From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1910
Date: Thursday, March 11, 2004 2:59 PM

There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Brake Lights not Working
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Bulletin Board
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

5. RE: cluth release bearing
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. RE: Brake Lights not Working
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: Technical Manual vs. Workshop Manual
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. spare fuel distributor
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

9. Re: Brake Lights not Working
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

10. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Wiring Harness [Engine]
From: "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Does Lack Of Smog Pump/ EGR Cause Long Term Damage To DeLo Converter?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. ST.PATS PARADE ATLANTA SEDOC
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

14. Re: Tax value of D
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

15. Re: Seeking Local Mentor
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

16. RE: Re: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>

17. Doing the sums on Don Steger's chrome wheels.
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com

18. Alternator Upgrade.
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Tax value of D
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Seeking Local Mentor
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

21. Re: clutch release bearing
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: DMCH (Stainless Steel Illusion II)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 02:48:31 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

Hey Paul D.
You have to cut the dash because the craig radio that is in there is only 
about a half-din size.
You will see when you get your D.
Basicly you have to make the opening bigger to except the normail DIN size 
cd/radio player.


Dustin
006746



>From: "pdmytrewycz" <pauld_at_dml_pauld.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:36:42 -0000
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Hey Guys, thanks for the info on the stereo upgrade.
> > That was a fun little project.
> > I used a dremel to cut out the dash. It worked fine, but you really
>have to
> > take your time.
> > I started at 1 in the afternoon and didnt get done till 8. So if
>anyone is
> > thinking of cutting into
> > your dash, pen in a whole days worth of cutting.
>
>Forgive my ignorance, but why/what did you have to cut?
>I'm not yet a D owner, but hope to be soon. And the first thing I plan
>to do is upgrade the stereo, so this thread is of great interest to me.
>
>Thanks, Paul D.



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 04:01:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights not Working

Don't forget to check out the tail light boards. Very common to have
intermittant connections at the rivets. A quick fix is to put tiny
screws and nuts through them. I think it is on dmcnews.com look under
the technical section. Carefully check the bulbs. They should be clean
and springy in the sockets. Reshape them if you have to so that the
spring holds them up against the pins and use a wire brush to clean
the socket, a plumber's wire brush for copper tubing works great. It
is also common to have a bad bulb that looks good. Remove it from the
socket and flick it with your finger. If you see the filiment wiggle
on 1 side then replace it. Also clean the point that the plug attaches
to the board.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Mine stopped working awhile ago.
> 
> For me, it turned out to be the brake light switch in front of the 





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 04:24:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions

Part of the problem in replacing the tires is that very few tire
manufacturers are making the same type tires (front and rear) in these
different sizes  anymore. We are very fortunate that a company like
Michelin is doing it. They are great tires and you will notice a BIG
difference when you get them on especilly since you had the wrong
tires to begin with. Have the spare tire resealed with Camel Bead
Sealer so it will hold air for more than 1 day while you are there.
Spend the extra couple of $ and get them spin balanced (off the car).
If the car has never been aligned it would be a good time to have that
checked out too. I would make sure that these tires are supposed to be
on those rims you bought from Don. It is possible that the rims are
not correct for the origional size tires. Have the rims measured
before you spend the money on the tires. The tire shop should be able
to confirm that the rims would work. Some rims have a different offset
that requires additional spacers in the rear. Call Don before you
spend any more money. If the car was lowered you could also have
clearance problems with different offsets. If the rims are the
origional ones, but chromed, you should be OK.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Fronts 195/60HR14 23PSI
> Rears 235/60HR15 30PSI
> 
> This info should also be on a sticker on your glove box lid.
> 





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:18:22 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Bulletin Board

[Moderator note: As the DML is very busy right now and this topic will not appeal to most subscribers, please respond to Alex by private email.
- moderator Mike Substelny]


Has anyone considered putting together a bulletin board for the DML? Or,
is there a good bulletin board out there?

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships
210-231-4214
210-393-0346 (cell)
 

 




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:36:17 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: cluth release bearing

Cecil, Valeo made the change a while back. Take a look at the old VS the new
on the site. Also the plastic inside was a good improvement. No more shaft
binding or squeak as it moves back and fourth.
John Hervey
  http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html




-----Original Message-----
From: Cecil Longwisch [mailto:dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 3:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] cluth release bearing


