From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1902
Date: Sunday, March 07, 2004 10:47 AM

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Electrical question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Subject: Carbureted PRV
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com

3. Finally Getting My First D
From: "Alex" <alex_wolf_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. RHD conversion
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. later production deloreans
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. Re: Carbureted PRV
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

7. Re: Capping off injector ports
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. new member - and question about John Z. Delorean
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>

9. My fans are staying on when car is off
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: My fans are staying on when car is off
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

11. 3 areas of questions
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: RHD conversion
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. RE: My fans are staying on when car is off
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: RHD conversion
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

15. Pics Uploaded (B27A and B27F)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Starting problem
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

17. DMCH's performance engine..
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 22:46:40 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical question

Jon, The volt meter is usually about 1/2 volt low.
John Hervey





-----Original Message-----
From: jdub [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 11:14 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Electrical question


Does the voltmeter in the dash read the voltage directly across the battery?

Jon



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 23:54:09 EST
From: Dmc3360_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Subject: Carbureted PRV

There was a DeLorean Mid Atlantic member in PA who did install a carburetor 
on his DeLorean.  His name was Charles Muffley.  Charles passed away some years 
back and he enjoyed modifying his DeLorean and trying new things like 
installing a carburetor.  In fact it is the Charles Muffley Award that the DeLorean 
Mid Atlantic Club presents at each of Ken's shows in honor of Charles, to the 
most uniquely modified DeLorean in attendance.  Previous winners were Curtis 
and his incredible customized DeLorean in Cleveland, and Rich for his D Rex, 
hovercraft, and convertible in Memphis.  At any rate I did not have the privilege 
of knowing Charles as well as some other members but I believe our past 
president Aldo Buono or some of our other long time members could better tell of 
Charles, and his installing a carburetor on his DeLorean.  

Gary Gore
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:32:09 -0800 (PST)
   From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Carbureted PRV

Has anyone switched their fuel injected PRV to a carbureted PRV?

Does anyone know of the cost of a crate Carbureted version PRV engine? 
preferably the Vovlo B-28A version?

>From what I can tell through the DMCNews archives and some volvo engine 
searches is that the PRV B-27 (which had a carburetor) was installed on Volvo 260's 
from 1976 to 1978, and the engine had problems.  But in 1979 or maybe it was 
1980 (conflicting information from different websites) it appears they issued 
the B-28A PRV (carbureted as well), which solved the problems of the B-27.  
Just after that, the B-28F (fuel injected version, one used on Delorean) became 
standard.  

And yes, I'm aware of how superior the fuel injection is and how I'd be 
unable to smog it here in California.  Still, I'd be very interested in learning 
how difficult and costly the swap would be, and am hoping maybe someone has 
already done it.

Thanks,
Ben
VIN 4613


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 04:54:58 -0000
From: "Alex" <alex_wolf_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Finally Getting My First D

Well, not sure where to start. This is my first post on this forum. 
I am getting my first D as a present from my wife for my birthday. I 
am heading up to see it Sunday morning, to make sure everything is 
ok. It is a one owner car, and I am buying it from the original 
owner. It is a 5 speed 1981 #4608. I have always dreamed of getting 
one of these, and now is my chance. This car has had the engine 
replaced due to overheating, and it includes the new engine with it. 
Also, he replaced the leather with cloth (?????) and include the 
original leather. I want to redo it in leather pretty soon. I also 
will have an extra door, not sure which one though. I am not sure 
where to start as far as upgrades go, any ideas? Tips? Thanks for 
your ehlp and your welcome.

