From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1940
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2004 11:01 AM

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?
From: Marc Levy <>

2. RE: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually
From: Marc Levy <>

3. RE: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?
From: "Darkstar" <>

4. Speaker Connections - conclusion?
From: "Robert Moseley" <>

5. Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

6. Re: History of Gull Wing Cars

7. VIN SCEDT26T5BD003760 just posted on eBay
From: "K" <>

8. surface rust?
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <>

9. Re: D suddenly not starting / damp outside
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 07:43:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: Re: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?

There are some photos of 502 on the web..  Check
"Rare DeLoreans"

--- Mike M <> wrote:
> Where would the intercooler(s) be mounted on the
> DeLorean??
> Mike #4671

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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 07:46:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: RE: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually


I think the problem here is that you view the negative
speaker output on the stereo as "Ground".  It is NOT
ground.  It is the negative speaker output!

On some older and cheaper stereos, the negative
speaker lead IS ground.  Most modern high-power units
use a bridged amplifier to acheive higher power with
smaller components.  The result is that the negative
speaker lead is NOT ground.

I hope this explains it.  I am sure there is a lot of
information on the internet.


--- Video Bob <> wrote:
> First, let's identify the "Ground".
> The only ground placement I know of is a small
> cluster of loops that are 
> bolted to the right rear of the console. These in
> turn run the length of the 
> wire harness and ultimately end up on the negative
> terminal of the battery.
> There are more grounds placed within the engine, the
> frame and a braided 
> copper wire that links to each piece of body work.
> Is this correct?

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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 09:25:19 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <>
Subject: RE: A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?

Not re-making a legend setup but the data would let me know what works and
what doesn't. I would rather not re-create the wheel.  The internal engine
specs is part of what I am looking for.  things such as cam timing and
specs, piston changes would be most helpful.  I have a spare engine that I
want to twin turbo and intercool  and seeing what legend did would avoid the
trial and error part.  I have also been playing with the idea of computer
controlled NOS (25HP shot till the turbos spool up) and water injection.  I
have been looking for performance connecting rods and have been unable to
locate any.  I found some forged pistons for the engine.  I also have a
friend with a CNC mill and lathe so re-creating parts from engineering
drawings is easier.

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy []
Sent: March 26, 2004 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] A little history on the Turbo Deloreans?

As far as I know, none of these documents are public.

I did have the opportunity to look through one of
Fred's books with many photographs, and test results.
Ken and I have been trying to get with Fred to see
what else he has.  Hopes are he will display some of
this in Pigeon Forge.

It is a good bet that Fred still has most if not all
of the documentation from Legend.

My suspicion is you are asking this question for the
possibility of making your own "legend"??  Understand,
this was NOT a bolt-on kit.  Just about EVERY part
inside the engine was changed, many of them were
custom made.  Even the head bolts were special.

Unfortunately, It is not cost effective to try and
re-create what was done with the Legend engine.

If you want one, well...  everything has a price.

--- Darkstar <> wrote:
> is there any documentation such as diagrams or
> derailed spec sheets for the
> 502 setup?? Things like the dimensions of the
> intercoolers, engineering
> drawings for brackets/hoses/manifolds, and other
> legend docs.
> Darkstar
> 10246

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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 21:35:40 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <>
Subject: Speaker Connections - conclusion?

OK, I have been schooled today on hooking up speakers by my friends at 

This is what I have learned,
"Back in the day", all the speakers were on a common ground.
Meaning that they all shared the same ground.
(this is what I was used to I guess)

Then, a new system of splitting the ground from left to right
was brought in for a while and that is what is used by our radios.
Or at least the Craig, I am not sure about the later ASI.

Then comes the newer radios that each use a separete ground.
Each speaker has it's own postive, and it own negative.


I am not too big a guy to admit when I am wrong, but I am only
about half wrong. I was right in the sense that on an older radio such
as the Craig, that is how the radio is connected.
However you WOULD need to connect a separete ground wire, not
associated with the car's electrical ground wire as I was suggesting.
So I admit it, on this subject I fu__ed up.

