From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1927
Date: Sunday, March 21, 2004 10:52 AM

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Rust question
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: More performance?
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Car Alarm Question
From: "jpg6661" <jg873_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: Car Alarm Question
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

5. RE: LEDs
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Rust question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Speaker Upgrade and Ground Effects
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Dashboard trim help...
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

9. LED 3898 Available
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>

10. I need a Bricklin Speedometer
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

11. Re: Rust question
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. RE: LEDs
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Re: Car Alarm Question
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

14. Re: Car Alarm Question
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 18:42:52 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Rust question

I am doing a major front end replacement and I'm putting sheet metal
plates over the areas where I welded in order to stregnthen. My
question is-should I zinc primer the underside of the plates in order
to prevent small time rust/surface rust? After everythings finished I
plan on spraying POR-15 over the whole frame so it will hopefully seal
the plate welds and outside and no moisture will likely get in. If I
do this will it be necessary to spray anything on the underside of the
plates? Maybe something more then the zinc primer? To me if its sealed
then it shouldn't even get surface rust...right?-I'm under the
impression that rust is caused by moist air, water, etc and if I can
prevent this by sealing then it will be safe from rust. I will upload
pictures of this project soon. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
for your past and future responses - Dan Benedek #05003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 18:53:40 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: More performance?

Remember that work like this to an engine increases stress on many
parts and can cause great damage -and in the end set you back if you
don't know whats going on or what to do. I had a few newbie friends
who do this kind of thing spending tons of money on performance
parts etc and ended up blowing the whole engine having to spend a lot
more. Like David Teitelbaum said-get books and all the info you can to
avoid something like this. I can tell you how to build 305s/360s and
stuff like that, but when it comes to the exotic expensive DeLorean
PRV-I draw the line :). Dan Benedek #5003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 19:44:00 -0000
From: "jpg6661" <jg873_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Question

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Now that I've moved, my DeLorean will have to be parked in a parking
> lot thats in town once its back on the road- I feel kind of nervous
> even thinking about it knowing the kind people in this world-so I'm
> planning on installing a car alarm. I'm looking at one thats a LCD
> pager alarm-its pretty interesting, although any alarm I get I don't
> plan on hooking anything to the door locks-I only want my key to
> control the lock-not a button. I know that even a car alarm can't 
keep
> a good car theif out but-somethings better then nothing. Anyway, I'm
> sure that there are others who've installed alarms in their DeLorean
> so, what do you guys suggest? how difficult is it to install the 
alarm
> knowing the reputation of DeLorean electrics? Please let me know any
> suggestions at all. Thanks again guys for your past and future
> responses. Dan Benedek #05003

Alarm is not that hard to install, the more features, more work. With 
most systems you can install the features you want. If you don't want 
the keyless entry just don't hook up those wires allthough I don't 
know why you would'nt, it's extreamly convienient. I just installed a 
two way pager system with the door launchers from Delorean Parts NW. 
Works great, many features, programable, wonder why I waited so long. 
I really like the added security of the two way page system and the 
door openers are awesome & work flawlessly. Can even get remote start 
if you want.

           John #5860




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:32:06 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Question

I'm a bit skeptical about installing the door locks to the remote-One
time...with a Malibu I believe it was-I hit the remote trunk release
and at the same moment a car somewhere else in the lot had its alarm
start to sound. The frequencies must have been the same with the one
car's trunk and the other's alarm. This was a few years ago perhaps
technology has improved to remove the cross of frequencies? But I'm
under the impression that there are only so many frequencies for
those. Someone please fill me in, I have a feeling I may be in the
dark about this now. I guess I would just hate to have someone hit a
button on their remote and then all of a sudden my doors unlock and
launch open or something like that. As always thanks for your past and
future responses. Dan Benedek #5003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 16:33:52 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: LEDs

Stain, No body makes the 3898 consol bulb in LED.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_netcom.no]
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 11:23 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] LEDs


Regarding LEDs -

They work fine both in the doors, the dash and as dome lights, but original
bulbs are best for the running lights/brake lights etc.

I'm sure LEDs will be as great behind the AC Panel as in the dash!

