From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1963
Date: Monday, April 12, 2004 2:38 PM

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Continued: Angle Drive (Replacing Spindle Cable)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Clutch bleeding
From: rbrogren_at_dml_aol.com

3. DeLorean Car Show Magazine Issue 4
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Inlet Air Manifold
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Lowering Advice
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Just got my new DCS Magazine
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

9. sorting out my stainless steel
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

10. Governor Computer
From: "adamjohn_98" <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Inlet Air Manifold
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: Governor Computer
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Fan trouble
From: Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_shaw.ca>

14. Re: Fan trouble
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: Fan trouble
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Angle Drive Nut -- English or Metric?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Re: Fan trouble
From: Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_shaw.ca>

18. Re: Lowering Advice
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. RE: Fan trouble
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

20. direct wire Lockzilla?
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

21. Re: Lowering Advice
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. news from 717 !
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

23. Steering column upper U-joint
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 16:49:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: Angle Drive (Replacing Spindle Cable)

Note that a pressed in plate on the back side will need to be removed
to replace the spindle cable. I was leery to try that on old pot
metal, so I attached my repair to the cable remaining.

Note also that the retaining ring is NOT a snap ring -- you can't
compress it with pliers or snap ring tool. Use a very small and long
straight blade screwdriver to lift one end out of the groove, then
wiggle your way around it. About half way it will pop out on its own.

To the curious: the angle drive is on the OTHER side of the spindle
nut. We're not driving around on wheel spindles that can come loose
with a hammer whack.

1 1/4" wrench fits the nut very well, BTW. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Once you get the nut/angle drive off the car, you'll see that the 
> drive is held into the nut by a tiny snap ring deep inside the open 
> end of the nut. It is possible to dig it our and "save" the drive, 
> but now that drives are cheap(er) the thought is just to whack it 
> with a hammer and break it off. (I hear people cringing.) You do need 
> the nut, those are pretty hard to come by. 
> 
> The new drive comes with the retaining ring. 
> 
> If you have the patience, it's better to get the snap-ring off becase 
> then the drive may be rebuildable. Sometimes you only need to replace 
> the drive cable that goes out to the hub. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Hank,
> > 
> > It may have been the plasitc cup that broke...
> > Although, I am told that the cup usualy breaks as a
> > result of the angle drive on it's way out.
> > 
> > I have never changed an angle drive, but may have to
> > soon.  Not sure how hard it is to change, but it looks
> > like you need to remove the 32mm hub nut to get the
> > thing apart.  I am wondering if it is also pressed in?
> > 
> > Let us know what you find!
> > 
> > --- Henry <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> > > 
> > <SNIP>
> > > How hard of a job is it to replace just the angle
> > > drive?  Is there anything else I should consider
> > > while doing that job?




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:32:19 EDT
From: rbrogren_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding

 It is tough enough to get a hand and arm down there -- and see/feel what you 
are doing and without inadvertently disconnecting some of the hoses and wires 
down there.
.
First check to make sure that you have a metric nipple! Using a SAE wrench on 
an 8mm nipple is not good! (Even an open end 8mm wrench may slip, because you 
can't tell if it is properly engaged.)

I use an 8mm box end wrench (from a ignition wrench set). "Hang it" on the 
nipple and break it loose. Move the wrench so you will have about a 30+ degree 
swing available and then put the bleed hose on the nipple. (If the bleed hose 
has a small enough OD, then you can reposition the wrench as needed.)
Once you have gone through the bleeding process, leave the whole contraption 
(box end wrench and bleed hose) in place until you have started the engine and 
cycled the clutch to verify that it operates correctly! 

Roger
VIN 1075(?)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 13:09:54 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Magazine Issue 4

Well the magazines went out in the mail Saturday about a week ahead of the 
Mid April release we were targeting so they should start arriving by the middle 
to the end of the week.

Inside you will find a renewal form and registration to the car show. You can 
use that or register Online.

