From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1936
Date: Friday, March 26, 2004 2:03 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

2. Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Tivo Alert!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

5. Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: "David Thompson" <oneyogi2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. JZD Estate on "The Apprentice" last night
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

8. RE: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Sway Bar Bushings
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

11. Re: Manual Transmission Fluid
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: JZD House Bedminster Estate on "The Apprentice" last night
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: 1981 wrecked Arizona Delorean on ebay Vin # SCEDT26T5BD006447
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. RE: Custom Made Gas-Flap door
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

15. Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

16. Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

17. Re: Rob Grady Stainless Studs -- Price Quote Please
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. RE: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Delorean to rent in Toronto?
From: "swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

21. Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com

22. RE: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

23. Re: JZD House Bedminster Estate on "The Apprentice" last night
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

24. RE: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

25. RE: Warning For Parts On E-Bay
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:53:50 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

Dave, I have to disagree with you.
Without the gas struts the door should stay open about 2-4 inches,
not 8-12 ! 8-12 means way overtorqued torsion bar !!!! or did you
mean centimeter instead of inches ? 

This brings me again to the point to let all of you know that
there are adjustable and refillable gas struts out there.
(Delorean Club Germany offers them)

We already set this up on Jordans car and took several pictures, 
maybe he will make another How-To of that. 

Elvis




The other test is that when the door is allowed to hang with the gas 
strut removed, it should stay open 8-12 inches at the bottom. 

Overall this is a pretty twitchy operation with a lot of room for 
error (like breaking the glass, balooning the end of the torsion bar, 
cutting the roof, hurting yourself) so you ought to find a local 
helper who's done it. Dave Bauerle is a commercial shop in your area 
(Radnor). 


Dave S




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:39:33 -0500
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!

First off, stop replacing random parts, that's going to cost you more than
you know. Use your manuals and check these components out by the numbers and
try to avoid replacing parts trying for the quick fix. There's nothing worse
than replacing $500.00 worth of parts only to find that all you really
needed is 49 cents worth of rubber vacuum hose. I know it's time consuming
but in the long run you'll be glad you did it. Your post sounds like you're
ready to have a freakin' stroke!  Take a deep breath and chill out. Start
with checking your idle control valve. Then the vacuum lines. Use some carb
cleaner to check for leaks. I know it sucks looking for leaks but they are
usually the culprit. Remember, there may be multiple leaks and/or other
problems. How about the warm-up regulator? Are you getting proper pressure?
Have you installed any "non-Delorean"  parts lately? Check the air/fuel
deflection plate. Is it sticking? Is it centered? 4500 rpms is a pretty
major malfunction and the cause really shouldn't be that difficult to
identify with a little patience. If she is idling that high, look at the
possible causes that can be checked out while the engine is off. I wouldn't
let it run very long at that screeming rpm if you can avoid it. With the
exception of the vacuum leaks, most all systems and components can be tested
with the engine off. The best advice I can give you is get out the manuals
(I assume you have them) and check each system one at a time and do it by
the book. One thing I learned about these cars is there are NO shortcuts. Be
patient.
Good luck.
Rustproof
1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "delorean3469" <delorean3469_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 7:01 AM
Subject: [DML] why my is my DeLorean running crappy?!?!?!


> ok...... i have a very high idle... when i say idle i'm talking 4500
> rpms!!! and when i put it in gear pttt nothing... no go....; i have
> abosolutly NO power at all.... it is as lean as #$%^.... what the #$%
> ^?.... all my vacuum lines are fine, brand new spark plaugs, wires,
> lines, acumiator, pump, o2 senor... i checked for air leaks and
> nothing was found.... i gutted my cat. aaaaaggggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!!
> someone please help me!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 06:14:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

John,
Nice to see your still around!
I'm in BG and work in Toledo. I have done and have the jig & tools needed to
adjust/set the tortion bar. If you need help feel free to contact me off list.  
ssdelorean(at)yahoo.com

Shannon Y
16506

--------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 21:39:13 -0000
   From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

With the door open, the torsion bar should have about another 90 
degrees of pre-load twist to it. Support the door open while you do 
this. If you need to twist it more than 90 degrees, replace the gas 
strut. Over-twisting the bar to compensate for a weak strut is often 
why they break. 

