From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1971
Date: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:45 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: catalytic converter question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Re: gas cap
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

3. Travel to Pigeon Forge warning
From: Jim <>

4. Attention PJGradys
From: "William Bowie" <>

5. RE: catalytic converter question
From: "Darkstar" <>

6. RE: No Start problem
From: "PJ Grady" <>

7. Re: catalytic converter question
From: "Roland Smith" <>

8. Re: catalytic converter question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

9. Re: Re: Manifest 10
From: "Lauren" <>

10. Funniest Things Heard
From: "thinkstainless" <>

11. New to Delorean
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <>

12. Unused Wires in Door Harness?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <>

13. Big Oops
From: "Alex Wolf" <>

14. Parting with my D
From: "Alex Wolf" <>

15. Re: Dyno Results - Grand National Delorean
From: "d_rex_2002" <>

16. Re: No Start problem
From: "TalksToGod" <>

17. Re: catalytic converter question
From: "TalksToGod" <>

18. May Tech Session - Western PA - Pittsburgh RSVP
From: "dplakosh2" <>

19. Book search
From: "Roland Smith" <>

20. RPM to MPH
From: "TalksToGod" <>

21. Sonic Delorean Promo?
From: "thinkstainless" <>

22. Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle
From: "content22207" <>

23. Re: Deep Cycle
From: "dcsj4465" <>

24. Re: catalytic converter question
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

25. Re: Transmission oil
From: "jmlaux83" <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 16:05:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: catalytic converter question

You are correct, the catalytic converter cannot affect the NOx level.
You probably need a tune-up including cleaning the fuel injectors. I
would check the timing and make sure the mechanical AND vacuum advance
are working. Also you should use fresh gasoline of at least 91 octane
when you go for the test. Don't go on old, stale, low octane gas, it
mattters. Some of the additives are very volitile and evaporate out if
the gas is old so you should either burn it off or drain and refill
with fresh. Change the air filter too. You don't say how many miles
are on the car. You should check the Lambda circuit to be sure it is
functioning properly, you might need a new O2 sensor. After you tune
it up you should drive it a little before going for the test to burn
up all the HC remaining in the converter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi 
> I just have a smog check done and my D failed.  I am located in
California. This test was 
> done at "test only" center, and the car was put on dyno.  The test
results are as follows:
> RPM=2292 (at 15mph)
> HC_MAX = 141     HC_GP=331           HC_MEAS = 161
> NOX_MAX = 1148   NOX_GP   = 2270     NOX_MEAS = 2211


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 16:10:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: gas cap

Be careful in picking out a gas cap. When I went for inspection the
inspector had a difficult time testing the cap, it seemed none of the
adapters he had would fit properly so I am guessing it is a bit
unusual. As it turns out now in New Jersey they cannot fail you for
the gas cap because of this. The best bet would be to go to one of the
"D" venders so you know you are getting the "right" one. The wrong one
could allow fumes to escape or worse, if the tank is full it could
leak  gasoline while you are driving. If it sticks up too high it
could hit the hood too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> With the gas flap hood I have the locking gas cap.  I have been 
> considering just replacing it with a standard cap, 


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 12:13:06 -0400
From: Jim <>
Subject: Travel to Pigeon Forge warning

For those planning on using I-81 in Virginia to get to Pigeon Forge, be 
aware of extreme enforcement of speed laws.  It seems radar was set up 
every 5 to 10 miles, as well as moving police vehicles everywhere.  This 
enforcement is expected to last all summer.   Also, be aware that radar 
detector use in illegal, as I found out the hard way.  Virginia uses a 
Spector II detector-detector, and my completely stealth under dash unit 
was detected from a moving trooper while I was in a roadside McDonalds, 
more than a block away.  He got off the interstate, cruised the parking 
lot, found me, and now I am $104 poorer.  While chatting up the trooper, 
he stated that in the 55mph zones on I-81, they ticket for 57.  
Absolutely no warnings.  Other than that, have a great trip to PG!



Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 12:54:29 -0400
From: "William Bowie" <>
Subject: Attention PJGradys

Attention - "PJ Grady"

I sent you guys an email from your web page but have not recieved a reply
yet. I would like to buy a Delorean from you (if you have one for sale) and
just wanted more information on how your sales are handled. Please e-mail me
in private at

Best Regards,


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 10:22:11 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <>
Subject: RE: catalytic converter question

what was the CO ??  sounds like you may be running lean.  does it misfire a

-----Original Message-----
From: rendycheng []
Subject: [DML] catalytic converter question

I just have a smog check done and my D failed.


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 14:15:18 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <>
Subject: RE: No Start problem


Did your car run before you took apart the fuel system and has it run since?
Perhaps a fuel line has been improperly reconnected? A likely cause is your
CO adjustment is way off. Follow Bill R's advice and it will at least get
you closer to the cause of your problem.

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: TalksToGod [] 
Subject: [DML] No Start problem

Again my car fails to start. I fixed the electrical problem but now it
seems no fuel is injecting into the engine. I have fuel inside the
distributor, and sometimes when I try to start it-it runs for a few
seconds and cuts out. I checked my lines over and over again but I
can't find anything unusual.


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 11:09:17 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <>
Subject: Re: catalytic converter question

Hello Rendy:

My newly acquired DeLorean went through a series of tune up procedures at
Auto House here in Oakland.  It wouldn't pass smog.  As a last resort the
proprietor, Tony, purchased a replacement catalytic converter made for the
DeLorean and it passed with a very wide margin in the oxygen score (hope I
have this right). This score was the hang up before the Cat was switched.

I was going to have a Cat custom made, but, Tony insisted that I stay with
stock.  I am glad I followed his decision.

Roland Smith
Oakland, California


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 19:17:23 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: catalytic converter question

Did something change in California? I moved to Nevada 8 years ago, but
for as long as I  can remember, Emissions Testing was just the typical
"two speed" test _at_dml_ both target RPM of 750 idle, and 2,500 reving.
These are performed with the car parked, and not underload, like on a
dyno. Which of course is going to cause higher emissions, since the 
motor is burrning more gasoline to run.

And aside from being on a dyno, there can be other factors involved
here too. How old was the gasoline? How warm was the car? When was the
last oil change?

If a Catalytic Convertor fails, you HCs will go up slightly (remember,
HCs represent unburned fuel in the exhaust), but you typicly won't
fail that portion of the test. You will however fail the remainder of
the tests when it comes to CO percentage, CO2 dilution, and other
gaseous content in the exhaust such as Oxygen, Hydrogen, and Nitrous
Oxide. These will fail, as there are not enough of them, BUT, your
Hydro-Carbons (HC) should typicly still pass. I've only heard of a
Catalytic Convertor failing once, and it happened to be a local owner
here in Vegas. His HC content was great, but the O2 & CO2 was almost

Now make no mistake, Catalytic Convertors can indeed fail. BUT, if
this was the case with your car, Instead of high HCs & NOx Emissions,
you'd have high HCs, and LOW NOx readings! Your high NOx measurements
tell me that your engine isn't burning all of the fuel that it is
being fed, and that the Cat is having to work overtime, in order to
burn them off itself. If nothing else, it proves that you Cat is in
good working order.

If I were to guess, you prolly have a clogged fuel injector. Here's
The K-Jetronic fuel injection system is entirely mechanical. Rather
than simply telling an electronic fuel injector to open more
frequently in order to deliver more fuel to a cylinder, our system is
based off of residual fuel pressure. increase the pressure delivered
to an injector, and it will open more, to deliver more fuel. And when
trying to perform fuel management simultaniously on multiple
injectors, with a shared feed point, it has to remain a very balanced
system. So if you have a clogged injector, less fuel is going to be
bleed off from what is offered to the 6 injectors, and the remaining 5
are going to have to spread that extra amount between themselves.
Which means their pressures are going to increase.

