From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1935
Date: Friday, March 26, 2004 8:10 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. RE: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>

3. Re: door openers
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. NEW POLL - All about radios
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

6. Warning For Parts On E-Bay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: 5 Speed/ Grey - On eBay in Texas
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. RE: Re: sound system upgrading
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound system upgrading)
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

11. DART Folder in Pictures section
From: Mike M <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>

12. Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: Mike M <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>

14. aluminum & stainless [was: custom-made gas-flap door]
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

15. Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. History of Gull Wing Cars
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

17. Re: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Re: sound system upgrading
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Manual Transmission Fluid
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: 5 Speed/ Grey - On eBay in Texas
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

21. Re: sound system upgrading
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. RE: Warning For Parts On E-Bay
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

24. Re: Warning For Parts On E-Bay
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com

25. Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 22:29:25 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

Ed - When you put aluminum and stainless steel (or mild steel for 
that matter) together in close proximity, and add moisture, you get a 
wonderful battery.  The aluminum starts to dissipate, leaving a white 
powdery corrosion product called aluminum oxide.  All European cars 
with aluminum skins attached to steel frames require a isolator ply 
between the two materials to prevent the body skins from 
disappearing.  In the aerospace industry, when we put aluminum and 
stainless steel together (which happens a lot) we apply two coats of 
a chromium-rich epoxy primer to each material, so we have four coats 
of paint for protection.  We also fay seal the pieces together with a 
high-performance sealant so that no moisture can get between the 
layers of dissimilar materials, and install all fasteners with 
sealant as well.  In short, without extensive protection, putting 
them together is a bad idea.


Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:

> Can anyone give me a definitive answer with respect to dissimilar 
metal galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum?
> 
> Is it a problem or not?





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 13:38:39 -0600
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>
Subject: RE: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

Aluminum and SS are relatively far apart in the Galvanic Series, which means
that there is a good potential for high galvanic cell voltage.  Of course,
for this to be a problem, you need an electrolyte between the metals.
Unless it is submerged or lives in a very humid climate, it shouldn't be a
problem.  If galvanic corrosion does occur, the aluminum will be the anode
so the SS will not be harmed.

Al (no VIN...just lurking!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 11:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Custom Made Gas-Flap door


Interesting concept.  I noted that the flaps shown all appear to be aluminum
so that brings up another issue for me.

Can anyone give me a definitive answer with respect to (and I may be stating
this wrong here but it's the best I can do) dissimilar metal galvanic
corrosion between stainless and aluminum?

Is it a problem or not?

Ed
10541

> I am thinking of installing a custom gas flap.



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 16:15:09 -0500
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: door openers

I built my own door openers two years ago using a remote entry shaved door
kit I bought online for $60.00. It utilizes the large solenoids. It is very
well hidden and I used the existing leftover wires in the door. It has
worked flawlessly since and was almost a no brainer to modify and install.
All modifications are completely invisible. It does have a safety interlock
using a combination of doorlock position and key position. (Just a
tricked-out relay) They won't inadvertently open while driving even if you
press the remote button or in the event of component failure. (It will only
fail on the side of safety) You can even open just the right, left or both
door at once. The choice of actuator was purely happenstance That's what
came with the kit. I'm sure if the kit came with  motor driven units of
proper specification, it would work just fine too. This isn't rocket science
guys.  However, if you are not mechanically inclined or just plain lazy,
Darryl and  many other creative guys give you a nice set of options and they
stand behind their products. (Wouldn't it suck if there were only one brand
of tires or motor oil?) They design it, test it,  package it, guarantee it
and mail it to you. All you have to do is pay for it , follow the
instructions and not screw it up. Some guys like blondes and some guys like
brunettes...pick an actuator and  get it over with.
Either way, there's nothing more impressive than watching those doors glide
open by themselves! I recommend them highly!
Rustproof
1559

----- Original Message -----
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 11:12 PM
Subject: [DML] door openers