The other test is that when the door is allowed to hang with the gas 
strut removed, it should stay open 8-12 inches at the bottom. 

Overall this is a pretty twitchy operation with a lot of room for 
error (like breaking the glass, balooning the end of the torsion bar, 
cutting the roof, hurting yourself) so you ought to find a local 
helper who's done it. Dave Bauerle is a commercial shop in your area 
(Radnor). 


Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> 
> The torsion bar on my passenger side door snapped in half.  I have 
a replacement for it, but when I installed it, there is no support to 
hold the door up.  Can anybody help me out?  Wh at is the proper way 
to install it?  Thanks.
> 
> John Pietrowski
> Toledo OH VIN#4945

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:46:34 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Tivo Alert!

Thu 4/1 11:00 am(EST) History Channel:  Great Blunders in History "The
Delorean Car"
Kevin Abato
Vin# 18860



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 05:53:54 -0000
From: "David Thompson" <oneyogi2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> 
> The torsion bar on my passenger side door snapped in half.  I have 
a replacement for it, but when I installed it, there is no support 
to hold the door up.  Can anybody help me out?  Wh at is the proper 
way to install it?  Thanks.
> 
> John Pietrowski
> Toledo OH VIN#4945
> 
Hello John, I use a 1/2 drive hex key and a long 1/2 inch breaker 
bar with a jack handle to hold the bar in place while you attach the 
mount plate. When I was with Delorean we held the door up with a 2x4 
cut to length. Be very careful as it is easy to break a rear window 
or strip the nutserts for the mounting plate out of the abs. Good 
luck.




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 02:02:05 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

The harness has 9 wires, I will break them down for you.

1. Constant 12 volt
2. Power on 12 volt
3. Ground
4. Front Ground
5. Left Front
6. Right Front
7. Rear Ground
8. Left Rear
9 Right Rear

Both the front and the rear will share the common ground.
So when the harness adapter is wired in, you will simply wire both of the 
front (or rear)
ground wires to the single ground.
Other wires for ATT, Antenna, AMP Trigger, etc run from the head unit and 
hook up
separately and without cutting in most cases.
The antenna control wire, blue, will plug directly in.
The ATT, used for auto muting installed cell phone systems is almost never 
used,
and the AMP trigger must be run to your amplifier to turn it on and off.
It is reccomended that if you do install an amp, run it's ground wire from 
the same
location as the radio to prevent a HUMM or "ground loop".
Using my harness adapter in this way allows you to connect a new head unit 
to the
existing Delorean wire harness without making a single cut to it.
Instead, my wire harness is the one that get's patched into the head unit 
and will
simply plug directly into the original Delorean wire harness.

This is how my unit is connected and works fine.
If for some reason your head unit needs separate grounds for each speaker 
you would need
to run your own ground connections, however this has never been a problem 
yet.

Alternatively, the other end of my wire harness that is chopped off can be 
added to
the original Craig radio and it could be hooked up to another system if you 
desired.
You could also get (or build) an adapter for your Craig radio and have the 
ability
to quickly pull out your new DIN head amp unit, unplug it from the harness 
and plug
the original Craig back in for use at car shows or concourse competitions.
The switch would take seconds.

* Note:
If you are doing a major radio upgrade, in which you will either cut or 
replace the console plate
to accomadate the new DIN stereo, you will need to remove the center console 
cover that
runs through the middle of the car.
All of the wire harnesses run through this part.
It would be wise to buy 3 sets of 12" RCA stereo cords and run them from the 
head amp
to the back of the car under this console just in case you decide to add an 
amp later.
The 3 sets are for front, rear and sub.
...that is if you plan on adding a speaker box, amp, etc.
But you never know, so that's why I reccomend it so that it is there and you 
won't
have to rip the console apart again to add it.