> I purchased a new cluth release bearing from a DeLorean supplier and when
> comparing it to the old one they are not the same. The old one strongly
> clips to the yoke while the new one has a tang on one side that sort of
> clips and the other side is straight. The center hole guide is a plastic
> type material on the old one and the new one is all metal.
> My concerns are it does not seem to be attached as well to the yoke as the
> old original one and the metal against metal is less desirable for the cener
> hole.
>
> Has anyone else seen this and should this be of concern?
> I actually considered using the old carrier for the the new bearing but it
> has one of the ears broken off which is probably why it was making an
> undesirable noise.
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 00:20:22 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Lights not Working

Alex,
The brake light switch doesn't go out or bad very often The biggest problem
is the PC boards that the tail lights are mounted on and the 3 metal
connections that are riveted to the board with. I have a process of cleaning
the original boards, soldering the connections to last and then sealing the
boards with a water proof clear paint that makes them look like new again
but seals them from water and moisture. I normally charge $15.00 per board
and they should last another 20 years. If you want to up grade then P.J.
Grady sells an Epoxy glass board up grade that would also last another 20
years.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Wolf [mailto:alex_at_dml_ancira.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 8:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brake Lights not Working


> Ok, this makes me nervous. Is there a common issue with the brake lights
> not working? Something easy to check?
> 
> Alex Wolf
> Internet Manager
> Ancira Dealerships



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 00:10:02 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Technical Manual vs. Workshop Manual

Dave,
My simple explanation is . The workshop shows you how to take it off and put
it on. The technical manual tells you how it's supposed to operate.
In my business and for the DML I find the Technical more valuable than the
work shop. But for someone just wanting to take it off and put another one
on then it's the workshop. But, If you will notice on the DML the questions
and answer's are more coming out of the Technical. I don't see a lot of
questions of how to take off an idle speed motor, it how does this thing
work.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 10:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Technical Manual vs Workshop Manual


> OK, so maybe I should know this already but what does the Technical Manual
> have that my Workshop Manual doesn't and were is the best place to get a
> copy of the Technical Manual?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave & 6530



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:50:07 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: spare fuel distributor

hi,

I have a spare fuel distributor (in fact complete engine) and it has been
sitting a while.  it was running when taken outta service but has been
sitting for at least 1 year with no fuel in it on an engine stand in the
garage.  what can I do to preserve it in case it is further needed??

Darkstar
10246





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:43:00 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights not Working

Alex,

There is indeed a common issue with the brake lights not working.  Almost
every problem is a result of the weak and weathered taillight circuit
boards.  The fixes are both easy: you can repair the originals with some
screws from radio shack, or if you're lazy (like me), you can replace them
with the Grady boards and never think about them again.

The Grady ones are a tremendous piece that I deem worth the value-added
cost.

Jake Kamphoefner
Representin' me and 1063


----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 8:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Brake Lights not Working


> Ok, this makes me nervous. Is there a common issue with the brake lights
> not working? Something easy to check?
>
> Alex Wolf
> Internet Manager
> Ancira Dealerships



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 06:07:48 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

If you don't want to cut the dash, you can buy a pre-cut stereo adapter from 
DMCH for $150


>From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
>Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 02:48:31 +0000
>
>Hey Paul D.
>You have to cut the dash because the craig radio that is in there is only
>about a half-din size.
>You will see when you get your D.
>Basicly you have to make the opening bigger to except the normail DIN size
>cd/radio player.
>
>
>Dustin
>006746

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 06:30:59 -0000
From: "doki_pen" <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness [Engine]

David,

I couldn't agree more with you.  I noticed the insulation on mine 
sure took a beating being so close to the cylinder heads and being 
pinched under there.  Seems like running it underneath is asking for 
troubles down the road.  Thanks David, receiving advice from someone 
as knowledgeable as yourself is a great benefit to being part of 
this group.

Thank you to all for your input, I think this is an important issue 
because electrical problems are no joke.  Especially when you have a 
wiring harness that ends at the alternator! :) There's alot of amps 
going on over there, and the wrong wire shorted to the manifold, 
especially near the fuel/air system can spell big time troubles.  I 
think function is much more important than form in this matter.

Jon Weiner
#3215

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Run the wiring harness any way you like. The "correct" origional 
way
> is over the top. In fact there was a bulletin to strap tie it and 
tuck
> it into the clips. The important things here are to keep it away 
from
> heat, don't try to stretch it, and keep it away from the throttle
> linkage where it can get caught. I like it on top so I can see it, 
if
> it is underneath it can get damaged and you wouldn't see it. Check 
out
> the wire running down the left side to the oil pressure light. On 
most
> cars that wire is so cooked and brittle the insulation is long 
gone.
> It will make the oil light flash when it touches metal. A case 
of "out
> of sight, out of mind". A way to "fix" it is to slide a heat 
resistant
> cover over it or you can splice in a piece of wire that is more 
heat
> resistant.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> > Jon - The wiring harness that you refer to is supposed to lay 
over 
> > the top of the intake, in the position that you placed it in.  
Many 
> > people dislike the appearance of the wires draped over the 
intake, 
> > and have hidden them.  I admit that I have done the same thing.  
If 
> > done carefully, there is no significant stress to the wires and




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 08:21:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Does Lack Of Smog Pump/ EGR Cause Long Term Damage To DeLo Converter?