So, in a nutshell, one clogged fuel injector will result the car
running a rich condition! Wich will cause HIGH HC content in the

We don't measure NOx here in Nevada (not yet), but we do measure HC
ppm. With a fresh tank of gasoline, I can pull anywhere between 90-112
HC ppm on the idle, and have typicly hit between 12-38 HC ppm _at_dml_ 2,500
RPMs. Higher readings *can* signify the presence of old gas, and I've
seen this with both my own car, and others. BUT all of these readings
were taken without the car under load on a dyno.

My best advice to you right now? MANY smog check stations will offer
you either a "Pass or Don't Pay", or a "Free, Unlimited Retesting if
failure" type of promotion. Go to one of these, and have your car
tested OFF of a dyno before you go any further. And make sure that you
 burn out any old gas in the tank by taking her out on the highway,
and "blowing the cobwebs out." And perform an oil change. Do NOT ad in
any type of fuel treatments, other than Techron! If this doesn't work,
check you fuel injectors' spray patterns, and check into possibly
having them cleaned. DeLorean vendors should offer this service.
Otherwise, your local BOSH parts and service center should be able to
as well, but possibly for a higher fee.

OBD-II= OnBoard Diagnostics (system) generation II. It's a system that
controls everything from ABS, to engine management, and emissions
control for a car. It's more than just EFI, it's also stores info
about failed O2 sensors, etc. There is no need to replace any ECUs on 
your car. They work just fine, as your catalytic convertor does, I'm

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 13:21:53 -0700
From: "Lauren" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Manifest 10

Thanks, Dave.  Makes perfect sense.................LP

> This is a wild educated guess but I think it is refering to the boat
> manifest.


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 19:35:08 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <>
Subject: Funniest Things Heard

You know, when I take my D out, I hear funny things all the time. For 
example, at gas stations, I hear.."Can you go back in time in that?", 
or I've even had people ask me, is that a Ferrari? or a Pantera? I 
just laugh. Or even better when you have people try to tell you 
the "True story of John Delorean" about how he was caught with Cocane 
in the Deloreans doors or tires or something about his massive drug 
operation. Hahahaha. I know im not the only person hearing this crap, 
it's amazing what people say when you drive this car, and it brings 
this level of attention, which is why I love my car. Anyways, the 
reason why i'm posting is because I wanted to hear from all of you 
guys, the funniest, wierdest, strangest, comments, storys you've 
heard while you were with your D.

Thanks guys,



Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 20:51:30 -0000
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <>
Subject: New to Delorean

Hey guys!  I'm looking into buying a Delorean and was wondering if 
any year is better than the other as far as maint.?  Also once a car 
is painted can it be taken down to the classic brushed steel look?  
If anybody can help a noobie out, I would appreciate it.  Thanks


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 16:29:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <>
Subject: Unused Wires in Door Harness?

Anybody know off the top of their heads if there are
any wires in the door harness that weren't used in
production.  (I thought I heard somewhere that there
were)  I'm installing mirrors with the turn signals on
them and would like to use existing wires if possible
rather than pulling new ones.



VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 16:06:07 -0500
From: "Alex Wolf" <>
Subject: Big Oops

Well, I took the car to Landa Park today for a BBQ, and my friend who
was following me called my cell and told me it was smoking. I pulled
over, and there was oil ALL over the engine compartment. It also made it
to the outside of the bumper and the plastic around the license plate
frame. The smoke was from oil burning up on the exhaust. Problem is, I
don't have $6000 for a new engine, and I have a feeling that's what it's
going to need. I have not located the exact spot of where the oil is
coming from, so I don't know what to do. According to DCMH and PJ Grady,
the engine was not original Delorean anyways, but no one can seem to
pinpoint what exactly it is. I guess this is not so much a cry for help,
but just sharing my miserable day.

