From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1980
Date: Friday, April 23, 2004 10:23 PM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: door to roof seal replacement?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Fuel pump lines
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

4. Re:BTTF Delorean on E-bay
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie_at_dml_sc.rr.com>

5. Re: door to roof seal replacement?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Re: delorean for sale
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>

8. RE: Tail light led number
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Air Conditioner Stuff
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

11. Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>

12. Automatic
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Automatic
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

15. Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue (Headlight Master Switch)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: door to roof seal replacement?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Automatic
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

19. DeLorean in Alexandria, VA
From: "johnzd81" <johnzd81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Fuel pump lines
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: Automatic
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 01:17:40 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: door to roof seal replacement?

You should probably be more afraid of drilling right through the top 
of the door as you drill out the old pop-rivets. I have used a piece 
of coolant hose to cover the torsion bar and put a wide blade putty 
knife down behind the pop-rivets as I drill them out. Now that I 
have a Dremel I believe I would use it to grind off the heads of the 
rivets next time. I suspect the old pop rivet heads will still be a 
pain to retrieve and I'll have to wait a few months while some roll 
around in the top part of the door before they roll down into the 
door where I can finally get them.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> Hello group - 
> 
> What would be the best method of replacing the door to roof flat 
> rubber seals? I presume drilling out the pop rivets, removing and 
> replacing the rubber strip and re-riveting. However, I'm terrified 
of 
> drilling that close to the torsion bar. How do most of you replace 
> these seals? 
> 
> -sean
> #3231 - asleep since 1986




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 01:32:55 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Fuel pump lines

I'm wondering what would happen if you were to switch the lines from
the fuel pump going to the metal lines running to the accumulator.
Would the car run at all? I often wondered this when I was putting my
car back together the times I needed to take the frame off and do
work. I did note how they are hooked up in order not to make this
mistake. But what would result? Thanks -Dan Benedek #5003




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 02:03:04 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yesterday, my headlight switch slagged itself. I was given a rude 
> awakening when I found out that it's one of the few items that are 
> unavailable from vendors. The switch is a poor design. Here's what 
> happened:
> 

This made me think of something - Has anyone ever thought of or begun 
compiling a list of replacement parts that are *NOT* available for 
the D? First I read about torsion bars being practically unavailable, 
now headlight switches. It might be beneficial to maintain some kind 
of list so that we may try to take extra special care of those 
components in our cars that are still working. Not to mention drawing 
attention to those parts that perhaps alternatives could be found or 
engineered.

-Sean W.
Santa Clara CA
#3231 - now back on the road




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:34:20 -0400
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie_at_dml_sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re:BTTF Delorean on E-bay

http://www.bttf.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=10&t=000700

I hang out at BTTF.com and here is a link where the original owner/creator
of the car has some comments.  Apparently the car does have some issues.



Message: 20
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 10:25:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: BTTF DeLorean on eBay

Does anyone know who built this car?

eBay item: 2475019485

It's nice to see a non-fusion BTTF DeLorean.

-Christian








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 03:11:59 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: door to roof seal replacement?

Sean - The best method for protecting the torsion bar is to slip a 
length of stiff vacumm hose or something similar over the drill bit, 
leaving only the tip of the bit exposed.  This accomplishes two 
things ... (1) It protects the torsion bar from being damaged by the 
drill bit, and (2) It creates a "drill stop" so that you don't 
accidentally dimple the outer skin panel when the drill bit suddenly 
penetrates the pop rivet.  I have seen a couple of cars that have 
raised "dimples" from just that.  You are very wise to be thinking 
ahead about stuff like this.  Some people say that experience is the 
best teacher.  That is incorrect.  Learning from somebody else's 
experiences is actually much better.  I hope that your car awakens 
soon.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> What would be the best method of replacing the door to roof flat 
> rubber seals? I presume drilling out the pop rivets, removing and 
> replacing the rubber strip and re-riveting. However, I'm terrified 
of drilling that close to the torsion bar. How do most of you 
replace these seals? 
> 
> -sean
> #3231 - asleep since 1986




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 18:14:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: delorean for sale

Cool, 6049 is in my garage..  

What makes 6048 "Legendary"?

