From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1885
Date: Monday, February 23, 2004 9:55 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: 2nd generation?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Parts Car...one more time...
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Crankshaft Pulley Nut?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

6. Re: Frozen suspension bolts
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

8. Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

9. NOS Seat Covers
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: NOS Seat Covers
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

11. Re: NOS Seat Covers
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: NOS Seat Covers
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Black Interior
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: NOS Seat Covers
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. hello List- Parts car for sale
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>

20. Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

21. New angle drive received and installed...
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: More TAB nonsense
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

23. Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. RE: NOS Seat Covers
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Frozen suspension bolts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:58:34 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 2nd generation?

This is the exact quote from the seller when i asked the same  
question......
> "1st. edition had electrical problems. !st. edition has a flat hood.  
> Please give me a call if your interested!! 614-206-0980

Brian"


He sounds a little mixed up to me.

Mark



On Sunday, February 22, 2004, at 06:41 AM, Henry wrote:

>
> What could the seller in this auction possibly mean by "second  
> generation"?
>
> Here is his statement "Here it is DeLorean lovers! 2nd. owner 1981  
> 2nd. generation! (if you are a true Delorean lover you know the 2nd.  
> generation is better to own than the first). "  The Vin on this car is  
> 6126.  I didn't know that the removal of the gas-flap was considered a  
> "generation".  ;)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:04:43 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the engine 
block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I made 
sure to soak the bolt for the last week with liquid wrench. Now the 
screw isnt a problem, it is the new broken off extractor in it 
is!!!!!!! There is no way I can get that out, so where is another 
place I could tap a hole for another screw? The broken off one is on 
the right hand side closest to the rear fascia. I wish that I just 
tapped a smaller hole inside the old bolt intead of putting my faith 
in a $3 extractor which now will cost me a lot of $$$$$$ >:( 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 14:32:22 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

Don't know about the new hole, but you might be able to get out the
extractor by welding a small tab onto it to get it out.  

If you're careful, it shouldn't be a problem tacking something to the
steel.  The aluminum won't stick, and will dissipate heat very quickly
becuase of it's size.

Jim
1537

On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:04:43 -0000 "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
writes:
> I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the engine 
> block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I 
> made 
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 20:16:07 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Car...one more time...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Hey Gang,
> 
> Well, in my efforts to help Ken and Dave Bauerle with parting out 
> unrestorable cars, I've been told about, or come across a few other 
cars 
> out there that have been sitting, or have been started to be parted 
out, 
> and the owners have abandoned them.  I'm happy to report that at 
least 
> three of these cars are now in the more than capable hands of Ken 
> Koncelik, 

Hey Josh,
 Do you have any body panels that are in descent condition? I am 
about to buy a red car and would like to get it back to it's bare 
glory with out spending a bunch of money. How much would you charge 
me for the panels? How would one grill logo cost?
 Thanks man,
      Josh
  




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:10:49 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?

Can someone please tell me the size of the crankshaft pulley nut, PN 
102474 (Section 7-2-1#21)
Section C:09:01 gives me the torque value but doesn't give me the 
size. My set doesn't go quite that big so I will have to go get the 
size I need.
Thanks,
Stephen 
Vin 3601




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:34:27 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Frozen suspension bolts

So today I tried to get the bolts free, and heres the deal... I used
the heat on the rear hub carrier, and it released the bolts. NOW,
whats rusted to the bolt is the center steel piece of the top link and
bottom link. So now when I try to spin the bolt, it just spins the
steel sleeve inside the rubber...Any ideas on this one or am I totally
screwed here. Thanks all-Dan Benedek #5003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:54:13 -0000
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?



> I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the engine
> block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I made
> sure to soak the bolt for the last week with liquid wrench. Now the
> screw isnt a problem, it is the new broken off extractor in it
> is!!!!!!! There is no way I can get that out, so where is another
> place I could tap a hole for another screw? The broken off one is on
> the right hand side closest to the rear fascia. I wish that I just
> tapped a smaller hole inside the old bolt intead of putting my faith
> in a $3 extractor which now will cost me a lot of $$$$$$ >:(

Been there done that, I had 1 of the 4 bolts in the Y coolant pipe break. I
tried welding a nut onto it which did not work for me, so I started to drill
it out then used a screw extractor / easy out. Bad move. In the end I used a
dremel with the attachment that looks like a rubber (eraser). It took
several but in then end I managed to gind it all out then re taped the hole
and when i put it all back together I used a longer bolt.

Good luck

Chris S





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:53:31 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...

