From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1884
Date: Sunday, February 22, 2004 9:51 AM

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Delorean mention on Car and Driver TV.
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

3. More TAB nonsense
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Re: Tab repair and a little info on #003299.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Delorean mention on Car and Driver TV.
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

6. Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV (Robert)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

7. Re: Turbo charging a Rover V8
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Different DeLorean Specs...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

9. ALTERNATOR SOLVED AND GRAB HANDLES
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: PRV Oil Passage Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Frozen suspension bolts
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Pressure plate bolts
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Parts Car...one more time...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

14. Re: Pressure plate bolts
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: Frozen suspension bolts
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. 2nd generation?
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

17. DeLorean for sale in Florida
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 23:08:06 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV

Here is a link to the information on the engine. Found it through Google.
John Hervey

http://www.geocities.com/davemcbean/V6.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brandys [mailto:BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com]
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 10:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV


Bill,

Could you provide more info on this engine.  Is it 2.8L
What is its CR?
Any HP or Torque info.
When was it built?









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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 12:57:42 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: Delorean mention on Car and Driver TV.

If anyone watches Spike TV's "powerblock"on the weekends, they have a short segment on the Delorean on C&D television. I'd say the segment was rather fair for publicity, even noting their magazine review of the car being fun to drive. No mention made of the "problems" of DMC, thus enhancing the effectiveness of it's segment. 

Spike tv's powerblock repeats on Sunday as well, check your local listings.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster http://www.88-mph.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 16:31:42 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: More TAB nonsense

In response to Dave T's last post regarding proper TAB procedures,
I'd like to say that

A) I made sure the mechanic knew to torque down with the full weight 
on the suspension. He did this correctly.
B) Heat was only applied to the trailing arm when it was out of the 
vehicle. The bushing was not heated.
C) The one thing he did that concerned me, was slather everything in 
anti-sieze.

How far off are the torque readings if you apply anti-sieze? How 
concerned should I be?

Thanks,

Rich A.




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 10:43:35 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tab repair and a little info on #003299.

Jeremiah,

     Ill go out on a limb here, I was wondering when
you fixed the vacume leaks and removed the manifold,
what was the condition of your hot water pipe from the
heater and the casting under the y-pipe.  Was the
casting filled with crap and old copper washers? 
Basically hiw did it look under your manifold

jordan

11613 


--- Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>   Rich, I'm going to tell you right off the bat that
> your story alone convinced me to check my TABS this
> week; I'm replacing them next week when I buy my new
> rack and pinion.  What happened to you was downright
> frightening; I'm glad the car is A-ok (and you ;) ).
>  I haven't even checked my TABs yet, but the guy I
> bought my car from had almost EVERYTHING original -



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 14:28:39 -0500
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean mention on Car and Driver TV.

Thought it was a nice little segment about the car.

At least they said nothing bad.



On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 12:57:42 -0500 "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
writes:
> If anyone watches Spike TV's "powerblock"on the weekends, they have a 
> short segment on the Delorean on C&D television. 



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:20:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions -- Carbureted PRV (Robert)

Cost eficiency played a large roll in both my initial chosing of the
even-fire PRV, and my deciding against it. Pretty much, I've leaned
away from the conversion because of the cost efficiency of the fuel
injection system. I've already gotten quite a bit invested in the fuel
injection system as it is. Over the past 4 years, 2 sets of fuel
injectors, 2 fuel pumps as of this spring, $1K alone for the fuel
distributor, lambda probe, ignition module, and the associated hoses
and what not that have gone into the restoration of the fuel system. I
really just hate the idea dumping these perfectly good parts that I've
paid for, and had tuned, because the new engine cannot accomodate
them.

Another factor in my initial choosing was also that since it was a
drop-in, I wasn't really going to have to worry about modifications to
the car. Swap out plates on the engine, and I could use my old motor
mounts, and since the displacement was only going to be marginally
larger, I could just stick with the stock cooling system. And of
course, I was really looking forward to converting my engine over from
two "V" belts, over to a single Serpentine that was self tensioning.

As for engine options, I've decided that if I'm going to put the time
and money into it, then it's going to be either all, or nothing. I've
thought about turbo charging, but have thought that if I'm going to go
all the way, I'd love to really turbocharge one of those Rover V8
engines. But I can't even find any instances of where anyone has put
forced induction onto one of those motors. At least with the PRV, some
factory versions of them came turbo charged, and there is some
documentation on them. But even then, I'd outsource as many parts, and
knowlege as possible from the UK, since the motors are a bit more
prevalent ocross the pond. So if I'm gonna go that route, then I'm not
gonna bother even looking any further at the even-fire PRVs that are
available domesticly, since I can't really use them. Besides that, I
like the easy to tune CIS on my car, even if it does drink like a fish
when you slam the gas pedal down. It's only economical if you are.

