From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1969
Date: Saturday, April 17, 2004 10:06 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Transmission oil
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Odd Hose
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. RE: Odd Hose
From: "Michael Fischer" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>

4. Re: D-1 Again
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

5. Re: Play in Steering Wheel
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Angle Drive Failure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Manifest 10
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

8. Car Shows
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. No ex-employees ?
From: "David Thompson" <oneyogi2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Transmission oil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: DMCH's Engine Upgrade
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

12. Re: Re: Deep Cycle
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

13. Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: D-1 Again
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Mid-Atlantic Club Spring Social - RSVP
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

16. Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. RE: Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

18. Jacking it up.
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

19. gas cap
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: DeLorean on Cold Case Show
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

21. No Start problem
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. Re: Jacking it up.
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. catalytic converter question
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: D-1 Again
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Car Shows you forgot something
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:51:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission oil

75W90 Gear oil. Synthetic is better but will also accentuate any 
leakage.

Just under a gallon - buy 4 quarts. And something to pumpt in in with.
Remove te filler plug before you drain it.

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   This might be a dumb question. But what oil viscosity should I 
use 
> to replace my transmission fluid? I want to drain the oil out of my 
> manual transmission and put new oil in. Also, how much oil does the 





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:50:55 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Odd Hose

Probably the windsheild squirter. If you push the "squirt" button 
you'll probably get wet. It goes up to  a feed-thru about the center 
of the cowl and feeds the right wiper. If you look from outside, find 
the hose that goes to the right wiper.

It's a very loose fit, but if you cut the end off it will be a very 
tight fit. You may have to heat it up to get it to go back on the 
plastic nipple.

There is also a hose in that area that feeds the heater mode switch, 
but it's usually black. Unless someone changed it.

Dave--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alex Wolf" <alex_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I was cleaning the car today and noticed a hose that was hanging 
below
> the glove box that shouldn't have been. It is a clear hose, coming 
from
> behind the radio, and its held in place by a bracket that attaches 
to
> the hose that runs the AC to the door. 




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:01:15 -0600
From: "Michael Fischer" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: RE: Odd Hose

This is quite likely the windsheild washer fluid hose. No, don't laugh,
it's a clear hose, and yes, it runs inside the passenger compartment.

I found this the hard way, I was trying to figure out why my windsheild
sprayer wasn't working .. And ended up pumping a gallon on fluid onto
the passenger floor carpeting.

Put a bucket or something under it; and run the windshild sprayer (wet
the windshield or life the blades to prevent scratches)  see if you
catch fluid.

If so, it's that sprayer line; if not .. Well someone else on the list
might speak up.

Here's some tips on reattaching the sprayer line:

Getting it back on is a challenge, the sprayer hose nipple is threaded,
but I doubt they threaded then right at the factory, probably just
slipped them on.  So what I did was take a length of small vacuum line,
and a double-ended hose barb.  After removing the sprayer nipple (and
the ribbed cowling around it for easier access) I feed this line down
into opening;  then hooked the barb to the clear hose inside the
passenger compartment (helps to be flexible) then fished the line back
up through the opening slowly. 

You can then thread the clear line back onto the nipple, and reinstall
everything.

Mike
#17106


-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Wolf [mailto:alex_at_dml_ancira.com] 
Sent: April 15, 2004 9:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Odd Hose


I was cleaning the car today and noticed a hose that was hanging below
the glove box that shouldn't have been. It is a clear hose, coming from
behind the radio, and its held in place by a bracket that attaches to
the hose that runs the AC to the door. Can someone tell me where this
little hose goes?

Alex Wolf
#4608
www.deloreanowners.com  




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:07:07 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: D-1 Again

The DeLorean is not quite a free market vehicle.  The potential 
return for a remanufactured part or redesigned part is 
vanishingly small compared to other vehicles.  Typical 
market dynamics don't hold in that kind of situation.  For
example, if I was going to make some tooling for a left
front fender, you can bet I would pick a Jeep Cherokee
or a Toyota Camry over a DeLorean just based on the potential 
return on investment.

