From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1962
Date: Sunday, April 11, 2004 11:32 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Weird Idle
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>

3. Re: ATTN: Michael #2944 (Cooling Fans Won't Turn Off)
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Weird Idle
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Re: ATTN: Michael #2944 (Cooling Fans Won't Turn Off)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Hub Nut Torque?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

7. Re: Hub Nut Torque?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. with all the suspension talk ...
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>

9. angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

10. Re: Weird Idle
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. AW: Weird Idle
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Engine cover latch assembly
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. Re: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Re: Hub Nut Torque?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: New Antenna
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

19. Re: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. RE: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

23. RE: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

24. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: White painted letters on rear bumper
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 13:58:06 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: White painted letters on rear bumper

Your view is sort of an oxymoran in a way,
one of the most attention getting cars ever made, yet trying to go low 
profile?
Personally, I have tried to put the word "Delorean" on every side of the car 
because I get
sick of people asking me "what kind of car is this"?
Now they look straight at the name and ask, "Who makes DeLorean?"
That is, those are the people who are not asking where the Flux Capacitor or 
the cocain is.
I can't win.

Yeah, there is a certain thrill of suspense as you watch people stare and 
try to figure out
what they are seeing, and the overwhelming head nod and mouthing the words 
"oh yeah, Back To The Future!" as they gaze at it.
I see them in the rear view mirror, on cross streets...everywhere.
As people make thier turns from a cross intersection they stare at my car 
like I was
Pam Anderson standing nude on the corner...I am worried that I may actually 
cause a wreck someday!
Flaunting the car is it's greatest asset.
We all know from driving it that it is not the thrill of actually driving it 
as it is the thrill of
showing it off. On the list of cars that perform, it towards the bottom.
Any Vette, Porche, etc. would kick our asses, but they will NEVER win the 
attention this car gets.
I'm sticking with the FLASH.
- Videobob
VIN#5278



>From: "murray fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_charter.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] White painted letters on rear bumper
>Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 10:26:06 -0700
>
>Before I bought My D, 7 years ago, and afterwards for a time I drooled over
>those stainless steel inserts for both the back bumper and the door sills,
>however one day I talked to someone, actually the (then) Pres of the PNW
>DeLorean Club and he said he did not put them on because he liked the car 
>to
>be "dark and mysterious".  



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:34:47 -0500
From: "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_ancira.com>
Subject: Weird Idle

Something strange happened yesterday while driving the car. My idle is
always a bit rough at 750 RPM due to the fact that its not a factory
Delorean motor, it's a Renault that was sold for Delorean. I cant remember
the differences, but it looks almost the same. The fuel lines are metal, not
rubber. Well, yesterday while sitting at a light the idle was high, at 1500
RPM. I revved up the engine, and it dropped back to the normal 750. Then I
came to another light, and it was stuck a 1000RPM. Again, I revved up and it
went back down to 750. I hate to say it, but I liked how smooth it idled at
1500 ha-ha. What could be causing this, and is it something to be concerned
about? Thanks in advance.

Alex Wolf
#4608
www.deloreanowners.com
 




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 20:42:23 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: ATTN: Michael #2944 (Cooling Fans Won't Turn Off)

The system worked fine...ie everything cycled on and off like it 
should no problems until there was some air in the system from 
haveing a new condenser installed.  Radiator, thermostat and water 
pump have been replace within the last couple of years.  

To check to see if the otterstat was working I opened the bleed screw 
and let the coolant drain via small hose into a bucked and replaced 
the missing coolant with cool 50/50 mix.  After putting aobut 1 
gallon in the fan cycled off and the temp gage was lower.  

I was advised to bleed the system via the radiator (passenger side 
top) when the car is stone cold in the morning. There is a 
possibility that that hose may have been removed when the condenser 
was replaced (even though not needed to be removed according to 
Grady)  and the air trapped there will not be removed by bleeding the 
system from the back and can only removed by bleeding from the 
front.  I think this should do it (I will try it Sunday) as this 
would explain how air got into the system in the first place.  

BTW...for the people who questioned...I have the Hervey Fan Fix on my 
car along with a new Otterstat (within the couple of weeks) from 
Hervey as well. 

I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED TO LET YOU KNOW THE OUTCOME OF THIS...

Michael 
VIN#2944




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 21:15:54 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Weird Idle

Hey that's really something!

Bill Robertson has a Renault engine in his too. It seems the P.O. put 
it in. It wasn't wired up properly and the fuel distro had no port 
for the frequency valve!

