From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1907
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 11:03 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Rough DeLorean dealer sign available
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. RE: Sticking Idle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: R&R of front license plate.
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: smoke
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. RE: Re: vac advance question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. Re: crappy acceleration
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Sticking Idle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: R&R of front license plate.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. RE: crappy acceleration
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Wiring Harness
From: "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Any San Antonio Owners?
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

13. Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Nice things to say about DMCH.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

17. DMC Lit Key Blank? Why is this different than mine...
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Raffle idea for Pigeon Forge
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

19. Brake Lights not Working
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

20. Re: DMC Lit Key Blank? Why is this different than mine...
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Technical Manual vs Workshop Manual
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Wiring Harness
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:51:53 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Rough DeLorean dealer sign available

I have a line on a VERY rough DeLorean dealer sign (two sided) for sale in
southern Louisiana - email me for pictures and then if you are interested I
can give you contact information.

James 

James (at) usadmc.com




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 12:01:13 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Sticking Idle

John,
It does sound like the cable is sticking or the acceleration mechanism.
Also, I have recently found that the micro switch lever is so strong to push
down that it also may be keeping the throttle body lever from going to the
rest position. A weak return spring could also be contributing to the
problem. Make sure the micro switch screw is about 30 thousands turned in
after the bottom screw hits the rest plate.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: john podlewski [mailto:flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Sticking Idle


My D idles fine around 900 RPM's but as soon as I give it gas and allow it
to come back to idle sometimes, not all the time it will remain _at_dml_ 1500 RPM.
The problem is fixed with a quick burst of GAS.  I put this post up a few
weeks ago and I got back, something might be binding.  However, everything
seems okay except my accel. cable does seems to be stretched.  Could that be
the cause?  Any suggestions would greatly help because I'm going to really
get into to it this week.





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:07:38 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: R&R of front license plate.

In a message dated 3/9/04 12:15:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com writes:

> Call PJ Grady and buy the front license plate holder. It takes 5 minutes to 
> install. 

Not if the nuts are rusted. I also live in a two plate state. Never had any 
problem with only 1 tag. I was told by friends who are cops that I need to have 
it "in sight." So I keep it in sight behind my seat, on the rear bulkhead 
carpet. 
Wayne A. Ernst
11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 18:02:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: smoke

Your problem is that the car must still have the original circuit 
board for the taillights. You are going to have to perform the 
modifications to tighten the compressed connections for the bulb 
holders on the board or go for the upgrade board from Grady. I 
recommend the Grady board.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Sorry for the late reply, I got the car back, appernetly what 
happen was nothing to do with the oil. One of the pullys on the drive 
belt locked up. The belt then was being pulled threw and torn up by 
the other pulls. I had them all replaced along with the belts. So 
anyway we got that fixed. But I screwed something up while replacing 
the lights in the tail of the car. If I turn the lights on I may have 
to hit the rear ligts to get them to work. I replaced all the bulbs, 
not sure what I did.
>  
>  
> Thanks,
> Darryl
> 5898



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 17:49:49 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

David T (I believe it was David that mentioned this)is probably right 
about a major vacuum leak on the lean bank. If the vacuum lines are 
original, especially the ones going to the brake and canister they 
are probably leaking at the connections as the old hoses get too hard 
and the sealing by the hose is lost. The rest of the problems I think 
relate to something else as I put in my note.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Harold,
> From what I understand from talking to Jeremiah is that 3 plugs on 
one side
> are burning rich and 3 plugs on the other side are burning lean. 
This has
> really got me thinking as to what could cause that.
> John
> 
> 
> 

[very long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 12:21:24 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: vac advance question

See below:

-----Original Message-----
From: TalksToGod [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 12:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: vac advance question


If I apply a vacuum to the hose attached to the advance, the unit
should work, mine just hisses with free flowing air and nothing moves,
so this means I have a vacuum leak and bad unit.

