From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1905
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 10:50 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. crappy acceleration
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. crappy acceleration
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Sticking Idle
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. RE: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Fw: Starting problem
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

8. R&R of front license plate.
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

9. Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: vac advance question
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. RE: Re: smoke
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Headliner Replacement
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Sticking Idle
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

15. Re: Sticking Idle
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

16. Re: taillights (was smoke)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. Re: DMCH's performance engine..
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: crappy acceleration
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: crappy acceleration
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

20. Re: R&R of front license plate.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Frame Numbers
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Headliner Replace..Easy??Hard??
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: R&R of front license plate.
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

24. RE: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. RE: R&R of front license plate.
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 03:51:30 -0000
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: crappy acceleration

i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then when 
i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to 
go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and 
everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing red 
on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 03:55:28 -0000
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: crappy acceleration

i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then when 
i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to 
go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and 
everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing red 
on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:53:26 -0800 (PST)
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Sticking Idle

My D idles fine around 900 RPM's but as soon as I give it gas and allow it to come back to idle sometimes, not all the time it will remain _at_dml_ 1500 RPM.  The problem is fixed with a quick burst of GAS.  I put this post up a few weeks ago and I got back, something might be binding.  However, everything seems okay except my accel. cable does seems to be stretched.  Could that be the cause?  Any suggestions would greatly help because I'm going to really get into to it this week.


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:56:16 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

Matt,
The screws were allowing air into the air flow metering body and was most
likely compensating for the micro switch that turns on the idle speed motor.
Make sure the switch is clicking on and off and it's good. If it looks like
it's working then the idle speed motor isn't opening up. Here is picture of
what I mean. The motor or switch either could be bad. If you have a DMM you
can check the voltage going to the motor to make sure.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/idlespeed-motor-open.jpg
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed


> I like to read the DML a lot.  So much, in fact, that I came across
> the fact that the three brass screws should be all seated closed.  I
> walked out to the garage, said "Hey, mine aren't closed!" and I
> closed them.  Now my car starts, but stalls as soon as the rpms
> begin to fall down (to where it previously would begin idling
> normally).  Where do I begin?  I know the previous owner had
> replaced the distributor impulse coil about 5 years ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:00:03 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

Harold,
>From what I understand from talking to Jeremiah is that 3 plugs on one side
are burning rich and 3 plugs on the other side are burning lean. This has
really got me thinking as to what could cause that.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine running half rich half lean.


> Sounds like something is sticking or not working until a higher temp
> causes it to work. So, I would be suspect of any engine management
> sensor that is temperature activated and any related vacuum lines.
> Your case is interesting because many idle problems are after warm-
> up, not at a cold start.
>
> I would be careful to check that the air sensor plate is moving
> freely when cold. If the piston the sensor operates is sticking it
> will cause weird and sudden engine surges. Sometimes Marvel Mystery
> Oil in the fuel can help cure this. The idle motor may also be
> sticking, moving too slow or limited in range when cold.
>
> Check and clean all electrical connections too, especially the
> connections on the frequency valve and on the fuel pressure
> regulator.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>> This is a unique problem.  When I start my car now, the engine
>> will run half lean and half rich.  The driver's side (4,5,6) all run
>> rich (spark plugs are charcoal colored), and the passenger side
>> (1,2,3) are lean.  The mixture screw has



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 04:07:30 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Stereo System upgrade.

Hey everybody.
Im installing a new cd player in my 81.
I have a couple questions.
where do I hook up the ground wire, and where do I hook up the illumination 
wire?
Anybody have any ideas? Thanks

  Dustin
vin#006746

[Irrelevant quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:20:30 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Starting problem

My thank you to all who have responded to my starting problem.  The car is
with my mechanic and I will give him printouts of the emails received.

On the fateful Saturday night my wife and I went to a movie, dinner, the
main Oakland Post Office and then to the store where the car left us
stranded.

It was fun to have people give us the thumbs up sign (distinguished from
that other sign with one finger) and come up to engage us in conversation
when we parked the car.  Everyone praised the car.

While it is significantly different than driving my C5 Corvette, it is
equally as much fun.  I will enjoy this car, especially with the information
and help I receive here.

