From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1924
Date: Friday, March 19, 2004 1:23 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Looking for ex-Delorean employees
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

2. RE: Cleaning Stainless
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

3. Re: LED Lights Update
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Raffle car update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: Brass Manifold Screws
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Air Bleed Screw
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Raffle car update
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Cleaning Stainless
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

9. Re: Re: Raffle car update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. a couple newbie questions
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. LED Lights
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>

12. Re: vin #717
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

13. RE: Air Bleed Screw
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

14. RE: LED Lights
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Brass Manifold Screws vs Centralized Idle
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Air Bleed Screw
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. photos wanted.
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

18. RE: LED lights
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>

19. Re: photos wanted.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Sealing the Fuel Pump Ring
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

21. Re: Air Bleed Screw
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. RE: photos wanted.
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

23. Re: Cleaning Stainless
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Re: Raffle car update
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

25. Re: thickness of stainless steel skin
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 18:48:50 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Looking for ex-Delorean employees

So, what is your name?

-----Original Message-----
From: Jelly Belly [mailto:oneyogi2000_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 6:32 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Looking for ex-Delorean employees


I used to work at Delorean motor co qac center in Santa Ana, 
California 82-83 and I was wondering if anybody out there worked 
there when I did. Joe Black nicknamed me Flash when I was doing 
final QAC before we loaded them on the trucks. I also worked 
interior doors so if any one has any questions about how they work 
send me a note




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 20:24:30 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Cleaning Stainless

Nothing works better than a good power wash.  I had a car that sat in a
field for over 10 years without being cleaned.  It had so much filth
that you could write your name on it with your finger and it would be
there for years.

I took a power washer to it and it looked like new.  Then I tried it on
my good car and it made it look 10 times better.

Followed it up with Stainless Steel Magic and they both looked like new.

Jack.

-----Original Message-----
From: KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 4:08 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Cleaning Stainless

I'll stick to my "sheila shine".

Dean



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 19:44:07 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: LED Lights Update

That's for the support!
It is nice to see someone who appreciates what I am trying to do.
It seems everytime I start a new thread it comes back to haunt me.

The response to MY LED kit has been fantastic!
I have recieved a ton of orders for them today, and I am going to go ahead 
and order
a another big batch of them.
I think that once people get them on thier cars and see how great they are 
that the
word will spread and people will want more.
I love them!

I have been testing out the 1156 LED's for the rear lights, but believe it 
or not
the only one that looks good is the running light.
The brake lights are too centered and don't look that great, and the same 
for the white reverse.
The amber blinker does not not look back, it does not have the full spead of 
a regular bulb and is more concentrated and focused towards the center but 
it is bright and defined.
The 1157's for the front lights and signals are also not very impresive for 
now I will not be selling those.

My next project is working on replacements for the dash lights.
Not only the indicators but the actual lighting.
I am looking into UV Black light, Blue and white.
I think I might go for the BLUE in my car because it will match the screen 
on my
Sony stereo.

Of course, pictures and updates will follow!
Thanks again!
- Videobob
VIN#5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] LED Lights Update
>Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 08:53:28 -0600
>
>Good  work on updating our cars.
>
>BOB
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar  FREE! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 21:07:07 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car update

The raffle car is now at the 50% level for tickets needed to be sold WELL 
WELL ahead of schedule.

For those of you wondering if the car made it to the St Patricks day parade 
well it did not.
Although planned some last minute plans kept many of the DeLorean owners from 
participating this year and we had a computer governor that was not 
cooperating fully so we opted not to do the parade.

The car however is now liscened, running and will be driven for the next few 
months by 
Dave Swingle once we replace or repair the governor board.

The Vendors have really pitched in and added the nice finishing touches. 

DMC Has donated tons of parts for the car and we are photographing them as we 
put them in and will add them to our website as they are complete.

Rob Grady has donate parts as well. Making this car a real gem.

Don Steger, John Hervey and Dave Bauerle have also contributed adding to the 
detail.  

Thats another reason its taking longer.  We never expected to do all this to 
the car but what the heck.  Someone is getting a nice car.

The car really looks sharp and since neither me nor Dave nor Rich can leave 
anything just ok, this car has been gone over real well and will be a real 
prize for the winnner.

