From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1909
Date: Thursday, March 11, 2004 6:04 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brake Lights not Working
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

3. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "pdmytrewycz" <pauld_at_dml_pauld.net>

4. RE: Wiring Harness
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

5. Re: PRV Catalytic Converters -- Volvo vs DeLorean
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. The DML
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

7. Toby TAB torque specifications
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: Technical Manual vs Workshop Manual
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Upcoming Virginia Car Shows
From: "dsontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

11. Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

12. Re: Wiring Harness [Engine]
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. RE: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. cluth release bearing
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

15. Re: Brake Lights not Working
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Toby TAB torque specifications
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

17. Bricklin bought by DeLorean?
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Tax value of D
From: DeLorean5000_at_dml_comcast.net

19. Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

20. Re: The DML
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

21. Re: Re: PRV Catalytic Converters -- Volvo vs DeLorean
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

22. Starting Question
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Vacuum leak
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

25. Seeking Local Mentor
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 11:22:42 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights not Working

First check your brake light fuse, then check your brake light switch 
then your brake light bulbs. If these parts are in good working order 
check your wiring.

Mark


On Tuesday, March 9, 2004, at 08:29 PM, Alex Wolf wrote:

> Ok, this makes me nervous. Is there a common issue with the brake 
> lights
> not working? Something easy to check?
>
> Alex Wolf
> Internet Manager
> Ancira Dealerships
> 210-231-4214
> 210-393-0346 (cell)



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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 11:30:49 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions

Fronts 195/60HR14 23PSI
Rears 235/60HR15 30PSI

This info should also be on a sticker on your glove box lid.

Mark



On Wednesday, March 10, 2004, at 03:08 AM, Robert Moseley wrote:

> I bought a set of Steger's chromed rims and have them sitting here in
> the middle of the living room gleaming.
> For those of you curous about them, I think they look damn good,
> but I am not sure if they are a good value.
> They cost $800.00 + core.
> The deposit on the exchange is $800, so you need to fork over about
> $1700 or so initially, and then you need to pay to have your tires
> switched and then send the rims back.
> This is an out of pocket costs of over $1000 if you keep your own
> tires....Not to mention loosing your old rims, which appearantly are
> worth $800 to Don Steger so I suppose you could get that for a
> set....meaning you are spending about $1800, or $450.00 per rim!
> Damn, now that I think about it I feel hosed!
> You can buy some damned nice rims for that sort of bread!
> Also, the black paint on the inside seems like it would come off 
> easily.
> There was a lot of overspray in little bits on the front of the rim
> and I could easily scratch it off with my finger nail.
> So time will tell.
>
> However, the point of this post was not to bash Don's rims,
> but to talk about tires.
> I have heard that so far the best choice for tires are the
> MICHELLIN XGT PILOTS.
> However, what are the exact sizes needed front and back?
>
> What are the original tire sizes that the factory reccomended?
>
> The reason I ask is because the cheap-o tires that came on my car have
> 165-60R14's in front, and those seem very small to me, and I can't
> even find this size anywhere. The Pilots only go down to 185's,
> yet I have heard of people putting 195's on.
> SO what is the proper size for the front?
>
> I figure I might as well put NEW tires on these expensive ass rims.
>
> Thanks.
> - Videobob
> VIN# 5278



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:36:42 -0000
From: "pdmytrewycz" <pauld_at_dml_pauld.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hey Guys, thanks for the info on the stereo upgrade.
> That was a fun little project.
> I used a dremel to cut out the dash. It worked fine, but you really
have to 
> take your time.
> I started at 1 in the afternoon and didnt get done till 8. So if
anyone is 
> thinking of cutting into
> your dash, pen in a whole days worth of cutting.

Forgive my ignorance, but why/what did you have to cut?
I'm not yet a D owner, but hope to be soon. And the first thing I plan
to do is upgrade the stereo, so this thread is of great interest to me.

Thanks, Paul D.




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 11:47:13 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Wiring Harness

The correct routing of the wiring harness is over the top of the air intake
housing as is shown in the photo John Hervey has on his site.  That is the
way they left the factory.

