From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1957
Date: Friday, April 09, 2004 8:30 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

4. Constant High Idle Speed
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>

5. Re: Manuel transmission fluid?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Concours Competiton
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Lowering Springs
From: "jpg6661" <jg873_at_dml_juno.com>

9. Broken Bolt advice
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

10. Removing Intake Manifold
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Delorean Sighting
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: Stainless steel problems PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: Stainless steel problems PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

14. RE: Lowering Springs
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

15. RE: Cooling fans won't turn off..?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Clutch bleeding
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

19. Re: Re: Lowering Springs
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. RE: Dash and binacle needed
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

21. RE: Gauge Cluster For Sale
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Broken Bolt advice
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. RE: Removing Intake Manifold
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. RE: Constant High Idle Speed
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Constant High Idle Speed
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 03:44:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories

Like it or nor, agree with me or not, the plain and simple fact of
life is EVERY car marque is judged by it's concours. It is the
benchmark and the standard against which every other car of that
marque is judged. It is what sets the top value for a "pristine"
example and what constitutes the "ideal". Like a beauty contest. My
thoughts are that we have a chance to add our input as to some of the
rules. Every owner has a stake in this so if anyone thinks a rule is
not correct now is the time to voice your opinion. If you have
documentation to justify your position than present it. Your silence
is a tacit approval of the process. I agree that the concours
competition is not for everyone but everyone can participate in
setting the rules. If you say nothing than DMCH will make the rules as
they see fit without your input. BTW it is not any one event but the
accumulation of many. No one concours sets the values just as no one
auction sets the values. Most look at trends, or several consecutive
events to get a better idea of the way things are going. For the lucky
winner it puts the "stamp of approval" on that particular car and
helps to authenticate it while increasing it's value. There will alays
be a driver class and the concours class for those willing to compete.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> With all due respect to my friend David;
> 
> Sad state of affairs if the value of all of our cars
> are based on this one event.
> 
> Concours judging, as it has been done by DMCH is
> simple...  Make your car "fit the book" and you win...
>  eaway/




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 11:02:42 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories

See Below.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> Marc - the process DMCH uses is not very different than
> how the Mustang Club of America or the National Corvette
> Restorers Society run their concours events.  The 
> judges have a book based on the best information 
> available about the particular vintage of cars.  
> Early Mustangs are particularly difficult to judge 
> given the number of options available and the fact 
> that most option packages did not have any correlation
> to the VIN.  There are 110% of the total number of 
> 1965 Mustang GTs on the road today because of the
> ease of adding the options.  And there is no way to 
> tell if the car was originally built that way.  And
> you want to talk about picky?  Just wait until you 
> lose points at an NCRS judging because the OK stamp 
> on your rocker cover is "too crisp".

There is not a whole heck of a lot of forgery in the DeLorean 
world.   Unless you have a specific rare car (Gold, Legend, famous 
owner, and so on) I have my doubts that swapping factory options on 
any DeLorean (Transmission, interior color, what else is there?!) 
will alter the price.  Making a regular mustang in to a GT will.  
This is a bad comparison..  FWIW, my 1966 mustang  convertible with a 
200cid and bench seat is how it came from the factory although it is 
not the same color. :)


> If someone finds a documented original car - single
> owner, low mileage, documented service history, etc., 
> the MCA and NCRS change their judging books.  I would 
> imagine that if someone had a DeLorean like that, DMCH
> would change their judging criteria, too.  They just
> need to know about it.

This was done, specifically with a few samples of 1983 DeLoreans with 
1981 exhaust systems.  I recall one of these cars loosing first place 
because of this single item.