The new tires and the front end cleaning make this car steer like it has 
power steering.  It is really nice to handle.

Well thanks and good luck 

Detailed pictures will be in the next issue of DeLorean Car Show Magazine in 
a few weeks.
Most of these will be different than the ones on the web page.
Don't miss it.  This will be DeLorean History in the Making.

Thank you all soo much for your support.
Without you and your support none of this is possible.

Ken
www.deloreancarshow.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 03:12:21 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Brass Manifold Screws

You're half right. Renault certainly DID employ CIS on later models of 
their PRVs, my "bible" is the Renault K-Jet manual describing all manner 
of permutations of different forms of the PRV's Injection, ignition, 
fuel and idlespeed systems. I have fantastically thorough fault 
diagnosis pages (eg proper pin-outs on idlespeed computer), cutaway 
views of the metering head and full explanations of all the system parts 
and how to adjust them _properly_.

The brass screws on the Volvo 760 are not shear type, the engine has CIS 
and the Volvos were set up correctly allowing proper balancing of the 
banks. Renault also describe the procedure. The DeLorean manual is a 
simplified system but does not give as much flexibility as is sometimes 
needed when factory tolerances are not quite spot on (eg centre position 
of idlespeed valve). As well as preventing the engine from ever being 
proerly "fine tuned". The ports are there o the exhaust to achieve it.

Continued blind acceptance of the DeLorean manual as gospel regarding 
the idlespeed screws is quite simply wrong. The fine adjustment is so 
fine in most cases that it makes no noticable difference, but for one 
car in five, a proper set up of the screws results in a smoother more 
reliable idle.

Martin
DMUK

content22207 wrote:

>Note also that Renault never adopted CIS -- it never used shear head
>style balancing screws. 
>
>Interestingly, last weekend I bought an upper air assembly from a 1989
>B28F that, although CIS equipped, did NOT have shear head balancing
>screws. Either Volvo itself or a previous owner had adopted John
>Hervey's philosophy by the end of the decade.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>  
>
>  
>





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 20:41:01 -0800 (PST)
From: benjamin strand <benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Air Bleed Screw

I'm planning on flushing the coolant system this Saturday.  I know I need to hook a small hose from the air bleed screw into a bucket of coolant.  I was wondering if someone knew the diameter of the vacuum hose that attachs thereto? 
 
Thanks,
Ben
04613

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 04:46:24 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Raffle car update

Do you have to go to the show to buy tickets for the raffle?


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The raffle car is now at the 50% level for tickets needed to be 
sold WELL 
> WELL ahead of schedule.
> 
> For those of you wondering if the car made it to the St Patricks 
day parade 
> well it did not.
> Although planned some last minute plans kept many of the DeLorean 
owners from 
> participating this year and we had a computer governor that was not 
> cooperating fully so we opted not to do the parade.
> 
> The car however is now liscened, running and will be driven for the 
next few 
> months by 
> Dave Swingle once we replace or repair the governor board.
> 
> The Vendors have really pitched in and added the nice finishing 
touches. 
> 
> DMC Has donated tons of parts for the car and we are photographing 
them as we 
> put them in and will add them to our website as they are complete.
> 
> Rob Grady has donate parts as well. Making this car a real gem.
> 
> Don Steger, John Hervey and Dave Bauerle have also contributed 
adding to the 
> detail.  
> 
> Thats another reason its taking longer.  We never expected to do 
all this to 
> the car but what the heck.  Someone is getting a nice car.
> 
> The car really looks sharp and since neither me nor Dave nor Rich 
can leave 
> anything just ok, this car has been gone over real well and will be 
a real 
> prize for the winnner.
> 
> The new tires and the front end cleaning make this car steer like 
it has 
> power steering.  It is really nice to handle.
> 
> Well thanks and good luck 
> 
> Detailed pictures will be in the next issue of DeLorean Car Show 
Magazine in 
> a few weeks.
> Most of these will be different than the ones on the web page.
> Don't miss it.  This will be DeLorean History in the Making.
> 
> Thank you all soo much for your support.
> Without you and your support none of this is possible.
> 
> Ken
> www.deloreancarshow.com
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 22:51:59 -0800
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Stainless

If your DeLorean isn't your "good car" then what, pray tell, is?

