From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1916
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2004 3:30 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Houston Experience
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

2. Re: Car Alarm Question
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>

3. RE: Windshields ?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Scoping out the dwell and RTFM
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Stereo System upgrade.
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Re: Hot Start #2
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

7. Re: Houston Experience
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. POR-15 or powder coating?
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Two electrical questions
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. LED lights
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Stereo System upgrade (William F)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. RE: Car Alarm Question
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Hot Start #2
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. RE: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

15. Re: HOWTO #15 released today
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Continued: No Smog Pump on DeLo PRV
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: VIN 717
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

18. Parking in NYC
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

19. Trapped in "Bearing Hell"
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

20. Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. question about battery life
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

22. Re: Emblem Removal
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways
From: Mark DeLoura <madsax_at_dml_satori.org>

24. Any DeLorean Owners on Oahu?
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>

25. Re: John Z. De Lorean's name
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:20:55 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Houston Experience

Ah I am not too worried about it. After they put it up on the lift, they
showed me that most everything else was ok on the car. Typical things,
interior work, need transmission mounts, and a small leak from a sensor
that they said was common. Also, it needs one of the boots on the front,
and the reinforcement recall on the front. Even if I spend $5300 on a
new engine, I'm still in the car for around $15k, which leaves financial
room to do some interior stuff. Also, I have the old engine which is
blown, and possibly rebuild able. Also included in the deal was BOXES of
parts and a spare passenger door. The PO was unaware that the engine
wasn't Delorean. Even after seeing the two side by side, I STILL can't
tell the two apart, they look exactly the same.

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships


-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 4:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Houston Experience

It sounds like you should have visited DMCH BEFORE you bought this
car. At the very least you might have had the car inspected by someone
familiar with Deloreans before you plunked down your money for this
particular car. Your anger should have been directed at the person you
bought the car from, not the shop that explained what you did to
yourself. Steve and James will help you spend your money now trying to
get it right but you could have avoided this by either buying another
car or barganing the price on this one to account for all the repairs
that it will need. In the long run you are always better off having
the car serviced by someone who knows what they are doing. Even a call
to DMCH before might have tipped you off as to the car's condition,
DMCH keeps records on all the cars they service. Even if they couldn't
tell you anything about this car than that in itself would be a
warning because the car is so close that they SHOULD know all about
it. Be prepared to spend a lot more as you use the car and find other
things that aren't right. When you don't do your "homework" before
buying a car you know nothing about you get yourself into situations
like this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 23:29:57 -0500
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Question

Hey,

I was just talking with James La Londe today about the alarm he has
installed... But he uses the remote actually just to open his locks.. He
isnt even sure if the alarm is working...

What i would think is, if you dont want the alarm to be connected with ur
locks, u would need to turn off the alarm before you open the doors OR you
create a relais based electrical system that shuts the alarm of when u
unlock the car!...

Florian
----- Original Message -----
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Car Alarm Question


> Now that I've moved, my DeLorean will have to be parked in a parking
> lot thats in town once its back on the road- I feel kind of nervous
> even thinking about it knowing the kind people in this world-so I'm
> planning on installing a car alarm. I'm looking at one thats a LCD
> pager alarm-its pretty interesting, although any alarm I get I don't
> plan on hooking anything to the door locks-I only want my key to
> control the lock-not a button. I know that even a car alarm can't keep
> a good car theif out but-somethings better then nothing. Anyway, I'm
> sure that there are others who've installed alarms in their DeLorean
> so, what do you guys suggest? how difficult is it to install the alarm
> knowing the reputation of DeLorean electrics? Please let me know any
> suggestions at all. Thanks again guys for your past and future
> responses. Dan Benedek #05003



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:35:27 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Windshields ?