So far I have sold about 20 of the harness adapters without a single 
complaint, and my
instructions were put together well enough that so far no one has called me 
for tech support yet.

If anyone has any questions please contact me directly.
Thanks.

Videobob
VIN# 5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com

PS- What is "flamed"?

>
> > The 4 speaker grounds come together within an inch or so of the
> > factory harness connector. Is easy to make your connections there and
> > ground each speaker individually. Don't know about blowing anything
> > up, but you definitely will get terrible feedback otherwise.
>
>I know Bill and agree. And with a chance of being flamed; I just cut
>the wiring and re-wired to the ISO-standard commonly used now...
>I also cut the original Radio Bracket to accept my DIN-size Head Unit.
>
>But the whole idea of using VideoBob's little Harness Kit is not having
>to cut any wires. The standard Harness only has 9 wires in it, while
>most modern stereos are connected with 12 to 16 (or more) wires...
>
>So I'm very curious how this problem was addressed...
>
>JAN van de Wouw
>
>Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
>Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
>
>#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>--------------------------------

_________________________________________________________________
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet 
access. 
https://broadband.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:30:43 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: JZD Estate on "The Apprentice" last night

For any of you who are fans of the new Donald Trump show "The
Apprentice", the old JZD Lamington Farms Estate was on the show last
night.  They did a quick 1 minute showing of Trump touring the site and
checking progress of the golf course.  He simple referred to it as a 500
acre golf course he is building in Bedminster NJ, and made no real
mention of JZD.  There were several shots of the estate from his
helecopter, and in one you could see the JZD's old house.

Kevin Abato
Vin# 18860


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 14:13:52 +0000
From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: BROKEN TORSION BAR

Hey John, This is Dustin from Clyde Ohio. Vin #006746
Shannon Y, from BG, and Joe Obrian from Bellevue got together with me and my 
car just this
last week to adjust the bars. All turned out well. I will talk to Shannon 
and see if we can get
together sometime soon to figure out your problem.

Dustin


>From: "Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_toast.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] BROKEN TORSION BAR
>Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 03:17:24 -0500
>
>Hi everybody,
>
>The torsion bar on my passenger side door snapped in half.  I have a 
>replacement for it, but when I installed it, there is no support to hold 
>the door up.  Can anybody help me out?  Wh at is the proper way to install 
>it?  Thanks.
>
>John Pietrowski
>Toledo OH VIN#4945
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar  FREE! 
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 06:19:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

You could also purchase a "dmc" flap from Houston with that hood & install that
yourself. It was talked about not that long ago on the dml. You could research
the archives. If you add "Bob Brandys" to the search you'll have better results.

Shannon Y
16506


----------

  Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 18:31:07 -0000
   From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

>>snip<<

Let me know if anyone has any thoughts about this, any suggestions
or links to better looking caps.

- Videobob
VIN#5278

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 06:16:26 -0800
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Sway Bar Bushings

Are front sway bar bushings the same as for another make of car so I will be
able to buy them locally?

Roland Smith
VIN 6667
Oakland, California





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 14:51:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Manual Transmission Fluid

On a 20 + year old car it is a GOOD idea to replace ALL of the fluids.
This includes the washer fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid, trans, and
engine (oil and coolant). In the case of the manual transmission you
just have to drain the old oil and refill with fresh 85-90W gear oil.
Some may recomend Redline or a synthetic but it really isn't
necessary. My advice is to drive the car to warm up the oil so it
drains easily and puts all the dirt into suspension so when you drain
it all the stuff comes out easily. If the seals are not leaking then
they don't have to be replaced. Maybe he was refering to INSPECTING
the C/V boots. As long as you are under the car they should be
inspected and replaced if cracked or torn. It is also not a bad idea,
again, to take them apart, clean, and lubricate them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello:
> 
> As I am planning and moving forward with the repairs and upgrades on
> my DeLorean, the issue of changing out the fluid in my manual
> transmission. After attempting to do some research on this subject, I
> am in still need of advice. Do I really need to do this procedure?
> 
> The car sat unmoved for close to 20 years. When I removed the oil that
> was in the vehicle when I first got it, the oil had somewhat
> seperated. Would this happen also to the transmission fluid?
> 
> If I do need to go ahead and change the fluid, is there any other
> activites I need to perform when doing this? I believe I remember
> seeing an older post by DMCJoe stating that I needed to replace my
> rubber seals, etc when doing this procedure.
> 
> Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
> 
> Thanks,
> Ej
> Vin 4475