Bruce Benson
 
> I took a power washer to it and it looked like new.  Then I tried it on
> my good car and it made it look 10 times better.
> 
> Jack.
 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 00:03:59 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car update

In a message dated 3/18/04 8:48:51 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> Do you have to go to the show to buy tickets for the raffle?
> 
> 
> no 
the winner does not need to be present to win 
go to www.deloreancarshow.com
it has all the rules and regulations 

thanks

ken



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 06:33:10 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: a couple newbie questions

I'm probably going to be purchasing a Delorean this weekend, so I've
been doing quite a bit of research.  I'm looking for two information
resources that I've seen mentioned but not linked to:

A parts interchange / compatibility list or database

A list of good service locations beyond the few big ones (i.e. where
Delorean trained mechanics work, owners have had good results, etc..)

I live in Memphis, TN, which sorta poisons my search results for
finding local Delorean info.  :-)  If there is no service location
nearby, does anyone have a recommendation for the type of service
place to seek out (i.e. import shops with Volvo listed as a
specialty)?  I plan to do most work myself, but I just don't have the
experience or equipment for some procedures, so I want backup.

Thanks in advance!




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 06:42:27 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: LED Lights

Hello List,
  This subject comes up once and a while. I have been telling other 
DMLers about the LED's on my car for a few years now. And I'm 
usually contacted by others wanting to know where I purchased my 
LED's or how I made them. I always meant to update my new web page. 
http://home.comcast.net/~mquinto/led.html
Over the years I purchased a number of LED 1156 and 1157's from 
various companies. The brightness from these bulbs were just not 
there. The only one I ever found to be considered as a taillight or 
blinker replacement light is the Jamstrait HYPER-BRIGHT series NOT 
the SUPER-BRIGHTS. I did get that projection circle on my taillight 
lens. So I spaced the taillight boards out a little and this reduced 
it quite a bit. I've had Jamstrait bulbs on my taillights for over a 
year now without any problems. I've had cops behind me quite a few 
times while using my signals or brake lights and had never been 
pulled over.
There is a new company I found that sells allot of LED bulbs for 
different applications. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-
bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR
Some of there 1156 and 1157 bulbs have a wider viewing angle. But I 
never purchased anything from them so I couldn't tell you how good 
they are.
I believe John Hervey was investigating a kit awhile back as well, I 
don't know if he still is or not? If he still is, I know it would be 
a good kit.
 Sorry, I never entertained the idea of making a kit myself I didn't 
want to be responsible for selling something that may not be DOT 
approved. I'm sure there would be some sort of liability risk. 
Someone would rear end a DeLorean owner and claim he modified his 
Taillights. Anyway since I never found an aftermarket BA7 bulb for 
the A/C Panel I purchased the indiglow A/C panel from Ryan Gould. I 
had him do it in Red to match my Dash illumination. And It looks 
great!

So I gathered up some old emails with this information below.


If you follow this link to the Yahoo groups in photos it will give 
you better detail on the LED's I installed. I meant to transfer 
those pics and info to my web page awhile back. I just can't find 
the time, plus I don't like the web page providers setup. So I don't 
think I will be updating soon.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Led+Dash&.src=
gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/

I purchased Jamstrait 1156 & 194 Hyperbrites from: 
http://www.myroadster.net/led.asp 

My # 733 and # 743 Interior Dome, Engine Compartment, Trunk Light 
and License Plate Lights from: 
http://www.lightingresearch.com/leds/led_dome_lights.htm

My # 73 Hazard and Headlight Switch Light from: 
http://www.happcontrols.com/index.html?
http://www.amusementsplus.com/lighting/915wb61w.htm!


You should check out these guys. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-
bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR I never purchase anything from 
them but they seem to be very inexpensive. They carry all the LED's 
I described above plus the load equalizer for the alt dash light. 

The # 733 or Festoon Bulbs will fit License plate.
and # 743 will fit in all other places.
The 194's will fit the door lights. Mine are custom.
The 1156's will fit in the rear taillights.
The 73's or 74's will fit in the Headlight and hazard switch.
The 1157's will work for front turn signal. Mine are custom.
Side marker lights, maybe available from new vendor. Mine are custom.
A/C panel Lights, none available. Mine are Indiglow.
Why I made custom LED's in certain places, at the time these were 
not available or too expensive. I didn't bother changing them over. 
They all seem to be still functioning without a problem.