Alex Wolf


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 18:26:24 -0500
From: "Alex Wolf" <>
Subject: Parting with my D

I just cant afford to get it fixed right now, so I decided to part with
it until I can afford to get another one.
Ebay item num  2474476403

It's a good running car, needs some interior TLC, and the oil leak
fixed. I hope it goes to a good home :(

Alex Wolf


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 00:12:51 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <>
Subject: Re: Dyno Results - Grand National Delorean

How much Horse Power? How much Torque?  These are two
questions that come up often when people as discussing all
configurations of engine setups in the Delorean, from stock,
to single turbo, to twin turbo, to all varieties of engine swaps.

Most of us have seen the engine dyno numbers on the DMCH
upgraded engine but for some people, like myself, the proof is
in the RWHP (Rear Wheel Horse Power) when the enigine is
tested, fully installed in a car, putting the power to the ground.

Today was that day for the Grand National powered Delorean
at the Buick/GN club Spring Dyno Technical Session, April 17.
A few club members saw my car at the World of Wheels show
a few months ago and they asked me to join their club.

To see more details of my setup, 3.8L Turbo with stock 5-speed
Delorean transmission, check
under the High HP Delorean link.  I did this Dyno test with stock
Delorean wheels and tires sizes.

Although I am not "done" tweeking the Grand National Delorean,
including replacement of a malfunctioning intermittent coil pack,
I REALLY wanted to know what kind of potential the engine had,
since no significant changes have been made in about a year.

The Results:

Really nice sunny, spring day, 75 degrees and 75% humidity.
DynoJet Dyno and DynoJet Performance Evaluation Program.
My Delorean tested in 4th gear, from 2500 RPM to 5000 RPM.
Coil pack "cut out" consistently at 4100 RPM (need to fix that)

Peak power delivery observed between 3200 - 4700 RPM at a
near flat, very slight curve, trailing off quickly after 4750 RPM

Rounded Up Performance Numbers  165 RWHP,  255 RWT

Actual Max Rear Wheel Horse Power   164.79 _at_dml_ 4300 RPM
Actual Max Rear Wheel Torque  254.94 _at_dml_ 4600 RPM

For some direct comparisions, check out a variety of engines
tested on the Dyno "at the rear wheels" at the link below:

I'm looking forward to see how I do after I replace the coil pack
and maybe upgrade to a programmed chip.  Should be good.

Rich W.


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 01:10:06 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: Re: No Start problem

The electrical problem was a dead short. Once I found the short some
things started to work but still a few things did not. So I decided to
change the fuses and sure enough fuse number 1 wasn't blown but was
not operating for some reason. I changed them and then everything
worked like a champ. Your suggestions helped me out greatly, and once
again after months of repairs my car is alive again. Also I seemed to
have forgotten to hook up the vacuum line to the brake booster causing
a massive vac leak. Once I hooked up the line and tried what you said
in your post, it started right up and idled pretty good. I ran it for
a long time bleeding the coolant of air and also making sure the
cooling fans kicked on as expected. Everything worked out great-thanks
so much for the help.

Now for my next question: I took it for a drive up the road, and when
I was inclined on the hill and accelerating, it would kind of buck and
kick-my thoughts were that it had insufficient gas and maybe the lines
were taking air. I filled a few more gallons and it didn't seem to
kick as severly but still did slightly on another test run. Is this
because of a lack of fuel? I would go to the gas station and just fill
it right up but I need to align the front wheels, get the license
plates on and etc. I checked my lines in the fuel tank, I am still
unfortunitly using the old 81 pump, lines, and all, but everything
seemed to be where it should and no hoses were collapsed or anything.
Any thoughts? Thanks again for your past and future responses. Dan
Benedek, #5003, alive once again


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 01:18:09 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: Re: catalytic converter question