Best regards,
Roland Smith
6667
Oakland, California
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 10:22 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Fw: Starting problem


> Roland, Enrich the 02 setting just a little ( 1/8th turn ) so the plunger
in
> the fuel distributor will rise just a little when you crank. That feeds
the
> injectors.Look for any possible vacuum leaks.
> John Hervey

[Long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:26:22 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: R&R of front license plate.

Now that I have registered my DeLorean purchased at a lien sale, I have new
license plates to install.

The rear license plate was easy and completed.

The front license plate is mounted without screws.  Are their nuts on the
inside of the front bumper?  If so, is there an easy way to get to them?  If
not, how does one remove the fasteners that look more like rivets than
screws?  Are these screws that have been sanded or filed to look like
rivets?

Best regards,
Roland Smith
6667
Oakland, California





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 05:57:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

Sounds like your CIS is dying, which I suspect today is a more common
problem than many enthusiasts wish to admit. When new those screws
were indeed unnecessary. But as the system becomes twitchy or stops
working altogether, they are one of only two other means to idle the
engine:
-Crack open the throttle plates
-Use the manual idle circuit (brass screws)

I'm running just fine with CIS removed altogether (ECU isn't even in
the vehicle!). This is the procedure to set the manual circuit:
http://f5.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UE9NQLZN6tRnXorQ2wTxyVi1rb9K7m4lZqzr4Nmhn8MZcXrN2jD9P3qO_5tyUOIORKGHzm_ec0xBjkD4GhC5f_DRd2kH2-8XLW4/Idle.txt

Set your brass screws so the engine will idle without CIS. Then
reactivate the system. The primary inlet screw (closest to the air
sensor plate) can be opened as necessary to augment automatic idle.
Note that since driver and passenger balancing screws are totally
dependent on the inlet screw, you never need worry about them again. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
wrote:
> I like to read the DML a lot.  So much, in fact, that I came across 
> the fact that the three brass screws should be all seated closed.  I 
> walked out to the garage, said "Hey, mine aren't closed!" and I 
> closed them.  Now my car starts, but stalls as soon as the rpms 
> begin to fall down (to where it previously would begin idling 
> normally).  Where do I begin?  I know the previous owner had 
> replaced the distributor impulse coil about 5 years ago.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 06:41:27 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: vac advance question

If I apply a vacuum to the hose attached to the advance, the unit
should work, mine just hisses with free flowing air and nothing moves,
so this means I have a vacuum leak and bad unit. The engine wouldn't
perform well when I first started it and drove for the first 5
minutes, but then it was fine after. The idle speed would vary faster
and slower up and down for the first 5 minutes too which I thought was
odd, also the idle speed is quite high, around 1000. Is this the
effects of my bad leaking advance? Other than that I had no
overheating problems, acceleration or knocking problems. Perhaps this
just went bad before I started the work on it hence no other symptoms.
Thanks -Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:42:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: smoke

Sorry for the late reply, I got the car back, appernetly what happen was nothing to do with the oil. One of the pullys on the drive belt locked up. The belt then was being pulled threw and torn up by the other pulls. I had them all replaced along with the belts. So anyway we got that fixed. But I screwed something up while replacing the lights in the tail of the car. If I turn the lights on I may have to hit the rear ligts to get them to work. I replaced all the bulbs, not sure what I did.
 
 
Thanks,
Darryl
5898


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:32:48 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

Someone has opened the brass screws up to compensate for a problem with 
the idlespeed system. That said, the brass screws are there to be used 
in the Renault manual, even with the idlespeed system, to balance the 
banks and adjust the "zero" point of the idlespeed system.

Martin

supermattthehero wrote:

>I like to read the DML a lot.  So much, in fact, that I came across 
>the fact that the three brass screws should be all seated closed.  I 
>walked out to the garage, said "Hey, mine aren't closed!" and I 
>closed them.  Now my car starts, but stalls as soon as the rpms 
>begin to fall down (to where it previously would begin idling 
>normally).  Where do I begin?  I know the previous owner had 
>replaced the distributor impulse coil about 5 years ago.  
>
>thanks,
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>  
>





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:58:27 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Headliner Replacement

I was going to do the headliner replacement all by myself.  This is my 
experience.