The latest issue has more articles than ever and highlights a number of 
people and events that will be going on in Pigeon Forge along with these feature 
articles.

DeLorean Welding Center

Front Facia (how to)

Meeting in the Alps

Project Vixen II

D.A.R.T. Update

THE RAFFLE CAR!!!!!!!!!!! 

>From the Factory

Better Reception

Keeping the Pace (this is a cool article)

Along with 8 more articles.

For those of you Angela followers She is featured in a new Add for P.J. Grady.

In case you have not subscribed to the magaizne we have a number of unique 
Vendor adds that compliments the magazine.  We do not use the Same old adds over 
and over.  Most of  your vendors rotate the adds to be current.  It is 
something we started doing and it seem to be catching on.  You may see some of these 
adds in other magazines as well.  

Each month we have a feature car.

This car does not need to be anything in particular.  It does not need to be 
in perfect condition but it needs to have an active owner who appreciates the 
car and wants to tell us about it.

If you want to submit your car for the Feature Car just send us a letter, 
e-mail, phone call 
and let us know.

One thing that we are going to do is a nuber of article of our experience in 
disassembling and reassembling the DeLorean.  We have taken three down to 
frame and 8 down to bare bones up to  chasis seperation.  These refurbishings are 
extensive and lately have included transmission work as was done on the Raffle 
car.  

We plan to share these with you as we have taken a ton of photos.

Right now we are doing a crumple tube restoration and will probably highlight 
some of this work next month.  We have years of articles on the work we have 
done so there is no danger of running out.  IN  THE FUTURE we will do vinyl 
and leather restoration, door lock replacements, exhaust repairs and upgrades, 
fuel distributor, fuel tank system, chasis restoration, brake system and more.  

The magazine is about you the owners and most of our articles (including tech 
articles) are from a varitey of owners making this a broad based magazine.  
We highlight interesting things individuals do with their cars and try to make 
the magazine entertaining and educational.  As you have seen we accept custom 
modifications (I think Curtis and D-Rex Qualify) in addition to Stock 
restorations.

The format is changing a bit to accomodate this so you may see a few changes 
in the magazine.

We are trying to stay between 11 and 17 articles per issue so there will be 
plenty of room and we feel it is a good buy for the money.  

Again thanks and if your magazine does not arrive in three weeks 
Blame the Post office then give us a call and we will do what we can to get 
you the magazine 

We are going out of a different post office and I think we will have better 
luck. We found that the old machine in the one we used were eating magazines 
the new machine does not.


Well 

See Y'all in Pigeon Forge

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 19:49:31 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Inlet Air Manifold

Happy Easter everyone,
The T piece that I was talking about which sat behind the manifold, 
I replaced with a custom made T that I made myself from copper 
piping, and it works great, no more leak. Now after the reassembly, 
I couldnt get my damn D started, it turns over, and a few times it 
started up, but then immediatly died. After trying the next night I 
was able to get it started after some labor. I noticed that I had 
forgot to re-insert the air inlet pipe which connects to the ??Lower 
Air Casing??, its the part where the distributor caps sits on and 
theres a hole on the left side where this little pipe goes it. I 
reinserted this pipe "Which is what made my car start" but now I 
hear a real loud sucking noise, like an air leak. Is there a seal 
for this pipe that I might have lost? Could letting air bypass that 
pipe cause my car to run real ruff or not even start? I found one 
vacum line in the back, alittle one and I cant find where It goes, 
but I dont think just that little thing could be causing me all 
these problems.

Mr. T.




