From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1954
Date: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 8:33 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. AW: BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

4. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

5. Ribbed radiator piping to water pump?
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Re: Lowering Springs
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Lowering Springs
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

8. Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

12. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Additional Thoughts Re: Water Pump Replacement
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Head bolt torqueing - warning
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. World premiere DeLorean video
From: ElectroDFW_at_dml_cs.com

21. Re: Lowering Springs
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. RE: BAD BATTERY TWICE
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

24. Re: Lowering Springs
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 17:59:13 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

Mr. T - Your best course of action is to remove the intake manifold 
so that you can change all of the hoses under there.  The removal of 
the intake is not really that bad, especially if you leave the fuel 
injection system intact (simply moved up and out of the way), and 
remove only the manifold itself.  If you can remove the fascia, the 
intake is really a walk in the park.  While you have the intake off, 
this is a great time to do a proper tune-up by replacing the cap, 
rotor, and wires.  A good flush of the clutch hydraulic system is 
also facilitated by removing the intake.  Take your time in this, and 
do it right, and you won't have to be in there for a long time.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating 
> one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a 
service 
> station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment, 
> after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was 
all 
> over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours 
> out. First you hear a drizzling sound as if it were leaking 
> somewhere, then it all pours out from beneith the water pump. 
Someone 
> said that it might be the hose behind the pump under the air 
> manifold. However, I don't know how to proceed to get to that hose. 
> Is there an "easy" way? I was able to remove the rear facia, and 
now 
> have a good angle at the pump, can I simply remove the pump without 
> unbolting the intake? Or am I in for a massive project? Thanks
> 
> Mr. T.
> 10440




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 22:51:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

You cannot get to any of these parts easily and to remove the water
pump you have to get the intake manifold off and to get the manifold
off you have to disassemble the fuel system. If it is the origional
water pump then you probably still have the origional hoses underneath
too. It ALL should be replaced. Call the venders and get their prices
for the Master Water Pump Kit. You might as well tune it up too so ask
about those prices. If you didn't overheat the motor at least you
don't have to pull the heads! BTW you didn't have to remove the rear
facia.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating 
> one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a service 
> station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment, 
> after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was all 
> over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours 
> out. 



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 21:20:26 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: BAD BATTERY TWICE

Very good idea to run the car without alternator.
That's the worst case test that is done to any electronic device in a car.
It's called Load dump !
An alternator without battery will produce about 100V or more for a few
seconds.
Congratulations, you probably fried most of your electronic devices on your
car !

Why didn't you just measure the standby current drawn from your battery ?
A cheap 10$ DMM is all you need.

Elvis & 6548




Had my battery die on me, NEW Q.State Twice!  YES TWICE!
TWO DIFFERENT BATTERY'S
12.66 Volts!
Second battery lasted two weeks until the car sat more than two to three
days it died completely no lights, no gages, no nothing any suggestions?
Until Jumped, but I suspect it to die any time now!


Is the ALT. the cause or is it a constant drain on the batt. and WHERE would
I start to look for the drain?
 Never really had a problem before?
I have AC DELCO Cad. Alt 140 AMP. installed about two years ago!
The Delorean does run off the ALT. if the battery is disconnected, although
I know it is not the best for the ALT. just to see.





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 19:08:36 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

Sounds like you burst the coolant hose under the intake manifold. Contact PJ
Grady and get his coolant hose replacement set. It contains all the hoses in
the coolant system. (As long as your changing one you may as well change
them all). Yes, it is a big job and you will probably break off some bolts
but you will only have to do it once. You might want to change out the
waterpump at the same time.

Search the archives for further information because this is a common
problem.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:18 AM
Subject: [DML] Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!


> Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating
> one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a service
> station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment,
> after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was all
> over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours
> out.



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 21:55:23 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Ribbed radiator piping to water pump?

I know this is not a stock item is it to another similar volvo 
engine? I need to change these out on my car and I prefer the ribbed 
look over the smooth. If I can get these at any auto parts store what 
should I ask for, or Where can I go to get these?

Thanks

Jason
2256




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 02:01:17 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Lowering Springs

I second everything said so far. On a lot of cars, the toe-in adjustment 
required after lowering the rear can take the number of shims on the 
trailing arm bolts beyond the limit of five, although I think this limit 
was set due to the strength of the bolt, so I guess having Inconel bolts 
allows the number to be increased.

There are several cars in the UK running around with front springs on 
the rear and we've had one in that had eight shims on one side! 
Personally I have Grady's shocks and DOC front springs - my front end is 
lower than I'd like but the back is fine.

