From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1919
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 11:20 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Re: question about battery life
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

3. Riv Nut Tool
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Hazard Switch
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

8. Re: question about battery life
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Replacing heat sheild.
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>

10. engine swap with a chevy 283
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: RHD conversion
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>

12. St Pattys Day Picture Request...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

13. Re: Replacing heat sheild.
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Re: volt meter ground???
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

15. RE: Replacing heat sheild.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Hazard Switch
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

17. RE: Re: question about battery life
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Buying a DeLorean
From: Bobby <bmims1_at_dml_ut-texas.com>

19. Re: engine swap with a chevy 283
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

20. Company car ???
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

21. DMC Texas Weatherstriping
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. DCS Pigoen Forge Hotel Room Update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

23. DCS Magazine
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: question about battery life
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: engine swap with a chevy 283
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:58:30 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)

FYI,

If some of the gear head, pack rats out there have car magazines
saved from the mid to late 1980's, check out the parts for sale
ads in the back of the magazines like Car & Driver, Motor Trend,
Autoweek, Car Craft and other similar magazines.

It's cool to see these Volvo B27E engines being advertised in
these mainstream car magazines.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > That's EXACTLY where the PO got it, from a place in Ohio!!!! 
> 
> Alex Wolf
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...] 
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:55 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)
> 
> > Wonder how many other DeLo owners are running the same engine?
> > 
> > Your engine, if indeed Renault, is actually a "Z7V" -- 
comparable to a
> > Volvo B27E. Displacement is indeed .2 liters smaller than stock 
DeLo,
> > but compression is 9.5:1, giving you 145 rated HP. Somebody in 
Ohio
> > was marketing these imports in the 1980's to DeLo owners with 
melted
> > factory blocks. It's a fine engine used throughout Europe no 
problem.
> > I'm running it with great success.
> > 
> > If you are Z7V, be aware there are significant differences from 
stock
> > DeLo as far as tuning is concerned. eMail me direct at
> > brobertson(at)carolina.net and I'll walk you through them.
> > 
> > Please note: your engine isn't "wrong", just different. Both it 
and
> > stock DeLo were manufactured in the same factory in Douvrin 
France.
> > Renault's design philosophy is a little closer to PRV basics, 
but you
> > may discover your new engine is actually more contemporary than 
the
> > one it replaced (build date cast into mine is 1983).
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> 
> [long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 16:57:51 -0500
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Re: question about battery life

The "poor man's" test of battery condition is fairly quick and simple:

1)  Charge the battery
2)  Disconnect the primary coil wire
3)  Hook a voltmeter up across the battery
4)  Crank the car for 10 seconds.

If the battery drops below 10.125 volts, it's usually toast.

-Dave

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:54:16 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Riv Nut Tool

Just wanted to make a very public thank you to John Hervey for his help with 
getting me the Riv nut tool for my car. Prior to having that the Riv nuts 
were a royal pain in the butt. He was extremely efficient in making sure I 
got the part ASAP. So for his proffesionalism and and assistance I wanted to 
thank him publicly, I will definitely be making SpecialTAuto one of my first 
stop for parts.

(No, I'm not getting paid to say this)

Dom

_________________________________________________________________
Fast. Reliable. Get MSN 9 Dial-up - 3 months for the price of 1! 
(Limited-time Offer) http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:58:12 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG



Does anybody know if this "Delorean" is still in production?
And if so,if LOGAN has the rights to the name Delorean Motor Co. name 
or DMCH has a right to the name.

Claude 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I knew about the bus and snowcat projects but this is new to me.  
> Just when I thought I had read everything about the Delorean Motor 
> Company...
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
>  
>  
> So you want to own a VERY different Delorean?
> Now is your chance to "Tug your Delorean,with a a De lorean "Tug"!!
>  
>  
> SO,Here is your chance, Bet you never heard of, or saw one of these 
> Deloreans  before!!
> JZD,was into Building OTHER Motor Vehicles other than our SS car.
> There is a 1981 Delorean for sale on Ebay (Item number: 2466515213)
> That is NOT stainless Steel,(and very ugly)and has Chrysler power 
> from the factory.Here is a chance to own something other than the 
> regular issue "Delorean".
> Maybe this was his "NEW Generation" Delorean?