--- FREDRAVAS_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> vin 6048 is now for sale. located in oxnard
> ,california. if anybody knows 
> anyone who love to own one of the legendary car
> please email me privately for 
> details.
> im ready to part with this one, i've had her since
> 1986.
<SNIP>



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 02:41:28 -0000
From: "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay

I built this car last year. The whole sordid story behind its sale 
and eventual return to market can be found in various other internet 
chat-rooms so I will not bother everyone here with the tale...

You can find out a little more about the cars creation here...

http://members.cox.net/bk2dftr/home

The servers for cox.net seem to be bogged down at the moment, but 
that link is working.

Since building the car, I have started a new BTTF DMC related site 
here:

www.bttfparts.com.board

Eventually this should tell you pretty much anything and everything 
you want to know about the Delorean Time machine... Things will 
really get kicking when I start my next conversion here in a few 
months... That will make the first car look like a real lemon...

Gary Weaver II
Owner/Administrator www.bttfparts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> Does anyone know who built this car?
> 
> eBay item: 2475019485
> 
> It's nice to see a non-fusion BTTF DeLorean.
> 
> -Christian




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:35:12 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Tail light led number

You would use a regular 1156 bulb, however I have been testing them and they 
just dont cut the mustard. They are not pright enough, they have a 
concentrated beam in the center and the inside of the lens in designed to 
reflect from the rear.
The only light that looks OK is the running tail light, but not the brake 
light.
If you insist on having them contact me privately and I can sell you a set,
otherwise I would use the regular 1156 bulbs.
I also have the LED dor light too if you need them.
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: "Dustin Dewey" <dmc5000_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Tail light led number
>Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 13:18:25 +0000
>
>Hi everyone.
>Hey if I remember, a few weeks ago someone was on here talking about led
>lights for the doors. well I was wondering what the correct number is for 
>the led that fits the tail lights.
>Do they even make them yet?
>Just wondering!!! Thanks
>
>Dustin
>#006746



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 04:19:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Air Conditioner Stuff

After my recent adventure in DeLorean restoration, I ended up with a 
couple of extra used OEM evaporators. Anyone interested please 
contact me off list. $225 each. More parts to come as I sort thru 
this stuff and decide what I probably won't ever need. Of course I'll 
be wrong as soon as I ship it. 

Dave S
swingle(AT)dmcnews.com




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 03:19:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue

There isn't anything wrong with the headlight switch per se. The
problem lies with the circuit it's intergrated into. You have 10
incandescent lights that are recieve a power feed thru the switch, and
no one fuse on this central source. The higher gague wire that has
been used doesn't help any, either. To realy make the circuit safe,
you'd need to splice in a relay, with a fused, independant powersource
for the clearance lights.

Aside from corrosion on the switch, you really need to check/replace
the light bulbs themselves, and their housings. My front, driver's
side clearance light had a crack, and the rubbber gasket behind it had
split. So for all the years that my car spent parked next to someone's
sprinklers, water was able to leak in, and collect in the lense. And
since the wiring harness has a sleeve on it to keep road spray away
from the lights, the water that collected inside had no where to
drain. Over the years of moisture, not only had rust formed, but it
managed to bridge the positive, and ground connections inside, and
outside of the socket. The bulb was so badly fused into place, that I
couldn't remove it, and ended up grafting in a replacement socket from
P.J. Grady. Had the circuit have been properly designed with at least
a fuse in place for the main feed, my headlight switch would not have
melted down.

I'm in the same boat, where I've no headlight switch either. I
currently use a jumper wire to activate my lights (ghetto, I know).
Hopefully one will turn up, but I'm not too worried. If one cannot be
located, or the vendors fail recreate one, a little creativity will
solve things. I'll just attach my old buttton onto the end of an old
windsheild wiper knob, and shove a couple of LEDs behind the faceplate
to illuminate it. So instead of pushing, I'll just turn the knob to
turn on the lights. And if I get a 3 speed switch, I'd also be able to
nicely intergrate a hidden switch for some foglights as well.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yesterday, my headlight switch slagged itself. I was given a rude 
> awakening when I found out that it's one of the few items that are 
> unavailable from vendors. The switch is a poor design. Here's what 
> happened:
<SNIP>




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 12:52:22 -0000
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> Does anyone know who built this car?
> 
> eBay item: 2475019485
> 
> It's nice to see a non-fusion BTTF DeLorean.
> 
> -Christian

Gary Weaver II (www.BTTFParts.com) built it last year.