Now - WHO on this list can provide BA7 bulbs as LEDs OR make custom BA7 LEDs
for me? I have the centre console apart, so this would be the perfect time
to replace the AC bulbs with LEDs. I have searched everywhere and they are
not to be found...can someone please make custom LEDs for me? I will pay top
dollar.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 00:19:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rust question

Generally when repairing rusted sections if you are not cutting the
entire piece out and splicing in a whole new piece the "best" most
acceptable method is to cut out the rusted part either in a square,
rectangular, or circular pattern, make up a piece of the same
thickness and similar type of steel and weld it into it's place. Grind
the welds smooth and paint. It is more complicated than this of course
but that is the outline. You can use a "weld-through" type primer.
Eastwood sells it and you can get it in any large welding supply.
Plating patches over rusted out sections is not a good way to repair
but I see it often because it is fast to do and takes less skill. If
you can piece a section in properly there is no need to plate over it.
When you cut out the rusted piece you should clean up the "inside" and
seal it somehow. You can use undercoating, wax, or paint. When you
weld your patch in it will burn the paint nearby but a weld-through
primer will last better. Paint the inside of your patch too. The patch
should be about 1/8 smaller than the hole so you can get a good bead
of weld penetrating full thickness. Practice on some scrap first to
develop your technique and try breaking the weld in a vise to test for
strength. You can also cut through to see if you are welding "void
free". Gas welding is easiest for beginners but MIG is preferred with
TIG being the best way to go but requires the Most skill. Keep your
repairs small to avoid warping and distortion. Pick up some books on
welding at a nearby welding supply house. You can also get a lot of
books on this kind of repair at Classic Motorbooks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am doing a major front end replacement and I'm putting sheet metal
> plates over the areas where I welded in order to stregnthen. My
> question is-should I zinc primer the underside of the plates in order
> to prevent small time rust/surface rust? After everythings finished I
> plan on spraying POR-15 over the whole frame so it will hopefully seal
> the plate welds and outside and no moisture will likely get in. If I
> do this will it be necessary to spray anything on the underside of the
> plates? Maybe something more then the zinc primer? To me if its sealed





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 00:46:47 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speaker Upgrade and Ground Effects

Can you elaborate on how you put in the new rear speakers?  Did you 
replace the old ones behind the grill or are they in a new 
location...  Did you follow something like this:
http://www.delorean.org/tgraham/howto_speaker_f.html

I would like to replace my rear speakers but I have heard nothing but 
scary things about getting in there.

Thanks,
Derek


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hey Everyone!!!!!
> Just wanted to let everyone know that we installed new rear 
speakers in 
> vin006746 last night.
> Shannon Y. did a wonderful job, and it only took about 2 hours. 
Thanks 
> Shannon!!!
> Secondly, Im now in the process of looking for ground effects. I 
want to 
> install lighting under
> the car, and the only way to do this is to hind it behind the 
ground 
> effects. If anyone knows
> where I can buy these, please let me know!!! Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Dustin
> 006746
> 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 21:06:44 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Dashboard trim help...

Just wanted to know if anyone has fixed this problem....The black plastic 
trim that goes around the inside of the binnacle and above the dash lens has 
started to pull away at the top.It looks kind of like a sagging headliner of the 
dashboard :-)  You can even see the glue in the opening. I have seen several 
cars with this similar problem. I am guessing any sort of rubber cement and then 
securing the black trim piece until it sets would fix it...anyone repair this 
on your car can tell me what glue they used?? I sometimes have trouble 
glueing plastics...

thanks
Mike C
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 03:17:49 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: LED 3898 Available

Stian,
  The 3898 or BA7 base bulb is available from 
http://www.netdisty.net/cross/ or www.ledtronics.com
When you go to the site search their cross reference list (By 
Incandescent No.) 3898.
This LED bulb is available in 16 colors. From there the links are 
dead.
  I tried emailing them awhile back with no luck. So, you might want 
to give them a call. 
Like I mentioned before, I met there sales guy a couple years ago. 
They were very proud of their products back then.

  If you call them let them know what you want to use them for. They 
might have something with a wider beam. 
And let us know what there prices are.

  Also, I seen their 1156 and 1157 bulbs. They are very nice. They 
fill the housings in our tail lights really good. Except they are 
very expensive. They not only project out like Jamstraits but they 
have LED's that wrap around the base 360 degrees. 
http://www.netdisty.net/netdistyshop/led-automotive.htm

Good Luck,
Mike
Vin# 1113




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 19:20:32 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: I need a Bricklin Speedometer

It just occurred to me that many DeLorean owners have also had Bricklin
experiences, I have both marques and I'm sure others of you do to.  By
any miraculous happenstance, do any of you have a Bricklin Speedometer
you'd be willing to part with?  A rebuildable one would be ok.