Scott Mueller
Concours Engine Compartment Judge 2003
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john_at_dml_specialtauto.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 11:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Wiring Harness


Jon, Here is a not so good but ok shot of a concourse car that won Cleveland
. Harness is on top. John Hervey All I have seen are on top.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/eng-comp.jpg



-----Original Message-----
From: doki_pen [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Wiring Harness


> Hi everyone.  In the engine compartment is the wiring harness supposed 
> to run UNDER or OVER the intake?  So many pictures I see have it under 
> the intake but then others run on top of the intake.
>
> When I purchased my Delorean the wiring harness run under the intake.  
> This put the harness in a bind with the throttle body/intake assembly.
>
> One day while I was changing a bunch of rubber seals on the engine I 
> decided to try running it on top of the intake, this gave great 
> results.  The harness was no longer in a bind and alot the wires that 
> ran to sensors and switches had much less stress on them.  It seems 
> like this would be the most logical position.
>
> So I guess an easy way to see if a Delorean's engine has been worked 
> on by a competent mechanic would be to note the position of the 
> harness.  Your thoughts??
>
> Jon




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:00:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Catalytic Converters -- Volvo vs DeLorean

Smog pumps are standard issue on Volvo F series PRV's. Look closely at
the full size front view pic of my B27F and you'll see it in the lower
left corner. Of course they rob power -- that's one reason I remove
them. They also depend on a Rube Goldberg water temp/vacuum system,
which doesn't age well, to only inject air under certain engine
conditions.

Other than the DeLorean, I've never seen a turn of the decade
catalytic converter equipped vehicle without a smog pump from the
factory. I wonder if JZD simply omitted so he'd have some place to run
his exhaust tubing. If my DC area mechanic is correct, the smog pump
is indeed there for the converter's benefit, which would explain why
simply removing it eventually causes problems. The air passages are
tiny. Without additional burn time, they could easily clog up with
soot. I have noticed that the tailpipes on my de-emissioned vehicles
accumulate a lot of soot even though the spark plugs indicate a good
burn inside the engine.

Re-read Delorean3469's message: he stated both manifolds were glowing,
not the converter itself.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The "smog pump", aka air injection pump, was necessary on the older
> carbureated cars because they had so much unburned hydrocarbons that
> they needed additional oxygen to burn all the hydrocarbons in the
> exhaust (especally when in the warm-up cycle). In fact the air pump
> was on many cars even before the catalytic converters. It had the dual
> purpose of adding more oxygen so the hot unburned gases could continue
> to burn in the exhaust system and it also helped to dilute the exhaust
> thereby "lowering" the tailpipe emissions. It isn't used on the
> Delorean because the exhaust is already very low in hydrocarbons so
> the introduction of additional oxygen isn't required to burn the "left
> over" hydrocarbons. Besides, putting the pump on only reduces the
> horsepower available to move the car, increases the cost and weight of
> the car and adds the complexity of another system. I don't know of any
> fuel injected car that has an air pump with a catalytic converter. The
> fact is the Delorean runs so clean that it doesn't even need an
> exhaust gas recirculation system. Of course it does need to be
> maintained to keep it running well. One fouled spark plug or dirty
> fuel injector can mess the whole thing up. A catalytic converter will
> glow red only because it is burning too much unburned fuel. Think
> about it, what can cause it to get hotter than the rest of the exhaust
> system, only if it is burning something inside. A too lean condition
> can't do that. A glowing red converter is a sign that unburned fuel is
> getting to it from the motor usually because a cylinder is misfiring
> but also if the mixture screw is set too rich. A cylinder can misfire
> for many reasons including; a bad/fouled spark plug, a bad ignition
> wire, a burnt valve, broken ring, blown head gasket, valves way out of
> adjustment, leaking, dirty fuel injector to name a few.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > Re: side by side Messages #39435 and #39436:
> > 
> > The great "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too rich"
> > vs "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too lean" debate.
> > Fuel mixture may have nothing to do with it:
> >




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 13:31:49 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: The DML

I just wanted to send kudos to this entire list and online community for
all the valuable information that comes across here. I'm still not quite
in the position to own my first Delorean quite yet, but with the welath
of knowledge and helpfulness of everyone here, i'm sure that the last
few years of my group subscription will make for a smooth transition
into being a well-informed owner.
 