> Your advice to buy a driver if you want to drive it
> and a winner if you want trophies fits any marque of car.  
> DeLoreans are not unique in that respect.
> 
> --

Note to Everyone:  My first message took exactly 48 hours from the 
time I sent it, to the time it got posted.  As soon as I saw it was 
posted (last night), I sent a follow up saying that I wrote that 
without the knowledge of the new "judging team".  That post has not 
made it through yet (even though I see others sent after mine have).  
I am guessing this is a problem with Yahoo because I also see 
messages on the web that I have not gotten in E-Mail yet. (Not 
picking on the moderator).  Just a FYI.






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 08:21:05 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Concours Judging For Options & Accessories

Marc,

You raise an very important question that we are also trying to reconcil 
with other car clubs.

Here is the best example,  a stock Nash Metropolitan had no seat belts, 
poor brakes and only stick shift.

Clearly, a metropolitan without seat belts is a very serious safety 
hazard.  Should this car be given more points than a car with seat belts?

What about adding disc brakes. ?  With all cars on the road able to stop 
better than a stock met isn't this a better car that should get more points?

The same thing for a Delorean.  Adding the Zilla products makes the car 
better.  A better car should be worth more points.

Adding the disc breaks made by someone from Norway?  clearly makes the 
car stop better.  

What about better tires?  The NCT were okay for their time, but this is 
today.  

IF you want a museum piece, trophy, trailer queen -that is what you have 
-  You don't have a car which is intended to daily "safe" driving and 
frequent use.

I think judging needs to be changed so that 70% is the "Acceptable 
Stock" level.  More points should be awared for better brakes, better 
electrical, better tires,  and possibly better finish-like clear coating 
the stainless.  (We all know how much work keeping the naked stainless 
looking good is!)

BOB




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 17:13:05 -0000
From: "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Constant High Idle Speed

Well, I bought my first DMC about 3 months ago and been spending a 
lot of time fixing up the mess of the previous owner.  Unfortunately 
I'm stuck on one last problem.  I have a constant high idle speed of 
1,900 RPM.  Twice what it should be.

My old regulator was rusted open and the inside was torn apart.  We 
decided to make our own regulator from a water valve and control it 
manually to see if this solved our problem. She ran beautiful.  Even 
driving her up and down my road she worked great.  I bought a new 
regulator and put it on and now I get a very high constant idle speed 
of 1,900 RPM.  Due to the test with the water valve, I believe that 
it is getting too much air into the engine now.  Something is holding 
the new regulator open... but I cannot figure out what.

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.  I'm dying to drive her 
more than just to the end of my road.
Thanks!
~Dan




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 14:58:30 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Manuel transmission fluid?

It uses 85W90 gear oil. Get the manual for the details, but a couple 
of hints:

Remove the filler plug FIRST. There's nothing quite like removing the 
drain plug, letting all the oil out, and then discovering that the 
filler plug is frozen. 

Get some sort of pump. Worst part of the job is getting 90W oil thru 
a 1/4 hose uphill back into the trans. I made up a pressure tank 
since I seem to do this a lot, but you can get a small oil pump 
(looks like a big ketchup pump) at auto stores or Harbor Freight. 

The clutch line ends at the slave cylinder on top of the trans next 
to the engine. Hard to find but it's there. Even harder to find the 
bleeder valve. Best bet is to get someone to show you. Where are you 
located? There are knowledgeable owners everywhere.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Not only is this my first delorean, but it is also my first manuel 
> transmission car. Is there tansmission fluid like in an auto? If 
> there is, where does it go. Also is the clutch fluid line in any 
way 
> hooked up to the transmission? Thanks for asking these kinda dumb 
> questions.
> 
> Jason
> 2256




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 02:07:49 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Concours Competiton

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder...

and car prices are set by what someone is willing to sell it for, or 
pay for it.

Why would anyone assume that the concours cars are the "pristine" 
or "ideal"??  Because a particular judge has the opinion that it is?  
Because it is the one that most closely matches a semi-accurate 
book?  I think the educated buyer knows better.... At least I hope 
they do. The plain and simple fact is that SOME people judge the 
value of a car based on a Concours winner, people who don't know any 
better or people buying a car based on what they can resell it for.