DASH INFO
Do red for red amber for amber. I used white LED's for blue & green 
lenses, they worked very well. White didn't work behind amber or red 
lens.
And use the Hyper-brites. 

I bought a total of 16 Hyper-Bright Bulbs for the dash.

Below is what I used: 
6 Red Warning Lights - Hyper-brite Red -  #194HR 
5 Dash Illumination - Hyper-brite Red - #194HR ( Whatever color you 
want)
1 Amber Fuel Light - Hyper-Brite Amber - #194HA 
3 Green Turn/Low Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW 
1 Blue High Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW 
 Note: the battery light or charge system will not work with the 
LED, you must have the Load Equalizer installed. Once installed, 
test it by starting the car, and unplug the small charge wire off 
your Alternator. Your Battery Light should come on to signal a 
failure. 

Go to the photo section on how to remove the dash. On a difficulty 
level between 1 and 5. (5 being the hardest) This would be a 2. 
Remember there are no mods except the Load Equalizer. 


Load Equalizer Installation:
This is very simple to install. The Load Equalizer comes with those 
little piggy back clamps. Just jump the load equalizer to the Green 
wire and the other to the Brown & yellow wire near the plug end. The 
White connector is also marked #7 and #9 on the side of the plug. 
Doesn't matter which end of the Load Equalizer you clamp to. You 
will need pliers to squeeze the clamps. Then when you reinstall the 
dash carefully tuck the Load Equalizer in the same area the plug 
comes through. This is just so it is out of the way for installation.

Something important to remember! 

The twist bases for the 194 bulb's can be installed 2 ways or 180 
degrees. But the LED's can only be installed one direction.
When you install the LED's be sure you test them all before 
installing the dash. If one doesn't light remove the base and rotate 
it 180 degrees and it will come on. 
The lambda and the fuel light are not that easy to test. Since you 
can't force them to come on.

So do this: for example install the parking brake light. When you 
have the right orientation that makes it light. Unplug the base and 
move it up towards the Low Fuel light socket and install it, make 
sure you keep the same rotation. Then do the same for the Lambda 
Socket. 
If you buy the mini 74 LED's for the Headlight and Hazard switch and 
or the interior Dome lights, they have to be installed one way also. 
The headlight and the Hazard switch are the only ones that will blow 
a fuse if installed incorrectly. I know I went through a few fuses 
before I figured it out.

Hope this helps
Mike
Vin 1113






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 13:22:27 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: vin #717

I posted these pics last week. My friend will actually buy it next 
month. Be sure I will post more pics as soon as we begin to work on 
it...
Very interesting car... please read the previous posts about this 
car to learn about the oddities. Or email me for details.
regards
Raphael, France




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 08:40:15 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Air Bleed Screw

If I was you I'd just get John Hervey's bleed kit. The hose returns coolant
back into the system eliminating the need to bleed the system ever again.
It's one of the best aftermarket pieces I've bought and it installs in about
5 minutes.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/air-bleeder.jpg

> -----Original Message-----
> From: benjamin strand [mailto:benjamin_strand_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 11:41 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Air Bleed Screw
> 
> I'm planning on flushing the coolant system this Saturday.  I know I need
> to hook a small hose from the air bleed screw into a bucket of coolant.  I
> was wondering if someone knew the diameter of the vacuum hose that attachs
> thereto?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ben
> 04613
> 
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 08:36:13 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: LED Lights

Mike,
Unless something has been done on the Hyper bright white bulbs, Jamstrait
advised me that the bulbs were not made for the type of tail lights lenses
we have and the cost was very expensive. The current savings was
considerable ( if ) all the bulbs were on at the same time, but during my
investigation the current was not worth the money. If you are worried about
2 or 3 amps then there may be something wrong with your charging system. All
the bulbs are not on at the same time. I did discover replacement bulbs that
draw 1/2 the current and put out 80% of the light with the same 360 degree
light luminance but nobody seem interested so I dropped the project for some
better ones.
I also looked into dash lights and consol lights and again dropped the
subject due to directional luminance. If Bob has come up with something else
that will luminate downwards as the dash dictates then that would be great.
Also the consol lights would have to be adaptable to a unusual socket.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike [mailto:mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 12:42 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] LED Lights


