From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1917
Date: Monday, March 15, 2004 12:33 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Windshields ?
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Doing the sums on Don Steger's chrome wheels.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Re: Re: VIN 717
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. RE: Re: Houston Experience
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

6. Re: Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

7. Re: Car Alarm Question
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>

8. RE: Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

9. New Angle Drive Question
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. AW: Car Alarm Question
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

11. Re: Re: VIN 717
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

12. Re: question about battery life
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

13. Re: POR-15 or powder coating?
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Re: Emblem removal THANK YOU!
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: POR-15 or powder coating?
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

16. volt meter ground???
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: LED lights
From: "dmc12jp" <hidesuke_at_dml_anet.ne.jp>

18. Rust under T Panel
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Odd louver Vents
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: New Angle Drive Question
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

21. Reduced price on my 1981 DMC-12 VIN#2250
From: "Ken Hintz" <kenhintz_at_dml_netzero.com>

22. Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

23. Re: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

24. RE: volt meter ground???
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Rust under T Panel
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:59:56 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Windshields ?

To: Do you Yahoo!?,

I didnt know that cracks in a windshield could be repaired...

---Dan

;)




Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 14:29:43 -0800 (PST)
From: trevor mcdonald <trevor4bbg208_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Windshields ?

Hello,

        I am in need of a windshield for my DeLorean, Mine is cracked beyond
repair and I need to find a replacement. Does anyone have a used one they
would like to sell? or know where to find one. I have heard the OEM ones are
having de-laminating problems from sitting?? so I am not sure if I should go
that route or not?. What about aftermarket mabye? I am in Canada (east
coast) so the closer the better if possible.  I would really appreciate any
feedback.

Thanks,

Do you Yahoo!?



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:04:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Doing the sums on Don Steger's chrome wheels.

I have had Don's chromed rims on my car for 2 years
now.  They have covered over 15,000 miles including
gravel roads and snow and slush.

As to the paint, it stands up well.  Thhree of my four
wheels still look new.  The paint between the vanes
did begin to flake off on the fourth wheel.  I called
it to Don's attention.  He is having it repainted.

I just don't think I could ask for much more.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867


--- Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know what proceedure Steger is using to do
> the rims.
> I would assume (from my limited knowledge of
> chroming) that
> the rims are dipped in an acid bath to soak the
> paint off,
> then buffed a litte, sometimes they first dip them
> in copper
> and then into chrome I think.
> 
> The chrome looks good, except for the pitting on the
> back inside
> of the rims. Of course this is not viewable to the
> eye.
> My main concern is the black paint on the inside.
> You can easily scratch it off with your finger nail.
> I can tell it won't last.
> 
> They have only been mounted on the car for one day,
> with no driving or
> cleaning yet. I will get some good pictures of them
> and we will see
> how they hold up under everyday use.
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278

[moderator snip]



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:22:59 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG



So you want to own a VERY different Delorean?
Now is your chance to "Tug your Delorean,with a a De lorean "Tug"!!


SO,Here is your chance, Bet you never heard of, or saw one of these 
Deloreans  before!!
JZD,was into Building OTHER Motor Vehicles other than our SS car.
There is a 1981 Delorean for sale on Ebay (Item number: 2466515213)
That is NOT stainless Steel,(and very ugly)and has Chrysler power 
from the factory.Here is a chance to own something other than the 
regular issue "Delorean".
Maybe this was his "NEW Generation" Delorean?

Here is the specs below.  


For Sale is a Super Nice 1981 De Lorean T-40 Aircraft Tug. This tug 
has a Chrystler Slant 6 Engine. New Alternator, New Voltage 
Regulator, New Battery and Cables, New Paint, New Seat, New 
Transmission Seals, New Aircraft Tow Bar Carrier, and New Tires. 
Comes with locking Tow Hooks in front and back. It is a great looker 
and can move just about any general aviation aircraft and most large 
aircraft. This Tug weights 5700 lbs and runs like a dream. Parts for 
this style engine are cheap and easy to find. You can't find a better 
tug for the money. Automatic smooth transmission. Back up light and 
Headlights. Brake lights. Serial NO D1T40-0087. 80HP at 2800RPM. 
Always keeped inside. Heavy duty 1/2 and 3/4 steel on all the panels. 
THERE IS NO LEAKS ON THIS TUG PERIOD. The total time on this tug is 
5675 hrs.

Claude




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:31:50 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: VIN 717

I would like to see a better shot of the weird controls on the steering 
column, they all look stock in the pictures i see.

