From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1886
Date: Monday, February 23, 2004 10:51 AM

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Frozen suspension bolts
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

3. Raffle Car Update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Manual Transmission Leaking
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 15:33:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

There are only a couple of options to remove the broken bolt AND
extractor. You can try drilling with a cobalt bit. You can remove the
part and replace it. You can remove the part and take it to a machine
shop where they can try to remove it in a milling machine (a kind of
extra-heavy duty drill press). Finally there is a process that you
weld a nut onto the broken bolt. It requires a stick welder and
special rods and a lot of experience. Do not try to relocate the hole.
If you are not capable of this level of machine work then remove the
head with the broken bolt in it and take it to a shop that rebuilds
cylinder heads. They do this kind of thing all the time. Do not try to
reassemble without this bolt, you will have a large air leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Based on his description, I think he's talking about one of the 3 
> bolts that hold the air cleaner on. Change "intake manifold" to "air 
> cleaner" and it makes more sense. 
> 
> jmlaux (whatever your name really is) is that what you mean? Is this 
> broken bolt on top of the manifold runner or into the head itself? 
> What were you taking apart when this broke? 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> -
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
> wrote:
> > The intake manifold actually screws into the cylinder head, not the 
> > block, so you could in theory replace the head. This is why you 
> must 
> > never trust screw extractors! You may get it out with a dremmel, 
> and 
> > then tapping and inserting a helicoil is the best long-term 
> solution. 
> > When drilling these out, use the long bolt that goes into the air 
> intake 
> > just above the water pump thermostat housing, inserted into the 
> other 
> > intake manifold mount on the same head. This gives you a really 
> useful 
> > reference for holding the drill strait
> > 





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 06:00:21 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Frozen suspension bolts

Dan - Buying new bolts is not that big of a deal here.  They are 
readily available.  Your rubber suspension bushings are toast 
(literally) and will require replacement.  First of all, you need to 
have all load off of the joints.  That means that the rear spring / 
shock should be removed, and the links just "floating free". Then, I 
would take a "big hoffing hammer" (right, Martin?) and drive the 
bolts out.  Provide support for the hub carrier if that's the end 
where the stuck bolts are.  The steel sleeves that used to be bonded 
into the bushings should bottom out on the inside washer of the 
frame attachment or hub carrier, and the bolts should eventually 
come out.  Then, you need to press out what's left of the bushings 
from the links, and press new ones in.  Also, the bolts and self-
locking nuts should be replaced with new items.  If you can remove 
the hub carrier with the two links still attached to it, a press 
will work to drive the bolts out.  More elegant, but requires a 
hydraulic press.  We have all the replacement parts for this 
available.  You might want to consider anti-seize / corrosion 
inhibiting compound when putting this back together.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> So today I tried to get the bolts free, and heres the deal... I 
used
> the heat on the rear hub carrier, and it released the bolts. NOW,
> whats rusted to the bolt is the center steel piece of the top link 
and
> bottom link. So now when I try to spin the bolt, it just spins the
> steel sleeve inside the rubber...Any ideas on this one or am I 
totally
> screwed here. Thanks all-Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 23:44:34 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle Car Update

Well this update is a lot quicker than I anticipated but we have reached 
another plateau
As of 11:20 PM tonight we reached the 1/3 mark needed for the minimum to 
raffle the car.  This is a lot quicker than I targeted so things are going well. 

I have not broken down where the ticket orders are coming from but they seem 
to be diverse.

The car is getting its final tune up for the parade and we should have more 
pics in a few weeks.

Thanks

and good luck 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 05:46:53 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Manual Transmission Leaking

Hello All!

I drove my DeLorean about 100 miles yesterday for the first time. I 
got the car about a month ago and it had no leaks form the engine or 
the transmission. Today I looked under the car and there were drops 
of transmission fluid like an outline of the trasmission on the 
driveway. I am assuming that I needs new seals . Does anyone know or 
have had experience doing this. I am guessing that the rear facia 
needs to be removed and engine and transmission pulled. Any help or 
tips? Should I try this or leave it to professionals? Any 
Professionals interested or ones you would recommend? Please help. 
Any input is helpful.

Adam Lee
VIN #1913




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