David Teitelbaum and I are basically saying the same thing -- excess
unburned fuel damages a catalytic converter (what does removing a smog
pump do -- eliminates continued burn in the exhaust stream, leaving
excess unburned fuel. I compound the problem by eliminating EGR too).

The question is: does lack of a DeLo smog pump (and EGR -- that's what
the blocked off ports in the U pipes are for) by design cause long
term damage to its converter?

Did JZD misuse a converter designed for other emissions components?

Volvo was air injecting and exhaust gas recirculating the exact same
block in its North American imports.

Even if the DeLo converter is adequate for an F series engine, is E
series by nature too rich (something to consider before swapping fuel
distributers and CPR's).

Bill Robertson
#5939






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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 13:11:45 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>
Subject: ST.PATS PARADE ATLANTA SEDOC


The Atlanta ST. Patrick's day parade will be this saturday the 13th.

SEDOC WILL PARTICIPATE AND INVITES ALL DELOREAN OWNERS IN THE AREA TO 
PARTICIPATE.

Please contact John Jordan at 404 562 6075 during the day or 770 714 
4850 after hours to participate

Thanks
delor1





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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:13:37 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tax value of D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DeLorean5000_at_dml_c... wrote:
> My car lives in North Carolina.  Each county in NC has a tax value 
assigned to each piece of property that you own 
<SNIP>
>My question to the group is, if you don't mind sharing, 
is.......what is your tax value(if it applies) and has it gone up 
since last year?

I live in Nevada, and tax values here decline each year, as the 
vehicles age, and are devalued. So I don't have a situation that's 
really 100% matching your's.

However, I am curious about those values that they've placed on your 
car. What is their source for these car values, and how exactly are 
they calculating the taxes that they're trying to assess on your car? 
Here they devalue the MSRP over how many years old the car is (30% 
first year, and X% every year after that), and then tax the value 
that the car comes out to. $9K is quite a tax jump in one year. 
Question them on their method, and see if perhaps you can haggle it 
down.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:40:20 -0500
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Seeking Local Mentor

I would be happy to help. I too, like you, knew nothing about this car when I bought mine. Since then I have learned almost every normal repair there is and all the normal maintenance. I feel very comfortable doing almost anything on this car short of the major stuff. Cosmetically, after 2 years, I feel my car now looks very nice....I also drove up to Hanover, PA last year to help someone inspect a car that was in bad shape.

Another local owner, Rich A., and I have done a lot of work on his car as well. Rich has succesfully taken his engine apart and lived to tell about it. I know he would help out with any questions/problems you have. We wil lalso tell you whcih tools you will need owning this car...

I live in MD just south of Baltimore. Just email me off list  billsfanmd(at)aol.com  and we can work out a plan to have you drive down and we can spend some time going over your entire car. We have had several mini tech sessions and people leave with a fully belly and lots of stuff done on their cars.

Mike C
2109



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:16:31 -0600
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate

[Moderator note: This is the only point of reference post I'll allow to this thread.  I'm rejecting all the posts about pollution controls on other cars.
- moderator Mike Substelny]


As a point of reference, my '87 Corvette has an air pump (and 3, count them
THREE cats!) and it is of course fuel injected.  I know Corvettes used them
well into the 1990s.  Not sure if they still do but I would wager that if
the Corvettes had them, other (at least GM) cars had them too.

Al

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Great Stopped Up Catalytic Converter Debate


<snip>
the car and adds the complexity of another system. I don't know of any
fuel injected car that has an air pump with a catalytic converter. The
<snip>




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:29:20 -0000
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Doing the sums on Don Steger's chrome wheels.

Hi Robert,

I don't see how you have spent $1800.

You spent $1700 initially, of which you get $800 back. So you've 
spent $900. Then add the cost of shipping and switching your tires, 
and you have spent another $100, so $1000 in total.

You say that you are losing out on a set of wheels worth $800, and so 
add this onto how much money you are out, which doesn't make sense! 
You are forgetting you are getting another set of wheels back (worth 
at least $800). The value of the newly refurbished wheels should 
easily surpass the value of the original wheels that probably had 
peeling paint and scuffs, so these cancel each other out. The most 
you are out is $1000.