>
> I usually remain a lurker but I wanted to comment on Darryl's post
> about door openers. I installed a system years ago which included
> alarm, remote start, keyless entry, and door opening in one combined
> unit. I selected the control unit and motor driven actuators over
> solenoids for specific reasons, mainly the ease in which they could
> be intergrated into the car's existing wiring and the all-in-one
> functionality. I rejected solenoids due to their weight, high inrush
> current, and their suceptability to failure from insulation breakdown
> caused by inductive kickback. The size required also prevents hidden
> installation, something easily acomplished using geared motor driven
> linear actuators
>
> As a machine design engineer I researched many types of actuators for
> the proper specs and robustness and chose one particular brand after
> studying everything available. It later turned out these are the same
> units Darryl (now Toby) offers. They performed flawlessly since day
> one and when the car was disposed of had nearly one thousand total
> operations. (I know this because the system counted each door
> operation.)
>
> Although I didn't get the actuators from Darryl or Toby, in deference
> to the contributions they've both made to the D community I'll
> decline from revealing the source. My point is you can have complete
> faith in them. The Zilla design is vaporware and who knows how long
> it'll be until it's a reality. And although it may offer plug and
> play, installing Darryl's actuators aren't difficult.
>
> The other point I'll make is you should interlock the system to
> prevent unintended door openings. (I'm not sure the Zilla design will
> even offer such a feature.) You may forget to lock your doors and
> even if you do the system should have a safety function built in. It
> can be done many ways, the car I did wouldn't release the doors if
> the speed was over 20 mph. There are simpler ways to implement this
> interlock if you don't wish to sample speed. Darryl is right, why
> wait for something that is available now and has a proven track
> record?
>
> Just my two cents based on experience.
>
> Endotex23
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 01:48:11 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: NEW POLL - All about radios

Hi everyone, I have added a new POLL to the list.
This one is all about the audio system.
I want to better understand how people view the importance of thier
car radio in the Delorean.
Please check out the POLLS section and answer all the questions that
apply to you.
This will be a fun poll, and will help me concentrate on what will be
the best audio upgrades to offer you.

As you may know, I am working on a rear speaker box for our cars.
I am trying to figure out if I should build it with 6x9, or 6 1/2"
speakers that would offer full range and plug directly into our
existing rear speaker wires.... or if I should go with a 8" subwoofer
box that would include an amplifier and rely on the small 3 1/2" front
speakers for all the mids & highs.

My poll will help decide which is the best solution.
I feel that by figuring out what everyone is most interested in,
and offering it for the best prices it will benefit everyone!

Thanks!
- Videobob
VIN#5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:21:57 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

In a message dated 3/24/04 8:19:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Let me know if anyone has any thoughts about this, any suggestions
> or links to better looking caps.

How about an original flap assembly? I think you can still get one from DMC 
Texas, without the hood. Look it up. That's the easy part.  ;-)
Wayne 
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 15:35:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Warning For Parts On E-Bay

Some Delorean parts have recently appeared on E-bay. They are being
sold By Claude Landi aka Bricklin 1024 from Hartford, Conn. Rob Grady
recently bought ALL of these parts. In some cases we left things
behind like the radiator which was all bent up and green. Other parts
we never saw or were hidden. In any case Claude was obligated to give
these parts to Rob and not hold them back and try to sell them on
e-bay. You should not deal with this person and I would be very
suspicious of his descriptions of their condition. IMHO he should
collect whatever he finds that was left behind and arrange to get them
to Rob, not try to sell this stuff. At the very least be very cautious
in what you buy, this person is not to be trusted.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 12:28:02 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 5 Speed/ Grey - On eBay in Texas

If I have time, I am going to try to check this car out.
A few looks at the engine will show it's real miles.
I always check out the rubber on the pedals - if they are very worn then you 
know it
has been driven to death.
I will also check out the boots, hoses and etc.
....that is, if I have time, I have been very busy.
But if there is anyone seriously interested in it and needs me to check it 
out for them
I will be happy to assist any way I can!