It seems like there isn't really a problem that hasn't crept up that
hasn't been well-tackled among the people here. Everyone here is
obviously devoted to this car and maintaining and preserving it's
heritage and image. What's most fun is getting into offline
debates/arguments/conversations about this car to those who "think" they
know everything. It's a shining moment to "own" someone who spouts off
BS by the truckload. But i still feel the duty to maintain civility in
such conversations.
 
This is probably my favorite online community of them all. 
 
While the DML is great for knowledge and problem-solving, It is still
lacking. Mostly due to the technical limitations of being a yahoo list.
There's no "live feel" to it. I've noticed a couple of online
messageboards but they seem sporadic in their nature of activity. I feel
that a great number more friendships could be made in such a community
where we could learn more about each other as people and not just
owners. But that's what (i assume) makes the gatherings more
interesting!
 
So that's all, really. Just sending an advance "thank you" to everyone
here for the dedication and service that's being done to preserve the
Delorean saga for years to come.
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com <http://www.88-mph.com/>  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 13:36:20 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Toby TAB torque specifications

What should the Toby TABs be torqued to? (Yes, I know, under load) Any info 
would be appreciated. Thank you.

Dom



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:39:17 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo

Easy. Based on the same engine, a well tuned normally aspirated lump 
will always outrun a turbo from a standing start. It's mid-range that 
turbos sing, but the Island kit shouldn't be compared to the legend 
prototypes which I think would blow the doors off the DMCH engine (and I 
don't think they'd mind me saying it!)

Martin

FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com wrote:

>Can anyone provide an opinion as to accelaration between the twin turbo that is out there (from Island?) vs. the DMCH performance engine?  Which is faster in the low range as in from a dead strat to about 30 mph?  If you have experience with actual factual stats great, but just a basic "feel" would be welcome too.   Don't care about a lot of technical torque mumbo jumbo. Don't care about cost.  Don't care about how it sounds.  Which is the fasted from a dead start to 30 mph.  Period.  Thanks for any feedback!
>
>  
>





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:40:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Technical Manual vs Workshop Manual

The info in the Technical Manual is essentally similar to that
presented in the Workshop Manual. The Technical Manual presents it a
little differently. If you do a lot of work on your car it is useful
but not required. They appear on E-bay often. It is a grey colored
soft cover book with Technical Manual on the front in black lettering.
Not very thick and they go for around $70. If you are looking for a
good book on the fuel system Bosch makes a small handbook that is
worth it's weight in gold and Classic Motorbooks has a book on Bosch
engine management systems by Robert Probst. For electrical the wiring
diaghram that Zilla products offers is great and the proceeds go to a
worthy charity. DMCH has just released the parts manual and price list
on C/D. They also included a bunch of forms and pictures.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> OK, so maybe I should know this already but what does the Technical
Manual 
> have that my Workshop Manual doesn't and were is the best place to
get a copy of 
> the Technical Manual?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> 
> "Just Say NO, to the COUCH POTATO!"
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:42:57 -0000
From: "dsontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Upcoming Virginia Car Shows

Just received my registration forms for two car shows coming up:

April 24, 2004 Saturday
The Poquoson Auto Show
Sponsored by Classic Cruisers Car Club
Poquoson City Park
contact: bullrmi57_at_dml_msn.com

May 2, 2004 Sunday
British Classic Car Meet
Sponsored by The Richmond Triumph Regiister
At The Boulders
Richmond, VA
contact: kmntr6_at_dml_aol.com




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 13:12:26 -0500
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.