Alex




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 05:59:23 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: RHD conversion

Hi I have just purchased 10927 from States and is currently on it's 
way to me in Australia. To be able to drive it here i must convert 
it to right hand drive. I am a mechanic, and able (i think!) to do 
the conversion myself. I was just wondering if anybody has ever done 
one and if so any things i should know? Also could you tell me if my 
chasis number is 10927, does indicate the number of which it was 
built? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks, Nick




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 13:58:07 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: later production deloreans

iv just read a few replies on buying a delorean and [second 
generation].so my question is would it be the case that buying a 
later delorean [83] would not have to have the serious recalls need 
doing or are there still some recall issues to be resolved say that 
the car has had nothing done to it since being released from the 
factory,
my 83 has alluminum coolent resevour
it has the black steel bits attached to the anti roll bar on the 
crumple tube

thanks in advance,Simon




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:11:38 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Carbureted PRV

I also spoke to Charlie in Cincinatti about his conversion.  The Fish 
carberator was amazing simple and so was his installation. This most 
interesting point is that these carberartors had no off idle or 
acceleration hesitation and did not need an accelerator pump.  Not 
needed an accelerator pump would, of course,  automatically increase mpg.

Charlie said he easily got 30 mpg, which may be true based upon the 
original claims about the carberator. They also claimed better performance.

Various versions of this carb were manufactured in the 1950s, 1981-1996 
and currently in England.  There is a web siet that has some of the 
history. Here is the link.  

http://minnowfish.co.uk/carbs/carbs.htm

There are also books available. on this carb  and its interesting 
history involving the oil companies and car makers.

BOB






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 14:12:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Capping off injector ports

Easiest way to cap off the injector ports would be to replace
injectors with 3/8" or 10mm bolts in stock injector boots. Button or
socket head styles would be fairly unobtrusive.

Without increasing displacement or compression, performance isn't
going to change dramatically. More agressive camshafts help somewhat,
as do exhaust headers. Interestingly, larger diameter valves can
sometimes LOWER performance.

The biggest advantage to a proper carbureted manifold is ease of
maintenance. The PRV was not originally designed for the fuel
injection it ultimately inherited. In carbureted form, the ignition
distributor is totally exposed. Hose clamps in back of the water pump
are exposed. The heater core return nipple(s -- some engines have one
on each side, as does my B27F) are exposed. Of course there's nothing
to tangle with the spark plug boots. My little brother timed me
removing the intake manifold on my new A series engine -- 1:25
minutes, carburetor still attached. That's why I hope to some day
install it in a DeLo for comparison purposes.

Note that the B280 uses an intake manifold much more similar in size
and shape to the original carbureted ones.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I talked to Charlie several years ago at a DOA expo in Las Vegas. .... I can't remember how he
capped the
> injector ports.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 12:42:37 -0500
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: new member - and question about John Z. Delorean

Hey guys,

My name is Florian. Right now I live in Jackson, Michigan. I'm 16 years old and im here for one year high school. I'm originally from Germany and  I will go back by end of June/beginning of July 2004...

Is there anybody located here in Jackson, MI that ownes a DeLorean that could take me for a ride at that will show me the car in reality?

It's been my dream car for a while now and I really love to get one soon... Probably in a year or two...

My question now... Is John Z. Delorean still alive? Where does he live?

Florian

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:53:27 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: My fans are staying on when car is off

I don't know where to start looking for the cause for this problem. 

Sometimes when I turn my car off one or both fans stay on and do not 
go off until the batrtery is dead.  Usually it is just the passenger 
side cooling fan that stays on but both have been on as well.  I have 
the otterstat jumpered to keep the fans on when the car is running (I 
have a new one ordered.  This problem happens whether or not the 
otterstat is bypassed or not.  I turn the car to on and then off and 
the fans will go off.  

Thanks for any help.

Michael 
Vin#2944 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 16:40:25 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: My fans are staying on when car is off

You have a stuck fan relay or shut your cars A/C off before turning 
your cars ignition off. I had this same problem so the A/C goes off 
before i turn off the ignition.

