivers side a-pillar cover should be replaced. The rest of the grey interior is gorgeous and smells like a brand new DeLorean. The car seems to be all original and would definitely be a contender for a concourse competition. Whoever buys this car will be the first owner.

In a world where there are few untitled DeLoreans left, it was difficult for me to get a low price out of the owner. However, seeing that the last one I heard about for sale had a price tag of $75,000, if memory serves me correctly, this one is a real bargain. Price is $25,000. That's about $15,000 less than the standard refurbished DeLorean, and it won't take nearly that much money to mint this car out and win a concourse competition. 

So, for those of you who have waited for the perfect DeLorean show car, or a brand new every-day driver, here's your opportunity.

Please e-mail me directly if you are interested. I live in NJ, so the car can be seen here. I'll answer any questions as well. 

Thank you,
---Dan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 15:55:13 -0800 (PST)
From: AngularTableKnight <knightoftheslightlyangulartable_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: An Source of Disinformation

 Okay, so, please explain what's wrong with the quote.

Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com> wrote:
>
> HERE IS THE QUOTE
> 
> "As it (DMC) hovers close to bankruptcy, the government calls in 
> 
>the receiver who is optimistic about salvaging it. Until, that is, 
>the lead character (JZD) is implicated in a $5 million dollar cocaine deal. 
>In prison, he (JZD) turns to God."
> 

TALK ABOUT THE VICTORS WRITING THEIR OWN HISTORY. HERE IT IS!!

BOB



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 00:05:08 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: top speed...?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I was just wondering what is the top speed you have had your cars up to? on
> a run up from Tucson to the bay area I did a stretch of about 100 miles at
> 126 to 128 MPH (checked the conversion of RPM to MPH when I got home)...
> fifth gear pedal to the floor... handled wonderfully... gotta love Valentine
> One...
> 
> Darkstar

I've hit about 130-132mph  according to the RPM conversion chart in mine. But that was 
also on a cool night, with some denatured alcohol, and other various solvents mixed in 
with my fuel.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 00:49:27 -0000
From: "ccssinc_net" <johnb_at_dml_ccssinc.com>
Subject: Re: may want to buy....

Marvin

You are 100% correct every time I pull the cover off it is as you 
say "touch me, try me, use me, but don't abuse me". I have found 
that there is a price for everything. But also the more you want to 
keep something the higher the price becomes. 

Gary

Has this one at a dam good price. But would you drive it? 

How about a Concours DeLorean with only 170 miles for $28,000?

http://www.deloreancarshow.com/concours.html 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> To: john_at_dml_c... who offered me his car for $35,000.00:
> 
> Thanks for the consideration. Your low mile car looks great. I 
hope some
> interest may be generated for someone else to buy your car, when 
they see
> your pictures. The price is out of my league ----  that's over 
$50,000
> Canadian dollars.
> 
> Several people asked me why would I sell my car if it's a great 
driver?
> Maybe I won't!
> 





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 03:17:24 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc

My car is #1604, and while I thought the earlier cars had 2 key 
systems, mine only uses one...well...sort of.  I can use the same 
key for both doors, the ignition, and the gas cap.  When placing it 
in the ignition though, it's very difficult to get it in, and 
usually takes me about 10 seconds each time even after having the 
car for 6 months now.  It does work, though.  What could I do about 
this?  

Secondly, I have been cleaning up my engine compartment and 
replacing some of the hardware, removing rust, etc.  Now that I have 
the muffler out, I can really see how rusty my exhaust manifolds 
are.  Would it be worthwhile to pull these off and clean them up?  I 
am afraid it will be opening a can of worms unnecessarily since I 
have no exhaust leaks as it is, but they are very, very rusty.  

Third, my lower and upper control arms are very rusty, as is the  
front sway bar.  Can these items be removed easily for clean-up?  I 
know I'll need a spring compressor.  

Fourth, I'd like to just ask the group how they go about preparing a 
surface to be painted, such as the metal windshield headers.  My 
technique has been to sand the part down to bare metal, scrub with 
acetone, and then prime and paint.  It seems to be working ok so 
far, but I am always open to tips and suggestions.  

Lastly, I still need to replace my trailing arm bolts.  What is the 
correct way to support the car on jackstands while doing this 
procedure?  