( Dan, Just to make sure were talking about the correct part, here is a link
to the vacuum advance unit on the side of the ignition distributor.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/distvacadv.jpg

The engine wouldn't perform well when I first started it and drove for the
first 5
minutes, but then it was fine after. The idle speed would vary faster
and slower up and down for the first 5 minutes too which I thought was
odd, also the idle speed is quite high, around 1000.
( Dan, As far as fuel goes, the idle should be consistence because the
Lambda control system should be holding the fuel at a 80/20 state till the
02 sensor heats up. Normally 2 min or less. but, if there is a vacuum leak
the idle will vary, so you may have more than one thing going on at a time.)

John Hervey


> Is this the effects of my bad leaking advance? Other than that I had no
> overheating problems, acceleration or knocking problems. Perhaps this
> just went bad before I started the work on it hence no other symptoms.
> Thanks -Dan Benedek #5003



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 18:24:02 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: crappy acceleration

No ignition advance can cause this. The fuel is completing the burn 
in the exhaust stroke. The distributor and vacuum advance need 
checked. Get a timing light hooked up and check to the specs at 
different RPMs.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then 
when 
> i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to 
> go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and 
> everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing 
red 
> on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 19:36:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sticking Idle

I have seen several cars that had either (or both) of the following:
The Quadrant link was worn on both ends causing a lot of play between
the  throttle spool and the throttle arm. The other condition was a
loose ball on the throttle spool where the quadrant link connects to
on the throttle spool. Rotate the throttle spool with your hand and
watch both ends of the quadrant link for play and check that the ball
is not rocking on the throttle spool. Remember if you try to remove
the  quadrant link to remove the little clips first (just like the
bigger ones on the struts).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> The microswitch is not being pushed correctly.
> It can be set very easy.
> 




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 19:41:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: R&R of front license plate.

Don't put the plate in front of the air inlets on the lower portion of
the front bumper. Since the inlets are small to begin with any
blockage can cause the radiator to not get enough air and you will
overheat the car. This came up in past posts and the people who did it
noticed a big difference. Break down and get a bracket or look at one
and copy it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



> Of course if you really want an ugly licsence plate in the front of
your car 
> blocking flow
> into your air screen that is you biz.... and of course the law.
> - VB
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 12:10:54 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: crappy acceleration

3469,
My first impression with your problem is the warm up regulator/CPR. The high
idle is normally a vacuum leak or binding acceleration cable and mechanism,
but just checking to see that they are all in order doesn't mean you don't
have a vacuum leak. The old rubber hoses could be broken and rotted around
the connections and there are 3 of them under the intake manifold. Also, the
idle speed motor tube going into the lower part of the air flow metering
body may not be tight fit and can leak a lot. Cat & exhaust glowing red to
me would indicate to much fuel. Again, Warm up regulator.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: delorean3469 [mailto:delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] crappy acceleration


> i having some acceleration problems. my car idals high and then when
> i try and go it bogs down after 3000 rpms. and then it like trys to
> go and then just go's ppptttt. i checked my vacum lines and
> everything is routed fine. also my exaust manifolds turn glowing red
> on both sides. some one please help!




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 19:48:10 -0000
From: "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Wiring Harness

Hi everyone.  In the engine compartment is the wiring harness 
supposed to run UNDER or OVER the intake?  So many pictures I see 
have it under the intake but then others run on top of the intake.  

When I purchased my Delorean the wiring harness run under the 
intake.  This put the harness in a bind with the throttle 
body/intake assembly.

One day while I was changing a bunch of rubber seals on the engine I 
decided to try running it on top of the intake, this gave great 
results.  The harness was no longer in a bind and alot the wires 
that ran to sensors and switches had much less stress on them.  It 
seems like this would be the most logical position.

So I guess an easy way to see if a Delorean's engine has been worked 
on by a competent mechanic would be to note the position of the 
harness.  Your thoughts??

Jon




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:11:29 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Any San Antonio Owners?

Are there any San Antonio D owners that would like to answer some quick
questions? Specifically, I am wondering if things are normal on my new D.
Idles rough with the air on, steering feels a bit odd, etc. Any help is
appreciated!