Hello List,
  This subject comes up once and a while. I have been telling other
DMLers about the LED's on my car for a few years now. And I'm
usually contacted by others wanting to know where I purchased my
LED's or how I made them. I always meant to update my new web page.
http://home.comcast.net/~mquinto/led.html
Over the years I purchased a number of LED 1156 and 1157's from
various companies. The brightness from these bulbs were just not
there. The only one I ever found to be considered as a taillight or
blinker replacement light is the Jamstrait HYPER-BRIGHT series NOT
the SUPER-BRIGHTS. I did get that projection circle on my taillight
lens. So I spaced the taillight boards out a little and this reduced
it quite a bit. I've had Jamstrait bulbs on my taillights for over a
year now without any problems. I've had cops behind me quite a few
times while using my signals or brake lights and had never been
pulled over.
There is a new company I found that sells allot of LED bulbs for
different applications. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-
bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR
Some of there 1156 and 1157 bulbs have a wider viewing angle. But I
never purchased anything from them so I couldn't tell you how good
they are.
I believe John Hervey was investigating a kit awhile back as well, I
don't know if he still is or not? If he still is, I know it would be
a good kit.
 Sorry, I never entertained the idea of making a kit myself I didn't
want to be responsible for selling something that may not be DOT
approved. I'm sure there would be some sort of liability risk.
Someone would rear end a DeLorean owner and claim he modified his
Taillights. Anyway since I never found an aftermarket BA7 bulb for
the A/C Panel I purchased the indiglow A/C panel from Ryan Gould. I
had him do it in Red to match my Dash illumination. And It looks
great!

So I gathered up some old emails with this information below.


If you follow this link to the Yahoo groups in photos it will give
you better detail on the LED's I installed. I meant to transfer
those pics and info to my web page awhile back. I just can't find
the time, plus I don't like the web page providers setup. So I don't
think I will be updating soon.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Led+Dash&.src=
gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/

I purchased Jamstrait 1156 & 194 Hyperbrites from:
http://www.myroadster.net/led.asp

My # 733 and # 743 Interior Dome, Engine Compartment, Trunk Light
and License Plate Lights from:
http://www.lightingresearch.com/leds/led_dome_lights.htm

My # 73 Hazard and Headlight Switch Light from:
http://www.happcontrols.com/index.html?
http://www.amusementsplus.com/lighting/915wb61w.htm!


You should check out these guys. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-
bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR I never purchase anything from
them but they seem to be very inexpensive. They carry all the LED's
I described above plus the load equalizer for the alt dash light.

The # 733 or Festoon Bulbs will fit License plate.
and # 743 will fit in all other places.
The 194's will fit the door lights. Mine are custom.
The 1156's will fit in the rear taillights.
The 73's or 74's will fit in the Headlight and hazard switch.
The 1157's will work for front turn signal. Mine are custom.
Side marker lights, maybe available from new vendor. Mine are custom.
A/C panel Lights, none available. Mine are Indiglow.
Why I made custom LED's in certain places, at the time these were
not available or too expensive. I didn't bother changing them over.
They all seem to be still functioning without a problem.

DASH INFO
Do red for red amber for amber. I used white LED's for blue & green
lenses, they worked very well. White didn't work behind amber or red
lens.
And use the Hyper-brites.

I bought a total of 16 Hyper-Bright Bulbs for the dash.

Below is what I used:
6 Red Warning Lights - Hyper-brite Red -  #194HR
5 Dash Illumination - Hyper-brite Red - #194HR ( Whatever color you
want)
1 Amber Fuel Light - Hyper-Brite Amber - #194HA
3 Green Turn/Low Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW
1 Blue High Beam - Hyper-Brite White - #194HW
 Note: the battery light or charge system will not work with the
LED, you must have the Load Equalizer installed. Once installed,
test it by starting the car, and unplug the small charge wire off
your Alternator. Your Battery Light should come on to signal a
failure.

Go to the photo section on how to remove the dash. On a difficulty
level between 1 and 5. (5 being the hardest) This would be a 2.
Remember there are no mods except the Load Equalizer.