Mark V



On Sunday, March 14, 2004, at 02:43 AM, ferdaniraphael wrote:

> Just added pics of engine and interior. Interior is just dusty...
> Engine is stock except the fuel distributor and lines from an Alpine
> or other Renault. No idea of the mileage, but the undercariage is
> clean , frame like new ! Stainless is clean too.
> That car sold for $9500. The original blue fan fail relay is still
> in place and in good shape !!
> The rims are Gotti wheels, and the new owner already plans to return
> to stock of course.
>  Regards
> Raphael



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:36:35 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Houston Experience

Yeah it was a matter of the fuel lines, and there was a sensor up front,
or something, that was wrong.

Alex Wolf
4608
-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Houston Experience

Most of us on the list also believe DMCH is a great group of people. 
I am delighted but not surprised you had a good experience. I am 
curious about how they knew right away that the engine replacement 
was the wrong one. Did they explain?

Harold McElraft - 3354

[very long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:42:04 -0800
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)

That sombody in Ohio was the same Consolidated International who liqudated
DMC. At the time the Renualt R30 2.7 engines were sold for $1295. They also
had Renault automatic trans axles for $495. I still have the flyer from the
early '80's.

Bruce Benson


>. Somebody in Ohio
> was marketing these imports in the 1980's to DeLo >owners with melted
> factory blocks. It's a fine engine used throughout >Europe no problem.
> I'm running it with great success.
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:39:58 -0500
From: "Florian Uhlemann" <F.Uhlemann_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Question

Hey Bob,

take it easy, man! We're not gonna shoot anybody :D haha

well, i know that people are interested in the car.. The car cover might be
a great idea.. but its a pain in the ass to get it off the car every morning
or so and then put it back in at night...

but ringing the door bell at 11pm is really weird :-D

as i said.. the best solution would be to connect the alarm with the door
locks, but if the other guy didnt want to do it, thats fine too, but it
might be a little more complicated to achieve the same result..

there are a few real good alarms out there tho..

whats about PJ Greddy's auto door opener? get that and the alarm and wire it
all up so the alarm, locks and door opener work with remote and stuff ;)

Florian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:55 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Car Alarm Question


> One of the best things to add is a car cover.
> Wal-Mart has a good one that is water proof for about $50 or so.
> I use it.
> If people don't see it they will usually leave it alone.
>
> If you do get an alarm, get the good one that has an interactive remote.
>
> It is unlikely that someone will break into and actually get in because of
> the
> complicated door mechanism, but you may get vandalized.
> That is the biggest problem.
> Since a perp can't just key it, they will try to break off a mirror, a
light
> or flat the tire.
> I once heard of someone running over the top of the car smashing the
> louvers.
>
> I recommend the car cover because, I park my car outside and all the time
> there is
> some wanker coming into my yard and taking pictures of it.
> The other night at 11PM some a-hole was ringing the doorbell while my wife
> was
> here alone, she didn't answer the door.
> I have a security camera on the car at all times and she watched this
dumb-f
> stand around
> and take video of the car for about 10 minutes.
> If I had been here I would have flipped.
> I told her next time to let "Mojo" (our 125 Rotti) out on the front lawn
and
> fires off a couple
> of rounds from my Desert Eagle.
> If he wants to see a DeLorean he can go rent BTTF.
> These idiots have ZERO respect for us and our cars, they touch them and
get
> their
> greasy finger prints all over them, and I can promise if they think no one
> is watching they
> will try to take a souvenir with them.
>
> Get a car cover!
>
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:42:01 -0600
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)

> That's EXACTLY where the PO got it, from a place in Ohio!!!! 

Alex Wolf

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)

> Wonder how many other DeLo owners are running the same engine?
> 
> Your engine, if indeed Renault, is actually a "Z7V" -- comparable to a
> Volvo B27E. Displacement is indeed .2 liters smaller than stock DeLo,
> but compression is 9.5:1, giving you 145 rated HP. Somebody in Ohio
> was marketing these imports in the 1980's to DeLo owners with melted
> factory blocks. It's a fine engine used throughout Europe no problem.
> I'm running it with great success.
> 
> If you are Z7V, be aware there are significant differences from stock
> DeLo as far as tuning is concerned. eMail me direct at
> brobertson(at)carolina.net and I'll walk you through them.
> 
> Please note: your engine isn't "wrong", just different. Both it and
> stock DeLo were manufactured in the same factory in Douvrin France.
> Renault's design philosophy is a little closer to PRV basics, but you
> may discover your new engine is actually more contemporary than the
> one it replaced (build date cast into mine is 1983).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 22:45:51 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New Angle Drive Question

Dear List,
  I recently got a new angle drive (it is one of the newly built ones
from Texas. Anyway when do I lubricate the thing for the first time?
What type of grease should I use? 
    Thanks,
       Kramer
       ~10610




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:54:31 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Car Alarm Question

I have an alarm system with pager installed,
it's very easy on this car compared to newer cars.

