From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1953
Date: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 7:15 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Automatic Transmission Problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. radio restoration (was: Never again)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Re: Compatible Key blank
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Lowering Springs
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)
From: "Mike" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>

7. RE: Re: Front Brake Rotors
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

8. Rotors and Calipers
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

9. Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: radio restoration status
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. RE: Re: Compatible Key blank
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

13. Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: re: battery ground lug (was sudden death)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: A/C problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Another Raffle Car update
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. vin scedt26t8bd001601
From: "grooveshack26" <grooveshack_at_dml_aol.com>

19. Re: BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

20. JOHN DELOREAN/BELFAST TELEGRAPH
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Pigeon Forge Stats Update (for fun)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

22. RE: Automatic Transmission Problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

25. RE: BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 15:06:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic Transmission Problems

>From the description of the symptoms it sounds like a failed shift
computer. Get your hands on the Workshop Manual and do all the
external adjustments. If doing all that doesn't help you will have to
either repair or replace the shift computer. Driving the car on a
faulty shift computer can cause expensive damage to the internal
mechanicals of the trans so I would not drive it much until this is
fixed. Remove the "cleaning fluid" from the trans as soon as you can.
This stuff will swell the seals and then they will dry out and leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Adam Holder <adamjohn_98_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello, I just bought a Delorean and I am having
> shifting problems. It will not shift into 2/3 gear
> until around 4700-5200 RPM. Once it finally shifts, it
> shifts well. Also, when I try to upshift or downshift
> manually, it doesn't work. Occasionally when I cruise
> at 70mph, the engine revs up sporatically and slows





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 07:48:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories

Though I am not a contender for any concours judging,
I firmly believe that "dealer options" are just that -
options!  As such, they are nice, but not to be
considered in concours judging.  They should neither
add nor detract from the scoring.  

I'm not even in favor of using them to break a tie. 
If there is a legitimate tie, so be it!!

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 09:07:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: radio restoration (was: Never again)

The speed channel actually had a program on car audio recently. There was a company that you could send your classic car radios off to and they would completely gut and rebuild them using modern components. They claimed the sound the radios produced was comparable or better than aftermarket head units. I think it's a great answer to the dilemma many DeLorean owners have regarding wanting to keep a stock appearance versus acceptable sound. I believe this is the website for the company they featured:

http://www.antiquecarradio.com/

I'm sure they could fix your radio Rich... maybe even make it better than it was new!

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC


--- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
This is always the chance you take when you buy old electronic
equipment from ANY source. Even if you test it it could die on you as
soon as you get home. You have to figure you average out on a place
like E-bay. Some of the items I have bought/sold went for more money
than I expected and some went for less. Some were in nicer condition
than I expected and some worse. The good news is the radio can be
fixed. Look in Hemmings Motor News under "services".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team wins! Free limited-time trial at http://www.AllSportsMarket.com/Index.asp?Refer=delomail



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 15:16:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Compatible Key blank

You should be careful in crossrefing the blanks. All blanks are not
created equal. Some are made from very soft pot metal and will wear
out quickly. Brass is good and nickel-silver is best. Just remember if
the key wears the locks won't and vice versa. Also a soft key is easy
to break off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> For everyone's cross reference parts lists:
> 
> I just had a successful key copy made at Home Depot on an Axxess+ #38
> blank.  This was an ignition / later door key.  Axxess+ seems to be
> the popular brand at most key copy kiosks at hardware / misc stores.




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 19:29:38 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lowering Springs

I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my DeLorean.
I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers the
entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
original design height.

Any insight about either of these sets would be great. I would love to
hear feedback from people who have installed these new springs to see
if they like them, would they have done differently, etc..

Thanks in advance!!
Ej
Vin 4475




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 23:25:13 -0000
From: "Mike" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)

Well, I must not have had enough coffee before I started working on 
my D this weekend.
 
I was doing the spring-time chassis lube;  (after being reminded by 
a couple of posts here)

So I happily lubed all the grease-nipples, the angle drive, and 
silicon sprayed the bushing etc.