What happens is that small parts operations look for
"good enough" parts that can be adapted to work in the 
DeLorean and sold for a small profit inside the margins
available to the established vendors.  The engineering is
sometimes suspect and the testing is typically not 
statistically significant enough to say anything about the 
long term viability of the part.  In short, you pay 
your money and you take your chances.  

Price isn't the only variable.

--
Mike





>  That's one of the most absurd things I've ever read. Just because the DeLorean 
> is a rare car doesn't mean that the vendors are obligated to treat their 
> customers like crap. 
>  
>  In fact, letting the vendors stick it to the consumers is the surest way to 
> kill the car. In a free market economy, and yes the DeLorean is part of a free 
> market economy, it is competition that drives such things as advances in 
> technology that will make the DeLorean more reliable, refinements in engineering 
> that make parts less costly, and other such things that can only lengthen the 
> longevity of the car.
>  



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:53:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Play in Steering Wheel

There is nothing "magical" about finding the source of play. Jack up
the front end and while someone holds the steering wheel tight grab
one of the tires and shake it side-to-side. Look for what moves and
what doesn't move. The usual suspects are the tie rod ends, wheel
bearings, rack, u-joints, and ball joints. Also check tire pressure. A
Delorean usually does have a very tight steering, it adds to the
feeling of being able to point it EXACTLY where you want.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mikepolzin" <MPolzin_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi all, its been awhile since I have posted here. But now that the 
> northern weather is finally broken, I am back at trying to get my 
> cars whipped into shape for summer.
> 
> 
> Mike Polzin




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:58:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Failure

Bearing grease is not the best lubricant for speedo cables. It causes
a lot of drag. The better choice is "speedometer cable lubricant"
which is just a very light oil with graphite. You should be able to
get a small tube of it in any large auto parts store for a couple of
dollars. Use it sparingly and it will be enough for a long time. You
also need to have the lower cable support bracket. If it is missing or
broken the speedo cable will have an extra bend in it which makes life
harder for the angle drive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I am curious as to who out there has installed one of DMCH's new angle
> drives, and had it fail quickly.
> I am curious as to rather or not it was something other than the 




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:09:31 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Manifest 10

> NOTE - between Wednesday night 4/14 and Thursday morning 4/15 there
> were a number of messages that were moderated thru and have never
> appeared on the list or via email.

Cyberglitches - gotta love 'em ;)  I'd really like to pose this question 
again in that case. 

  On the DeLorean Production Chronology of the FAQ, can anyone 
tell me what "Manifest 10" means under the Notes column?  

Can anyone, too, suggest a mechanic in Tucson who might be able 
to look at a potential DeLo for me?  

Thanks any help.........................LP



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:16:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Car Shows

Some upcoming car shows:
Sunday April 18 NY auto show with the Lotus Club outside
Saturday May 1 Spring Social _at_dml_ P J Grady's
Saturday May 16 Upper Saddle River NJ Rusty Relics
June 5-6 Greenwich Conn. Greenwich Concours *
June 12 Touch Of England _at_dml_ Hohokus, NJ
June 19 Bethleham, PA Concours (and PF) *

If anyone is interested in either attending these events or bringing
their Delorean contact me for more info. It is always good to try to
get our Deloreans presented at these prestigous events. It keeps the
cars in the public's mind in a good way. Many people think that they
don't see Deloreans because you can't get parts and none of them run
anymore.
* Means you must be "invited" to bring your car (not PF).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:17:21 -0000
From: "David Thompson" <oneyogi2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: No ex-employees ?