Also, if anyone can think of anything else I could do while I'm 
doing all of these other things, please feel free to mention it.  
I'd rather be doing these things now than when it's warm outside :)

Matt
#1604




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 20:04:03 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean Key

Awhile ago I saw a Delorean Lighted battery key, I don't remeber where though.  Are they available and if so where can I get one?  I can't find the website or forgot.



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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 22:28:45 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc

To lubricate your ignition use a graphite lubricant that NAPA sells, i 
used it on mine now it works like new.

Mark
6683

On Thursday, February 19, 2004, at 09:17 PM, supermattthehero wrote:

> My car is #1604, and while I thought the earlier cars had 2 key
> systems, mine only uses one...well...sort of.  I can use the same
> key for both doors, the ignition, and the gas cap.  When placing it
> in the ignition though, it's very difficult to get it in, and
> usually takes me about 10 seconds each time even after having the
> car for 6 months now.  It does work, though.  What could I do about
> this?
>



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 04:34:11 -0000
From: "dmc001629" <dmc001629_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc

Hey Matt:

I have car #1629, and started driving it as a daily driver in August of 2003.  Just for the record, my car came with (2) keys.  The ignition 
key is a long key with a square, black plastic end.  I can use this key for the ignition, the gas cap, and the storage compartment 
behind the driver's seat.  The door key has a large plastic end equipped with a light, and is large enough to put a small round battery 
in it. The metal shaft is smaller on this key than the ignition key.

I'm certain you will get some good advice from the list about the rust concerns.  I would say that I was told by a few people that 
getting the parts, workshop, and bulletins manuals would be a good idea before really tearing into the car.  I bought all three, and have 
found them quite helpful.  I also have the original Owner's Manual, that details jacking locations, etc.

#1629 has 3,400 original miles on it, and keeping it clean this winter.  I think this is half the battle in fighting off the rust.  And, I am 
mostly referring to the frame.

Good Luck.

Ramon




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 00:52:38 -0500 EST
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cutting keys at the show?

A local locksmith here will do it for $20 and I will pass that price on 
to you - + shipping. I just need the code and I will ask them for 
confirmation that it can be done before I take payment.

You would get a 1 sided blank (code cut master) which would be used to 
tracecut the 2 sides of the complete key.

You would use the code cut 1 sided key to make all future keys and thus 
all be 1st gen keys.

regards,

Michael
vin 6067

> I only have one of each key (two key car) and want to get two new 
> origionals cut by code. Did your local locksmith cut them by code? 
> Not to mention I would rather support the Delorean community when 
> possible.
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
> 
> > What's wrong with the local locksmith?
> 



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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 06:07:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV

Another engine conversion option:

Next week I am scheduled to pick up a new in the crate PRV with
carbureted heads (no fuel injector ports) and single barrel intake
manifold. This is a factory design, not aftermarket conversion. Is
complete with all accessories except an A/C compressor (alternator
would need to be flipped to other side of the block with DeLo brackets
to use stock exhaust. Exhaust manifolds would also need to be changed
to use DeLo crossover pipe). Current carb is LP, but any 1 barrel
gasoline model should bolt up.  

Will post pics after I get it home. Seller currently has one more
available at $500.

Carbureted PRV has many fewer access issues than CI version. Ignition
distributor is completely unobstructed, as well as heater core return
barb next to it. Intake manifold is easily removed to access water
distribution pipe (carburetor remains bolted to manifold). DeLo
transmission slave cylinder would be totally exposed. Spark plug wires
are of course the only loose items above valve cover level (and a low
pressure fuel line to the carb, plus 12v if electric choke equipped).

Fuel delivery on a carbureted PRV is also easier to set up and
maintain. Of course DeLo accumulator and filter would not be used. Do
not know yet if PRV was ever equipped for a diaphragm pump, but even a
low pressure electrical pump shouldn't be too objectionable. Stock
Lambda and idle speed ECU's would be surplus.

BTW: I will soon be in the market for an engineless, or damaged
engine, DeLorean. Will need a transmission -- 5 speed preferred.
Contact me off list with possible leads: brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 13:28:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: More speedometer calibration nonsense & TAB status

I finally purchased a replacement angle-drive and now have a working 
speedometer.