Even if a Concours winner sold for $100K tomorrow, It would have 
little to no impact on what anyone else (including previous winners) 
REALISTICALLY could get for theirs.  Heck, "ONE" vendor sells 
restored cars for $60K...  has it made the value of the rest of our 
cars go up?  I don't think so, even though the people who paid $60K 
for one of those cars says (with their checkbook) that they ARE worth 
$60K!   

We agree, that the way this event is handled does have an impact on 
the entire DeLorean community.   I feel it is more in the image the 
community wants to have, and not the value of our cars..  The 
Concours event (as it has been done in the past) presents the image 
that we are a bunch of nuts who need to have "matching numbers" (Yea, 
I know this does not apply to DeLoreans, but it is how many other 
snobbish car clubs do it) on a car for it to be worth anything... and 
if you dont have it, then you are a second class citizen.

Until Ken K came along, this was how I saw things... and I had never 
been to any DeLorean event for the first 6 years of my ownership 
until Ken had his show in 1998 and invited daily drivers.  I just 
wish I could convince Ken that he does not need the Concours event at 
all..  Does anyone go to these shows FOR the Concours?  Ken's shows 
are about the people, which is why I have yet to miss one (even 
though I know there is a long list of people who would love to kick 
my ass!)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Like it or nor, agree with me or not, the plain and simple fact of
> life is EVERY car marque is judged by it's concours. It is the
> benchmark and the standard against which every other car of that
> marque is judged. It is what sets the top value for a "pristine"
> example and what constitutes the "ideal". Like a beauty contest. My
<SNIP>




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 02:34:51 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?

Did it ever work correctly? Without knowing the wiring setup - is it 
oem, modified??? it is hard to say for sure what could be wrong. I 
would say there are two probable reasons the cooling fans are 
staying on that are not wiring related. Most likely - the otterstat 
is bad - the other obvious reason is the engine is staying too hot, 
from any number of causes, including the thermostat sticking/not 
functioning properly. You can check the temp of the outlet pipe and 
hose with a Laser Temp Gun. These are a great tool - you can check 
the temp of everything. Point and check the temp and you know for 
sure - right away.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Ok, here is the scenerio....
> My fans turn on when the A/C is on and turn off and on with the 
> cycling of the A/C compressor.  However, when they are activated 
by 
> the otterstat they stay on.  The system never cools past the first 
> mark in order for the otterstat to turn them off. It will stay at 
> this point for hours and never overheat it just never gets cooler 
and 
> the fans saty on.
> 
> I have replaced the otterstat (the old one was bad and didn't work 
at 
> all) and replaced the cap on the stainless coolant bottle becuase 
it 
> was getting old (the new one is a 16 psi cap like the old one).  I 
> bled the system forever and there are no air bubbles in it.  I 
have 
> even gone back and checked after a day or two.  The only time the 
> fans do turn off is when is is fairly cool out.  
> 
> I'm in Florida and it hasn't even gotten to the HOT of summer 
> yet....any help would be appreciated.... 
> 
> Michael 
> VIN#2944




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 14:47:56 -0000
From: "jpg6661" <jg873_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering Springs

I have been running the Marty Maire (Mid State Club) springs and 
shocks front and back for 2 years. very pleased with looks and 
handling.

              John

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am looking at purchasing a set of Lowering Springs for my 
DeLorean.
> I am debating between the DMCH set and PJ Grady's set. DMCH lowers 
the
> entire car where as Grady's only lowers the front springs to their
> original design height.
> 
> Any insight about either of these sets would be great. I would love 
to
> hear feedback from people who have installed these new springs to 
see
> if they like them, would they have done differently, etc..
> 
> Thanks in advance!!
> Ej
> Vin 4475




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 20:09:21 -0400 EDT
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Broken Bolt advice

Hey all,

Problem: Broken Bolt
Location: Outer Edge, Corner of Passenger Head (near jump lead post).
Condition: Not too bad, Exposed 3/8" of bolt.