He was forced to "de-plumb" it. It has no idle regulator or computer, 
no lambda, no frequency valve. It runs very well though. Rob Grady 
ID'd the motor for him and told him that it actually requires higher 
octane gas.

I recommend you ask him questions about your motor.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Something strange happened yesterday while driving the car. My idle 
is
> always a bit rough at 750 RPM due to the fact that its not a factory
> Delorean motor, it's a Renault that was sold for Delorean. I cant 
remember
> the differences, but it looks almost the same. The fuel lines are 
metal, not
> rubber. Well, yesterday while sitting at a light the idle was high, 
at 1500
> RPM. I revved up the engine, and it dropped back to the normal 750. 
Then I
> came to another light, and it was stuck a 1000RPM. Again, I revved 
up and it
> went back down to 750. I hate to say it, but I liked how smooth it 
idled at
> 1500 ha-ha. What could be causing this, and is it something to be 
concerned
> about? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608
> www.deloreanowners.com




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 23:03:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: ATTN: Michael #2944 (Cooling Fans Won't Turn Off)

Not all otterstadts are created equal. When I first installed a
Fanzilla it didn't seem to come on right and took too long for it to
go off. Rob Grady said I should replace the otterstadt with a new one
from him, his works better with his thermostats and Fanzilla. Always
replace the seal with the otterstadt and if the clip is missing it is
alright to just use a strap-tie. NEVER put anything on the seal except
anti-freeze. I thought I was smart and used some silicone. It failed
soon after. I can't speak to how well John H's parts work, I only have
experience with these parts from Rob. If you have to continually bleed
the system and you get air out you have a leak somewhere and the
system will never run right. If the radiator is half full of air (an
exaggeration) then it can only work at 50% efficiency. Even with the
auto bleeder that you can install on the fitting by the thermostat it
can't get all the air out of the radiator. A "tight" system only needs
to be bled once (when you initially fill it). Another possability is
that the car was overheated and you have a blown head gasket putting
combustion gases into the cooling system. Now you can NEVER bleed all
the air out! A simple test can confirm. BTW to test the otterstadt
remove it from the car and put it over the stove in a pot of water
with a continuity meter and a thermometer. Heat the water and note the
temperature it closes at and as it cools the temp it opens.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> The system worked fine...ie everything cycled on and off like it 
> should no problems until there was some air in the system from 
> haveing a new condenser installed.  Radiator, thermostat and water 
> pump have been replace within the last couple of years.  
> 
> > the missing coolant with cool 50/50 mix.  After putting aobut 1 
> gallon in the fan cycled off and the temp gage was lower.  
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 18:43:53 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Hub Nut Torque?

Looking through my manuals I found that the Front Hub Nut should be torqued
to 145 lb-ft and the Rear Hub Nut 270 lb-ft.
 
The nuts on both the front and the rear are 32mm.
 
Why would the torque value differ?
 
Do you know of any other reference for the hub nut torque value?
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 01:20:36 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Torque?

With numbers like that, "as tight as you can get it with a 5-foot 
pipe or an air impact" should about do it. I've never seen a torque 
wrench that goes that high, unless you work on trucks. . . 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Looking through my manuals I found that the Front Hub Nut should be 
torqued
> to 145 lb-ft and the Rear Hub Nut 270 lb-ft.
>  
> The nuts on both the front and the rear are 32mm.
>  
> Why would the torque value differ?
>  
> Do you know of any other reference for the hub nut torque value?
>  
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
> DOC-UK 357 Magnum
> DOA
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 23:25:01 -0400
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>
Subject: with all the suspension talk ...

I did all my front suspension almost a year ago now .
 
Bushings, springs, shocks, wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints .. POR-15 .
the whole nine yards.
 
The springs I decided to go with were the grady setup . I still have not
done the rear shocks, but the front is all finished.   And I noticed a big
difference.   
 
Now. I don't know if there were any chances in his spring design or anything
in the past  BUT I noticed that my car sat a lot higher than others I know
with gradys suspension
 
Anybody else notice this?  The newer grady springs result in the car being
noticeably higher than some of the older setups.
 
 
I guess I just wanted some feedback to see if anybody noticed this, but all
in all I am very pleased with grady's setup
 
 
Ken
005541
www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/> 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 23:58:26 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: angle drive snapped (I think)


Well, as our cars are likely to do... I was out fixing a couple minor things today getting ready for Spring and Summer.  I installed a battery cut-off switch from John Harvey, as well as the rubber shift plate rubber frame grommet.  I start to back up out of my garage, and heard a sharp "snap", like a twig breaking under the tires.  Well, I get about two blocks down the road and realize I have no speedometer.