Well, then I got out the needle injector for the grease gun, to lube 
the tie rod ends.  But I don't know what the heck I was thinking, 
instead of getting the needle into the tie rod end boot, I  slipped 
in into the "accordian bellows style" boot at the end of the 
steering rack, and gave it a little shot of grease.

Did I make huge boo-boo?  (i.e. messed up my rack) or is this a no-
biggie?  Any ideas?  (I haven't moved the steering position since I 
did this.)

And how embarassing to have to post this... but I'd rather be 
embarassed then ruin the rack.

Mike
#17106






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:26:58 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Front Brake Rotors

Travis,
Do you mean "Calipers"?
Scott



-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:57 AM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Front Brake Rotors


This is true. I just replaced mine with the 77 Mercury Capri rotors. $99 for
the pair at Auto Zone.

I had to cut a very, very small notch (1/8" deep and 1" long) in the brake
line mounting bracket on the driver's side, but that was it. 



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 18:11:54 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Rotors and Calipers

Thanks for the responses to my question.
 
I was able to get the rotors turned and they cleaned up real nice.
 
One of the calipers had seized.
 
I have ordered loaded rebuilt calipers, which were competitively priced,
from a DeLorean vendor and hopefully they will arrive this week.
 
See you in PF.
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 07:53:30 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)

In a message dated 4/5/04 10:49:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com writes:


> Did I make huge boo-boo?  (i.e. messed up my rack) or is this a no-
> biggie?  Any ideas?  (I haven't moved the steering position since I 
> did this.)

Don't worry about it.  the boots just protect the insides of the inner tie 
rods which could probably use the grease anyway!!!!!!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 01:11:56 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: radio restoration status

Louie as usual, you had an excellent suggestion. I contacted them and 
the gentleman seemed less than enthusiastic about it. One reason is 
because we can't seem to find a wiring diagram for it. Even so, the 
idea was a laudable one because I found several repair sites online. 
I shotgun-emailed them the symptoms and asked if they were too 
chicken to handle it or what. :) (You'd be suprised what fear the 
word "DeLorean" instills in some people)

Here's what I've done so far:

Like I always say:

It's 25 year old technology. How hard could it be?

I've already deduced the following:

There is no power on either the "always hot" 12 volts that powers the 
clock, or the "accessory hot" 12 volts that powers the radio. There 
is no internal fuse that I can find. (Doesn't mean there isn't one).

I've traced the "accessory hot" 12 volts into the radio, through the 
power filter and all the way to the on/off knob. Juice goes in, but 
doesn't come out. Because neither 12 volts is felt anywhere it seems 
to me that there is a central regulatory point that has failed 
somewhere.

Does anyone have, or know where I can acquire a wiring schematic of 
the ASI stero?

Hopefully one of those services I contacted will be willing and 
capable of fixing it.


Rich
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> The speed channel actually had a program on car audio recently. 
There was a company that you could send your classic car radios off 



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 03:10:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

Be careful in lowering the car. You will scrape when you drive in and
out of driveways. You reduce the travel on the suspension so you will
bottom out easier. You will also require a realignment. Depending on
the condition of your local roads it could be a very bad idea. Watch
out for raised manholes when they repave the roads! The venders sell
these kits because some owners want them but IMHO it is not a good
idea to lower the car. There is a lot of controversy over the
"origional" design ride height. There are those who think it was
supposed to be lower and there are others that go by the specs in the
Workshop Manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
> original design height.
> 
> Any insight about either of these sets would be great. I would love to
> hear feedback from people who have installed these new springs to see
> if they like them, would they have done differently, etc..
> 
> Thanks in advance!!
> Ej
> Vin 4475




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 19:16:44 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Compatible Key blank

David is totally right.
I use the ilco for testing, I do not recommend daily use of them. I've
broken one off in my own ignition switch once. What do they say about
doctors being the worst patients?
Anyway, the best blank out there, is the repro from DMCH. It's hard metal
(and murder on the cutting wheels) and a nice handle with logo.