- Videobob
VIN#5278


>From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] 5 Speed/ Grey - On eBay in Texas
>Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 22:49:25 -0500
>
>I was looking at that car's pictures, along with some others and some
>points have been brought up.
>
>1. The odometer reads 375.1 miles, yet the trip meter reads 497.6 (you
>can see part of the 4 next to the needle and can be verified with a
>picture editor to zoom in on). It would also appear that the 0's have
>shifted in the odometer so it is very possible that it has rolled over.
>2. Carfax claims invalid vin, at least for the free lookup
>3. The door is propped up in the 014 picture.
>4. Picture 25 shows where a front plate was and the large change in
>color on the bumper, also see eyebrows that I would not expect on a car
>with low miles
>5. The vin is 6312, but it is not listed on the production chronology of
>vins known to exist via the directory and company records, is this the
>true vin?
>6. Arent the facia's suppose to be a darker grey?
>
>I'm not directly trying to make the car sound bad, I'm pointing out
>things that dont seem right for the claimed low milage.
>
>
>Samuel
>
>Robert Moseley wrote:
>
> >If anyone is interested in this car:
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31830&item=2468989129
> >
> >They claim it has 450 original miles, and has never been titled.
> >
> >I can check it out for you if you need since I am near by.
> >I would'nt mind checking it out anyway!
> >- VB
> >
> >

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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 12:14:40 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: sound system upgrading

I will have to look into that concept.
The D-wire harness has a single common ground for the front, and then the 
rear.
So I had to put both fronts on the front ground, and so on.
So far it seems to be working fine, although the speakers were clipping out 
when I
was testing the system un-mounted.
Once I mounted the speakers and the head amp and tightend up the ground 
connections
everything started working fine.
However, I will check into this.
The solution might be to send a direct ground to the head amp ground.
Thanks for the heads up!
- Videobob


>From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: sound system upgrading
>Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 20:04:23 -0000
>
>Bob,
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob"
><videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Of course I used one of *my* radio
> > harness kits, making things easier!
>[snip]
> > My head amp is awesome. It is the Sony MEX-HD1.
>
>What did you do with *your* harness kit
>in relation to speaker grounds?
>Most modern stereos (the MEX-HD1 included) use
>a so called "floating ground" for the speakers.
>Because of this, every speaker MUST be connected separately.
>The DeLorean wiring uses common grounds
>for left and right channels.
>
>Connecting your MEX-HD1 onto the original wiring
>might well run you the risk of blowing the internal
>amps on your $1000,- piece of hardware!!!
>Even with no speakers connected
>on the rear leads (at the moment)...
>
>Jan van de Wouw
>Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
>Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
>
>#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>--------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 21:46:23 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

Hold the door open with a strip of wood -2X4 or whatever you have as
long as it can take the weight. I used a large hex key with a pipe
over it for leverage to turn end of the bar-be VERY careful as if the
key slips under the tension it is possible to break the rear
window-This happened to me and I was lucky enough that it only took a
small chip out of my window- from then on I use a piece of wood on the
lip of the window to prevent any risk of damage. Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:44:30 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound system upgrading)

On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 23:10:35 -0000, Bill Robertson wrote:

> The 4 speaker grounds come together within an inch or so of the
> factory harness connector. Is easy to make your connections there and
> ground each speaker individually. Don't know about blowing anything
> up, but you definitely will get terrible feedback otherwise.

I know Bill and agree. And with a chance of being flamed; I just cut
the wiring and re-wired to the ISO-standard commonly used now...
I also cut the original Radio Bracket to accept my DIN-size Head Unit.

But the whole idea of using VideoBob's little Harness Kit is not having
to cut any wires. The standard Harness only has 9 wires in it, while
most modern stereos are connected with 12 to 16 (or more) wires...

So I'm very curious how this problem was addressed...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 09:20:43 -0500
From: Mike M <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>
Subject: DART Folder in Pictures section

Where can I get that dash stuff, can it be ordered and how much?



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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:16:06 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!

In a message dated 3/25/04 1:56:29 PM Central Standard Time, 
delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> ok...... i have a very high idle... when i say idle i'm talking 4500 
> rpms!!! and when i put it in gear pttt nothing... no go....; i have 
> abosolutly NO power at all.... it is as lean as #$%^.... what the #$%
> ^?.... all my vacuum lines are fine, brand new spark plaugs, wires, 
> lines, acumiator, pump, o2 senor... i checked for air leaks and 
> nothing was found.... i gutted my cat. aaaaaggggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!! 
> someone please help me!!!