Rob Grady replaced the upper and lower speedo cables a couple of years ago, but I'm pretty sure he didn't replace the angle drive (hey, Rob, if I'm wrong, let me know!).  Anyway, I'm assuming that that is the likely culprit that I heard snap today.

How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle drive?  Is there anything else I should consider while doing that job?  

Thanks,

-Hank Eskin #1619



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 04:22:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Weird Idle

Volvo factory literature specifies an idle speed of 900 RPM for both E
and F series. Don't know where DeLorean came up with 750, unless it
was for emissions (remember: our cars don't have smog pumps, which
were standard equipment on emissioned Volvo's).

eMail me your block ID numbers off List (brobertson(at)carolina.net)
to verify if the lower half of your engine is indeed Renault Z7V. The
pics you sent earlier of the top half are definitely *NOT* circa 1980
Renault. Note these differences:
- 2 piece upper air assembly (Renault used a single piece casting)
- Cast iron fuel distributor with Lambda (Renault used an aluminum one
without Lambda)
- PCV through the cold start tube (Renault routed PCV through the U pipes)
- Idle speed microswitch (there's no place to mount a microswitch on
Renault's upper air assembly)
- Series 066 CPR with vacuum nipples in the base (Renault used series
038 with one vacuum nipple on top, plus an adjacent fuel dampener)
- Fluoroelastometric lines to the cold start injector and CPR (Renault
used steel lines across the entire engine)

It is possible someone transferred everything north of the heads from
your car's original block, making a hybrid engine. At this time the
only thing I can conclusively identify as Renault are your steel
injector lines.

Do a compression test -- Z7V is 9.5:1, which yields 160-170 PSI.

If the lower half of your engine is indeed Renault, you need to be
running:
- High octane fuel
- Low temp spark plugs
- Potentially less spark advance (send me the number on your ignition
distributor)

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Something strange happened yesterday while driving the car. My idle is
> always a bit rough at 750 RPM due to the fact that its not a factory
> Delorean motor, it's a Renault that was sold for Delorean. I cant
remember
> the differences, but it looks almost the same. The fuel lines are
metal, not
> rubber. Well, yesterday while sitting at a light the idle was high,
at 1500
> RPM. I revved up the engine, and it dropped back to the normal 750.
Then I
> came to another light, and it was stuck a 1000RPM. Again, I revved
up and it
> went back down to 750. I hate to say it, but I liked how smooth it
idled at
> 1500 ha-ha. What could be causing this, and is it something to be
concerned
> about? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Alex Wolf
> #4608
> www.deloreanowners.com




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 04:28:13 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

The hardest part is finding a wrench that fits that big nut. You'll 
need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. Torque spec is very high since it 
holds the spindle i.e. the left front wheel on the car too. 

You will probably have to separate the tie rod end too. With a tie 
rod end puller, not a pickefork. 

First, though, disconnect the cable from the angle drive and make 
sure it will turn freely (and that the speedo needle will jump when 
you turn it) if it's stuck somewhere else you can damage the new 
drive. Once I ran into a lambda counter that got sticky and jammed up 
the cable, but this is pretty rare. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Henry" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
tires.  Well, I get about two blocks down the road and realize I have 
no speedometer.
> 
> Rob Grady replaced the upper and lower speedo cables a couple of 
years ago, but I'm pretty sure he didn't replace the angle drive 
(hey, Rob, if I'm wrong, let me know!).  Anyway, I'm assuming that 
that is the likely culprit that I heard snap today.
> 
> How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle drive?  Is there 
anything else I should consider while doing that job?  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 04:37:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

With Houston's rather affordable replacement angle drive now available
I don't think DeLo speedometers are going to a problem anymore.

