From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1920
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 2:56 PM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Re: question about battery life
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: DCS Magazine
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: Replacing heat sheild.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: engine swap with a chevy 283
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. DCS Pigen forge hotel rooms updated update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:20:58 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo B27E engine ads (wasHouston/Wolf)

I was reading your post to the DML, and something that you wrote 
peaked my curiousity. Specificly about the PSI readings. Last year I 
took my motor in for tuning (after it wouldn't pass smog), and had a 
pressure test run on the car. The results were positive, but all came 
back between 162 & 167 PSI across all cylinders. Is this a sign that 
this may be one of those aftermarket, higher-compression PRV motors 
that KAPAC was selling? And if so, are there any casting #'s on the 
side that I can check to verify?

Thanks in advance!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Don't know about the block itself, but everything north of Alex's
> heads is definitely not E series. Has the usual ECU driven do-dads,
> two piece upper air assembly (probably with deceleration valves), 
066
> series CPR, cast iron fuel distributor, etc. His injector lines are
> indeed steel (a'la Renault) but lines to cold start valve, CPR, and
> frequency valve are flouroelastometric.
> 
> Told him to do a compression test. If it doesn't come back 160-170 
PSI
> per cylinder, lower half of engine is North American too.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:31:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: question about battery life

David,  Is there any downside (to the car) in removing the battery from the DMC and storing the battery as you suggest during the winter months?

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
Doing a cranking test (using the starter as a load test) is a quick
and "dirty" test. It is dependant on too many variables though like a
bad starter, dirty or loose connections, low compression, to name a
few. The light test is a little better but can be meaningless if you
take the results from another kind of car and compare them to the
Delorean. It is not difficult to have a battery load tested. First
charge it up slowly ( 2-5 amps for 2 days). Next take it to Sears or
any large chain and they will test it on a load tester for free. They
do this to try to sell you a new battery. In most cases if you bring
an old battery in and suspect it to be bad it probably is. Don't waste
testing anything over 5 years old. The "dirty little secret" in
batteries is that although you can still use a battery after it is 5
years old it generally has less than 50% of it's life left. This means
there is no reserve and should be replaced. A battery cannot be
properly load tested if it is less than 1/2 charged or has less than
50% capacity. Batteries in cars that are not used regularly age even
faster because of the deeper discharge cycles they see by usually
being allowed to go dead over the winter for extended periods of time.
I keep batteries on my cars healthy by removing them from the cars,
placing on a wooden surface, and charging them with a trickle (float)
charger 1 day every month when the car is not in use. Even with that
care 5-6 years is pushing it. An alternator that either doesn't keep a
battery fully charged or one that overcharges a battery will kill the
battery faster. A little known fact is that you can have an alternator
with a blown diode or 2 that still charges the battery. This is very
bad though because not only is the alternator not able to fully charge
the battery but it is now impressing an A/C voltage on the battery and
that will kill the battery quicker than sh-t. It is just good practice
to check the ENTIRE charging system when you change a battery so you
know the new battery will get to live a long time. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" wrote:
> Dave, Using the starter as a load is smart way of checking the
battery. Here
> is some additional information from a local GM expert that writes
the books
> on battery and charging systems and teaches around the country.
> I took his 1/2 day course and it was wonderful.
> 





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:37:52 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DCS Magazine

I'll call Josh tonight.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DCS Magazine


WE are going to print next week so if you have any last minute articles you
want in this issue please send them in by e-mail by Friday.  That is the
drop
dead date.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:47:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing heat sheild.

Wouldn't it be far easier to simply drop the converter? When I gutted
mine it came right out (muffler is stainless, so the two are not
rusted together). Guillotine clamp probably won't survive, but that's
a simple $2 part at any parts house. Reach the converter-Y pipe studs
from the front side of the driver engine cradle.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Steve - It's okay to jack up the engine after unbolting the motor 
> mounts, without disconnecting anything else ... if you just raise 
> the engine up the minimum amount to get the heat shield replaced.  
> You will put stresses on several different tubes and pipes, but they 
> should be okay with it.  The oil pan is fairly sturdy, but I would 
> personally use the flange where the pan bolts up the the block just 
> under the crank shaft pulley.  If you do use the pan itself, spread 
> the load out with a 2 X 4 across its width.  It is a cast aluminum 
> piece, so its rather brittle.  Watch out that you don't bind the 
> exhaust tips on the rear fascia.  You only have an inch or so of 
> clearance there.  You may have to loosen the muffler clamps and 
> other attachments to let the muffler rotate down a bit.  Have fun!
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC  
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic 
> converter. I need a little room between 
> > the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save 
> me some time by confirming 
> > that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the 
> engine mounting bolts only and not having 
> > to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the 
> engine under the oil pan.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Steve




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:36:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap with a chevy 283

Keep it closer to 300HP, or you will be replacing lots
of other parts too..

Let us know how this project turns out!  Will it be
ready for pigeon forge?


--- delorean3469 <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> i think i'm planning to do an engine swap with a
> chevy 283 that a co 
> worker (machanic) is going to do for me. he has done
> engine swaps in 
> deloreans before. he is boring and stroking it, and
> is putting a 350 
> crank in it. he says it will put out between 300 and
> 350 hp. what do 
> you guys think? 

<SNIP>


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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 12:37:03 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS Pigen forge hotel rooms updated update

Well I got a quick flurry of e-mails and a little shuffling by a few pople 
that would rather be at the Grand so we have a limited number of the $59 rooms 
at Smokey Shadows now (I think 5).

The only rooms that we are running low on are non smoking tower rooms.  At 
this time I have 17 of those left.

But 

There are plenty of rooms available as we have a total of 60 Tower suites at 
Smokey shadows, 5 economy rooms and 20 economy rooms at the Grand and if we 
need more we can have more at the Grand.

The Grand and Smokey Shadows are owned by KMS Resorts so they are the same 
properties. They also own the Family Inn across from the Grand.

Thanks for your support.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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