-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:17 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Compatible Key blank


You should be careful in crossrefing the blanks. All blanks are not
created equal. Some are made from very soft pot metal and will wear
out quickly. Brass is good and nickel-silver is best. Just remember if
the key wears the locks won't and vice versa. Also a soft key is easy
to break off.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <gzapf_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> For everyone's cross reference parts lists:
>
> I just had a successful key copy made at Home Depot on an Axxess+ #38
> blank.  This was an ignition / later door key.  Axxess+ seems to be
> the popular brand at most key copy kiosks at hardware / misc stores.





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 05:18:49 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating 
one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a service 
station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment, 
after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was all 
over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours 
out. First you hear a drizzling sound as if it were leaking 
somewhere, then it all pours out from beneith the water pump. Someone 
said that it might be the hose behind the pump under the air 
manifold. However, I don't know how to proceed to get to that hose. 
Is there an "easy" way? I was able to remove the rear facia, and now 
have a good angle at the pump, can I simply remove the pump without 
unbolting the intake? Or am I in for a massive project? Thanks

Mr. T.
10440




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 22:34:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: BAD BATTERY TWICE

Had my battery die on me, NEW Q.State Twice!  YES TWICE! 
TWO DIFFERENT BATTERY'S
12.66 Volts! 
Second battery lasted two weeks until the car sat more than two to three days it died completely no lights, no gages, no nothing any suggestions?  Until Jumped, but I suspect it to die any time now!
 
 
Is the ALT. the cause or is it a constant drain on the batt. and WHERE would I start to look for the drain?
 Never really had a problem before?
I have AC DELCO Cad. Alt 140 AMP. installed about two years ago!
The Delorean does run off the ALT. if the battery is disconnected, although I know it is not the best for the ALT. just to see.
 



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 08:02:54 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: re: battery ground lug (was sudden death)

In a message dated 4/5/04 1:49:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


> How did you deal with this? I had a real problem recently when that 
> bolt was broken off (prior owner, ground was then relocated). It was 
> essentially impossible to get out the remaining piece of the bolt (no 
> where to get a drill in there). Did you get lucky and have it back 
> out with the nut? 

Dave and others,

as soon as i realized what i had done (when the bolt starts turning pretty 
easily after it had been pretty hard!!!) i took about ten minutes to assess the 
situation.  no way to get a drill in and i couldn't find another place to 
ground w/o drilling thru my already fragile frame.  so i sprayed even MORE PB 
Blaster all over the area and let it sit a bit, then i tried the nut on the other 
side (i never knew the back side of the trailing arm bracket was threaded) and 
luckily for me, the nut was seized to the stud so i was able to back it 
almost all the way out with a wrench until the nut bottomed out on the inside of 
the frame, still not totally unthreaded.  i briefly considered getting my dremel 
from home to cut off the nut and try to use vice-grips to turn the stud the 
rest of the way out, but that nut was the only hope i really had anyway.  i 
backed it out as far as i could, then stuck a pry bar up around it and gave it a 
hit, which popped it right out.  luckily the hardware store was open for 5 
more minutes so i could get a new nut and bolt!!!

if the nut weren't stuck to the stud, i have no idea what i would have done.  

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 02:18:30 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: A/C problems

Be sure to check the mechanical temperature door for proper 
operation. Often the adjustment will slip and give a "blend" that 
directs the air across both the ac and heater cores and yields a 
symptom similar to your description. It can be a tricky adjustment 
and it is a mechanical wire. I would recommend adjusting for max ac. 
If you don't you will not get the max ac or coolest fresh air.

Be sure to check all the vacuum motors for leaks. Checking to see if 
the system holds a vacuum after shutdown can tell you if there is a 
leak somewhere. The system should hold a vacuum for at least 5 min. 