-- Stephen Clark, BTTF.com




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 06:25:54 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Automatic

Well I was driving my DMC home from an oil change, and well all of a 
suddent he car began to switch gears, its an 81 automatic. Anyway I 
called AAA and back to the garage it went. Well I found out that a 
pully froze up and my mechanic also informed me that my Transmission 
was slipping. Now I have records from 1997 showing that the trans 
has been rebulit. I understand that if jumping the car to many times 
it can destroy the computer, and since March of 2003 it has been 
jumped at least five times for one reason or another. Well my fisrt 
question is this, I'm not to keen on mechanical terms so when the 
trans slips I know it to be with changing gears, but what could 
cause this and how bad is it $$$ wise?

Thanks,
Darryl
5898




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 15:20:43 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Automatic

Why would jumping the car destroy that "computer" ?

Elvis


> Well I was driving my DMC home from an oil change, and well all of a 
> suddent he car began to switch gears, its an 81 automatic. Anyway I 
> called AAA and back to the garage it went. Well I found out that a 
> pully froze up and my mechanic also informed me that my Transmission 
> was slipping. Now I have records from 1997 showing that the trans 
> has been rebulit. I understand that if jumping the car to many times 
> it can destroy the computer, and since March of 2003 it has been 
> jumped at least five times for one reason or another. Well my fisrt 
> question is this, I'm not to keen on mechanical terms so when the 
> trans slips I know it to be with changing gears, but what could 
> cause this and how bad is it $$$ wise?
> 
> Thanks,

-- 
"Sie haben neue Mails!" - Die GMX Toolbar informiert Sie beim Surfen!
Jetzt aktivieren unter http://www.gmx.net/info




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 09:48:44 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

Hi All,
 
Yes, believe it or not, the resurrection of Vixen DOES continue.  For those
of you who don't know me, I'm the stubborn fool who bought a completely
disassembled DeLorean back in 1999 and has been working (sporadically) on
bringing it back to life.  The whole ongoing saga is chronicled on my web
site,  <http://www.projectvixen.com/> http://www.ProjectVixen.com .
 
It's been about two years since my last update.  In fact, I have not touched
the car since the day after we got back from the Memphis show in 2002.  So,
with Pigeon Forge rapidly approaching, it's time to do the hard shift from
neutral to fifth to get the car done in time.  There's less than 60 days
until the show, and I guess it would be nice to actually -drive- the car a
bit before we leave, so that leaves roughly 30 days to get some projects
moving, which as you can guess, is not a whole lot of time.
 
My to-do list, while substantial, is a heck of a lot less than it once was:
 
ELECTRICAL
Install DELCO alternator
Put in dummy switches
 
EXTERIOR
Clean engine compartment 
Glue down louver bump strips
Install hood trim
Install rear sway bar
Install Walt TABS
Refinish exhaust tips
Repaint all external black trim
Repair louver
Replace mufflers (I don't like the sound of the current ones)
Sandblast & brush finish
Touch-up engine cover
Touch-up trunk
 
INTERIOR
A-Pillar touch up
Clean trunk lid underside
Get new key cut
Install decals
Install door seals
Install right-side skirt/ground-effects
Mount rear view mirror 
Recover headliners
Refinish steering wheel
Remount rear speakers
Replace door sills
Turbo gauge and vents
Window switches stencil
 
MAINTENANCE
Drain old fuel
Flush and fill fluids
Seal access panels in trunk
 
I guess I have my work cut out for me, eh?  As they say, "See you in Pigeon
Forge!"
 
-Dave
 
Dave Stragand
VIN #05027
 <http://www.projectvixen.com/> http://www.projectvixen.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 14:19:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue (Headlight Master Switch)

The problem is even worse than full side/tail light amperage: Fuses
#14 and #15 come AFTER the switch. If something goes wrong with it
(note the ground for the internal illumination bulb...), you are
totally unprotected. Compare to the location of Fuse #6 in the hazard
light circuit. Major DMC engineering error.

I think the problem is compounded by heat from the internal
illumination bulb. The switch is made from cheap plastic to begin
with. Why barbeque it further?