The door locks are very simple to attach, I would never want
to use the key anymore. Even remote door openers can be attached
without too much trouble.

The Delorean's electric is very easy to come by, my brothers BMW was a
pain compared to it.

Elvis & 6548


> Now that I've moved, my DeLorean will have to be parked in a parking
> lot thats in town once its back on the road- I feel kind of nervous
> even thinking about it knowing the kind people in this world-so I'm
> planning on installing a car alarm. I'm looking at one thats a LCD
> pager alarm-its pretty interesting, although any alarm I get I don't
> plan on hooking anything to the door locks-I only want my key to
> control the lock-not a button. I know that even a car alarm can't keep
> a good car theif out but-somethings better then nothing. Anyway, I'm
> sure that there are others who've installed alarms in their DeLorean
> so, what do you guys suggest? how difficult is it to install the alarm
> knowing the reputation of DeLorean electrics? Please let me know any
> suggestions at all. Thanks again guys for your past and future
> responses. Dan Benedek #05003



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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:14:37 -0600
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: VIN 717

Raphael,

Could you also get a shot of both VIN tags?  I'm not doubting your ability
to see, but everything about that car indicates to me that it is a later 81
than VIN 717.  For example:

- Hood not correct
- Ashtray is the later style
- Airbox sticker is the larger one
- (Hard to tell but,) doesn't appear to have the textured pontoon by the
engine compartment
- (Again stretching, but) pull strap is not on the passenger door handle.

Either way it's an interesting car.  If it has been sitting since 93, I'd
say it had some work done to it long before that.   The steering column
controls are definitely not factory.

Jake Kamphoefner
-For me and 001063

----- Original Message -----
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:43 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: VIN 717


> Just added pics of engine and interior. Interior is just dusty...
> Engine is stock except the fuel distributor and lines from an Alpine
> or other Renault. No idea of the mileage, but the undercariage is
> clean , frame like new ! Stainless is clean too.
> That car sold for $9500. The original blue fan fail relay is still
> in place and in good shape !!
> The rims are Gotti wheels, and the new owner already plans to return
> to stock of course.
>  Regards
> Raphael



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:55:59 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: question about battery life

I have a DieHard gold in my 98 Malibu, and I've drained that thing
probably 5 times completely flat and it's still working wonderfully. 
I remember reading a car-battery comparison awhile back and it said
that DieHard (out of all of the ones they tested) were able to endure
the largest number of deep cycles before being destroyed.  I think the
number was around 12 cycles?  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Henry" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> This summer, I had my battery replaced with a DieHard (no comments,
please).
> 
> This winter, my car sat for several weeks at a time, through some
below zero temps. At the time, I didn't know it, but the rear parcel
shelf light was stuck on, so the battery was entirely drained.  It
took about 30 minutes of a jump to get the car started and the battery
re-charged.  Since I didn't find the light on the first time, it went
through this cycle twice... basically like this::
Summer:NEW--->Winter:drained-->freeze-->charge-->drain-->freeze-->charge.
 I had the car out yesterday for a couple of hours, and it was running
very well, and the battery seems to be holding the charge.  
> 
>     Should I be concerned that the battery has been damaged?  Is
there any way to tell?  Or should  just take it back to Sears to test
and replace if there is a problem? 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> -Hank




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:11:24 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 or powder coating?

If you sandblast it to bare (shiny) metal POR (Paint Over Rust) will not adhere without their primer. Powder coating requires bare metal.

Powder coating is the way to go if you can get to good metal on a part and the part can be cured at 450 degrees in an oven or by a IR heater.
POR is a viable alternative if the part can't be removed from a car and is rusty. I have used POR on floorpans and it works great. One caution, when they tell you to use rubber gloves they mean it as it will not come off your hands (voice of experience).

I also powder coat and it is amazing the professional results you can get and how tough it is. Limitation again are the temperature and the size of oven you have available if you are doing it yourself. Eastwood automotive has a good selection of powder coating  equipment and materials.


Cecil Longwisch
#10663

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jmlaux83<mailto:jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 12:03 AM
  Subject: [DML] POR-15 or powder coating?


