From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1951
Date: Monday, April 05, 2004 9:16 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Injection Lines
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: engine tune-up
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: engine tune-up
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Re: Front Brake Rotors
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

5. Re: Carbon deposits in combustion chamber
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

6. Re: Broke frequency valve line fitting
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

7. Legislation to protect your auto repair rights
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

8. Never again.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Re: Injection Lines
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Injection Lines
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. PF Question
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: engine tune-up (misfiring plugs)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: engine tune-up
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Automatic Transmission Problems
From: "adamjohn_98" <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Removing Exhaust Manifold Nuts
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Automatic Transmission Problems
From: Adam Holder <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. A/C problems
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: PF Question
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

19. Compatible Key blank
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Legislation to protect your auto repair rights
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

21. Concours Judging For Options & Accessories
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Car Show Vending
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Never again.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Re: Front Brake Rotors
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

25. Upcoming DeLorean TV Sighting
From: Hank Breer <hbreer_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 14:59:04 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Injection Lines

In a message dated 4/4/04 1:32:29 PM Central Daylight Time, rowejj_at_dml_tds.net 
writes:


>  Hello List,
>                   This may be a dumb question but why can't we just use 
> regular
> fuel injection hose instead of that thin hard line inside of the big bulky 
> line?
> Why not just use 1/4in or whatever it is with regular clamps? Is it like that
> just for extra protection from the engine heat and elements or what? If I'm 
> not
> mistaken our systems are running about 75psi and some of the injection hose
> I've seen are rated up to 125psi. I am really bosch/fuel injection in 
> general 
> illiterate so if this is in fact a dumb question please excuse my ignorance. 
> 

>>>
Good question in fact.  the shop manual states that due to the unusually high 
fuel pressures possible under the K-Jet FI, one should only use the 
OEM-specified fuel lines.  using 1/4" fuel line with hose clamps is a recipe for 
disaster!!!!  Just another reason why you should buy the right part the first time 
from the many vendors we have.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 14:56:14 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: engine tune-up

In a message dated 4/4/04 1:16:48 PM Central Daylight Time, 
carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com writes:


> my idea is : i think the engine run too rich
> 
> if someone have a hints about it please help me because a delorean 
> is better when the engine runs fine
> 
> thanks
> yan

If the engine runs that high,  you may have a vacuum leak somewhere.  I would 
start by checking all the vacuum lines from the thermal control valve to your 
advance canister and control pressure regulator.  use the vacuum wiring 
diagram on the engine cover to make sure you find all of them.  replace any that 
are remotely suspect (dry, cracked, swollen).  vacuum lines are cheap but 
necessary.

If you have a dwell meter you can get pretty close with the CO.  the car will 
run just fine if you are few degrees off though - if it starts under all 
conditions and idles ok after it settles down, you are probably close enough on 
the CO but you may not pass emissions if that is a concern.  you could also have 
problems from running too rich or lean, but either way, i don't think your CO 
is WAY off.

You also didn't indicate if the car runs at 2000RPM under all starting 
conditions or under only cold or hot.  a bad vacuum leak would be my first guess 
though.  check the tube that goes from the idle motor to the underside of the air 
meter housing - is the tube aligned properly and do you still have the O-ring 
seal? 

if you were running too rich or too lean, the idle speed upon startup would 
not be affected, at least i don't see how.

let us know what you find.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 15:32:11 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: engine tune-up

REALLY check those plug wire connections. When I did mine I not only had a
wire (#5, I think) that didn't fit onto the plug right, I had one that
slipped off the rotor.
The funny thing is, it would run ok while idling and sound like it was using
all six.
So, really, really check all those plug wire connections.

-----Original Message-----
From: delorean6584 [mailto:carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 9:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] engine tune-up


just take out the delorean for this summer so now its my daily
driver, but the engine need a little tune-up because since i
replaced some parts and clean up the engine bay now the engine
misfire during driving, just like it was run out of fuel for a
second it does it warm or cold and the acceleration is sluggish all
time...so what are the parts i replaced this winter : distributor
rotor/cap, spark plugs, wires, fuel accumulator, all hose clamps,
belts, fuel filter, oil filter and oil

heres the test i have made : i checked the timing (13 degree without
vacuum), i also adjusted the screw for throttle plates (now the idle
is sitting at 750rpm and the microswitch is pressed when idling), i
also play with the co level screw(allen bolt) i placed it to have
the best engine sound/noise smells with 3-4 road tests, i also
checked all vacuum hoses and spray wd40 where all hoses plugs in
particular the big one under the fuel/air control unit,

symptoms i see : when i start the car : the engine rpm is about
2000rpm for 10sec and after it drop to 750 (a little higher when
cold)

my idea is : i think the engine run too rich

if someone have a hints about it please help me because a delorean
is better when the engine runs fine

thanks
yan




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 19:19:33 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Front Brake Rotors