1) Headliner material ~$40
2) Spray glue ~10

I bought the material and it was folded and rolled up in its box.  Unrolling 
it reveled creases.  I called the company and they said, "Just put it in a 
clothes dryer for a few minutes."  The result More creases.  

Took my 4 panels to a local auto interior rebuilder.  They removed the old 
and replaced with new for $100. (They had to get a new roll of material and they 
gave me the left over portion.)

I reinstalled them and the look great.

Returned the liner and glue and got my 50 back.

My conclusion.  It's not worth the hassle to reline them if you can find a 
reasonable place to do it for you.


Dave & 6530

"Just Say NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"®


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 08:59:53 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Sticking Idle

I have seen this issue on another delorean. With the engine off, 
everything seems fine, and the idle switch is hit. But with the engine 
running, it manages not to hit the idle switch until the gas peddle is 
tapped. This may be due to vacuum. Make sure that when it is idling 
high, that the idle switch is pressed, if it is not, then the linkage 
and/or set screw at the top of the arm may need adjustment.

Samuel

john podlewski wrote:

>My D idles fine around 900 RPM's but as soon as I give it gas and allow it to come back to idle sometimes, not all the time it will remain _at_dml_ 1500 RPM.  The problem is fixed with a quick burst of GAS.  I put this post up a few weeks ago and I got back, something might be binding.  However, everything seems okay except my accel. cable does seems to be stretched.  Could that be the cause?  Any suggestions would greatly help because I'm going to really get into to it this week.<



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 15:35:45 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Sticking Idle

The microswitch is not being pushed correctly.
It can be set very easy.
Maybe some drops of oil wouldn't hurt, too.


> My D idles fine around 900 RPM's but as soon as I give it gas and allow it
> to come back to idle sometimes, not all the time it will remain _at_dml_ 1500
> RPM.





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 14:35:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: taillights (was smoke)


Either do this:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tailights.htm

or order up a set of Grady's new HD taillight circuit boards. The 
orignal boards are nothing special and are open to water and crid 
that accumulates over the years. Many of them are toast by now. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
---But I screwed something up while replacing the lights in the tail 
of the car. If I turn the lights on I may have to hit the rear ligts 
to get them to work. I replaced all the bulbs, not sure what I did.
>  
> Thanks,
> Darryl





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:06:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH's performance engine..

Changing the stall speed on the torque converter won't get you much so
the only thing that can be done to the converter to make it a "heavy
duty" unit is to replace a plastic thrust washer, which is an
origional piece, with a brass one. Your converter can be rebuilt or
you can trade it in and get another. The converter in the Delorean
also is used in a motorhome application. This is a really good
question for DMCH though!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> From what I understand, Don at Delorean Motor Center has a few high-
> performance torque converters for the auto tranny.  I don't know if 
> one would be nessecary with DMCH's engine, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> Also I am looking for opinions about using the upgraded engine with 
> an automatic transmission. Does anyone out there have the performance 
> engine with an automatic? 
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> adam




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:18:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: crappy acceleration

It is running WAY too rich. There are a lot of things that can cause
this from  misfiring spark plugs to bad wires to an out of adjustment
mixture screw, or dirty injectors. I would start with a full tune-up
and replace everything if you don't know how old any of the parts are.
Get the motor on an analyzer and try leaning out the mixture screw. It
is even possible the cold start valve is leaking.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then when 
> i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to 
> go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and 
> everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing red 
> on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:13:22 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: crappy acceleration

Holy crap shipmate!

Well, I first would have suggested vacuum leaks (and I still might) 
but it sounds to me like your catalytic converter is clogged. I'll 
bet it glows red too, or that you don't feel much out of the exhaust 
pipes.

This has happened to a few people on the list. Check it out. If 
that's not it, you might be running waaaayy too lean, combined with 
vacuum leaks. (Sounds wierd, I know).

Let us know how it turns out.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then 
when 
> i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to 
> go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and 
> everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing 
red 
> on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:30:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: R&R of front license plate.