Sorry, but I don't think its fair to Don Steger to say that you 
got "hosed" on this deal. Don doesn't post here, so cannot defend 
himself. I've heard nothing but good things about him and his 
company, and if I was living in CA he would definitely be my choice 
of shop to work on my car. $1000 sounds like a great deal to me for 
this upgrade.

Can you please post pictures somewhere where we can see the wheels?

Thanks,
Best wishes,
John Dore, Ireland.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> I bought a set of Steger's chromed rims and have them sitting here 
in
> the middle of the living room gleaming.
> For those of you curous about them, I think they look damn good, 
> but I am not sure if they are a good value.
> They cost $800.00 + core.
> The deposit on the exchange is $800, so you need to fork over about
> $1700 or so initially, and then you need to pay to have your tires
> switched and then send the rims back.
> This is an out of pocket costs of over $1000 if you keep your own
> tires....Not to mention loosing your old rims, which appearantly are
> worth $800 to Don Steger so I suppose you could get that for a
> set....meaning you are spending about $1800, or $450.00 per rim!
> Damn, now that I think about it I feel hosed!
> You can buy some damned nice rims for that sort of bread!
>>>
> Thanks.
> - Videobob
> VIN# 5278




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:52:45 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Alternator Upgrade.

Hi everyone!!!
I was just wondering if anyone has upgraded their old Delorean alternator 
for any of the new models that are out there. I am looking at the Maxi Brute 150+ that they have on
www.specialtauto.com
This thing looks awesome. But if I upgrade to this one, is it more that what 
I need? I am planning on running a high end stereo and maybe some neon lights under the  car.
Anyway, I need some advice on this one. Thanks!!!

Dustin
006746



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 11:47:24 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tax value of D

[Moderator note: This thread is getting old fast.  If someone wants to collect more data on the subject please feel free to start a Poll.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

I live in SC.  My Delorean property taxes were less that $20 ($14 comes to
mind) if you don't count the tag "fee".

Of course when I purchased it they registered it twice as a 2001 Delorean
purchased for $12,000 and as a 1982 purchased for $12,000.  I was initially
taxed at $15 based on the 1982 registration.  The following year I received
two notices (one for an 1982 and one for a 2001 Delorean both with the same
serial number) and of course the accessor would only accept the larger bill
as valid ($300) for the 2001 year model Delorean.  You would not believe how
much trouble it was to convince them it was an 1982 model.  Even though the
serial number and door plate said it was a 1982, it wasn't "proof".

I love bureaucracy!

Ed
10541




----- Original Message ----- 

My question to the group is, if you don't mind sharing, is.......what is
your tax value(if it applies) and has it gone up since last year?



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 13:23:58 -0500
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Seeking Local Mentor

[Moderator note: The DML is busy this week.  Please send further responses to Scott by private e-mail.   -moderator Mike Substelny]

I am in Rockland County - Pearl River, NY and would ne willing to help you out
if I can.

let me know.

Regards,

Michael
vin 6067



Quoting Scott McMullan <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>:

> 
> I've had my DeLorean since July.  I love owning it, I love driving it.
> Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or experience to give it the care it
> deserves.
> 
> I've had a dickens of a time finding a local shop that I'm comfortable with
> that wants to work on my car.
> I could possibly afford to have it worked on up at Grady's, but it's just
> too darned far away to drive the car there, especially when it's
> misbehaving.
> 
> I'm having a tough time getting to the point where I am confident that I've
> found the right projects to focus on to ensure my car's safety and
> reliability.
> 
> This forum is a great place to swap knowledge, but so often I read a post
> that says something like "check for vacuum leaks" which sounds simple, but
> actually doing the work implies a level of knowledge, and availability of
> tools that I just don't have.  I'm a smart guy, but I don't have serious car
> maintenance experience, and I don't feel comfortable starting with a few
> posts or pictures off the web, and ripping key components off my engine.
> 
> I'm looking for someone within a reasonable distance of Philadelphia to help
> me out.  Someone who is more comfortable with the mechanical work than I am,
> knows these cars and their engines pretty well, and who is willing to help
> get me going.  I'm trainable, and can buy parts and tools, but I feel like
> I'm floundering, and I'm concerned that I may not be doing the right thing
> by my car.  I'll be happy to supply food, drink, lodging (if you don't mind
> furry critters... we do animal rescue) and a pair of willing (but inexpert)
> hands.  I could also drive my car and some supplies to a local place if that
> makes things more doable.
> 
> Anyone out there have some time and experience they could lend for some
> in-person assistance?