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:21:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)

Don't know about the block itself, but everything north of Alex's
heads is definitely not E series. Has the usual ECU driven do-dads,
two piece upper air assembly (probably with deceleration valves), 066
series CPR, cast iron fuel distributor, etc. His injector lines are
indeed steel (a'la Renault) but lines to cold start valve, CPR, and
frequency valve are flouroelastometric.

Told him to do a compression test. If it doesn't come back 160-170 PSI
per cylinder, lower half of engine is North American too.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> FYI,
> 
> If some of the gear head, pack rats out there have car magazines
> saved from the mid to late 1980's, check out the parts for sale
> ads in the back of the magazines like Car & Driver, Motor Trend,
> Autoweek, Car Craft and other similar magazines.
> 
> It's cool to see these Volvo B27E engines being advertised in
> these mainstream car magazines.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > > That's EXACTLY where the PO got it, from a place in Ohio!!!! 
> > 
> > Alex Wolf
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...] 
> > Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:55 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] Re: Houston Experience (Alex Wolf)
> > 
> > > Wonder how many other DeLo owners are running the same engine?
> > > 
> > > Your engine, if indeed Renault, is actually a "Z7V" -- 
> comparable to a
> > > Volvo B27E. Displacement is indeed .2 liters smaller than stock 
> DeLo,
> > > but compression is 9.5:1, giving you 145 rated HP. Somebody in 
> Ohio
> > > was marketing these imports in the 1980's to DeLo owners with 
> melted
> > > factory blocks. It's a fine engine used throughout Europe no 
> problem.
> > > I'm running it with great success.
> > > 
> > > If you are Z7V, be aware there are significant differences from 
> stock
> > > DeLo as far as tuning is concerned. eMail me direct at
> > > brobertson(at)carolina.net and I'll walk you through them.
> > > 
> > > Please note: your engine isn't "wrong", just different. Both it 
> and
> > > stock DeLo were manufactured in the same factory in Douvrin 
> France.
> > > Renault's design philosophy is a little closer to PRV basics, 
> but you
> > > may discover your new engine is actually more contemporary than 
> the
> > > one it replaced (build date cast into mine is 1983).
> > > 
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939
> > 
> > [long quote trimmed by moderator]




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:16:26 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Hazard Switch

I am about ready to take my DeLorean and attempt to get in inspected.
A minor issue that I am running into is my hazard light. When I press
it in, only the passenger side lights blink. I can press my turning
switch to turn the driver side lights on.

After looking at the wiring diagram and the technical manual, I
believe the problem lies within the hazard switch (or so I hope) and
the contacts for the driver side of the Delorean are dirty. If this is
not the case, the I am guessing the problem lies where the wiring line
from hazard switch splices into the wiring going to the driver side
turn lights.

Does this assessment sound correct to everyone or anyone? Has anyone
had the same or similar problems as I have described? If so, what was
the issue and/or fix? I would love to get some direction before just
taking a stab at the solution.

Thanks,
Ej
Vin 4475




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:19:06 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DE LOREAN T-40 AIRCRAFT TUG

Marvin Katz (owner of KAPAC) was at the DMCH open house last year
and displayed detailed drawings of the DMC / Logan multi-purpose
airport vehicle which was in several different forms, including 
and aircraft tug, a luggage transporter and a general maintenance
vehicle.  The drawing(s) showed the basic chassis with multiple
overlays, depicting each of the vehicle variations.

I took several photos of the drawings.  If there is interest, I
can post them to a folder in the DML photo vault.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> 
> So you want to own a VERY different Delorean?
> Now is your chance to "Tug your Delorean,with a a De lorean "Tug"!!
> 
> 
> SO,Here is your chance, Bet you never heard of, or saw one of 
these 
> Deloreans  before!!
>
> snip <




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 16:57:30 -0800 (PST)
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: question about battery life

Drain completely take back to Sears!
It's free., PRO-RATED ===NEW BATTERY?