Martin







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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 11:14:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

Ej,

I've been through it all. I bought my car with a stock suspension and soon
had my car lowered by DMC Garden Grove. They cut all 4 springs and brought
the entire car down. I loved the car when it was like this. The handling
was amazing - it really drove quite differently. But, my car is a daily
driver and pretty soon I'd gone through 2 radiators from slamming my front
end into driveway inclines, speed bumps, etc. I then DMC Garden Grove pull
out those springs, return my rear to stock springs, and installed PJ Grady
1.5 inch lowering springs in the front. This is the setup that I'm driving
today. I still rub the front, but not nearly as often. Once you learn to
take driveways and speedbumps at angles, you're okay with these springs.

If you want the full lowering set, I've still got the springs and would
sell them cheap.

-Christian

On Mon, 5 Apr 2004, EJ Chambers wrote:

> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
> original design height.
>



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 23:00:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601

How does the motor in this car run without a fuel pump? It must have
one somewhere!!!!!!! To do it right call one of the Delorean venders
and they will help you figure out what's missing and what you need. It
will cost some $$$$$. For torques just look it up in the Workshop
Manual. The torqueing procedure is on C:05:06-:07 It is not just a
simple torque with a torque wrench. If you don't have a Workshop
Manual include one in your first order along with an oil filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "grooveshack26" <grooveshack_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> hi i just purchased an 1981 DeLorean, there is no fuel pump just the 
> hole where it goes in tank and the rubber boot that holds it, is this 
> the same set up a volvo uses or is it special too this make, and 
> where is a good place too purchase these parts, also the shop that i 
> purchased this vehicle from replaced heads they had there first 
> tourque set, now when i get it running and warm up they will need too 
> have the second tourque do you know what that setting tightness 
> should be, thanks for your help . rod




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:24:35 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: BAD BATTERY TWICE

Yikes! Dont do that - the alternator relies on the battery as a big 
smoothing capacitor - all your electrical devices (eg guages) will be 
seeing all manner of voltage spikes.

As to your specific problem - is the sense wire working? Does your 
battery light work on your dash? Without that, the alternator won't 
charge the battery.

Martin

john podlewski wrote:

>The Delorean does run off the ALT. if the battery is disconnected, although I know it is not the best for the ALT. just to see.
> 
>
>  
>





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 19:38:58 -0000
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601

Hello and Congrats,

On the issue of the fuel pump I would recomend speaking with one of 
the Delorean vendors such as specialtauto, pjgrady, delorean one,and 
so on(they are all great to deal with), that way you will get the 
right part and this will prevent guess work if you have running 
issues.   On the issue of the torque specs, you will need a tourqe 
wrench and a torque protractor(available at most good parts stores, 
if you don't already have these).  If you e-mail me off the list
(svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com) with a fax # I will send you a copy from the 
volvo service manual on how to retourqe the heads and in what 
sequence.  This should help you.

good luck,


Stephane 
Vin2450

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "grooveshack26" <grooveshack_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> hi i just purchased an 1981 DeLorean, there is no fuel pump just 
the 
> hole where it goes in tank and the rubber boot that holds it, is 
this 
> the same set up a volvo uses or is it special too this make, and 
> where is a good place too purchase these parts, also the shop that 
i 
> purchased this vehicle from replaced heads they had there first 
> tourque set, now when i get it running and warm up they will need 
too 
> have the second tourque do you know what that setting tightness 
> should be, thanks for your help . rod




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 21:12:53 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: vin scedt26t8bd001601

Rod - The fuel pump is common for several types of cars, and is 
available from any of your favorite DeLorean vendors for less than 
you could purchase it "out there". You simply have to decide who 
your favorite DeLorean vendor is. The torque setting comes in two 
forms ... a torque setting, followed by an angular setting. You 
really should get yourself a Workshop Manual so that you can at least 
have an idea what is required for these funky little cars. I would 
give you the numbers and angles, but I don't have my manual in front 
of me. Also, there is of course a specific pattern for torqueing the 
head bolts. 