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships
210-681-4900
210-231-4214 (Direct)
 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 22:11:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate

Re: side by side Messages #39435 and #39436:

The great "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too rich"
vs "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too lean" debate.
Fuel mixture may have nothing to do with it:

On the way to get my new B27A, the converter stopped up on my truck.
Classic symptoms: sudden inability to run fuller throttle and no
exhaust pressure at the tail pipe. Nothing was glowing, but that may
be because it was zero degrees outside. The truck's engine is
carbureted, and I've never changed its jet (single barrel), so fuel
mixture wasn't a variable at all. What was, was removal of my smog
pump (air pump). Catalytic converters apparently need fresh air to do
their thing. Without it, they are prone to melt etc. EVERY SINGLE
CONVERTER I'VE EVER HAD PROBLEMS WITH STOPPED UP *AFTER* I REMOVED THE
SMOG PUMP.

Practical DeLo application -- we never had smog pumps to begin with.
Is it any wonder so many of our converters are suddenly stopping up?
Volvo used them on both F series B27 and B28. Did they know something
JZD didn't? Perhaps his zeal to squeeze a PRV into the car without
some of its usual accessories in the way set us up for the spate of
current problems (anyone else notice melted converters seem to be as
common now as bent & broken TABs?).

Delorean3469: pull your plugs and examine them. Their condition will
tell you what kind of a burn you're getting. Black and sooty means the
mixture may well be too rich (you could also have ignition or
compression problems). Clean and white means it's too lean, or
otherwise burning too early/completely.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 22:31:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

Actually the stock harness is pretty standard:
-12v unswitched (station memory)
-12v switched (unit itself)
-unit ground
-individual positive leads to each speaker
-common negative leads from each speaker, but their junction is
located only a few inches from the harness plug (high power stereos
can not share speaker return lines)

Plug and wire ID's are in lower right corner of this pic:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/radio7.jpg

Note stock stereo fuses are inline, located towards the rear of the
dash right behind the unit.

Wiring a replacement stereo isn't difficult. Cutting the dash is,
especially under the A/C panel vents. Is much easier with the bracket
removed from the car. Use the finest tooth blade possible, at high
speed. Might be an excellent application for a Dremel moto tool.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> If it isn't too late, I mean if you haven't cut up your harness yet,
you 
> need to get one of my wire harness adapters. It will allow you to
plug into 
> the existing wire harness, then tap out to your radio and it comes
with an 
> instruction sheet to explain what all of the connections are.
> Check out http://www.dfwdmc.com and go to store/parts.
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278
> 
> 
> >From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
> >Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 04:07:30 +0000
> >
> >Hey everybody.
> >Im installing a new cd player in my 81.
> >I have a couple questions.
> >where do I hook up the ground wire, and where do I hook up the
illumination
> >wire?
> >Anybody have any ideas? Thanks
> >
> >   Dustin
> >vin#006746
> >
> >[Irrelevant quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:21:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Nice things to say about DMCH.

Sure!

I have met Stephen a few times.  He is a pleasant
person.

Their efforts to re-make some of the unavailable
parts, is overall an advantage to the entire
community.  Although I do question some of the motives
to do so, such as re-printing SSI with a added chapter
of "advertisement".

It was a good business move for them to lower some of
the prices of the NOS parts, while causing a problem
for people (not me!) who have been hoarding parts.

... and I could go on.  However, there are enough
people kissing their ass on this list.  All of the
negative stuff said about them is more discreet.  I
seem to be the only one who will say anything negative
in public about them.

Specific to this topic, the DMCH performance engine is
a good project.  It fits a need that a number of
deep-pocket owners want satisfied.  Many times we have
discussed the "image" of the DeLorean, and quite
frankly I don't think the majority of DeLorean owners
want their car to sound like a ricer with coffee cans
on the tail pipes.

As for my well know "negative" DMCH comments, I have
had a number of compliments on getting the word out on
the false trademark claims, and informing owners that
their bent door strut supports are likely due to the
use of a DMCH strut which is longer than OEM.  Neither
of these claims have been disputed by DMCH, so there
is another nice thing I can say about them.

And... the moderator this week allowed your message
which I see as a personal attack against me... Lets
see if this message (my defense) makes it to the
reject pile like most of my DMCH related posts.