There was one post 7 years ago that stated the 77 Capri pads and 
rotors are supposed to be the same, and another that confirmed that a 
European version of the Capri is a match. But still, you'd have to 
make the comparison side by side.

partsamerica.com seems to list the prices pretty cheaply, but you'll 
need to check the prices _at_dml_ the local autoparts stores themselves. As 
I found out 2 weeks ago when I was in a bind for a set of front brake 
pads, DeLorean vendors were both cheaper, and quicker to ship out the 
pads. No one from Pep Boys, Auto Zone, nor CSK had the X-over 
calipers in stock.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Recently, someone posted information about Capri Rotors being
> interchangeable with The DMC front rotors.
>  
> I have not been able to locate that post.
>  
> Would someone please repost that information.
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Scott





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 21:05:56 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Carbon deposits in combustion chamber

Subaru does an excellent top end cleaner which is designed for just 
this purpose and is cat convertor safe. I used to work in a large 
multi car dealership where all the different brands of cars would 
actually recommend this cleaner (via subaru) for carbon build up in 
the manifolds/valve backs/throttle body etc. I recall an car once 
that had a constant idle stutter that couldnt be fixed, the only 
thing left was to remove the heads and de-carbon and inspect them. 
Firstly the cleaner was applied through the injector holes over a 
few hours which fixed the problem. Be aware the cleaner is ment to 
be burnt by the engine and as it disolves the carbon and should not 
really be left untill it has dried up but rather burnt by the 
engine. The car will be very hard to start and once it does will 
cause huge clouds of smaoke. The cleaner here in Australia is 
called 'Subaru upper engine cleaner' and comes in a small aerosol 
can not sure if it is available or called the same in the states. 

Good luck 
Nick #10927




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 21:09:56 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Broke frequency valve line fitting

Woohoo, a solution to my own post!  
Welp, today I braved an ice storm and went to a 400 acre "u-pull-it" 
junkyard hoping to find a frequency valve assembly in some busted up 
volvo.  After spending about 45 minutes just getting soak and wet, I 
finally came across a 240 (I think?? The emblem was missing.) which 
had the frequency valve assembly intact!  Now keep in mind, I only 
actually needed the fuel hose that connects to the top of it.  I 
carefully removed the whole thing anyway, and when I took it to the 
counter, he looked at it and said, "Bah, just take it!"  What a way 
to save $40 for a new line!  I also grabbed a bunch banjo bolts 
since they're impossible to find in stock anywhere local.  

Perhaps this will prove useful to someone looking for a quick cross 
reference.  By looking at some other older cars that were there, 
i.e., volvo, bmw, alfa romeo, it appears the cold start valve is 
also the same as on the DeLorean.  


Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> While removing the frequency valve, I broke off the barb on the 
> connector that threads into the top of it.  Is it possible to 
repair 
> this without buying a new fuel line?  Is there a cross reference 
for 
> this particular part I can get somewhere local?
> 
> thanks,
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 16:29:45 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Legislation to protect your auto repair rights

While surfing today, I came across this interesting information about a
possible scenario where we may not be able to repair our own cars in the
future.
 
Check out this link for further information.
 
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/features/store_specials/carenews_index.html
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 21:55:27 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Never again.

Well, the ASI stereo that I fought so hard for from Ebay is DOA. It 
doesn't even power up. Either the guy lied and it never worked, or it 
was bounced to death on the trip from California to Maryland.

I've only completed 8 transactions on Ebay and I've already been 
bitten. I will never use the service again.

I know some people repair ECU's and the like so if any of you think 
you can fix this thing, speak up. I'll gladly pay. If it were a 
Craig, I wouldn't bother but these are kind of hard to come by so I'd 
like it to work.