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:00:42 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

If you get a new drive from Grady ask him to install a new nut for 
you - $25 I think. He puts a nice O-ring in between the drive and 
the nut to take up the slack and provide a seal. The new drive moves 
in the nut after it is tightened for easy greasing, etc. BTW, Bill 
R's idea ( I think it was Bill)of using a floor jack to loosen the 
nut worked. I still had to tap with a hammer to break loose. Be 
careful though - I could see someone busting a washer housing or 
messing up a fender brace.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Once you get the nut/angle drive off the car, you'll see that the 
> drive is held into the nut by a tiny snap ring deep inside the 
open 
> end of the nut. It is possible to dig it our and "save" the drive, 
> but now that drives are cheap(er) the thought is just to whack it 
> with a hammer and break it off. (I hear people cringing.) You do 
need 
> the nut, those are pretty hard 



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 16:38:35 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lowering Advice

Okay, I know that there have been many threads on this topic, but here it 
goes again.   If I were to buy a used set of front springs, cut them down 1.5 or 
2 inches with a Dremel, and put them back on the front of my car, would there 
be any unforseen problems?  Would cutting 1.5 inches off the spring lower the 
front of my car 1.5 inches, or should I cut more?   I just want my front end 
to be a little bit lower, which in my opinion makes the car look sleeker and 
sexier.   I plan on saving my original springs in case I want to return the car 
to stock height.   I don't want it too low, and I don't want to touch the rear 
end, because I think that looks fine the way that it is.   

If you want to email me directly, PRC1216(at)aol.com
Thanks,
Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:59:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: angle drive snapped (I think)

I just this afternoon lubricated my angle drive. I usually use a 15"
adjustable (BIG) wrench but I tried the 1 1/4 open end and it seems to
fit nicely. I had to loosen the big nut because my angle drive
wouldn't turn so I took it off and cleaned it up till the nut turned
on the drive. Now I should be able to turn it to lube it without
loosening the big nut. The origional drive is pretty rinky-dink but if
you keep it lubed up it should last for a while. For all of you out
there you need the bracket that holds the lower cable. If it is
missing it puts more strain on the angle drive. Using a big wrench
makes it easier to tighten the big nut enough.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Probably. but it's pretty unusual to have that in an open end wrench 
> in your tool collection. 1-1/4 is very close, maybe slighly tight (a 
> good thing when dealing with this much torque).
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
> <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > I believe the correct size for the wrench is 32mm.
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_d...] 
> > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 10:28 PM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] Re: angle drive snapped (I think)
> > 
> > 
> > The hardest part is finding a wrench that fits that big nut. You'll 
> > need a 1-1/4" open end wrench.




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:15:28 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Just got my new DCS Magazine

Well I just recieved my new issue of the DCS magazine today and all I can say 
is "wow!".   It is loaded with great St. Patty's day pictures, Pigeon Forge 
info, tech tips, club events, a new DeLorean shop in Chicago, and other great 
articles.   I know I said this last time, but this is the best issue yet, and 
the last issue before Pigeon Forge.   The magazine has a great new logo, and I 
think most owners will benefit from the tech tips outlined in this issue.   If 
you don't subscribe, you are truly missing out.   

I think Ken and Josh deserve a pat on the back for this one.

Patrick 
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 22:39:11 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: sorting out my stainless steel

hi i have a delorean which needs more than just a clean on the 
panels,as its been stored for so long by the preveouse owner its 
obviously had a couple of scratches here and there the scratches are 
gone now as the old owner has removed them, the only problem is when 
you look at the car you can see that where the scratches were its now 
shinyer than the rest of the car and looks patchy.I was a car paint 
sprayer by trade and have thought about going over the whole car with 
either sand paper(keeping the lines straight not a problem).but am 
thinking WHICH GRADE(P PREFIX EUROPEAN}different to american but can 
translate.Or by using a scotch brite pad.or a special rubber like 
soap bar with a graded git imbeded in it.

am i totally off the mark here and should use a totally different 
method or am i along the right lines and if so which method and grade 
etc should i use and can anyone give me any advice or tips which 
might come in handy.

many thanks in advance 

simon




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 22:57:25 -0000
From: "adamjohn_98" <adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Governor Computer

Hello,
Thanks to everyone who replied to my other post! Now, my mechanic and 
I need some help troubleshooting the governor computer. I think it is 
an electrical problem because it never shifts automatically at any 
point(you must rev the engine to 5100-5300 rpm to shift to 2nd gear). 
Any information regarding the removal and troubleshooting of this 
governor computer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Adam
adamjohn_98_at_dml_yahoo.com




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 01:30:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Inlet Air Manifold

You probably don't have that pipe seated all the way. The end that 
you inserted is tapered and will leak unless completely in there. 