Either it's out of calibration or I have really been speeding.

Like many others, I've been driving with the RPM/MPH conversion chart 
strapped to my steering wheel and Mike Cohee and I had the "tearing 
up" ceremony during the test drive. My question is this:

The chart reads 2500 RPM=65 MPH. Yet I hit 65 at 2350/2400 RPM, and 
almost 70 MPH at 2500 RPM. Is it at all accurate to compare the 
speedometer to this conversion chart? I'm just trying to figure out 
how far off I am.

Lastly, for those who were following my "Great TAB Disaster", it took 
a lot of heat, but the snapped bolt was finally extracted from the 
trailing arm, so I'm back on the road. I've only been online for 15 
months but I see new owners all the time. CHECK YOUR TRAILING ARM 
BOLTS! It was dangerous, violent and scary when I snapped mine. I 
didn't even hit anything and I still twisted my back.


Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:52:51 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Front rotor replacement

I'm getting ready to replace the rotors and I plan to go ahead and replace
the wheel bearings while I'm in there. Are there any other parts I should
consider replacing while I'm at it?



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:53:53 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trail ing arm bolts, etc etc

Unless you want a GIANT headache I wouldn't mess with them until you have an
exhaust leak. I thought I'd do a quick change of my exhaust gaskets and (siz
months later) I still haven't gotten all the leaks out!

> Secondly, I have been cleaning up my engine compartment and
> replacing some of the hardware, removing rust, etc.  Now that I have
> the muffler out, I can really see how rusty my exhaust manifolds
> are.  Would it be worthwhile to pull these off and clean them up?  I
> am afraid it will be opening a can of worms unnecessarily since I
> have no exhaust leaks as it is, but they are very, very rusty.
> 
 



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:00:17 -0500
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Front rotor replacement

In a message dated 2/20/2004 8:52:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com writes:

> I'm getting ready to replace the rotors and I plan to go ahead and replace
> the wheel bearings while I'm in there. Are there any other 
> parts I should
> consider replacing while I'm at it?

>>>
What about your tie rod ends? steering rack? good time to remove your calipers and paint them, install stainless braided brake lines, flush brakes, install speedo guide bracket, etc.

Andy



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:00:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: More speedometer calibration nonsense & TAB status

The tach is not as accurate as the speedo can be if properly
calibrated. That chart is ONLY meant to be close so in the event you
lose the speedo you can still approximate your speed. Be sure to use
the correct chart. If you have a 5-speed you cannot use the automatic
chart and vice-versa. I keep a laminated chart laying on my binnacle
just in case so don't tear up you chart, you never know when it will
come in handy. Now that your speedometer is working (and hopefully
accurate) you can create your own chart. Of course if your clutch is
slipping at all then you can be way off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I finally purchased a replacement angle-drive and now have a working 
> speedometer.
> 
> Either it's out of calibration or I have really been speeding.
> 
> Like many others, I've been driving with the RPM/MPH conversion chart 
> strapped to my steering wheel and Mike Cohee and I had the "tearing 
> up" ceremony during the test drive. My question is this:
> 
> The chart reads 2500 RPM=65 MPH. Yet I hit 65 at 2350/2400 RPM, and 
> almost 70 MPH at 2500 RPM. Is it at all accurate to compare the 
> speedometer to this conversion chart? I'm just trying to figure out 
> how far off I am.
> 
> Lastly, for those who were following my "Great TAB Disaster", it took 
> a lot of heat, but the snapped bolt was finally extracted from the 
> trailing arm, so I'm back on the road. I've only been online for 15 
> months but I see new owners all the time. CHECK YOUR TRAILING ARM 
> BOLTS! It was dangerous, violent and scary when I snapped mine. I 
> didn't even hit anything and I still twisted my back.
> 
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:11:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front rotor replacement