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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 18:36:31 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: clutch release bearing

Cecil -

It sounds to me like you received one of the early release bearings 
instead of a later one. Based on your VIN you should have one like 
you took off, with the plastic insert. If you got one of the ones 
that's all metal, then you got one for an early, early car, like a 
less than 1000 VIN. Only a few hundred cars used this style part.

Sonny V.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:
> I purchased a new cluth release bearing from a DeLorean supplier 
and when 
> comparing it to the old one they are not the same. The old one 
strongly 
> clips to the yoke while the new one has a tang on one side that 
sort of 
> clips and the other side is straight. The center hole guide is a 
plastic 
> type material on the old one and the new one is all metal.
> My concerns are it does not seem to be attached as well to the yoke 
as the 
> old original one and the metal against metal is less desirable for 
the cener 
> hole .
> 
> Has anyone else seen this and should this be of concern?
> I actually considered using the old carrier for the the new bearing 
but it 
> has one of the ears broken off which is probably why it was making 
an 
> undesirable noise.
> 
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 18:35:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH (Stainless Steel Illusion II)

Let's not get the two North Carolinia "Bill's" mixed up either...

Re: Marc L's impression of Stainless Steel Illusion II -- I did not
find the new chapter confusing at all. Clearly identifies that Houston
purchased unused inventories to sell aftermarket. I also seem to
remember it devoted as much print to the DML as DMCH (don't have the
book in front of me at the moment). 

Re: DMCH in general -- as owners of limited production automobiles
from a manufacturer that no longer exists, we can't throw too many
incindiaries around. The MORE suppliers, the better. Of course Houston
isn't perfect (in fact there's another slightly controversial vendor I
prefer more and thus do most of my shopping with). But let's be
honest: for items such as SSI, where else would you go without them? I
wasn't willing to pay several hundred dollars for the copies in
circulation before SSI II, *WHICH IS THE SAME BOOK* (simply skip the
last chapter if it offends).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I feel the same Bill,
> 
> If all of the vendors decided to not source new parts or have out of 
> stock parts re-made we would not be driving our cars for long because 
> the NOS parts would disappear.
> 
> I also wanted to point out i am NOT the Mark Bill was referring to in 
> Bills last post. I will now sign my posts with my last initial i just 
> don't want you to get the Mark's confused with each other.
> 
> Mark V
> 6683

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 13:45:54 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Tires (again?) XGT's Chrome and other dumb questions

In a message dated 3/10/04 11:29:09 AM Central Standard Time, 
videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> This is an out of pocket costs of over $1000 if you keep your own
> tires....Not to mention loosing your old rims, which appearantly are
> worth $800 to Don Steger so I suppose you could get that for a
> set....meaning you are spending about $1800, or $450.00 per rim!
> Damn, now that I think about it I feel hosed!
> You can buy some damned nice rims for that sort of bread!
> Also, the black paint on the inside seems like it would come off easily.
> There was a lot of overspray in little bits on the front of the rim
> and I could easily scratch it off with my finger nail.
> So time will tell.

>>>>>
I don't see how you come up with a $450 per rim figure.
Here's the way I see it:
$800 for rims +$800 core (refunded upon Don's receipt of your rims) plus 
$100(?) shipping.   that comes out to $800 + $100 = $900 (since the 2nd $800 is 
refunded) divided by four wheels = $225 per rim + tires (which is an expense you 
should be bearing regardless since you don't even have the right size tires 
in the first place, so you can't count that against Don).  Think of it this 
way: you are giving your OEM rims to Don so he can chrome them and paint the 
insides for $225 per wheel.  that's really all it is except you don't get the 
exact same wheels you sent him.  the $225 would include repairing and machining 
the wheels, prepping them, dipping them, and whatever else is necessary to paint 
the insides.  

If you shopped around, you would find that $225/rim is a pretty reasonable 
cost if you were to replace them with something else, AND the $800+core is more 
or less the same deal ALL DMC vendors charge weather you want painted, 
chromed, polished, or machined OEM wheels.  

The only valid point I see is whether or not they will stand the test of time 
and the elements.  I'm sure if they didn't last at least a couple of years 
Don would work somethng out with you - he is a great guy!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 14:03:16 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

> If you don't want to cut the dash, you can buy a pre-cut stereo adapter from 
> DMCH for $150


Rob Grady did this for me as well, except that he cut a NOS radio bracket.  I sent him the DIN bracket for my new radio, and he cut it to a perfect fit.  The pre-cut adapters from DMCH need to be prepped and painted, while the NOS units are already covered in black vinyl.  It's just another option for everyone, but call Rob first to see if he is still doing this.

-Hank Eskin



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