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1" 
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC 
www.delorean-parts.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "grooveshack26" <grooveshack_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> hi i just purchased an 1981 DeLorean, there is no fuel pump just 
the hole where it goes in tank and the rubber boot that holds it, is 
this the same set up a volvo uses or is it special too this make, and 
> where is a good place too purchase these parts, also the shop that 
i purchased this vehicle from replaced heads they had there first 
> tourque set, now when i get it running and warm up they will need 
too have the second tourque do you know what that setting tightness 
> should be, thanks for your help . rod




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 13:07:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

I'll respectfully argue this point. My car has been lowered, and now 
matches the alignment height specs given in the manual. Prior to 
lowering it it had to add 250 pounds of weight in the trunk to get 
the crossmember height where the manual says it should be for proper alignment. I don't think this is what the designers intended. 

Everything else is true - you do have to be a bit more careful. 

The wierd thing at least in my case is that after installing the lower springs, no alignment other than toe-in was necessary. 
Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Be careful in lowering the car. You will scrape when you drive in 
and
> out of driveways. You reduce the travel on the suspension so you 
will
> bottom out easier. You will also require a realignment. Depending on
> the condition of your local roads it could be a very bad idea. Watch
> out for raised manholes when they repave the roads! The venders sell
> these kits because some owners want them but IMHO it is not a good
> idea to lower the car. There is a lot of controversy over the
> "origional" design ride height. There are those who think it was
> supposed to be lower and there are others that go by the specs in 
the
> Workshop Manual.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 01:55:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Additional Thoughts Re: Water Pump Replacement

Add to Martin G's and David T's recommendations:
- Have extra copper banjo washers on hand (some always fall and get
lost when removing/reinstalling fuel system)
- Replace O rings for coolant distribution pipe
- Replace or eliminate steel pipe in the heater core return line
- Replace vacuum lines while so accessible

I'd also consider replacing 7mm bolts on the coolant distribution pipe
with stainless studs and nuts from Rob Grady. Bolts that hold the pump
are very common 8x1.25, if you want to replace them with studs as
well. Steel and aluminum weld themselves together in the presence of
moisture (leaking coolant). Stainless on stainless however remains
easily removeable. Doesn't matter if studs weld themselves to the
block -- all you care about is turning the nuts.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 02:04:49 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

I recently pulled my intake manifold out.  You also may want to
replace the vacuum switch and at least those 3 vacuum hoses.  The
vacuum hoses under there looked fine from the top, but after removing
them, all 3 were very badly cracked and rotted on their underside. 
John Hervey sells a kit that includes all of the hoses in the engine
compartment, cut to length, and numbered with a diagram.

Matt
#1604




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 02:05:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

That's the only front end adjustment you can make on a DeLorean...

I fully agree that production front suspension height does not appear
to be intended design. Not only does it differ from the drawings, but
the prototype sat lower as well.

I've lowered mine until the gap between OEM size tires and wheel wells
matches the gap in the rear (don't ask me how -- flame alert, flame
alert). Don't notice any difference in handling, good or bad, but it
definitely looks 100% better. I wouldn't recommend lowering all 4
corners however.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I'll respectfully argue this point. My car has been lowered, and now 
> matches the alignment height specs given in the manual. Prior to 
> lowering it it had to add 250 pounds of weight in the trunk to get 
> the crossmember height where the manual says it should be for proper
alignment. 




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 01:58:20 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

About the only clue given that ride height may be too high is 
contained in the instructions for alignment requiring the height to 
be 5 1/2 inches. To do that you have to put some weight in the trunk 
of most D's. The rear is almost always 5 1/2. So, I believe in 
lowering to 5 1/2 inches and I believe the ride is much more 
controlled at that height. This is what Grady's springs do. Further, 
the stiffness of Grady's seem about the same as OEM but the spring 
rate seems to stiffen quicker in travel but also feel free at the 
top end of the spring. This means that dipping during braking, 
cornering and the feared bottom-out stuff is nil. I found only that 
a controlled ride requires at least OEM shock firmness and rebound 
rate or the ride in the front end will feel bouncy. The lower front 
does help steering control in my opinion. Too low however will cause 
problems in alignment, tire wear, etc.

Harold McElraft - 3354





-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my 
DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers 
the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
> original design height.
> 
> Any insight about either of these sets would be great. I would 
love to
> hear feedback from people who have installed these new springs to 
see
> if they like them, would they have done differently, etc..
> 
> Thanks in advance!!
> Ej
> Vin 4475




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 02:54:10 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Head bolt torqueing - warning

The manual describes a procedure which was fine on a new engine, however 
on a 22 year old engine that's probably overheated at some point (why 
else would you be taking the heads off?), the threads in the block into 
which the head bolts screw are likely to be dirty and contaminated. The 
angle torque specs make these threads work extremely hard, and stripping 
them out is a distinct possibility.