Hello again all I posted a message about a month ago looking for any 
ex-Delorean employees and didn't get much of a response so I thought 
I would ask again. I'm particulary interested in talking to Joe 
Black who was the mechanic shop foeman at Delorean USA QAC center in 
Santa Ana Ca. There was also a Ferrari trained mechanic there by the 
name of Mike Beck. Both of these men were excellent Delorean 
mechanics and I was wondering if their still part of the Delorean 
Community. Thanks All 




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:04:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission oil

The right oil for the automatic trans is Dexron-Mercon Type III. DO
NOT OVERFILL! The right oil for the final drive is 85w-90 gear oil in
the separate resovoir for the final drive. Refer to the Workshop
Manual for drain, refill, and checking procedures. For the manual
trans the transmission AND final drive share the same oil. Use 85w-90
gear oil. Some owners like to use synthetic. They claim it makes
shifting when cold easier. The capacities are also in the Workshop
Manual in the General section.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   This might be a dumb question. But what oil viscosity should I use 
> to replace my transmission fluid? I want to drain the oil out of my 
> manual transmission and put new oil in. Also, how much oil does the 
> Delorean Tranny hold?
>   Thanks,
>      Kramer
>      ~10610




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 15:02:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH's Engine Upgrade

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004, Robert Moseley wrote:

> I am wondering who out there has had it done, did you do your engine
> or get the new "crate" engine, what do you think of the work,

I went for the crate engine.  At a $1500 difference on a fairly expensive 
upgrade, it seemed a no brainer to me.

My old engine hadn't been treated really well and had a knocking problem I 
was never ever to solve, but this obviously solved it.  :)

I got DMCH to let me haul off the old engine, too, so now I have a spare 
for almost everything on the engine.

> how long did they take to do the work, and do you feel it was worth it.

It took very little time, but since I'm local, I was able to drive the car 
over there at a time they were able to do the job, instead of ship it and 
wait for an opening.  It took a couple of weeks.

I am pleased with the engine.  As others have said, it is rather loud, and 
I honestly wouldn't mind seeing DMCH offer an alternate muffler option for 
it, because I know there are very high flowing mufflers that are a lot 
quieter.  But it's not a deal breaker.

-andrew
 #4115



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 15:04:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Deep Cycle

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004, dcsj4465 wrote:

> Do NOT put a Deep cycle battery in your car. The reason is that a 
> Deep cycle battery lacks the ability to provide high cold cranking 
> amps to spin your starter.

Hogwash.  I have an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle battery in my car, and it 
never ever has a problem turning over.  The Optima battery also recovers 
to proper voltage in about half the time of my old Die Hard battery.

I have not had a single battery-related issue with my Optima, and I would 
not hesitate to buy another one.

-andrew
 #4115



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:04:10 -0000
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle

I have recently bought an angle drive from PJ Grady for $60.  This one already has a big 
bronze nut installed.  All I have to do is remove the old angle drive assembly and install 
the new one.   I can do all this within 1/2 hour.  Am I missing something?

rendy #4220





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:50:38 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: D-1 Again

In most cases you can get just about any part under the sun from any 
vendor you choose, and I can see the argument about a lot of owners 
trying to get the best deal, but at the expense of time and energy of 
the vendors, whoever they may be.  But along with Michael and in fact 
Tom who wrote the original message, and myself along with countless 
(well mabye not countless) but the other owners who arnt anywhere 
near a day's drive from a vendor, we are up a creek.  Here in Maine 
(and way up there) I will have to rely totaly on this list and my 
mechanical skills which isnt nothing to brag about.  Its a double-
fold curse to own such a magnificent exotic.  But yes, if a torsion 
bar goes, where you going to get it?  There is only one place I know 
of, and its not going to be easy to get.  But if you cant get ahold 
of a part, what are you going to do?  I know DMC Houston/Hubble (i 
cant keep track) is looking into making that specific part, but it 
will probley take a while before they become available.  But as 
consumers we all have to take a look at our nag factor and try to 
eliminate it as much as possible.  It is a tiny community, and we 
need every doorpannel or window switch out there available to keep 
these automobiles going strong.