I am using a hazard switch to replace my melted -- as in fire and
smoke -- headlight switch. The pushbuttons are interchangeable so the
picture remains correct. Is single action of course, but how many
people drive around with just the parking lights on anyway? Is not
plug and play either, but I was re-wiring my external light circuit at
the same time (moved side/tail lights to their own relay) so I could
use whichever spades on the back I wanted.

Total amperage through my new switch is 30 miliamps BTW.

I also removed internal illumination bulbs from both switches to
eliminate the heat problem. A/C panel illumination (ANOTHER issue in
itself!) creates rings of light around the pushbuttons so you can see
them no problem. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> There isn't anything wrong with the headlight switch per se. The
> problem lies with the circuit it's intergrated into. You have 10
> incandescent lights that are recieve a power feed thru the switch, and
> no one fuse on this central source. The higher gague wire that has
> been used doesn't help any, either. To realy make the circuit safe,
> you'd need to splice in a relay, with a fused, independant powersource
> for the clearance lights.
> 
> Aside from corrosion on the switch, you really need to check/replace
> the light bulbs themselves, and their housings. My front, driver's
> side clearance light had a crack, and the rubbber gasket behind it had
> split. So for all the years that my car spent parked next to someone's
> sprinklers, water was able to leak in, and collect in the lense. And
> since the wiring harness has a sleeve on it to keep road spray away
> from the lights, the water that collected inside had no where to
> drain. Over the years of moisture, not only had rust formed, but it
> managed to bridge the positive, and ground connections inside, and
> outside of the socket. The bulb was so badly fused into place, that I
> couldn't remove it, and ended up grafting in a replacement socket from
> P.J. Grady. Had the circuit have been properly designed with at least
> a fuse in place for the main feed, my headlight switch would not have
> melted down.
> 
> I'm in the same boat, where I've no headlight switch either. I
> currently use a jumper wire to activate my lights (ghetto, I know).
> Hopefully one will turn up, but I'm not too worried. If one cannot be
> located, or the vendors fail recreate one, a little creativity will
> solve things. I'll just attach my old buttton onto the end of an old
> windsheild wiper knob, and shove a couple of LEDs behind the faceplate
> to illuminate it. So instead of pushing, I'll just turn the knob to
> turn on the lights. And if I get a 3 speed switch, I'd also be able to
> nicely intergrate a hidden switch for some foglights as well.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Yesterday, my headlight switch slagged itself. I was given a rude 
> > awakening when I found out that it's one of the few items that are 
> > unavailable from vendors. The switch is a poor design. Here's what 
> > happened:
> <SNIP>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 14:08:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: door to roof seal replacement?

My suggestion to protect the torsion bar is to get a piece of PVC pipe
(I think 1/2 " was the size) cut to length and slit lengthwise. Now
place over the torsion bar and that should protect it in case you
slip. When drilling the rivets go slow and easy, the real danger is
when you "break-through", that's when you can lose control. Instead of
vacuum hose on the drill bit I suggest a piece of metal tubing cut to
the right length and slipped onto the drill.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Sean - The best method for protecting the torsion bar is to slip a 
> length of stiff vacumm hose or something similar over the drill bit, 
> leaving only the tip of the bit exposed.  This accomplishes two 
> things ... (1) It protects the torsion bar from being damaged by the 
> drill bit, and (2) It creates a "drill stop" so that you don't 
> accidentally dimple the outer skin panel when the drill bit suddenly 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 14:21:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic

If the transmission is shifting erratically that usually means the
shift computer is "sick". If you keep driving on it, the hard erratic
shifting will damage the internal mechanical parts of the
transmission. You have a couple of choices. You can replace the shift
computer. It is somewhere around $350 more or less. You can attempt to
repair it. This requires some familularity with a soldering iron. Or
you can send it to someone for repair. If the trans is slipping that
is a much more serious problem and can generally only be fixed by
removing and rebuilding the transmission. Watch the tach and speedo.
If the engine RPM's go up while the speed of the car does not than the
trans IS slipping. Pull the dipstick. If it looks and smells burnt
then you probably have already damaged the internals of the trans. If
however it is still red and smells OK you may luck out with just a
shift computer. When the transission "slips" it is not changing gears,
the clutch packs slip and that is a BAD thing. They are supposed to be
engaged or disengaged, not slip.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Well I was driving my DMC home from an oil change, and well all of a 
> suddent he car began to switch gears, its an 81 automatic. Anyway I 
> called AAA and back to the garage it went. Well I found out that a 
> pully froze up and my mechanic also informed me that my Transmission 
> was slipping. Now I have records from 1997 showing that the trans 
> has been rebulit. I understand that if jumping the car to many times 
> it can destroy the computer, and since March of 2003 it has been 
> jumped at least five times for one reason or another. Well my fisrt 
> question is this, I'm not to keen on mechanical terms so when the 
> trans slips I know it to be with changing gears, but what could 
> cause this and how bad is it $$$ wise?
> 
> Thanks,
> Darryl
> 5898