Our PRV guy (a renault 30 owner and veteran of many engine builds as 
well as many PRVs during his time as a Renault workshop manager) told us 
that the type of head gasket on the PRV means the 
re-torquing-once-warmed-up procedure can be skipped IF the heads are 
prepared properly before being bolted down. He also said that unless we 
wanted to strip the threads in the block, ignore the manual and torque 
the bolts (in the correct sequence) to 90 ft-lbs. Then assemble the 
engine and run it to temperature once for the gasket adhesive to flow 
and bed in.

The proper preparation for the heads is to face them - this ensures they 
are perfectly clean, and also perfectly flat. Contradicting the manual, 
these can be faced - if the heads are so warped that to get them flat 
you have to take too much off, you needed new heads anyway.

Head gasket jobs are rare, but I've personally done three. On one car, 
we replaced a head due to a messed-up manifold stud. That same engine 
overheated massively about 3 months later (nothing to do with our work!) 
and the gasket on the head we _didn't_ change, blew.

Just make sure your water pump, thermostat and rad fan switch work! It's 
a tiny outlay compared to a head gasket job!

So, to Mr T. Just take off the rocker covers and check all the head 
bolts are torqued to 90 ft-lbs. As long as they were prepared properly, 
you'll have no problems.

Martin
DMUK





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 21:05:03 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

In a message dated 4/6/04 6:54:13 PM Central Daylight Time, 
webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:


> Remember to change the 6 O-rings as well. If they've not been changed 
> since the car was new, they'll be like plastic and won't seal worth a 
> damn once separated.
> 
> Martin

To add to Martin's good advice, you should be ready to have the car laid up 
for a few days just in case you break a bolt removing the intake manifold or 
when removing the Y-pipe underneath.  If the waterpump is original, you would do 
well to buy PJ Grady's water pump master kit (about $350) so you can do the 
job right the first time, in the hopes of not having to go back there for 
another 20 years.  word to the wise - pressure test your cooling system BEFORE you 
put the intake manifold on and make sure you can hold 15lbs of pressure for at 
least 10 minutes.  if you are in a really quiet place, when you pump it up, 
you should be able to hear hissing if you have any loose hoses.  inspect each 
connector, even up by the radiator, for bubbling or signs or leakage.  

if you need assistance as you go, don't hesitate to email me - i've been 
where you're going and pretty much everything that can go wrong happened to me!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 22:45:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)

As long as you didn't put too much in you should be alright. After all
grease is just oil with a lot of soap in it to thicken it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 4/5/04 10:49:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> Michael.Fischer_at_dml_d... writes:
> 
> 
> > Did I make huge boo-boo?  (i.e. messed up my rack) or is this a no-
> > biggie?  Any ideas?  (I haven't moved the steering position since I 
> > did this.)
> 
> Don't worry about it.  the boots just protect the insides of the
inner tie 
> rods which could probably use the grease anyway!!!!!!
> 
> Andy



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 20:07:01 EDT
From: ElectroDFW_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: World premiere DeLorean video

MODERATOR NOTE: Trio is a somewhat obscure cable channel not available in all markets. ALSO - last I heard Daniel McGauley was still selling the only legal copies of the movie - he lists it on ebay very often. 
------------------------------------------------------------

Hi All,


Be sure to set your Tivo's for this:

Doc Block: On Sunday, June 6, TRIO presents a documentary block 
featuring films that cover the wide-ranging subjects of pop-culture classic 
failures. 

<snip>

...and the world television premiere of the 60-minute version of D.A. 
Pennebakerís DeLorean (the 1981 film made just before the automakerís business  demise) airs at 10:00 p.m., ET.

Is this already available? If so, who has it, and how much?


Regards,

--David M--

no VIN yet...



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 06:18:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

Last I checked, if you also use the Grady shocks you
can lower the rear by moving the mount on the shock.

I have a set of the DMCH springs on 6068.  I selected
them because my stock springs had been cut, and I
needed all four anyway.  

At some point, I plan on putting the Grady setup on
1860.  

--- EJ Chambers <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs
> for my DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's
> set. DMCH lowers the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front
> springs to their
> original design height.
<SNIP>


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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 14:30:08 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant Leak Problem HELP ME!

How old are your hoses? 

As "someone" suggested, it's either a hose on the rear of the pump or 
the waterpump shaft seal has blown. There is a hole in the casting on 
the underside of the water pump shaft where the coolant runs right 
out if the seal is shot. You can stick your finger behind the pulley, 
on the underside of the casting and feel it.