If you can get it to DMCH in Houston that might be the only way to go, 
otherwise have them send you one.
I got one from them and it is perfect.
Cost about $550 installed.
- VB


>From: trevor mcdonald <trevor4bbg208_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Windshields ?
>Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 14:29:43 -0800 (PST)
>
>Hello,
>
>         I am in need of a windshield for my DeLorean, Mine is cracked 
>beyond repair and I need to find a replacement. Does anyone have a used one 
>they would like to sell? or know where to find one. I have heard the OEM 
>ones are having de-laminating problems from sitting?? so I am not sure if I 
>should go that route or not?. What about aftermarket mabye? I am in Canada 
>(east coast) so the closer the better if possible.  I would really 
>appreciate any feedback.
>
>Thanks,



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 04:39:44 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Scoping out the dwell and RTFM

Dwell angle is normally the measure of difference between the time 
contact is made on points and when contact is broken. For example 
you increase dwell by reducing the point gap or decrease dwell by 
increasing gap. Equal time open and closed is different for a 4, 6 
or 8 cylindar engine. On a 4 cylinder equal time open and closed 
would yield 45 degrees for example - on a 6 it would be 30 degrees. 
So, I suspect the testing and setting readings are most accurate 
when the dwell is set for a 4 cylinder engine that has an equal open 
and close of 45 degrees dwell angle.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Could someone explain why the dwell meter has to be set to 4 
cylinder 
> scale? I just set up my CO a while back with the meter on the 6 
> cylinder scale. Could this be a typo in the technical info manual?
> 
> Thanks! 
> adam
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
> wrote:
> > Page 122 of Technical Information Manual - set the dwell meter 
to 4 
> > cylinder scale.
> > 
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> > 
> >




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:47:53 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade.

The console plate that the original Craig radio is mounted to is the old 
style, when you open it up you will understand.
The center of the radio pokes though and the knobs come through little 
holes.
All of the new radios now are "DIN" and much the same size (unless it is a 
custom mount
like some of the GM's).
If you are skilled like a surgeon with a cutting tool, and can cut out the 
panel leaving a 1/4" line
in-between the radio mount and the AC outlet, then you can modify yours at 
no cost.
Most people are unsuccessful with it.
You can by the new reproduction plate from Houston for $150.00 that is a 
stamped out
piece of Aluminum.
You will need to paint it black, I used a texturized BBQ grill paint for 
mine and it looks great.
You may then simply slide your new radio in.

Next you will want a radio wire harness adapter, you can get one from me at
http://www.dfwdmc.com for $12.99.
This will allow you to plug in your new radio directly into the harness 
without cutting into
your original wire harness.
This will also let you use all of your existing wires with out running new 
ones.

You might want to replace your speakers because they are only 15 WATT, 6OHM 
and you will
blow them with a new high powered stereo in about 10 seconds.
You need 3-1/2" for under the dash.
I recommend the Rockford Fozgates, you need to get speakers that are flush 
on top with
no external tweeter.
Otherwise you will need to use washers or spacers to offset the speaker from 
rubbing the
dash at the top.
The speaker is easy to get out, but a hassle to put back in.

The BACK speakers just SUCK.
They are 4x10's, hard to find and harder to get to.
You may want to just find the wires, cut them and put a few 6x9's in the 
back wall.
There are a lot of speaker boxes out there that will fit on the back shelf 
just fine,
but if you do something like that, you will need an AMP and you will want to 
run it directly from
the battery, and you will also most likely want to upgrade your Alternator.
I recommend the 150 AMP BRUTE from John Hervey, http://www.specialtauto.com

That will do it!
- Videobob
VIN#5278



>From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Stereo System upgrade.
>Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:15:00 EST
>
>Question!  Me = newbie.
>
>If I were to add, say, a Sony CD receiver, I'd have to cut the dash, 
>correct?
>  Because the original Craig is approx. 1/2 DIN size.
>
>Fair enough.
>
>How then, exactly, would getting a new mounting bracket resolve the cutting
>issue?  If the opening in the dash is only 1/2 DIN size... then the dash 
>would
>still have to be cut, correct?  And in turn, wouldn't that invalidate the
>point of getting a new mounting bracket?
>
>Forgive my ignorance.  Be gentle in respones.  =D
>
>Regards,
>William F.