When you had the pipe completely un-installed the air leak was about 
a 3/4" dia hole. Which is certainly enough to keep the engine from 
running.

Look at the back of the two big square intake runners. There are 
vacuum hoses off the back of each of those, in all your working 
around the area you may have knocked something else loose. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Happy Easter everyone,
> The T piece that I was talking about which sat behind the manifold, 
> I replaced with a custom made T that I made myself from copper 
> piping, and it works great, no more leak. Now after the reassembly, 
> I couldnt get my damn D started, it turns over, and a few times it 
> started up, but then immediatly died. After trying the next night I 
> was able to get it started after some labor. I noticed that I had 
> forgot to re-insert the air inlet pipe which connects to the ??
Lower 
> Air Casing??, its the part where the distributor caps sits on and 
> theres a hole on the left side where this little pipe goes it. I 
> reinserted this pipe "Which is what made my car start" but now I 
> hear a real loud sucking noise, like an air leak. Is there a seal 
> for this pipe that I might have lost? Could letting air bypass that 
> pipe cause my car to run real ruff or not even start? I found one 
> vacum line in the back, alittle one and I cant find where It goes, 
> but I dont think just that little thing could be causing me all 
> these problems.
> 
> Mr. T.




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 01:34:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Governor Computer

Go to the 

http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm

section, print out everything in the automatic transmission section. 
If you need more than that let me know. 

dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "adamjohn_98" <adamjohn_98_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello,
> Thanks to everyone who replied to my other post! Now, my mechanic 
and 
> I need some help troubleshooting the governor computer. I think it 
is 
> an electrical problem because it never shifts automatically at any 
> point(you must rev the engine to 5100-5300 rpm to shift to 2nd 
gear). 
> Any information regarding the removal and troubleshooting of this 
> governor computer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
> Adam
> adamjohn_98_at_dml_y...




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 19:40:42 -0600
From: Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_shaw.ca>
Subject: Fan trouble

Hi Everyone,

Hope you can help. This is my first post to this group although I' ve learned a great deal from you all by lurking. Hopefully
you can offer some suggestions.

My problem is the common one where the fans will not come on automaically. They will come on only if I use a jumper at the otterstat or if I turn on the AC. I have tried two different (new) otterstats from two different vendors. The otterstat is pointed downwards and I have manually bled the system at the water pump and the upper right  radiator location. The pipe in which the otterstat is located is angled upwards towards the rear, so presumably any air should rise above the otterstat. I have also installed a Fanzilla, new thermostat, self bleeding kit, a new temperature guage and sender and the fluid in the fill tank is well above the hose connection point. I have not found any leaks in the system. When driving, the temperature guage will rise well above the point at which the fans should turn on, if I turn on the AC, the fans kick in and the temperature drops. My next plan is to drain the system completely and refill it. What else may I have missed ?

Thanks for your help,

Jim Hodgson
VIN 3029 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 02:12:38 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Fan trouble

How hot did you let it get? It's probably working normally. The gauge 
is not very accurate, in my car(s) the fans come on just below the 
220 mark. It can take quite a while in cool weather, and if the car 
is moving, and it's below 80 degF out they <<never>> come on.

Start the car and let it idle. You are not in trouble until the 
needle gets past 220.