I hate to break it to you, but you usually have to remove the intake 
for this job. I was able to do it without pulling the intake once but 
only because I had screwdrivers of all funky lengths and all the hose 
clamp screws were pointed in -exactly- the right directions. In the 
end, I had to pull the intake to seat everything properly anyway.

Contrary to popular myth, this is -not- an impossible job. I'd say 
removing the fuel/mixture control unit is the biggest hassle, not the 
intake. The only trick is merely to lable all of your hardware, fuel 
and electrical connections for easy reassembly. Oh, and buy the 
intake O-ring seals from a vendor -before- you begin. This will 
prevent vacuum leaks at reassembly.

As David Titlebaum's favorite phrase is "While you're in there..."
I recommend replacing all hoses in that vicinity. That way you only 
have to go in there ONE time. Heck, I was so paranoid I even replaced 
all switches and sensors in the coolant "Y" pipe under the intake 
with brandy-new ones from Houston. Also inspect that metal heater 
hose pipe to make sure it's not about to rust through. It also runs 
under the intake. Lastly, clean out the castings in the "valley". 
Make sure there's no coolant rotting a hole in the engine block on 
you, and get all the dirt, hardware, dead rodents and what-all that 
have accumulated in there.

Despite the length of my reply, it's not that ugly of a job. A day, 
depending on how rusty your engine hardware is. Many days if you snap 
off a bunch of bolts. :)

Rich
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hey guys, having overheating problems with my D. It was overheating 
> one day while I was driving and I was trying to make it to a 
service 
> station when all this smoke plumed out of my engine compartment, 
> after pulling over, you could smell coolant everywhere and it was 
all 
> over the compartment. Now when I goto add more coolant it all pours 
> out. First you hear a drizzling sound as if it were leaking 
> somewhere, then it all pours out from beneith the water pump. 
Someone 
> said that it might be the hose behind the pump under the air 
> manifold. However, I don't know how to proceed to get to that hose. 
> Is there an "easy" way? I was able to remove the rear facia, and 
now 
> have a good angle at the pump, can I simply remove the pump without 
> unbolting the intake? Or am I in for a massive project? Thanks
> 
> Mr. T.
> 10440




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 08:48:34 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: BAD BATTERY TWICE

That's highly likely. I ruined 3 batteries before I figured it out and
replaced my alternator.

Yank it off and take it to an alternator shop and have it tested.

-----Original Message-----
From: john podlewski [mailto:flyboy_6876_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] BAD BATTERY TWICE

Had my battery die on me, NEW Q.State Twice!  YES TWICE! 
TWO DIFFERENT BATTERY'S
12.66 Volts! 
Second battery lasted two weeks until the car sat more than two to three
days it died completely no lights, no gages, no nothing any suggestions?
Until Jumped, but I suspect it to die any time now!
 
 
Is the ALT. the cause or is it a constant drain on the batt. and WHERE would
I start to look for the drain?
 Never really had a problem before?
I have AC DELCO Cad. Alt 140 AMP. installed about two years ago!
The Delorean does run off the ALT. if the battery is disconnected, although
I know it is not the best for the ALT. just to see.

 



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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 07:12:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

Be prepared for lots of differing personal opinions. 
Here's mine:   

I have Grady's 1.5" lowered front springs.  Then, I
have the  "Marty Maier" shocks (Midstate DeLorean). 
The rear shocks have an adjustable collar which
effectively allows you to adjust the height of the
rear of the car.  

I am completely satisfied with this set-up.  I have
over 30,000 miles on it and wouldn't change.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

--- EJ Chambers <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs
> for my DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's
> set. DMCH lowers the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front
> springs to their
> original design height.



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 01:24:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Did something dumb.... (aka Greased the wrong thing)

Don't worry about it. A little shot of grease in the bellows will 
not mess anything up or affect anything.

Harold McElraft - 3354



> Well, then I got out the needle injector for the grease gun, to 
lube 
> the tie rod ends.  But I don't know what the heck I was thinking, 
> instead of getting the needle into the tie rod end boot, I  
slipped 
> in into the "accordian bellows style" boot at the end of the 
> steering rack, and gave it a little shot of grease.
> 
> Did I make huge boo-boo?  (i.e. messed up my rack) or is this a no-
> biggie?  Any ideas?  (I haven't moved the steering position since 
I 
> did this.)
> 
> And how embarassing to have to post this... but I'd rather be 
> embarassed then ruin the rack.
> 
> Mike
> #17106




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