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 00:02:01 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start #2

Harold McElraft wrote:

>Have you tried to activate the cold start valve during the two hour 
>period to see if that would start the engine? That is the usual 
>short cut to starting when the fuel accumulator is going out. Also, 
>another way to confirm low rest pressure is to allow the fuel pump 
>to pressurize a few times before starting by turning the key to run -
> listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds and stop, repeat 
>that step a few times by turning the key off and then back to run, 
>and then try to start the engine?
>
>  
>
If you read, I stated that swapping the plugs does not allow it to start.

>If you are using the proper gauge it is valved to check the control 
>pressure and then block it to test the primary pressure. The control 
>pressure changes dramatically from cold to hot. Incorrect control 
>pressure can yield all sorts of symptoms including the ones you 
>describe. I can't tell if you have measured the fuel pressure 
>correctly but it sounds like a bad accumulator or fuel pressure 
>regulator.
>  
>
>  
>
Everyone keeps telling me to use a proper guage. The only guage I could 
obtain is one that cuts the flow off from 1 side and yet no one has been 
able to state if i measured control pressure or the primary pressure. 
I'm done guessing the problem. I still have a hot start, I've replaced 
and checked the things people say, and yet it continues to happen.

Samuel




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 04:58:27 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Houston Experience

Most of us on the list also believe DMCH is a great group of people. 
I am delighted but not surprised you had a good experience. I am 
curious about how they knew right away that the engine replacement 
was the wrong one. Did they explain?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I just want to share my experience with the guys at DMCH. I drove 4
> hours to get as fuel pump changed, which I THOUGHT was going to 
cost
> $350. When I got there, the first mechanic that looked at the car 
on the
> trailer said he didn't even want to work on it. As it turns out, 
the
> "new" engine that had been put in the car was the wrong engine. It 
was a
> Renault B-26, which is .2 liters smaller than the stock Delorean 
engine.
> About then I was terribly pissed off, being that I had laid out 
all this
> money the week before for a car that was supposed to be a "super" 
good
> deal. After a lot of deliberation, Steven, the owner, came out and
> calmed me down quite a bit. Several of the guys there pushed the 
car in
> to the garage, which was a chore in itself also because the "new"
> calipers were the wrong ones, and they locked up. The brake pads 
were
> locked against the rotors. Now, I am in a GREAT mood. Steven 
showed me
> around the warehouse, gave me a tour of the place and I was 
instantly
> overwhelmed by the magnitude of it. Amazing. So, they go to work 
on the
> fuel pump. When they pulled it out, they discovered, that the tank 
had a
> TON of soot in it, the rubber boot was dissolved, and so on so 
forth.
> Also, the lines to and from the accumulator were damaged. So, a 
$350 job
> went to an $800 job in a heartbeat. Well, while they were fixing 
it,
> someone discovered a fix to the calipers. Some part, and I don't 
recall
> which one, was left off. Easy $100 fix. What impressed me was that 
they
> didn't try to tell me they couldn't be fixed, they told me the 
truth,
> which is not something that you get from mechanics often (I work 
at a
> chain of dealerships, I know what goes on!) My fist experience with
> these guys was impressive. James and Steven took time to calm me 
and my
> wife down, and went over a LOT of things I could do myself, but 
could
> have easily told me they needed to do. Being the newbie I am, I 
wouldn't
> have known any better. I don't come from a technical background, 
so when
> they lifted the car up and showed me what was going on, I was 
completely
> clueless. They didn't treat me like I was a moron; they just 
explained
> it to me. Both my wife and I left happy, (a new fuel system, fixed
> calipers, new door struts, brake switch, and some pads later) and 
will
> be returning to get service done there. Hands down, what a good
> experience! Thanks guys!
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:03:15 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: POR-15 or powder coating?