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 00:34:15 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Injection Lines

Even if the new hose is rated for the pressure, you MUST use rigid 
walled hose. We tried some injector lines made from 10 bar rated hose 
and swaged ends. The hose was fine as far as the pressure was concerned, 
but at idle, where the injectors are just "cracking", the pressure of 
the injectors opening set up an oscillation in the hose and caused the 
injectors to spurt like morse code. We make our new hoses from 200 bar 
rated thermoplastic lines in a shiny black outer and new swaged ends. 
They look very pretty and perform beautifully.

Best Wishes

Martin

Jason Rowe wrote:

>     Hello List,
>                  This may be a dumb question but why can't we just use regular
>fuel injection hose instead of that thin hard line inside of the big bulky line?
>Why not just use 1/4in or whatever it is with regular clamps? Is it like that
>just for extra protection from the engine heat and elements or what? If I'm not
>mistaken our systems are running about 75psi and some of the injection hose
>I've seen are rated up to 125psi. I am really bosch/fuel injection in general 
>illiterate so if this is in fact a dumb question please excuse my ignorance. 
>
>            Also, what ever happened to the DeLorean on ebay a few weeks 
>back that had less miles on the car than the odometer. I think they claimed
>it was a 450 mile car or something. Just curious if anyone knew what 
>happened with it. Feel free to email me off list if you like. Thanks in advance
>for any input...................Jason #5903
>  
>





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 01:50:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Injection Lines

Stock DeLo injection hose is known as "fluoroelastometric". Simply
plastic hose within a protective rubber sheath. Has several problems:
- Very little flexibility
- Nearly impossible to re-barb
- I wonder how it will age, given problems with other hard DeLo lines
(clutch hydraulic, heater core shutoff and HVAC vacuum)

Teflon/stainless braided hoses like John Hervey sells seem like an
excellent replacement. Still rather inflexible, but at least they're new.

Even though my Renault PRV uses hard steel fuel lines (just like brake
lines. Are soldered to their banjo fittings), I do use Goodyear
injection hose as you mention for lines to/from the pump, and to/from
the fuel distributor. Is indeed rated 125 PSI -- what that means is
you don't have to worry about fuel pressure flaking off miniscule
pieces of rubber to clog up the system (it's a very bad idea to use
regular fuel line hose anywhere after the pump for that reason). These
100% rubber lines are held to their barbs with smooth band clamps.
Work excellently.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>      Hello List,
>                   This may be a dumb question but why can't we just
use regular
> fuel injection hose instead of that thin hard line inside of the big
bulky line?
> Why not just use 1/4in or whatever it is with regular clamps? Is it
like that
> just for extra protection from the engine heat and elements or what?
If I'm not
> mistaken our systems are running about 75psi and some of the
injection hose
> I've seen are rated up to 125psi. I am really bosch/fuel injection
in general 
> illiterate so if this is in fact a dumb question please excuse my
ignorance. 
> 





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 18:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: PF Question

Maybe this question should have been sent to Ken K.
directly, but it may be of interest to others. Just
got back from Pigeon Forge last weekend and the crowds
got me to wondering if there will be any place to park
car hauling trailers. Between spring break and me and
the rest of the Nascar Nuts the place was maxxed out!!

Thanks
Steve T. 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 02:14:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: engine tune-up (misfiring plugs)

The easiest way to ensure all 6 plugs are firing is to clip a timing
light on each wire, as close to the plug as possible (can get false
positives by the distributor cap from wires damaged further down). You
don't have to shine it on anything in particular -- just ensure it's
flashing.

The PRV is truly an odd engine because you can lose a plug without the
usual tell tale stumble. I lost my entire driver bank on the highway
from SEDOC (barbeque'd by a vacuum leak through the passenger intake
rail) but the biggest symtom was a precipitous drop in fuel economy,
not engine behavior. Power & performance in 5th gear didn't even go
down noticeably until I hit some hills.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> REALLY check those plug wire connections. When I did mine I not only
had a
> wire (#5, I think) that didn't fit onto the plug right, I had one that
> slipped off the rotor.
> The funny thing is, it would run ok while idling and sound like it
was using
> all six.
> So, really, really check all those plug wire connections.
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 23:48:27 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: engine tune-up

found my problem !!!!!!!!!

the number 2 wire fro plugs was bad (it is new) the fire was jumping 
through the engine ground, but for the idle when starting : when i 
start the car on any conditions it will idle at 2000-2500rpm for 
10sec and drop to 800rpm, but its always that 10secs just like it 
was programmed....is it normal?