Mark,

All of our vendors are in business to make a living!  According to our
economic system, anyone who expends the effort and financial resources to
provide a product or service is entitled to compensation for their efforts.
DMCH has tons of money invested in their company and inventory and has gone
to the effort to replace inferior or non existing parts and to come up with
enhancements for you and your DeLorean so that you may enjoy it for years to
come.  They are entitled to charge what the Market will bear according to
our economic system.  DMCH has chosen to lower the price on some parts and
charge a fair price for the rest.  What is wrong with this?

They went to the trouble of securing all necessary permits, licenses, etc.
to have SSI reprinted.  I see no reason for them not to have an
Advertisement for their company if they so choose.

I feel that all of our Vendors deserve credit and our praise for being
business for us.  Without them, we, the owners would be in one Heck of a
situation.  Of course it works the other way also, they couldn't make it
without us.

I personally have done business with most all of our vendors, including the
one on the left coast that everyone complains about.  I have been satisfied
with all parts and services that I have received from each one of them.

Bill Lane
#3635
North Carolina




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:48:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness [Engine]

Run the wiring harness any way you like. The "correct" origional way
is over the top. In fact there was a bulletin to strap tie it and tuck
it into the clips. The important things here are to keep it away from
heat, don't try to stretch it, and keep it away from the throttle
linkage where it can get caught. I like it on top so I can see it, if
it is underneath it can get damaged and you wouldn't see it. Check out
the wire running down the left side to the oil pressure light. On most
cars that wire is so cooked and brittle the insulation is long gone.
It will make the oil light flash when it touches metal. A case of "out
of sight, out of mind". A way to "fix" it is to slide a heat resistant
cover over it or you can splice in a piece of wire that is more heat
resistant.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Jon - The wiring harness that you refer to is supposed to lay over 
> the top of the intake, in the position that you placed it in.  Many 
> people dislike the appearance of the wires draped over the intake, 
> and have hidden them.  I admit that I have done the same thing.  If 
> done carefully, there is no significant stress to the wires and 





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 11:46:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: DMCH's performance eng vs Island bi-Turbo

I've had two DeLoreans with the twin turbo kit on
them.  Current one is an 83 manual.  I have also
driven a DeLorean with the DMCH engine, plus have
ridden and driven with a friend who has one.  Here's
my take.

If I were starting from scratch today, I'd take the
DMCH engine, even though I also think it is just a tad
loud.  Two reasons:  First, the Island kit is still
using 70's vintage turbos.  Waaay too much has changed
to be still putting them on cars.  Second, the DMCH
engine is less fussy.

Having said that, I drive my car mostly on very long
road trips.  Low end acceleration is not of great
importance to me.  Mid-range  power is.  The turbos
handle this very nicely.  If I lived in a metropolitan
area where most of the driving was stop/start/ get on
and get off the freeway, I'd prefer the DMCH engine.

Just one persons 2.

Dick ryan 
--- FSMinc_at_dml_juno.com wrote:
> 
> Can anyone provide an opinion as to accelaration
> between the twin turbo that is out there (from
> Island?) vs. the DMCH performance engine?  Which is
> faster in the low range as in from a dead strat to
> about 30 mph?  If you have experience with actual
> factual stats great, but just a basic "feel" would
> be welcome too.   Don't care about a lot of
> technical torque mumbo jumbo. Don't care about cost.
>  Don't care about how it sounds.  Which is the
> fasted from a dead start to 30 mph.  Period.  Thanks
> for any feedback!



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:38:32 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: cluth release bearing

I purchased a new cluth release bearing from a DeLorean supplier and when 
comparing it to the old one they are not the same. The old one strongly 
clips to the yoke while the new one has a tang on one side that sort of 
clips and the other side is straight. The center hole guide is a plastic 
type material on the old one and the new one is all metal.
My concerns are it does not seem to be attached as well to the yoke as the 
old original one and the metal against metal is less desirable for the cener 
hole .

Has anyone else seen this and should this be of concern?
I actually considered using the old carrier for the the new bearing but it 
has one of the ears broken off which is probably why it was making an 
undesirable noise.