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, casey barlow <dmc1288mph_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi  everyone,  I still have an a/c problem,the a/c will not blow 
hard on the high fan setting.I have checked to see that the vents 
are open, the mode switch is getting vacuum, when you change the 
mode switch settings (a/c, heater ,defrost, vent) they all work.I 
have also checked to see that the fan is turning in the right 
direction.The recirculation flap is also opening, and you can hear 
the a/c fan spinning fast,but it just want blow hard on any of the 
setting (a/c,heater,defrost,vent).It seems to me like something is 
blocking the air flow right after it leaves the fan, because it 
effects all of the settings. Any help would be great! THANKS and see 
you in June, Casey VIN 3270




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 16:59:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Another Raffle Car update

Hi all - today the raffle car passed the Illinois Emission test on 
the first try - "fast pass". Things are looking good!

Dave S (raffle car mechanic to the stars.....)




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:11:50 -0000
From: "grooveshack26" <grooveshack_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: vin scedt26t8bd001601

hi i just purchased an 1981 DeLorean, there is no fuel pump just the 
hole where it goes in tank and the rubber boot that holds it, is this 
the same set up a volvo uses or is it special too this make, and 
where is a good place too purchase these parts, also the shop that i 
purchased this vehicle from replaced heads they had there first 
tourque set, now when i get it running and warm up they will need too 
have the second tourque do you know what that setting tightness 
should be, thanks for your help . rod




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:38:00 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: BAD BATTERY TWICE

When you turn the key to the "run" position (without starting the 
car) does the alternator discharge light come on? If so, this is 
good. If not, then the warning bulb may be burnt out. Does the 
discharge light come on when the engine -is- running? If not, then 
your alternator is likely fine.

You most likely have a "load" on the battery due to a short somewhere 
in the electrical system. I've heard that the OEM door lock module 
can cause this sometimes.

Get a volt or multimeter and with the car and accessories turned 
completely off, measure battery voltage. You should see it slowly 
dropping. At this point, pull one fuse at a time from the fuse block 
until the voltage drop STOPS. This will enable you to isolate which 
subsystem has the ground or short which is loading the battery.

>From there, it's the un-fun task of tracing wires looking for 
previous-owner hacks, and cuts in the insulation on the affected 
subsystem. Some owners buy battery cut-off switches to isolate the 
battery when the car is in storage. That's fine for long-term storage 
but in my opinion it's a band-aid fix for short-term parking/rapid 
battery death.

Hope this helps,

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, john podlewski <flyboy_6876_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Had my battery die on me, NEW Q.State Twice!  YES TWICE! 
> TWO DIFFERENT BATTERY'S
> 12.66 Volts! 
> Second battery lasted two weeks until the car sat more than two to 
three days it died completely no lights, no gages, no nothing any 
suggestions?  Until Jumped, but I suspect it to die any time now!



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 18:13:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: JOHN DELOREAN/BELFAST TELEGRAPH

Thanks to John Dore for the link:

-------- Original Message --------

http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/story.jsp?story=508946







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:14:12 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Pigeon Forge Stats Update (for fun)

The Web page has been updated for the Raffle car and there are now 4 videos 
of the car.  It takes a bit to download them so if the screen is white for a 
while go do something else while it is downloading and remember to refresh if 
you don't see any changes.  We also added the list of parts added by DMCH along 
with some photos.

Dave has corrected the starting, marker lights and a bunch of stuff since the 
last video and you will be able to hear and see that between the different 
videos.  This car is running FINE.

My thanks to all the vendors who have contributed into making this not just a 
good car but a great car.

For those of you that like Stats and numbers here we go with the stats of the 
show so far.

There are 21 States Represented so far plus some non US registrations

OH, IL, AZ, NC, AL, PA, NH, MO,NJ,GA, OR, WI, ME,SC, FL, NY, KY, LA, MN, TN 
and in addition the UK, Canada and Australia.

I believe we had either 29 or 34 (memory is not as good anymore lol) states 
last time.

The number of new people registered for the show VS returnees is a whopping 
64% new and 36% returning.

HOWEVER 

The hotel reservations tell a different story

The New people represent 48% and the retrunees represent 52% closer to the 
50-50 mix that has been typical.  Looks like we have some procrastinators LOL

As of this date we have sold out 182 rooms.  This is 21 ahead of where we 
were in Memphis last time and represents about 50 more people.