Mark


On Saturday, March 6, 2004, at 01:53 PM, dmcorlando2003 wrote:

> I don't know where to start looking for the cause for this problem.
>
> Sometimes when I turn my car off one or both fans stay on and do not
> go off until the batrtery is dead.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 18:04:47 -0500
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 3 areas of questions

Dear List,

    I have an early vin with the old style multibend water pipe for the 
left port of the water pump. I would like to replace the  present rubber 
hose with part #108675 on the left and # 108676 on the right. What 
modifications must I make to #101943 and #105446? I assume they are the 
same diameter, correct? What is the length of #10131? What is the length 
of  #108678 from the bend to the end that goes into the long hose that 
that attaches to the water pump?
    I need the part number of the o ring that the idle speed brass air 
inlet pipe goes into at the lower air casting.
    My lambda counter reads 031, what mileage does that represent?

Thanks in advance,
Steve vin 1089
   




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 23:09:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RHD conversion

Hi Nick

We have had one of the Wooler-Hodec right handers in with us for several 
months for a large amount of work. We've see first hand quite how much 
work went into the conversion. So here goes:

Steering Rack. Custom made
Pedal Box, again, custom made to resemble the mirror of the 
left-handers, but narrower and with a different linkage on the pedals to 
place the brake master and clutch master where they fit
Brake master cylinder. Is _NOT_ in the middle. Some of the Wooler cars 
had a long attachment bar and the MC located in the front right hand 
corner behind the rad. The one we have at the moment has two remote 
brake servos and the MC directly on the pedal.
Because of the brake master, you have to move the AC accumulator to the 
left side of the car and attachments made to the hoses to be able to 
rotate the fittings by 180 degrees.
Custom floor plan under the bonnet to allow the spare wheel to be 
shifted to the left to allow space for the brake servo, mounted to the 
inside of the right front shock tower. This makes fuel pump access more 
difficult.
All the knee pads must be custom made (don't think the pass side one can 
be spun over - they have a slight curver to the lower edge), so too the 
dashboard which has to be cut up into 5 pieces and then recovered with 
original heat-shrink vinyl. The glovebox must now have a hole cut for it 
on the left and the original mount fot he light gets in the way. All 
knee pad and binnacle mounts must be made.
The hole for the steering column must be plugged on the left. Speedo 
cable must be extended from the left and you must find a home for the 
lambda counter box
The wiring loom must be spun over right to left EXCEPT for door pin 
switches.
The heater matrix must be turned around and mounted on the left, making 
new holes for the ac drain, and cutting a new vent in under the 
windscreen and filling in the old one. The mechanism for the vent flaps 
will be butt up against the back of the stereo and there'll be a yawning 
gap behind it.
Wipers have to be moved and mounted with new arms and a motor that 
rotates the other way (no it's not okay to plug it in backwards, you 
need the crank to move the other way)
Handbrake must be moved, and now the cables will get in the way of the 
battery.
The carpete are now wrong, with holes cut on the left for pedals, and 
rubber inserts for the driver's feet.
And after all this, your elbow will be constantly bruised by the 
ashtray, the pedals are offset to the right and reverse is a bugger to 
get into with one hand....

Martin
DMUK
www.delorean.co.uk


nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com wrote:

>Hi I have just purchased 10927 from States and is currently on it's 
>way to me in Australia. To be able to drive it here i must convert 
>it to right hand drive. I am a mechanic, and able (i think!) to do 
>the conversion myself. I was just wondering if anybody has ever done 
>one and if so any things i should know? Also could you tell me if my 
>chasis number is 10927, does indicate the number of which it was 
>built? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
>Thanks, Nick
>
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 17:27:31 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: My fans are staying on when car is off

Michael, Turn you AC on and off before you turn off the ignition. If the AC
clutch is engaged or activated or possible short the fans will stay on. Look
in that part of the circuit. Be sure to undo the otterstat.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcorlando2003 [mailto:SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com]
Subject: [DML] My fans are staying on when car is off

I don't know where to start looking for the cause for this problem.