You have 2 choices to mount the front license plate. The OEM bracket
requires drilling holes in the front facia to mount it. The other
"better" choice is to buy a S/S bracket that all the venders sell that
uses existing screws in front of the air inlets. Not all states
require a front plate but for those that do you need that bracket!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Now that I have registered my DeLorean purchased at a lien sale, I
have new
> license plates to install.
> 
> The rear license plate was easy and completed.
> 
> The front license plate is mounted without screws.  Are their nuts
on the
> inside of the front bumper?  If so, is there an easy way to get to
them?  If
> not, how does one remove the fasteners that look more like rivets than
> screws?  Are these screws that have been sanded or filed to look like
> rivets?
> 
> Best regards,
> Roland Smith
> 6667
> Oakland, California




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:13:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Numbers

I cannot speak to the magic marker #'s, they can mean anything. The
frame # on the embossed plate on the driver's side rear will not
correspond directly to a vin #. They seem to have been used only for
the frame inventory and the only correlation to the vin # is a card
file I saw in Columbus, Ohio at the wharehouse tour. According to Leif
Montin (former parts manager of DMC and at the time employed by DMCH)
it was only for the early cars and was not kept up. James Espey said
at some point in the future it may be made available.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <ken_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>  
> I had my rear bumper off and my number did not match the VIN either
>  
> There is also another embossed number on the driver side below the AC





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:18:22 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Headliner Replace..Easy??Hard??

I have never done auto upholstery work in my life, but my headliners 
were totally toasted. Disintigrated.

I purchased the exact match material from JC Whitney and a can of 3M 
Super 77 spray adhesive and did all the sections myself. They came 
out great!

I can send you photos and part numbers if you want to do it. I could 
have farmed it out, but this is a restoration job and I wanted to do 
it myself.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charlie" <charlie_az_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hey, List.
> 
> I just came to california today to see a car im cosidering 
> purchasing.  And the headliner (The section on the door) Is not in 
> that bad condition but sagging - bubbling in some areas.. And in 
> Arizona im shure it will be worse in time with the dreaded heat.  
My 
> queston is... Are these easy to fix for a novice like me, to remove 
> and apply? and is the matching material easy to find and match?? 
> (Int. Is gray)   I just wanted to ask, but i think i will probably 
> leave it up to the Upholstery shop in Tempe,AZ. Or Stieger down the 
> way..  But I just wanted your ideas..On the do it yourself way..:)
> 
> Thanx
> 
> Charlie




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:26:07 -0500
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: R&R of front license plate.

Call PJ Grady and buy the front license plate holder. It takes 5 minutes to install. Even though you can not see the holder once it is on the car it is stainless and looks stock. See if he will throw in the black plastic border that has his dealership name on it. 

Mike C
2109



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:27:03 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Stereo System upgrade.

If it isn't too late, I mean if you haven't cut up your harness yet, you 
need to get one of my wire harness adapters. It will allow you to plug into 
the existing wire harness, then tap out to your radio and it comes with an 
instruction sheet to explain what all of the connections are.
Check out http://www.dfwdmc.com and go to store/parts.
- Videobob
VIN#5278


>From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
>Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 04:07:30 +0000
>
>Hey everybody.
>Im installing a new cd player in my 81.
>I have a couple questions.
>where do I hook up the ground wire, and where do I hook up the illumination
>wire?
>Anybody have any ideas? Thanks
>
>   Dustin
>vin#006746
>
>[Irrelevant quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:30:26 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: R&R of front license plate.

You would need to buy a licsence plate frame holder from DMCH or 
someone.....
However, I don;t have one and never have, and the cops have never hassled me 
over it.
They usually let sports cars get away with that sort of stuff unless they 
are real jerks.
Just keep the plate with you and if they hassle you, toss it on the dash 
until they spilt.

Of course if you really want an ugly licsence plate in the front of your car 
blocking flow
into your air screen that is you biz.... and of course the law.
- VB


>From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] R&R of front license plate.
>Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:26:22 -0800
>
>Now that I have registered my DeLorean purchased at a lien sale, I have new
>license plates to install.
>
>The rear license plate was easy and completed.
>
>The front license plate is mounted without screws.  Are their nuts on the
>inside of the front bumper?  If so, is there an easy way to get to them?  
>If
>not, how does one remove the fasteners that look more like rivets than
>screws?  Are these screws that have been sanded or filed to look like
>rivets?
>
>Best regards,
>Roland Smith
>6667
>Oakland, California



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