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 16:36:04 -0000
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: JZD House Bedminster Estate on "The Apprentice" last night

I saw that house,last night.  I hope to see it when I go to NJ, I 
cant beleive how big the property is.  Anyone know why he sold the 
place? it looks like a great retirement place to be...I guess he had 
a offer he couldn't refuse. lol.

CG




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 16:29:21 -0000
From: "Charlie G" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1981 wrecked Arizona Delorean on ebay Vin # SCEDT26T5BD006447

Ken K, or PJ Grady,  Let me know if you have any questons about this 
car I'll try my best to answer them, or best thing is to contact the 
seller he will be happy to help and is a pretty honest guy.  The car 
is EXACTLY what he says on ebay.  

 
CG




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 10:14:17 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Custom Made Gas-Flap door

After my post on stainless exhaust studs Martin G. sent me an e-mail
explaining his negative view on combining stainless and aluminum. He
suggested a test which involved soaking a head with our s/s stud installed
for a week in a salt water bath for a week to see if any galvanic action
occurred. I did this test for two weeks in heavily salted water and then
removed the head to dry. There was no trace of rust or galvanic action on
the stud and I unthreaded it by hand after the initial turn to loosen it.
The head however showed a heavy salt buildup suggesting a salinity level
approaching the Great Salt Lake! I did put a dab of high temp Anti-seize on
the installed thread, as we've been doing for twenty odd years on the
original studs when replacing them, and am very confident that this reduces
the chance of galvanic action to a minimum. After about 250 exhaust manifold
jobs I'm looking forward to NOT having to replace the studs every time an
exhaust gasket wears out. BTW we've been changing air cleaner mounting bolts
to stainless for over twenty years and have never had one seize (WITHOUT
using Anti-seize}. This is what led me to believe that, in the real world,
stainless studs (hardened of course) are the way to go in solving the rusted
stud syndrome. I firmly believe that mild steel has a much higher degree of
galvanic action than stainless. Our exhaust kits now feature stainless studs
for those of you interested. I have a number of new products that haven't
made it onto our website yet such as these studs. Unfortunately I'm better
at envisioning and making new products than marketing them. Now....let the
nay Sayers begin!

Robert Grady  

-----Original Message-----
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 5:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Custom Made Gas-Flap door

Ed - When you put aluminum and stainless steel (or mild steel for 
that matter) together in close proximity, and add moisture, you get a 
wonderful battery.  The aluminum starts to dissipate, leaving a white 
powdery corrosion product called aluminum oxide.  All European cars 
with aluminum skins attached to steel frames require a isolator ply 
between the two materials to prevent the body skins from 
disappearing.  In the aerospace industry, when we put aluminum and 
stainless steel together (which happens a lot) we apply two coats of 
a chromium-rich epoxy primer to each material, so we have four coats 
of paint for protection.  We also fay seal the pieces together with a 
high-performance sealant so that no moisture can get between the 
layers of dissimilar materials, and install all fasteners with 
sealant as well.  In short, without extensive protection, putting 
them together is a bad idea.


Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:

> Can anyone give me a definitive answer with respect to dissimilar 
metal galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum?
> 
> Is it a problem or not?