Cecil Longwisch
#10663



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:45:01 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights not Working

Mine stopped working awhile ago.

For me, it turned out to be the brake light switch in front of the 
brake pedal.  It was stuck in the "in" position (lights off) so that 
even when the pedal was pressed, the switch would not let out.

If that's not your problem, you might want to check the wiring to the 
switch.  And I think there is probably a fuse associated with the 
brake lights, too.

Aaron
#1506


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Ok, this makes me nervous. Is there a common issue with the brake 
lights
> not working? Something easy to check?
> 
> Alex Wolf
> Internet Manager
> Ancira Dealerships
> 210-231-4214
> 210-393-0346 (cell)




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:20:27 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Toby TAB torque specifications

Dom - In the installation instructions that came with the bolt kits, 
I recommended a final torque of 50 ft-lbs.  This can be applied to 
either the head side, or the nut side of the joint.  The bolt shank 
should be coated with a good anti-seize compound to protect the inner 
diameter of the steel sleeves in the bushing and trailing arm from 
chafing and corrosion.  I hope this helps!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248  "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> What should the Toby TABs be torqued to? (Yes, I know, under load) 
Any info 
> would be appreciated. Thank you.
> 
> Dom




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:36:29 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Bricklin bought by DeLorean?

This guy is absolutly nuts... but do check it out on ebay this guy is 
a selling a Bricklin.  Ok, not DeLorean related, but there is a 
statment he makes saying that "Bricklin was bought out by John 
Delorean and redesigned into the "Delorean."

Alright, I guess thats all thats DeLorean related, but I just thought 
it funny to think people are that arragant.  Check out the 
website/action, and dont respond to the group.  We all know there are 
werdos out there.  Just read the archives, people think DeLoreans 
have helicopter engines, made of aluminum, and even some people dumb 
enough to think these are new cars... makes you wonder how good shape 
some of our cars actualy are.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
viewItem&category=6472&item=2465042195

'might have to cut and paste, sorry about that...

Tom Porter
Still lookin'
 




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:54:03 +0000
From: DeLorean5000_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Tax value of D

My car lives in North Carolina.  Each county in NC has a tax value assigned to each piece of property that you own (that is report that you own) and each year the county will send you a notice with the tax value of your property and what you must pay(this is for homes, land, vehicles, etc.) BTW, they know you still own your vehicle if you apply to renew your tag on your vehicle.  I did this in January and just received my tax notice.  I understand that some states do not do this, but I know there are lots of NC D owners on this list and perhaps other states are the same way.  For the past 6 years my D has been valued at $4,xxx, which I am perfectly fine with, means I have to pay less tax for owning it.  However, this year it came in at a whopping $13,xxx.  BTW I am not talking about actual value of D's, I am talking tax value, these are 2 different things(I don't want to start a thread about what D's sell for or what they are worth).  According to the tax office, they recently got new figures for all vehicles and the D is apparently worth more now, perhaps due to the fact that it is approaching the 25 year mark.  This is what I was told anyway.  I was able to lower it to the past figure for this year, but next year I will not be so lucky.  My question to the group is, if you don't mind sharing, is.......what is your tax value(if it applies) and has it gone up since last year?  

Regards,
Darren Decker   
#5000



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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:48:40 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.

I feel the same Bill,

If all of the vendors decided to not source new parts or have out of 
stock parts re-made we would not be driving our cars for long because 
the NOS parts would disappear.

I also wanted to point out i am NOT the Mark Bill was referring to in 
Bills last post. I will now sign my posts with my last initial i just 
don't want you to get the Mark's confused with each other.