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 02:36:20 -0000
From: "adamjohn_98" <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Automatic Transmission Problems

Hello, I finally got my newly purchased delorean running great. The 
car idles a little high, but not bad, (1500 RPM). Basically, to get 
the car to shift into 2/3 gear, I have to floor the gas pedal and it 
won't shift until 4700-5200 RPM. When it finally shifts, it shifts 
really well. Also, when I try to manually shift the car, it will not 
work at all (when slowing down, downshifting the gear manually does 
not lower the speed). The transmission fluid has been drained, the 
tranny cleaner was added, and the level was checked. I imagine it has 
something to do with the governor computer or the shift linkage. 
Please help me!




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 02:47:26 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Removing Exhaust Manifold Nuts

For anyone contemplating exhaust manifold gasket replacement:

As part of a dual exhaust conversion (nearly finished), I replaced the
carbon steel nuts on my exhaust manifold studs with stainless.
Original studs were left in place -- only the nuts (and little 1/8"
thick stainless washers) were changed.

Of course the original nuts were badly rusted and stuck to the studs.
Rather than attempt to turn them, quite possibly snapping the studs, I
used a nut splitter and cold chisel to pop them off. Worked
excellently. Chased the stud threads and slipped on replacement nuts
as easily as new.

I do not own an acetylene torch. MAPP gas in my plumber's torch might
have worked, but this was far easier.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 20:50:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adam Holder <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Automatic Transmission Problems

Hello, I just bought a Delorean and I am having
shifting problems. It will not shift into 2/3 gear
until around 4700-5200 RPM. Once it finally shifts, it
shifts well. Also, when I try to upshift or downshift
manually, it doesn't work. Occasionally when I cruise
at 70mph, the engine revs up sporatically and slows
the car down to approxiamately 35 mph. The gas pedal
seems to act weird as well. The transmission fluid has
been drained to the proper level and cleaning fluid
has been added. Please help me!
Thanks!
Adam Holder
adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 21:17:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A/C problems

Hi  everyone,  I still have an a/c problem,the a/c will not blow hard on the high fan setting.I have checked to see that the vents are open, the mode switch is getting vacuum, when you change the mode switch settings (a/c, heater ,defrost, vent) they all work.I have also checked to see that the fan is turning in the right direction.The recirculation flap is also opening, and you can hear the a/c fan spinning fast,but it just want blow hard on any of the setting (a/c,heater,defrost,vent).It seems to me like something is blocking the air flow right after it leaves the fan, because it effects all of the settings. Any help would be great! THANKS and see you in June, Casey VIN 3270



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 23:21:56 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: PF Question

In a message dated 4/4/2004 7:20:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
>Maybe this question should have been sent to Ken K.
>directly, but it may be of interest to others. Just
>got back from Pigeon Forge last weekend and the crowds
>got me to wondering if there will be any place to park
>car hauling trailers. Between spring break and me and
>the rest of the Nascar Nuts the place was maxxed out!!

Thanks
Steve T
I think I can answer that.

We have the Smokey Shadow parking and there is a space near the convention 
center that is rarely used also the Grand Hotel Convention Center has a back 
parking section that is  open and the convention center is only for convention 
parking so we will have all the room we need.

Ken
DeLorean Car Show Inc
DeLorean Car Show magazine
deloreancarshow.com




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 02:43:11 -0000
From: "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Compatible Key blank

For everyone's cross reference parts lists:

I just had a successful key copy made at Home Depot on an Axxess+ #38
blank.  This was an ignition / later door key.  Axxess+ seems to be
the popular brand at most key copy kiosks at hardware / misc stores.




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 03:49:36 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Legislation to protect your auto repair rights

This has nothing to do with the DeLorean as the DeLorean does 
not have an OBD II compliant engine management system.  No 
codes - nothing to prevent anyone from servicing the car.