Hey Josh,

I do have good panels...enough to do a whole car now in fact.  Asking 
price is half of DMCH's price for each panel.  I am missing the glass 
out of my left rear quarter, but everything else is in excellent 
condition.  Hood is flat.  Left front fenders are a little more 
expensive than everything else, But I can still get them to you for less 
than most people sell them for.

When you get the car stripped, let me know what you need, and we'll take 
it from there.

Thanks,
Josh



Nun Yah wrote:

>Hey Josh,
> Do you have any body panels that are in descent condition? I



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 14:23:48 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: NOS Seat Covers

Hey Everyone, how's it going?

I'm considering the purchase of some NOS seat covers I see pop up on ebay
every now and then.  I've heard some rumors that the seats crack after a
while and am wondering if this is unavoidable or can be remedied by proper
hide care.  Any input on this? Thanks!

Jon Weiner
#3215





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:48:48 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: NOS Seat Covers

www.delorean.com has brand new ones cheaper than EBay. the ones on ebay 
are NOS 23 year old covers, the ones DMCH are brand new.

Mark


On Sunday, February 22, 2004, at 04:23 PM, jdub wrote:

> Hey Everyone, how's it going?
>
> I'm considering the purchase of some NOS seat covers I see pop up on 
> ebay
> every now and then.  I've heard some rumors that the seats crack after 
> a
> while and am wondering if this is unavoidable or can be remedied by 
> proper



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:50:10 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: NOS Seat Covers

In a message dated 2/22/04 4:28:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
Hey Everyone, how's it going?

I'm considering the purchase of some NOS seat covers I see pop up on ebay
every now and then.  I've heard some rumors that the seats crack after a
while and am wondering if this is unavoidable or can be remedied by proper
hide care.  Any input on this? Thanks!

Jon Weiner
#3215
>>>>>>

Jon,  

You are probably better off preordering the new seat covers by DMCH, which 
will be brand new and won't crack after a couple years like newly installed NOS 
seats have been known to (if they aren't preserved properly).

You can also get some reproduction covers from PJ Grady - they are more 
expensive but are of (as usual) the highest quality.  I got some of his last year 
and it transformed my car's interior and comfort appeal ten fold.  I don't know 
much about DMCH's, but Grady's will be tough to beat, at any price.  At my 
job, I sit in different types of cars, old and new, all day long.  I would say 
that if my DeLorean's seats had adjustable lumbar support, they would be the 
most comfortable touring seats on the face of the earth.  

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:53:42 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: NOS Seat Covers

All you need is some good leather conditioner.
Of course everyone will tell you to buy the regular stuff they sell at 
Wal-Mart, but those
are just temporary solutiions.

The stuff you need is this:
http://www.leatherique.com/

It is very expesnsive, and some of the steps are time consuming, but if you 
want leather that
feels like a soft glove this is what you need.
This is the stuff they use in museums, and on Rolls Royce's,
and since our cars have "Rolls Royce" interior, this is what you want.

Not only to they have protectors, but they have an amazing system for 
completely
reconditioning old bad leather....

They have a system to sand down the hard and rough spots, then fill in the 
cracks
with crack filler, then recondion the leather, re-dye it and then put thier 
clear protector on it.
As long as it's not actually ripped, their stuff and your elbow grease can 
make it like new again.
That is, if you are up to the task!
No one said it was easy!

But there are solutions.
Check them out, I have about $500 worth of thier stuff in the garage!

http://www.leatherique.com/

Videobob
VIN#5278


>From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: "Dmcnews Mailing List (E-mail)" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] NOS Seat Covers
>Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 14:23:48 -0800
>
>Hey Everyone, how's it going?
>
>I'm considering the purchase of some NOS seat covers I see pop up on ebay
>every now and then. 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:27:16 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Black Interior

Hello to the Group:

Does anyone have black interiour they'd be willing to sell or swap for grey?

My grey interior is in fantastic shape and I was looking to change.

--Greg




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:42:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

Sounds like a job for the Dremel - with time and patience and the 
special bits.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the 
engine 
> block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I 
made 
> sure to soak the bolt for the last week with liquid wrench. Now 
the 
> screw isnt a problem, it is the new broken off extractor in it 
> is!!!!!!! There is no way I can get that out, so where is another 
> place I could tap a hole for another screw? The broken off one is 
on 
> the right hand side closest to the rear fascia. I wish that I just 
> tapped a smaller hole inside the old bolt intead of putting my 
faith 
> in a $3 extractor which now will cost me a lot of $$$$$$ >:(




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:51:30 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?

36mm, and you'll need either an impact wrench, or a tool to lock the 
flywheel and a hoffing big bar.