<insert all advised ways to extract a broken bolt>

Extended Problem: Broken bit in broken bolt
Condition: VERY bad!

Yes, I was a bonehead in dealing with a broken bolt and have broken a 
bit INSIDE the broken bolt.

I REALLY do not want to remove the head, What can I do? The bolt is 
snapped off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. Using a small 
mirror I can see it is tightened down to within about 1/8" from the end 
of the hole. I would wager there is about 1/4" of material to get 
through. There is no exposed part of the broken bit or the broken bolt. 
I can't drill as the bit is in the way, I can't grind as I have found 
nothing small enough to get in there.

Mayday!

Michael
vin 6067



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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 02:32:05 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Removing Intake Manifold

New problem.

Removing the intake manifold. I have been able to move the top part 
thats conected to the distributor cap, but when I got benieth it, 
theres a metal line/bar that goes to something off the left hand 
side. I am at a loss, how do I proceed to get this damn intake off?

Mr. T.




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 22:40:32 -0400
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Delorean Sighting

Hi,
At 5:40pm today Thursday 4/8/04 I spotted another DeLorean heading North on Rt 82 in Hopewell Junction NY. Well... actually the driver of the D I saw spotted me first and flashed the headlights. I was heading south in my D.
Are you out there?

Tony
#10781 STSSTEEL
Wappingers Falls, NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 21:26:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless steel problems PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

Car covers are not tarps. Most are "breathable" -- what that means is
a microscrpic layer of dust, moisture, etc will penetrate to the
vehicle underneath. For example, even though they're under covers, my
cars now have a very thin veneer of yellow pollen on them. Far less
than the accumulated pollen on top, but it's there nonetheless.

I suggest looking up at the ceiling above your car. Something is
probably dripping on it. Water leeching through cement leaves all
sorts of discolored deposits (look at all the trouble Washington DC
has with its subway stations). 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_h...>
wrote:
> hello list..ok...i posted about this subject before....but the 
> answer did not help...ok so here is my problem....tonight, i went up 
> to my parking garage to uncover my delorean, just to give it a check 
> up and what do i see.....well, my delorean has bloches about the 
> size of a quarter all around the body



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 15:30:39 -0400
From: Eric Itzel <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless steel problems PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

Hi John

Have you tried a good washing and spending a few hours scotchbriteing the
panels? Maybe it's just some surface crap that'll "buff" out.

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "stainlessillusion2000" <dmcman_at_dml_hawaii.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 3:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Stainless steel problems PLEASE HELP ME!!!!


> hello list..ok...i posted about this subject before....but the
> answer did not help...ok so here is my problem....tonight, i went up
> to my parking garage to uncover my delorean, just to give it a check
> up and what do i see.....well, my delorean has bloches about the
> size of a quarter all around the body.....massive amounts of
> them....now....they look like a rust color.....but it is not rust
> (obviously)...the car sat for only 2 weeks.....now i know that if
> someone used a brillo pad...the grain from the brillo pad would be
> in the stainless and it would look like there is rust....but that is



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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 17:43:59 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Lowering Springs

OMG! Marc bought something from DMCH?

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 8:19 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Lowering Springs


Last I checked, if you also use the Grady shocks you
can lower the rear by moving the mount on the shock.

I have a set of the DMCH springs on 6068.  I selected
them because my stock springs had been cut, and I
needed all four anyway.

At some point, I plan on putting the Grady setup on
1860.

--- EJ Chambers <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 09:48:36 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cooling fans won't turn off..?

Michael, Sorry I forgot to mention in the last post, the correct pressure
for the cap is 15Lb's. A lot of people put in a 16 because they can't fine a
15. I do have them but it won't have anything to do with the turning on and
off problem.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcorlando2003 [mailto:SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 5:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cooling fans won't turn off..?