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 15:10:35 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF DeLorean on eBay

I think you did a fine job on this car, Gary.  The only thing that 
bothers me is that it is listed as an automatic but the photos show a 
five-speed.  Kinda makes me think the people who listed this are not 
paying attention.

Johnny
5518

 wrote:
> I built this car last year. The whole sordid story behind its sale 
> and eventual return to market can be found in various other 
internet 
> chat-rooms so I will not bother everyone here with the tale...
> 
> You can find out a little more about the cars creation here...
> 
> http://members.cox.net/bk2dftr/home
> 
> The servers for cox.net seem to be bogged down at the moment, but 
> that link is working.
> 
> Since building the car, I have started a new BTTF DMC related site 
> here:
> 
> www.bttfparts.com.board
> 
> Eventually this should tell you pretty much anything and everything 
> you want to know about the Delorean Time machine... Things will 
> really get kicking when I start my next conversion here in a few 
> months... That will make the first car look like a real lemon...
> 
> Gary Weaver II
> Owner/Administrator www.bttfparts.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> 
> wrote:
> > Does anyone know who built this car?
> > 
> > eBay item: 2475019485
> > 
> > It's nice to see a non-fusion BTTF DeLorean.
> > 
> > -Christian




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 16:37:46 -0000
From: "johnzd81" <johnzd81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean in Alexandria, VA

Hello,
    I have a ticket to fly down to Alexandria, VA to take a look at 
this DeLorean 
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/5/4/69088954.htm

Is there anyone in the area who would be willing to give it a once 
over, perhaps a test drive for me?  My ticket is non-refundable, but 
it would help me greatly if I had some information before getting 
there.  I spoke to the owner, and from my questions and his answers, 
the car sounds like a good solid driver, and a driver is what I 
want.  I don't have unlimited funds for repairs, but am capable of 
doing most of the work required. 

If anyone would be willing to check this out for me, I would 
appreciate it greatly!

Thanks in advance,
John 




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 18:33:51 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump lines

I don't believe anything would happen because the primary pressure 
regulator in the metering head will be jammed shut.

BUT, the return line on the accumulator is only held on with hose clips 
- it's not meant to be pressurised.

Martin

TalksToGod wrote:

>I'm wondering what would happen if you were to switch the lines from
>the fuel pump going to the metal lines running to the accumulator.
>Would the car run at all? I often wondered this when I was putting my
>car back together the times I needed to take the frame off and do
>work. I did note how they are hooked up in order not to make this
>mistake. But what would result? Thanks -Dan Benedek #5003
>
>  
>





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 12:46:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic

Before your mechanic tears the transmission apart,
test the electronic shift control.  They are a common
failure on the Automatic cars.

As far as cost goes, if you handy with a soldering
iron you can probably fix it yourself.  Otherwise,
some of the vendors have a rebuild service where they
also improve the design a bit to prevent future
problems.

--- mydmc5898 <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Well I was driving my DMC home from an oil change,
> and well all of a 
> suddent he car began to switch gears, its an 81
> automatic. Anyway I 
> called AAA and back to the garage it went. Well I
> found out that a 
> pully froze up and my mechanic also informed me that
> my Transmission 
> was slipping. Now I have records from 1997 showing
> that the trans 
> has been rebulit. I understand that if jumping the
> car to many times 
> it can destroy the computer, and since March of 2003
> it has been 
> jumped at least five times for one reason or
> another. Well my fisrt 
> question is this, I'm not to keen on mechanical
> terms so when the 
> trans slips I know it to be with changing gears, but
> what could 
> cause this and how bad is it $$$ wise?
> 
> Thanks,
> Darryl
> 5898



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