Henry <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com> wrote:

This summer, I had my battery replaced with a DieHard (no comments, please).

This winter, my car sat for several weeks at a time, through some below zero temps. At the time, I didn't know it, but the rear parcel shelf light was stuck on, so the battery was entirely drained. It took about 30 minutes of a jump to get the car started and the battery re-charged. Since I didn't find the light on the first time, it went through this cycle twice... basically like this:: Summer:NEW--->Winter:drained-->freeze-->charge-->drain-->freeze-->charge. I had the car out yesterday for a couple of hours, and it was running very well, and the battery seems to be holding the charge. 

Should I be concerned that the battery has been damaged? Is there any way to tell? Or should just take it back to Sears to test and replace if there is a problem? 

thanks,

-Hank



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:31:17 -0700
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Replacing heat sheild.

I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic converter. I need a little room between 
the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save me some time by confirming 
that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the engine mounting bolts only and not having 
to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the engine under the oil pan.

Thanks
Steve


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 01:38:06 -0000
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: engine swap with a chevy 283

i think i'm planning to do an engine swap with a chevy 283 that a co 
worker (machanic) is going to do for me. he has done engine swaps in 
deloreans before. he is boring and stroking it, and is putting a 350 
crank in it. he says it will put out between 300 and 350 hp. what do 
you guys think? i'm just tired of chancing problems with this engine. 
i have it burning very lean but it is idealing at 3000 rpms!! 
aaaaaaaghhhh




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:33:57 +1100 (EST)
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: RHD conversion


To Nick, congrats on your purchase of a DeLorean.

In answering of your question, if you are an experience nechanic you should be able to convert it to RHD yourself. However, after if you stuff up even the slightest bit, it could end up costing you thousands of dollars. I strongly recommend that you take it to a professional Auto engineer. They would prob charge a max of 'bout $6000. You wouldn't be able to tell that it was once LHD.

DMC - Live The Dream

K'man, Penrith (Sydney Aus)




---------------------------------
Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:41:23 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: St Pattys Day Picture Request...

Hey Gang,

Just putting together the upcoming issue of DeLorean Car Show Magazine, 
(www.deloreancarshow.com) and I wanted to be sure and include anyone who 
wants to send in pics of their cars, or cars they saw in their local St. 
Patrick's Day parades. (or will see..if it's still coming up!)  If you 
have some good high resolution shots, you can send them to me at my 
e-mail address, (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) and I will include as many as I 
can.  High resolution means 300 dpi or better.

Hope everyone has a happy St. Patrick's Day!

All my best,
Josh
VIN 5102 (finally back on the road thanks to gigantic help from: SHANNON 
YOCOM, JOE O'BRIEN, KEN KONCELIK, AND PATRICK & TERRY CONLON this past 
weekend)
VIN 15964
and the rest...







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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 04:50:05 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Replacing heat sheild.

Steve - It's okay to jack up the engine after unbolting the motor 
mounts, without disconnecting anything else ... if you just raise 
the engine up the minimum amount to get the heat shield replaced.  
You will put stresses on several different tubes and pipes, but they 
should be okay with it.  The oil pan is fairly sturdy, but I would 
personally use the flange where the pan bolts up the the block just 
under the crank shaft pulley.  If you do use the pan itself, spread 
the load out with a 2 X 4 across its width.  It is a cast aluminum 
piece, so its rather brittle.  Watch out that you don't bind the 
exhaust tips on the rear fascia.  You only have an inch or so of 
clearance there.  You may have to loosen the muffler clamps and 
other attachments to let the muffler rotate down a bit.  Have fun!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC  
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic 
converter. I need a little room between 
> the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save 
me some time by confirming 
> that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the 
engine mounting bolts only and not having 
> to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the 
engine under the oil pan.
> 
> Thanks
> Steve





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 05:02:46 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: volt meter ground???