Tom Porter
Northern Maine
Vin... 'real soon'


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Michael M <kenshin_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I agree with Tom on not pissing them off, and from what I can tell 
most the vendors prices are the same + or - a few bucks



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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:00:03 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Club Spring Social - RSVP

If you are planning on attending the Mid-Atlantic Club Spring social it
is important that you please send an e-mail to
springsocial_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com indicating a head count (you and
guest(s)) so that we may properly plan for the event that day!

For more event details, please see the club website:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#spring

Also, remember to bring your $15 to join/renew your membership to the
club.  ;)

Thanks,  and hope to see you all there!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 21:04:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle

My reply to Bob's post apparently got lost in the ether...

The angle drive nut retaining ring isn't hard to remove. I popped mine
out 3 times as various repairs to the factory unit were attempted
(repair #3 is still going strong BTW). The method:

- Use two 1/8" straight blade screwdrivers, as long as possible
- Use good light (the ring is hard to see)
- Catch a cut end with one screwdriver and pry out of its groove. This
screwdriver remains in place thereafter
- Slide the other screwdriver next to the first, under the ring of course
- Wiggle the second screwdriver around the ring, popping the ring out
of its groove. As soon as you get half way round, it will pop the rest
of the way out on its own

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the technical "tip" on how to remove the nut on the angle 
> drive.



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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:30:30 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle

Joe & Bob,

Since both of you asked about angle drive nuts I just want to mention that
we've had these made up and normally recommend to owners that we install one
on their new angle drive before shipping. Doing this eases installation and
allows you to save the old assembly for rebuilding should it ever become
necessary. The nut sells for (105027G) $22.50 and the angle drive costs the
same as DMCH's. We are considering remaking the old weatherproofing kit up
as well and would like people to e-mail us privately if they are interested.

Thank you,

Rob Grady



-----Original Message-----
From: joeyoseppi [mailto:joeyoseppi_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Subject: [DML] Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle

Bob,

Thanks for the technical "tip" on how to remove the nut on the angle 
drive.



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:36:11 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Jacking it up.

Cn the D be jacked up at the rear at some central point so both wheels come 
off the ground at once?

Thank you,

Dave & 6530



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:09:10 -0000
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: gas cap

Hi 

I need to get a new (locking) gas gap for my #4220.  I don't mind getting one from one of 
the Delorean vender, but I can get one locally, it would be better.  Does any one which is 
the right one?  Either locking or no-lock version is fine with me.

thanks!

rendy




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:28:35 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: DeLorean on Cold Case Show

I saw that preview also...about 1/4 of a second the car is shown opening
its door in the rain.  My wife totally missed it.  I had to back up the
tivo to prove it ot her!



-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Mueller [mailto:scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 9:36 PM
To: scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean on Cold Case Show


This Sunday, on CBS, will be a Cold Case episode which will have a
DeLorean in it.
 
I just saw the preview.
 
Scott


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 22:43:25 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: No Start problem

Again my car fails to start. I fixed the electrical problem but now it
seems no fuel is injecting into the engine. I have fuel inside the
distributor, and sometimes when I try to start it-it runs for a few
seconds and cuts out. I checked my lines over and over again but I
can't find anything unusual. Its been a few months since its been
started and I upgraded to the stainless lines. I can pull an injector
out of the engine and see when I crank that nothing sprays out. Is the
problem within the distributor? I did take it off of the engine while
I was working perhaps that caused some kind of problem-maybe its
missing something frome taking it off? Thanks for your help guys-Dan
Benedek #5003




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:13:34 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Jacking it up.