Are you sure your catalytic is still in good condition? If its been on
the car since the beginning, then you may want to take it off and make
sure its still packed with the stones and mesh etc. I took mine off to
hollow it out since I am in NY and don't require testing- and to my
surprise it was already hollow. The mesh that holds all the stones
blew out from old age and the heat, causing all the little stones to
get lodged in my muffler, I spent a good amount of time shaking them
out, still not getting them all so I had to buy a new muffler. There
was only a little piece of the mesh left in the catalytic. Anyway, if
it has never been replaced, check it out, make sure everythings where
its supposed to be. Just a thought from my experiences-Dan Benedek


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 01:21:28 -0000
From: "dplakosh2" <>
Subject: May Tech Session - Western PA - Pittsburgh RSVP


Previous Tech Sessions in this area were held by my friend Dom Diaz 
and his wife Melissa. This year my wife and I have decided to take a 
turn and will be hosting a Tech Session in Pittsburgh on May 8, 2004 
starting at 9:00 AM until dusk. This is an excellent to opportunity 
to socialize with other D owners and to get your car ready for this 
summer or for Pigeon Forge.

We have already talked with Dave Stragand and Dom Diaz, and they have 
said they will be able to make it.  We're easy to find just off the 
route 60 Hopewell exit about 7 min. from the Pittsburgh Airport.  We 
have a 2 stall garage, loads of tools, great techies (Hi, Dave), a 
large driveway, and  use of the neighbors driveway as well.  We hope 
to see all the great people we've met at the last tech sessions and 
hopefully a few new faces too! If your car is not  ready to drive 
then just come and visit, we'd love to see you! We even have some 
room for anyone that wants to travel a bit and might want to spend 
the night.

We'll start off at 9a.m. (Coffee and pastries to open your eyes :-).  
Snacks along with beverages (including beer) during the day.  Around 
noon we'll have a cookout for lunch and dinner cookout around 5pm, 
lets see.... food, friends, tools, have I forgotten  anything?  Oh 
yeah, the hot tub will be open if you need to relax  after your tech 
session.  Please e-mail me off-list to confirm your attendance, and 
perhaps any work you'd like some help with, and let  me know if you 
need directions. Significant others are welcome, and encouraged.. 
Hope to see you there!

If we need to make a rain date I will do so the week the Tech Session.

Best regards,

Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872)


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 20:29:15 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <>
Subject: Book search

I am trying to locate a book, "DeLorean Parts Identification Manual" by Staff.

Can anyone help me find it?

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
VIN 6667


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 02:21:11 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <>
Subject: RPM to MPH

I have seen tables showing the RPM to MPH conversions for the
DeLorean-my DeLorean's engine has a good amount of modifications, so
would the conversions still work for me? I am figuring that it wont
since I can only use 4th to go 55, putting it in 5th with my
modifications put me well over 65...and that was before more
modifications took place so who knows about now. Angle drive is shot
so until I can repair it I am stuck with no speedo :/     -Dan Bek #5003


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 05:55:03 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <>
Subject: Sonic Delorean Promo?

A friend of mine just brought me a like a take out menu thing for 
sonic. Its for the 2870 N Hayden Road location in Scottsdale AZ. 
Inside this new sonic they have pictures of some various classic 
cars, including an 82 Delorean! Its also in their menu! The delorean 
is among others like a 59 Cadillac, 65 Mustang, 73 Trans Am, 99 
Prowler and an 03 Corvette. According to my friend they got a huge 
ass poster of a delorean in the sonic. So for those who live in az, 
drive your D's over there =). I might wanna steal that poster :)

Anyways, I didnt know if this was just location specific or this is a 
new menu for all sonics. Anyways lemme know,



Message: 22
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 06:02:33 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive - A new Angle

Jewelers is going to be too small. You need the longest blade possible
to get the leverage to start it. Stanley's 1/8" is 4".

Re: my angle drive repair -- remember, this was done last spring, when
Houston's angle drives were not yet available. I had no choice but to
repair the factory unit. Were it to happen today, I would simply by a
new replacement.