Thanks, Les




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 03:45:54 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Rust question

What I am doing is replacing the front section of the frame, not just
the front extension, its a very large piece including the extension,
the shock towers, and even more. I had to cut off the old section and
weld the new section on -but obviously there will be lots of stress on
it. In order to compensate for the stress on the now weakend frame due
to it being cut, I will need to plate to provide and exceed the needed
stregnth in order for my now 2 sectioned frame not to break. I know
that usually the whole frame would be replaced, but with my skills and
experience I believe I can get away with this, and where I have the 2
secions meeting-with the required plating it will hold up just find
and last many more years to come. I have been a mechanic for too long
 and also have been doing classic car restoration for many years so
the welding is not a problem at all-I just wasn't sure about how the
inside of the plating would react to a long period of time after the
work is all finished. To tell you the truth, any work requiring steel
plating (not just frame) that I have done was vehicles for my boss
bought from auctions with all kinds of damage and after refurbishing
are sold- so I never get to see what eventually happens over time. The
DeLorean I own now will be with me until I die (unless it get crashed
god forbid), it is a car I feel that I can never sell. I just need the
frame to last a few years so I can get money together for a stainless
frame. I will soon be finished with the frame and will provide the
pitures to show you the different stages of this interesting repair.
Lastly, will coating the frame with POR-15 seal against moiture-and
how is it compared to the epoxy? I
believe I have a few cans of gray sitting on my self along with
metal-ready but I have never used it thats why I am not sure of the
results. Thanks for your past and future responses-Dan Benedek
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> Generally when repairing rusted sections if you are not cutting the
> entire piece out and splicing in a whole new piece the "best" most
> acceptable method is to cut out the rusted part either in a square,
> rectangular, or circular pattern, make up a piece of the same
> thickness and similar type of steel and weld it into it's place.
Grind
> the welds smooth and paint. It is more complicated than this of
course
> but that is the outline. You can use a "weld-through" type primer.
> Eastwood sells it and you can get it in any large welding supply.
> Plating patches over rusted out sections is not a good way to repair
> but I see it often because it is fast to do and takes less skill. If
> you can piece a section in properly there is no need to plate over
it.
> When you cut out the rusted piece you should clean up the "inside"
and
> seal it somehow. You can use undercoating, wax, or paint. When you
> weld your patch in it will burn the paint nearby but a weld-through
> primer will last better. Paint the inside of your patch too. The
patch
> should be about 1/8 smaller than the hole so you can get a good bead
> of weld penetrating full thickness. Practice on some scrap first to
> develop your technique and try breaking the weld in a vise to test
for
> strength. You can also cut through to see if you are welding "void
> free". Gas welding is easiest for beginners but MIG is preferred
with
> TIG being the best way to go but requires the Most skill. Keep your
> repairs small to avoid warping and distortion. Pick up some books on
> welding at a nearby welding supply house. You can also get a lot of
> books on this kind of repair at Classic Motorbooks.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:03:44 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: LEDs

John, you and I have talked about this in length, as well as I with others 
on this list.
So I address those of you out there who might want to do make this 
modification.
John had come up with the concept of breaking the original bulb and 
soldering in LED's into
the actual lamp housing, however this is tedious work and might not be cost 
effective.
You would need to be a master with a soldering iron to do it!

I have found 194 style bulbs, and others that might work however you would 
need
to cut the wires and patch them in.
You may also need to use a hot-glue gun to put the bulbs in.
I have also found some bulbs that have a custom made "cone" in the bulb that 
will
emit light from the sides, as well as out front...however they are not very 
bright.
I am working on this concept.

I am also working on a new indiglo style dash and console.
I know that DART already made one of these and his look fantastic and are a 
great price.
My only person critique would be that the versions I have seen of his are 
only one color,
(there are no reds, etc.) and it seems that he went with a whole new style.
My plan would be to replicate the original dash exactly, only backlit using 
white indiglo
with either the 85 or 160 speedo.
I am also experimenting with a "glowing" needle.
However this modification may require the use to send in their dash for me 
to do the mod.
I will let everyone know how it is coming as it progressing.