The Gas tank cover on my Delorean has some rust on it and I'm sure 
more under the old epoxy. I am going to bring it in soon to get it 
sandblasted and I was thinking; what would be better painting it with 
POR-15 or bringing it in and having it powder coated? I'm pretty sure 
that both will give adequete protection but I am not that familiar 
with powder coating.




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:11:06 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Two electrical questions

I am cleaning up the doors on my delorean and I noticed a wire coming 
off of the door harness that is not pluged into anything. It is the 
same on both doors. I was wondering if this is normal or if it goes 
somewhere. I know that the original owner took this car in to a 
regular mechanic years back and they made a lot of bad fixes to this 
car. 

The wire is yellow with a white stripe. It is right above the door 
lock solenoid and on the same branch of wire as the solenoid 
connector wires.

And, is there an updated relay for the interior dimming lights? Its 
not a big deal, but the lights dont dim and shut of uniformly as the 
newer ones do. They dim to about half their luminocity and then shut 
off intead of completely fading out.




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:34:37 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: LED lights

I have been looking for a good example of LED lights to use in the
dash, the console and etc... aGOOGLE search resulted these:

http://www.lunaraccents.com/wired%20leds.htm

Check them out and tell me if you think they are perfect or if
you know something better.
I would love to find a direct plug in replacement, but these seem
to be a good solution, being 12 volts with the resister built in
and $9 each.
- VB
VIN#5278




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:23:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo System upgrade (William F)

The bracket IS the dash in that area. The console merely frames it in
padded vinyl. That's why Henry mentioned in Message #39530 that Grady
sold him one already covered -- there are exposed bits (very little
but they would be obvious if left bare metal).

These pages from the Parts Manual sort of explain:
http://www.pjgrady.com/partcat_detail.asp?m=92&t=Electrical%2F+Mechanical+Controls&ad=13
http://www.pjgrady.com/partcat_detail.asp?m=106&t=Dashboard%2F+Console&ad=20

Think of it like a Mason jar lid: assembled it looks like one
integrated unit, but disassembled you can see that the outer piece
merely wraps around the inner piece.

Cutting a new radio opening is really not that difficult. Hundreds
(thousands?) of other owners have already done it.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Question!  Me = newbie.
> 
> If I were to add, say, a Sony CD receiver, I'd have to cut the dash,
correct? 
>  Because the original Craig is approx. 1/2 DIN size.
> 
> Fair enough.
> 
> How then, exactly, would getting a new mounting bracket resolve the
cutting 
> issue?  If the opening in the dash is only 1/2 DIN size... then the
dash would 
> still have to be cut, correct?  And in turn, wouldn't that
invalidate the 
> point of getting a new mounting bracket?
> 
> Forgive my ignorance.  Be gentle in respones.  =D
> 
> Regards,
> William F.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:55:58 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Car Alarm Question

One of the best things to add is a car cover.
Wal-Mart has a good one that is water proof for about $50 or so.
I use it.
If people don't see it they will usually leave it alone.

If you do get an alarm, get the good one that has an interactive remote.

It is unlikely that someone will break into and actually get in because of 
the
complicated door mechanism, but you may get vandalized.
That is the biggest problem.
Since a perp can't just key it, they will try to break off a mirror, a light
or flat the tire.
I once heard of someone running over the top of the car smashing the 
louvers.

I recommend the car cover because, I park my car outside and all the time 
there is
some wanker coming into my yard and taking pictures of it.
The other night at 11PM some a-hole was ringing the doorbell while my wife 
was
here alone, she didn't answer the door.
I have a security camera on the car at all times and she watched this dumb-f 
stand around
and take video of the car for about 10 minutes.
If I had been here I would have flipped.
I told her next time to let "Mojo" (our 125 Rotti) out on the front lawn and 
fires off a couple
of rounds from my Desert Eagle.
If he wants to see a DeLorean he can go rent BTTF.
These idiots have ZERO respect for us and our cars, they touch them and get 
their
greasy finger prints all over them, and I can promise if they think no one 
is watching they
will try to take a souvenir with them.