In a message dated 4/16/04 6:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Cn the D be jacked up at the rear at some central point so both wheels come 
> off the ground at once?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Dave & 6530

You can jack from the engine cradle as long as you have a floor jack low 
enough and a board between the frame and jack.  my jack is somewhat awkward so i 
have to put it under the frame, remove the jack handle, and put a much shorter 
pipe into the jack to pump it up and lift.  remember to use jack stands on 
either side of the floor jack once you are ready to get under it.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 00:12:31 -0000
From: "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: catalytic converter question

Hi 

I just have a smog check done and my D failed.  I am located in California. This test was 
done at "test only" center, and the car was put on dyno.  The test results are as follows:

RPM=2292 (at 15mph)
HC_MAX = 141     HC_GP=331           HC_MEAS = 161
NOX_MAX = 1148   NOX_GP   = 2270     NOX_MEAS = 2211

RPM=2408 (at 25mph)
HC_MAX = 113      HC_GP=263           HC_MEAS = 156
NOX_MAX = 978     NOX_GP   = 2070     NOX_MEAS = 2276

The test technician suggested a new catalytic converter.  My questions are

(1) Do I really need a new catalytic converter?  I thought the catalytic converter is not 
suppose to go bad.  It is usually a sign of something else went bad.

(2) If I remember correctly, I don't thik the catalytic converter for the '81 delorean is 
designed to remove NOX.  Am I right?   If that is true, changing the catalytic converter 
would not reduce the NOX level.

(3) Could the high HC level cause by the carbon deposite in the engine?  After all, this is a 
22 years old car.    Or it is caused by dirty fuel injectors.

(4) One of my friend suggest I change my catalytic converter to a OBD II (spelling?) which is 
design to remove NOX.    He says I just need to get it retrofit to my car.  What do you 
think?

Thanks!

rendy




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 21:59:20 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: D-1 Again

I disagree with part of this discussion.

As a manufacturer of parts I have made a number of parts for the Delorean and 
many of you have them in your cars.  There are various types of tooling that 
can be built.  Depending on the type of part and the anticipated use you can 
usually find a decent compromise in tooling.

Since many parts are low in volume (less than 1000 required) there are a 
number of prototype tools that can be made. Manufacturers make the prototypes for 
low volume decent quality and reasonable costs for evalutions.  

An example is the mode switch diaprham.  All I heard was how difficult it was 
and that the stock is out.  Tool took a month to make and now you all have 
all the parts you will ever need.  The vendors selling them split the cost and 
are holding the inventories.  

They have done this for you for years.  Eating the cost of the low production 
for long term service and parts availability. Payback on this part is lousy.

As far as the supposedly hard to find front left fender which I would be 
happy to sell one to anyone  who needs one,   I thought a few years ago that the 
supply was runnning low and being involved in door stampings had a tool quoted 
for the left front fender.

The tool could make up to 100 parts ( a lifetime supply in this market) At a 
price below the current selling price.
Why didn't I make one 
Because we don't need one.
It may be hard to find but you can find them. The money needs to be spent on 
things we need.

I think the vendors do a good job in either manufacturing parts or holding 
inventories.  No vendor has ever had a problem buying the necessary quantity I 
needed to make you parts.
As a result I rarely sell these parts direct but you can count on your 
vendors carrying them.

The dollars involved are not small in a lot of cases and some of them have 
lousy payback but they keep the inventory for everyone.

I enjoy making parts and will continue to do so if the vendors cannot do it.  
Stephen for one has lately invested heavily in parts that were getting 
scarce.  That costs money.

It is why I go to his events and show my support 
I also support Rob, Don, and Dave along with others.
And I have to say they support me as well.

Bottom line 

If we support each other we will have what we need when we need it no matter 
where we live

I have had my say 

Thanks vendors

Ken


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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 22:02:09 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Shows you forgot something

In a message dated 4/16/2004 4:51:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:
Some upcoming car shows:
Sunday April 18 NY auto show with the Lotus Club outside
Saturday May 1 Spring Social _at_dml_ P J Grady's
Saturday May 16 Upper Saddle River NJ Rusty Relics
June 5-6 Greenwich Conn. Greenwich Concours *
June 12 Touch Of England _at_dml_ Hohokus, NJ
June 19 Bethleham, PA Concours (and PF) *


I THINK YOU FORGOT ONE ON JUNE 17-19 
A small show in Pigeon Forge  :-) LOL


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