The outer coils of my spindle cable are wound against the direction of
primary wheel rotation (I still wonder if mine at least was intended
for RHD use on the passenger wheel). This had the unfortunate
consequence of unwinding on I-95. Several inches from the end were
mangled like spaghetti, and the visible portion of the wheel disc was
rounded out (I later discovered that deep inside its pocket was still

My first repair was to cut off the damaged portion of the spindle
cable, attach a piece of same diameter threaded rod in its place, then
interface to the wheel disc by cutting off the original pocket and
tapping threads (added a nut/jamb nut for good measure). This worked
well for a short time, but the remaining spindle cable continued to
unwind on the other side of my splice.

My second repair was the same as the first, except I ran solder all
the way down the remaining factory cable, including inside the angle
drive bushing, to prevent any more unwinding. I now had such a long
piece of threaded rod in lieu of spindle cable (and the cable I did
have had no flex because of the solder) installation was a real bear.
I got in in, but then began to worry that the whole arrangement was
too stiff. I never drove on the second repair.

My third repair was to separate the threaded rod and the spindle
cable. A short piece of 1/8" key stock was attached to the now very
short spindle cable. A piece of 1/8" hollow square channel was
attached to the threaded rod (for the key stock to mate into). There's
provision for about 1/4" movement side to side between the rod and the
cable. My angle drive now is inserted in two pieces: the original gear
assembly goes on the inside as usual, then the rod with wheel disc
already attached goes on from the outside. The keystock/hollow channel
mate inside the spindle effortlessly. 

I've driven about 6,000 miles on this repair, at speeds up to 80 MPH.
Don't anticipate any problems, but as I said: if they pop up I'll
simply buy one of the replacements now available. I remove it from
time to time to check its health -- next time it's out of the car I'll
take some pics and upload them to #5939's photo album.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "joeyoseppi" <joeyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I tried exactly that method for about an hour, even using fine 
> jewelers screwdrivers. I'm very good usually with small objects and 
> fine movements. But that damn ring wasn't budging at all. Wish mine 
> would've worked this way, even though it sounds easy.


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 05:53:26 -0000
From: "dcsj4465" <>
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle


I have a RED top Optima in my car also. However, it is the second 
one! I had to get it warranty replaced at 16 months in service 
of a dead cell. Just my luck, the guy at the counter said I was only 
the second person that they had ever had to do a warranty replacement 
an optima before. 
 I happened to be in a local Batteries Plus store A few weeks ago. 
Just out of couriosity I asked the store owner, what the difference 
was between the regular Optima Red top and the Yellow top Deep cycle.
Because I was thinking of maybe doing the same thing. He explained to 
me what the difference was inturnally between the two. He explained 
the differences of constuction and how a Starting (RED) top battery 
works as opposed to the Deep Cycle(Yellow) top battery relative to 
current flow thru them. HE was the one who recommended NOT to use it 
as a starting battery. I'm no Battery expert. But I have to consider 
him to be the knowledgable source on the matter. Btw. when you 
purchased your battery did you install it or a serivce shop? You 
might want to check the warranty to see if its covered in your 
application of use.

BTW:He never said you couldn't use one. He just recomended not using 
it and explained why. I'm just passing the info along.

Dennis 5180


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 12:04:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: catalytic converter question

Based on those results I'd say you need a major tune -up. The spark 
is probably not strong enough, the timing is probably off and the O2 
is probably out of adjustment. I don't know where you are in 
California, but DeLorean Motor Center or DeLorean One can help you.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, "rendycheng" <rendycheng_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I just have a smog check done and my D failed.  I am located in 


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 11:24:00 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <>
Subject: Re: Transmission oil

Where does the new gear oil go for the manuel transmission. I found 
the plug to drain it but haven't seen anywhere to fill it back up 

--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> The right oil for the automatic trans is Dexron-Mercon Type III. DO
> NOT OVERFILL! The right oil for the final drive is 85w-90 gear oil 
> the separate resovoir for the final drive. Refer to the Workshop
> Manual for drain, refill, and checking procedures.


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