  The Gas tank cover on my Delorean has some rust on it and I'm sure 
  more under the old epoxy. I am going to bring it in soon to get it 
  sandblasted and I was thinking; what would be better painting it with 
  POR-15 or bringing it in and having it powder coated? I'm pretty sure 
  that both will give adequete protection but I am not that familiar 
  with powder coating.



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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 22:05:38 -0500
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Emblem removal THANK YOU!

Just a quick thanks to the many responses I got on list and off about
how to remove the emblem.  In retrospect, it was not a very technical
procedure compared to some, but I wanted to do it right.  (Some tricks
seem easy only AFTER you know how they're done.)
This is a GREAT community!  I hope I get to see a bunch of you in Pigeon Forge!
Sincerely,
Oliver Holler
#10694 (now with a fresh, sparkling hood emblem!)



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 22:37:03 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: POR-15 or powder coating?

I used the por-15 process and then painted it with krylon smoke grey....it 
looked perfect when I put it back on. SInce you can't really see the gas plate 
it should not really matter cosmetically if its not the exact shade of grey as 
the frame. You are right, most have a lot of the epoxy flaking from leaking 
brake fluid and no drain holes...

Mike C
2109 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 22:39:56 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: volt meter ground???

Just wanted to ask where (or how) the ground is for the volt meter. Mine 
seems to be overly sensitive sometimes to slight hicuups in my idle and just 
wanted to make sure it's not a ground issue. The fuse for the volt meter was 
replaced and is in nice and snug so that should be fine.

Mike C
2109 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 05:21:58 -0000
From: "dmc12jp" <hidesuke_at_dml_anet.ne.jp>
Subject: Re: LED lights

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
wrote:
> I have been looking for a good example of LED lights to use in the
> dash, the console and etc... aGOOGLE search resulted these:
> 
> http://www.lunaraccents.com/wired%20leds.htm

Hello Robert,

They seems to be very convenient products. You can not only specify
the operating voltage but also choose the viewing angle. There is even
LEDs that changes color. If you convert your A/C panel using these
LEDs, please let us know how it went!

As a person who did custom LED conversion of the A/C panel, I would
like to put my 2 cents worth. Firstly, I would choose the widest
possible viewing angle (120 degrees). When I made this myself. I cut 
off the top of LEDs to spread the light as much as possible. With a 
directed light only a small part of the panel is illuminated.

Secondly, I would specify low (4 or 6V) operating voltage and connect
two or three LEDs in series. (for illumination LEDs, not for indicator
LEDs) Driving one LED with a 12V voltage means that 8-10V is 
dissipated at the register. That produces about 120 -200mW of heat. 
Although this is much smaller than the stock bulb, if the resister is 
touching a plastic part it may melt that part. By connecting the LED 
units in series heat production is reduced by far.

When I converted my A/C panel, I series connected three LEDs and put
a current regulative diode (CRD) of 15mA. CRD is a diode which
supplies constant current to an electronic circuit, even when  power
supply voltage fluctuations or load impedance fluctuations occur. 
CRD is used for current stabilization and current limiting. This is
convenient because the voltage in a car can vary and the CRDs
maintain the brightness of LEDs at the same level. I have some
pictures on my website
   http://homepage.mac.com/h.o/
My old website http://homepage.mac.com/hokam/
is not any more. I changed the account name.

Best regards,
Hideki Okamura
Tokyo, Japan




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 05:45:25 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Rust under T Panel

Over the past few months I have been going over my delorean and 
checking everything since it has been sitting since 1997. Today I 
removed my T-panel to find that the weatherprood tape over the wire 
harness has rotted, however the seal was still intact so I figured 
that no moisture got in. I decided to check under the seal anyways 
just in case. When I opened it up the entire lid on the inside had 
rust on it. I reached inside the hole and felt that both the top and 
the bottom had rust on the inside as well. I will eventually have to 
replace this which looks like an involved job. The facility in Texas 
would probably be able to do this, right?


This picture shows the wiring harness. I was in the middle of 
scraping away the residue the old tape had left. To the left is the 
lid covering the hole. I don't think that it is the right lid thats 
probably why water got in there to begin with. And to the right is a 
bit of a Delorean joke ;)
http://members.cox.net/kassbek/Harness%201.jpg


Here you can see a blurry picture of inside the wiring harness hole. 
There is a lot of rust!
http://members.cox.net/kassbek/Harness%20rust.jpg

If I put on the pics wrong sorry, it is the first time putting on 
pics.