>>>
Are you sure the throttle cable isn't hung up where it goes thru the black 
plastic sheath, as it is routed thru the metal throttle cable guide?  Sounds 
exactly like a brief problem I had one afternoon - that was the solution.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:19:54 -0500
From: Mike M <kenshin_at_dml_otaku-wired.net>
Subject: Re: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

Is it really that hard, from the look of it, it looks pretty easy as 
long as you have someone to help and all.  I would have never thought, 
unless something slipped while you were torqueing on it that it could 
cause any damage at all, other then to you that is.

Mike, #4671

Dave Swingle wrote:

>With the door open, the torsion bar should have about another 90 
>degrees of pre-load twist to it. Support the door open while you do 
>this. If you need to twist it more than 90 degrees, replace the gas 
>strut. Over-twisting the bar to compensate for a weak strut is often 
>why they break. 
>
>The other test is that when the door is allowed to hang with the gas 
>strut removed, it should stay open 8-12 inches at the bottom. 
>
>Overall this is a pretty twitchy operation with a lot of room for 
>error (like breaking the glass, balooning the end of the torsion bar, 
>cutting the roof, hurting yourself) so you ought to find a local 
>helper who's done it. Dave Bauerle is a commercial shop in your area 
>(Radnor). 
>
>
>Dave S
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>  
>
>>Hi everybody,
>>
>>The torsion bar on my passenger side door snapped in half.  I have 
>>    
>>
>a replacement for it, but when I installed it, there is no support to 
>hold the door up.  Can anybody help me out?  Wh at is the proper way 
>to install it?  Thanks.
>  
>
>>John Pietrowski
>>Toledo OH VIN#4945
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 17:57:18 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: aluminum & stainless [was: custom-made gas-flap door]

Yes, aluminum and stainless are a bad combination!!! I can't speak for 
DeLorean reference as I don't own one yet, but I had a set of cookware 
which was stainless steel, but the bolts for the handles were aluminum! 
I removed the handles before they got too corroded and installed some 
copper washers. This seems to have worked.

Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
VIN TBA




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 23:38:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!

Re: no power "in gear" -- is your transmission manual or automatic? If
I understand David T correctly, DeLo automatics fail safe in higher
gears when the solenoids malfunction. Could have a slipping manual
clutch disc, especially if you're trying to start off in 1st gear at
4500 RPM. Make sure you don't have locked up brake caliper(s). 

Re: high curb idle speed -- welcome to the wonderful world of CIS.
Worked excellently from the factory, but that was 20+ years ago. Today
can be fussy and cantankerous, if it works at all. Just wait until
your idle speed motor sticks CLOSED. The good news is: CIS is
optional, not mandatory. Even K Jetronic PRV's were NOT originally
designed for CIS, and run quite contentedly without it. There are two
methods of alternatively idling manually:
1) Reactivate the brass manifold screws
2) Crack the throttle plates
(Either method of course requires disabling the CIS air passage --
simply remove its short hose between the idle speed motor and cold
start tube and plug the barbs with 3/4" vacuum caps). I've been
running off my manifold screws for more than a year no problem.
Another list member simply cracks his throttle plates like an old
fashioned carburetor. eMail me direct (brobertson(at)carolina.net) to
discuss further. Note that without a supplementary device (auxiliary
air valve for example), manually set idle speed will never vary -- may
require setting higher for summertime A/C compressor load.

Careful running your fuel mixture too lean. A lean mixture burns
hotter than a rich one. Can lead to all sorts of problems in the
combustion chamber (don't forget -- both PRV pistons and cylinder
heads are made of aluminum).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> ok...... i have a very high idle... when i say idle i'm talking 4500 
> rpms!!! and when i put it in gear pttt nothing... no go....; i have 
> abosolutly NO power at all.... it is as lean as #$%^.... what the #$%
> ^?.... all my vacuum lines are fine, brand new spark plaugs, wires, 
> lines, acumiator, pump, o2 senor... i checked for air leaks and 
> nothing was found.... i gutted my cat. aaaaaggggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!! 
> someone please help me!!!




