From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1908
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 3:21 PM

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Parts Car...one more time...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Does anyone want a DeLorean with a Northstar V-8 for $8000?
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. ] Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed
From: My House <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

4. Wiring Question
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: Wiring Harness
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Re: Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk

7. Great Drive
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

8. RE: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com

9. RE: Wiring Harness
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: new member - and question about John Z. Delorean
From: "florian_uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>

12. Up and running!
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 05:36:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Car...one more time...

Houston's web site lists them $4.64 (with O ring), Part
#102391/102393. Are you sure they're unavailable?

I'm going to a junkyard with at least one K Jetronic B27/B28 this
weekend if you want me to pick one up there.

BTW: balancing screws and air inlet screw are the same size. I'd
recommend replacing shear heads with regular slotted style.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> HELP!!!!!
> 
> :-) Hey Josh,
> 
> I am in need of something that is unavailable... 1 of the 3 Brass 
> screws.... the one closest to the W pipe - furthest from the Air FIlter 
> Box.  Note: NOT the one with the slot in it... just 1 of the ones with 
> the tapering head.
> 
> I would give you a part number but nobody seems to carry them... I 
> would have to buy the entire throttle body.
> 
> Can you be of assistance?
> 
> Michael
> vin# 6067
> 
> > Hey Josh,
> > 
> > I do have good panels...enough to do a whole car now in fact.  Asking 
> > price is half of DMCH's price for each panel.  I am missing the glass 
> > out of my left rear quarter, but everything else is in excellent 
> > condition.  Hood is flat.  Left front fenders are a little more 
> > expensive than everything else, But I can still get them to you for 
> > less 
> > than most people sell them for.
> > 
> > When you get the car stripped, let me know what you need, and we'll 
> > take 
> > it from there.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Josh
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Nun Yah wrote:
> > 
> > >Hey Josh,
> > > Do you have any body panels that are in descent condition? I




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 06:01:11 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Does anyone want a DeLorean with a Northstar V-8 for $8000?

That's right, a Northstar V-8 installed in your DeLorean for $8000.00.
What's the catch you ask?

I need 5 people to do this.

I have a friend here in Fort Worth, Texas who is a turbo expert.
He has been custom building motor mouonts, exhausts and turbos for
import racing cars for years and sells his parts all over the world.
We were discussing the ideas of pumping power into my DeLorean and I
mentioned how awesome the Northstar V-8 DeLorean was, and that I heard
that someone will install it for $20,000.00.
My buddy laughed.
He told me he could do for half of that.
...as a matter of fact he just put one in a Fiero.

We discussed the idea for a while and I asked him:
"What is the absolute cheapest we could put these engines into Deloreans?"
He replied that if we could get several people all at once to help
cover  his costs of making adapter plates, motor mounts and etc that
he could get the used engines in good shape and install them with all
of the computer equipment along with it for about $8000.00 each.
Basically, the entire PRV engine and electronics would be changed out.
I don't think I need to explain the advantages of this!

The details are:

We need FIVE people to sign up in order to do it.
The work will take about 30-60 days per car, in sequence.
The first person up, or next person up will need to provide 50% 
deposit of $4000.00, with the rest paid on pick up.
Everyone else on the list will need to place a $1000.00 deposit
in order to get on the list.

You are responsible for transportation of the car to and from 
Fort Worth, Texas.

If there are enough people interested, and willing to put up deposits
then we can do it.

If we can't get 5 people, he will do individuals but it may cost more,
as much as $10,000 each.
He can also install other engines if you like.
Other ideas are the Olds Aroura, and the Acura Legend 3.3.

Please contat me if you are interested.
I will keep this option open for a little while, if there is no
interest in it I will drop it.

- Videobob
VIN#5278






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:39:52 -0800 (PST)
From: My House <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: ] Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

I have experienced idle problems on my D as well as other problems with
the fuel injection.  Finally, I purchased the Bosch Fuel Injection
System manual by Bentley.  It has been a tremendous help, and has a
good discussion on the brass idle screws.

Thus, I disagree with modifying this system.  I going from memory, but
I suggest adjusting the R & L screws to balance the 2 banks and close
the center as intended.  If the car idles too high, fix the idle motor.
  Sticking, worn throttle linkage may also cause the same symptoms.