Mike - I know that several people have weighed in on this question, 
but in reviewing their answers, it occurred to me that they hadn't 
actually answered your question.  You are asking about the ground 
for the voltage gauge in the dash, are you not?  If that is the 
case, it sounds like you have a twitchy or erratic gauge, and are 
wondering if a bad ground might be the cause.  I may be wrong, but I 
think that the ground point for the dash instruments is to a metal 
part of the dash structure just behind the radio.  Also, there was a 
great article in Gullwing Magazine about this very subject - the 
twitchy volt gauge - in the Winter 2003 issue.  Bob Zilla wrote a 
good piece about locating and cleaning a rather fragile connection 
at the back of the instrument cluster.  Bob suggested in this 
article that a dirty connection here would result in the symptoms 
you describe.  You should check it out.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248  "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Just wanted to ask where (or how) the ground is for the volt 
meter. Mine 
> seems to be overly sensitive sometimes to slight hicuups in my 
idle and just 
> wanted to make sure it's not a ground issue. The fuse for the volt 
meter was 
> replaced and is in nice and snug so that should be fine.
> 
> Mike C
> 2109 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:02:46 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Replacing heat sheild.

Steve, Be careful, You may rupture or break the motor mounts.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Jaeger [mailto:sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 7:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Replacing heat sheild.


I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic converter.
I need a little room between
the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save me some
time by confirming
that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the engine mounting
bolts only and not having
to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the engine under
the oil pan.

Thanks
Steve


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:36:22 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Hazard Switch

A quick look over the diagram and I'm likely to guess the switch, or a 
wire to it.

A simple test is to unplug the switch, push it in so it is active, and 
see if you get a continuity. If it wasnt for being so late, I'd pull my 
switch out (my dash is all apart) and tell you which pins should make a 
contact.

If it is indeed the switch (cant get any connection to the pin for the 
driver side of the lights) on the switch itself, then it probably just 
needs a cleaning. It doesnt take much to take the switch apart either 
(be gentle, dont abuse it). Simple design inside, if you take the 
lightbulb piece out, put it back in straight (i put mine in with a 
slight turn so it didnt line up properly, took awhile to unclip it to 
get it out to fix).

Samuel

EJ Chambers wrote:

>I am about ready to take my DeLorean and attempt to get in inspected.
>A minor issue that I am running into is my hazard light. When I press
>it in, only the passenger side lights blink. I can press my turning
>switch to turn the driver side lights on.
>
>After looking at the wiring diagram and the technical manual, I
>believe the problem lies within the hazard switch (or so I hope) and
>the contacts for the driver side of the Delorean are dirty. If this is
>not the case, the I am guessing the problem lies where the wiring line
>from hazard switch splices into the wiring going to the driver side
>turn lights.
>
>Does this assessment sound correct to everyone or anyone? Has anyone
>had the same or similar problems as I have described? If so, what was
>the issue and/or fix? I would love to get some direction before just
>taking a stab at the solution.
>
>Thanks,
>Ej
>Vin 4475
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>  
>




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:25:59 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: question about battery life

Dave, Using the starter as a load is smart way of checking the battery. Here
is some additional information from a local GM expert that writes the books
on battery and charging systems and teaches around the country.
I took his 1/2 day course and it was wonderful.

The ( OCV ) Test. ( Open Circuit voltage). Evaluates the battery State of
charge.
#1.Charge the battery over night.
#2.Next morning, with battery hooked up just put a DMM across the battery
terminals and
   get a voltage check.
#3.If it's above 12.66 volts, then turn on the lights for about a minuet to
bleed off surface voltage and read again. Here is what the battery condition
is by doing this test.

12.66=100% State of charge
12.58=90%
12.51=80%
12.45=70%
12.35=60%
12.28=50%
12.20=40%
12.12=30%

If your battery isn't holding a 12.66 or a little higher voltage, then it's
on it way out. That doesn't mean it's going out tomorrow but it's going
down. This is also what causes an alternator to go out. It's trying to
charge the battery that can't be charged, so it working all the time to do
so. Overheats and burns up the regulator.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

http://www.veejer.com/







-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Stragand [mailto:dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net]
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 3:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: question about battery life


The "poor man's" test of battery condition is fairly quick and simple:

1)  Charge the battery
2)  Disconnect the primary coil wire
3)  Hook a voltmeter up across the battery
4)  Crank the car for 10 seconds.