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:34:34 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: History of Gull Wing Cars

Last summer, "Classic & Sport Car" magazine published in Great 
Britain had an article titled "Flights of Fancy". The article 
featured ten cars with gullwing doors plus another ten odd entries. 
Most of these cars were not mass produced. The ten main cars (in 
order) were:
1. Mercedes-Benz 300SL  Developed from the 1952 Le Mans and Carrera 
PanAmericana winner. Years later the car was back with the Wankel 
rotary powered C111.
2. BMW Z9  a four seater coupe powered by a diesel V-8.
3. Delorean DMC 12  the article calls it  a "monumental cock-
up . . . and the Douvrin V6 struggled to haul its heavy stainless 
steel-clad shell with any vigor."
4. GMC L'Universelle  Unveiled in 1955 as a proposal for a delivery 
vehicle. Had a Pontiac V8 front wheel drive.
5. Ital Design Tapiro  This 1970 work of Giorgetto Giugiaro had gull 
wing doors over the cabin and engine. It had a 2.4 liter 220bhp flat 
six engine.
6. Borg-Warner CRV  Unveiled in 1966 the Cycolac Research Vehicle 
was built of thermoplastics except for engine, wheels and steering 
column. A special version was built and used in the "Man From 
U.N.C.L.E." TV series.
7. Lamborghini TP200 Marzal  It was based upon a Miura chassis with 
a rear-mounted 2 liter slant 6 engine. This came out about 1967.
8. Aston Martin Bulldog  this car had a mid-mounted twin turbo that 
allowed it to go nearly 200 mph. It had a tubular chassis. The writer 
states "Aston MD Mike Loasby, who initiated the Bulldog project, left 
Newport Pagnell to flog another dead gull with John Delorean."
9. Ferrari 250 P5  Appearing in 1968, this car had a rear engine 
400bhp 3 liter V12.
10. Mazda AZ-1 This was a Japanese `K-Car' powered by a rear mounted 
657 cc triple.

Other gull wings were Bricklin SV1, Imp-based Mirage K18, Toohey 2E, 
Pellandini Sports Coupe, Astra Coupe X-Treme and Dare DZ.

Other odd mentions: Bertone `Zero', Ikenga McLaren CanAm racer, 
Ferrari PF Modulo, BMW Isetta, Nova, Toyota Sera, Bond Bug, Sbarro 
Challenge, BMW Z1, Messerschmitt KR200.

The writer did not like the Deloreans and didn't even bother putting 
a picture of the car in the article although he did have a BTTF 
poster in it.

Shannon Birdwell
Houston




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 17:52:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?

Yes..

I have provided a good bit of information to the list
on the Legend project.  You may want to search the
archives.

If you have specific questions, I can try an answer
them..  If I dont know the answer, I will make
something up that sounds good.  :)  

Or... you can come to Pigeon Forge, and ask Fred
Dellis yourself!


There were 2 primary configurations that Legend was
working on.  The initial project was what you see on
502.  It was a twin turbo setup with intercoolers.. 
Later on, they did build 2 single turbo prototypes as
an atempt to cost reduce the project.

You say you have seen photos of "a few others"?  502,
and 1860 are the only 2 DeLoreans I know of currently
with Legend twin turbo engines installed.  You may
have seen photos of the aftermarket Island kit, which
many people have tried to pass off as Legend.  They
are VERY different.  I have seen no public photos of
the single turbo setup from Legend.

Marc

--- spaceace3113 <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Does anyone on the list know the differences in the
> various turbo 
> prototypes? I recall seeing pictures of both 502 and
> a few others 
> and all of them looked different Lastly, is there
> any documentation 
> on the specs of these cars of Legend at all?
> 
> Thanx in advance
> Harry 2696
> 
>

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 12:18:18 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: sound system upgrading

My tweeter is not touching the dash, I used some small nuts to create a 
spacer.
Besides, most of the tweeters now a days are enclosed in a little plastic 
shield for cosmetic
reasons and would prevent the speaker from actually touching the dash.