The angle drive is quite easy to change. It's nut is also the driver's
spindle nut. 
- Jack up the front end
- Remove the driver's wheel
- Disconnect the lower speedo cable
- Turn loose the nut (32mm)
- Pull the assembly off/out of the spindle
Re-installation is of course "reverse of procedure"

Factory angle drives are *NOT* weathertight. Light weight lubricant
will run out, and water will get in. That's why I recommend packing
with grease rather than oiling. Don't know if Houston's is
weathertight or not.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Henry" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> Well, as our cars are likely to do... I was out fixing a couple
minor things today getting ready for Spring and Summer.  I installed a
battery cut-off switch from John Harvey, as well as the rubber shift
plate rubber frame grommet.  I start to back up out of my garage, and
heard a sharp "snap", like a twig breaking under the tires.  Well, I
get about two blocks down the road and realize I have no speedometer.
> 
> Rob Grady replaced the upper and lower speedo cables a couple of
years ago, but I'm pretty sure he didn't replace the angle drive (hey,
Rob, if I'm wrong, let me know!).  Anyway, I'm assuming that that is
the likely culprit that I heard snap today.
> 
> How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle drive?  Is there
anything else I should consider while doing that job?  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Hank Eskin #1619




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:27:23 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Weird Idle

Alex, your Idle speed micro switch is not being pushed
correctly. Maybe it's just a little setup of the screw pushing
it or the switch is getting harder to push.

Simply test it by playing with the throttle wire in the engine bay.
When you release the spool slowly and the idle stays at 1000 or higher,
then simply push the micro switch by hand and you will see, that idle
will go down to 800.

If your car has a problem with idling at 750-800 then it should be
possible to set it to 900 or so simply by changing a resistor or so
in the idle speed module. I heared of somebody who did this, it shouldn't
be too hard to figure it out.

Elvis & 6548 (somtimes idling at >1000, too)



Something strange happened yesterday while driving the car. My idle is
always a bit rough at 750 RPM due to the fact that its not a factory
Delorean motor, it's a Renault that was sold for Delorean. 



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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 08:44:23 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Engine cover latch assembly

I've been refitting the rear end of my car and I finally got the 
rear closing panel in.  When I went to attach the engine cover latch 
cable, it seemed a little strange.  On the cable assembly, I see a 
nut on the plastic part, but it seems like it doesn't do 
anything???  
Put another way, the cable comes through the closing panel, and 
connects to the latch via the "ball" on the end.  Should there be 
some additional hardware in here to fasten the outer cable housing 
to the closing panel?  If there is, I'm missing it.  I didn't see 
anything in the parts manual, but it seems strange that the engine 
cover cable would just dangle in there like that, and have a nut on 
it that serves no purpose.  It was about 4 months since I removed 
it, so I am a bit forgetful :(


Matt
#1604




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 03:30:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: White painted letters on rear bumper

Bob,
    you are correct in the information about the photo
shoots related to the white lettering.  Here is what I
understand; when the factory was still open,
photographers wanted to get photos of workers and
other people with the rear end of the car.  Why that
was, I don't know.  At any rate, the lettering was
invisible, or next to invisible in the photos, and so,
they painted the rear bumper lettering white so that
it would be visible in photos.  That's just how I
understood it, could be totally off.

                  George DeLorean



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 05:11:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

Hank,

It may have been the plasitc cup that broke...
Although, I am told that the cup usualy breaks as a
result of the angle drive on it's way out.

I have never changed an angle drive, but may have to
soon.  Not sure how hard it is to change, but it looks
like you need to remove the 32mm hub nut to get the
thing apart.  I am wondering if it is also pressed in?

Let us know what you find!

--- Henry <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
<SNIP>
> How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle
> drive?  Is there anything else I should consider
> while doing that job?  
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html



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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 13:45:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Hub Nut Torque?

I agree - the instructions that come with DMCH's new angle drives say 
pretty much the same thing.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>With numbers like that, "as tight as you can get it with a 5-foot 
>pipe or an air impact" should about do it. I've never seen a torque 
>wrench that goes that high, unless you work on trucks. . . 
>
>Dave S
>  
>





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:34:29 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: New Antenna

On Fri, 09 Apr 2004 22:37:20 -0400,
Tom Watkins <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net> wrote:

> I bought a new antenna, one of the same models that are being
> offered on  ebay.  I got mine from a different source but the
> instruction I found  said that it is ok to remove the current
> antenna relay as this new one  has a relay built in.
> I have installed this with the relay out.  I was  just wondering
> if one of our more experienced electrical people can explain the
> funtion of the original relay and would it be a problem if a new
> antenna was hooked up to it

I just replaced my power antanna last week with a generic one from
Hirschmann, a german company. I had to reshape the bracket in the
pontoon a bit and had to take out the relay too...

This relay is responsible for reversing the motion of the mast,
when it gets powered it switches  power to the motor on the antenna.

Out of curiousity I opened up the cover on my new antenna
to indeed find a MUCH smaller relay inside the motor-unit.