If the battery drops below 10.125 volts, it's usually toast.

-Dave

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:14:37 -0600
From: Bobby <bmims1_at_dml_ut-texas.com>
Subject: Buying a DeLorean

I have owned my DeLorean since 1985.  Steve Wynn and DMC Houston have 
serviced it since 1988.  My "D" is now 23 years old and runs perfectly!  
Steve and the DeLorean Motor Company of Houston are simply the best!

My car was originally serviced by a guy in Dallas named "Pat W....ly" 
who basically used my enthusiasm for the DeLorean for a license to "rip 
me off!"  I have never forgotten him telling me I needed a new tranny 
(auto) and selling me one for $4000 and then taking nearly a year to put 
in in.  When I picked it my car up I drove it out of the service bay and 
to my surprise all of the old transmission was still in the car.  I 
immediatley returned to the service bay and confronted him and he told 
me that all they had to do was rebuild by tranny.  I demanded my parts 
back and "guess what?"  He gave me the same brand new transmission on a 
block that I had purchased and had shipped to him a year earlier!  The 
same one that I had paid him $4000 to order.  The SOB just had my old 
one rebuilt and I guess he intended to sell the new one.  It helps to be 
a lawyer sometimes and to be your own client!  The SOB thought I was 
stupid because I trusted him!  Bad mistake when dealing with "Southern 
White Boys with an education!"  We get very belligerant and know how to 
.. (explitive deleted).. you legally!  Really a bad combination!  Guy 
still regrets knowin' me!

I have since used DeLorean Motor Compamny in Houston and Steve Wynn and 
they are great and true professionals.  If you want a DeLorean then you 
should call Steve and they will find you one.  My suggestion is to pay a 
little more and get the best available.  These are great cars but they 
must have the upgrades and the proper service.  My best advice is to 
call DeLorean in Houston and let them guide you.  They are professionals 
and honest. 

Bobby Mims
Tyler, Texas



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:28:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap with a chevy 283


Personally I think it is a bad idea to replace an
engine just because you can't get your stock motor to
run right.If you want more power than go for it,but if
its because your PRV is giving you problems you're
much better of fixing it first and then deciding if
you want to swap it out.Any time you deviate from the
stock system you're in uncharted waters.At least with
the PRV everyone on the list can help you.And who's to
say you wont have just as many problems with the Chevy
engine? Just something to consider.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney
 what do 
> you guys think? i'm just tired of chancing problems
> with this engine. 
> i have it burning very lean but it is idealing at
> 3000 rpms!! 
> aaaaaaaghhhh
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.com



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 13:00:42 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Company car ???

Hi.
I'm doing some research about VIN 717. Since it has no fabrication 
date stamped on the VIN tag, could it be a Company car that was not 
intended to be sold ??
I read some of you talking about these early cars that served as 
test cars for DMC so I was wondering...
Thanks for your help
Raphael




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:02:58 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC Texas Weatherstriping

Is the weatherstripping that the distributor in Texas is offering new 
stock or old stock?




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:32:05 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS Pigoen Forge Hotel Room Update

Well you guys(and girls) always seem to amaze me.

The Hotel that I had 220 rooms reserved sold out of the economy rooms.  There 
has been a HUGE RUSH as they say on these rooms in the past week.

Don't panic we have more.

We actually sold out the two small towers with the low cost rooms.

There are 60 tower rooms left and I have them all.

I also set aside another 20 rooms at the Grand Hotel.  The Grand is where the 
Friday and Saturday  events will be and its only .8 miles down the road.  
This was the backup plan if we sold out anyway.  The Grand is at traffic light 8.

When you call in for reservations and want the economy rooms ask for the 
Grand.  I think they are $66 per night with my discount.

This is going to be a huge event.  The rooms are filling at a much faster 
rate than Memphis.

Registrations have been steady but based on the rooms there is going to be a 
rush in a few weeks and we are going to be busy.