Otherwise, unless I perform something totally major like a
turbocharged setup, I'm just not too fond of the idea of investing a
couple grand, and allot of time with an EFI installtion, just for a
marginal gain in power. Especially when Houston offers such a
lucrative turn-key upgrade. But by the same token, I'm still very
non-commital at this point. I may install a universal EFI kit that I
can later on use with a turbo charged system, or I may even cut and
weld one of those 3.0L manifolds to accomodate my CIS. I've not yet
set my mind to any firm decisions, as I'm not quite up to the engine
work portion of my car yet. But rest assured, while I may have leaned
twards, or against different things, I've not writting anything off
entirely yet.

Who knows. In the end, I may just become so indecisive amout engine
upgrades and swaps, that I may just build both a turbo, and non
aspirated, and swap them in and out of the car whenever I see fit.
Although I've got to admit. With the track record that I've had with
my existing PRV, that has certainly made an impression on me to stick
with these motors.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> Why did you give up on the B280? I really desire one of those,
> especially for the even fire sequence.
<SNIP>




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:35:14 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo charging a Rover V8

Robert,

The early 3.5 liter version of the Rover V8 was essentially the same as 
the GM 215 aluminum V-8 because that is who Rover bought the engine 
producing equipment from

There was a turbo charged version of this engine produced in 1962-63 in 
Starfire oldsmobiles.  You occasionally see complete engines and parts 
for sale. It even came with water injection.  

If you are interested in putting one in a Delorean ,  I would talk to 
Turbocity,  they specialize in this engine and its modifications.

BOB




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 00:18:00 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Different DeLorean Specs...

Just out of curiosity...

Is the correct kW for the engine 96 kW or 97 kW?
I have seen both numbers in different registration documents...not that it matter very much, but I still would like to know what is correct?

Also, what is the correct weight of the car?
1290 kg or 1233 kg?

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 17:03:04 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ALTERNATOR SOLVED AND GRAB HANDLES

New Belt and bad grounding strap from battery to frame major causes, oddly bolt was tight but not secure on the wire!  Don't know which one was the problem but the belt made bad noises very bad and it was not the right fit anyway.
 
Anyone know the correct black paint for the grab handles for the inside of the door?
Since I have them off the doors and they have faded to an almost dark grey, and I want to paint them because I NEVER want to pull them off AGAIN!
THANKS TO ALL!


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 02:15:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Oil Passage Problems

B27 and B28 camshafts are constructed from the same material (only
difference is cam height). Both engines share the same small oil
passage problem to the valve train. Both suffer from excessive wear if
oil is not meticulously maintained. The problem was not resolved until
B280.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=708391

F series merely denotes low compression North American import. There
are both B27F's (1976-1979) and B28F's (1980-1987). The engine I
purchased last fall is a B27F.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> For those of you contemplating using the earlier incarnations of the
> PRV engine, be aware of the potential problems they have with the
> camshafts. All of the versions prior to the B28-F eventually have
> problems with camshaft wear. Perhaps using a synthetic oil will help.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > Ah yes, the Renault 6 pack. Imminently silly on a 171 inch engine.
> > I've uploaded a couple of pics to #5939's photo album if anyone wants
> > to see what they looked like.
> > 
> > Even the pedestrian R30 (early versions) used a funny dual carb setup
> > (a single barrel and a 2 barrel in series).
> > 
> > The engine I'm buying is a basic A series Volvo block. Don't know yet
> > if B27 or B28. Very simple single venturi, single plane manifold. Low




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 03:39:09 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Frozen suspension bolts

While removing all the components of the frame, I have bolts 20, 33,
and 25 (section 5.3.0) all frozen in place. Is there any way to free
these without destroying them? I'm already spending a lot on a front
extension section so I wanted to spend as little extra as possible-I
guess thats impossible when doing a full rebuild of the car but still
in all. I've already tried to spray them with lube and rattle them to
crack whatever corrosion is holding them-no luck. Any tricks or
helpful hints? Thanks




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 03:44:54 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Pressure plate bolts

I am wondering if there is any special stregnth bolts I should use to
replace the stock pressure plate bolts with regular "hex head" bolts.
The stock ones are pretty stripped from the hex key. Also should I
loctite these? Thanks all




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:01:23 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Parts Car...one more time...