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 15:30:57 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: BROKEN TORSION BAR

Excellent - this is exactly the sort of meet-up that you need, you 
avoid making mistakes, and you find some new people to have local 
tech sessions with.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hey John, This is Dustin from Clyde Ohio. Vin #006746
> Shannon Y, from BG, and Joe Obrian from Bellevue got together with 
me and my 
> car just this
> last week to adjust the bars. All turned out well. I will talk to 
Shannon 
> and see if we can get
> together sometime soon to figure out your problem.
> 
> Dustin
>
> >From: "Pietrowski" <kritter_at_dml_t...>
> >Subject: [DML] BROKEN TORSION BAR
> >Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 03:17:24 -0500
> >
> >Hi everybody,
> >
> >The torsion bar on my passenger side door snapped in half.  I have 
a 
> >replacement for it, but when I installed it, there is no support 
to hold 
> >the door up.  Can anybody help me out?  Wh at is the proper way to 
install 
> >it?  Thanks.
> >
> >John Pietrowski
> >Toledo OH VIN#4945




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 14:58:53 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> The harness has 9 wires, I will break them down for you.
> 1. Constant 12 volt
> 2. Power on 12 volt
> 3. Ground
> 4. Front Ground
> 5. Left Front
> 6. Right Front
> 7. Rear Ground
> 8. Left Rear
> 9. Right Rear

You must have a Different DeLorean from mine 
and the others I've worked on the stereo on...

They all had common grounds for left and right,
not for fronts and rears...

> This is how my unit is connected and works fine.
> If for some reason your head unit needs separate
> grounds for each speaker you would need
> to run your own ground connections, however
> this has never been a problem yet.

I'd check the manual for your Head Unit; in the manuals
for my Kenwoods and those for a couple of Pioneers and 
an Alpine I installed in different cars it's specifically 
stated that connecting the ground wires together will 
damage the unit and will void warranty...

> PS- What is "flamed"?

Being "flamed" is when people call you names on-line,
a "flame war" is a heated "discussion" in that way.
Flames tend to get quite personal and objective...

For a really extended explanation go here:
<http://members.aol.com/intwg/flamewars.htm>

Have a nice weekend,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 17:41:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rob Grady Stainless Studs -- Price Quote Please

Aren't you glad the air filter housing bolts are common 6x1mm!

Please quote us a price for 7x1mm studs with nuts by the piece (I'd
like to convert my internal water pipe bolts too). You may also have a
market converting valve and timing cover bolts. Am afraid the angle of
intake manifold bolts has you clipped.

BTW: Are your studs fully threaded, or do they have a stop in the middle?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> After my post on stainless exhaust studs Martin G. sent me an e-mail
> explaining his negative view on combining stainless and aluminum. He
> suggested a test which involved soaking a head with our s/s stud
installed
> for a week in a salt water bath for a week to see if any galvanic action
> occurred. I did this test for two weeks in heavily salted water and then
> removed the head to dry. There was no trace of rust or galvanic
action on
> the stud and I unthreaded it by hand after the initial turn to
loosen it.
> The head however showed a heavy salt buildup suggesting a salinity level
> approaching the Great Salt Lake! I did put a dab of high temp
Anti-seize on
> the installed thread, as we've been doing for twenty odd years on the
> original studs when replacing them, and am very confident that this
reduces
> the chance of galvanic action to a minimum. After about 250 exhaust
manifold
> jobs I'm looking forward to NOT having to replace the studs every
time an
> exhaust gasket wears out. BTW we've been changing air cleaner
mounting bolts
> to stainless for over twenty years and have never had one seize (WITHOUT
> using Anti-seize}. This is what led me to believe that, in the real
world,
> stainless studs (hardened of course) are the way to go in solving
the rusted
> stud syndrome. I firmly believe that mild steel has a much higher
degree of
> galvanic action than stainless. Our exhaust kits now feature
stainless studs
> for those of you interested. I have a number of new products that
haven't
> made it onto our website yet such as these studs. Unfortunately I'm
better
> at envisioning and making new products than marketing them.
Now....let the
> nay Sayers begin!
> 
> Robert Grady  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tobyp_at_dml_k... [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_k...] 
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 5:29 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Custom Made Gas-Flap door
> 
> Ed - When you put aluminum and stainless steel (or mild steel for 
> that matter) together in close proximity, and add moisture, you get a 
> wonderful battery.  The aluminum starts to dissipate, leaving a white 
> powdery corrosion product called aluminum oxide.  All European cars 
> with aluminum skins attached to steel frames require a isolator ply 
> between the two materials to prevent the body skins from 
> disappearing.  In the aerospace industry, when we put aluminum and 
> stainless steel together (which happens a lot) we apply two coats of 
> a chromium-rich epoxy primer to each material, so we have four coats 
> of paint for protection.  We also fay seal the pieces together with a 
> high-performance sealant so that no moisture can get between the 
> layers of dissimilar materials, and install all fasteners with 
> sealant as well.  In short, without extensive protection, putting 
> them together is a bad idea.
> 
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> > Can anyone give me a definitive answer with respect to dissimilar 
> metal galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum?
> > 
> > Is it a problem or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:44:08 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