Dave


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Hope you can help. This is my first post to this group although I' 
ve learned a great deal from you all by lurking. Hopefully
> you can offer some suggestions.
> 
> My problem is the common one where the fans will not come on 
automaically. They will come on only if I use a jumper at the 





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 02:33:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fan trouble

Jumper or connect the two wires at the otterstat. Do the fans come 
on? If they do - then the otterstat is not activating the fans for 
one of several reasons including a bad otterstat. You should check 
the temperature of the coolant pipe at the otterstat with a temp gun 
to monitor heat of coolant at otterstat. If they do not come on when 
jumpered then you have a wiring problem you need to trace down.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Hope you can help. This is my first post to this group although I' 
ve learned a great deal from you all by lurking. Hopefully
> you can offer some suggestions.
> 
> My problem is the common one where the fans will not come on 
automaically. They will come on only if I use a jumper at the 
otterstat or if I turn on the AC. I have tried two different (new) 
otterstats from two different vendors. The otterstat is pointed 
downwards and I have manually bled the system at the water pump and 
the upper right  radiator location. The pipe in which the otterstat 
is located is angled upwards towards the rear, so presumably any air 
should rise above the otterstat. I have also installed a Fanzilla, 
new thermostat, self bleeding kit, a new temperature guage and 
sender and the fluid in the fill tank is well above the hose 
connection point. I have not found any leaks in the system. When 
driving, the temperature guage will rise well above the point at 
which the fans should turn on, if I turn on the AC, the fans kick in 
and the temperature drops. My next plan is to drain the system 
completely and refill it. What else may I have missed ?
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Jim Hodgson
> VIN 3029 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 03:01:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Nut -- English or Metric?

A 1 1/4" does fit well, doesn't it. Makes me wonder if the angle drive
nut truly is 32mm that we're xRef'ing to English, or if in fact it
could be the other way around. Being manufactured in Great Britain, it
would not be unheard of to use a non metric fastener. Girling for
example used English hydraulic fittings, not metric. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I just this afternoon lubricated my angle drive. I usually use a 15"
> adjustable (BIG) wrench but I tried the 1 1/4 open end and it seems to
> fit nicely. I had to loosen the big nut because my angle drive
> wouldn't turn so I took it off and cleaned it up till the nut turned
> on the drive. Now I should be able to turn it to lube it without
> loosening the big nut. > 






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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:14:43 -0600
From: Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11_at_dml_shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: Fan trouble

Dave,

The  guage will get as high as 220 if I let it. I would shut it down at that
point
for fear of overheating it. Today it was just 68 F. and the needle got to
within a needles width of 220,
then I turned on the AC and it cooled down. The coolong system seems to be
in good shape, the vehicle has 7400 miles but appears to have been well
maintained bythe PO.

Thanks,
Jim



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 8:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Fan trouble


> How hot did you let it get? It's probably working normally. The gauge
> is not very accurate, in my car(s) the fans come on just below the
> 220 mark. It can take quite a while in cool weather, and if the car
> is moving, and it's below 80 degF out they <<never>> come on.
>
> Start the car and let it idle. You are not in trouble until the
> needle gets past 220.
>
> Dave
>
>





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 03:23:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering Advice

Use the thin (unreinforced) cutting discs. They slice through the
springs more than twice as quickly as the thicker ones. You'll snap a
bunch of them as the cutting angle changes. You may also find that
their diameter is just a hair too small to cut completely through --
simply pop the remaining piece with a cold chisel. A flex extension is
much easier to manuever than the Moto Tool itself (for all operations,
not just this one).

I cut mine on the car so I could repeatedly raise and lower the front
end as I cut 1/4 coil increments until the desired height was reached
(gap between the tires and wheel wells matched the rear). Seem to
remember it was 1.5 coils.