Get a car cover!

- Videobob
VIN#5278


>From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Car Alarm Question
>Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 03:31:23 -0000
>
>Now that I've moved, my DeLorean will have to be parked in a parking
>lot thats in town once its back on the road- I feel kind of nervous
>even thinking about it knowing the kind people in this world-so I'm
>planning on installing a car alarm. I'm looking at one thats a LCD
>pager alarm-its pretty interesting, although any alarm I get I don't
>plan on hooking anything to the door locks-I only want my key to
>control the lock-not a button. I know that even a car alarm can't keep
>a good car theif out but-somethings better then nothing. Anyway, I'm
>sure that there are others who've installed alarms in their DeLorean
>so, what do you guys suggest? how difficult is it to install the alarm
>knowing the reputation of DeLorean electrics? Please let me know any
>suggestions at all. Thanks again guys for your past and future
>responses. Dan Benedek #05003



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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:46:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Hot Start #2

Did anyone catch this paragraph? Over advanced ignition is always hard
to start. That's one of the snafu's for people who like to time their
cars by ear at the threshhold of pre-ignition.

I wonder if Samuel's "backfires" are true backfires (through the
intake) or actually muffler explosions (though the exhaust) -- two
distinctly different problems with different possible causes. 

Note David T had electrical suspicions, not fuel delivery -- an old
mechanic once told me 9 out of 10 engine problems are electrical. My
experiences on many different makes/models of vehicles have since
proven him correct.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> When the car is cold, it will backfire at times, this goes away once it 
> is warm. It appears to be always advancing. Currently, the thermal 
> vacuum switch under the intake manifold is bypassed (just havent gotten 
> in there to connect it up).
> 





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 03:21:32 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: RE: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways

Orignally, by birth, it should just be Delorean. But JZD wanted it to
appear more exotic and be able to divert attention away from his lineage
by taking putting the space in there and having it seem french.
Tecnically, either is correct.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com

-----Original Message-----
From: F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de [mailto:F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de] 
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but
anyways


Hey guys,

what thing I got into with James today (THANKS ALOT!!!) is that John's
last name is supposed to be "De Lorean" rather than "DeLorean"... so is
that true?

Florian



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 23:59:03 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HOWTO #15 released today

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

jordan 11613



--- Roland Smith <roland_at_dml_dnai.com> wrote:
> I am new to the list.  How do we address these "How
> To" documents?
> 
> Roland Smith
> 6667
> Oakland, California

[moderator snip]



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:24:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: No Smog Pump on DeLo PRV

Relative to recent discussions Re: no smog pump for DeLo catalytic
converter:

While in the junkyard today I studied closely a 1989 Volvo 760 GLE
(which curiously has a B28F, not a B280). It has a single *LARGER*
converter after the Y pipe, and a cam driven air pump (the fellow who
told me the hole in my B27F valve cover is for a fuel pump was wrong
-- it's for an air pump. What I assumed at a glance is an air pump is
in fact an alternator with large diameter pulley/internal cooling fins
-- this car has the same funny alternator in the same location). So
apparently Volvo never was willing to run converters off its PRV's
without additional air in the exhaust stream. This car is Lambda'd BTW
(with the frequency valve attached to the same bracket that holds the
idlespeed microswitch!).

JZD's smog pump-less exhaust may operate at the threshhold of problems.

Note also this car, while CIS, has three non-shear head (adjustable)
screws in its manual idle speed circuit. The balancing screws weren't
snugged down, but the inlet screw was.