But why does my stereo seem to work even though I hooked it up
as a common ground?
My friend suggests that it is because I have a built in ground lift,
or noise remover, and protection curcuit that allows it to work
anyway, all though I admit there is not much bass at all.
I figured that it was just the way two 3 1/2" speakers sounded?
Fixing the ground connection should make a world of difference and I 
will be doing that tonight.

Now, about the wire harness adapter.....
The harness can still be utilized for the most part.
The change that needs to be made would be:
Each speaker has a ground wire coming from it already, I believe
the simply come together at one point and then go into the harness.
I will simply clip them and add a blade connection to each, and plug
the harness in that way so that everything can still be disconnected easy.

I will try to document the process and include it in my instructions
with the adapter from now on.

Again, many stereo's are different.
It all comes down to READING THE MANUAL, which a lot of know-it-all's
like me forget to do sometimes!

- Videobob


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 22:48:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: Grounding Each Speaker Individually (was: sound systemupgrading)

Bob, maybe you could do us DeLorean owners here a favor, and kill two birds with one 
stone. Since you play really bad/cheezy fims on your show, and most DeLorean owners & 
enthusiasts have never seen this "gem", it would be REALLY great is you could broadcast it 
for us!

vin 6585 "X"

p.s. I've seen it, and the most exciting part of this entire movie is the description!


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 19:31:41 EST
Subject: Re: History of Gull Wing Cars

In a message dated 3/26/04 9:16:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

> Other odd mentions: ... BMW Isetta

That is an odd choice.  The teeny Isetta was later the infamous Urkel-mobile 
from the late and unlamented tv show Family Matters.  Opened in front, at a 
slightly upward, but basically sideways angle.  The father of a friend of mine 
had one in the '50's. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 03:10:26 -0000
From: "K" <>
Subject: VIN SCEDT26T5BD003760 just posted on eBay

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1981, 5-speed, gray

Also, while doing some research today, I read that Mitsubishi of Japan made 70 factory 
gullwing-door Eclipses in 1991, and I saw some pictures of them, they're interesting to 
see.  They're not conversions, they were designed by Mitsubishi and kinda look good on 
the Eclipse.  Also, I've noticed an influx of concept cars from mainstream car 
manufacturers starting to have gullwing doors, such as the Infiniti Triant, a female 
designed Volvo concept, Renault Talisman concept, BMW z9 concept, and even Hyundai 
has 1 or 2 concept cars lately with gullwing doors.


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:48:58 -0000
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <>
Subject: surface rust?

i have my delorean parked in a covered parking garage but it is 
still exposed to the hawaiian salt air, it was sitting for about a 
month due to a brake master, when i got it up and running again, i 
noticed what seems to be a bunch of rust spots all over the hood , 
roof, and rear fenders, i tried to used to stainless pad out of the 
delorean car care kit and it does'nt seem to be helping that much. I 
would appreciate anyhelp i could get from anyof you!:)....thank you 



Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 05:44:18 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Re: D suddenly not starting / damp outside

That you everyone for the advise.  I started the delorean up just 
fine this morning without having to do anything.  The last tune up 
was done about 4 years ago.  Which was about 12000 miles ago.  Not 
sure what the actual problem was, but I'll keep looking


--- In, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> Smelling gas is not good...
> How long has it been since your last *COMPLETE* ignition tune up?
> Moisture is death to high tension electricity. Condensation inside a
> distributor cap easily disrupt it, especially if the contacts are 
> Zap your distributor with a hair dryer or heat gun. Hit the spark 
> wells too. If the engine then starts, you know it's been too long
> since your last tune up.
> I was promised a "complete" tune up by my car's PO. Plugs were 
> new, but cap, rotor, and wires were not. Car had terrible "English
> morning" syndrome. Was worse in dew or high humidity than actual 
> Inaccessibility of our distributor probably causes ignition 
> to be left in place longer than they should. 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> >--- In, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> 
> > I drove the D two days ago with no problems.  I tried to start it 
> > this evening and nothing.  It cranks over, I hear the fuel pump 
> > buzz.  The pump relay is clicking and I smell gas in the back of 
> > car.  No leaks.  I checked the connections to from the coil to 
> > distributor and all looks good.  The only thing different about 
> > and two days ago is that it is very damp and warm outside.  Any 
> > 
> > Erik


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