From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1904
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 6:40 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Filled Front Antenna hole....
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: vac advance question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Hotstart (new accumulator and pump)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Dash Clock
From: Thomas Mc Auley <mcauleydmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. Re: Fw: Starting problem
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

7. RE: vac advance question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: Carbureted PRV
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: vac advance question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: DMCH's performance engine..
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

12. HOWTO's # 7 and 14 complete
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Frame Numbers
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>

14. Re: Covering cars on open trailers
From: "stainless_delorean" <stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Headliner Replace..Easy??Hard??
From: "Charlie" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. question about the orientation of the air inlet
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>

17. Re: vac advance question
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Replace/convert interior
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

19. JZD's textbooks?
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

20. Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. DeLorean Car Show 100 and counting
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

22. I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

23. FHM
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Re: DMCH's performance engine..
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: new member - and question about John Z. Delorean
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 14:50:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

These symptoms indicate a vacuum leak on the side running lean.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> This is a unique problem.  When I start my car now, the engine will
run half lean and half rich.  The driver's side (4,5,6) all run rich
(spark plugs are charcoal colored), and the passenger side (1,2,3) are
lean.  The mixture screw has been adjusted properly, and these
sparkplugs have been replaced recently.  I assume the fuel distributor
sends fuel out equally, so I'm pretty sure the problem doesn't lie
there.  Could it be dirty/faulty fuel injectors?  I'm kind of lost on
this one.  
>



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 14:53:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Filled Front Antenna hole....

Try going over the area with 80# paper. Go lightly or you will make a
"hole". Be sure to "blend" ie don't just work on the spot where the
hole was. You may have to do the whole panel. finish with a blending pad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> My car has evidence of having had the front antenna hole "filled", 
> but it was never properly blended, so from certain angles the 
> difference between its surface finish compared to the rest of the 
> fender can be clearly seen.  I have run my hand over the area and it 
> is completely smooth, just not "matching" with the rest of the 
> fender.  I would appreciate specific suggestions and equipment to 
> blend this in so that it essentially becomes invisible.  Thanks all!




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 14:56:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: vac advance question

An inoperative vacuum advance will cause an increase in fuel
consumption, knocking under a heavy load (accelerating) and a loss of
power. Under severe conditions it can contribute to overheating. The
motor will run better with it hooked up and working. Check that the
mechanical advance is working and check the initial (base) timing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Since my car is in pieces and I am going over everything-I find that
> my vacuum advance on my distributor is inoperative. But the car ran
> fine and even drove fine with this inoperative, so what are the
> effects from having a bad vacuum advance? Thanks




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 15:03:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hotstart (new accumulator and pump)

The things that hold up the rest pressure are the fuel pump check
valve, the accumulater, and the pressure regulator on the fuel
distributer. Since you did the check valve and the accumulator I would
clean the pressure regulator. Make sure there are no leaks at any
connection. 
 Since you say your rest pressure is holding I am guessing that your
pick-up coil in the distributer may be bad. The next time you have a
hard hot start (and you say the plug swap doesn't help) check for
spark. You can also check and clean the wires on the ballsat resistors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> I was having a hot start problem, the accumulator was known to be
bad so it was replaced. The hotstart persisted so the check valve on
the pump was also replaced. I still have a hot start issue and dont
want to guess. No matter how long I crank, it wont start, it has to
cool for about 2 hours. Doing a plug swap does not allow it to start,
and did not allow it to start since I've had the problem. It should be
noted, 




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 15:26:29 +0000 (GMT)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <mcauleydmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dash Clock

I have a few of the dash clocks that have never been used. I'll check them out to see if they work.

Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:Does anyone have a working clock for the console?

Mine works everyonce in a while, I mean it keeps time all the time
but the back lighting seems to work when it wants too.
Has anyone else ever had this problem?

If you have a nice working clock, or know of some sort of a
replacement let me know, thanks!
- Videobob



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:55 -0500
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Starting problem

Sounds like the fuel accumulator... the infamous hot start problem.

the next time it happens:

remove the grey plug from the Control Pressure Regulator and the blue plug from
the cold start valve. Plug the red one in to the blue connector and leave the
blue one unplugged. Start the car, immediately remove the red plug from the blue
connector and replace both the red and the blue plugs. Now it will run fine. Go
get your fuel accumulator replaced.

for details on what this does... http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/hotstart.htm

Regards,

Michael


Quoting Roland Smith <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>:

> Additional developments to my email.
> 
> This morning I went to the store where I parked the car and it started right
> up.
> 
> I filled the gas tank and it took only 6.5 gallons which seems to support
> the one-half full indication on the gas gauge.
> 
> There are two elements to what occurred.  First, the engine sitting at idle
> just died without any warning.  It was a now you hear it-now you don't
> event.
> 



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:53:51 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: vac advance question

If it ran fine and your sure it wasn't working. Then it should run better.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: TalksToGod [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 12:10 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] vac advance question


Since my car is in pieces and I am going over everything-I find that
my vacuum advance on my distributor is inoperative. But the car ran
fine and even drove fine with this inoperative, so what are the
effects from having a bad vacuum advance? Thanks



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 08:54:33 -0800 (PST)
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Carbureted PRV

Oh no, the current system is great! I have had no problems with my fuel injection system and haven't had any problems in passing fuel emissions (and I live in the dreaded California!).  
 
Still, I was very interested to learn just how difficult the conversion would be.  More particularly to see if anyone had tried to put one of those fuel saving carburetors that are supposed to do the same thing Pogue's carburetor did.  I guess we know, although it was very unfortunate to hear Mr. Charlie Muffley had passed on; I would have very much enjoyed talking to him about it. 
 
Thanks all for your help and responses! 
Ben
VIN 04613

John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
Ben, I don't know why you want to go to a carbureted system. The Bosch K
jetronic system was started on the Porsche in 1973 and used up till I think
about 86. It was also used on Mercedes, Volvo and many more.
Just an FYI.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: benjamin strand [mailto:benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Subject: [DML] Carbureted PRV


Has anyone switched their fuel injected PRV to a carbureted PRV?





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:18:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

Sounds to me like a common vacuum leak at the driver's intake rail
(crosses over to passenger cylinders), especially if plugs 1-3 all
look the same. I'm assuming they are either clean & white, or even
worse are melting.

Vacuum leaks cause a lean mixture (and severely elevate combustion
temperatures). People compensate at idle by over enriching. As the
throttle plates open, this then translates into a too rich mixture,
which is what massacres fuel economy -- one of the symptoms of a
vacuum leak is terrible MPG. That would account for the condition of
plugs 4-6 (they should be caramel colored, not charcoal).

Another symptom of a vacuum leak is erratic idling. The engine will
nearly die, then catch itself and rev back up. Lambda and CIS add
their own variables to this possibility, but can easily be disabled to
isolate the problem.

I've re-uploaded a pic of my spark plugs to #5939's photo album so you
can see what a vacuum leak in my HVAC supply line (yet another hard
plastic DeLo line. Warning -- is every bit as worth replacing as the
clutch line) did during a several hundred mile road trip. Note that
plugs 4-6 are all damaged equally. I'm just lucky I didn't warp a
valve or melt a piston! HVAC is supplied from passenger intake rail BTW.

Stock DeLo has a vacuum nipple in the driver's intake rail that feeds
spark advance and full throttle CPR enrichment. Since neither is
needed at idle, unplug that line and cap with a vacuum plug. Test the
loose hose with a hand vacuum pump to ensure those lines and
diaphragms are still intact. Then start the engine and test the nipple
threads, the plug right below it, U pipe mating surfaces, and the plug
by the A/C compressor with an aerosol of some sort. If any are
leaking, the engine will suck it in and bog down. Also check the
throttle plate shaft where it rotates in the aluminum housing and the
middle brass balancing screw.

Because your plugs are behaving differently on either side of the
engine, I wouldn't worry about the idle speed motor, charcoal
canister, or anything else supplied by the cold start tube (is
centrally located). 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> This is a unique problem.  When I start my car now, the engine will
run half lean and half rich.  The driver's side (4,5,6) all run rich
(spark plugs are charcoal colored), and the passenger side (1,2,3) are
lean.  The mixture screw has been adjusted properly, and these
sparkplugs have been replaced recently.  I assume the fuel distributor
sends fuel out equally, so I'm pretty sure the problem doesn't lie
there.  Could it be dirty/faulty fuel injectors?  I'm kind of lost on
this one.  
>  
>    The car does something else unusual.  The engine will idle fine
when cold, but as the car warms up, the idling becomes very erradic. 
It will "jump" around when in drive or park.  Don't get this confused
with high idling or idling up and down in a cyclic motion - this
idling goes fast then slow and repeats this pattern very rapidly. 
It's very uneven and just all over the place.  It almost sounds like
the car will literally die when sitting at a stop light or a traffic
light.  When this idling problem occurs, I get alot of "spitting and
sputtering" when going from a dead stop to acceleration.  After it
spits and sputters for about 3 seconds, I get a sudden burst of
acceleration (almost as if one of the cylinders isn't opening, and
then WHAM! it opens all of a sudden)  The car will do this generally
around the time the cooling fans on for the first time, and then after
about 10 minutes the idling is perfectly normal.  When the idling is
normal, there is no more "spit and sputter"
>  either; the car runs completely normally.  Any ideas anyone?