Load Equalizer Installation:
This is very simple to install. The Load Equalizer comes with those
little piggy back clamps. Just jump the load equalizer to the Green
wire and the other to the Brown & yellow wire near the plug end. The
White connector is also marked #7 and #9 on the side of the plug.
Doesn't matter which end of the Load Equalizer you clamp to. You
will need pliers to squeeze the clamps. Then when you reinstall the
dash carefully tuck the Load Equalizer in the same area the plug
comes through. This is just so it is out of the way for installation.

Something important to remember!

The twist bases for the 194 bulb's can be installed 2 ways or 180
degrees. But the LED's can only be installed one direction.
When you install the LED's be sure you test them all before
installing the dash. If one doesn't light remove the base and rotate
it 180 degrees and it will come on.
The lambda and the fuel light are not that easy to test. Since you
can't force them to come on.

So do this: for example install the parking brake light. When you
have the right orientation that makes it light. Unplug the base and
move it up towards the Low Fuel light socket and install it, make
sure you keep the same rotation. Then do the same for the Lambda
Socket.
If you buy the mini 74 LED's for the Headlight and Hazard switch and
or the interior Dome lights, they have to be installed one way also.
The headlight and the Hazard switch are the only ones that will blow
a fuse if installed incorrectly. I know I went through a few fuses
before I figured it out.

Hope this helps
Mike
Vin 1113






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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 15:19:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Brass Manifold Screws vs Centralized Idle

If I'm not mistaken the whole purpose of idling off the manifold
screws, vs simply cracking the throttle plates like an old fashioned
carburetor, is to take some of the rock & roll out of the odd firing
sequence. If so:

There is no way to properly balance a PRV with CIS only. The idle
speed motor meters both banks equally through the centrally located
cold start tube. Net effect is exactly the same as *VARIABLY* cracking
the throttle plates. 

Nearly all my Renault & Volvo literature is dated 1983 - earlier, so I
may indeed be mistaken Re: late decade blocks. Z7V's and B27E's were
100% manually tuned.

I've yet to find any acronym for fuel injection in my early Renault
literature. Did they later adopt Volvo nomenclature (CI)?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> You're half right. Renault certainly DID employ CIS on later models of 
> their PRVs, my "bible" is the Renault K-Jet manual describing all
manner 
> of permutations of different forms of the PRV's Injection, ignition, 
> fuel and idlespeed systems. I have fantastically thorough fault 
> diagnosis pages (eg proper pin-outs on idlespeed computer), cutaway 
> views of the metering head and full explanations of all the system
parts 
> and how to adjust them _properly_.
> 
> The brass screws on the Volvo 760 are not shear type, the engine has
CIS 
> and the Volvos were set up correctly allowing proper balancing of the 
> banks. Renault also describe the procedure. The DeLorean manual is a 
> simplified system but does not give as much flexibility as is sometimes 
> needed when factory tolerances are not quite spot on (eg centre
position 
> of idlespeed valve). As well as preventing the engine from ever being 
> proerly "fine tuned". The ports are there o the exhaust to achieve it.
> 
> Continued blind acceptance of the DeLorean manual as gospel regarding 
> the idlespeed screws is quite simply wrong. The fine adjustment is so 
> fine in most cases that it makes no noticable difference, but for one 
> car in five, a proper set up of the screws results in a smoother more 
> reliable idle.
> 
> Martin
> DMUK
> 
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> >Note also that Renault never adopted CIS -- it never used shear head
> >style balancing screws. 
> >
> >Interestingly, last weekend I bought an upper air assembly from a 1989
> >B28F that, although CIS equipped, did NOT have shear head balancing
> >screws. Either Volvo itself or a previous owner had adopted John
> >Hervey's philosophy by the end of the decade.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >  
> >
> >  
> >




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 15:32:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Air Bleed Screw

1/4" inside diameter.

I recommend a self bleeder (attached permanently to the coolant
expansion tank). Is fast, easy, and 100% fool proof. You can make your
own, but note thread pattern in thermostat housing is BSPT, not NPT
(28 TPI, not 27). Or simply buy a kit from one of the vendors. 