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 07:24:08 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Wiring Question

Hello all of the electrical geniuses on the List - I have a simple 
question ... which wire (or wires) in the relay compartment have +12 
volts with the key in the "ON" and "START" positions only?  The 
green/white seems to have power when in the "AUX" and "ON" 
positions, while the white/red seems to get power only in 
the "START" position.  Am I missing something on my wiring diagram, 
or is there something amiss in my car in one of those circuits?  
Inquiring minds need to know!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 07:15:52 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness

Jon - The wiring harness that you refer to is supposed to lay over 
the top of the intake, in the position that you placed it in.  Many 
people dislike the appearance of the wires draped over the intake, 
and have hidden them.  I admit that I have done the same thing.  If 
done carefully, there is no significant stress to the wires and 
switches.  However, it is not technically correct to run them under 
the intake. It's pretty much a personal taste thing, so mechanical 
competency really isn't the main factor.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi everyone.  In the engine compartment is the wiring harness 
> supposed to run UNDER or OVER the intake?  So many pictures I see 
> have it under the intake but then others run on top of the 
intake.  
> 
> When I purchased my Delorean the wiring harness run under the 
> intake.  This put the harness in a bind with the throttle 
> body/intake assembly.
> 
> One day while I was changing a bunch of rubber seals on the engine 
I 
> decided to try running it on top of the intake, this gave great 
> results.  The harness was no longer in a bind and alot the wires 
> that ran to sensors and switches had much less stress on them.  It 
> seems like this would be the most logical position.
> 
> So I guess an easy way to see if a Delorean's engine has been 
worked 
> on by a competent mechanic would be to note the position of the 
> harness.  Your thoughts??
> 
> Jon




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:06:04 +0100 (CET)
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Parts Car...one more time...

Michael

> I am in need of something that is unavailable... 1 of the 3 Brass 
> screws.... the one closest to the W pipe - furthest from the Air FIlter 
> Box. Note: NOT the one with the slot in it... just 1 of the ones with 
> the tapering head.
> 
> I would give you a part number but nobody seems to carry them... I 
> would have to buy the entire throttle body.

Is this not what you are looking for??

Page 1-4-1 Item 15
Part No. 102391 - Plug - Qty 3  - $4.40 

Dont forget the seal...

Part no 102393 O ring $0.24

regards

Chris

Freeserve AnyTime - HALF PRICE for the first 3 months - Save 7.50 a month 
www.freeserve.com/anytime



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 00:59:52 -0500
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Great Drive

I've learned an invaluable lesson!
Just got back home (South Carolina) from Rob Grady's garage up in Long
Island, and my D has never performed better!  The numerous adjustments,
skillful diagnostics, parts replacements, and overall (what I now call
'Grady Love') gave me a happier car that made the entire 15+ hour drive
home a PLEASURE!
Why did I wait so long!?
Deloreans are certainly pretty to look at, but driving a well-tuned 'D'
is something every owner should treat themselves to.
Although #10694 drives well, (Rob said upon an initial spin around the
block that it was surprisingly 'tight' for a car over 100,000 miles), I
had certain things in mind for him to look at.  -But there were several
discoveries that he and his staff made during their thorough exam that
have made a world of difference in the enjoyment of driving.  (Some were
more obvious than others, including a trailing arm bolt that was broken
more than 3/4 of the way through!)
What a difference it can make, having a skilled eye scour over your car
for you.
I would suggest, even to those who do their own work, that asking a
'fresh' knowledgeable eye to take a look-see, might lead to an even
better ride than you ever dreamed was possible.  It really is worth it!
Thanks Rob, Debbie, Pat, and everyone at P.J. Grady's!  Thanks to your
help, we'll be seeing you (and everyone else) in Pigeon Forge!
Oliver Holler



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:21:22 GMT
From: FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: RE: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo


Can anyone provide an opinion as to accelaration between the twin turbo that is out there (from Island?) vs. the DMCH performance engine?  Which is faster in the low range as in from a dead strat to about 30 mph?  If you have experience with actual factual stats great, but just a basic "feel" would be welcome too.   Don't care about a lot of technical torque mumbo jumbo. Don't care about cost.  Don't care about how it sounds.  Which is the fasted from a dead start to 30 mph.  Period.  Thanks for any feedback!