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:25:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: vac advance question

Next to none if the centrifugal advance is working properly. Perhaps a
slight bog down if you suddenly rev the engine.

Ensure the diaphragm isn't leaking, otherwise you'll have a vacuum leak.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Since my car is in pieces and I am going over everything-I find that
> my vacuum advance on my distributor is inoperative. But the car ran
> fine and even drove fine with this inoperative, so what are the
> effects from having a bad vacuum advance? Thanks




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:39:39 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH's performance engine..

>From what I understand, Don at Delorean Motor Center has a few high-
performance torque converters for the auto tranny.  I don't know if 
one would be nessecary with DMCH's engine, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Johnny
5518


Also I am looking for opinions about using the upgraded engine with 
an automatic transmission. Does anyone out there have the performance 
engine with an automatic? 
 
Thanks!
 
adam




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:04:14 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: HOWTO's # 7 and 14 complete

Hello all,

    After long delay, Im pleased to announce the
completion of the fourteenth Delorean HOWTO in the
series as well as the revamping and completion of
number seven.

Howto number fourteen discussed the complete removal
of the venturi from the engine, along with the w-pipe.

Howto number seven deals with the maintenance of the
venturi air fuel unit.

Both Howto's compliment each other in part of the
search for vaccum leaks as well as good general
maintenance practices.

There are several more HOWTO's down the pipe nearing
completion.

Id appreciate any feedback on these specific HOWTO's
and any other item on the page for that matter.

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

thanx,

Jordan 
11613



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 13:37:12 -0500
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>
Subject: RE: Frame Numbers

 
I had my rear bumper off and my number did not match the VIN either
 
There is also another embossed number on the driver side below the AC
compressor
 
Nothing matches. I was worried as well
 
As to answer your question. I don't know .. I would assume that they SHOULD
match
 
But maybe our cars were made by the same employee that drew the magic market
elephant on somebodies body panels inside! :-)
 
Ken
005541
www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/> 
 
 
>I disassembled the rear fascia from my car last evening and found number
written in black marker on the rear >crossmember of the frame. 
>The numbers were 3581. My vin is 3601. Should they match? 
>Thanks,
>Stephen
>Vin 3601


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 19:14:20 -0000
From: "stainless_delorean" <stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Covering cars on open trailers

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Has anyone had good experiences with any particular
> brands of car covers that are substantial enough to
> use while on a open trailer? I was always afraid that
> the cover would break loose or flap enough to scratch
> the finish. What about it?
> Stve Trimble #3121


Try this:
A few places now sell rolls of that white plastic that is applied to 
cars when they are transported on open carriers when new.  Why not 
apply that to your car for transport?






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 20:14:11 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Headliner Replace..Easy??Hard??

Hey, List.

I just came to california today to see a car im cosidering 
purchasing.  And the headliner (The section on the door) Is not in 
that bad condition but sagging - bubbling in some areas.. And in 
Arizona im shure it will be worse in time with the dreaded heat.  My 
queston is... Are these easy to fix for a novice like me, to remove 
and apply? and is the matching material easy to find and match?? 
(Int. Is gray)   I just wanted to ask, but i think i will probably 
leave it up to the Upholstery shop in Tempe,AZ. Or Stieger down the 
way..  But I just wanted your ideas..On the do it yourself way..:)

Thanx

Charlie





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:26:29 -0500
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>
Subject: question about the orientation of the air inlet

I am putting back together my air intake system. and am wondering
 
The 2 round brass plates with small spring loaded vents that are in the air
intake
 
Which way should the spring loaded vents face?
 
Up or down?
 