Mark V
6683


On Wednesday, March 10, 2004, at 12:12 PM, Bill Lane wrote:

> Mark,
>
> All of our vendors are in business to make a living!  According to our
> economic system, anyone who expends the effort and financial resources 
> to
> provide a product or service is entitled to compensation for their 
> efforts.
> DMCH has tons of money invested in their company and inventory and has 
> gone
> to the effort to replace inferior or non existing parts and to come up 
> with
> enhancements for you and your DeLorean so that you may enjoy it for 
> years to
> come.  They are entitled to charge what the Market will bear according 
> to
> our economic system.  DMCH has chosen to lower the price on some parts 
> and
> charge a fair price for the rest.  What is wrong with this?
>
> They went to the trouble of securing all necessary permits, licenses, 
> etc.
> to have SSI reprinted.  I see no reason for them not to have an
> Advertisement for their company if they so choose.
>
> I feel that all of our Vendors deserve credit and our praise for being
> business for us.  Without them, we, the owners would be in one Heck of 
> a
> situation.  Of course it works the other way also, they couldn't make 
> it
> without us.
>
> I personally have done business with most all of our vendors, 
> including the
> one on the left coast that everyone complains about.  I have been 
> satisfied
> with all parts and services that I have received from each one of them.
>
> Bill Lane
> #3635
> North Carolina



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 00:41:40 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: The DML

A few of us are getting together in a little town called Pigeon Forge 
in the end of June. Hope to see you there.
Stephen
Vin 3601
... There's no "live feel" to it. I've noticed a couple of online 
messageboards but they seem sporadic in their nature of activity. I 
feel that a great number more friendships could be made in such a 
community where we could learn more about each other as people and 
not just  owners. But that's what (i assume) makes the gatherings more
 interesting!





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:40:05 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Catalytic Converters -- Volvo vs DeLorean

On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, content22207 wrote:

> Other than the DeLorean, I've never seen a turn of the decade
> catalytic converter equipped vehicle without a smog pump from the

Almost every car has a smog pump.

The purpose of the smog pump on a catalytic converter equipped vehicle is
to provide additional air for the catalytic converter.  They call it a
smog pump, but it doesn't pump smog, it pumps ordinary air.  A catalytic
converter needs oxygen in order to convert unburned hydrocarbons into H2O
+ CO2.  Without a smog pump, it has to rely on the oxygen in the exhaust.  
There's some, but there's not enough.  Without it, the carbon builds up
inside the catalytic converter.  This reduces its effectiveness until
eventually it stops working.

There are catalytic converters in existence that are designed to work 
without this additional air.  They are almost all in aftermarket 
applications and typically do not last for more than a couple of years.  
The primary factors determining the success of a catalytic converter 
without a smog pump are the design of the cat, and the richness of the
mixture.  A too-rich mixture will eventually damage any cat, whether there 
is an air pump or not.

The reason cars with air pumps installed typically have a valve to 
control it is that too much air can cause the cat to overheat and can 
actually make it harder to convert nitrogen oxides.

Do not remove the smog pump on any vehicle.  They use less than 1 HP of 
power and without it you will have to replace your catalytic converter 
(unless you removed that too, but then you have no chance of passing 
emissions).

(Following quotes are from previous emails by other authors in the 
thread).

> fact is the Delorean runs so clean that it doesn't even need an
> exhaust gas recirculation system. Of course it does need to be

The primary purpose of exhaust gas recirculation is actually to lower 
combustion temperatures.  On a low compression car like the DeLorean, you 
don't need it.

> The great "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too rich"
> vs "catalytic converter stops up because mixture is too lean" debate.

Both can damage the converter.  They are fairly robust devices, but they 
can still both plug up and overheat.




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 01:32:02 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Starting Question

I looked through the archives and didn't find what I was looking for 
so here is my question. My car starts up fine if I put the key in 
and immediatley start up the car BUT if I have the accessory on for 
a little amount of time (all the buzzing sounds Fuel pump etc) it 
will not start right up. It takes a good 10 to 15 seconds to start 
and then it sputters a little, then idles fine. I thought this was a 
little strange and I just wanted to know if this is a sign of 
something going out or needs to be adjusted.  Thanks for all the 
help, you guys are great!

Adam Lee
VIN #1913




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:11:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nice things to say about DMCH.