Notice that the angle of the coils matches the angle of the lower
control arms: rotate your cut ends to the outside center of the LCA
bowls, and the coils will hug them perfectly around to the inside
center before spiraling up & out. Drivers side will use the bowl
towards the rear of the car, passenger side will use the bowl towards
the front.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Okay, I know that there have been many threads on this topic, but
here it 
> goes again.   If I were to buy a used set of front springs, cut them
down 1.5 or 
> 2 inches with a Dremel, and put them back on the front of my car,
would there 
> be any unforseen problems?  Would cutting 1.5 inches off the spring
lower the 
> front of my car 1.5 inches, or should I cut more?   I just want my
front end 
> to be a little bit lower, which in my opinion makes the car look
sleeker and 
> sexier.   I plan on saving my original springs in case I want to
return the car 
> to stock height.   I don't want it too low, and I don't want to
touch the rear 
> end, because I think that looks fine the way that it is.   
> 
> If you want to email me directly, PRC1216(at)aol.com
> Thanks,
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 22:08:26 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Fan trouble

It could be a stuck thermostat. However your statement that using the A/C
switch to turn on the fans brought the temperature down makes me doubt that.
With a stuck thermostat and very little flow to through the system, the
otterstat couldn't get enough hot water flow to activate the fans, but if
that was the case activating the fans wouldn't do much to bring down the
engine temp anyway.

Gary

IN2TIME




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 11:03:52 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: direct wire Lockzilla?


After I installed my battery cut-off switch this weekend, I now have entirely disabled my Lockzilla Remote (it's obvious, I know - but I didn't realize this before - duh!).  

Anyway, how would people recommend I direct power Lockzilla and the door locks (but nothing else) so that I can still use the Remote?

thanks,

-Hank #1619



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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 14:17:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering Advice

I thought of another disadvantage to lowering the vehicle height. At
one of our Spring Events sessions we tried to raise a member's car on
the lift. (It was Dan D's car). Not only did he lower it but he also
added side effects. We almost tore them off getting the car onto the
lift. Just something to remember before you go lowering your car. What
looks good on your smooth level driveway doesn't live in the real
world. On the subject of cutting springs to lower them at least cuting
them with a cutting wheel is better than a torch. You aren't softening
them up. The problem is as you shorten the spring you really should
change the spring "rate". If you don't the car will bottom out easier,
there is less spring and it is too soft. If when you cut the spring
and you do not get the angle right then it won't sit right in the
perch. This can cause the perch to wear or the end of the spring to
bend or break. Now that you can buy the "correct" springs to lower the
car most everyone is in agreement that it is a bad idea to cut the
springs if you insist on lowering.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Use the thin (unreinforced) cutting discs. They slice through the
> springs more than twice as quickly as the thicker ones. You'll snap a
> bunch of them as the cutting angle changes. You may also find that
> their diameter is just a hair too small to cut completely through --
> simply pop the remaining piece with a cold chisel. A flex extension is
> much easier to manuever than the Moto Tool itself (for all operations,
> not just this one).
> 
> I cut mine on the car so I could repeatedly raise and lower the front
> end as I cut 1/4 coil increments until the desired height was reached
> (gap between the tires and wheel wells matched the rear). Seem to
> remember it was 1.5 coils.
> 
> 




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 15:46:48 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: news from 717 !

Hi !
VIN 717 finally found a new owner here in France, a friend of mine. 
I added some new pics in the photo section, after cleaning 10 years 
of dust. Seems like the car was seized at it's arrival in France 
for ...drug traffic !! It's not a joke. Now we understand that the 
Columbian license plates were no mistake.......
Raphael




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:10:10 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Steering column upper U-joint

After pulling out the steering rack thinking that was what was causing 
the very sticky steering, I decided to pull out the lower column shaft 
to clean and lube it. I discovered that the upper half of the the upper 
U-joint was seized up. No wonder the thing was such a bear to steer.

  After soaking it with WD-40, giving it a few wonks with a hammer and 
about 10 minutes of frustration I got it to break free. For the next 
hour i worked it back and forth soaking it with oil every few minutes 
and got it to move much more freely but not nearly as free as the rest 
of the joints. For now, I have it soaking in a jar of oil until I can 
work on it again next weekend.

Does anyone have any ideas on getting this back to the way it should 
be. I can't see any way to pull the joint apart to really clean and 
lube it and I hate the thought of having to spend $364 for a new 
shaft/u-joint .

Phil Priestley
Vin#2105




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