Unlike the other shows where Thursday was lightly attended and Fri and Sat 
has the majority, This years show is pretty even.  Thursday is a bit behind but 
only by a few percent.

Additional T-shirt order presales are up.  And its new but we are getting 
some magazine subscriptions.

The Raffle Car As of this morning has sold 95 tickets of the 150 needed.  
Looking at the rate of sales if we extend it out to the day of the show should 
have us selling about 190 tickets by then so we think we will make it 
comfortably.

The record sales day for Raffle tickets was Ffeb 17th with 15 tickets sold 
and then again yesterday was a good day at 11 tickets sold.

The sales of raffle tickets is either in batches or nothing it seems.

Most people buy 1 ticket.  Most sold was 11 I believe to one person.

We have about 46 cars so far and most of you are doing the driving tour.

As far as rooms this is different than before

Most of you are taking the less expensive rooms.  This is different than the 
last two shows.

Well that is all I have for now 

See you in Pigeon Forge and Please register before May 1st.  Remember the 
Free T-shirt ends May 1st and a $5 late fee is charged after that.

The NCAA is over so now you have time to plan for Pigeon Forge

Remember Dolly says HI Y'all


Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 21:48:40 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Automatic Transmission Problems

Andy, If it's an automatic the computer governor may need to be rebuilt. I
can help you with that.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Holder [mailto:adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 9:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Automatic Transmission Problems


Hello, I just bought a Delorean and I am having
shifting problems. It will not shift into 2/3 gear
until around 4700-5200 RPM. Once it finally shifts, it





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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:36:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

There are two articles on changing the water pump in the DMCnews tech 
section. You won't be able to (or at the very least it'll be extremely 
tough to) undo the top 45 degree hoses on the pump without taking the 
intake manifold off. The hoses at the back which are 99% certain to be 
the cause will need to be done up after replacing them - which you 
definitely can't do without taking the intake manifold off.

http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm

Taking the intake off is a daunting task when you first attempt it, but 
having done a large number of them, I can strip an intake in about 20 
minutes now. Putting it back together's a bit more time consuming though!!!

Remember to change the 6 O-rings as well. If they've not been changed 
since the car was new, they'll be like plastic and won't seal worth a 
damn once separated.

Martin

thinkstainless wrote:

>Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating 
>one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a service 
>station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment, 
>after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was all 
>over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours 
>out. First you hear a drizzling sound as if it were leaking 
>somewhere, then it all pours out from beneith the water pump. Someone 
>said that it might be the hose behind the pump under the air 
>manifold. However, I don't know how to proceed to get to that hose. 
>Is there an "easy" way? I was able to remove the rear facia, and now 
>have a good angle at the pump, can I simply remove the pump without 
>unbolting the intake? Or am I in for a massive project? Thanks



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:31:05 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

Along with the addtional things David mentioned, you will also have 
to get a set of adjustable lower control arms too.  They're designed 
to set your tires parallel, otherwise, you'll have a few more 
problems to contend with.  I know Matthew Olans had his car 
completely lowered and had to get those installed.

Johnny
5518


I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my DeLorean.
I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers 
the entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
original design height.





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 11:50:35 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: BAD BATTERY TWICE

John,
Even though the light can and will go out which you would think the alt is
ok, when the car is turned off and if the rotor is shorted there will be a
current draw that would drain the battery.
If you drive with out the battery hooked up, that will work in an emergency
case. Just don't turn on anything extra or you will burn up the diodes and
regulator in the alternator. Even though the car runs off the alternator
when your above 12.66 volts and driving, the alternator is part of the
circuit and is talking to the battery and then the car.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: john podlewski [mailto:flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] BAD BATTERY TWICE


Had my battery die on me, NEW Q.State Twice!  YES TWICE!
TWO DIFFERENT BATTERY'S
12.66 Volts!
Second battery lasted two weeks until the car sat more than two to three
days it died completely no lights, no gages, no nothing any suggestions?
Until Jumped, but I suspect it to die any time now!





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