...you may be correct on the left/right front /rear ground thing.
To be honest I didn't pay it much attention because it doesn't really 
matter.
All grounds lead to the same place in the car anyway.
As long as you have the polarity right on the speakers you will be fine.
The car does not ground like others, to the frame, it grounds to it's own 
wire harness.
This is where the radio grounds too, in the case of the stereo it would be 
on the
right side of the back of the console.

Long and the short of it, if you hook up the radio to the harness the way I 
decribe
in my instructions then there will be no problem.
- VB


>From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound 
>systemupgrading)
>Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 14:58:53 -0000
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
>wrote:
> > The harness has 9 wires, I will break them down for you.
> > 1. Constant 12 volt
> > 2. Power on 12 volt
> > 3. Ground
> > 4. Front Ground
> > 5. Left Front
> > 6. Right Front
> > 7. Rear Ground
> > 8. Left Rear
> > 9. Right Rear
>
>You must have a Different DeLorean from mine
>and the others I've worked on the stereo on...
>
>They all had common grounds for left and right,
>not for fronts and rears...
>
> > This is how my unit is connected and works fine.
> > If for some reason your head unit needs separate
> > grounds for each speaker you would need
> > to run your own ground connections, however
> > this has never been a problem yet.
>
>I'd check the manual for your Head Unit; in the manuals
>for my Kenwoods and those for a couple of Pioneers and
>an Alpine I installed in different cars it's specifically
>stated that connecting the ground wires together will
>damage the unit and will void warranty...
>
> > PS- What is "flamed"?
>
>Being "flamed" is when people call you names on-line,
>a "flame war" is a heated "discussion" in that way.
>Flames tend to get quite personal and objective...
>
>For a really extended explanation go here:
><http://members.aol.com/intwg/flamewars.htm>
>
>Have a nice weekend,
>
>Jan van de Wouw
>Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
>Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
>
>#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>--------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1! 
(Limited-time offer) 
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:54:39 -0500
From: "swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Delorean to rent in Toronto?

I received this message off-list. Contact me for more detailed contact info
if you are interested. An opportunity for someone up there to cover some
costs....

Dave


Original Message:
-----------------
From: White, Glenn
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:20:22 -0500
Subject: Delorean in Toronto

Hi,

We are doing a corporate presentation in March 2005... the president of our
company would like to drive into the presentation in a Delorean... do you
know of anyone who may be willing to rent the Delorean to us in Toronto for
a few days or hours? It would be incredibly helpful if you could pass on any
info to me... even if it is an association in the area or a car rental
place.

Thanks so much for your help in this area.