Why are you replacing the rotors? Unless they are warped or grooved
they should be fine. You can even take a very small cut on each side
to true them up if needed. When replacing rotors it is good practice
to also replace the brake pads, anti-squeal shims, pins, and springs.
You should actually replace all the same things on the other wheel too
(not the rotor also unless grooved or warped). Remember to flush the
brake system if it has been 2 years or more since last done. Inspect
the rubber boots on the tie rod ends and rack, the shocks for leakage,
the brake hoses for cracks or braid showing. Do a general inspection
of the entire front end and grease the ball joints, tie rod ends, and
angle drive. Spray some silicone lubricant on the spring perches,
steer bushing, and sway bar bushings. Clean the ground wires by the
front left wheel. Inspect the radiator for green staining and leaks.
Look for bubbling paint by the brake and clutch cylinders. Don't just
focus on the brakes, look around for ANYTHING that needs attention.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to replace the rotors and I plan to go ahead and
replace
> the wheel bearings while I'm in there. Are there any other parts I
should
> consider replacing while I'm at it?




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:30:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: An Source of Disinformation

The primary problem with the quote is the use of the
term "prison".  He was never in prison.

Yes, he did spend some time in the Los Angeles County
Jail after his arrest and during the trial, but he was
not convicted of any wrongdoing,.  

It is also true that his "religious convictions"
became  a media concern while in the L.A. jail, but
whether he "found God" in jail, or "turned to God for
guidance" while there is something only JZD knows.

Dick Ryan
Vin 16867

--- AngularTableKnight
<knightoftheslightlyangulartable_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>  Okay, so, please explain what's wrong with the
> quote.

> Until, that is, 
> >the lead character (JZD) is implicated in a $5
> million dollar cocaine deal. 
> >In prison, he (JZD) turns to God."



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:40:59 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Front rotor replacement

Hi Travis.  The only other parts I can think of, are the pads, 
calipers, anti-squeal shims and dust sheilds.  Might as well bleed 
your brakes while you're in there if they haven't been.

Are you putting on the stock rotors or the vented ones from Mr. 
Hervey?  Just curious as I would like to do that myself.

Johnny
5518


I'm getting ready to replace the rotors and I plan to go ahead and 
replace the wheel bearings while I'm in there. Are there any other 
parts I should consider replacing while I'm at it?




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 17:04:48 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Another engine conversion option:
> 
> Next week I am scheduled to pick up a new in the crate PRV with
> carbureted heads (no fuel injector ports)
<SNIP>

I've thought about this too in the past, but I don't know how cost 
prohibitive it would be to obtain the parts. Earlier versions of the 
PRV used in the Alpines had two setups that I've seen: Either triple-
deuce Webers (wouldn't that be interesting to have a tri-power 
DeLorean!), or on some of their rally cars, I've seen six, single 
barrel carbs installed (don't know if these were Webers, or Solex).

I thought about carburetion after my disappointing letdown with the 
Eagle Premier motor. I was hoping to simply swap my existing 
manifold, and fuel injection right over. But it looks as though 
Dourvin decided to sacrifice fuel injection ports for larger intake 
ports. Wise move for them, bad for me and my hopeful cheap engine 
swap. Not that I care about the fuel injection ports per se (I could 
remount the injectors on to the manifold if need be), but I doubt 
that the manifold is going to properly mate up to those larger intake 
ports. Otherwise, the Eagle motors can sometimes be had pretty 
cheaply, and have the reliability of the PRV's heretage behind it. 
Even a coworker of mine who used to drive a Premier said that she 
abused the car, and even after overheating several times, the motor 
still ran strong.

TWM Induction used to sell custom intake manifolds & throttle valves, 
and intake boxes for the PRV 2.8L motor (I assume that covers stock 
DeLo motors). But TWM has since sold this off the Pierce Manifolds, 
whom now says that they outsource their Manifolds from Mangoletsi, 
and now they no longer seem to carry anything for the PRV. So if you 
are switching over to carbs, and don't have the nessisary manifolds, 
or you plan on fabricating them anyways, I'd reccomend looking at a 
Eagle Premier motor. They've got larger displacement, higher 
compression, and early versions have the distributor mounted right to 
the crankshaft where you can easily get to it. FI, is just as good, 
but takes ALLOT more patience to install/tune. Otherwise carburetion 
doesn't really have all that much more of an advantage.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:26:46 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV

Bill,

Could you provide more info on this engine.  Is it 2.8L
What is its CR?
Any HP or Torque info.
When was it built?








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