--
Mike

> While surfing today, I came across this interesting information about a
> possible scenario where we may not be able to repair our own cars in the
> future.
>  
> Check out this link for further information.
>  
> http://www.advanceautoparts.com/features/store_specials/carenews_index.html



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 14:08:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories

There is a newsletter going back and forth discussing how options and
accessories should be treated, judged, scored, ignored, etc. I would
like to get the general comments of the Delorean community to see if
anyone even cares and if anyone does, what their opinion is. What we
are talking about here is floor mats, tires, recalls and service
bulletins, luggage rack, ski rack, seat covers, and such. IMHO there
should be some kind of positive for this stuff or no one will show it
on the cars because of the chance of losing points. On the other hand
I don't think a car should win just because the owner loaded it up
with everything he could find on E-bay to win a concours. The "extras"
should not make a car that shouldn't win a winner. Maybe it could be
used in a tie or a very close situation. This is our chance to make
our opinions count as a big judging event is comming up at Pigeon
Forge. You don't have to have a concours car to have an opinion,
everyone's opinion counts. As Delorean owmers we all have a stake in
how this turns out. The value of the Delorean is determined by the
value of a concours car. Everyone starts out with 100 points. It is
downhill from there so the closer you are to a winner the more
valuable your car is. How that car is judged affects that value. BTW
if you are thinking about entering the concours enter now before it
closes up. There will only be 6 cars max for the top event.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 08:42:48 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Car Show Vending

I am getting a lot of questions on vendors for the show like this one and 
since it seems to ask all the questions I thought its a good opportunity to 
respond to for all of you.

In a message dated 4/5/2004 4:52:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
bfcoulombe_at_dml_cfl.rr.com writes:
>Sounds Good. What will I need to display? Will there be a table or do I bring 
>one? Will there be a back drop or do I provide? Will there be electricity? 
>Will I be assigned an area? Can I hang a sign above my area. 
>Sorry for so many questions, it's just I'm use to do a convention where I pay 
>about $400.00 for an assigned area, an 8 foot table, a back drop with sign 
>limits and extra for electricity. I just want to start preparing and I don't 
>like surprises.
>Thanks Ken. I'll also go back to the site and read more.
>Looking forward to being there.
>Oh yes!!!  can you recommend a "good" hotel close to the event.

Thanks Bruce
1. Tables will be provided, due to oil and such the convention center will 
not provide a table cloth (similar to past events)
2. There is electricity along the walls so pick a place near an outlet.
3. There is not an assigned location its first come first serve except for 
the main 4 vendors that have larger displays.  They will pick out the areas 
prior.
4. Yes you can have a sign not sure how you will hang it as the area has a 
drop ceiling and it is not sturdy enough to hold weight.
5.  There is no charge for any of this.
6. Most people are staying at the Smokey Shadow as listed on the web page

The Friday and Saturday event including the parts sales on Saturday will be 
at the Grand Resort Convention Center. It may be more convenient to get a room 
there.

Hope this answers all your questions.

Ken



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 13:53:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Never again.

This is always the chance you take when you buy old electronic
equipment from ANY source. Even if you test it it could die on you as
soon as you get home. You have to figure you average out on a place
like E-bay. Some of the items I have bought/sold went for more money
than I expected and some went for less. Some were in nicer condition
than I expected and some worse. The good news is the radio can be
fixed. Look in Hemmings Motor News under "services".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Well, the ASI stereo that I fought so hard for from Ebay is DOA. It 
> doesn't even power up. Either the guy lied and it never worked, or it 
> was bounced to death on the trip from California to Maryland.
> 
> I've only completed 8 transactions on Ebay and I've already been 
> bitten. I will never use the service again.
> 
> I know some people repair ECU's and the like so if any of you think 
> you can fix this thing, speak up. I'll gladly pay. If it were a 
> Craig, I wouldn't bother but these are kind of hard to come by so I'd 
> like it to work.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 08:49:39 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Front Brake Rotors

The calipers and pads fit, there are even better calipers available with
larger
pads.
The rotors do not fit.

Elvis & 6548

> There was one post 7 years ago that stated the 77 Capri pads and 
> rotors are supposed to be the same, and another that confirmed that a 
> European version of the Capri is a match. But still, you'd have to 
> make the comparison side by side.
> 
> partsamerica.com seems to list the prices pretty cheaply, but you'll 
> need to check the prices _at_dml_ the local autoparts stores themselves. As 
> I found out 2 weeks ago when I was in a bind for a set of front brake 
> pads, DeLorean vendors were both cheaper, and quicker to ship out the 
> pads. No one from Pep Boys, Auto Zone, nor CSK had the X-over 
> calipers in stock



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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 21:53:29 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Upcoming DeLorean TV Sighting

For those of you who keep track of such -

The CBS Show: COLD CASE will have scenes of a DeLorean in the episode 
which will air in two weeks (Sunday, April 18th).

No, not mine. But it does belong to a friend.

Hank Breer
1141





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