[Moderator Note: This message approved because the DML allows it's subscribers to express opinions.  This message contains at least one opinion and one assumption that are worded as if the author knows they are facts, though he presents no proof of the telepathic powers that allow him to know the thoughts and intentions of his fellow human beings.  I will not stop a DMLer from practicing this type of writing, but I point out to all subscribers that your posts will be more respectable when you label your opinions as opinions.
- moderator Mike Substelny]


I don't think I ever claimed that a vendor is not
entitled to make money.

Microsoft makes lots of money too, yet their business
ethics can be questioned...  I am simply doing the
same with DMCH.

You are correct, they are entitled to charge whatever
they want for whatever they want.  I just find it
curious that most of the parts they are re-making are
parts that had alternate solutions already.  I
conclude the goal was to undercut the competition. 
The end result is good for me (something nice too
say), because I can now buy better quality door
pistons, steering racks, and fuel level senders from
other vendors for the same cost as the DMCH products.

I own a car that was built by "DeLorean Motor Company
Inc", which is no longer in existence.  It is
misleading for them to have registered themselves as
"DeLorean Motor Company" on May 12, 1995.  The
technicality of "INC" is likely what allowed them to
do this.  If the REAL DMC was still in business, there
would have been a lawsuit to stop this confusion.

DMCH uses this confusion to their (deliberate)
advantage.  

Reprinting SSI, a piece of DeLorean history, to
promote themselves and all other actions to mislead
the public it to thinking that they are the company
that built our cars should be offensive to all
DeLorean owners.

Some of us "older timers" remember when there was a
DeLorean One of Texas, which by coincidence was
registered at 10804 ROARK RD.  "DeLorean Motor
Company" is registered at the same address according
to Texas Comptroller of Public Accounts (
http://ecpa.cpa.state.tx.us/coa/Index.html ).  Draw
your own conclusions.  My conclusion is there was a
bitter divorce, and this is a large factor in the
motivation for the way DMCH does things.

I know I am not the only person on this list who can
see the emperor is naked... Too bad we are a minority.

Marc

 
--- Bill Lane <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com> wrote:
> Mark,
> 
> All of our vendors are in business to make a living!
>  According to our
> economic system, anyone who expends the effort and
<SNIP>



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:11:56 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Vacuum leak

Well, what I thought was a faulty fuel pump (it was whining last night)
is apparently a vacuum leak also. A friend of mine came by and covered
the air intake, and it started sucking air from the side of the engine.
Anything I can do myself? I am taking the car to DMCH on Friday for the
fuel pump, should I just have them check it there?

Alex Wolf
#4606
210-231-4214
210-393-0346 (cell)
 
 




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:49:47 -0500
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Seeking Local Mentor


I've had my DeLorean since July.  I love owning it, I love driving it.
Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or experience to give it the care it
deserves.

I've had a dickens of a time finding a local shop that I'm comfortable with
that wants to work on my car.
I could possibly afford to have it worked on up at Grady's, but it's just
too darned far away to drive the car there, especially when it's
misbehaving.

I'm having a tough time getting to the point where I am confident that I've
found the right projects to focus on to ensure my car's safety and
reliability.

This forum is a great place to swap knowledge, but so often I read a post
that says something like "check for vacuum leaks" which sounds simple, but
actually doing the work implies a level of knowledge, and availability of
tools that I just don't have.  I'm a smart guy, but I don't have serious car
maintenance experience, and I don't feel comfortable starting with a few
posts or pictures off the web, and ripping key components off my engine.

I'm looking for someone within a reasonable distance of Philadelphia to help
me out.  Someone who is more comfortable with the mechanical work than I am,
knows these cars and their engines pretty well, and who is willing to help
get me going.  I'm trainable, and can buy parts and tools, but I feel like
I'm floundering, and I'm concerned that I may not be doing the right thing
by my car.  I'll be happy to supply food, drink, lodging (if you don't mind
furry critters... we do animal rescue) and a pair of willing (but inexpert)
hands.  I could also drive my car and some supplies to a local place if that
makes things more doable.

Anyone out there have some time and experience they could lend for some
in-person assistance?




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