Ok, here is the scenerio....
My fans turn on when the A/C is on and turn off and on with the
cycling of the A/C compressor.  However, when they are activated by
the otterstat they stay on.  The system never cools past the first
mark in order for the otterstat to turn them off. It will stay at
this point for hours and never overheat it just never gets cooler and
the fans saty on.



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 18:36:35 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?

Sounds to me like the radiator isn't doing its job properly - I've seen 
it before where the rad works well enough to stop it getting any hotter 
when the fans are on, but not well enough to actually cool down, unless, 
as you say, it's cooler outside. Does the temperature fall when you're 
cruising at 60? We have a place that perform a flow test, flush if 
possible, and replace the core if not - don't know if it's the sort of 
service you guys have in the US.

It's also worth checking both fans are working.

Martin
DMUK

dmcorlando2003 wrote:

>Ok, here is the scenerio....
>My fans turn on when the A/C is on and turn off and on with the 
>cycling of the A/C compressor.  However, when they are activated by 
>the otterstat they stay on.  The system never cools past the first 
>mark in order for the otterstat to turn them off. It will stay at 
>this point for hours and never overheat it just never gets cooler and 
>the fans saty on.
>



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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 01:18:50 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Clutch bleeding

Hello. I'm a long time lurker, first time poster. Since I have my 
manifold off, I decided to bleed my clutch with new fluid. The last 
time I did it (Sept. 2001), I was able to reach in and turn the screw 
without trouble. Now when I try to loosen the screw, It's almost 
frozen on there and the wrench was starting to round it off. I was 
thinking to get vise grips on there and taking the screw off and 
replacing it. Can I get this screw from Pep Boys or other auto parts 
store and what size do I get? Thanks for any help. 

Mike 
5623

PS- The wrench I was using was 5/16. It seemed to fit good. Was that 
the right size?




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 12:46:12 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Cooling fans won't turn off..?

Have you run a pressure test on your cooling system?  Sometimes
a slight leak can go undetectable but lower the boiling point
of the coolant enough to cause this kind of problem.  

--
Mike



> Ok, here is the scenerio....
> My fans turn on when the A/C is on and turn off and on with the 
> cycling of the A/C compressor.  However, when they are activated by 
> the otterstat they stay on.  The system never cools past the first 
> mark in order for the otterstat to turn them off. It will stay at 
> this point for hours and never overheat it just never gets cooler and 
> the fans saty on.
> 



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 04:13:50 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Lowering Springs

I would be very interested in hearing from Bill Robertson about how his car 
handles, rides choppy?, etc.  and how the tire wear works.  I'm a bit of a 
low cost kind of guy and I've been thinking of cutting my own springs.
Thanks
Dale Funk
4984


Bill Robertson cut his front springs down on
> > his car with a dremel tool, and I agree with what he says. You really 
>can't tell
> > a difference positive or negative in regards to handling or ride. I 
>think it's
> > because he only chopped off about an inch from his springs. Anyone who 
>has seen
> > my car knows it's drastically lower.



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 22:37:03 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Dash and binacle needed

I need a grey dash and binacle in good condition.  I have a spare black
dash and binacle to trade...  

Or if anyone has a grey dash and binacle for a reasonable price, please
let me know off line.

Jack.
jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 04:16:45 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Gauge Cluster For Sale

I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get the silk screened plate that 
goes behind the
air conditioner and heating controls.  Mine got scratched up.  Delorean 
Motor Co tells me they don't have them. Any ideas?
Thanks
Dale Funk


>From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Gauge Cluster For Sale
>Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 19:33:41 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I've finally got all the new gauges that I'll be
>installing in 02650 so I'm putting the original
>cluster up for sale.  All the gauges work fine and the
>odometer reads "28603.1".  As with many original
>clusters, it does need to have the trip reset knob
>replaced.  I like Josh's pricing method of "1/2 new"
>so I'm looking to get at least $160 for the unit.  As
>always, I like to post here before doing the ebay
>thing.  For a picture of the cluster:



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 04:18:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Bolt advice

Can't figure out from your description which bolt it is, but:

Do you have Dremel's carbide cutter for your Moto Tool? Costs $8 but
is worth every penny. Very sharp and very hard. Cuts sideways -- if
you have 1/8" clearance around the broken bit you could eat it away
until flush with the original bolt, THEN continue where you left off.
You need a flex extension too. 