Martin

Stephen Card wrote:

>Can someone please tell me the size of the crankshaft pulley nut, PN 
>102474 (Section 7-2-1#21)
>Section C:09:01 gives me the torque value but doesn't give me the 
>size. My set doesn't go quite that big so I will have to go get the 
>size I need.
>Thanks,
>Stephen 
>Vin 3601
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:52:47 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: NOS Seat Covers

As long as you take care of them, they'll be fine. It's the neglected 
cars that have problems with the leather going tight and hard. Just 
apply leather care once a month and they'll last 20+ years no problem.

Martin

jdub wrote:

>Hey Everyone, how's it going?
>
>I'm considering the purchase of some NOS seat covers I see pop up on ebay
>every now and then.  I've heard some rumors that the seats crack after a
>while and am wondering if this is unavoidable or can be remedied by proper
>hide care.  Any input on this? Thanks!
>
>Jon Weiner
>#3215
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 00:16:18 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

The intake manifold actually screws into the cylinder head, not the 
block, so you could in theory replace the head. This is why you must 
never trust screw extractors! You may get it out with a dremmel, and 
then tapping and inserting a helicoil is the best long-term solution. 
When drilling these out, use the long bolt that goes into the air intake 
just above the water pump thermostat housing, inserted into the other 
intake manifold mount on the same head. This gives you a really useful 
reference for holding the drill strait

Martin

jmlaux83 wrote:

>I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the engine 
>block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I made 
>sure to soak the bolt for the last week with liquid wrench. Now the 
>screw isnt a problem, it is the new broken off extractor in it 
>is!!!!!!! There is no way I can get that out, so where is another 
>place I could tap a hole for another screw? The broken off one is on 
>the right hand side closest to the rear fascia. I wish that I just 
>tapped a smaller hole inside the old bolt intead of putting my faith 
>in a $3 extractor which now will cost me a lot of $$$$$$ >:( 
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 00:22:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

Based on his description, I think he's talking about one of the 3 
bolts that hold the air cleaner on. Change "intake manifold" to "air 
cleaner" and it makes more sense. 

jmlaux (whatever your name really is) is that what you mean? Is this 
broken bolt on top of the manifold runner or into the head itself? 
What were you taking apart when this broke? 

Dave S

-

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> The intake manifold actually screws into the cylinder head, not the 
> block, so you could in theory replace the head. This is why you 
must 
> never trust screw extractors! You may get it out with a dremmel, 
and 
> then tapping and inserting a helicoil is the best long-term 
solution. 
> When drilling these out, use the long bolt that goes into the air 
intake 
> just above the water pump thermostat housing, inserted into the 
other 
> intake manifold mount on the same head. This gives you a really 
useful 
> reference for holding the drill strait
> 
> Martin
> 
> jmlaux83 wrote:
> 
> >I had a broken off screw from the air intake manifold to the 
engine 
> >block. After some research I decided to use a screw extractor. I 
made 
> >sure to soak the bolt for the last week with liquid wrench. Now 
the 
> >screw isnt a problem, it is the new broken off extractor in it 
> >is!!!!!!! There is no way I can get that out, so where is another 
> >place I could tap a hole for another screw? The broken off one is 
on 
> >the right hand side closest to the rear fascia. I wish that I just 
> >tapped a smaller hole inside the old bolt intead of putting my 
faith 
> >in a $3 extractor which now will cost me a lot of $$$$$$ >:( 
> >  
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:30:43 -0500
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: hello List- Parts car for sale


Hello DML list Members...
I have come across a car, that will be good for parts only... all panels
are pretty decent.. I have all glass  and whole fiberglass body
no damage...No motor, transmisson or frame.. any one interested in anything
please send offers PRIVATELY to 
delo1(AT)mindspring.com
first come basis.....
81 sept car
perfect windshield with antenna
everything is available, can send pictures upon request, how ever I do have
a regular job  ...So will answer  all questions in the evening...

thanks  for your time..... 


thanks  bob miller





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 22:15:45 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?

I tried to get one off today and it was stuck real good 
Penetrating oil and patience. This car had been sitting so I have seen 
stubborn Pulley nuts
before.  You can lock the flywheel but if its really stuck you stand a chance 
of breaking your wrench if its not bigger than 1/2 inch

I have a 3/4 drive and could not break one of them.

penetrating oil and patience seems to always work

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:28:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New angle drive received and installed...