Marc


--- sonnyvr2000 <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Marc -
> 
> A quick question...do you ever have anything nice to
> say about DMCH?
> 
> Sonny V.
> 
> PS - As far as what you think about the exhaust
> being too loud...you 
> know what they say...if it's too loud, you're too
> old. :-)

[Moderator Note: For the record, I generally allow relevant, polite posts that stick to facts which may be confirmed or denied with evidence, including this topic.  As to Marc's judgement that Sonny was launching a personal attack, the topic is not worth clogging our subscribers' mailboxes and I'll reject any posts debating the point.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 18:22:33 -0500 EST
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...

HELP!!!!!

:-) Hey Josh,

I am in need of something that is unavailable... 1 of the 3 Brass 
screws.... the one closest to the W pipe - furthest from the Air FIlter 
Box.  Note: NOT the one with the slot in it... just 1 of the ones with 
the tapering head.

I would give you a part number but nobody seems to carry them... I 
would have to buy the entire throttle body.

Can you be of assistance?

Michael
vin# 6067

> Hey Josh,
> 
> I do have good panels...enough to do a whole car now in fact.  Asking 
> price is half of DMCH's price for each panel.  I am missing the glass 
> out of my left rear quarter, but everything else is in excellent 
> condition.  Hood is flat.  Left front fenders are a little more 
> expensive than everything else, But I can still get them to you for 
> less 
> than most people sell them for.
> 
> When you get the car stripped, let me know what you need, and we'll 
> take 
> it from there.
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh
> 
> 
> 
> Nun Yah wrote:
> 
> >Hey Josh,
> > Do you have any body panels that are in descent condition? I



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:09:09 EST
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC Lit Key Blank? Why is this different than mine...

I was surfing eBay and came across this auction for a lit key for the 
DeLorean.   I have an early car and happen to have 2 keys that light up, but mine 
look nothing like this one.   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&
item=3180193507&category=229

Mine have the DMC logo in black, and then a button, not the logo on the 
button as in this auction.   Did they have different key styles throughout the 
production of the 2 key cars, or is this an aftermarket key?

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:09:58 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Raffle idea for Pigeon Forge

>How about this for an raffle? Ask Rob or Don to aution of themselves for a 
day..<


I could go for that now we need to ask the people out there that do the 
service
you all are on the net so I encourage you to join in.  Its obvious I can't 
make that kind of promise for these guys.


Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:29:26 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Brake Lights not Working

Ok, this makes me nervous. Is there a common issue with the brake lights
not working? Something easy to check?

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships
210-231-4214
210-393-0346 (cell)
 
 




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 18:28:37 -0800 (PST)
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Lit Key Blank? Why is this different than mine...

DMC Lit key blank!  
Where can I get Mine?
I have A one key system! 
Would be a great addition.

PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
I was surfing eBay and came across this auction for a lit key for the 
DeLorean. I have an early car and happen to have 2 keys that light up, but mine 
look nothing like this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&
item=180193507&category="9

Mine have the DMC logo in black, and then a button, not the logo on the 
button as in this auction. Did they have different key styles throughout the 
production of the ? 2 key cars, or is this an aftermarket key?

Patrick
1880



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 04:23:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

It was the passenger bank running lean, so the problem would be on
driver's intake rail (the rails cross over before going into the
cylinder heads). Brake booster and HVAC canister is fed from the
passenger rail (cylinders 4-6).

Spark advance and full throttle enrichment are possibilities, as are U
pipe mating surfaces, a couple of pipe plugs, and of course the
throttle plate and housing.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> David T (I believe it was David that mentioned this)is probably right 
> about a major vacuum leak on the lean bank. If the vacuum lines are 
> original, especially the ones going to the brake and canister they 
> are probably leaking at the connections as the old hoses get too hard 
> and the sealing by the hose is lost. The rest of the problems I think 
> relate to something else as I put in my note.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > Harold,
> > From what I understand from talking to Jeremiah is that 3 plugs on 
> one side
> > are burning rich and 3 plugs on the other side are burning lean. 
> This has
> > really got me thinking as to what could cause that.
> > John
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> [very long quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 03:51:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate

The "smog pump", aka air injection pump, was necessary on the older
carbureated cars because they had so much unburned hydrocarbons that
they needed additional oxygen to burn all the hydrocarbons in the
exhaust (especally when in the warm-up cycle). In fact the air pump
was on many cars even before the catalytic converters. It had the dual
purpose of adding more oxygen so the hot unburned gases could continue
to burn in the exhaust system and it also helped to dilute the exhaust
thereby "lowering" the tailpipe emissions. It isn't used on the
Delorean because the exhaust is already very low in hydrocarbons so
the introduction of additional oxygen isn't required to burn the "left
over" hydrocarbons. Besides, putting the pump on only reduces the
horsepower available to move the car, increases the cost and weight of
the car and adds the complexity of another system. I don't know of any
fuel injected car that has an air pump with a catalytic converter. The
fact is the Delorean runs so clean that it doesn't even need an
exhaust gas recirculation system. Of course it does need to be
maintained to keep it running well. One fouled spark plug or dirty
fuel injector can mess the whole thing up. A catalytic converter will
glow red only because it is burning too much unburned fuel. Think
about it, what can cause it to get hotter than the rest of the exhaust
system, only if it is burning something inside. A too lean condition
can't do that. A glowing red converter is a sign that unburned fuel is
getting to it from the motor usually because a cylinder is misfiring
but also if the mixture screw is set too rich. A cylinder can misfire
for many reasons including; a bad/fouled spark plug, a bad ignition
wire, a burnt valve, broken ring, blown head gasket, valves way out of
adjustment, leaking, dirty fuel injector to name a few.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Re: side by side Messages #39435 and #39436:
> 
> The great "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too rich"
> vs "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too lean" debate.
> Fuel mixture may have nothing to do with it:
> 





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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 03:54:30 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

Hey Guys, thanks for the info on the stereo upgrade.
That was a fun little project.
I used a dremel to cut out the dash. It worked fine, but you really have to 
take your time.
I started at 1 in the afternoon and didnt get done till 8. So if anyone is 
thinking of cutting into
your dash, pen in a whole days worth of cutting.


   Dustin
006746


>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
>Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 22:31:19 -0000
>
>Actually the stock harness is pretty standard:
>-12v unswitched (station memory)
>-12v switched (unit itself)
>-unit ground
>-individual positive leads to each speaker
>-common negative leads from each speaker, but their junction is
>located only a few inches from the harness plug (high power stereos
>can not share speaker return lines)
>
>Plug and wire ID's are in lower right corner of this pic:
>http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/radio7.jpg
>
>Note stock stereo fuses are inline, located towards the rear of the
>dash right behind the unit.
>
>Wiring a replacement stereo isn't difficult. Cutting the dash is,
>especially under the A/C panel vents. Is much easier with the bracket
>removed from the car. Use the finest tooth blade possible, at high
>speed. Might be an excellent application for a Dremel moto tool.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:03:54 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Technical Manual vs Workshop Manual

OK, so maybe I should know this already but what does the Technical Manual 
have that my Workshop Manual doesn't and were is the best place to get a copy of 
the Technical Manual?

Thank you,

Dave & 6530



"Just Say NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 04:35:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness

I lengthened 2 or 3 lines and ran mine along the passenger valve
cover, parallel to the block. Allows me to raise and lower my intake
manifold vertically rather than making a funny swooping motion under
the harness. Note also the stock harness starts at passenger front of
the compartment, then swings all the way across the engine before
returning to passenger rear -- makes more sense to keep it on the
passenger side.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi everyone.  In the engine compartment is the wiring harness 
> supposed to run UNDER or OVER the intake?  So many pictures I see 
> have it under the intake but then others run on top of the intake.  
> 
> When I purchased my Delorean the wiring harness run under the 
> intake.  This put the harness in a bind with the throttle 
> body/intake assembly.
> 
> One day while I was changing a bunch of rubber seals on the engine I 
> decided to try running it on top of the intake, this gave great 
> results.  The harness was no longer in a bind and alot the wires 
> that ran to sensors and switches had much less stress on them.  It 
> seems like this would be the most logical position.
> 
> So I guess an easy way to see if a Delorean's engine has been worked 
> on by a competent mechanic would be to note the position of the 
> harness.  Your thoughts??
> 
> Jon




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