Glenn White

**************
Glenn J. White
Marketing Services Manager - School
Pearson Education Canada
26 Prince Andrew Place
Don Mills, ON  M3C 2T8

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 12:09:44 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually


I've posted this before.. here is a clear diagram and chart of the pin-outs for both the Craig and ASI radio harnesses.

http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html

The commons are left/right, not front/rear, and in my case, with a new Alpine head unit, I had to tap into the individual speaker leads behind the radio (in the harness itself) in order to hook up all four grounds directly.  I did use one of the wiring harness adapters, and it was useful for most connections, but if you're installing most modern radios, it WON'T be a plug and play affair due to the separate grounds.

-Hank



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 19:44:21 -0000
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

Hi Bob,
Could you please give us an idea of your electronic/electrical 
engineering experience?
The reason I ask is that at the moment I would be concerned about 
your products damaging the electrical systems of DeLoreans. I'm sure 
you can appreciate my concerns with anyone buying your rear 
speaker/flux capacitor item, when you do not seem to know how to wire 
a radio correctly, or how it even operates. Please take this as a 
concern of mine for the DeLorean cars we love and enjoy, and not an 
attack against you personally. 
Best wishes,
John Dore, Ireland.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> ...you may be correct on the left/right front /rear ground thing.
> To be honest I didn't pay it much attention because it doesn't 
really 
> matter.
> All grounds lead to the same place in the car anyway.
> As long as you have the polarity right on the speakers you will be 
fine.
> The car does not ground like others, to the frame, it grounds to 
it's own 
> wire harness.
> This is where the radio grounds too, in the case of the stereo it 
would be 
> on the
> right side of the back of the console.
> 
> Long and the short of it, if you hook up the radio to the harness 
the way I 
> decribe
> in my instructions then there will be no problem.
> - VB
> 
> 
> >From: "Jan van de Wouw" <delorean_at_dml_h...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: 
sound 
> >systemupgrading)
> >Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 14:58:53 -0000
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
> >wrote:
> > > The harness has 9 wires, I will break them down for you.
> > > 1. Constant 12 volt
> > > 2. Power on 12 volt
> > > 3. Ground
> > > 4. Front Ground
> > > 5. Left Front
> > > 6. Right Front
> > > 7. Rear Ground
> > > 8. Left Rear
> > > 9. Right Rear
> >
> >You must have a Different DeLorean from mine
> >and the others I've worked on the stereo on...
> >
> >They all had common grounds for left and right,
> >not for fronts and rears...
> >
> > > This is how my unit is connected and works fine.
> > > If for some reason your head unit needs separate
> > > grounds for each speaker you would need
> > > to run your own ground connections, however
> > > this has never been a problem yet.
> >
> >I'd check the manual for your Head Unit; in the manuals
> >for my Kenwoods and those for a couple of Pioneers and
> >an Alpine I installed in different cars it's specifically
> >stated that connecting the ground wires together will
> >damage the unit and will void warranty...
> >
> > > PS- What is "flamed"?
> >
> >Being "flamed" is when people call you names on-line,
> >a "flame war" is a heated "discussion" in that way.
> >Flames tend to get quite personal and objective...
> >
> >For a really extended explanation go here:
> ><http://members.aol.com/intwg/flamewars.htm>
> >
> >Have a nice weekend,
> >
> >Jan van de Wouw
> >Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> >Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> >
> >#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> >--------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1! 
> (Limited-time offer) 
> http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-
us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:46:01 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: RE: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

   I think you're all missing a major point here. Why would you use the
stock wiring harness at all for your modern radio? The DeLorean has
what, 22 guage speaker wire? Do you know how much loss that's going to
give you in the mid and bass ranges?

Forget the stock harness and connectors. You'll have the center console
out anyway. Run Monster Cable from your new head unit to your new
speakers. Run a new power wire (with a fuse) right to the battery to
bypass your cutoff switch (if you have one). Run a new ground lead to
the main junction point in the dash, and tap the switched power wire.
Then, if a future owner wants to put the stock stereo back in there'll
be nothing cut or damaged on the harness, and your stereo will sound a
ton better.