I think vendors may use 5/16" hose to match the existing bleed line. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, benjamin strand
<benjamin_strand_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I'm planning on flushing the coolant system this Saturday.  I know I
need to hook a small hose from the air bleed screw into a bucket of
coolant.  I was wondering if someone knew the diameter of the vacuum
hose that attachs thereto? 
>  
> Thanks,
> Ben
> 04613
> 
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 10:35:00 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: photos wanted.

Everyone.
 
I was wondering if some of you had some good artistic photos of your D
that you wouldn't mind donating and emailing me with so that i can have
some custom check printed up for me personally. Doors up, doors down,
3/4, side-shots.. all types. High quality needed. The time has come for
me to get some new checks and I wanted to get something better than the
plain-jane ones from my bank.
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com <http://www.88-mph.com/>  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:05:11 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: LED lights

Hi John,
  I remember you and I had this conversation before about lenses. I 
had this same conversation with Jamstrait also. We were looking at 
these replacement bulbs for our military vehicle. We tested them 
through several lenses. The worst was a lens with a swirl pattern. It 
totally absorbed the light.
But for the DeLorean Lenses I believe it works. You had told me that 
you had some samples from Jamstrait you tested. I believe you told me 
it was the Super-Brights. Not the Hyper-brights which are a huge 
difference.

  Also, Amp draw has never been an issue with me. It's 
the response time and the look. 
I did my front blinker, side marker, and door lights 4 years ago. I 
finally did my rear tail lights a year ago after I got rear ended.

As for the Dash I think they fill the dash pretty good and I'm very 
happy the way it all came out. 
Anyone who is interested in the indiglow Dash and A/C panel Kit, I 
think they are great as well. 

Stian I believe is now running Dash LED's now with green illumination.
If your out there Stian, how do they look?

Take care,
Mike 
Vin#1113 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:11:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: photos wanted.

Take a look thru  http://www.dmcnews.com/mydmc.html

I have others that I have not posted yet - but someday. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_8...> 
wrote:
> Everyone.
>  
> I was wondering if some of you had some good artistic photos of 
your D
> that you wouldn't mind donating and emailing me with so that i can 
have
> some custom check printed up for me personally. Doors up, doors 
down,
> 3/4, side-shots.. 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 10:21:49 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Sealing the Fuel Pump Ring

I would like some feedback on an idea I just had while preparing my car for
the trip to Pigeon Forge in June.
 
While in the gas tank, cleaning the rust and other crud out, I noticed that
the (106684 Fuel Pump Cover Seal) still allowed moisture to accumulate
around the top of the fuel pump.
 
I  installed the (101957 Plenum Drain Tube) a couple of years ago to prevent
the water from the air plenum draining onto the fuel pump cover seal.
 
My idea is to use spray urethane foam to fill the the top of the fuel pump
in the (101391 Fuel Pump Ring).
 
The upside that I see is that water would not be able to get to the top of
the fuel pump and seep into the tank.
 
The downside is that it would be an absolute bear to service the pump in the
future.
 
Give me the Good, the Bad and the Ugly of my idea.
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:15:45 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Air Bleed Screw

Don't use vacuum hose for a permanent bleeder installation - it's 
carrying HOT coolant. Must be heater-type hose. Vendor kits will save 
you a lot of running around. Both the fitting ant 5/16 heater hose 
seem to be hard to find sometimes.

If you are just bleeding it, 1/4" is about right but the end on the 
OEM bleeder is so short it easily falls off.

Actually the thread on the thermostat housing is M1.0 pipe thread, 
same as many metric brake bleeder fittings. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 1/4" inside diameter.
> 
> I recommend a self bleeder (attached permanently to the coolant
> expansion tank). Is fast, easy, and 100% fool proof. You can make 
your
> own, but note thread pattern in thermostat housing is BSPT, not NPT
> (28 TPI, not 27). Or simply buy a kit from one of the vendors. 
> 
> I think vendors may use 5/16" hose to match the existing bleed 
line. 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, benjamin strand
> <benjamin_strand_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > I'm planning on flushing the coolant system this Saturday.  I 
know I
> need to hook a small hose from the air bleed screw into a bucket of
> coolant.  I was wondering if someone knew the diameter of the vacuum
> hose that attachs thereto? 
> >  
> > Thanks,
> > Ben
> > 04613





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 12:51:04 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: photos wanted.