About the DVD.... maybe I missed that one?
Send me a private message about it.
- VB


>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [DML] Re: sound system upgrading
>Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 16:43:55 -0800 (PST)
>
>Bad idea to create pressure on the tweeter to the
>dashboard.  you will damage the dashboard, and the
>speaker will not sound as good because it does not
>have a tight seal around the dash.
>
>There are a number of speakers that will fit
>properly..  Go buy a set of them.
>
>Also Bob, you never responded to my direct e-mail
>asking you about your DVD...  Are you having a problem
>with your mail?
>
>
>--- Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
><SNIP>
>
> > The other issue is that almost all of the speakers
> > now-a-days have a little
> > tweeter sticking up in the middle.
> > To compenate for this I first thread on one of the
> > same sized nuts as a
> > spacer.
> > (washers will never work because you will never get
> > them to stay in place)
> > I also ended up bending the "ears" of the speaker to
> > give more space.
><SNIP>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 02:41:10 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Manual Transmission Fluid

Hello:

As I am planning and moving forward with the repairs and upgrades on
my DeLorean, the issue of changing out the fluid in my manual
transmission. After attempting to do some research on this subject, I
am in still need of advice. Do I really need to do this procedure?

The car sat unmoved for close to 20 years. When I removed the oil that
was in the vehicle when I first got it, the oil had somewhat
seperated. Would this happen also to the transmission fluid?

If I do need to go ahead and change the fluid, is there any other
activites I need to perform when doing this? I believe I remember
seeing an older post by DMCJoe stating that I needed to replace my
rubber seals, etc when doing this procedure.

Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

Thanks,
Ej
Vin 4475




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 19:42:38 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 5 Speed/ Grey - On eBay in Texas


The car sold last night.   Someone used Buy-It-Now for $19.5K but 
maybe the dealer will let you check it out anyway.  I'd be very 
curious to hear a first-hand opinion  to see if this is the "one that got 
away."

..................LP <poking head out through lurk mode>

> If I have time, I am going to try to check this car out.
> A few looks at the engine will show it's real miles.
> I always check out the rubber on the pedals - if they are very worn
> then you know it has been driven to death. I will also check out the
> boots, hoses and etc. ....that is, if I have time, I have been very
> busy. But if there is anyone seriously interested in it and needs me
> to check it out for them I will be happy to assist any way I can!
> 
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278
> 
> 



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 04:52:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: sound system upgrading

As a trained engineer I am always concerned about weight. I have a lot
of experience with cars, boats, airplanes, and helicopters. Weight is
ALWAYS a top concern in any design. In almost any modifacation you
tend to add weight. It is a lot harder to increase the power to allow
for the increased weight. One of the most important determinates is
power-to-weight ratio. It is always cheaper to reduce weight than to
add power. I don't say NOT to use Dynamat, just use it sparingly.
Maybe cut it up into strips and lay it in so it keeps the panels from
vibrating. It reduces the sound by adding mass so it is the least
desirable way to go. Try using spun fiberglass. It is very low density
and reduces sound transmission through the air. It also insulates so
it can help with heating and cooling which Dynamat can't. 20 pounds
here, 30 pounds there and before you know it the car can be
overweight. Look at all the stuff most people stick in the trunk. Many
people tend to forget that weight also affects gas mileage. handling,
alignment, and tire wear. VB would have a hard time trimming out my
helicopter without adding A LOT of ballast to keep the CG within
limits! A car is designed for the "average" driver which is usually
somewhere between 150 and 200 lbs. Of course today's average seems to
be getting bigger! Maybe that's why we are seeing so many Hummers on
the road!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I would have to agree.
> The stuff he is talking about is usually called "Dynamat".
> A big roll of it only weighs about 20 pounds or so.
> 
> Besides, the purpose of this stuff is to dead the sound of vibration.
> If you have ever been at a stop light and have some "homies" pull up
next to 





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 05:02:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

The "other Bob" (Bob Brandys) has already fitted one -- see Message
#32323. Used to be pics of the finished installation in the photos
section. Looked factory original.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> How about an original flap assembly? I think you can still get one
from DMC 
> Texas, without the hood. Look it up. That's the easy part.  ;-)
> Wayne 
> 11174
> 





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 22:01:21 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: RE: Warning For Parts On E-Bay

What's to say that he didn't buy these parts elsewhere after the fact,
and is just turning them around on ebay? If I someone my "entire stock"
of something, there isn't anything preventing me from going out and
buying more of it to sell again.