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:23:27 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Wiring Harness

Jon, Here is a not so good but ok shot of a concourse car that won Cleveland
.
Harness is on top.
John Hervey
All I have seen are on top.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/eng-comp.jpg



-----Original Message-----
From: doki_pen [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Wiring Harness


> Hi everyone.  In the engine compartment is the wiring harness
> supposed to run UNDER or OVER the intake?  So many pictures I see
> have it under the intake but then others run on top of the intake.
>
> When I purchased my Delorean the wiring harness run under the
> intake.  This put the harness in a bind with the throttle
> body/intake assembly.
>
> One day while I was changing a bunch of rubber seals on the engine I
> decided to try running it on top of the intake, this gave great
> results.  The harness was no longer in a bind and alot the wires
> that ran to sensors and switches had much less stress on them.  It
> seems like this would be the most logical position.
>
> So I guess an easy way to see if a Delorean's engine has been worked
> on by a competent mechanic would be to note the position of the
> harness.  Your thoughts??
>
> Jon




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:27:22 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine running half rich half lean.

I also concur with David on this. I can't think of any other logical reason
but the intake is not in correct and leaking on one side.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 11:50 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine running half rich half lean.


> David T (I believe it was David that mentioned this)is probably right
> about a major vacuum leak on the lean bank. If the vacuum lines are
> original, especially the ones going to the brake and canister they
> are probably leaking at the connections as the old hoses get too hard
> and the sealing by the hose is lost. The rest of the problems I think
> relate to something else as I put in my note.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:03:55 -0000
From: "florian_uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: new member - and question about John Z. Delorean

Hey Josh,

I bet you were in heaven... I hope I can sit in one pretty soon too!
If we have nice weather, James LaLonde offered me a ride in his ;)

I can't wait ;)

The reason why I asked the question about John Z. DeLorean is because
i've read somewhere he still lives somewhere in New Jersey and i just
wanted to see if that info is still up to date...

One question about the chassis...How come he didnt make the Chassis
out of Stainless Steel, but epoxy-coated Steel? I think the couple
more thousand $ wouldnt have made the price that much more cause it
was already at $28k... And it would have made it a forever lasting car ;)

Florian




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 03:37:33 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Up and running!

Thought I would let everyone know that vin 4475 is back up and running
on the road. This is the first time since 1983-84ish that she has been
out there.

It has taken me almost 6 months to debug the various fuel, electrical,
and engine issues that the car had. An entire rebuild of the fuel
system was probably the biggest chore. This has definitley been a huge
learning experience for my and my family members who have greatly
helped out. I would also like to greatly thank John Hervey. Without
his help, I know I would not be where I am today.

Even though I am up and running, there is still a long ways to go.
Every part on the car, minus the ones I have replaced, are original.
Most of the hoses are hardened, interior sun damaged, etc. I am now
out to get my minor electrical issues resolved as to get it registered
and inspected. Thanks to all who have helped me out, and future thanks
to the help I will be asking for.

Ej
Vin 4475




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 09:08:32 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions

I bought a set of Steger's chromed rims and have them sitting here in
the middle of the living room gleaming.
For those of you curous about them, I think they look damn good, 
but I am not sure if they are a good value.
They cost $800.00 + core.
The deposit on the exchange is $800, so you need to fork over about
$1700 or so initially, and then you need to pay to have your tires
switched and then send the rims back.
This is an out of pocket costs of over $1000 if you keep your own
tires....Not to mention loosing your old rims, which appearantly are
worth $800 to Don Steger so I suppose you could get that for a
set....meaning you are spending about $1800, or $450.00 per rim!
Damn, now that I think about it I feel hosed!
You can buy some damned nice rims for that sort of bread!
Also, the black paint on the inside seems like it would come off easily.
There was a lot of overspray in little bits on the front of the rim
and I could easily scratch it off with my finger nail.
So time will tell.

However, the point of this post was not to bash Don's rims,
but to talk about tires.
I have heard that so far the best choice for tires are the 
MICHELLIN XGT PILOTS.
However, what are the exact sizes needed front and back?

What are the original tire sizes that the factory reccomended?

The reason I ask is because the cheap-o tires that came on my car have 
165-60R14's in front, and those seem very small to me, and I can't
even find this size anywhere. The Pilots only go down to 185's, 
yet I have heard of people putting 195's on.
SO what is the proper size for the front?

I figure I might as well put NEW tires on these expensive ass rims.

Thanks.
- Videobob
VIN# 5278




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