Bill Robertson
#5939








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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:43:21 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: VIN 717

Just added pics of engine and interior. Interior is just dusty... 
Engine is stock except the fuel distributor and lines from an Alpine 
or other Renault. No idea of the mileage, but the undercariage is 
clean , frame like new ! Stainless is clean too.
That car sold for $9500. The original blue fan fail relay is still 
in place and in good shape !!
The rims are Gotti wheels, and the new owner already plans to return 
to stock of course.
 Regards
Raphael




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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:00:26 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Parking in NYC


I'm making a trip from Boston to Phila next weekend, and I have to stop for one night in NYC - Upper East Side.  I'm pretty sure I don't want to leave my D on the street overnight, so can anyone from that area suggest a good, safe place to park the car?  I'll be near Park Ave in the 80s/90s.  Please respond privately. thanks.  

thanks,

-Hank



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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:07:28 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Trapped in "Bearing Hell"

I spent 12 lovely hours at the Cohee Estate yesterday trying to 
replace my right rear wheel bearing.

Here's what happened:

I had everything completely dismantled in one hour EXCEPT that we 
were unable to remove the lower link arm bolt. It had rusted to the 
collar of the link arm bushing.

We spent the remaining 11 HOURS trying to remove the bolt (PB 
Blaster, 260 ft/lb air-impact gun, air-chisel and finally a SAWS-ALL)
cutting the bolt away ($40), running to Pep Boys to have the old 
bearing pressed out and the new one ($47) pressed in ($65) and then 
attempting to drill out the link arm bushing.

I am going to cut the other bolt securing the arm to the frame, and 
order a used link arm and bolts ($50) from DPNW because I am tired of 
chewing up drill bits in 30 seconds.

The only gratification I've had during this whole process is noting 
that the old bearing was trash and pratically disinigrated during 
removal. I assuredly would not have made it to Florida for 
the 'Fridge Run. My car is safely stranded in Mike's garage instead 
of being wrecked on I-95.

It totally amazes me how I can tackle a repair that I've never done, 
have it go so smoothly and yet so badly. I have also never seen a 
vehicle so thoroughly neglected and abused in my entire life, that 
every screw, every component seems to be ruined.

Rich A.
#5335

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:55:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)

Wonder how many other DeLo owners are running the same engine?

Your engine, if indeed Renault, is actually a "Z7V" -- comparable to a
Volvo B27E. Displacement is indeed .2 liters smaller than stock DeLo,
but compression is 9.5:1, giving you 145 rated HP. Somebody in Ohio
was marketing these imports in the 1980's to DeLo owners with melted
factory blocks. It's a fine engine used throughout Europe no problem.
I'm running it with great success.

If you are Z7V, be aware there are significant differences from stock
DeLo as far as tuning is concerned. eMail me direct at
brobertson(at)carolina.net and I'll walk you through them.

Please note: your engine isn't "wrong", just different. Both it and
stock DeLo were manufactured in the same factory in Douvrin France.
Renault's design philosophy is a little closer to PRV basics, but you
may discover your new engine is actually more contemporary than the
one it replaced (build date cast into mine is 1983).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I just want to share my experience with the guys at DMCH. I drove 4
> hours to get as fuel pump changed, which I THOUGHT was going to cost
> $350. When I got there, the first mechanic that looked at the car on the
> trailer said he didn't even want to work on it. As it turns out, the
> "new" engine that had been put in the car was the wrong engine. It was a
> Renault B-26, which is .2 liters smaller than the stock Delorean engine.
> About then I was terribly pissed off, being that I had laid out all this
> money the week before for a car that was supposed to be a "super" good
> deal. After a lot of deliberation, Steven, the owner, came out and
> calmed me down quite a bit. Several of the guys there pushed the car in
> to the garage, which was a chore in itself also because the "new"
> calipers were the wrong ones, and they locked up. The brake pads were
> locked against the rotors. Now, I am in a GREAT mood. Steven showed me
> around the warehouse, gave me a tour of the place and I was instantly
> overwhelmed by the magnitude of it. Amazing. So, they go to work on the
> fuel pump. When they pulled it out, they discovered, that the tank had a
> TON of soot in it, the rubber boot was dissolved, and so on so forth.
> Also, the lines to and from the accumulator were damaged. So, a $350 job
> went to an $800 job in a heartbeat. Well, while they were fixing it,
> someone discovered a fix to the calipers. Some part, and I don't recall
> which one, was left off. Easy $100 fix. What impressed me was that they
> didn't try to tell me they couldn't be fixed, they told me the truth,
> which is not something that you get from mechanics often (I work at a
> chain of dealerships, I know what goes on!) My fist experience with
> these guys was impressive. James and Steven took time to calm me and my
> wife down, and went over a LOT of things I could do myself, but could
> have easily told me they needed to do. Being the newbie I am, I wouldn't
> have known any better. I don't come from a technical background, so when
> they lifted the car up and showed me what was going on, I was completely
> clueless. They didn't treat me like I was a moron; they just explained
> it to me. Both my wife and I left happy, (a new fuel system, fixed
> calipers, new door struts, brake switch, and some pads later) and will
> be returning to get service done there. Hands down, what a good
> experience! Thanks guys!
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:08:39 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: question about battery life