I got my new $60 angle drive from DMC Houston on
Friday, along with a new retaining ring and a set of
instructions. Nice looking piece, and obviously a
newly manufactured part, as their web site address is
cast into the housing (much like their other new
parts). The added grease fitting in place of the set
screw will make lubrication easier, though the bag it
came in has a big label on it that warns against using
pneumatic grease guns. The one thing I found difficult
was how to remove the nut from the old angle drive. I
called them on Saturday, and happened to catch James
there. He described a method of using two picks or
small flat screwdrivers to compress the old retaining
ring enough to slip the nut off. When pressed, he did
admit that it was not the easiest method. I asked what
that was and he said that now that new ones were
available, it was easiest just to put the nut in a
vise, and break off the old angle drive with a hammer.
After that it was a breeze. 200 miles on it already
and it works great! 

Sonny V.

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 05:44:45 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: More TAB nonsense

Rich - Since nobody else has chimed in on this question, I'll give 
it a shot.  When a bolt is "slathered with anti-seize compound", you 
can consider it a lubricated bolt.  That means that you will get 
more stretch on the bolt for the same amount of torque as compared 
to torqueing up a dry bolt.  A ballpark estimate for the difference 
in this case would be that the "effective torque" on the TAB could 
be as high as 90 ft-lbs, assuming that he torqued the lubed bolt to 
55 ft-lbs indicated on the wrench.  Many anti-sieze compounds don't 
have quite the lubricity as grease, so it may be a bit lower.  This 
estimate comes from charts in my aerospace design manual.  Using 
some of those icky engineering formulas, that 90 ft-lb torque would 
apply about 24,000 pound tensile load to the bolt.  In side-by-side 
tensile testing of the TOBY-TAB to the stock bolt, the stock bolt 
began to yield at about 22,000 pounds (I can send you the charts if 
you want them).  That means that your new bolt could be pretty close 
to yielding.  I won't go so far as to say that it is yielded, but 
you're definitely up there in range of the top of the curve.  The 
other concern in this case are the steel sleeves through the bushing 
and the trailing arm.  The compressive stresses on the edges of the 
sleeves are very high (lots of pounds, but very few square inches of 
area = high PSI).  I think that high compressive stresses on the 
sleeves are better than a loose joint caused by a yielded bolt, so I 
would back it off to about 45 ft-lbs to get the bolt down below it's 
yield point. I am using some conservatism in my numbers, so I think 
that would be fine.  Let me know if you have any questions about 
this.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> In response to Dave T's last post regarding proper TAB procedures,
> I'd like to say that
> 
> A) I made sure the mechanic knew to torque down with the full 
weight on the suspension. He did this correctly.
> B) Heat was only applied to the trailing arm when it was out of 
the vehicle. The bushing was not heated.
> C) The one thing he did that concerned me, was slather everything 
in anti-sieze.
> 
> How far off are the torque readings if you apply anti-sieze? How 
> concerned should I be?





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:38:21 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Pulley Nut?

If someone at some point had actually followed the manual and used 
Loctite when putting the nut back on, you could be looking at a snapped 
crank, believe it or not (I know someone who's done it).

Martin

kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>I tried to get one off today and it was stuck real good 
>Penetrating oil and patience. This car had been sitting so I have seen 
>stubborn Pulley nuts
>before.  You can lock the flywheel but if its really stuck you stand a chance 
>of breaking your wrench if its not bigger than 1/2 inch
>
>I have a 3/4 drive and could not break one of them.
>
>penetrating oil and patience seems to always work
>
>Ken
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 22:13:58 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: NOS Seat Covers

So please correct me if I'm wrong. If someone were to purchased some NOS
seat covers online, properly take care of them with proper hide care
products, they could end up having them for a long time without cracks?

Jon





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 15:25:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frozen suspension bolts

Heat is usually the best option but there are some drawbacks. You will
ruin any rubber nearby, there is the ever-present risk of fire, and
you CANNOT reuse any of the hardware if you are working on a
high-stress part or ANYTHING on the suspension. Only someone
experienced with an oxy-acetylene torch should attempt to use heat. In
all case you must get in and out fast with the torch and then get on
it quickly with a wrench. Preferably this is done before the use of
penetrating oil, it makes the job a lot more smokey and smelly and
NEVER near any fuel lines or other fuel system components. They have
to be removed first. Remember to use heat in a well ventilated area
(hard in the winter-time) and keep a fire extinghisher handy and
another person as a fire watch.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > While removing all the components of the frame, I have bolts 20, 33,
> > and 25 (section 5.3.0) all frozen in place. Is there any way to free
> > these without destroying them? I'm already spending a lot on a front
> > extension section so I wanted to spend as little extra as 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------