When drilling something very hard (like a graded bolt) do not make
these common errors:
- Too fast drill speed
- Too small drill bit, or bit chucked out too far
- Dull drill bit
- Shallow grind drill bit
- Cheap drill bit (made in China)
I've found that lubrication can be counterproductive. Seems to impede
chip removal. I often have better success with extremely slow drill
speed and a dry bit.

I recently drilled several holes in a 3/8" thick cast automobile frame
with an uncoated HSS bit. Took half hour or so per hole (told you my
drill speed was slow!) but the bit survived the experience as sharp as
it began.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> Problem: Broken Bolt
> Location: Outer Edge, Corner of Passenger Head (near jump lead post).
> Condition: Not too bad, Exposed 3/8" of bolt.
> 
> <insert all advised ways to extract a broken bolt>
> 
> Extended Problem: Broken bit in broken bolt
> Condition: VERY bad!
> 
> Yes, I was a bonehead in dealing with a broken bolt and have broken a 
> bit INSIDE the broken bolt.
> 
> I REALLY do not want to remove the head, What can I do? The bolt is 
> snapped off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. Using a small 
> mirror I can see it is tightened down to within about 1/8" from the end 
> of the hole. I would wager there is about 1/4" of material to get 
> through. There is no exposed part of the broken bit or the broken bolt. 
> I can't drill as the bit is in the way, I can't grind as I have found 
> nothing small enough to get in there.
> 
> Mayday!
> 
> Michael
> vin 6067




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 23:24:37 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Removing Intake Manifold

If your talking about the vacuum advance bar in the distributor, 2 screws
take it off the side and it lifts up and out.
John

-----Original Message-----
From: thinkstainless [mailto:stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 8:32 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Removing Intake Manifold

New problem.

Removing the intake manifold. I have been able to move the top part
thats conected to the distributor cap, but when I got benieth it,
theres a metal line/bar that goes to something off the left hand
side. I am at a loss, how do I proceed to get this damn intake off?

Mr. T



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 23:30:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Constant High Idle Speed

Dan
Are you talking about the idle speed motor or the ECU. If it's the idle
speed motor then the microswitch isn't breaking the ground connection and
the switch is may be bad.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dukeofclassiccars [mailto:tswatch_at_dml_mail.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 11:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Constant High Idle Speed


Well, I bought my first DMC about 3 months ago and been spending a
lot of time fixing up the mess of the previous owner.  Unfortunately
I'm stuck on one last problem.  I have a constant high idle speed of
1,900 RPM.  Twice what it should be.








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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 04:32:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Constant High Idle Speed

You could well have an ECU problem. Idle air regulator responds to
it's signals.

If you want to bypass CIS, there's a manual idle speed circuit already
built into the upper air assembly. eMail me off list
(brobertson(at)carolina.net) and I'll explain how to use it. Note that
this is *NOT* a modification -- you simply deactivate CIS and
reactivate the manual circuit that preceded it. Can switch back
whenever you want.

Or you can just crack the throttle plates like an old fashioned
carburetor (a List member is currently idling so with excellent results). 

Note that either non-CIS method will not give you fast idle without
additional hardware (aux air valve).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dukeofclassiccars" <tswatch_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Well, I bought my first DMC about 3 months ago and been spending a 
> lot of time fixing up the mess of the previous owner.  Unfortunately 
> I'm stuck on one last problem.  I have a constant high idle speed of 
> 1,900 RPM.  Twice what it should be.



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