My goal is too to upgrade our cars using modern technology and to make them 
as
user friendly as possible so that we can use them as daily driver more 
often, keeping them in the public eye.
These cars are a deep passion of mine, and though I am a "newbie" to many of 
you because
I have only had the car since November, but this car has been in my mind 
since I was a little boy.
Also, it was brought to my attention that a few people felt like I was 
"bitching" about some recent purchases I made from Don Stegar and Rob Grady.
That is not true, and I guess it came out the wrong way.
The products I have bought from both of them have been fantastic and I have 
talked to both
of them on the phone many times and they are very helpful and I appreciate 
their help
and I highly recommend them.
I know that I am not stepping into the Delorean Products Selling market but 
I have tried very
hard to find and sell items that are not sold by anyone else in our 
community so that I don't
step on anyone's toes.
If all of us specialize in our little things then we can all get along.
All of us contribute in our own little ways and all of these contributions 
help
to make it possible to own these cars and enjoy them the way they were 
intended
instead of being museum pieces that collect dust at the Imperial Palace in 
Vegas!
This amazing museum quality car is in my driveway and I use it to go for 
milk and bread
and people blink in disbelief when they see it.

We are all blessed as owners of these cars!

Thanks again!
- Videobob
VIN#5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: [DML] LEDs
>Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 16:33:52 -0600
>
>Stain, No body makes the 3898 consol bulb in LED.
>John Hervey
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_netcom.no]
>Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 11:23 AM
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] LEDs
>
>
>Regarding LEDs -
>
>They work fine both in the doors, the dash and as dome lights, but original
>bulbs are best for the running lights/brake lights etc.
>
>I'm sure LEDs will be as great behind the AC Panel as in the dash!
>
>Now - WHO on this list can provide BA7 bulbs as LEDs OR make custom BA7 
>LEDs
>for me? I have the centre console apart, so this would be the perfect time
>to replace the AC bulbs with LEDs. I have searched everywhere and they are
>not to be found...can someone please make custom LEDs for me? I will pay 
>top
>dollar.
>
>Best wishes
>Stian Birkeland
>Norway
>
>VIN # 06759
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get tax tips, tools and access to IRS forms  all in one place at MSN Money! 
http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/home.asp




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:13:59 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Car Alarm Question

On Mar 20, 2004, at 5:32 PM, TalksToGod wrote:

>  I'm under the impression that there are only so many frequencies for
> those. Someone please fill me in, I have a feeling I may be in the
> dark about this now. I guess I would just hate to have someone hit a
> button on their remote and then all of a sudden my doors unlock and
> launch open or something like that.

It is true that there are only so many frequencies. But with modern 
alarm systems this is irrelevant. All current systems (unless they are 
total junk) use digitally-encoded signals with millions of unique 
codes. Moreover, most of them use "rotating code" schemes that protect 
against "captured" codes and other spoofing techniques.

The days when an airplane flying overhead could cause your garage door 
to open are long gone.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 04:48:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Question

Dan - Technology has made some fantastic advances in the last few 
years, and the problem that you mention is no longer an issue.  Most 
quality systems use digital encryption that creates literally 
billions of possible combinations.  It's no longer an analog signal 
on a radio carrier wave.  Some of the higher end alarm systems are 
unbelievable in what they can do, and what they can prevent others 
from doing (such as "hacking" into your system).  The qualifier here 
is that you need to look at good systems.  Something that you pick 
up for under ten bucks at Walmart (no offense) may use old and 
obsolete technology.  In short, your concerns have been taken care 
of.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I'm a bit skeptical about installing the door locks to the remote-
One
> time...with a Malibu I believe it was-I hit the remote trunk 
release
> and at the same moment a car somewhere else in the lot had its 
alarm
> start to sound. The frequencies must have been the same with the 
one
> car's trunk and the other's alarm. This was a few years ago perhaps
> technology has improved to remove the cross of frequencies? But I'm
> under the impression that there are only so many frequencies for
> those. Someone please fill me in, I have a feeling I may be in the
> dark about this now. I guess I would just hate to have someone hit 
a
> button on their remote and then all of a sudden my doors unlock and
> launch open or something like that. As always thanks for your past 
and
> future responses. Dan Benedek #5003




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------