I backtraced the wiring and this works the exact same as the outboard
relay on the "original" antenna, but is smaller and makes wiring
a little bit simpler by leaving out one extra wire...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 06:12:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: White painted letters on rear bumper

The photos I saw, the rectangle outline was pained
white.. NOT the letters themselves.



--- George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Bob,
>     you are correct in the information about the
> photo
> shoots related to the white lettering.  Here is what
> I
<SNIP>



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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 13:18:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: White painted letters on rear bumper

There's a local club member here with a very low VIN Car with painted-
in bumper lettering. He has a formal letter from one of the factory 
people at the time explaining the painting for, as someone mentioned, 
a photo shoot at the factory. The lettering is filled in completely 
white. 

Dave 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, George DeLorean 
<phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Bob,
>     you are correct in the information about the photo
> shoots related to the white lettering.  Here is what I
> understand; when the factory was still open,
> photographers wanted to get photos of workers and
> other people with the rear end of the car.  Why that
> was, I don't know.  At any rate, the lettering was
> invisible, or next to invisible in the photos, and so,
> they painted the rear bumper lettering white so that
> it would be visible in photos.  That's just how I
> understood it, could be totally off.
> 
>                   George DeLorean





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 13:14:58 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

Once you get the nut/angle drive off the car, you'll see that the 
drive is held into the nut by a tiny snap ring deep inside the open 
end of the nut. It is possible to dig it our and "save" the drive, 
but now that drives are cheap(er) the thought is just to whack it 
with a hammer and break it off. (I hear people cringing.) You do need 
the nut, those are pretty hard to come by. 

The new drive comes with the retaining ring. 

If you have the patience, it's better to get the snap-ring off becase 
then the drive may be rebuildable. Sometimes you only need to replace 
the drive cable that goes out to the hub. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hank,
> 
> It may have been the plasitc cup that broke...
> Although, I am told that the cup usualy breaks as a
> result of the angle drive on it's way out.
> 
> I have never changed an angle drive, but may have to
> soon.  Not sure how hard it is to change, but it looks
> like you need to remove the 32mm hub nut to get the
> thing apart.  I am wondering if it is also pressed in?
> 
> Let us know what you find!
> 
> --- Henry <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> > 
> <SNIP>
> > How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle
> > drive?  Is there anything else I should consider
> > while doing that job?  





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:27:10 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: White painted letters on rear bumper

Do a search for Joe Murray in the archives.

I met Joe when I was in Ireland several years ago.

Joe was the one who painted the letters.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
DOC-UK 357 Magnum
DOA
 


-----Original Message-----
From: George DeLorean [mailto:phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 4:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] White painted letters on rear bumper


Bob,
    you are correct in the information about the photo
shoots related to the white lettering.  Here is what I understand; when the
factory was still open, photographers wanted to get photos of workers and
other people with the rear end of the car.  Why that was, I don't know.  At
any rate, the lettering was invisible, or next to invisible in the photos,
and so, they painted the rear bumper lettering white so that it would be
visible in photos.  That's just how I understood it, could be totally off.

                  George DeLorean




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:27:10 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

I believe the correct size for the wrench is 32mm.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 10:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: angle drive snapped (I think)


The hardest part is finding a wrench that fits that big nut. You'll 
need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. Torque spec is very high since it 
holds the spindle i.e. the left front wheel on the car too. 

You will probably have to separate the tie rod end too. With a tie 
rod end puller, not a pickefork. 

First, though, disconnect the cable from the angle drive and make 
sure it will turn freely (and that the speedo needle will jump when 
you turn it) if it's stuck somewhere else you can damage the new 
drive. Once I ran into a lambda counter that got sticky and jammed up 
the cable, but this is pretty rare. 

Dave




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:47:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

Probably. but it's pretty unusual to have that in an open end wrench 
in your tool collection. 1-1/4 is very close, maybe slighly tight (a 
good thing when dealing with this much torque).

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I believe the correct size for the wrench is 32mm.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_d...] 
> Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 10:28 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
> 
> 
> The hardest part is finding a wrench that fits that big nut. You'll 
> need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. 




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:48:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: White painted letters on rear bumper

Thanks, I forgot the name. Don Gowler has the note from Joe Murray - 
Don is not active on the list anymore. I've seen the letter because 
he used to carry it around when getting the car judged. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Do a search for Joe Murray in the archives.
> 
> I met Joe when I was in Ireland several years ago.
> 
> Joe was the one who painted the letters.
> 
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
> DOC-UK 357 Magnum
> DOA
>  





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