Just throwing out a scenario here.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 10:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Warning For Parts On E-Bay


Some Delorean parts have recently appeared on E-bay. They are being sold
By Claude Landi aka Bricklin 1024 from Hartford, Conn. Rob Grady
recently bought ALL of these parts.....




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 23:26:08 EST
From: MichaelRPack1_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Warning For Parts On E-Bay






    I know that this subject was mentioned previously. I've been really busy 
& just catching up to my emails. I wanted to respond to the list since my name 
was mentioned & I can add some insight to the experience. In addition, I will 
not stand for the latent mischaracterizations & injurious comments about us 
during our visit with Claude.

    Much has been said about Claude and his repugnant behavior towards us 
during the parts move.  All of us were disappointed in Claude that cold January 
14th 2004 and especially his ignoble ploys towards us now.  Claude didn't care 
about our safety or well being during the move. No effort was made to fix a 
broken ladder which was necessary to climb in order to move the parts, or turn 
the heating system on, or clear the mountains of scrap wood & miscellaneous 
gobbledygook that had to be moved first in order to gain access to the cars & 
parts.  

In addition, after reading Marc Levy's & David Teitelbaum's posts to the 
list, I agree with them 100%. The cars & parts were misrepresented on Ebay. There 
was one (1) new part in the entire inventory and Claude didn't lift a finger 
during the move. However, I must pay him a compliment that he is the world's 
greatest supervisor.

However, trying to stay positive about this experience, Rob, Marc, David and 
I had some great laughs throughout the day.  That evening when we stopped for 
dinner, I looked at the crew that Rob assembled for this move. Despite the bad 
experience that we had that looooooong day, it was worth it to me to fly up 
from Maryland and spend some time with a great group of people.

David & Marc are real troopers. They drove from New Jersey to Connecticut 
that morning. They worked all day in the bitter cold & listened to Claude's 
nonexistent, obtuse version of stainless steel repair techniques. 

After loading the parts & cars into the trailer, they drove from Connecticut 
to Long Island in a snow & ice storm. They were separated and lost from Rob & 
I on the way back to PJ Grady. They dropped off David's trailer, sometime 
after 2:30am, then decided to drive back to New Jersey in the blizzard. The entire 
time they never complained. David kept a smile on his face and Marc always 
had a Claude joke ready. 

Rob Grady & I were amazed at the skill that David has driving his truck & car 
trailer in a snow & ice storm.  It wasn't an easy drive, especially with the 
added weight of the parts & cars.  

 The experience with Claude that day was very negative. There is nothing that 
Claude owns that I want. I would never buy anything from him or would I 
recommend him.  His penchant for dismantling those DeLorean's in such a slipshod 
manner proved to me that he is far from ever being an expert on the DeLorean 
marque.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack
Vin 20069

PS. I flew back to Long Island to help unload the parts from the trailer. Rob 
& I unloaded every box from the trailer looking for, what Claude calls, 
misappropriated items. The items in question are a headlight alignment tool (non 
DMC tool) and a starter pistol.  Every box was unloaded and searched. No 
headlight tool or starter pistol was found.   



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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 04:55:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!

More recent history on the car including what you did and why you did
it would be a BIG help. How was it running BEFORE you did this work?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> ok...... i have a very high idle... when i say idle i'm talking 4500 
> rpms!!! and when i put it in gear pttt nothing... no go....; i have 
> abosolutly NO power at all.... it is as lean as #$%^.... what the #$%
> ^?.... all my vacuum lines are fine, brand new spark plaugs, wires, 
> lines, acumiator, pump, o2 senor... i checked for air leaks and 
> nothing was found.... i gutted my cat. aaaaaggggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!! 
> someone please help me!!!




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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