Jason
Vin#2256





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 06:04:47 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Odd louver Vents

In my folder #2256 I have a picture of one of the vents on the lower 
louver. When I bought the car I asked the guy about them and he said 
they were original. Out of all the research I have done for this car 
I have never seen anything like that. Has anyone else? The way it is 
riveted on looks original but there have been so many things done to 
my car that are not.


Jason
#2256




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 07:20:11 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: New Angle Drive Question

Have you tried asking the people who sold it to you?

-----Original Message-----
From: Kramer [mailto:jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 4:46 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New Angle Drive Question


Dear List,
  I recently got a new angle drive (it is one of the newly built ones from
Texas. Anyway when do I lubricate the thing for the first time? What type of
grease should I use? 
    Thanks,
       Kramer
       ~10610




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 14:13:27 -0000
From: "Ken Hintz" <kenhintz_at_dml_netzero.com>
Subject: Reduced price on my 1981 DMC-12 VIN#2250

After a lot of response to my recent posting but no reasonable offers
I have reduced my 
price by $2000 to $15,500. If you are looking for a real nice '81
that doesn't require a lot 
of work please look at my description page at 
http://www.antiqueangler.com/delorean
Thanks a lot.
Ken Hintz




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 14:48:32 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG

I knew about the bus and snowcat projects but this is new to me.  
Just when I thought I had read everything about the Delorean Motor 
Company...

Johnny
5518

 
 
So you want to own a VERY different Delorean?
Now is your chance to "Tug your Delorean,with a a De lorean "Tug"!!
 
 
SO,Here is your chance, Bet you never heard of, or saw one of these 
Deloreans  before!!
JZD,was into Building OTHER Motor Vehicles other than our SS car.
There is a 1981 Delorean for sale on Ebay (Item number: 2466515213)
That is NOT stainless Steel,(and very ugly)and has Chrysler power 
from the factory.Here is a chance to own something other than the 
regular issue "Delorean".
Maybe this was his "NEW Generation" Delorean?
 





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 00:51:19 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: John Z. De Lorean's name... - stupid question, but anyways

In a message dated 3/14/2004 4:25:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com writes:


> But JZD wanted it to
> appear more exotic and be able to divert attention away from his lineage
> by taking putting the space in there and having it seem french.
> 

In DMC documents, seems to me it's "DeLorean" with no space if in upper and 
lower case, or "DE LOREAN" if all in caps.
Wayne 11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 09:42:39 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: volt meter ground???

Mike,
The Ground off the battery ground post goes to the frame and then the drive
train.The best ground would be the battery post, but most grounds are
connected to the frame. So to make sure the ground is coming through, I
would go to the frame with your ground to see if there is any problems. If
you wanted to measure the resistance of the ground between the post and the
frame, it should be .1 ohm or less.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 9:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] volt meter ground???


Just wanted to ask where (or how) the ground is for the volt meter. Mine
seems to be overly sensitive sometimes to slight hicuups in my idle and just
wanted to make sure it's not a ground issue. The fuse for the volt meter was
replaced and is in nice and snug so that should be fine.

Mike C
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 16:12:30 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Rust under T Panel

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Over the past few months I have been going over my delorean and 
> checking everything since it has been sitting since 1997. Today I 
> removed my T-panel to find that the weatherprood tape over the wire 
> harness has rotted, however the seal was still intact so I figured 
> that no moisture got in. I decided to check under the seal anyways 
> just in case. When I opened it up the entire lid on the inside had 
> rust on it. I reached inside the hole and felt that both the top 
and 
> the bottom had rust on the inside as well. I will eventually have 
to 
> replace this which looks like an involved job. The facility in 
Texas 
> would probably be able to do this, right?
...
> Jason
> Vin#2256


Hi Jason.

My car had similar rust in the roof support.  I removed it from the 
underbody, had it sandblasted, repainted it, sealed it heavily and 
put it back in.  You are right.  It is a very involved job.  If 
you're mechanically inclined, you could do it yourself.  I'll share 
my experience with you if you do.  If you don't want to do it 
yourself, I would recommend you hire Rob Grady to do it.  No matter 
who you hire, expect to pay a lot.  It's a lot of work, unless your 
doors are already off.  I bet a lot of cars are driving with this 
problem, and predict this will be a bigger problem with lots of 
Deloreans as the fleet ages and the roofs start to buckle.  Perhaps 
you should just ignore it until it causes structural trouble.  I only 
did mine because I had the car completely apart already.

Rick Gendreau 11472




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