Hey Gang,

Well, in my efforts to help Ken and Dave Bauerle with parting out 
unrestorable cars, I've been told about, or come across a few other cars 
out there that have been sitting, or have been started to be parted out, 
and the owners have abandoned them.  I'm happy to report that at least 
three of these cars are now in the more than capable hands of Ken 
Koncelik, and he is in the process of returning them to the road! (that 
makes 8 now for those of you keeping track...haha)

However, after looking long and hard, I did finally find another car 
that had the right combination of elements to be nothing more than a new 
parts car.  It has a few very good components, low mileage, (approx 
30,000) but it is missing some vital elements. (like almost everything 
that bolts onto the car from the passenger cabin back, including the 
engine!) Additionally, the car has been exposed to the elements for 
about 3 years, and the interior pieces mostly need redyed and/or recovered.

Frame is shot...and will most likely be donated to Rich and his new 
welding company.  Wheels are currently being sandblasted along with the 
ones from the fire car, and all the good original NCT tires have been 
saved.  If you have a need for a specific part or parts to get your car 
perfect for Pigeon Forge, and don't have a lot of money to do it...shoot 
me an e-mail off list, (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) I can probably help you 
out.  Be aware that these parts are used.  If you are looking for normal 
wear items like door struts, angle drives, brake rotors/calipers, shocks 
and the like, talk to Rob Grady, DMC Houston, John Hervey or your other 
favorite parts suppliers.

I also have pictures, if anyone wants to see roughly where I started, I 
can send them upon request.

Thanks for your time,
Josh
VIN 5102 - Mine (still undergoing repairs, but back home)
VIN 15964 - Dad's (my everyday driver)
VIN 3951 - Restoration project (watching for Ken)
VIN 5609 - Parts
VIN 11289 - Fire Damaged Car/Parts
VIN 10263 - Parts

PS- my neighbor has threatened to call the zoning board because my 
driveway looks like a used DeLorean lot instead of a residence, so 
please help me keep her happy by buying some parts! (haha)





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 06:07:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Pressure plate bolts

They are relatively high-strength bolts. They are not hard to find. 
Otherwise nothing special about them, I actually buy exactly the same 
ones at the local hardware store, still in "hex". I'm not sure why 
they are hex screws other than they may tend to tighten more uniformly 
without washers than regular bolts. 

The torque setting on those is actually very light - maybe 15 ft-lbs 
if I recall correctly - but use loctite on the threads. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am wondering if there is any special stregnth bolts I should use 
to
> replace the stock pressure plate bolts with regular "hex head" 
bolts.
> The stock ones are pretty stripped from the hex key. Also should I
> loctite these? Thanks all




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:28:15 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen suspension bolts

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> While removing all the components of the frame, I have bolts 20, 33,
> and 25 (section 5.3.0) all frozen in place. Is there any way to free
> these without destroying them? I'm already spending a lot on a front
> extension section so I wanted to spend as little extra as possible-I
> guess thats impossible when doing a full rebuild of the car but 
still
> in all. I've already tried to spray them with lube and rattle them 
to
> crack whatever corrosion is holding them-no luck. Any tricks or
> helpful hints? Thanks

Have you tried applying heat? That's often how stuck trailing arm 
bolts and exhaust manifold studs are removed.


Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 07:41:54 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 2nd generation?


What could the seller in this auction possibly mean by "second generation"?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462116067

Here is his statement "Here it is DeLorean lovers! 2nd. owner 1981 2nd. generation! (if you are a true Delorean lover you know the 2nd. generation is better to own than the first). "  The Vin on this car is 6126.  I didn't know that the removal of the gas-flap was considered a "generation".  ;)

-Hank  #1619



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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 15:38:37 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net>
Subject: DeLorean for sale in Florida

Hello all!

My current situation forces me to advertise my DeLorean for sale. Here's
some info about it:
Nov. 1981, hood with lines (no gas flap), less than 30 k miles on it, 5
speed, gray interior. Lot's of new parts, so many that I don't even remember
all that I've done to the car. Some of the things that I've done include:
new brakes (all callipers, master cyl., pads), front wheel bearings,
steering rack from PJ Grady, tires, door struts, injectors, fuel
accumulator, belts, all fluids and filters and lots of other stuff. Rebuilt
A/C (ice cold even in FL summer stop and go traffic). This is the fastest
DeLorean I have ever driven - no other stock D can keep up with me!
Things that are wrong with the car: the dash is ugly (brown and cracked),
headliner is missing (the backboards are in place but the material is gone),
carpets are a little dirty, seats show their age but there are no rips or
tears. There are a few dings and scraches in the stainless on front fenders
and hood.
The price is $14k
If anyone is interested email me at tomcio'AT'gtemail.net

The car is located in Clearwater Florida

The deal is good this week only. After that the car must be gone.

Tom Niemczewski
tomcio'AT'gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...




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