Sometimes when I turn my car off one or both fans stay on and do not
go off until the batrtery is dead.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 17:12:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: RHD conversion

Hi Nick,
Welcome to the fold.I own #2883 here in Sydney.Where
in the country are you?As for the RHD conversion,this
is something that shouldn't be underestimated.Whilst I
am sure you are a good mechanic the conversion is
quite involved.To make the car registerable for the
road (in NSW anyway)it must be inspected by an
engineer and deemed road worthy and there is a hell of
alot of red tape involved.The conversion on my car was
done by an engineering firm who specialise in Porsche
RHD conversions.E-Mail offlist and I can give you a
more detailed rundown on whats required for the RHD
conversion and the name of the place I had mine done.
The chassis number 10927 indicates that your car is a
1982 model (I think).Production started at #500.It
should have a flat bonnet with no grooves or petrol
flap.

Andrew 
VIN 2883



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 01:48:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Pics Uploaded (B27A and B27F)

Just uploaded pics to #5939's photo album as follows:

(I thought Dave Swingle was going to purge the photo albums. Since I
cleaned #5939's out already, hopefully he'll leave it alone...)

B27A_1 -- Overall pic of the engine with LP carb attached (this engine
was destined for maritime use). A Weber gasoline carb will bolt right
up in its place.
B27A_2 -- Closeup of the single venturi intake manifold. This is a
single plane manifold. The carb spacer is multi-positionable (see pic
B27A_5). Notice how accessible the ignition distributor is.
B27A_3 -- Closeup of A series heads, never drilled for fuel injectors.
I like the cylinder numbers cast into the head (PRV tuneup for
dummies). Cylinder numbers are also cast into the valve covers.
B27A_4 -- Closeup of hose clamps behind the water pump, accessible
with the intake manifold in place. Of course removal is so fast and
easy, why bother reaching in there?
B27A_5 -- Underside of the intake manifold showing multi positionable
carb spacer. Notice also the water distribution pipe was never drilled
for various sensors.

B27F_1 -- B27 F series single piece upper air assembly. Compare this
to the nearly identical upper air assembly on my Renault Z7V.
B27F_2 -- Auxiliary air valve, used for fast idle before the adoption
of CIS. Note the CPR has no provision for full throttle enrichment (is
004 series, correct for B27F).
B27F_3 -- Access hole for a cam driven mechanical fuel pump. I have no
idea what this particular valve cover is doing on my F series engine!
Everything else on it is correct per Volvo factory literature, so I
can only assume that a previous owner swapped the original F series
cover with an A series for some reason (warped?). If/when I install
the above A series engine in a DeLo, I'll use this cover and a
mechanical fuel pump.

Note that although I've referred to my A series engine as a "B27", it
could well be a B28. There are no engine ID plates to tell. Valve
covers are interchangeable, so their cast numbers won't help me
either. B27 and B28 compression specs are the same, so I can't
determine with a compression test. If anyone knows some other way to
differentiate with the heads still in place, please let me know!

Bill Robertson
#5939


 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 00:34:12 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Starting problem

This evening my wife and I stopped at a store after about a ten mile drive.
After an hour of shopping, we returned to the car and I started it letting
it idle while she got in the passenger side and was closing the door.  The
engine stopped and would not start again.

The gas gauge registered just less than one-half.

The car is new to me and I am on the second tank of gas since its purchase.
The gauge may be inaccurate.

I put two gallons into the tank from two gas cans a tow truck furnished.

When I tried to start it, I got a couple of indications that it was about to
start, but, it did not.

Could I have a problem that it lost its prime?  Could the fuel pump be
having a problem filling lines that do not have gas?  Could I have flooded
it?

It has been easily starting whether hot or cold.

What can I do before having it towed to my mechanic?

Roland Smith
6667
Oakland, California





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 11:15:14 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DMCH's performance engine..

I was just wondering if anyone on this list had the performance 
engine from DMC Houston, or knows enough about it to answer my 
general questions. 

Does the upgraded engine get about the same gas mileage as the stock 
engine, is it worse or better perhaps?

Does it idle rougher, smoother, any difference from stock?

Also I am looking for opinions about using the upgraded engine with 
an automatic transmission. Does anyone out there have the performance 
engine with an automatic? 

Thanks!

adam




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------