From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1939
Date: Saturday, March 27, 2004 12:10 PM

There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

2. Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Still "Claude-ing" around?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. DeLorean Sighting in Timonium, MD...user on list?
From: "David R. Heise, Jr." <macg467_at_dml_verizon.net>

5. Re: D suddenly not starting / damp outside
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:33:54 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually

On Mar 26, 2004, at 3:33 PM, Scott Mueller wrote:

> How does a Floating ground adaptor work?

I'm only guessing, but very likely it is simply a pair of isolation 
transformers that permit the use of a common return on the speaker side 
while maintaining DC isolation on the amp side.

Part of the confusion here is that there are really two separate 
issues; (1) sound quality, and (2) electrical "correctness":

1. Sound Quality - - As David T. correctly points out, speakers are AC 
devices -- it is the change of relative voltage between the two wires 
that makes the speaker cones move; "ground" is a red herring (which why 
"return" is a more correct term). Speakers don't really have + and - 
terminals--they are only marked that way so that they get connected 
consistently so they stay "in phase" (i.e., you don't want one 
"pushing" while the other is "pulling", else they tend to cancel each 
other out).
In theory, it doesn't matter whether or not two speakers share a common 
return, as long as that return has sufficient capacity to carry all the 
current spikes that are produced by both of the speakers. In a 
high-power audio setup, these spikes can be very significant, and with 
a common return, one wire has to support both speakers. If it can't, 
the speakers won't be independent from each other, and you will get 
various kinds of distortion.  Rather than using a single huge return 
wire, it makes more sense to just use separate returns and be done with 
it, which is what most high-end amps are designed to do.

2. Electrical "Correctness" -- Given the above, designers of said 
high-end amps feel free to design their circuitry under the assumption 
that there will be D.C. isolation among all the speaker "return" 
connections. If you connect them together, you create D.C. 'leakage' 
paths that may or may not seriously degrade the performance of the amp, 
or even possibly damage it. Depends on your amp.

A "floating ground adpator" can easily address the second issue, only 
rewiring can address the first.

When I did the "Invisible Audio Upgrade" ( 
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/invisibleaudio.htm ), I first tried 
it without the adaptor. It mostly worked, but there was significant 
distortion at high volumes.  The adaptor cleared it up completely to my 
ear. But, as Dave says, "purists" will insist that separate returns are 
essential to that je ne c'est qua of the listening experience. [Of 
course, they will also insist that Monster Cable would sound better 
than an electrically-equivalent piece of Romex  (oops, just started a 
flame-war  :-) ]

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 14:04:21 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually

It is simply an isolation transformer.

Dont bother with it.. Just run new wires to the speakers.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> How does a Floating ground adaptor work?
> 





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 06:25:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Still "Claude-ing" around?

bricklin1024 Ebay (added so if anyone is doing a
Google search for any of these auctions, they see this
message)
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=2469340536

This "black body" was there.. he did not buy this
recently from his connections to pass on to others (as
he claims.

We simply could not get to this item because it was
buried.  Rob specificaly told Claude he wanted parts
from it and Claude agreed to remove them for Rob and
contact him when it was done.  I guess that is not
going to happen.

Some of the other DMC parts he has listed were either
hidden, or we missed them.  I doubt he went out and
bought these parts to re-sell them...  

The radiator he has described is NOT the radiator we
left there as trash.  We left one that was smashed up.


All of the auctions that he has up now, the only items
that I see that we left there are the broken fascias.

His little disclaimer is a fabrication, and IMHO
Slander.

--- cruznmd <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
> Claude has a bunch of auctions up on Ebay. I find it
> humorous that he 
> now has to include a disclaimer about how people are
> out to ruin him, 
> and that the casual Ebayer shouldn't be swayed, and
> that he's a safe 
> buy.
>

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 09:53:18 -0500
From: "David R. Heise, Jr." <macg467_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: DeLorean Sighting in Timonium, MD...user on list?

I was headed west Padonia Rd yesterday at about 6pm and saw a D headed north
on York Rd.

If the owner is on the list, could they contact me privately at
macg467[at]verizon.net?

Thanks,
-David Heise
 No D yet...




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 14:59:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: D suddenly not starting / damp outside

Smelling gas is not good...

How long has it been since your last *COMPLETE* ignition tune up?
Moisture is death to high tension electricity. Condensation inside a
distributor cap easily disrupt it, especially if the contacts are worn.

Zap your distributor with a hair dryer or heat gun. Hit the spark plug
wells too. If the engine then starts, you know it's been too long
since your last tune up.

I was promised a "complete" tune up by my car's PO. Plugs were indeed
new, but cap, rotor, and wires were not. Car had terrible "English
morning" syndrome. Was worse in dew or high humidity than actual rain. 

Inaccessibility of our distributor probably causes ignition components
to be left in place longer than they should. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I drove the D two days ago with no problems.  I tried to start it up 
> this evening and nothing.  It cranks over, I hear the fuel pump 
> buzz.  The pump relay is clicking and I smell gas in the back of the 
> car.  No leaks.  I checked the connections to from the coil to the 
> distributor and all looks good.  The only thing different about today 
> and two days ago is that it is very damp and warm outside.  Any ideas?
> 
> Erik




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