Ken
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery	Sacramento, CA  VIN #10911  'OUTTIME'
http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com  mailto:owners_at_dml_dmcnews.com
======================================================= 

<<previous replies snipped to cut bandwidth>>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 18:52:44 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: JZD House Bedminster Estate on "The Apprentice" last night

Yeah it's called bankrupcy/attorney fees.

Johnny
5518

> I saw that house,last night.  I hope to see it when I go to NJ, I 
> cant beleive how big the property is.  Anyone know why he sold the 
> place? it looks like a great retirement place to be...I guess he 
had 
> a offer he couldn't refuse. lol.
> 
> CG




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:50:24 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?

is there any documentation such as diagrams or derailed spec sheets for the
502 setup?? Things like the dimensions of the intercoolers, engineering
drawings for brackets/hoses/manifolds, and other legend docs.

Darkstar
10246

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: March 25, 2004 5:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?


Yes..

I have provided a good bit of information to the list
on the Legend project.  You may want to search the
archives.

If you have specific questions, I can try an answer
them..  If I dont know the answer, I will make
something up that sounds good.  :)

Or... you can come to Pigeon Forge, and ask Fred
Dellis yourself!


There were 2 primary configurations that Legend was
working on.  The initial project was what you see on
502.  It was a twin turbo setup with intercoolers..
Later on, they did build 2 single turbo prototypes as
an atempt to cost reduce the project.

You say you have seen photos of "a few others"?  502,
and 1860 are the only 2 DeLoreans I know of currently
with Legend twin turbo engines installed.  You may
have seen photos of the aftermarket Island kit, which
many people have tried to pass off as Legend.  They
are VERY different.  I have seen no public photos of
the single turbo setup from Legend.

Marc

--- spaceace3113 <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Does anyone on the list know the differences in the
> various turbo
> prototypes? I recall seeing pictures of both 502 and
> a few others
> and all of them looked different Lastly, is there
> any documentation
> on the specs of these cars of Legend at all?
>
> Thanx in advance
> Harry 2696
>
>

__________________________________
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Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 11:46:27 -0500
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Warning For Parts On E-Bay



Sorry Jeff but this isn't true. Some of those parts are items I considered
garbage and asked Claude to throw out and others were apparently unearthed
after the fact from the mountains of sh-t we were forced to sift through in
order to retrieve the parts I bought. To say Claude is underhanded and IMHO
a liar is an understatement. I don't wish to explain the entire ordeal at
this time as I want to preserve my legal rights for possible litigation but
as the saying goes "You can't get blood from a stone". Let's just say that
the entire ordeal was the biggest fiasco I have ever been involved in my
twenty six years in the automobile business. No one should buy these parts
in my opinion and I will probably contact e-bay about this matter.

I want to take this opportunity to thank (In alpha order) Mark Levy,
"Senator" Michael Pack, and David Teitelbaum for their tremendous help in
the removal and transportation of this "inventory". They literally risked
life and limb to do so and I will be forever grateful for their help and
generosity. David even loaned me his trailer for this monumental task. I
never would have gotten them or I involved if I knew what lay in store for
us but that is hindsight from which I speak.

 Ed Uding has no idea of the expense and legal (Title) problems he avoided
by NOT getting this batch of parts. Realistically there are no cars in this
inventory, just parts. If Claude wants to pursue me legally for stating my
opinion then I say "Go for it". My attorney awaits him.

Once again thanks guys for all your help with the "Big Move".

Robert Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Chabotte [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 10:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Warning For Parts On E-Bay

What's to say that he didn't buy these parts elsewhere after the fact,
and is just turning them around on ebay? If I someone my "entire stock"
of something, there isn't anything preventing me from going out and
buying more of it to sell again.

Just throwing out a scenario here.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 10:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Warning For Parts On E-Bay


Some Delorean parts have recently appeared on E-bay. They are being sold
By Claude Landi aka Bricklin 1024 from Hartford, Conn. Rob Grady
recently bought ALL of these parts.....




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