I'll update the raffle car shortly its been doing real well.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:33:32 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS Magazine

WE are going to print next week so if you have any last minute articles you 
want in this issue please send them in by e-mail by Friday.  That is the drop 
dead date.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:34:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: question about battery life

Doing a cranking test (using the starter as a load test) is a quick
and "dirty" test. It is dependant on too many variables though like a
bad starter, dirty or loose connections, low compression, to name a
few. The light test is a little better but can be meaningless if you
take the results from another kind of car and compare them to the
Delorean. It is not difficult to have a battery load tested. First
charge it up slowly ( 2-5 amps for 2 days). Next take it to Sears or
any large chain and they will test it on a load tester for free. They
do this to try to sell you a new battery. In most cases if you bring
an old battery in and suspect it to be bad it probably is. Don't waste
testing anything over 5 years old. The "dirty little secret" in
batteries is that although you can still use a battery after it is 5
years old it generally has less than 50% of it's life left. This means
there is no reserve and should be replaced. A battery cannot be
properly load tested if it is less than 1/2 charged or has less than
50% capacity. Batteries in cars that are not used regularly age even
faster because of the deeper discharge cycles they see by usually
being allowed to go dead over the winter for extended periods of time.
I keep batteries on my cars healthy by removing them from the cars,
placing on a wooden surface, and charging them with a trickle (float)
charger 1 day every month when the car is not in use. Even with that
care 5-6 years is pushing it. An alternator that either doesn't keep a
battery fully charged or one that overcharges a battery will kill the
battery faster. A little known fact is that you can have an alternator
with a blown diode or 2 that still charges the battery. This is very
bad though because not only is the alternator not able to fully charge
the battery but it is now impressing an A/C voltage on the battery and
that will kill the battery quicker than sh-t. It is just good practice
to check the ENTIRE charging system when you change a battery so you
know the new battery will get to live a long time. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dave, Using the starter as a load is smart way of checking the
battery. Here
> is some additional information from a local GM expert that writes
the books
> on battery and charging systems and teaches around the country.
> I took his 1/2 day course and it was wonderful.
> 





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:59:42 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: engine swap with a chevy 283

Choice of engine for your swap aside (I'm not a Chevy guy), I 
honestly think that your swap is a bad idea, because you're doing it 
for the wrong reasons. To put it bluntly, your motor isn't running 
right because of something YOU are doing. Idle speed is set 
automaticly on the DeLorean electronicly. So your leaning out of the 
fuel mixture isn't going to have any effect. Save for damaging your 
engine, by running too hot of a combustion in the chambers. Even if 
the Idle Speed Circuit was disabled/malfunctioning, you could still 
set the idle manually using alternative means. NONE of which involve 
tampering with the air/fuel mixture.

You've got a motor which seriously needs an adjustment (and probably 
a new set of sparkplugs at this point too), so my best advice would 
be to knuckle down, RTFM, and get the motor running properly, the 
CORRECT way. Setting an idle & A/F is much simpler, and cheaper than 
a motor swap.

And while I'm not going to bad mouth your mechnaic, I've no doubt 
that he's fully in favor of this engine swap. After all, whom are you 
going to be paying out a serious amount of cash to, in order to 
perform this swap? If he has also performed these types of engine 
swaps on other DeLoreans in the past, ask him for references from 
those other owners first. Talk to those other owners, and ask then 
what they thought of the end results, and why they did it?

You've got a challenge lying in front of you. Accept it, and conquer 
it. If it's something that you can't, then there isn't anything wrong 
with going to a mechanic to have it done for you. I'm just curious as 
to why this mechanic can't set the idle & fuel mixture for you, with 
his amount of previous "experience" with DeLoreans...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> i think i'm planning to do an engine swap with a chevy 283 that a 
co 
> worker (machanic) is going to do for me. he has done engine swaps 
in 
> deloreans before. he is boring and stroking it, and is putting a 
350 
> crank in it. he says it will put out between 300 and 350 hp. what 
do 
> you guys think? i'm just tired of chancing problems with this 
engine. 
> i have it burning very lean but it is idealing at 3000 rpms!! 
> aaaaaaaghhhh




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