I have put a picture of the piece here
 
http://www.odoc.ca/images/MVC-045F.JPG
 
Please let me know
 
Thanks
Kenneth
005541
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 22:07:35 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: vac advance question

Are you sure it is inoperative? Because, if it is inoperative, the 
engine would not run "fine". Poor initial engine response and 
acceleration and high exhaust temps are a couple of symptoms.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Since my car is in pieces and I am going over everything-I find 
that
> my vacuum advance on my distributor is inoperative. But the car ran
> fine and even drove fine with this inoperative, so what are the
> effects from having a bad vacuum advance? Thanks




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 22:18:55 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Replace/convert interior

Alex,

You likely won't be able to find many of the interior panels 
available (atleast, not cheaply) in black.  My suggestion would be 
to remove them and have them recovered in a matching vinyl, or 
recover them yourself.  I have done this and it turned out great.  
It also adds a fresh smell to the car which is much more desireable 
than the "old car smell" that my D had previously.  It's not 
difficult, but if you have never done something like this before, I 
would practice on something else first, like maybe an old chair, 
etc.  It's generally a messy job dealing with the contact cement, 
but well worth the results in my opinion.  Additionally, when you 
remove the panels, you will be able to use a heat gun/hair dryer to 
straighten out any of the plastic if it is warped.

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex" <alex_wolf_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Is it hard to replace the interior panels? The D I just bought has 
> some warp from the sun, and needs a new dash, and some of the 
other 
> panels replaced. Is this something that can be done without going 
to 
> Houston? Also, is it hard to convert the interior to black? I 
prefer 
> the look, but it seems like the parts are harder to come by. Any 
> info is appreciated!
> 
> Alex




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:46:28 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: JZD's textbooks?

Interesting piece of auto history if true.. http://tinyurl.com/36znx


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 22:35:47 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

Sounds like something is sticking or not working until a higher temp 
causes it to work. So, I would be suspect of any engine management 
sensor that is temperature activated and any related vacuum lines. 
Your case is interesting because many idle problems are after warm-
up, not at a cold start.

I would be careful to check that the air sensor plate is moving 
freely when cold. If the piston the sensor operates is sticking it 
will cause weird and sudden engine surges. Sometimes Marvel Mystery 
Oil in the fuel can help cure this. The idle motor may also be 
sticking, moving too slow or limited in range when cold.

Check and clean all electrical connections too, especially the 
connections on the frequency valve and on the fuel pressure 
regulator.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> This is a unique problem.  When I start my car now, the engine 
will run half lean and half rich.  The driver's side (4,5,6) all run 
rich (spark plugs are charcoal colored), and the passenger side 
(1,2,3) are lean.  The mixture screw has 



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 20:15:21 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show 100 and counting

Well the show is a lot closer than you may want to believe.
We are 100 days away from the Raffle and actually 98 days from The begining 
of the show.

Both registrations and especially the raffle car are doing well 

If you have been putting off registering for the show here is a reminder for 
you 

and again Thanks for the support

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 03:16:06 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

I like to read the DML a lot.  So much, in fact, that I came across 
the fact that the three brass screws should be all seated closed.  I 
walked out to the garage, said "Hey, mine aren't closed!" and I 
closed them.  Now my car starts, but stalls as soon as the rpms 
begin to fall down (to where it previously would begin idling 
normally).  Where do I begin?  I know the previous owner had 
replaced the distributor impulse coil about 5 years ago.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 19:52:32 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: FHM

Just got the new issue of FHM, with "Meadow Soprano" on the cover,
(I already have a blister)
And I was pleased to see Rich's "D-REX" on page 54 with a quick little
interview.
There is a another mention on page 94 too.

Check it out.
If you don't have a subscription to FHM, you should.
It F-ing rocks.
- VB
VIN#5278




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 23:51:48 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's performance engine..

Marc -

A quick question...do you ever have anything nice to say about DMCH?

Sonny V.

PS - As far as what you think about the exhaust being too loud...you 
know what they say...if it's too loud, you're too old. :-)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
 
> As far as opinions on the Houston setup, I do not own
> one but having seen them demonstrated at past events I
> think they are WAY too loud.




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 03:49:33 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: new member - and question about John Z. Delorean

Hey Florian,
   Yes Mr. DeLorean is still alive and he lives somewhere up in New 
Jersey, where exactly, I'm not sure. I know how you feel about 
DeLoreans for I am 18 and have been in love with the cars for going 
on five years and I still don't have one yet. I have gotten to set in 
one at DMCH. Mr. Espey was kind enough to let me set in one in their 
showroom, man was I in heaven:-)
 Josh

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Hey guys,
> 
> My name is Florian. Right now I live in Jackson, Michigan. I'm 16 
years old and im here for one year high school. I'm originally from 
Germany and  I will go back by end of June/beginning of July 2004...
> 
> Is there anybody located here in Jackson, MI that ownes a DeLorean 
that could take me for a ride at that will show me the car in reality?
> 
> It's been my dream car for a while now and I really love to get one 
soon... Probably in a year or two...
> 
> My question now... Is John Z. Delorean still alive? Where does he 
live?
> 
> Florian
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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