This summer, I had my battery replaced with a DieHard (no comments, please).

This winter, my car sat for several weeks at a time, through some below zero temps. At the time, I didn't know it, but the rear parcel shelf light was stuck on, so the battery was entirely drained.  It took about 30 minutes of a jump to get the car started and the battery re-charged.  Since I didn't find the light on the first time, it went through this cycle twice... basically like this:: Summer:NEW--->Winter:drained-->freeze-->charge-->drain-->freeze-->charge.  I had the car out yesterday for a couple of hours, and it was running very well, and the battery seems to be holding the charge.  

    Should I be concerned that the battery has been damaged?  Is there any way to tell?  Or should  just take it back to Sears to test and replace if there is a problem? 

thanks,

-Hank



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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:03:40 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Emblem Removal

In a message dated 3/13/2004 , dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Emblem Removal

I haven't tried it specifically on the Delorean emblem but Goof Off is
a really good product for dissolving glue. You can find it in most
supermarkets. I would squirt it on and let it sit for a while and then try 
pulling a thin wire under it. Keep the Goof Off away from the painted facia. 
Maybe a heat gun
would also soften it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

  Guys, the easiest way to remove emblems which are attached with 3M style 
double backed type adhesive tape, like the Delorean emblem on the hood, is to 
use dental floss. Yep, just pull off a piece of dental floss and wrap it around 
your fingers and work it back and forth under the emblem just like a saw 
blade. It will zip right thru it and won't harm any of the other parts. You then 
only need to use some 3M adhesive remover to get rid of what is left of the 
adhesive / tape. 
    Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:14:29 -0800
From: Mark DeLoura <madsax_at_dml_satori.org>
Subject: Re: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways

Florian Uhlemann <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de> said:
 > what thing I got into with James today (THANKS ALOT!!!) is that 
John's last
 > name is supposed to be "De Lorean" rather than "DeLorean"... so is that
 > true?

That's certainly what I've heard!
   ---Mark De Loura (though I go by Mark DeLoura)

--
Mark DeLoura
Palo Alto, CA USA




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:22:07 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Any DeLorean Owners on Oahu?

Looks like I'm probably moving in August and was wondering if anyone 
here lives on the island or anywhere in Hawaii. If so please contact 
me off the list.


Matthew Stits
VIN 0789




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:41:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: John Z. De Lorean's name

[Moderator Note: this argument has beaten itself to death time and time again in the backissues.  Unless someone has something more definitive (a post by a mamber of JZD's family, for example) you may consider this thread dead.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

Neither are correct. His last name is actually spelled "Delorean". He began fiddling with it after he started becoming successful to make it look more exotic. Reality is his family has no pedigree... they're just a bunch of European peasants. There's also rumors that JZD had several plastic surgeries to make his appearance more distinguished as well. JZD was truly the original "metrosexual" lol.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


--- "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de> wrote:
Hey guys,

what thing I got into with James today (THANKS ALOT!!!) is that John's last
name is supposed to be "De Lorean" rather than "DeLorean"... so is that
true?

Florian



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