I am curious to know where you are getting the checks made - I could
probably go for that myself!

Michael

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Chabotte [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 10:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] photos wanted.

Everyone.
 
I was wondering if some of you had some good artistic photos of your D
that you wouldn't mind donating and emailing me with so that i can have
some custom check printed up for me personally. Doors up, doors down,
3/4, side-shots.. all types. High quality needed. The time has come for
me to get some new checks and I wanted to get something better than the
plain-jane ones from my bank.
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com <http://www.88-mph.com/>  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 17:27:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Stainless

I would be careful hitting a car with a high pressure washer.
Especially an older car where the weatherstripping and seals are old
and hard. You will force water into areas of the car that should not
get wet and may take a long time to dry out. Be especially careful
around the motor. With older ignition wires water will get into the
spark plug wells and short out the plugs. Besides, the car is small
enough that it doesn't take THAT long to do it by hand. If it is
REALLY bad take it to a car wash first and then finish it by hand. If
the car was in a field for years you have bigger problems underneath
than a little dirt on top! BTW I heard a story about a guy that bought
a car to restore. He put it in his garage and very soon after his
house was infested by SPIDERS!  He had to get an exterminater to clean
up his house, garage, and car! Be careful what you drag in! Some
people are very sensitive to mold. That can be a problem in a car that
was stored outside and leaked or was in a flood.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Nothing works better than a good power wash.  I had a car that sat in a
> field for over 10 years without being cleaned.  It had so much filth
> that you could write your name on it with your finger and it would be





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 12:06:49 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car update

The website says you do not need to be at the show to win the delorean  
or buy tickets, you can buy the tickets on line here....
http://www.xybiz.com/Merchant2/ 
merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Raffle&Category_Code=RAFFLE&Store_ 
Code=X03

Mark V




On Thursday, March 18, 2004, at 10:46 PM, wayofcain wrote:

> Do you have to go to the show to buy tickets for the raffle?
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
>> The raffle car is now at the 50% level for tickets needed to be
> sold WELL
>> WELL ahead of schedule.
>>
>> For those of you wondering if the car made it to the St Patricks
> day parade
>> well it did not.
>> Although planned some last minute plans kept many of the DeLorean
> owners from
>> participating this year and we had a computer governor that was not
>> cooperating fully so we opted not to do the parade.
>>
>> The car however is now liscened, running and will be driven for the
> next few
>> months by
>> Dave Swingle once we replace or repair the governor board.
>>
>> The Vendors have really pitched in and added the nice finishing
> touches.
>>
>> DMC Has donated tons of parts for the car and we are photographing
> them as we
>> put them in and will add them to our website as they are complete.
>>
>> Rob Grady has donate parts as well. Making this car a real gem.
>>
>> Don Steger, John Hervey and Dave Bauerle have also contributed
> adding to the
>> detail.
>>
>> Thats another reason its taking longer.  We never expected to do
> all this to
>> the car but what the heck.  Someone is getting a nice car.
>>
>> The car really looks sharp and since neither me nor Dave nor Rich
> can leave
>> anything just ok, this car has been gone over real well and will be
> a real
>> prize for the winnner.
>>
>> The new tires and the front end cleaning make this car steer like
> it has
>> power steering.  It is really nice to handle.
>>
>> Well thanks and good luck
>>
>> Detailed pictures will be in the next issue of DeLorean Car Show
> Magazine in
>> a few weeks.
>> Most of these will be different than the ones on the web page.
>> Don't miss it.  This will be DeLorean History in the Making.
>>
>> Thank you all soo much for your support.
>> Without you and your support none of this is possible.
>>
>> Ken
>> www.deloreancarshow.com
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at  
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website's
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
http://www.exoticrides.com/galleries/showgallery.php?ppuser=57




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 12:55:37 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: Re: thickness of stainless steel skin

Well, I got two answers, one from a SS D and one from a painted one.

I forgot to thank David Teitelbaum before, but apparently I should have 
because he sent me an angry email.

So here's a public proclamation:

Thank you David T!!! YOU THE MAN!

That should do it, right?

- Farrar




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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